Knotted Monogram Hoop: Learn to Stitch French Knots & Colonial Knots | Dana Batho | Skillshare

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Knotted Monogram Hoop: Learn to Stitch French Knots & Colonial Knots

teacher avatar Dana Batho, Peacock & Fig Surface Designer

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

7 Lessons (47m)
    • 1. Class Overview

    • 2. Materials

    • 3. Colonial Knots

    • 4. French Knots

    • 5. Stitching the Wreath

    • 6. Final Knots

    • 7. Final Words

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About This Class

Learn how to add gorgeous texture and dimension to your hand embroidery and cross stitch projects using knots with designer Dana Batho of Peacock & Fig. Learn the basic materials you'll need, how to do Colonial knots and French knots, as well as backstitch and detached chain stitch to finish up the wreath.


Dana will teach you the differences in forming Colonial knots and French knots, so you can confidently use these stitches. This project stitches up as a gorgeous little hoop for yourself or to gift to a loved one. The skills you will learn in this class are important because they will give you the confidence you need to use knots in both cross stitch and hand embroidery projects (and you'll never have to replace knots in a pattern with beads again). 


If you’re a new stitcher, it's recommended to start with the Hand Embroidery Fundamentals class first to learn the basics of embroidery and forming basic stitches. In this knots class you’ll rejoice in being able to create such luscious texture using knots in your projects, and you'll get lots of helpful tips and tricks based on Dana's years of designing and teaching stitching to millions of happy stitchers. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Dana Batho

Peacock & Fig Surface Designer


Hi there! I'm Dana Batho, designer and founder of Peacock & Fig! 

I’m well known for my easy to follow tutorials and fun colourful cross stitch and hand embroidery patterns (and sometimes quite snarky designs). My patterns have been featured in Cross Stitch Crazy magazine, Just CrossStitch Magazine, on, and I’m also a regular designer for XStitch Magazine. My tutorials have been featured on sites like BuzzFeed and Hello Giggles, and they have had millions of views online. I'm also a surface pattern designer (I loooove wallpaper) and illustrator. 

I've been creating art my entire life, and did four years of art and design training in New Zealand. I returned to my art and craft life after an injury while serving in the Canadian Armed Forces forc... See full profile

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1. Class Overview: Hi there. I'm Danna on the owner and designer of Peacock and Fig. In this class, you're going to learn how to do colonial knots and French knots with this cute little pattern. Not so important embroidery skill to master because they're found in both hand embroidery and cross stitch patterns. If your noodle embroidery, I would suggest doing the hand embroidery fundamentals class in which you learn how to do this cute little project here in this class, you're going to learn what materials you'll need. Colonial nuts, French knots as well as back stitch and the detached chain stitch to finish the wreath. So what are you waiting for? Let's jump right in and get started. 2. Materials: All right. So the first thing we're gonna be going into is what materials you'll need for this class. So obviously, you'll need your printed pattern. Got this page, which is your pattern you're gonna be tracing. Scott, you're stitching map. We'll go into this in a little bit more detail in a while and also the alphabet chart. So this is what you're gonna be tracing onto for your pattern itself. So I'm using a three inch embroidery hoop for this, which is, if you print this 100% it's gonna fit perfectly. If you did want to do this on a bigger hoop like, say, you want to do a series of letters like make a word like love or happy or something like that, you're gonna need a bigger hoop, obviously, So you can just blow this pattern up and then put it in his many letters as you need. You can also, uh, blow up this alphabet sheet when you're printing it, or you can shrink it down to make the letters a little smaller, A swell, so you have a few options, and also you'll need a piece of fabric roughly seven inches by seven inches because of the three in troop. That'll give you enough space around it to tighten your hoop and what not. You can see that I've already trace my design on here. If you don't know how to do this yet, I've used a friction pin for this. You can go to the hand embroidery fundamentals class, and there's a whole little mini lesson on how to actually transfer your pattern onto your fabric. So if you're not sure how to do that, I would recommend checking that lesson out. But I've just used a friction pen here. Ah, for backing your hoop. Once it's finished, you're gonna need a square of felt. This is roughly seven inches square as well, but you really only need it to be big enough That's going to go across the back of your hope. And obviously you're going to be needing some selling thread to stitch your felt on once you're finished, if that's how you decide you want to finish your hoop, I'm using the same color as a felt you can use a contrast in color as well. You can also use just embroidery floss rather than sewing thread and you're gonna be needing needles. So for this class, you're going to need two types of needles. Maybe it depends on the needle on. I'll explain. So for the main embroidery parts that not the French not set of the colonial nuts. Um, I'm gonna be using an embroidery needle. I'm gonna be using a number six. I've actually written on here the sizes of these. You can see they go from size three, which is the big ones to nine, which is smallest one. So I've actually written on here. I'm gonna be using roughly and number six. Just any embroidery Needle. Meaning? It has to be sharp. Not a dull tapestry needle enough that will fit two strands of your embroidery floss. So you need your embroidery needle for the main part, and you also need what's called a milliners needle. So you can see this is a very straight shaft. You can see that the eye of the needle is the same width as the rest of the shaft. The embroidery needles are slightly wider. Conceive the eye of the needle is just very slightly wider than the shaft. So these will work for the knots. But It's better if you have one. If you have a large collection of needles like I do, you probably have one floating around to get a milliners needle or something that's totally straight along the shaft, so that I as the same width as a shaft. And I'll explain more about why, that is, once we get into doing the knots. So for the not you definitely do not want to use a tapestry needle. It's a common mistake that a lot of crossed is yours. Do is they can't figure out whether or not start working when they're trying to use the same needle, so you can see that the eye is much wider than the shaft. And again, I'll explain why that's magical and why that really helps with your knots off. See, you need some scissors and your embroidery flaw. So I've got six colors here. You can choose whatever colors you like. Um, for the actual monogram part, I'm doing an ombre effect like a gradation, some going from light to dark. So I've got three shades of purple. You can choose any color you want. You can do contrast and colors whatever you likes. But These are the colors that I have chosen. And the color numbers will be in your materials list as well. So that's it for your materials. In the next lesson, I'm going to be showing you how to actually start on. I'm gonna be starting with the colonial knots. 3. Colonial Knots: All right, So for this one, I'm gonna be teaching how to do Colonial knots First. For some reason, some people find have heard a lot of people say that they actually prefer colonial knots as opposed to French knots. A lot of people somehow seem to find colonial knots easier to do. For some reason, I'm air quotes special, and I actually find French knots a lot easier to do. But I will teach you Colonial knots first, Just in case you do find them easier for this pattern. You can use either colonial lots or French knots or mix Um, just a practice. It's totally up to you. They both they look very, very similar. Cologne. You not stew tend to end up slightly smaller, but yeah, they look almost identical. So which everyone is you're more comfortable with? Please feel free to do that. But first, what I'm going to do for the ombre effect that we're talking about is you can see on the pattern. Uhm, this thing, these letters actually have lines on which is actually gonna be really helpful, because what I'm gonna do is you can't quite see it through the camera, but you need to hold this up to, ah, window if you want to see the lines of it better. So I'm gonna use my friction pen again. Don't use a permanent pen if if you're if you've drawn it on with apartment pen and you want to cover up all your lines, do not do this. This part with the permanent pen because you won't be able to stitch over these lines. These are just guidelines. So what I'm gonna actually do is divide this roughly up into third. So if you want to hold us up to the window to see through it better and actually use those lines that are on the letters as a guideline, I'm just eyeballing this. So you're just gonna be wanting to divide this up in the thirds roughly. So if you're not familiar with the friction Penzias a race with heat seeking either hit it with an iron afterwards or with a hot blow dryer, and that's these lines will disappear. So I'm dividing it up into thirds, and that's actually going to be my color gradations so that I'm gonna go from light to dark . So my light colors are gonna be at the top, mid tone in the middle, dark tone at the bottom. But they're actually gonna be blending together a little bit as well to give it more of a gradation. If you want to do a totally like, straight harsh line, particularly is, like safe you doing like a rainbow effect. Totally fine. To do that where you can do what I'm gonna be showing you as we work this pattern to give it sort of more that subtle hombre gradation. So, as I mentioned before, you're gonna be launching to use a milliners needle for your any Not so whether it's colonial, not French, not whatever, simply because the shaft is dead straight from the I. So basically, what's gonna happen as we're forming our knots is your eye because it's the same width as a shaft, your eye as it passes through the knot and through the fabric, it's not gonna blow apart. You're not at the last minute, which is where a lot of cross stitchers when they're trying to add French, Not so they're crossing patterns. Usually you'd add French knots across such patterns. At the end. After you finish stitching, you can see that the eye of the tapestry needle is way wider than the chef. So what happens? Is there almost good? They're almost good. That was good. And then, as the needle passes through the fabric that wide, I literally blows the not apart and people get really angry. And then they think they just can't do French knots or colonial nods, and they get really mad. And then they start replacing the knots with beads, which is another really cool effect. But it's not the effect we're going for here. I really, really like knots like I love French knots like, I think they've got a really beautiful texture that you cannot replicate with beads. So that's why I wanted to teach this class about how how to do these not to do them well. So tapestry needle totally out for doing knots. Theme, bravery, needles you can experiment with and see how you go. The the I is very slightly wider than the shaft, but it's not dramatically water, so they may work for you as well. So if you only have one needle, use an embroidery needle. But I would recommend getting a straighter shaft needle as well, often, shops like dollar shops or craft stores have had, like, these mixed packs of needles. And quite often, there be a Miller milliners needle in there. And I'm sorry if you can't see that focused, here we go. So, yeah, straight. That's what you want your notes. So I've got two strands on my needle right now. I'm gonna do not at the end. This is a quilters. Not I've shown this before another shows, but it's super cool. You just put your needle over top of year thread, wind around a couple times, pull it together and then squish it with your fingers. Push your you go through. Keep keep squishing it, tuna, not magic. So I'm gonna be starting at the top of this first, Obviously have to hope it up. So get this out of the way. And with these particular thes alphabet letters as well, because they are quite graphic and they got some neat lines. If you want to stitch this another way, say with back stitch and actually stitched those lines and rather than using the knots or, like do back stitch with some knots interspersed throughout it totally fine. It's your project. It's a nice thing about embroidery is it's quite flexible. You can kind of wing it and you go and see what looks best to you. I'm gonna tighten this up. That's okay. You don't want your hope so tight is gonna break. But you do want it tight enough It's gonna hold your your fabric nice and taut, particularly for knots. All right, so gonna not in the end. So for any of these thin little lines, you're just gonna do one row of knots and then the rest of it you're just gonna be spreading them all over the place. So don't worry about that too much. He can also see When I traced my pattern, I didn't add in all these extra knots. You totally can if you want, But because he's air sort of meant to be more scattered and stuff, you could just kind of wing it when you're stitching these other knots around the edges and stuff like that so you can draw them in and if you want to, or you could just leave them and then just wing it at the end, totally up to you. All right. So bringing her needle up. So I'm gonna teach you the Colonial. Not first. So the colonial not you're gonna be coming up roughly where you want your not I'm gonna make a backward C shape next. So when you gonna take the tip of your needle, I'm gonna put it under that C c can see It's sort of made making 1/2 rap around and then what you're gonna dio So you got your half see? Kind of looked around. You're not or your needle s So you're gonna take this end this loose end and you gonna wrap it the other way around the tip of your needle. You basically making a figure age. So again you've got your half, see? And then you're wrapping around the tip of your needle like that. So you basically making a figure age? So then what you're gonna want to do is pull, like, not pull really hard, like you're wanting to do this gently. Otherwise, you could actually create a not accidentally further up than you want. Pull gently. The trick is to keep tension on this thread here, and you're gonna put the tube your needle really close to where you came up, but not in the exact same spot. That's one of the tricks of doing any of these knots. You don't want to put your needle in the exact same spot you came up. That's something that, for some reason, some teachers or some lessons I've seen teach you to do, and it it's a really good way toe. Make sure that you're not pops out the back, which is another problem a lot of stitchers have. So you're holding your attention here. Not hard, but you're keeping it taught you. Put your two pure needle really close to where you came up, and then you're pushing through. You can see this is kind of a two handed thing. If you've got an embroidery who stand little Clampett, it's a lot easier. Otherwise, you might have to do it on a a table or some other service. You can hold it up, but it's just a little bit tricky. Kind of keep maneuvering your fabric around, so you're still keeping tension on here. You don't don't let this go, and you slowly draw your your needle through. You want to do this slowly because otherwise you know you could accidentally create a not further up in your needle, especially using a longer thread like I am. So you're what you're wanting to keep your tension on that thread until the last possible second and then gently pull it through. It's really small, really hard to see, but that's your purse. Not so again. This color of loss is a little bit hard to see against the fabric, but hopefully you can see exactly what I'm doing will be him a lot more obvious once you start moving to the darker colors. So again for Colonial, not you're making your half see your mercy, putting the tip of your needle underneath the top. Fred. You can even pinched out of it with your finger if it makes it easier wrapping your thread around the other direction the tip of the needle and then pulling that gently and keeping it to watch. Drop your needle tip just next to where you came up and you can see by pulling this thread . It kind of drop set, not right down to the surface of the fabric. That's what you want. You don't want your not to be sitting way up here until the last minute because then you might end up like a weird, loose piece of flaws caught up. So you do want to try and drop that down as much as you can. You could even push it down with your fingertip warrior, your nail typical of long nails like I do. And then again keeping your tension on this thread. You can let it go if you need to. Just don't draw your needle through if you're, um, having to let go to get a better grip or move your fingers, your needles moving, Then keep that tension on and you can see him slowly drawing this through. Where is the end? Slowly drawing us through so you can see why it's good to keep the attention on it till the end. Because sometimes a thread can curl up on itself like that. You're going very slowly. There's a second. Not so do this once more, and then I'll explain what to do for the rest of the colors. But before you fill in arrest the color, I will actually demonstrate a French notch as well. So again we're coming up backwards. See needle under the top strand and around. Pull that not down to the surface of your fabric. Gently put your needle tip into the fabric close to where you came up. Keep that tension and then slowly draw your needle through so you can see I'm actually using quite long strands. For this you'll find with knots. You don't want to use such crazy, long strands that you end up getting unintentional knots in other places, like as you're drawing your thread through. But you will find that with French knots and colonial Not. You do want slightly longer strands of threads because you do have to do that action of winding thread around and kind of manipulating your needle around so you do want to have actually a little bit of slack. You'll also find that when it comes time to cut your threads, you're gonna end up with a longer strands that you normally would have left over just because you do need a certain amount of thread to even just video to manipulate the needle around. All right, so, you know, try and focus this in a little bit. Here we go. There we go. So you can see I've got three little knots there, a little bit tricky to see because of the color of the thread. But they're definitely three cute little knots. And what I'm gonna be doing is in the next video, I'm gonna be continuing working across the top of this. But with French, Not so. Then you can see the difference between the two knots. I would really recommend practicing them both and then deciding which one you like better. Sometimes you can mix them up and use both intermittently. But, uh, personally, I prefer French knots. I find them a little bit easier to do, so I wouldn't next lesson. I will be teaching you how to do your French knots. 4. French Knots: All right, so we're gonna keep going with these knots, but I'm actually gonna be teaching you the French Notch. As I said before, I actually find the French not a little bit easier, but some people find it more difficult. That's why I'm showing you both versions of the of how to make a Not in that way you can choose which one you like best. So again, your threat isn't anchored. So you're gonna again coming up really close to, um where your previous not waas. So whereas with the colonial not you're doing like a figure backwards c and going through and then wrapping it around the other way, like making a figure eight. This one you're only doing, um, wraps in one direction around your needle, depending on how many wraps you do will determine the thickness of your Not you don't want to go crazy and do, like, say, 10 wraps because that's gonna be too much. And then you're basically creating a bully and not which is a different. It's a Brazilian embroidery, such which is a bit different. So you don't want to be doing too many. I would say 2 to 3 if you want a sick or not as well, you can use more strands for French knots. Samos with colonial knots. But then you may find sometimes if you're not, seem a little open, it might be just that your shaft of your needle is too thick for the amount of strand you're using, so you could either try using an extra strand in your knots If you're finding them a bit to open. Or you could try using a narrower shaft needle, both of those will work. So with French knots again, you've got your thread. But instead of doing that, see thing, you're doing a rap, so I usually come at it. From this way, I'll put my needle tip against my thread like this, and then I wrap towards me a couple times. I'll do three just for the sake of it. Then you can pull them tight again, again. Not super tight, but pulled them together and you can work. She work this down by keeping your attention on here. You can work your not right down to the surface. Pretty much and again, you're putting your took of your needle down into your fabric very close to where you came up, but not in the same place. And with this dread, you're gonna be just pulling it just gently to work that not all the way down to the to the base. So that's what you want you want. You're not to be sitting on the fabric before you start pulling your needle through. Otherwise you can end up with is weird gaps. Where you're not is actually kind of floating in mid air, and it kind of flapping around, which isn't ideal and again keeping tension on this one. Before you start pulling through and again, draw through very, very slowly and gently. But keeping that tension on here if you want to, you can also put your finger on the not with your holding thumbs here, actually, still holding down the tension on that thread. Sorry, focus. Let's make sure that's actually in focus. Here we go. Um, you can actually see your Your thumb is actually holding down that tension thread, and it's holding the not in places. Well, it's You can do that as well, so you're still gently pulling. Once you do a couple of these, you'll start to get a feel for a sort of which method works best for you, like how to hold the fabric, how to hold a not so gently pulling, gently pulling, um, done. And as I said, you can see that the French not is a little bit bigger than the colonial knots. It's not a big deal. It's just it's because it's formed differently again. Come up next to it. You want these to be as close together as possible. You can space them out if you want. For this one we're doing those closest possible gets a really beautiful texture. So again get you need all wrap it around a couple times during 2.5 fish, dropping it down again, pulling this thread to get the not to drop down fully. So what you can do is you can hold your thread between your fingers like this, and then hold the not in place with your fingertip or with your thumb tip, and that also helps prevent. You're not from kind of spooling up on you as your as you're drawing. You're needle through your pushing through. Put it up another cute little not okay. We'll do one more to Siegen. See again. Come up a little bit faster. Wrap around a couple times, Drop your tip down again. Pull your not down. Keep that tension. Keep your finger over top of the Not if that makes you feel more secure. Threads. Caught him another beautiful little Not so There you go. So what we're gonna be doing is going to be continuing. If you're wanting to do this ombre effect, it's gonna be continuing doing this whole upper section with that one color but maybe the width of one set of not up. So maybe around here ish. So the line is, here's maybe run here ish. You're not gonna be filling that incompletely. Maybe do like instead of, like, say, four knots across you may be due to and then maybe do a couple down here and then maybe one down here. So basically, what that's gonna do is leave gaps that your next color can come up and fill, cause I will give that more of that great Asian effect. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna continue stitching this and I will show you what that looks like with leaving those gaps in place. and I'll see you back in a moment. All right, I'm back. So as you can see, I've finished that particular color. Bring it closer as you can see, Sure, it's focused so you can see have left a bit of gaps in the lower section here, and that's actually going to allow us to blend in the other color. As you can see here, too, you can see the colonial knots that I started with their much smaller. So if you wanted to do this, I guess an actual effect you like for all these little for the Sarah apps that are coming off a lot of the letters you could use Colonial notes because they're much smaller, and then and then fill the rest of French knots or use all colonial. That's all French knots, whatever you can see. Some my not sure quite sort of poofy, which I quite like. Like this. Why, like French, not because they all come out just a little different, and sometimes they're proof here than others, and I just love this texture. I think it's so, so, so pretty. Um, one thing to note to. If you have an issue with like, say, you're not formed like your thread forms and not as you're trying to pull it through or it just doesn't sit properly. And it's kind of like dangling in mid air or your thread gets tangled as you're trying to pull your your your not through. It happens like it's gonna happen. I mean, this is one of those things. So what I would suggest is actually Polier thread really tight, and that will actually the not that you're trying to create a little. Make it like a really, really small not on your thread and then gently pull your threads through to the back. And that should pop that not through. Do it really carefully. It depends on the type of fabric using as well, whether you could do that or not. And then you can just finish off your your threat at the back, cut it and then start a new start, a new thread with another not at the back. That's not a problem that it happens, So if you can't get this read through to the back, then you could maybe just a trim the not off, and then we have the end of your your thread through with another needle, and that will help finish it often. And just start again from where you left off. It happens, so don't even worry about it. Don't stress if it happens so up here. So I'm gonna start with the next color of here. I've left a little bit of Ah, gap here is like one in right here. So again, coming up 100 French not still because I love the texture. And you can try experimenting with different numbers of wraps to where they wanted to two and three. And you can actually, you know, vary that within your your product as well, and see how see how it turns out, give it a little bit of interesting texture and do more down here. So, like I mentioned before, if you doing cross that you wanted to your knots last just because you don't want the thread as you're pulling your thread through exist, you know it does trail across your fabric. It's a giant pain in the butt. If your thread is getting caught on other stitches, as you're trying to maintain tension on it and pull it through to form the not it's really not entertaining at all. So I would recommend leaving your knots toe last, unless you happen to be doing a lot of stitches really close to it like, say, maybe a leaf Citrus on like that, or satin stitch where you might be coming up really close than your needle might accidentally keep catching the knots, in which case you might not want to do them first. You might want to do them later, so just sort of depends on the project. When you choose to do your knots, whether you do them last or whether you do them first, do a couple more. You can see I'm not holding my my not down with my thumb like I was earlier. So once you kind of get the hang of this and you can actually get your attention going good and then you your knots won't fall apart. So that again, the three main things with knots use a straight shaft needle like a milliners needle. Make sure your attention is on your not properly. And don't go back down the same hole that you came up because that's pretty much guaranteed to pop. You're not through to the back, which will make you absolutely insane. And this is supposed to be relaxing. We don't want insanity and be easy on yourself to these. Sometimes people have a hard time getting the hang of knots. So if you're having a hard time with it, it's fine. Like practice on another piece of fabric. First, you don't have to practice on your you know, on this particular design for it, you can just get another scrap of fabric and just practice making a bunch of knots totally fine. So, as you can see, because we left some gaps in this one is just kind of blending this color through, which makes for a really, really pretty ombre effect. I'm gonna finish this one off. So what I'm gonna keep doing now is I'm gonna actually finish this d off completely. I'm gonna keep going with this medium purple, and again, I'm gonna around about here. I'm gonna start fading it out. Just putting a few less knots. And if you not sound here so that the darker one can fade into here, same thing on this other side. As far as your threads at the back, depending on how thick your fabric is. You may or may not be able to cross your threads across the back of the D at the back or whichever letter you're doing. You may. You may or may not be able to cross them. If you can see it really clearly from the front than I'd like, say, I want to cross over to the to the side of the D here instead of just crossing from this side to the side across the back. Then I would actually we've my thread up and around through these other stitches and then come out down here. And that's a really good way to make sure that you're not having as many threads visible as possible. That's also another reason why it's a better idea to use fewer strands and wrap more times than it is to use more strands, cause more strands is gonna be more visible from the front, depending on your fabric. Some cottons and stuff like that are thick enough that you're not going to see any threads showing through from the back at all. If you have these likes are open gap areas, yeah, so I'm gonna keep going with this and I will show you what that looks like. A the end. And then we'll get onto the rest of the wreath. All right, And there we go, finished so you can see how the colors all kind of blend into each other. I just love the texture of French. No, it's like I think it's so so pretty. Um, because colonial knots to tend to be a bit tighter likely do have a nice texture, but I like I like sort of the puffiness of French knows. I think they're just super pretty. So as you can see all the three colors air blending, it looks really pretty. And like I said before, if you want to make sort of more distinct lines between the colors totally fine or if you want todo all one color totally fine, it's your project. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna move on to stitching the reef and I'll show you how to do that, and we'll be back in a moment. 5. Stitching the Wreath: All right, So in this tutorial, I'm gonna be going over how to actually work the reefs. If you pull out your stitching map, this is when this comes in quite handy now that we've finished with the French knots. So as you can see here, I've just putting knots down on the pattern because it depends on whether you want to use French knots or the colonial nuts is either one is up to you and again, Like I said, if you want to do this all in straight stitch and actually stick shows lines totally fine, obviously you'll be placing whichever letter you're gonna be doing. Where the D is that when you're tracing the pattern? But yeah, so I mean, it's up to you. That's the nice thing about embroider. It's really, really flexible toe what you want to do. So for this one, what we're gonna be doing is we're gonna be doing the wreaths in back stitch. We're gonna be doing these little branches that come off the stems in back stitches. Well, and they were going to be doing Is this change such but actually detached chain stitch? I've covered this in a previous class, but I'll show you again so you can actually do this wreath stem as well in, say, split stitch or stem stitch. I'm choosing back stitch. Just because there are is there are a bunch of others to just coming off of it, and it's just gonna be a little bit simpler toe work. But if you do want to use another type of stitch, feel free again to your project. You get to make the choices. So again we're going back stitch for the wreath except for the stems and then detach chains such for these little Leafs coming off. And it's all gonna be worked in the same shade of green. You can use different colors if you want, like do the wreath first, and then do the rest of it in a different color. Totally fine. Let's get away there. So again got my thread two strands. This time I'm using my embroidery needle. This is the number six needle. Two strands, not at the end. So does it really matter where you start along your strand? I'm gonna start up here. So her back stitch. I always go forward once and then and then you do the actual back part of the stitch, which is why it's called Beck stick. So for Becks that you are wanting to go back into the same hole as much as you can. That was a nice, continuous line. And once you hit, say you're where your stems are attaching or where your little side lease were attaching, it's best to try and get your back stitch exactly in that junction, because it's gonna make doing your next ditch your other stitches easier hopes the needle fell out, and I'll show you what I mean by that. All right, so for your first attached chains, such trying to turn it around this way to make it easier to see. So you're gonna come up that whole the end of the stick shaker, and with a tach chain, you're making a loop. You're gonna hold it down with some you're making a bit of a loop. This might be tricky because the threat might get caught on your bolt if you're doing it starting at the top like I am. But just be aware of that, you could move that out of the way. So you're going back down the same hole is also coming up and then going down the same hole . But you're basically creating a loop. You know, pull slowly again. You don't want to pull your threads too hard too fast because that's a really easy way to make. A Not so you got your loop here. And what we're gonna be doing is doing a little catching stitch here like that. And then you go down on the other side of that caught loop. Tanker it. It's It's pretty much all the restored, detached chain such I'm gonna dio more back stitches. So as you can see in the pattern, couple more stitches. And then there's this branch coming off here the branches a little bit before the detached chain stitch. So I'm actually gonna do the branch first, and then do the detached chain such with any of these little stitches, you can move them around and, um, space him out differently if you want. So again, we're going back down into that beginning hole of the detached chain coming up, and they were gonna do the branch. If you're not sure about any of these stitches, you can always do the hand murdering fundamentals class because some of these are actually covered in that one. If you want some practice going into this little forked one of here, come back down to the same juncture, go back down to the same juncture, so it's pretty much all back. Such is always trying to go back down to the sitch. Previous is to give that nice sort of seamless look, as opposed to running stitch where it has gaps between it on purpose there. So I'm gonna break into two stitches and again with these little branches, you could make them as long or a short or changes shape if you like. Nothing is set in stone. All right, so now I'm gonna jump back down. So my next such is gonna go down back into this one here to catch, to continue this wreath line, and then I'm going to do the next attached chain stitch. Make again. Come up that whole. Okay, make a loop. Go back down the same hole. If it helps, you can hold the red down with your thumb before you fully close the loop. I don't want to catch Catch it by putting us a little anchoring stitch in the point of your little leaf there. What? You don't want to pull these two just too tight cause in your leaf your little leafs that she's gonna your detached chains. Such is going Teoh gonna be two straight. That is not gonna have that nice bend in it. So you do want to not pull crazy tight and I'll just do one more detached chains such and then you can continue on from there. So again, like I said, he just move around the placement of these a little bit as you need. I always do find it easier doing the detached chain with them facing away from me, though, and down come back up where you want your point to be. Make sure it was going through your loop and back down. Catch it. So I'm going to keep working my way around the wreath doing this for anchoring off your threads. As I've said in other tutorials, Sama sided with the French knots. You can has run your thread underneath a couple of stitches, one direction, then back another direction entire tiny little not and and anchor it there or even, just like running back and forth once or twice, and then just cut your thread cause it's gone sort of enough directions that it's gonna have sort of block itself in place. So whichever way works for you, same as the French knots. That's how I anchored the threads of the back was I ran them through other stitches and and just cut the threads. So I'm gonna keep going with this and I will come back when I'm finished. 6. Final Knots: all right. So, as you can see, I finished up my stitching here. So I've done the back stitch the back. Such is here and then the detached chain stitch have gone all the way around. And now I'm gonna be doing the French knots. So, as I said before, I didn't specifically draw these on. But even you totally can. You can do them. As for the pattern, you could just get your friction pin and mark them on whatever you like. So this is totally up to you. So I've got two colors I'm gonna be using for these French knots. I've got this lovely kind of like light raspberry colors. 9 61 And I got more of a coral color. 3712 So I'm gonna be mixing these up, so I'm gonna be doing some of them in the coral, some of them in the in the the pink and putting them all sort of blended together. What thing you can do to is you can actually blend two colors in one strand. If you really want to get fancy on us, you can also get really cool variegated threads like the M. C. s Cloris Threads is a whole bunch of different kinds of variegated threads, meaning the color changes. So they're actually really super cool Teoh to do French knots with because you're doing them one at a time and so that the color gradation will slowly start to change as you work your knots, which is really cool that you're doing a whole series of them like this. So for this one, I'm going to start down here, these little ones here and I'm just gonna randomly placed some of gonna gonna goto. Not in my thread. I'm using back to the milliners needle as opposed to embroidery Needle. Like I said again, you can try the embroidery needle, but you may find that the wider I does tend to blow it apart a little bit, like making a little bit wider than you would like again. This holding that tension fandom. I'm just gonna be scattering these around so you may find something like this happens where your flaws gets a little bit tangled up around something and then you're not looks like it might blow apart. So there's two ways to fix this. You can either try and continue with your not and make them get it all nice and tight again . Or you can unthreatened your thread and carefully feed it back up through there. Not like, make sure you're pulling on the right end of the thread and then just start. You're not again. This one. I'm gonna attempt to just get it back in place. Yeah, like that. So I was going to keep going with this. As you can see, there are 1234567 little stems coming up of various sizes and various amounts of the of the French knots. You can see the bigger stems have more French knots, but again, it's totally up to you can put his fewer as many on as you like. You could fill this whole thing with knots if he really wanted to. So I'm going to keep going with this. I'm starting with this sort of more watermelon color, and then I'm gonna go to the coral color. I'm gonna do one color at a time, and I will see you back when this is done. All right, from here we go. That's finished. So, as you can see, the to floss colors. I chose the pink and the coral color. There's kind of subtle when you look at them in the as French knots. But that's kind of what I was aiming for was kind of a subtle color change between the two different ones. If you like, you can, of course, change the colors up and make them or contrast you're at and other colors. You don't have to disuse, too. You can just use one. You can use as many as you like. Like I said, this is your project. So I mean, I'm just teaching you these techniques. Then you can kind of run with them and, uh, and play with them. So this is your finished project here. If you're wanting to finish off the back, then I would recommend looking at that hand embroidery fundamentals class. There is a lesson in there about how to finish off the back of your hoop, so basically you end up talking everything in and then covering the back of it with a piece of felt and stitching that down. So it ends up being a perfect little things you can hang or gift. These make really, really awesome gifts because they don't take that long to stitch up. So they do make really, really nice gifts. And of course you like. I said, you can make it bigger and then putting the whole word and things like that. So I hope you enjoyed your project. 7. Final Words: thanks so much for joining in the class. I hope you enjoyed making your cute little who project. I would love to see what you ended up with and see what colors you chose for yours. So please do post pictures in the class Project gallery below. You can create your own project and add in pictures. And I would really, really enjoy seeing what you did. If you have any questions or comments, of course. I'm happy to answer them for you. Happy stitching.