Learn to Sew a Hooded Cloak for Beginners: FREE Sewing Pattern | Mary Rose | Skillshare

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Learn to Sew a Hooded Cloak for Beginners: FREE Sewing Pattern

teacher avatar Mary Rose, Illustrator & Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

11 Lessons (46m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:36
    • 2. Class Project

      2:18
    • 3. How to Download and Print the Pattern

      3:47
    • 4. Supplies Overview

      3:01
    • 5. Cutting the Pattern Pieces

      2:58
    • 6. Assembling the Main Body

      6:31
    • 7. Constructing the Hood

      7:07
    • 8. Attaching the Hood

      4:20
    • 9. Hemming

      7:56
    • 10. Adding the Button Closure

      5:26
    • 11. Final Thoughts

      1:03
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About This Class

Let’s start a new adventure by making a cloak!

In this class, I’ll cover the basics of sewing a hooded cloak/cape. I’ll show my full process of making the cloak using the FREE pattern provided. All sewing is done with a machine :)

In this class you’ll learn:

  • Downloading and printing digital patterns
  • How to cut and prepare pattern pieces
  • Sewing a cloak step by step
  • How to make a button closure



Tools used in this tutorial include:

  • Janome DC5100 Computerized Sewing Machine
    (You can use any basic machine)
  • 4 yard of fabric (medium to heavyweight, non-stretch)
  • Scissors/rotary cutter
  • Chalk/pencil
  • Seam ripper
  • Pins/clips
  • Thread
  • Iron 
  • Closure
  • Free sewing pattern

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Mary Rose

Illustrator & Designer

Teacher

Hi, I’m Mary Rose! I’m a freelance illustrator, teacher, sewist, and all-around crafty person based in Portland, OR.

Since graduating with my degree in Graphic Design in 2018 I’ve worked as an in-house designer, freelance illustrator, and remote illustration instructor.

Teaching turned into an unexpected passion, utilizing my life-long love of learning and problem-solving.

My goal is to teach direct and flexible techniques, you can apply to your own work. I hope my classes can inspire you in your creative journey.

When I'm not creating something, you can find me deep in a book (nonfiction or fantasy) with a mug of coffee and my cats on my lap. ♥

See full profile

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: For cosplay or fashion hoax or a flashy and flexible piece of clothing. They can take you on an adventure or keep you warm on a winter evening. They also happen to be one of the easiest things to make. Welcome to my sewing room. My name is Mary. I'm a freelance designer and illustrator, cause player and long time. So as I started off just wanting to level up my cost play game, I hated having to rely on others to create what I could imagine. Simple things like cloaks intimidated me early in my sewing journey because a lot of the time they didn't have concrete instructions are patterns that I can learn from. I would often look for more difficult projects that had more concrete instructions which would then create a lot of frustration and take me longer they get anywhere because I needed those instructions. So that's why I created this class. I wanted a very clear and concise project to get people started on the road of sewing. You don't need a great sewing ability for this class. You just need a machine. And knowing the very basics on how to use it for your project. I simply want you to create the cape that I show you in this class. All I ask is you take a picture and post your project in the project gallery so we can all enjoy it. 2. Class Project: Welcome back. Let's talk about the project for this class. The project for this class is just simply the hooded cloak that I'm going to teach you step-by-step on how to make using the free pattern that is provided. I wanted this class to feel very possible. No large amount of supplies or knowledge are needed. Just the basic few essentials and the knowledge of threading and sewing a straight stitch on your machine. In this class, you will learn how to print and put together a digital pattern. What supplies and materials you need for this project and how to source them. How to sew and put together a cloak, and how to hem and put all the finishing touches onto this project. All these principles you can take with you to your next project, hopefully more confident than before. I have had a lot of issues sourcing materials for projects in the past. So I wanted this project be very simple in material. So the supplies list is short and the actual material is just fabric in terms of what you need. So you can get that pretty much anywhere. And I'm hoping that will make it possible for a lot of different people that take this class. Plus cloaks are pretty much an entire costume on their own. Think about it. You can be a vampire with some paper things in your club. You can be a witch with a pointy hat or even a superhero. If you put a big S on your tests, cloaks are covering your entire body so they really can do a lot. And that's I mentioned fashion cloaks are an amazing way to create a really interesting fashion piece. I once made a black long wool cloak with really pink fuzzy, um, material on the inside That was really soft and unique. And I don't think anyone else's had a cloak like that. In the next lesson, I'm going to walk you through on how to pronounce the Digital Pattern. Make sure your printers are full of ink and ready to go. Let's get to it. 3. How to Download and Print the Pattern: Welcome back. In this lesson, I'm going to show you how to download, print and put together the pattern for this class. Becoming comfortable with using digital patterns is a great resource because often independent creators create digital patterns in. Independent patterns have better instructions, video instructions. So along, better resources that are community banks that are easier to use than those real patterns from box stores. So that's why I think it's really great that you learn how to use those and that's why I included it in my class. It don't worry if you don't have a printer at home, you can always utilize and print store, printing place a library anywhere that you can use a printer, you can download the pattern below. It's listed in the resource section of this class. Here I am an Adobe Acrobat looking at the at-home print file, there is only one size too. This pattern, as you can see, the dashed line is the seam line in the edges is the seam allowance. You need to print out all of the pieces in them together. 145, using tape or other forms of adhesive. I'm going to print it out now to show you the formatting, please note that this will look different for PC or Mac. I'm making sure there is no scaling. It is the actual size. If you do not do this, it'll distort the pattern and you will get a different size. Please make sure you're printing all of the pages letter size. Look at the preview to confirm. You can also check the test square by printing the first page. Paper type and quality is up to you. Just make sure you can see the lines. Again, this is 45 pages for the letter size. You should be able to see all of the borders for the actual page. The icons are what connects each tile together. So that's how you will align it up. Here we are back at the flap section of the pattern. You can see the change between the gray and black lines marking the difference between the left and right front pieces. I'm cutting one side with the flap in one side with just the solid black lines. It can be the left or the right depending on how you cut your fabric. All right, here we are at my table with two of the first pages of the pattern. As you can see, 12. You will need something to cut or you can simply fold back all the edges. The goal here is to take each page and cut along the gray edges that will print along each and every piece. Cutting along the edges creates the tile. And it's the along the gray edges meeting the symbols right there you can see is what we want to do for each and every piece. If you're printing the letter version one through 45, you're going to tile like this. I encourage you all to be organized and mentally walk your way through the project before you cut or by anything. I'm going over the supplies in the next lesson, so meet me back here. And until then, don't get too angry at your printers and get those patterns ready. 4. Supplies Overview: Welcome back. In this lesson, I'm simply going to go over the supplies you'll need to make this cloak. Alright, first off, you'll need a sewing machine, something that can do straight stitches at the very least and that you're comfortable with. Of course, the iron. While an iron is not a 100% necessary for this project, it is really important you learn pressing techniques now early on so you don't have a big headache later when you wish you would've learned. Of course you will need fabric. I recommend four yards of medium to heavy weight fabric that you like and feels good against your skin. At the end of the day, a cloak is a blanket, so feel free to up cycle any old blankets you have around the house or go to some thrift stores and see what they have. If you can't find anything, there's always the fabric store and you can just buy four yards. Always look in remnants and you can have multiple colors in this project is due. Be creative and make this your own if you want this for a costume or some other specific thing, plan for that before you start cutting. And following my process. If you need to make this for your specific project, edit the instructions ahead of time. You'll need two pairs of scissors, one for fabric, one for paper. Please try to keep them separate or invest in a good sharpener. You're going to want something to mark the fabric. Here I have a heat erasable pen and a chalk pen. These are my favorite tools, but anything you have that leaves a mark on the fabric that you can remove, it will work for sure. You'll want some pins and clips. I want to show you how to pin correctly early on. Any type of pen will do. For any project, you'll need some thread. You can choose matching or contrasting thread depending on the type of style you're going for. And of course, you'll need a closure for your cape, a button, the strap, or even a cloak pin is a really good choice. I'm using a button which I'll show you later on. But do make sure to think about this a little bit before you make your decision. And optionally, a seam Ripper and some snips for those mistakes and keeping things tidy. Optionally as well is some fray check. Pinching shears are always an option to finish off those edges. Lastly, make sure you have your pattern printed, taped and ready to go. You'll need it for the next lesson where I go over how we cut those pattern pieces out of the fabric. Let's get to it. 5. Cutting the Pattern Pieces: Layout your fabric either on the large table or the floor, as I'm doing. If you are using store-bought fabric, the finish ends or salvage will be folded together opposite of the fold. The fold is important because our back piece for this project is cut along the fold. And cutting on the fold allows it to then open up and become double the size, which is very useful in big garments like a cloak. Here are the triangles that I refer to as notches that we'll meet up in the sewing process, do cut extruded triangles. It can be a little tricky, but as long as you can recognize what it is, that's what's important. Here I've laid out my pieces aiming to save the most fabric. However, there is a rule you need to learn and follow and that's following the green line. The green line is very important. It's the arrows that you see on every single pattern piece. And it's simply telling you where the long grain of the fabric is. And this is important because if you cut your patterns, Let's say diagonally, they would have a lot more stretch to them then cutting on the green line and then things could be puckered or not sit right, or be stretching when it's not supposed to be. And so that can be bad. And so to save ourselves this issue, we cut along the green line. I personally pin my pattern pieces of paper to the fabric to cut them out. Others often trace using tracing paper or a pen or what have you. I think that takes longer and so I just cut off the paper, pin it and cut it out. Often this will lead to ratty or paper patterns, so I'll end up tossing them. But you need to decide what is the best and easiest method that gets your pattern pieces cut out. You can use washable pens or markers on the front and back of the fabric to say what they are. If that helps you, I still mark my right and wrong sides to make my job easier. I think sewing is about 80% preparation, which is just getting everything together and mentally getting ready in 20% of actually doing the work. All right, now you should have all of the pattern pieces cut. The hard part is over, that is the hard part for me. The front, we'll have two pieces. One will have a flap, do be aware it to cut along the gray lines from one and just a solid black lines for one side. You can decide what side do you want the flap on, or you can decide not to have a flop entirely if you want and just cut two from the black line side. Up next we're actually attaching the front to the back, so we are sowing. Let's get to it. 6. Assembling the Main Body: Welcome back to my sewing room. Today we are actually getting to use the machine. You're going to do after you cut out your fabric is think. Before I stitch anything, I pin my fabrics mentally check I have the right sides together or should I say the wrong sides or on the outside where you're stitching and you can visually see it. Here is the already marked back. You can see W stands for wrong side. I want that facing down because I'm going to put fabric on top of it. I'm gonna get one of my friends. It doesn't matter which one you start with. This is my right side. We're gonna make sure wrong side, wrong side, or on the outsides. The right, so the R's are touching. We're gonna pin. Pinning is a little tedious, but definitely not difficult. I'm left-handed, so I'm going left to right. You might be going right to left. But what I'm doing is sticking it in both layers of fabric, going all the way through, going all the way through, and then shoving it back in half an inch down. I want to be doing this following the seam allowance. If it's easier for you feel free to take your chalk and actually draw the seam allowance on your fabric so you can pin along that drawn line. I wanted to do it visually since eyes feel confident, since I'm experienced it, but do whatever you feel comfortable with. I put one pin, just one and now I'm going to go all the way to the bottom. And since this is a cloak, It's a bit of an undertaking. Let's go all the way down to the bottom. You might notice in my bottom that I have some of the salvage still remaining. I don't mind that it's within the seam allowance. So once I push back the seam allowance, It's all fine. But it's good to be aware that that's a possibility you might have as well. Just like before. I'm going along the seam allowance in pinning finishing. So now we have the top and the bottom pins. The reason we did that is because we're new. We don't know how to control the stretch of the fabric as we saw. And we want to make sure we don't get overhang at the end of our seam. On a flat surface like a table or the floor. And now it would be easy to lay it all out in Pinot. You can do it evenly. And if you don't have that wide of a space, you can stretch it with your hands and grab the middles as well and then pin those middles. That's what I've just done myself since I'm working in a smaller area. Painting is not forever. So if you feel like you made a mistake, just start over again. We've made it to the end. The entire front theme has pins along the seam allowance. This will make your life very easy. Just sewing right along down and not have to worry about finger pulling the fabric as you so but it is a bit of a crutch. So don't get too comfy. Once you are finished pinning though, you can check your seam now. See I've pinned all along the seam allowance. Now I can just open up and look RNR right sides together. And you can basically get a preview of what the siem will look like. If you see any crazy puckering or anything you're not expecting or you realized you accidentally pin the wrong sides together. This is a great time to fix that before you actually stitch anything. That's why I recommend learning how the pen along your seam allowance. It's a little tedious, but it's really good for when you're learning. Now let's do the second side. If you've finished both sides like I have. Let's head over to the sewing machine. All right, here we are back at my machine today I'm using a standard straight stitch that's number one on my machine. I tend to keep the length anywhere between 2.53 millimeters today, since the fabric is thicker on when you go up to three, if you have quite a hard time getting your fabric through, keep making the length longer, that should help. So I'm removing the needles as I go lifting up my presser foot lining up the fabric to my seam allowance, my machine. I'm putting my needle down first. There is a button for that. You may need to use your wheel. And I'm also using a locking stitch function. You might want to do a few backwards and forwards stitches to lock down your seams. Once it's locked, go as slowly as you need to and stitch down the line following the seam allowance. Slowly removing the pins as you go. And if like me, your machine has a speed setting. Don't be afraid to move it to a slower setting as you get comfortable. Just slowly. Take out the pins as you go. Making sure that both pieces of fabric or sitting right on top of each other in place where you can. Alright, follow me over to my ironing board where we're going to press the seam. This will walk in the stitches in sharpen the overall appearance of the garment. If your fabric doesn't fray or if you've been using pink shears, just press the seam open. Otherwise you can finish the CMB with surging or other types of stitching. I'm personally going to take my seams down to my surgery and finish them off. Here is the demonstrated surged edges. With that, our body is all finished and we are ready to move on to the hood. I'll see you there. 7. Constructing the Hood: We finished the entire body and now it's time to get started on the hood. The hood might seem a little bit more complicated, but it's truly the fun part and where things start to come together has four pieces and total two main into lining. So that's four total. You can make it all one type of fabric, but it will be quite thick. So you'll have to make that decision based on the weight of your fabric. I'm personally using the same fabric for all four layers because it's more of a medium weight fabric. And I like a really structured hood that's thick and doesn't flop around. But you'll have to make that decision based on your project. Here we have the forehead pieces. They're all stacked together. Mine are all of the same fabric. And I don't have to worry about right or wrong side, but I'm going to separate them now. I encourage you to do the same and we're going to pin them. We're going to pin them first around this part here. The back curve, just like before, as we did on the seams for the main body, you're going to take the edges, line them up in pin along the seam allowance. I'm going to do the same when I'm done with my lining pieces. Once everything is pinned, we can take them to our machine and stitch. Remember to check your seams and that you have the right and wrong sides of fabric together as you. So here's what it should look like. All of the pins along the seam allowance. And then you're gonna do the exact same thing to the lining. I'm going to go into my sewing machine. We're going to stitch along the back edge for both the main fabric and the lining. Same Fitch settings as previously. Needle down, locking stitch. And go. The only thing different about sewing this segment is why are no longer straight like they once were. So I do have to be careful maybe stop and start and pick up the presser foot if need be around the curvy sections if you find them quite challenging. But most importantly, follow the pins and go slow. Remember the lock your stitches at the beginning and the end. Here is one down. One to go. Okay, here's what we're gonna do. You see that I have both of my seams I just stitch press open because they're going to be hidden on the inside. What you're gonna do is stitch the main to the lining along this front section here. We are stitching this front and we're still leaving this curved section here, the color area free. Right here. We are combining the two at the same. They will now become one good piece with this stitch line at the front seem one of the hoods I'm going to make look like it's on the right side. So here's the correct seem. The finished edge right here in the seam allowances and are now on the inside pressed open. This finished hood is going to slip inside. You're just pairing them together. Now what you're gonna wanna do is pinna. I like to start by pinning the seams together at the front of the hood, starting to pin along the seam allowance, starting with the seams here meeting in the middle. And you'll follow all the way down here. Match up the ends again, like we've done with other seams. Pinning along the seam allowance. We have one end the middle and now the other. Like so. And then I'm just going to pin all the way on all the sides like I've done previously. I'm just going to put one more pin now. There we go. All right. We have the fronts pinned. The neckline is still free. We're going to go take this to the way sewing machine. And so it aligning and the main just freshly sewn together along the front edge. As you can see, here's the same. There's the same. Now we still have it open down here. And that's what we're gonna do, is we're going to flip it so that it looks like the finished product. You're going to open it up at the bottom. Just flip it around. When you're done opening it up, it will look like both. Like there's two hoods attached at their front, which can be a little scary. It looks like you did something wrong. And so both of them should have the seams on the inside. So it looks like there's two finished hoods, but what you're going to want to do is take the middle lifted up, grab the End of one, and shove it inside of the other. Shoved one of the hoods inside the other. And that gives you the result like this. It's basically to hoods together. The inside has the finished seam, the outside has the finished seam, and the only raw edge now will be at the bottom neck line. Everything. What you'll want to do is just press this really, really good, get these edges really, really crisp, clean looking. And if you want, you can add a line of top stitching to this front edge opening. An optional step is adding some basting stitch or just pinning the entire raw section of the bottom of the hood because that is what you're going to be attaching next. And you want to get that nice and ready to go. Because we're attaching this section right here to the color of the body, of the cloak. Alright, next up is attaching the hood to the body. It won't be long before you're wearing the cloak. 8. Attaching the Hood: All right, By now you should be feeling pretty confident. We've sewn the body, we've sewn the hood, and now all that's left is to put them together. All right. You'll want to grab both the hood and the body. So we have the hood. You can see I decided to base the raw edge here that we're going to actually be painting today. I also press the front edge so it lies flat if you want, you can also add a line of top stitching. This is good to go. And then we also have the body of our cloak we're working with. Next scene with the flat. Now our notches are going to come into play. What you're gonna wanna do is lay the body down with the wrong side on the table and the right side facing up. So I'm looking at my arm. We want to be putting those seem right there into the middle. We want to place that seem right in the middle of our two notches so we know that's the exact middle. And so you can place your first pin there. I like to start in the middle. And so now we're actually going to want to match up our notches. As you can see, we got the double notches. This is the middle part of the back. I'll do the other notch on the other side. All right. Now we want to line up our other single notch. You have one on both sides and you'll just pin that like so. Then you'll just want to pin along meeting your notches. You can do that by manipulating the fabric, by pulling on the little to make it sit flat. Don't be afraid. Those notches are there to make sure that one side doesn't stretch out as you're pinning and then things end up misaligned because you can get the hood to be farther on the right than the left and it will look a little lopsided. All right, Don't worry, worry about this raw edge here when this seem gets finished, as you can see, it will fold down and become a finished edge. Just stitch all the way to the end. Here I have the hood in my hand and I can lift it up and pool. And imagine the finished seam. Here it would look. And I can make sure that the right side and not the wrong side. I'm confident when I go and stitch my scene because I took the time and pinned everything properly. I'll meet you right back here with the seam finished. I have my next seam. As you can see, I do have basing stitching, so it can be a little hard to see on one side, but that's the same. Here's what it looks like on that. Here's what it looks like on this and this edge on the flat folds down. That's part of the hem. So that will just all fall down. And so that's what the finish edge of the hood looks like from the other side with this folded down. So that's what that looks like. Okay. So now we check our work. You put the hood on, you look at the front, the back, the scene makes sure everything looks good. You don't want any gaps or stitching or fabric puckering. You don't want it to look messy. All right. There is my surged neckline seem you can do whatever method you want to do. Very easy. It's a little ugly, but it'll keep things nice and secure. I'll see you in the next lesson. We are going to start having these raw edges. 9. Hemming: Welcome back. Are you just too excited to finish this cloak? I know I am. This was supposed to view a present for someone a while ago, so I'm really excited to get it. Now all we're gonna do is finish all the raw edges off starting with the flap. The hem is just simply using the extra fabric here along the seam allowance that didn't end up in a seam. So we're taking that five-eighths of an inch and we're folding it once. And then we're folding it a second time. And then it becomes a finished rolled over edge that will not fray. So you're going to need your iron and some pins. And we're going to start right here with the flap. I am going to visually remind us where the seam allowance is with my chalk. I'm just going to draw the line in here. I know what that part of the fabric I have to work with. What we are also going to do is fold in this front edge right here also following the seam allowance. And you might notice that these edges, you're going to have a difficult time ruling them both because they are connected here. What you want to do is take these chalk line, you're drawing of the seam allowance and let them meet right there. And then you're going to draw on that and take that to the edge. Can you see you create this line coming from the corner? And I want you to take a pair of scissors and basically cut into this edge, completely into the corner. But very nearly because we're, what we're gonna do is him and fold these edges in. The stitching is going to secure that corner and we don't have to worry about it being wrong. Just let a little bit of a snip there and I'm going to trim off some extra edges that my fabric produced. Now we can get back to actually taking the iron, hemming our flap. Okay, so first things first we are going to want to press a quarter of an inch on all three sides, starting 12 and then three. And then we're gonna do it a second time. You're gonna have to finance where it leads into the hood a little bit, just making sure you get a clean result. Now I'm going to want to do the bottom part. I've been having a little trouble keeping the front edge down. So I'm going to pull out my favorite tool, which is a sticky washable tape. This really helps keep things in place when they don't want to be. Now I have all three edges press down. I did one fold and then the second fold, using the entire fights, eighths of an inch seam allowance to create the hem. These corners in particular are a little difficult and especially if you have thicker fabric, you might want to trim them to make them less bulky as you're folding it up. But I'll leave that up to you. I did decide to do the front part folded down twice first before these other edges because in revision that created a better result. Now I'm going to press the remaining front edge here. We cut into this right here, and we're gonna do the remaining front edge. Here is the corner. I can redraw the seam line here. This is the amount of fabric that will become the hem all the way down to the end of the cloak. And we're doing the same exact thing, pressing in a quarter of an inch first. Just like that. And I know this is going to take awhile and I know it seems a little boring. But your edges are going to look so crisp, so clean when they're done, that you will be glad you did this. Instead of difficult, it's just time-consuming and that's not so bad. The entire length of the cape, one side press down a quarter of an inch. Now I'm going to just as before, finger rolling my first fold down, enrolling right on top of it, essentially using my iron. Slowly going down the length of the cloak until it's nice and flat and ready to sell. When I'm done with that. The other opening of the front side, the hood edge and just like the other side, this raw edge turns down. Okay. Unlike the other one, it's a lot simpler. You just simply were all at once, roll it twice. Press instead, it's a lot easier. You just do the second step, which is following along the front line of the opening of the cloak. From the head all the way down. You'll do that the second time. And then you'll be done Pressing or pinning your front edges. And when you're done pressing and pinning, you'll want to take it over the machine and I'll meet you there. Back-up my machine. I'm ready to secure my front him. Now unlike before, I'm not using the seam allowance as my sewing guide. I'm actually going to line it up with this side of my presser foot with my meal kneel position, that gives me about a fourth of an inch of an allowance. What you want to do is just as normal, line it up with the edge of your presser foot, put your knees down. Of course. Four hemes. I like to leave the stitch length a little bit longer. Now I am using matching thread this time because you would the thread on the right side of the fabric and I don't want it to be visible because it's not very decorative. I apologize if it's hard to see. When you're finished, your front hemes should look like this. You want them flat and looking very nice from the front side. Pay careful attention to the flap because that's going to be quite visible when you button or pin your cloak. Alright, now we're gonna finish off the bottom edge. This is quite a long cloak, so if you do want to shorten it now is the last chance. Put it on walk-around, make sure you like the length of the club. Alright, with our edges trimmed and unframed, we're going to do exactly as we did before, which is folded back once and then fold it a second time. Impress. We really want this flat like before in clean. This is our final hem. So let's make sure it's nice. I'm going to head over to my sewing machine. And so this off camera. And then we'll be finished. I'll meet you in the next lesson where I show you how I add a button to my cloak, finishing it off. 10. Adding the Button Closure: For those of you who want to add a button to your club, that's what this lesson is for you may already be finished using simpler means like a cloak pin. Now, don't get discouraged if you're sewing machine doesn't have an automatic buttonhole feature, you don't need that to add button, you can use a piece of elastic or fabric strap to make a little loop and attach that to the end of the flap to then secure the button down. Or you can look up hand sewn button holes or Welt button holes, which can be done on the sewing machine. There are lots of different options out there. Your imagination is the limit. I will be using the automatic buttonhole feature on my machine because I have it available. A lot of entry-level machines have this feature, which is why I wanted to include it. It's kind of a scary mechanism, but as long as you read your manual for your machine, you should be good. First we're gonna make the buttonhole and then attach the button. That's because you want to be able to make the placement for the actual final button after you've already made the buttonhole. And so you can put it on and see if it fits or not properly before you make that final stitch. If it's for someone and you can't test the actual fit of the garment. It might be a better idea to choose a cloak pin since that is very easy to fit anyone. I'm going to now mark where the button is going. I'm gonna take my chalk like I've been doing. I'm going to visually place the button and where I'd like it. And I'm going to about a half of an inch and I'm gonna mark both sides with my chalk. So now I have two lines. Then I'm going to meet that line right up in the middle. And you want to visually make sure that this looks quite even because this is what you're going to use as your guide on your sewing machine to create eight year buttonhole. Just like that, here is my attachment is a traditional buttonhole attachment. You can see with many modern automatic sewing machines. Do I love it? No. Does it work some of the time? As you can see, we did our button hole placement right here. You want to start at the bottom. Because as you know, machines go this way. So you're starting right here down at the bottom and then we're gonna make a button hole all the way to this top right where we've marked it. And don't worry if something were to go amiss, you always have your seam Ripper ready to go. There's a lever on mine that I have to pull down and I have very a specific buttonhole stitches on my machine that I have to follow. Do learn your machine. I'm going to just let my machine doing the work, pressing down on the foot pedal, watching it and gently making sure it goes straight and doesn't have any issues. If you do have any hiccups, do not let it make a big knot ball under your work. Just stop and assess. Maybe not a 120% perfect and I'm not even sure if you can see it, but we have a button hole right here. Here we are back at my table. You should have made your buttonhole. I do recommend adding some free check before you open it that will help keep everything together. What you're going to want to do now is take two pins at both the front and the end of your buttonhole, just like so. You don't want the button hold to be open past where you want it and then you're gonna take your Siemer bird, press it all the way through and push it through. You have an open button hole, like so. It may be a little difficult to get it exactly where you want it. Then you might have to trim some free edges. Use this product I recommend for a check to keep any of your edges from unraveling if you have a slightly ugly buttonhole, most of my button holes can be ugly. It really depends on my machine and the thickness of the fabric and just how things are going that day. So if you have an ugly buttonhole, really don't worry about it and just try to make sure the Next button holes better. Your button. Using whatever method you can for the type of button you have, you want to attach it to your cloak after you've determined the placement once putting it on, I'm going to have my person but on their cloak. And then I'm going to mark where this button goes and then stitch the button on right there. If it doesn't look good the first time you can move the button around. Nothing is set in stone and then we're done. Yay. Congratulations. All right. If you want to stick with me, I'll be back with my final thoughts up next. 11. Final Thoughts: Welcome back. We've finished. I can't tell you how happy I am to be wearing this cloak in the woods. Isn't it beautiful? If there's one thing I hope you take from this class, it's don't be afraid to be a beginner. Print out all the patterns, take all the notes. Take your time. Because the main thing I regret is happening to go back and relearn the same things over and over and over again because I was a messy learner and I didn't take good notes. So don't be like me. Learn slowly, incompletely and then you can confidently move from project to project. If there's one thing I ask of you, It's please show me your work. Please upload your project to the project gallery so we all can see the hard work and things you've learned and put into this class. If you liked this class and want to see more, always leave a comment or a review so I know what you think. Thanks again. I'll see you next time.