Transcripts
1. Introduction to Creating Resin Domed Brooches: Have you ever wanted to turn your digital illustrations into fantastic in roaches? Then this is the class for you. In this class, I will take you step-by-step through the entire project. We will start with the print and cut of your pieces. We will then go over resonance. I will show you how to apply resin properly and all of the little tips and tricks that I've learned along the way. So if you're looking to pad out your artistic skill set and try something new and exciting. Join us, and we'll make some great pins together. Buh-bye.
2. Lesson 1: Choosing Designs and Preparing to Print: Hello and welcome to the first lesson on how to turn your illustrations into lovely brooches to give cell or keep for yourself. The first thing you're going to want to do is to select or create a few designs that you would like to turn into pins. Here I have a small selection of flowers. These designs are more complex than most of my pins. And because I'm using a cricket machine, it's much easier to make these intricate cuts. If you are going to be hand cutting these, I would recommend starting with a simpler cut, silhouette just because it will be way easier for you. And a lot less frustrating. Simpler designs like my core deepen design here, these are a lot easier cut if you're cutting by hand. It also takes your machine less time to cut them. And there's a little less effort that you need to give these kinds of pins whenever you enter the resin phase as well. Another key factor when choosing your designs is dimensions of your project. When you're working with shrink film, keep in mind, especially if you're using the graphics brand, it's going to shrink by 50 percent, almost 50%. So you want to choose a nice large design at a high DPI. This moth pin here is about five inches by 3.5 and it was drawn at 600 DPI. So when this gets printed out through the printing process, I will be able to shrink it down enough so that I can take into consideration the additional shrinking that happens with the shrink film. So I wind up with a nice maybe three inch brooch. So in summary, you want to take into consideration the complexity of the cut and the size of your original artwork before you begin prepping it for printing and cutting. All right, so once you've decided which design you want to start with your pin, you're going to want to isolate it and get it set up on its own document or prepare it for printing and cutting. One thing that is very important in this phase is to remember that when the plastic shrinks, the color is going to intensify. So when you're printing it out, you're actually going to want to add a layer over top of your pin design. I go ahead and make mine screen, and then I fill it in with the white bucket tool, which you'll see me here do here in a minute. And once you have your screen layer all in white over that, want to bring it down to about maybe 30 ish percent, 30 to 40 ish percent. And what this does is it makes the, your printer print a little bit lighter. So when all of those colors cells shrink down together, they will be more close to your original design rather than turning out way too dark and being very unpleasant. So this is a trick a lot of artists do. They put a screen layer over top and just set it to around somewhere between 30 and 40 percent. You may have to finagle it to your liking. But this is the number one important trick when setting up to print and cut. For a quick example, Here's my lightened image on the screen and then my actual finished product. You can see that the pin itself is quite a bit darker than what the images on the screen. The other important thing to note here is that I allow my cutting machine to cut right up to the edge. I don't put a border around my pin purchase. If you would like a border around your pin brooches, you will need to also set that up before you go to print and cut. Obviously, once you have everything set up to your liking, then just go ahead and save it as a JPEG and get ready to print it. So that's it for this lesson and the next lesson, we will begin on the Brinton cut process. I'll give you all the specific information for that, all the cuts settings and everything, and we will get started on these branches. Thank you for joining us and come back for the next one. Thank you. Bye bye.
3. Lesson 2: Preparing and Printing your Designs in Cricut Design Space: Hello everyone and welcome to Lesson 2 of turning your original illustrations into approaches. In the last lesson, we chose our designs and prep them for the printing process. This lesson in particular will focus exclusively on exporting your designs into the cricket design space to use the print and cut feature. If you are planning to hand cut your designs, you may still want to skim this lesson as there's a few bits of information that you might still find helpful for you using your scissors or exacto knife. So with that out of the way, let us go ahead and begin. Okay, at this point we're going to load up the cricket design space and we are going to need to upload the JPEG image that we saved in the last lesson. If you forgot to save the JPEG image, you can stop this and go back now and just save it and come back. So here I am uploading my core group InDesign, and I'm going to choose complex. Even though it looks simple, it's still can't consider complex. The next thing is to select the ever get to a race. This is going to create your cut lines. I like to go ahead and bump up the tolerance as high as I can get it just because I feel like a creates better cuts that way. You can do your own thing if you want to. Then I give everything a nice check. Make sure everything's nice and clean. Before clicking that Okay button. After you've accepted it, you'll want to choose the print, then cut option and go ahead and click. Okay. Then we're going to select our design. Select it, yes, and go ahead and make it. And it's going to pop up real huge in a new document. And the reason why it shows up so gigantic is because we did save it at that really high resolution, the really high DPI, so that we have a lot of wiggle room to play around with. And also it's just nicer to print at a higher DPI. Things just come out nicer. So right now this core good design is about eight inches wide, a little more than that. And even if we printed this out this way and it shrank down, it would still be four inches wide, which is way too large for a brooch. It's more like we maybe want this to actually be four inches wide in the print, so it'll, it'll shrink down to about two inches wide. So we're gonna go ahead and grab the corner and start shrinking it down to about where we want it, which I think I chose was about 4.5 inches. It will really be your call how large you want your approaches to be. But just keep in mind that this graphic shrink film is going to shrink about 50 percent. Sometimes, maybe even a little more or maybe a little bit less. So just always have that in the back of your mind. Now I'm going to pause real quick here just to give you a glimpse of the final product, I did end up choosing about three inches to cut. And this shrank down to about 1.5 inches wide. And that is a nice size brooch in my opinion, for this design anyway. So once you have your print size figured out, then it's time to try to jam as many of these little guys as you can in that six by nine limited space that cricket gives you. So I'll just go ahead and fast-forward through the tedious process of trying to fit in as many pins as you can per page. Once you have everything all set up, you're going to want to go ahead and select each individual little piece and be sure that they're all attached together. This is important so that the cricket machine will understand that it needs to cut out every single one of those on one sheet. If you don't attach them, cricket is going to try to print and cut them on separate individual sheets. I know it doesn't make sense, but that's what it does. Once you are ready to go, you're going to want to hit that make button. And if you did everything correctly, all of your little pieces are gonna show up inside the nice black box. And that is good to go. That is going to cut everything just how you want it. So as long as everything looks correct here, go ahead and click that Continue button. So the next step is to load your printer with the graphic shrink film and get everything ready to go. Also keep in mind that the graphic shrink film is printable on both sides. So you don't need to worry about what side you have facing up in your printer. After you are ready to go, the next step is to go ahead and click Send to printer. Now, once you click send to printer, there's going to be a little dialog box pop up and I will guide you through that. The first thing you wanna do here is unchecked at bleed and then go ahead and click, Use system dialogue. You want to use the system dialogue which will come pop up that beneath your window so that you can set your own printing standards. And for this, you're going to want to go ahead and choose fast printing on plain paper because you really don't want any extra ink in there. It'll just make your pins all the more darker whenever they shrink. And here we are with a shot of the car keys fresh out of the printer. At this point, you're going to want to go ahead and leave your print set for a couple minutes just to make sure that the ink gets nice and dry before you put it in your cricket machine. Some people have reported that they're Incas much too little bit. But I'm using the Canon, picks my pro 100 and I've never experienced this. So if you use the same printers me, you're probably good to go. All that being said, I am going to actually clip this lesson right here. And we're going to get to the cutting part in lesson 3 because I realized this has gone on a little too long, probably. So, stay tuned and I will see you in the next lesson. Have a great day. Buh-bye.
4. Lesson 3: Cutting your Designs with the Cricut: Hello and welcome back to lesson number 3 on how to turn your illustrations in Japan designs. Let's go ahead and get started. In the last lesson we left off in the printing process at right after we had printed our designs and we were waiting for them to dry. Now, in this lesson, we are going to pick up right where we left off. And we are going to put these into the cricket and get them cut out. When cutting graphic shrink film, you're going to want to select acetate. I already have it in my favorite materials area, but you will need to search for it under the plastics. You'll want to select that. Then go ahead and select more under the pressures are for this project, I'm going to strongly suggest that you loaded onto the crickets purple strong grip cutting mat. I would not recommend using the blue normal Grip matt unless it's absolutely brand new because I did have an incident where I used an older regular grip mat and pieces of my design popped up during the cutting process and then I ruined a bunch of pieces that way. So I definitely recommend the strong grip Matt. Also, be sure to seal it down really well on your cutting mat just to be safe. At this point, you're going to load your cricket machine as usual and start the cutting process. Okay, now here's the next really important step. You're going to let your cricket do its first cut as normal. But when it's done and it wants to be unloaded, instead of unloading it, do not unload it. You are going to hit the cricket cut button one more time and it is going to pull it through and cut it a second time. You definitely need to cut a second time to get it to cut through. By not unloading and going directly into that second cut. It ensures that the machine is going to cut on the very exact lines that it just cut on. So you don't have any weird wonky edges or anything like that. Now when you unload it, you're going to want to place your mat and face down and peel the mat off. And you're going to want to be extra careful because there's almost always some little bits of plastic still sticking to things. And you're gonna wanna make sure that it doesn't tear at all. I also want to point out that sometimes you get a really great cut like on these butterflies. But then on the Carnegies, on the white paper, I had to take an exacto knife to help release them completely from the plastic. And you can watch me do this here. You basically just want to take an exacto knife and find an area where it's already punched out really well and just gently slide it along the edges just to give it a little boost. Sometimes you have to do this. I find that the the white graphics shrink film is maybe a little more, I guess, tougher, I guess I could say. And maybe the clear one is easier to cut. It's hard to say. And then another thing is anytime you're cutting out these kinds of things, depending upon the age of your blade, could have an effect on how easy they are going to pop out of the plastic film. But just take your time with this. Be careful. And you always want to point the blade away from you so you don't accidentally tear your image or make a cut in it. And here you can see I was able to finally the cornea out of there. And sometimes they have a little bit of edges on them, but don't worry too much about that. There you go. And here I have the cortisol cut out from their plastic sheet. And they do have a little bit of stuff around the edges, but don't worry about that at this point. I also wanted to point out that on the back you can see a little bit of the film the, that allows it to take the ink jet is peeling up a little bit. But at this point, I don't really want you to worry about it. It's just something natural that happens when you have to take the exact dough knife and cut it. And even sometimes your cricket will produce those as well. So don't worry about them right now. All right, so we'll end this lesson here for now. And in the next lesson we will start on the process of baking these. And then we will go through the process of cleaning them up. Those little bits I told you not to worry about yet. All right, thank you for watching and I will see you in the next lesson. Have a great day. Bye bye.
5. Lesson 4: Baking and Sanding your Pieces: Hello and welcome back to Lesson 4 on how to turn your illustrations into lovely purchases. In the last lesson, we left off with having all of our pieces cut out from our graphics shrink film. And now we're gonna go ahead and bake them today. To prepare for the baking process, you are going to want to review your chosen shrink films instructions for the graphics brand shrink film that I use. You preheat your oven between 300 and 350 degrees, or 149 to 177 Celsius. For those of you not in the United States. As per the instructions, you are going to want to line your metal baking tray with parchment paper. And I would recommend doing these in small batches of no more than three at a time. Your oven is ready, slide them in and time them for about two minutes. You will, however, want to keep an eye on them while they bake so you can pull them out if they finish ahead of time. Also, you're going to have to pardon my dirty oven window. Sorry. As the pieces begin to heat up, they will start shrinking and curling upwards. You will know they are done. When they flattened back down again. When they are done, pull them out and stick them on the counter and then immediately put a book on top of them. The book ensures that they will cool off nice and flat. So yes, you can get a little more use out of those old art history books. So here we have the core geese after they have finished baking, they will have a little bit of rough edges, but this is fine as we will take care of that later. You will also notice that they have a little bit of texture on top of them. And this is also okay because ultimately it will help the resin cling to these better. Though the next phase is simply to take a nail file and use that to get all the little rough edge bits off. Really, you're just gonna say, um, these like you're filing that, just have your nails. It's pretty easy. And it can be a little bit tedious, but you can watch YouTube videos while you do it. Do take your time however, and, uh, be sure not to accidentally sand the tops at all. And you'd like because then you'll just ruin your printed design. After you have finished cleaning up your edges and drawbacks, then you are ready to get started on the resident process. At this point, I'm going to stop this video here and we will pick up the beginning of the resin process in the next lesson. Thank you for watching and I hope to see you in the next lesson. Thank you, buh-bye.
6. Lesson 5: Supplies Needed to Resin Dome: Hello everyone and welcome to lesson 5 on how to turn your illustrations into wonderful britches. Today's lesson is going to largely focus on getting your workspace together to work with resin and collecting all the tools you need before you mix up that resin. If you already have experience with resin and this is not new to you, you might be able to just skip this lesson today, but, you know, there could always be some helpful information in here if you decide to watch it anyway. Alright, so let's get started and go over this menagerie of tools you're going to need. The first important tool you're going to need is a silicon mat that you see me playing around with here. They're flexible. Resin does not stick to it, so you can reuse it over and over again. The other important thing is it protects your workspace. Anything you get resonance will be ruined. So be sure to keep that in mind before you start working with resonant. Do not get it on anything that you are attached to. This next tool is optional, but there is a silicon domain resident mat. This has little triangles on it that will keep your pieces elevated so any excess resin will drip off and then you could just flick it off like I did there. I call this one optional because you don't really need it and I will explain more why in later videos. The next important thing you're going to need is a pair of nitro gloves that will protect your hands while you are working with resin. Resin is toxic, so it's better that you don't get it on your skin. If you're not allergic to latex, you can also use latex glove. Then you're also going to need something to stir your resonant. They are going to need to have measurements on the side because you need to measure your resin and you can use plastic or silicon. I prefer to use the silicon mixing cups because they are reusable and they will have less impact on the environment. And ultimately they wind up a lot less expensive than buying these toss away plastic cups. After you poured your resin into your measuring cups, you're going to need to be able to stir the two components together. And this is where a nice silicon stir stick comes in handy. Again, because it's coded in silicon, you can continue to reuse it until it basically falls apart. You can of course, just use your basic craft sticks as well, but I prefer the reusable product. Aside from the stir stick, you are also going to want a handful of toothpicks. And the toothpicks really are going to be your resin application tool. Now let's get down to actually talking about the resin, which is of course the star of the show art resin is a two-part epoxy doming resin. It cures crystal clear and has minimal bubble issues. This is my preferred resonant this time because of the exceptional clarity that you get. Also, it, There's really hard and strong. And I like that as well. You are, of course, welcome to try any sort of domain resin that you like. But this is what I am personally going to be using for this lesson. Now with 2-part epoxy resins to keep the bubbles out of your pieces. You are also going to need a little heat gun. This is just a little inexpensive crafting heat gun that I got. And it suits the purpose pretty well. I think it was under $15. Now, once your pieces are resonant, you're going to need some plastics to shield your finished pieces from any dust. You can find any sort of plastics like things you got from the bakery, tins out of cookies, whatever, any sort of plastics that you can put over your finished products will work. It is of course, super important to keep that dust off of these projects while they cure. And last but not least, I want to discuss a respirator masks so you are protecting your lungs while you do this it good respirator mask will have two areas with removable filters and it will protect you from food, fumes and dust when you're sanding and other nonsense. It's just really good, especially if you're prone to migraines and stuff. It will keep you safe while you're working on these projects. So you will have many more years to come. Being able to work on art is basically protect yourself peeps. So that is it for this lesson. And the reason why I wanted to go over the tools first before we got into it is because you really need to have everything set up and ready to go before you even mix that resin because you have a limited amount of time to work with that resident. So if you are prepared ahead of time, there's less stress and less stress equals better projects. So that's it for now. And in the next lesson, we will prep our workspace and get down to business. Have a great day. Bye-bye.
7. Lesson 6: Prepping your Workspace and Shrink Film Pieces: Hello and welcome to lesson 6 on turning your illustrations into approaches. This lesson, we are going to prepare our workspace and get our projects ready to take that resin. The first thing you're going to want to do is to make sure your work surface is free of any dust or any other debris. I usually take some tape here and just clean off my work surface and really tried to remove as much dust as possible because it really is your worst enemy in this. I finish with a little spritz of n dust here just to make sure that I really have all the dust out of the way. So next, I'm going to prep my pieces by just taking a little piece of packing tape here. And I'm going to try to cut it to size. And what I'm going to do is I'm going to fix the back of the piece to the sticky side of the tape. There's a reason why I do this because if you use the doming tray and you just let the excess spill over the sides. You're going to wind up with drips on the backs of your pieces. Now, you can still do it that way and still get a quality product. But I have found that it saves time and makes a less of a mess. If you take the BAX to keep them sealed away from receiving any resin whatsoever, sometimes they will still get a little bit of resin underneath there. But it's nothing that requires any knife work or sanding. After I've attached the tape to all my pieces, I flip them over and take a bone folder and just tried to burnish in that the tape onto the backs just to ensure that if there is going to be a little bit of resin, it'll just be a tiny thin layer. And that is going to be it for this lesson. I know you all are probably anxious to get to applying the resin and we will definitely be doing that in the next lesson. So thank you for tuning in for this short little lesson. And I will see you next time. Thank you. Buh-bye.
8. Lesson 7: Using Resin and Applying the Resi: Hello everyone, welcome to lesson 7, and we are now finally getting to the point where we are going to apply resin to our brooches. I would, of course, play the Hallelujah chorus if it were not a copyright infringement. And now, without further ado, let's go ahead and measure up some resin. With these measuring cups. It is a little bit difficult to read the measuring on the side. So I like to take marker and measure off where my fill lines are going to be for this resident for with art resin resin, you are using equal parts resin and equal parts hardener. So I am going to pour the resin in one cup and the hardener into the second cup. Now while you are simply measuring the resin, you do not need to worry about timing. The only thing, time you need to worry about timing is when you actually mix the two elements together. So take your time with this and get it right. Because if you don't have it, perfect. If you have a little too much of the resin or little too much of the hardener, then your resin will not cure properly. And I'm going to give it one last double-check to make sure that I have these as equal as possible. Once you are sure of your measurements, you are ready to pour the hardener into the resin. At this point when the hardener meets the resin, this is where your timing comes into consideration. With art resin, you have about 45 minutes of work time, which is plenty. Don't be too worried, but do take into consideration that you will need to work quickly at this point. After you've poured in all of the hardener, it's time to stir. Art resin wants you to stir for total three minutes. And while you are stirring, you are to scrape the sides of your strcopy to make sure that everything gets combined. If there's any pieces that are not combined, any parts of the resin, then you're going to have like some pieces that are not going to cure properly. So you do want to make sure that you stir this very well. Again, don't forget to scrape the sides and to stir it for a total of three minutes. You are going to get some bubbles and that's okay. They will come out later. Just be sure you mix these two parts thoroughly. After everything is stirred, it is time to start applying the resin. Here. I've taken my stir stick and I've just added a little dollop of it. One thing to be careful of is when you are getting your resin out of your cup, do not scrape the sides again after mixing. If there's anything that is unmixed, it will come off in there and it will cause your resin not to cure. After you've added enough resin or you think you have, go ahead and take your toothpick and just start shoving the resin around all the way to the edge. Make sure you get everything really nice and covered. And get a nice glossy little dome on that thing. And I'll go ahead and throw in another little bit of footage of the resin application just so you have more than a few seconds of the actual application to look at. Since I always find it's helpful just to watch the artist at work. So here you go. After you have a few pieces with residue on it, it's time to break out that heat gun. Here. I'm using my heat gun on my first piece to liquefy the resonance a little bit which draws those bubbles up to the surface and makes them pop. You will need to do this multiple times during the 45-minute work time period with the resin. So what I like to do is finish up a couple of them, apply the heat gun, finish up a couple more, apply the heat gun again, and just keep on doing that over and over again until you get all your pieces covered. I also want to mention that occasionally you'll get a little bit of spillage like I have here between the antenna and the weighing of this moth. It really isn't a big deal. Just take your toothpick and try to clean out as much as you can have it and the rest of it, we'll take care of it after it's had its 24-hour cure. Finally, you're going to want to cover those bad boys up with all your plastics you've been saving because dust is your enemy. Also, at any point during the 45-minute workable period, you can also hit those with the heat gun again, if you happen to notice any bubbles. All right, that is it for the resin application lesson. You are going to leave those now to sit for a good 24 hours at then we will pick it up in the next lesson. Thank you for watching. Bye bye.
9. Lesson 8: Trimming Errant Resin.: Hello everyone. Welcome to lesson 7 on turning your illustrations into brooches. Today's lesson is going to pick up after the 24-hour care point of your resume. After caring for 24 hours, the resin will be firm to the touch, but it will have a little bit of flexibility which allows you to trim many edges like this piece here that had a little bit of a resin runoff. At this point, you're going to want to go ahead and peel off all of your tape backings and see what pieces are going to be need to be trimmed in which don't need to trim. If there's any resin on the back, like in here. It's Resident like that when it's really flat, needs nothing done to it. When we apply resin to the Bax to put the pin backs on, it will seem like that little accident didn't even happen. For pieces that need a little bit of trimming. You're going to want to take an exacto knife and just simply cut the pieces off. It's really that simple. And while the resin is still flexible, It's really easy just to kind of pull these off. Actually. I should also mention that it's a good idea to do this cutting on pieces of scrap wood or whatever you have lying around that you don't care about that way. You don't like Scratch of your desk or whatever. I also want to mention that if you use doming tray, you are most likely going to wind up with large resin drips on the backs of your pieces. And this requires more effort to remove than the thinner pieces when you use the tape. As you can see here, it's a lot more difficult to remove these larger chunks of resin than it is just to simply cut them off if you use the tape method. And even after you get the main bulk of the lump cut off, you will still need to sand and drum roll back. So my recommendation is save yourself a lot of fuss and misery and just use the tape method that I explained in the previous lessons. So that is it for this short little lesson. And we will start again after our pieces have a 48 hour cure time. And we will do our finished trimming and add the pin backs. So I will see you in the next lesson. Thank you for watching. Bye bye.
10. Lesson 9: Attaching the Pin Backs: Hello everyone. Welcome back. This is lesson 9 on how to turn your illustrations into purchase. In today's lesson, we are picking up where the approaches have cared for 48 hours. And we're going to take just a little nail file and we're going to double-check and make sure that all of our trims around the edges that we did are nice and smooth. It doesn't really take that much effort. You just have to be careful not to accidentally scratch up the top surface. It doesn't matter so much if you scratch up a bottom because we will be putting resident on that and attaching the pin backs. When checking the backs, you want to make sure that they are nice and smooth, that there was any residents village like this one. If you have a little bit of a raised edge like in this one right here, you might want to just kind of sand down that edge a little bit so it is easier for the resin to level off. The next thing you wanna do is get out your selected pin backs. Now you're going to want to actually go through and check and make sure each one of these little pin backs are functional. You want to turn it, makes sure that the that the pin part will pop out and that everything is functional. It really, really stinks to resin or pin back on that is broken. So you want to avoid that. The next step after this is to go ahead and mix up some resin and start applying them to your pindex. If you need a little refresher on mixing up the resins, you'll want to go back and review Lesson 7. One important thing to note here when you are doing the pin backs is you really do not want to dome this resin. You want it to be very thin because any thickness of your resin will seep into your pin backs and caused them to get stuck. And basically you will break them. So you just want to apply a very thin coat of resin just enough that the pin backs can set in there without the resin wicking up through the apparatus and clogging the little wheelie gear thing that's on there. I guess maybe it would be the class, but actually, I'm not quite sure what the specific parts of brooch backs are called. You are always better off to have to apply a little more resin than to have to remove resin because it is sticky and messy. Alright, so here I am. I'm going to be getting ready to apply a pin back. One thing I like to do is to make sure that the little thumb tab that helps you turn it is facing directly up just so it doesn't encourage any resin to get into the pin back. And then I simply drop the pin back on there and then you can use your finger to move it around. I also like to take a clean toothpick, just kind of gently nudge it into position. You can see that the resin has pulled up nicely around this pin back, but it's not overflowing. So this this amount of resin on the back here is just enough to attach the pin back. Nice and solid, but it won't get it up into the works. So at this point you're just going to want to continue applying a small amount of resin to the backs and just attaching those Pindex. When you are done with them, go ahead and set them up on a doming tray and put your protective plastic over them. Another important thing is even though that the resin layer is going to be really thin on these, you will get me to get out your heat gun and pop some bubbles from time to time, just like you did whenever you don't. The tops. All right, so now after the banks have cured for a good 24 to 48 hours, you're going to want to go ahead and double check and make sure that all of your brooch the findings are working. I actually had one that got stuck. You can see it right there. A little bit of resin whipped up and it made the class, but not want to turn. What you're going to want to do in these situations is just take an exacto knife and scrape off the little piece of resin that's causing the device not to turn. It shouldn't take too much effort in here, I think you can see the piece of resin I got off and then giving a little shove. Now, it seems to be working fine. This is what you can do if you just have a little tiny piece of resonance stuck. If they're really, really stuck in there, you might have to completely pry them out and then put a little bit of dapper resident in there and stick in other pin back back in there. All right, At this point, you should have some finished approaches. Yeah. So go ahead and give yourself a nice pat on the back for doing such a great job. And you should have some lovely merchants to admire. All right, so that pretty much wraps up this class on turning your illustrations into pin purchase. Thank you for going on this journey with me and please be sure to check out the rest of my classes. Thank you. Have a great day. Bye-bye.
Amy Stoddard, Amy Illustrates
