How to Draft a Bodice Sloper in Adobe Illustrator | Casey Sibley | Skillshare

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How to Draft a Bodice Sloper in Adobe Illustrator

teacher avatar Casey Sibley, Pattern Designer, Artist, Maker

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

12 Lessons (1h 53m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Take Your Measurements

    • 3. Create a New Document

    • 4. Draft the Back Bodice

    • 5. Draft the Front Bodice

    • 6. Final Pattern Outline and Seam Allowances

    • 7. Printing: Create Tiled Sheets

    • 8. Printing: Create Sheet Alignment Guides

    • 9. Print the Pattern

    • 10. Cut + Sew the Sloper

    • 11. My Finished Sloper Notes

    • 12. Thank You!!

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About This Class

If you love sewing your own clothes and have been wanting to learn how to draft your own sloper, I'm here to help!

In this class, I'm walking you through my workflow for drafting a bodice sloper on a computer using the Adobe Illustrator design program. I’ll show you how to take your own body measurements and draft a custom sloper pattern from scratch with those measurements. Then we'll set up a printing template so that you can create a tiled sheet PDF pattern to print from home or with a copyshop.

A measurements worksheet is available in the class project section.

This is a great place to start if you want to start drafting and printing your own custom-fit sewing patterns at home. Drafting in Adobe Illustrator allows you to get very precise measurements and make changes quickly without wasting paper or needing a huge space to spread out while working. This also means that you can design new patterns easily by modifying your sloper block digitally.

If you don't have Adobe Illustrator, you can get a free 7 day trial here:

So what is a sloper?

Simply put, a sloper is a very basic, close-fitting garment without any design details that is constructed to your exact measurements. 

A sloper can be used primarily in two ways:

  1. To evaluate the fit of existing patterns by comparing them to your custom sloper to identify potential fit alterations.
  2. As a base pattern--or block--for designing your own sewing patterns.

A sloper is another tool in your garment sewing and designing toolbox (and is not a necessarily a finished garment).

Who is this class for?

This class is ideal for intermediate to experienced home sewers who want to draft and print their own bodice sloper pattern using Adobe Illustrator as a drafting tool. You also need a basic understanding of garment construction, as that will not be taught in this class.

We won’t be drafting skirt, pant, or sleeve slopers in this class, just the bodice from the waist up to give you a feel for pattern drafting in Illustrator.

Who is this class NOT for?

This class is not ideal for those completely new to sewing, sewers who have no desire to draft or alter patterns, or sewers who prefer analog methods of pattern drafting. 

Additionally, you don't have to create a custom sloper from scratch at all! Many pattern companies offer sloper patterns that you can use in the same way. Just search for "bodice sloper pattern" online and you'll find many to choose from.

Will you teach me how to sew and assess the fit of my sloper?

No. This class is not a comprehensive overview of slopers, fitting principles, or sewing techniques. I won't be showing any sewing steps, only how to draft and cut out the sloper pattern. My primary goal with this class is to teach you how to draft a pattern in Adobe Illustrator.

I’ll be showing you one method of taking your measurements and translating those measurements into a bodice sloper. There are many different ways to do this (and I encourage you to explore many resources on this topic). Today I’m showing you the methods that have worked for me.

What if I don't know how to use Adobe Illustrator?

Experience with Adobe Illustrator is useful, but not crucial, as I’ll be walking you through each step in detail as we move through drafting the sloper. And we'll only be learning the tools required for this drafting exercise.

You can get a free 7 day trial of Illustrator here:



The following resources have been especially helpful to me for pattern drafting and addressing fitting issues:

  • Christopher Sartorial Sloper series on YouTube
  • Made to Sew on YouTube
  • Alexandra Morgan on YouTube

And I have a Pinterest board where I save some of my favorite online sewing and fitting resources here:

Your local library is also an excellent FREE resource for fitting and sewing books! I am always amazed at the books that are available, and if they don't have the book I am looking for, they can get it for me. The book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong is a great resource and I was able to request it from my local library.


You can learn more about me and my business, Pattern Scout, by going to and following along on Instagram @patternscout. You can also check out my other Skillshare classes by clicking on my profile photo!

(all music by Podington Bear)

Meet Your Teacher

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Casey Sibley

Pattern Designer, Artist, Maker


Hi! My name is Casey Sibley, and I'm a designer in Lansing, MI. I used to run a wholesale business selling my line of handmade homegoods and accessories adorned in my original pattern designs to shops across North America. More recently, I've been sewing my heart out and designing women's sewing patterns for home sewers.

Over the years, I've taught myself to grow two businesses from scratch by practicing my craft and learning from others who came before me. I'm here to share what I've learned about sewing my wardrobe, creating pattern collections, and building a line of products.

As a full-time designer and creative business owner, I love the work I get to do every day. If you're starting or growing a creative business with the dream of being your o... See full profile

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1. Introduction: Hi. My name is Casey Simply, and I'm the designer behind Pattern Scout, an indie sewing pattern company specializing in women's sewing patterns. I also write the Pattern Scout Blawg, where I focus on educating and inspiring home sewers to create Hameed wardrobe that they love. I started selling nearly all of my clothing in 2018. I became absolutely obsessed, and in 2019 I started designing selling patterns. I really love the so and I really, really loved to design sewing patterns. It's so much fun. So in this course, I'm gonna show you guys have to create a custom Bata Sloper much like this one. We're going, Teoh, take all of our own measurements. Then we're gonna translate those measurements into a custom fit slow bird that we're gonna draft completely from start to finish. And adobe Illustrator. So one is a Sloper. A Sloper is a very basic, close fitting garment without any design details that is constructed to your exact measurements, and you can use your Sloper primarily in two ways. First, you can use a Sloper as a comparison tool. You can compare it to existing garment patterns to see if you can pinpoint any fit alterations that you might need to make to a specific pattern. You can also use your Sloper as a base pattern or a block for designing your own selling patterns. And that is primarily how I use a Sloper and actually designed this shirt from my own Sloper block. So who is this class for? This class is ideal for intermediate to experienced sewers who want to draft their very own Sloper plot. Using Adobe Illustrator as a drafting tool, We won't be drafting sleeve pant or skirt slippers in this class. Just the bottle Sloper from the waist up Just to give you a feel for drafting using Adobe Illustrator. This class is not ideal for those who are completely new to selling or sewers, who have no desire to draft their own patterns or alter existing patterns. And it's not ideal for those who prefer to draft using analog methods. We're gonna be doing all of the drafting on the computer for this class when it comes to drafting Slope er's and sewing patterns. There are a lot of different ways to do this. I'm just showing you the methods that have worked for me and they are the most comfortable to me, and I encourage you to look around, do a little research on slow pers and fitting and drafting all of that and find a method that works best for you. Hopefully, you'll find this class useful and a great starting point for drafting your own patterns on the computer. That sounds good to you. Join me the next lesson, and I'll show you how to take your measurements and get started. 2. Take Your Measurements: Okay, so now I'm gonna show you how I take my measurements, and I don't have a measurement buddy today, so it's just gonna be me flying solo. So if you don't have anybody to help, you can still take all of these measurements just fine. Although it does help if you do have someone that can help you with someone you trust to get the measurements right. A few things to note. I've got my hair pulled up and out of the way. So that's not in the way of my shoulders when we're doing any of these measurements and I'm wearing a really close fitting mitt top just living in it T shirt just so that I can get very close measurements to my body and make sure that everything is as accurate as possible . And I'm also wearing the bra that I don't really wear again just for accuracy. This would be the brawling were under most of my floating. So that's gonna make my measurements for my Sloper accurate for clothing down the road that I might be making. Okay, so I've got a couple of things. They're gonna help us take our measurements. The first thing is a piece of string. This is just a piece of twine that I had laying around my studio. You could use a piece of ribbon or a piece of elastic. All we're gonna do is tie this around our waist to use as a benchmark for taking some of our vertical measurements. And then, of course, we'll need to take measure. I just got a standard flexible tape measure. This one, I think, is maybe four or five feet long. So yeah, just something very basic like that. And we use those to take all of our measurements. Okay, let's get started. Okay. So the first thing we want to do is tied a string around our waist. Still shouldn't tell. Hit, not too tight, Just kind of comfortably around the waist. And you want tied after natural waist and usually don't have fall in place of the natural waist If you feel like you're having a hard time getting it right at the natural way. So if you don't really know where your natural natural waist is, you can do a little bit to the side. Usually you'll get like a little crease in the side. Here And then you can use that as your natural waist. My natural waist balls about maybe an inch about my belly button. So got a restraining time there. Now we're ready to take our first measurement. Okay, So the first measurement we're going to get is our high best measurement. So if you take your tape, bring it up under the arms as far as you can, get it under the arms here and then across the top of the bus. You don't want to pull too tight. You can. I just want to give you in there comfortably. And my high bust is at 36 inches, so I'm gonna write that down on my worksheet. The next measure you want to get is your full dust measurements. This is gonna be the measurement right around the fullest part of your bust. And you do want to try to get this measurement parallel to the floor. So you want to make sure that you're coming around full is part of the bust and that your making sure you keep your tape is a parallel to the floor as possible. So it should be pretty much straight here, and you know what? He's a mirror tow line this up so I can't really tell for sure right now. This is straight that. Do you know that my full best is 38 a half inches measured earlier, So you want to make sure that it's right about there and get it peril as parallel and straight as possible as you can to the floor. So when you measure your bust all the way around the school bus, do you also want to take the measurement across the front part of the bus and that part of us? This is another reason why it's good to wear a well thinning, close fitted shirt because you have your side seem to use the guy. So if you measure around, if you put the tape measure here at the side seam and then you measure around the fullest part of the bust to the other scene, then you'll get your front bust measurement. It's a mine is about 20 ish inches, about 20 to 20.5 inches, and then if I measure around the back, it should kind of make up the difference for the entire best measurement. So mines right around 18 inches. Next, we'll do our waist measurement. So we've got our stream here right around our way, So we never The waste is now, so we're just going Teoh, wrap the tape measure around the ways to get very comfortably and mine is about 30.5 inches . And you want to make sure that you're taking your measurements fresh every time you do this because your weight will fluctuate and your measurements will fluctuate over time. Like I just did this yesterday and my waist was at 30 inches. And today it's at 30.5 inches, so just something to keep in mind. So the next measure, what we're gonna get is our bust Apex to bust Apex. So we're gonna find the full is part of the bus to the front and measure between those two points on both for us. So mine is about seven and 3/4 inch for this measurement. Next, we're gonna get the best a pet to the waist measurement. So once again, you're gonna measure down from one of your best apex down to the waist and mine is about seven and 3/4 inch for that measurement. So the next measurement that we want to get is our center front, neck to waist line. And I like this particular shirt because it has not only is it close fitting, but it has a neckline that comes cut higher than most of my shirts and would be more of my natural neckline. So measure from the centre front, they're just right at the same line. And if you don't have a shirt that has a high neck like this, you can kind of judge like my neck bone is right here. So measure straight down. I'm not going to stress the take too much time. Measure straight down, and I got 14 inches for that measurement. So the next measurement our worksheet, is the shoulder slip measurement, and this is kind of an awkward measurement to take on yourself. So I'm just gonna put a default one and 3/8 inch as a starting point for this. But if you did want to measure this, or if you had a partner that could help you with this, you basically want Teoh extend a straight line parallel to the floor from the highest point of the shoulder where it meets the neck out over the outside of the shoulder and then measure that difference right there from the tip of the shoulder to where that imaginary line would be. The next measurement we need to get is our shoulder seam length. So this is gonna be the length from the top of the shoulder, where it means the net out to the tip of the shoulder, where it means the arm. And again, this is another one that's a little bit awkward to take for yourself. If you have a body that can help you take that measurement, that's great. If you don't, then we're just gonna use five inches as a default measurement. For that, we can always come back and edit it later. So the next measurement on our worksheet is the high point of the shoulder to the waist, and we're gonna take this measurement actually from the back. This is a little bit offered to do yourself, but you can definitely do it if you have a buddy. This that will help to. So I'm gonna take the top of the tape measure here. I'm gonna put it on my shoulder seam and swing the tape measure to the back, and then I'm just gonna pull this down until I meet the waistline, and it's gonna be a little awkward. You try to keep your posture as natural as possible while you do this, and I get about 17.5 inches for that measurement. So another measurement that we need to take up the back is the centre back neck to our waste. So once again, we're just going to the top of the tape measure. We're going to swing it around the back. I'm gonna put it here at the at the seam of my neckline here. But it's also right there, the neck bone. And then I'm gonna gently pull this down to the waistline, feel around for it. Market with my thumb, and I got 16 and 1/4 inches for that measurement. So the last measurement on our worksheet is the distance between shoulder points, and we're actually gonna take this measurement also from the back. So if you take your tape measure, put it in your head around back and you want to line it up with your tips of your shoulders at the shoulder bone So my I'm sure, actually, the seams of my sleeve line up really nicely with my shoulder tips. So I'm gonna use that and try to have his relaxed imposters you can with your arms up like this. I'm market. Get it right in there, and mine is right at 16 inches. 3. Create a New Document: Okay, Once you have Adobe Illustrator open, we're just going to create a new document. And to do that, you can click create new right here in the top left portion of the screen, or you can go to file and new, or you can just hit, command in or control in. If you're on a PC, I'll be using a Mac computer. So all of the references to keystrokes that all use will be for Mac. So let's just create new It's just gonna bring up this dialog box on. Illustrator has several presets already made for you if you want to use those, and it also will set up presets if you have used them in previous documents. I always default to just entering my information fresh each time. And over here you can rename your documents. So let's go ahead and do that. I'm gonna call this bodice Sloper, and then it defaulted to 24 inches wide by 36 inches high. And that is because that's the last setting that I used for the last document that I created. And that is actually what I want to do for this one. So I'm gonna leave it as 24 inches by 36 inches. And if you want to change your units, you can do that here by clicking the little pull down menu. Um, I'm gonna leave my inches, but if you wanted to change it to centimeters, for example, you could do that very easily here. Okay, let's create. And that will bring up this window here that has are 24 by 36 inch art board. This this square here is called Art Board, and I'll go into more detail on those as we move through the lesson. But that's all you have to do to set up your new document. 4. Draft the Back Bodice: Okay, now we're ready to start drafting Are Sloper. We're going to start with the back bodice first, and the first measurement we need to record is the back highest point of the shoulder to the waist measurement. So we're actually gonna work off of the art board. So if you hit the space bar is gonna bring it still hand, and you can drag and move your view off of the top of this art born here because we want to work off to the side and all of this is doing is just moving your field of view over. So we're going to have you here to decide we're going to select the line tool, which is this little line looking to hear in the tools menu on the left hand side of the screen. It's called the line segment tool. And if you click that, it's going to bring up a little cross hair here. So I'm just going to click kind of in the middle of the screen here, and it's going to bring up the line segment Tool Options box and for my back high point shoulder to waist measurement is 17.5 inches, So 17.5. And since my units already set up his inches, it's gonna out of automatically do This is inches. And if you if you change yours two centimeters, it'll automatically two years of centimeters if you enter centimeters here. So 17.5 inches this little circle here with the line going down, it shows which angle this is gonna be at. We do want this to be a to 70 so we'll be straight down and they're gonna click. OK, so now we've created our first line If you could click command and plus, you can zoom in in command and minus you consume out we're gonna zoom into that line I'm gonna hit the space bar and kind of reposition, hear, clicking, drag And then I'm gonna hit thes selection tool. And also, if you don't wanna have to keep coming back over to them and you like for the selection tool, just the letter V is is the key stroke for that. If it is different, if you have her over that tool, it will show you in parentheses with the keystroke for that tool is so I'm gonna hit the so Now I have a line that is the same length as the top of the highest point at my shoulder to my waist measurement. And I want to create some coordinates for myself here to kind of help me stay organized. So I'm gonna select the Ellipse tool. If you don't see the Ellipse tool, you can click over here. It might be the rectangle tool, but if you click and hold, you can bring up that menu and you can select the Ellipse tool. And I'm just going to click out here kind of in space. And I'm gonna make this 0.25 inches 1/4 inch by 0.25 and just cause I want this to be a uniformed quarter inch circle and click, OK, I'm gonna click selectivity again. Select that, and I'm just gonna move that to the top of the point. And then I'm gonna with that still selected I'm going to hit the Ault or the option button and click that and it's gonna create a copy. And if you hold down the shift key to let you move it completely straight. So now I've got a point of the top in a point at the bottom, You zoom out a little bit and again if you if you are resumed out so much that you can't really get a good selection on this, you can just zoom in with that selected, and then you can get a little closer and move it a little easier. Something back out? Okay, one more. So I've got two points on this line. I'm gonna name these points A and B. So if you go over to the T. Icahn over here in the left hand menu, this is our type tool. I'm gonna select that. And I'm just gonna click here next to this this circle and I'm gonna type in the letter A And then I'm gonna click off of that. I'm gonna click another one down here, and I'm gonna name this one B and I actually want these to be a little bit bigger so that we can see them. So I'm going to use my select tool. Selected a letter A. I'm gonna select the letter B. You don't have to do this, but I'm doing this just for the demonstration purposes so you guys can see what I'm doing um if you go over here to the properties panel, he can see that the the type is a 12 point type. I'm gonna just bump this way up. I'm not even really that worried about how big the actual number that it is. I just want to be big enough so we can see. And then I'm just gonna move that a little closer so that now we have point A and point B. Okay, so the next line that I'm gonna draw is just a straight line out from because this is going to be my waistline. So I'm gonna select the line tool again line segment tool. And I'm gonna drag that out, holding the shift key so that it's straight and stop there. Okay, so now I have the two lines, but you can see here for some reason, it did not give my Lima stroke. So if I want that to have the same Strokers my other lines, I'm just gonna like that, and I'm gonna select the eyedropper tool over here. It looks like a little eyedropper can also hit the letter. I and I'm going to with this one selected. So if I select this line. So like the eyedropper tool and select this line. Now I've given the new line the same properties as this first line. The next measurement that I want to plot on here is the bust to waist measurement. So from the bust Apex down to the waist and that measurement for me is seven and 3/4 inches . So I'm gonna select this point here, the circle here for B and I'm just gonna do command, shift em or control shift em and it's gonna bring up the move dialogue box and so I can put in my horizontal and vertical plotting points and it's gonna move that in the direction that I wanted to move. So I want to move it straight up vertically, the seven and 3/4 inch distance from my bust, a text to my waist. So I'm gonna type in zero for horizontal, cause I'm not moving it horizontally. I'm just moving it vertically. And since I'm moving it up vertically, I'm gonna actually type in negative seven and 3/4 or 7.75 inches. Because in illustrator, when you move things down, it's positive and up is negative and then to the right is positive. Into the left is a negative if you're moving horizontally. So for this it's removing. Yet we're gonna go negative 7.75 inches. And I'm gonna copy that so that it creates a copy. And you see, now I have another point that has copied up here, and I'm gonna name this point C again, I'm just typing there. If you use the type tool and your letter is smaller or for some reason, it defaults to a different type of funt or size again, you can just select that that particular things like the Eyedropper tool and select on another, another type object that you want to match it to, and it'll match that. So now I've got my top highest point of shoulder on the back maps down to my waist, and then I've got my best lines mapped out. So now I'm just gonna draw a line straight across from see again holding down the shift key . Okay, It's the next point that I want to plot out is my back bust measurement. So you'll remember that we took are busting our full best measurement and then we also figured out what that would be just for the back portion of that. So I'm gonna take the back best measurement and divided by two to get point D. So I'm gonna select this again. I'm gonna hit command shift em. And this time we are moving horizontally. So I wanna make sure that vertical is zero. We're not moving in a new direction vertically since moving to the right horizontally. It's gonna be a positive number. And my back bust measurement is 18 inches. I mean, divide that by two, so it's gonna be 18 inches divided by two, which will be nine inches. And I'm going to again make sure that I hit Copy. And there you have it. So now we have our point D. This time, I'm actually just going to copy the sea over. So if you have the sea selected and you hit the Ault or option key, you can click and drag, and it will create a copy, and I'm just gonna double click in there and change that to D. So now we've got point d plotted here. So now we want to get our waist measurement on here and for the back bodice. What we want to do is take the waist measurement divided by four and take away 1/4 inch. So once again, I'm going to select the point here. Next to be actually, let's go ahead and select B and the letter and the point control shift em for move, and my waist measurement is 30.5 inches. I want to divide that by four. So let's actually just get a calculator here. 30.5 divided by four equals 7.625 inches, and I want O take away 1/4 inch of minus 00.25 inches. That gives me 7.375 inches, so I'm just gonna put in 7.375 inches here. There's no vertical movement, someone to make sure that that zero ah, the distance will up to eat. Once I click out of that box and again, I'm gonna hit Copy. That is our waist measurement. I'm going to rename this point e. I just double clicking on that tax there. So the next thing that we want to do is add in a way, start because if we just plotted out this D tiu line here, it's going to be pretty steep, and we don't really want that side. Seem to be quite that steep. So we're gonna do is make a little little bit less steep about line a science in here using a waste dart. So to do that, we're going to move. We're going to create another point that is an inch and 1/4 away from E to move the waist, line out a little bit here, and then we'll transfer that into away. Start here. So if your best to waist ratio is greater than 10 inches, you might want to do a little bit more than the in jin 1/4 that I'm going to do. And since this isn't really a class about fitting and fitting principles, you may want to do a little bit more research on this if you're not familiar with how to do that. But for this exercise, we're just gonna move it out an inch and 1/4. So again, we're gonna select these two. We're gonna move those horizontally one and 1.25 inches, which is an Internet quarter, no vertical movement, and we're going to be that gonna rename this f So I'm just gonna draw a line using line tool from D T f. So to create the way, start, we're going to take our bust Apex, Apex measurement. And use that for our back dart as well. So I need to take my best apex measurement and divide that by two to get the location of this this dart for the back. Since my best apex Apex is seven and 3/4 7 point 75 inches. I'm gonna divide that by two. I've got 3.875 So that's going to be the distance that I need to travel between sea and the next point. So that's gonna be point G that I'm created creating and to select about the point and the letter. I just hold down the shift key. This like them both at the same time. I'm going to control, shift and move, and I'm gonna move this horizontally 3.875 inches. No vertical movement, and I'm gonna copy that, and I'm gonna rename this one g double clicking there, so that will be the point of our dart for the back right along the bus line here. So the next thing we want to do is we want to move the point g straight down to the waistline to locate the center of the back dart. So instead of typing in the coordinates for this, this is a pretty easy one. I'm just gonna select this and copy it down to this line here for the waistline. Um, hover your mouse over the circle, hold down the all key click and drag, and it'll create a copy of that. If you hold down the shift key at the same time, it'll bring it straight down and then release it on that line. So now we have our middle point of the dart for the waste come into the same thing for the letter. I'm just gonna double click that call that h. Okay, so now we want to do is create our dart. So we moved our side scene out here, an engine 1/4. So we need the width of our dart at the bottom to be an Internet quarter as well. That means that we're gonna have to move the dart legs out 5/8 of an inch on either side of this point. What I like to dio is just draw line directly from G straight down the age. Okay? And then with that line selected, I'm gonna do control shift, move. I'm gonna do five eights inch if you don't. If you don't know the exact fraction you can type in 5/8 engine, it'll it will created for you here in this dialog box. And make sure that I'm only moving it horizontally and not vertically zero inches vertically. And I'm gonna press. Gonna copy that. Okay, Did the same thing for the one that's remaining control shift, Move. This time I'm not gonna copy, and I'm actually gonna move it horizontally in the opposite direction. So negative 0.625 or 5/8 inch. Okay, so now I've got my dart legs. I just need to connect them back to G. So if I select this top anchor point here, I can just pull that over to Gene and do the same thing for this. And now I have my dart here for the back. So now we're gonna work on the shoulder and neck portion of the back bodice, so we're gonna square a line from point A across the top. So we're just gonna click using our line tool in drag across. It doesn't really matter how long right now and we're gonna create point I, which is gonna be the shoulder point to shoulder point measurement across the bag, divided by two. So let's select a and then shift to select them both. If you're you don't have to actually put the letters for each of these, but I find that helps me say organized. So we're gonna control shift move, and my across back measurement shoulder point to shoulder point is 16 inches in half of that is eight inches. So I'm gonna say eight inches horizontally. No vertical movement, and I'm going to copy, and that is my measurement. Okay, I'm gonna change this to the letter. I now we need to record the shoulder slope. And as I mentioned before, I'm kind of defaulting to one and 3/8 inch. This is something that's pretty easy to adjust once you get the Sloper on, if it But it is kind of hard to measure on yourself without help. So one in three. It is a good place to start, so we're gonna move straight down from I to J to record the shoulder slope. So control, shift, move. We're going to go vertically this time. So zero in the horizontal box gonna go a positive direction since we're going down, it's a little bit counterintuitive, but since we're going down vertically, it's just gonna be a positive movement. So 1.375 inches is the same as one and 3/8 inches and we're going to copy that. And I'm just gonna change this to Jay. That is our shoulder slope. So from J, we're going to record the shoulder seam length. We're gonna draw a line directly from the center point of J. So if you just click here, it's going to bring up our line segment tool options. And we know that we're going to start with a five inch shoulder seam length, and yours may be a little different if you decided to go ahead and try to measure this on yourself. This is another one of those measurements that I feel is pretty easy to adjust later. So I just default to five inches just to make it easier. Since I didn't have help measuring myself. So I'm gonna make that link five inches. The angle of this doesn't matter because we're gonna rotate this, so just put in five inches with that selected, So I'm gonna select it with the regular selection tool. I'm going to rotate this and you can select this little rotate tool icon over here. Or you can set the other letter R. I always just hit the letter R. And then you want a first click on the end here inside of J. So just click that that'll move your center of rotation to the end of this line, and then we're gonna select the other anchor here, and we're just gonna pull us around. And now it's just rotating that evenly, and we're gonna rotate it until we hit the shoulder line and release. And sometimes it takes a little bit of trial and error so you can see my line here is extending just a little bit past that line, which is not a huge deal to be totally honest. But if you wanted to get that just right again gets like the rotate tool, make sure that your center of rotation is here. You'll see a little kind of turquoise colored target on the center, and then you're gonna select the other anchor point and just kind of drag that down a little bit until it's where you want it. Okay? And click off of that, and we're going to zoom out. Also, now would be a really good time to save. I'm terrible about reminding people to save, so we're gonna go ahead and save this, and you can save it in the spot where you would like to save it. So I have already set up a folder here for all of this save. It's already named my bought A Sloper. All of that to save that and click. Ok, all right, that over. Also, if you want to move something and just kind of budget around, if you just select and use your arrow keys, you can kind of move that around pretty easily if you want to move things over. Okay, so next I want to move this point up here, select the J and this circle and hold down the all key. And I'm just going to move this. A copy here to mark Point K here at the neck so many Nykea. All right, so the next thing we want to do is find Thesis, enter back neck location, and to get that, we're going to use the center back neck to waist measurement that we recorded earlier. For me, that measurement is 16 and 1/4 inch. So I'm going to copy point B. Mr. Let's shift in Select B and the little circle here Control, shift and move, and I'm gonna move this vertically, so I'm gonna make sure the horizontal zero moving in the upward direction vertically so it's gonna be negative 16.25 inches and copy that. And this is gonna be point l So now we're going to connect point K two point l and you can do this with your pen tool. So if you just click here inside of l, I'm gonna kind of click and drag just a little bit. You can see I've got these handles, that air stretching out on either side. When I release, it's going to start to kind of curve that a little bit, and then I'm gonna click in K and pull that up a little bit, and you kind of just eyeball this to get it where you want it. And you can adjust the handles here, or you can use the template that I provided for the French curve. So I'm going to bring that in right now, actually. So if you just go to file and open if you've downloaded that navigate to where you downloaded that and I'm gonna open that and then I'm just gonna select this item is a group two items. So I'm just gonna make sure I selected with my black arrow so it selects the whole thing. I'm in a command, see to copy. And then I'm in the command V to paste that in here. Just paste it in there. You can move it out of the way, and all of these air group together. So as long as you select this with the black arrow, it'll move everything together. If you accidentally selected with the white arrow is gonna distort it controls he just make sure that you use the black arrow key. Okay, so if you wanted to use this to help you drawl your neck there, you can just you can see you get like, a little rotation thing at the end of the anchor point here, you can rotate that around. If you wanted to flip this over, you can reflect this If you go, if you right click, go to transform and reflect, you can flip it around and play around with that. I don't typically use this, but if this is something that you feel like if you're not confident in the curbs that you're creating, this is kind of a nice tool toe have, actually just to kind of play around with how you want that toe look and to get the curb in there and especially if you're used to using a French curve, you kind of get in there and make some nicer curves. I don't really use that very much. I will use this actually for arm side, but for the neck opening, I kind of just eyeball it. So I got my neck drawn there. I'm actually going to just want to make sure that I have that when I'm adjusting the curve of this neck. I want to make sure that I use the White Arrow, the direct selection tools. So I click on that and I can click on the anchor points and then use Thies to drag the handles around and adjust those curves a little bit more to my liking. And I'm trying to kind of get a right angle here and here at the edges and at the shoulder or seen OK, just gonna move this out of the way for now. So we'll use that later and repositions holding in the space bar and moving my field of vision over a little bit. So now we're gonna get our across back measurement so that we can start to draft the arm side here on the back bodice, and we're going to just measure down about five inches from point A. And this is just kind of a default measurement from a tutorial that I found for dropping the bodice. And it worked well for me, so I'm gonna do five inches. So if we do command shift and move our command shift in M, we're going to move this vertically, so zero horizontal and vertically. Five inches. Since we're moving down, it's gonna be positive, a positive direction for the vertical direction. And we're gonna copy that and we're gonna name this M. Okay, so now we're gonna measure from M two point in across the back to start to locate the edge of our arm side curve. So to get that, we're going to take our shoulder point to shoulder point measurement and divide it by two and then subtract 1/4 inch because our back our mid back here, where this meets the arm size is gonna be a little bit narrower than our shoulder to shoulder measurement. So that's how we're gonna get that. So we're gonna select at point M and command shift move. So we're moving this horizontally. Make sure that vertical is zero and horizontally. Semi across back between the shoulders is 16 inches, so 16 divided by two is eight inches. And then I'm gonna take off 1/4 inch. That's going to give me seven and 3/4 of an inch. So 7.75 inches and I'm in the copy that and then I'm gonna rename this point in. So now I'm going to connect Point J two point in with just a very slightly curved line. I'm gonna use my pen tool for that. So if I select point Jay right in the center, there and then come down two point in give it just a little subtle curve. That kind of just eyeball this again. You can use your French curve template over here if you want to try to If you're if you're more confident using that as a template and you can just kind of position this over here like so and you can rotate that to position that you like, so you can use that if you want. I'm kind of free. I'm just kind of eyeballing it. Then you're going to connect point D two point in with another curved line and actually, I'm going to use the arms Iker for this one because I feel that getting the curves just right down near the armpit is one of the more challenging curves to get. And I think that a French curb helps with this, So I'm actually gonna just kind of rotated this around using the corner anchor points here . You get like, a little rotation tool or rotation sign here, and then you can drag and rotate, and then I'm actually gonna flip this up on the other side. So I'm gonna drive. If I right click and click, transform and then reflect I can reflect this vertically click. OK, and then I am going to kind of play around with this little bit just to get it right in there. I'm using my rotate tool to So I've got this selected and then I'm selecting the anchor point down here, and I'm gonna kind of rotate this. That looks a little bit funky. So it may take just a minute to kind of play around with this May just Max is gonna put us on a different layer. So do that. I'm just with that selected, I'm gonna hit Command X or control eggs. I'm going to come over here to the layers panel, heard a new layer gonna drag it down to the bottom Here, I'm gonna double click that to rename it French Curve. And with that layer selected, I'm gonna hit command shift V. It's gonna pace that in exactly the same place, but on this layer here. And now that I'm looking at this actually wanna adjust this a little bit more so I'm just kind of play around with this and get that curve a little bit more curved into the back here. Okay, I like that a little bit better. Okay, so let's lock this layer the French curb layer. I'm just gonna hit this little box here. It's going to bring up the lock. And that way I can start to drawl here on the layer one without affecting the French curve . Some select my pin tool. Make sure the un selected on that layer I'm gonna click inside of point em or in excuse me down to point D click. And I'm just going to click and drag to start to create a curve there that matches pretty closely to the edge of the French curve. Okay. And then I'm going to unlock that. I'm gonna move my French curve out of the way. I'm actually gonna turn off the French curve layer now, just gonna hide that. Okay, so now I've drawn that in, and you can see you've got, like, a little bit of a bump here, and we're actually gonna end up putting a dart right here in the arm because you're probably if you left it as is, you might have a little bit of extra bulk in the back arm side here, and we want to remove that. So we wanna put a dark there to help with that. And then later we can move the dart to a different location. But for now, we're gonna put it right here in the arms. I zoom in a little bit, Okay? So to locate the dart point for this arm, side dart, we are gonna come down from the shoulder seen on, but we're going to do is just take half of the shoulder seam distance and square it down to here to get that line. And actually, let's go ahead and draw a line from M to N on our layer one. So I'm using the line tool. I'm just gonna dry the line straight across from in to end. So we know that this shoulder seam line is five inches, so we want a point. That's 2.5 inches there. And they were gonna square that down to this line. To do that, you can just feel like this Point k, and I'm gonna do command shift in. And for this part, it doesn't really matter. Um, what the angle of this point is, what angle you move it at so I'm just gonna move it straight horizontally. 2.5 inches, 2.5 inches and I'm gonna click. Copy. So now that moved it straight horizontally. But I'm gonna rotate it to be on this line here. So now that's 2.5 inches. That's like, right in the center of the shoulder seam line. Someone to rename this point. Oh, in the next point letter, it's and change it. Oh, and then I mean a copy 00.0 down to here. But first I want to square a line from 0.0, at the shoulder seam straight down to the line that goes between points M and in. And with this line, I'm kind of eyeballing it, but I'm basically trying to get it perpendicular here to the shoulder scene and let me just make sure that that is the same line with the eyedropper tool, okay? And then I'm gonna copy this point point O down to and here that will be our dark point. Now you'll notice if you're trying to align like like I've been moving these points in trying to align the center here. The arrow turns white once you are directly centered on the end point of a line or even a lot even appoint along a path. It will turn white once you align this point. So got that center there. And now I can draw all my dart so we're only going to do a about 1/2 inch dart here in the back. Arms I So we're gonna want to measure 1/4 inch above and the low point in. So to do that, I'm just going Teoh again, Similar to how we did for the way. Start down here. I'm gonna draw a line straight to point. Oh, from point in, that line is selected there. I'm gonna control, shift and move that line vertically. So it's a zero for horizontal that move it vertically. Negative 0.25 since removing in the upward direction. So vertical negative 0.25 inches. And I want Teoh, Okay, and that's that. And then I'm gonna control, shift and move again since that same line is still selected that some of them had to move it 1/2 inch. So 0.5, um, to make this start 1/2 inch deep and since we're moving down, it will be a positive 0.5 inches, and I'm gonna click copy for that. And then I'm just going to select the endpoints of these lines and again move them 2.0, for the dark point. And there's our dart. So let's zoom out here. Oh, and I want to name this point p. I kind of forgot to do that, but we'll let it slide. Okay, so now you're dark. Point is point P. So now we have drafted the framework for our back bodice of the slow for And the next lesson we're going to do the same thing, but for the front Sloper. 5. Draft the Front Bodice: Okay, now we're ready to draft the front bodice of our Sloper. So we're going to do this right next to the back bodice, and we're gonna use some of the same coordinates here. So I'm just gonna hit the space bar and I'm gonna move this over a little bit. I have a little room to work over here on the front bodice. So next I want to do is I'm going to select the waistline and the best line. I'm just gonna move that. I'm just gonna extend those over so that they can use as again for our front bodice. And I'm moving that end anchor point over and I'm holding the shift key so that it moves straight into the same thing for the bus line here. Maybe all the way over a little snap to the same link is that not that it matters, but it's kind of good that it does that coming over a little bit. And the first thing we want a plot similar to the first thing that we did for our back bodice is our front high point shoulder to the waist. And my measurement there is 18 inches, so it's gonna be a little bit longer because you're going over the bust. If you're a bust is smaller than it might be closer to the same distance, but likely will be a little bit larger since you're going over the bust here. So got 18 inches. I'm just going Teoh, draw a line. I'm just going to click Here comes next to to be point of my back bodice, and I'm going to make this 18 inches and you do want it to go up 90 degrees. If this if this angle does not say 90 degrees and you want to type in 90 degrees here and I'm gonna click, OK, and that gives me that line. So I'm just gonna copy these points over to that line and adjust them to fit. So I've selected those who hold down the shift key to select all of those at the same time . And then I'm gonna hold down the altar key and click and move to copy those and then you'll see the arrow turns white. Once I get on that point B, and then I just need to move this point A up to the top of this line here. Okay, I'm also going to go ahead and just just for reference. Mint label these lines. This is the best. My Alton Select drag. This is the waste. Okay, So again, we want to get me to see, to get the best to waste Apex. And since this is the same for the front and the back, since our bus goes all the way around, you know, in the same plain, it'll be the same. So we really don't have to even plot this out. We could just copy our point. See here that I hold on Ault and click and drag that to copy point C and I'm actually going to move these letters out to the outside here. So now I need to plot the side seam and to get the widest point of the side seam, I need the front bust measurement. And since this is only half the bodies, I'm gonna do half of the front bust measurement. So before my back bust measurement was 18 inches, which since my full entire bust circumference measurement is 38 a half inches. That's gonna leave me with 20.5 inches for my front bust measurement, and I'm gonna divide that by two. So 20.5 divided by two is gonna be 10 and 1/4 inches. So I'm gonna select this point shift, select, See Control shift, move or M, and I'm gonna move this negative since removing to the left. 10.25 inches. Okay. And I'm gonna copy that. Okay, I'm gonna name this D. So now we need to plot the waist measurement. And for this one for the front bodice, we're gonna do the waist measurement divided by four. But this time, instead of subtracting 1/4 inch, we're gonna add 1/4 inch. So that measurement for me is 30.5 inches from my ways. Divided by four 30.5, divided by four equals 7.625 plus 1/4 inch 0.25 inches, 7.875 inches. Select the B and the point there. And I'm going to control shift and m negative. 7.875 inches. I'm only moving it horizontally and I'm moving into the left. Want to make sure that vertical is zero and I'm going to copy that, so once again, you can see we've got a pretty steep angle here from D to be. And we don't want that. We want to put another way, start in the front bodice here. So we're gonna do this the same way we did for the back bodice. And we're gonna make it also, um, an engine 1/4 for this one as well. So we're gonna take this, actually need to rename this this point here. Simply name that point E. And we're going to copy this point e over. So negative. 1.25 inches. No vertical movement and copy. And that will be point f since name that f. Okay, so now we can draw our size seem from D two f. So now we want to locate our bust Apex so that we can locate the bus start. And to do that, we're gonna take our best point to Best point or bust Apex to bust Apex measurement and divide that by two the same way that we did for the back bodice. So my best apex to bust Apex is seven and 3/4 inch. So if we divide that by two 7.75 divided by two is 3.875 So I'm going to select Point C and the letter, and I'm gonna move that negative three point 875 inches for half of the bust Apex to bust Apex measurement. And I'm gonna copy that. And there is our bust Apex. Now I need to create the best start. And for the best start, I'm actually going to move the best start point for the front down an inch and 1/4 because you actually don't want your bust point for your bus start to be directly on the bust. Apex. You kind of want it a little bit lower so that it doesn't have a point right on the center of your breast. So we're gonna move this point down. Control shift, move. We're gonna do zero horizontal movement. We're gonna move it down one in the quarter inch, so Well, we'll go positive. It'll be in the positive direction since we're going down. So 1.25 inches down and we're gonna copy that, and that'll be our dark point there for that bus start. And we also want to rename this. This is now g point G there. I'm actually not gonna worry about renaming this point here, but to get the best start, we're actually going to do the same exact thing that we did for the back. We're going to copy this line, this particular point straight down, which is straight down from Giza. We're just gonna take this one all to click to copy straight down to the waist line here and release. And that will be our point. H can't now. We're going to draw a line straight down from the best point to h think Sure, that that has the same properties with our eyedropper tool. And then we're gonna move this line. This line selector we're gonna move it over 5/8 of an inch is because our best start with is gonna be an engine. 1/4 and half of that is five eights inch or 50.6 to 5. So control ship move. It's gonna move that horizontally 0.625 It'll be in the positive direction since removing it to the right. First, we're gonna make the vertical movement zero, and we're gonna copy. Okay, Now we're gonna select this middle line again. The one. That's right over the center of the where the dart is gonna be. We're gonna control, shift and move again. This time we're gonna move it in the negative direction since removing it to the left 0.625 inches negative 0.6 to 5 and we're going to not copy that. When this one we're just gonna move it, okay? And then we're gonna take these in points of these lines, and we're gonna drag them back over to the dark point. And that is our way. Start for the front because so now we're gonna work on the shoulder and neck of the front bodice. First, we're going to just square line using the line tool hold down shift and dragged it all way across at a So now we want to locate Point I, which is gonna be our shoulder point to shoulder point. And to do that, we're gonna take our back shoulder points short of point measurement, divided by two and subtract 1/4 inch because the front shoulder to shoulder measurement is a little bit more narrow than the back shoulder to shoulder measurement. So for my back shoulder to shoulder measurement, I have 16 inches and I want to divide that. By Tuesday, 16 inches divided by two is gonna be eight inches minus 1/4 inch is gonna be 7.75 inches. So control shift, move one a move that negative 7.75 inches. And we want to make sure that vertical is zero and we're gonna copy, and then we will rename this point I. So now we want to record our shoulder slope, and it's gonna be the same for the front as it was for the back. So we're gonna do that one and 3/8 inch shoulder slopes. I'm gonna select the point and the letter. The control shift in to move horizontal is zero. Movements were moving vertically. And since we're moving down, it's gonna be a positive movement. So we're gonna move 1.375 for one and 3/8 inch and copy that. And then we're gonna rename this point, Jay. Okay, so now that we have point Jay, we want to record our shoulder seam length, which is five inches. It's gonna be the same for the front as it was for the back and to do that. We're just going to select the line tool. We're gonna click inside of this point, Jay, and we're gonna make this five inches and again, it does not matter for this particular one which direction it goes because we're going to rotate it. So just put in five inches there and click, OK, And then we're gonna rotate that So hit our or select the rotate tool over here and the left tool menu here. And then we're going to click on this in point here, inside of Point Jay, that'll be our point that we rotate around and then we will select this here and rotated Teoh this top line here. So now we're going to select J. And we're going to copy that over to the top of shoulder here to create Point K. The only name that So now we want to locate the center front of the neck line, and that measurement is our center front neck to waist measurement. For me, that measurement is 14 inches. So I'm going going to select point, be down here at the bottom. Is it that the waste I'm in a control shift? Move Control shipped em and I'm gonna move that zero horizontally, but negative 14 inches vertically since removing it up and I'm going to copy that, OK? And now we want to connect K to be with a curved line and you can use your template here that we have for the French curve that we put in another layer. Got that right It here or you can just kind of eyeball it. I'm gonna actually, I've all it here. So I'm gonna first let me just rename this l it's And then I'm gonna use the pen tools that I can draw a curved line. I'm gonna start it, K. I'm gonna click and drag straight down and then release and click again and drag to L. And what I'm trying to do here is just get kind of a nicely curved front neckline. So now we want to determine the across front dimension here and similar to how we did it for the across back. We're just gonna measure five inches down from point A, which is the top, the high point of the shoulder from the front. We're gonna measure down five inches there, so we're gonna control shift in with a point. A selected We're not moving it horizontally. That zero. We're gonna move it down, so it'll be a positive direction. Five inches, and then we're going to copy, and that is point him on the front bodice. So now we want Teoh locate the front of the arm signed. To do that, we need to get a measurement across the front of the shoulders. We're just gonna use the between shoulder measurements from the back. And we're gonna modify that dimension a little bit for the front because the front is a little bit more narrow than the back. The measurement between shoulder points at the back is 16 inches for me. That's my measurement. I'm gonna divide that by two, which is eight inches, and then I'm going to subtract 3/4 inch. So eight inches minus 3/4 inch is going to give me seven and 1/4 inch. So take em and I'm going to copy that control ship, move patrol shipped em, and I'm moving this horizontally in the left directions. That'll be negative. 7.25 inches vertically, zero into inches. And I'm going to copy. That will give me in. So Now we want to connect J two point in two point D with a curved line. And here's where you might want to use a French curve as your template for that because the French carved just creates a much nicer arm sigh curve. So I've turned on the French curve layer. I'm just gonna pull this over here and I'm going to mirror this and it reflected So it's in the opposite direction. Reflect vertical, okay. And when a kind of position this in here and it may take a little trial and error, but I'm just gonna kind of position that's in here and get to a place where I feel like it looks like a nice curve and where it's touching all of those points. And I also want it to be tangent to this, um c to d line here. So that looks pretty close. And I'm just going to lock the French curve layer. I'm gonna use my pen tool on layer one, and I'm just gonna draw through each of these points using the curve of the pitting tool. And I'm not gonna go straight to this point. I'm gonna come a little bit behind here just to get that close, you re click that line just to kind of take away the curve on the other side of it. And then I'm connected to the side seam. Okay, then move this out of the way. Gonna unlock it first with out of the way, and then I'm going to turn off the French curb layer for now. Okay, so it's backing up control if you hit. I'm sorry. Command and minus and then space far can drag. So I can kind of see what I'm working with here. So we're almost done here and actually wanted to draw this line across here just for reference. So we're almost done here. But our arms I hear is really too long. This would be way too long if we did it as is. So we need to add a dart and we need to shorten the arms I and add a bus start here. So in order to figure out how much we want to reduce the arm side by which will determine our bus start, we need to determine the length of the arm side of the back bodice because the front bodice will be similar to the back bodice, but just a little bit shorter. About 1/4 in shorter than the back bodice arm Xilinx. So to measure this arms I length, we're going to select this line. It's just compound path right now, and we need to isolate just this arm site link. So we're going to go to the cut tool. We're going to select the scissors, and you can do that by selecting the scissors tool here on the tools menu. Or you can just select the letter C and that will bring that up is well, so we're going to click here on Point Jay, and we're gonna click on Point D while this is all selected and that will cut those cut that line out of this path. So now we have this isolated. Then we're gonna go over to our document info over here, and it's just a little piece of paper looking icon with an eye on it. If you don't have that, you can just go up to window and make sure the document and those selected. So I've got that selected. When I click on this particular line segment, it's going to give me the info for that. If you're not seeing that information, you can click on the little menu here, these three little lines within this box and make sure that objects is selected a lot of times it defaults to document that if you select objects that will bring up this information. So now we can see that the length of this path is 9.901 inches. So I'm just going to say 9.1 inches and I'm going Teoh, record that over here. 9.1 inches. Okay, so this line here, we want to see what the total length of this is. So again, we're gonna make sure that we have this compound path selected. We just selected it with the black selection tool and we're gonna do the scissors tool. I just press the letter C. I'm gonna click here on J, and I'm gonna click here again on D and then to make sure that I have the black selection tool minister like that and that one is 11 inches, so that one's nearly two inches longer than this back arm side length here. So in order to fix that, we need to make it a little bit shorter and use the dark, so I'm just gonna record the 11 inches here, is gonna call it a straight 11 inches, and we need to take out two inches, roughly two inches. So to do that, we're going to pick a point here in the arms I to create a cut. And I'm just going to kind of selected about in the mid point of the arc between an Andy. So I'm just gonna copy point in down and put it about right there. Call this point. Oh, so I'm gonna copy point. Oh, about two inches away to new point p along this arc here. And it's do that. I'm just gonna control shift move with that point selected gonna move horizontally two inches. I'm not gonna move it vertically because we're just gonna rotate this from point. Oh, and then I'm gonna copy. So now I've got that selected. I'm going to hit the rotate tool. Just selected are to do that. I'm selecting the point inside of this point here. So this is the point that I'm going to rotate the object around and then I'm gonna click here and rotate that to the arms I So now I have this point here that I want to close up. And to do that, I'm gonna kind of plot a little wedge point here in the arms I toward the best point where I'm going to basically pinch out this extra space here in the arms I But first, you want to create a point along the side seam for the bus star because we as we pinch out this this length here, we're gonna add it to the side seam for our best start. So we're gonna take point D and we're just going Teoh control, shift and move. We're going to do about two inches from Point D, and we're going to copy that. So, coffee that and then we're just gonna rotate that down so that still selected we're gonna hit our we're gonna select inside this this side, same point d, and we're gonna rotate this down, too. But the side seam there and that'll be point Q. I'm actually gonna delete this and just re copy the text here. So it's nice and straight up and down. That'll be point Q. And that's where our bus start is gonna be. And I also want to rename this other point Point p here. I'm gonna move that down there. Just gonna name that point P. Okay, Now we want to draw a line from 0.2 point G. We're gonna draw a line from point P two point G and then a line from point Q two point G. So all of these lines are pointing are connecting two point g, which is our best best point. So now I just want to create a wedge between P. De and Q. It's also like these two lines and then also select the lines that connect PG and Q two d and I'm going to group those by right clicking and selecting group and what that does. It just kind of puts thes these lines all in a group together, so they'll move together. Something controls you to get that back to where it waas. I also want to include points p and D in that group. So I'm gonna also hold down shift, select the P the d and those two circles relate corresponding to those coordinates, and I'm gonna do control G to group those together or you can also control are you can also right click and group as well. So now I've got this these points in these lines together in a group, and I'm just going to rotate this wedge to close up the gap between P and O and create a dart between Q and a new point that will be created once we once we do this. So with that wedge selected, I'm gonna hit the rotate tool. Just you can type, are or select rotate here, and I'm going to click first at point G to make sure that my point of rotation is around. Point G, and then I'm going to click on point P and drag and start to close up this side Seem Now, you can see this is kind of going to be a little trial and error, because right now, I don't necessarily want to go all the way up right here, because that's just kind of a weird curve. So I might try first to go about halfway, and then I'm gonna come in here and draw the arm side. But before I do that, you can see that I started creating a space here. Eventually we will connect qg again and we'll have a dart here. But before I do that, I just want to kind of play around with the arms I to get a curve that I like and get a measurement that gets me a little bit shorter than nine inches that we're aiming for about 8.8 inches. Okay, so about eight and 3/4 a little bit over eight and 3/4 for this arm side here. So to do that, I'm going to actually museum out. I'm doing command in minus to zoom out. When you go back over to my layers panel, I'm gonna turn my French Kurd back on, and I'm gonna use my French curve template to kind of help me decide how I want to make this curve. And again, I'm trying to connect the curve from J through in down to D So this up and start to kind of play around with that, you can kind of rotate it. So I'm gonna do that now. So I like the way that sitting in there I got it from J to end to de The French curve is kind of nicely going through those, and I'm reshaping the curve here that I just kind of pinched out. But before I commit to this, I wanted to see how long this particular curve is gonna be if I commit to this the way that I've got it positioned right now. So I'm gonna lock my French curve layers that I could draw on top of this without affecting that. Make sure you have layer one. Select this, you can drawing layer one, and I'm just going to I'm gonna draw off. I'm just kind of draw out to the side here and not really be very lips. So I got my pen tool selected. Wanna make sure used to like the pin tool and not this coverage or tool that I pins to pin Tool selected. And first, I'm just gonna kind of draw out here. I'm not really being to perfect with it because I don't want this line to automatically connect to any of these lines. I just want to see how this line will look first before drawing it in there. Someone, a kind of position. This in here got a bit point Jay in and D and then I'm going to reshape this line to fit along the line of the French curve. Okay, It's pretty close. Now, Once again, I've got that line selected you. It's hard to kind of see, because it's all layered on top of everything where that line selected. I'm gonna go back over to my document info, and I've got 9.5661 So that is See, we want to get it down to That's still too long. So that's actually still longer than our back arm site curve. We wanted it to be closer to about 8.8 inches. So actually make myself a note here. So we're aiming for 8.8 inches can. So I need to probably pinch out a little bit more. So I'm gonna move my French curb out of the way. I gotta unlock this. I could move, actually, Just, um, turn. Unlock that moving out of the way. I'm gonna actually make I'm gonna keep this curve. I'm just gonna move it out of the way. I'm gonna reuse that. But now I need to rotate this just a little bit more. So again, I'm gonna like that wedge. I'm gonna go to rotate, and I'm gonna come in just little bit more here and take my French curve, reposition it here and again Play with the rotation of that. This is the one part of doing this digitally that becomes a little bit more cumbersome than if you were doing it by hand. Because if you're obviously doing it my hands a little bit easier to rotate this around on . And you can obviously off eyeball this again if you want to. Um, I just find that the French curve curbs are much more elegant and create a better a better curve here, I would see. Okay, let's see how that looks. And now we have got or other line here. I'm just gonna kind of position this over here. Well, walk the French curve layer again, and then I'm going to use my direct selection tool, the white Arrow, to start playing around with that and aligning it with the new location. That French cover doesn't have to be perfect, but I've got that positioned there, and I'm just gonna quickly look now at 9.1743 I still need to go down a little bit more. So you play that again? Okay, so now I've managed to get this line to about 8.8774 which is pretty close. I think that's pretty good. And I'm gonna leave it there, so I'm gonna turn off my French curb layer. Now lock it and turn it off. Okay, so I got my French curve where I want it. I've got my arms, I where I want it. And now I want to draw all the other dart leg from point Q two point g to finish this bus start. We're almost done. But before we finish, we just need to reposition the the point of this bus start here. So we're going to the straw line between Q and this, This new dart leg that we have and the center of that is right about there. So I'm just going Teoh, draw a point from point g to that center point there, and then I'm going to move point G about an inch and 1/4. The same that we did for our way Start. I'm gonna move the point and Ancient 1/4 away from G, so I'm just gonna control shift, move our control shift in and I'm going to move this horizontally. 1.25 I'm not going to move it vertically. Any direction for the zero there, I'm gonna rotate this point and I'm gonna copy that. And then I'm gonna rotate that from point g, gonna make sure that my point of rotation is in the circle of point G. I'm gonna click to rotate this to this line that I just created, and that is my new dark point. So now I just need to redraw my dart legs to this new point. So I'm just gonna draw new legs, actually. So I'm gonna go from here to the new point and from point Q to the new point there. And that is a new best bus start. And I'm just gonna delete this this point here. Um, so you can see now I have my bus start. I've got my new arms. I and I've got the way starts, and that is all you have to do to finish the framework for your front and back bodice for the Sloper. So in the next lesson, I'm just going to show you guys how to draw, like, clean outline on top of all of this framework that you created so that you have a nice bodice Sloper pattern. Then we're gonna add seam allowance, and I'm gonna show you how to set up your printing so that you can print out the pattern and start making your Sloper. 6. Final Pattern Outline and Seam Allowances: The next thing that we want to do is draft the final outline for our slow pers. So for the front in the back, Sloper, we're just gonna draw in, outline around all of the main parts of the Sloper on a different layer so that we have a finished pattern that we can then work with. So the person you want to do for that is creating new layer. So in your layers panel over here, you cook on the two little boxes stacked on what stacked on top of one another. Then you can create a new layer. So we have layer one, which is what the default layer was only started this project and then we have a layer for our French curve that we now have locked, and I've turned it off so that we can't see it. I want to rename layer one. So if we double click on layer one, I'm just gonna call this base layer, and then I want to create a new layer that cook on base layer. I'm gonna create a new layer by There's a little icon down here that looks like a piece of paper with the end turned up. And if you have a river, it'll say creating your layer. So I'm gonna create a new layer, and I'm gonna call this pattern layer, Okay, so I'm gonna lock the base layer because I don't want to edit that anymore, and I wanna be able to draw on top of it without moving anything around. So I got the base layer locked, going to make sure that I have the pattern layer selected, and then we're just gonna start drawing are outlines to create the final layer. So to do that, let's just do this with the pin tools so you can get a press, the letter p on your keyboard or you can click on the pin tool. You want to make sure that you have just the regular pin tool selected. So if you click and hold on that it will bring up that menu and you can make sure that you have the 1st 1 selected. Okay, let's start with the back bodice. So I'm just gonna start clicking, click and drag when I know I'm going to occur. And I'm just gonna start tracing this and you can see where you're going again. if you If you wanna change this back, Teoh straight line without a curve, See how it's curving here? A the end. You could just go back and click on the anchor point and lets you do that. So I'm just gonna keep going around here, creating my curved lines and my straight lines and I'm gonna trace around the hole bodies here. And when I get to the dart, um, you can kind of true the darts a little bit here if you want. Teoh. What I like to do is I just create a point at the bottom of this little circle here and then I curve that up so that the the side of here, the side see Miss, is open almost perpendicular to the side seam. But then I'm getting a little bit of a curve there at the bottom of the darts so that when the dark is sewn together, it's kind of true a little bit, and you may have to kind of trial and error with this. But that's how you do that. And then to close it, I just click back on the point l at the neckline where I started and So now I have the basic outline of the bodice. If I turn off the base layer, you can see now I've got that. So now I need to go in there and draw the darts in turn the base layer back on, and I'm gonna draw my darts using the same pin tool. And I'm not gonna close the darts on each other. So when I finish a dart, I'm just gonna have escape. And then I will do the other dart here, starting at the edge of the at the side, starting at the bottom and escape to finish that. Now, I might want to zoom in a little bit, cause it may not be right on that line, so you can see there. It's not sell. Just use my direct selection tool, the White Arrow. And I'm just gonna click first on that point to make sure I just selected the point that I'm gonna drag that point up so that it's right at the bottom seam, and then I'm gonna go back and check. I'm gonna turn my base layer off and there is the back bodice with the darts. Okay, so now I'm just going to the same same exact thing for the front bodice. Okay, so now you have your outlines traced. You may also want to add a little bit of ah, um, angle here at the dart to true that dart. And you can easily do that. You may have to kind of trial and error this since you can't actually, like, fold this thing on top of each other to try to treat the dart. So I'll usually just kind of eyeball it at first and I'll add an anchor points. I'm gonna press the plus sign here, and I'm just gonna add one here, and then I'm gonna pull that out. Actually, when I had one more and I'm gonna add one here, and then I'm gonna use my direct selection tool, the white arrow, and I'm just gonna kind of pull this out a little bit. Um, and once you sew this up, you may come back and adjust that a little bit to make it a little bit more true so that your dart actually aligns with the side seen once its own. Okay. And so that's it. You got your bodice pieces done. Now we need to add a seam allowance. But before we do that, I'm going to turn the space layer back on. I just want to, and I still have it locked to start the base layer lock. I just want to drag, click and drag to select using the black arrow. So I'm just selecting all of the items on that pattern layer. Um, but I want to keep this base layer turned on just so I can kind of see what I'm doing. But I'm gonna zoom out here. I'm just command and minus sign on the keyboard, and I'm gonna copy these over because I want to keep the original things that I drew as they were and not alter those. So I'm gonna copy these over to my art board. So if you have those selected, then you're just going to hit the altar or option key and you're going to click and drag. So now you have a copy of these over here on your art board. And if I turn off the base layer, you can see now have these here. These are the originals. And now I'm going to create a seam allowance around these pieces here So let's zoom in here to our art board. One thing to once you start working with your art boards. If you're clicked on the art board, you can hit command zero or control zero, and then it will zoom in to fit the art board in your screen here. So I've got my art birth art board fit in here. I'm also going Teoh do ah, group select here again. I'm just clicking and dragging. And then I'm gonna group these items together. Group that, and I'm gonna group this separately so that now I can move these around without accidentally moving a dark out of the way into the wrong position. Okay, well, no, actually, scoot this over a little bit. I'm actually scoot this over a little bit closer here to make room for my seam allowances. I'm gonna center this in my art board and then to do the same allow is this is this is like , super super easy. Get the direct selection tool, the white arrow here. And since this line for the outline of the bodice is all one shape, you should be able to do this just fine with the with the direct selection tool If you're shapes are not connected. If they're not like a continuous shape, you know, a continuous path around the shape, then you want to make sure that that that they're all connected, all the points are connected to do this. So you're going to select the just the outline here. We're gonna goto object path, and we're gonna offset the path I usually do. A 5/8 inch seam allowance for woven fabrics. Um, that's why typically do for the patterns that I designed to, because I I like that it leaves the option open for doing. It's a nice seam allowance for, like, French seems or flat fell. It seems it's easier to work with in that regard. Um, so that's really up to your personal preference what you want your seam allowance to be, But I'm gonna do a five eights inch seam allowance here. I know that 5/8 inch is point 6 to 5 inches, so I'm just gonna type in 50.6 to 5, and you can preview if you want to, and you can see it will create your seam allowance. I'm gonna click, OK, and then I'm gonna do the same thing for the back bodice here. Object past offset path. And it's already defaulting to 0.65 inches because it was my last setting preview and click . OK, now you don't need a seam allowance on the fold. Obviously, this centre seam allowance would be on the fold, depending on the type of garment that you're you're designing. But for the Sloper actually want to leave the seam allowance on the back bodice because I'm gonna put a zipper in here. Some believe that seam allowance there, but I am going to take it off of the front bottom, so I don't need a seam allowance on the fold on the front bodice. So to do that, you can see it automatically. Kind of has anchor points here. I'm just going to use my minus going to hit minus, which is going to bring up the remove anchor point tool. And I'm gonna remove those anchor points now, this is sometimes not a perfect things. If we zoom in, you might notice. Like it looks OK down there. Sometimes when I do, this is a little bit out of alignment. But for this it actually looks like It's pretty much in the line. If for some reason you do this and maybe it's off of alignment, you can just kind of hold the shift key and screwed it back over to being alive. And you'll see it'll snap to that line. That mine looked okay. I'm just gonna leave it as is. So now I've got seam allowance all the way around the bodice, except for at the centre front scene and for the dead bodies. I've got a seam allowance all the way around, including the centre back, because I'm gonna add a zipper here. 5/8 inch seam allowances. Pretty. It's a pretty large seam allowance. It's pretty generous. Seen Reliance. So if you're on Lee printing out your bodice, since we're not doing any sleeves here, you probably really don't need a seam allowance here at the arms I and the neck because it is going to sort of affect how the bodice fits on you so you could remove the seam allowance. Here you can you can remove it. Now you can just go ahead and, like, try to trim it out and online and so that you only have a seam allowance at the shoulder and the side seams, or you could just leave it in. Trim it later. That just depends on you. But that's just something to keep in mind when you're fitting your bodice because the seam allowance will start to kind of effect, how it feels around the shoulders in the neck line. I'm gonna leave it like this for now. So we have our front bodies in our back bodice, and I'm just gonna label these front bodice. It's really tiny. So I'm gonna bump that up, okay? And then I'm gonna call this one back bodice, okay? And I'm just gonna move these to be kind of in line. Okay, so now we've got our front bodice in our back bodice, and it's on our 24 by 36 inch sheet size. So in the next exercise, I'm gonna show you guys how to set up a printing templates so that you can print this at home on letter or a four paper size 7. Printing: Create Tiled Sheets: So now we want to set up multiple art boards that are gonna become are tiled sheets for printing at home. We've already got one artwork here, the 24 by 36 inch. And we can use this one for copy shop printings that you wanted to print this with the printer that has a large format printer. You could and put it all on one sheet. But if you want to print at home, I'm gonna show you a really easy way to set up your printing. That makes that seamless. Um, OK, so first, we're gonna go over here Teoh our art board tools. So the art art board tool is this little icon here that has, like, a little like Marquis looking symbol on it with the page turned down. And when you have reverted, says art board tool. So I'm gonna click that, and it brings us into this of you where we can edit the art boards. So while we're in this view, we can't edit anything on the heart board. We can Onley draw and edit art boards and art boards are basically just your pages in the document. So right now it automatically has his art board one selected. And if you look over in the properties window, you can see the information about this art board. So his name is art Word one, and you can see it's the first art board here, too. It shows you in the label here. I want to rename this our board. Teoh 24 about 36. Because I know that this is R 24 about 36 inch sheet of paper and then press enter. Make sure you press enter on that and it's renamed that. And actually, if you want to, you can put a copy shop 24 by 36. Let's just go ahead and do that, Okay? Enter so that our borders set up. I'm gonna click off of that art board. Now we're gonna create new art boards for printing at home. So you hold on the space bar, I'm gonna drive this over out of the way. So I'm just gonna click and drag, not too worried yet about the size, because I can change that over here in the properties window. So, in the properties, I know that I want to make this art board 7.75 inches. 27 and 3/4 inches by 10 and 1/4 inch of 10.25 inches and enter. And this size is a bit size that fits on both letter and a four paper. So this is gonna be once we print this. This paper size is gonna work well for both European and U. S paper sizes. OK, so that's our first art board. And then I want to create a tile of several art boards that were then going Teoh lay our pattern on top. So to do that, I'm just going to make sure that selected and I'm gonna copy that our ports. I'm gonna hold down Ault. You can see the double arrows come up time to click and drag and hold down the shift key until it snaps right next to the other art board. Did it again. Let it snap and do it one more time. I think three pages will be a meth. Actually, I think we're going to start. Let's start with three cross and then next. What you want to do is select all three of those, and then we're gonna drag those down So it's like those Ault drag and I'm holding down the shift key to just to keep everything in line until it snaps to the edge of this and do that one more time and it snaps in place. So now I have a tile of nine art boards. I think if I kind of eyeball it, it looks like my pattern pieces. I could probably arrange those pretty easily to fit on this this nine cheat tile here. So the next thing I want to do is just remember these. You don't have to remember these for this step, but I like to just because I it just drives me crazy to see our board three copy for just like this, a super weird way of numbering things. So I'm gonna go through and re number. Each of these are bored, so I know that my my main sheet is our board number one. It's got the one up here, so I'm just gonna name these and chronological order, So I'm just gonna call that too from three. Oh, and one thing you want to make sure that you're pressing enter to each time someone rename all of those going across and over it across and over that way. Okay? If you happen to move in, our board on accident just controls the It'll go right back to where Waas. Now, I have all of my art boards remembered Have nine tiled sheets here. One large sheet here for a total of 10 sheets. This is gonna help us to when we go to printing to specify which sheets we wanna print, So just something to keep in mind. So now that I have all of my heart worth art board set up, I'm just going to click on the selection tool that's going to exit the art board editing screen. And now we're back in normal editing mode. So once you have your art board set up and you're a normal editing mode, when you move things around your art boards, we're gonna remain stationary. They're not gonna move. So those air in place and you're good to go. One thing you can dio is you can layer our boards on top of one another. So if you wanted Teoh only have one working layer that you're using as your pattern just to kind of keep things organized. you could come in here, select all of these and then moved over so that they're right on top of your 24 by 36 sheet . So if we did that here, that's one way to do that. And then what is this? We gotta were dartboard here happening? Couldn't delete that. Make sure you seven controls. There we go. So if you if you wanted to have everything kind of in one place, this is the way to do it. And I could just click the arrow. So now I have all of my art boards in one place. And if I'm making changes to this pattern, it's gonna show up on both my 24 by 36 sheet and on my tiled cheese. And when you print, you're not gonna like if I print the 24 by 36 sheet, it's not gonna show any lines or anything from the art boards of the letter sheets. Okay, so we've got that set up. Now I want to show you guys how to position things and create guidelines for lining of your prints. This is only gonna apply Teoh our tiled sheets so I want to move my pattern just a little bit to get it kind of centered in there. And also, I'm trying to sort of this kind of becomes like a puzzle because you want to get your pattern positioned in a in a way, that it's easy to line things up. You're not cutting things off in a weird way. So, like my front bottoms and actually it's gonna scoot that over a little bit. Sometimes it's unavoidable, like you may have a dark that's kind of in the middle. It just depends on your personal purpose. How you want to line that up. Um, but I think I'll leave that about right there. So now I've got my front bottoms and back bodice, and I actually managed to get this on to six sheets, so I'm gonna go back into my art board editing, and I'm just gonna delete these last three sheets, and I'm just holding down shift and clicking to select multiple. Delete those okay? And then I'm gonna click back out of that. So now I've got that all set upon there and really a 24 by 36 sheet is is too large for this if you're printing with a copy shop so you can edit that sheet depending on how you want to print it to. So the next lesson. I'm going to show you guys how to set up a guideline later so that you can align your sheets once they're printed. 8. Printing: Create Sheet Alignment Guides: Okay. Our next step is to create a layer for guidelines on the edges of all of the sheets. And this is gonna help us line up the sheets once they're printed. So let's go back over to our layers. I'm gonna create a new layer, and I'm gonna lock the pattern layer for now. Now, we're just working on layer for and let's go ahead and rename this to guides, okay? And make sure that that is selected and we're just gonna draw guides on the edges of these sheets. The way that I like to do this is with the rectangle tool. So if you click and hover over here, if it's if it's still only a lips tool from earlier you can click and hold, and then it will bring up several shapes. Want to make sure that the rectangle tool is selected, and then I'm just gonna draw. Let's zoom in a little bit. I'm just command and plus to zoom in, and I'm only drawing this around are printed home sheets of the letter a four sheets that we just created with the art board tool, and I'm going to create a square that goes around all the edges, and I'm gonna go over here to stroke. I'm gonna change the stroke, Teoh. A gray kind of a medium. Great here. And I'm going Teoh up it to about five or six points. So it's a pretty thick line all the way around the edge here. And then also for my stroke, I want to make sure that the align stroke is set to align stroked to center. So I want this stroke to be the center of this line so that there is a little bit of line on either side of the stroke. Okay, that's good. They're gonna click off of that. Just see how it looks. Let's zoom in a little bit. Okay? So next you can see there, there's a long if I hover over the lines right in the center. There, in that, that line is basically straddling the edge of the sheet. Some unseen back out. Now I'm gonna draw another line. Just gonna use the line tool. Gonna draw that straight. Here. Hold on the ships key and I'm drawing these lines right over the border of each of these sheets where they butt up against one another in a drawling here. Okay, so now I've got If I turn off my pattern layer, you can see I've got boxes drawn all the way around my art boards here. Term of pattern layer back on. Actually control. You can leave the pattern layer offer this this part. Okay, so now I want to create some sort of graphic that helps me know which she goes next to each sheet. So the way I do this is with little circles, and I'm just going to click and hold of here. I'm gonna get the Ellipse tool, and I'm gonna click, and I'm gonna create a little circle that is 1/2 inch. So 0.5 inch by 25 inch to make a perfect circle there, that is. I'm going to remove the stroke on this one. Seem to click on the little box here, remove the stroke, and then I'm gonna fill it with gray. Okay? You use the same gray. You can really use any color you want for this. I always go with gray because I like to limit the amount of colors that I'm printing. If I'm printing out these patterns to kind of state color on my printer. Okay, so I'm gonna move this little circle it zoom in just to kind of get in here a little bit. I'm gonna move this circle from the centre right to the corner here. So I want to move this little dot here so that it's centered in each border of the sheet where the sheets meet up together. The 1st 1 I'm gonna do, I'm gonna move it here to this location. So to do that, I need to move it over 7.75 inches and down half of 10.25 So what's that? Five and 1/8. So let's go to control shift and him to move horizontally. 7.75 inches. And you could turn on preview for this. I don't always like to turn on preview just because I feel like sometimes stuff goes way out of the field of view and it throws me off. But for this, we're gonna do horizontal 7.75 inches and then vertical. We're gonna do five 0.1 to 5, which is five and 1/8 so that it'll go halfway down this sheet here. And let's preview that. Okay, so now we're going to click. OK, so that one moved there, and then we're going to Let's zoom in here. I also want to put one right here, so we're gonna do another control shift move. And this time we want to do negative 3.875 which is half of 7.75 I just did it on a calculator earlier, So we're gonna do negative 3.875 inches, and then we don't need to do anything vertically, cause it's already set up to move halfway, which is half of 10.5 or two and 1/4. Um okay, so I'm gonna copy that. So now we have one here. We have one here. Resume out. We can see that those align at the center of those borders. Now, I want to create a numbering system so that when I'm laying out my pages when I put everything I know which sheets go with which sheets. So what I'd like to do just create a little number on the dot So I'll do, um, one A for this one. I'm gonna I'm gonna leave this vertical here because I want I want thes shoots to remain vertical. I'm gonna actually bump the size of this downs that'll fit inside the circle animal. But this year, zoom in and copy that over. So now I have to Alfa new miracle indicators here about how to line this up. Okay, so I'm gonna leave that and you can also change the color of these. I like you like to make these white. I think it just looks nice. So to do that and I'm gonna make this bold so we can really see it. OK, so now we've got this one lined up. And then for this one down here on the horizontal sheet, I'm just gonna copy this over, So I clicked on it holding on Ault. Copy that here. And I'm gonna call this one to a and again. I'm gonna copy that down. So by do that. Now I've got do the lines indicate word line up the sheets on each edge, and I'm just gonna copy these over now that I've got my numbers and letters and my little dots organized, I'm going to copy this over, so I want to dio Oh, and another good thing to Let's go ahead and group these together some in a group. The 21 A markers and the circle. I'm gonna put those in a group, and then I'm gonna put this in a group by itself. Group that zoom out. So now, basically want a copy? This one? You can just select it now because it's in a group. I'm gonna copy this one over here. So I'm gonna hold down the Ault key, click and drag and almost gonna hold on the shift key so that it stays straight and it usually will snap right to the center. And you can zoom in here and make sure that that is where you want it. Okay, so I got that, and then I'm going to this one, since it's gonna be a little bit harder to move it directly to center here, I'm just gonna use the move command again. So control shift in. And it already defaulted to the 7.75 So we know that it's moving 7.75 inches to be in the center now, and I'm gonna click copy, and then I'm just gonna hit control D to do that one more time that that will repeat the thing that I just did. Okay. And the last thing I want to do is selected these two and control shift move. This time I want to dio zero horizontal movement. I just want to move these down 10.25 inches so that it will be in the center of the one below. And I'm gonna hit. Copy. So now I've got all of those little alignment dots organized. Now, I just need to go through and change the numbers so that they are in chronological order because you don't want all of them that have the exact same number. Someone zoom in here, do that quickly. You can just hit this. So I'm gonna call this one, be so that basically, all the ones on the top row that are going horizontal are the number one. So one B one b and then click out of that back up and I'm gonna rename the So I've got to a gonna call this to be me. Zoom in a little bit here, this one's to be I'm just gonna rename those that way and with the, um type tool you can just click on it and edit it. Even though this isn't a group mode, it's a really quick way to at the the letters and the numbers without having to isolate the group. Click off of that. I just wanna make sure that you click off of it every time. Every time you were in tight mode. You want to click off of it one time before you hit your space bar to move. Otherwise you'll put a bunch of spaces in your numbers. Here, cook off, and then this one is gonna be three, said three a three a and then three b you look off, zoom out, and now you have all of your alignment. That's ready. So if you turn your pattern layer back on, you can see that this is how things will tile once you print it. 9. Print the Pattern: Okay, now we're ready to print everything out. I'm just gonna zoom in really quick so you can see that our seat edge is right here, right here in the center of these two lines, when we print will have a will have a thin grey border around each sheet. And then we also have these little thoughts for lining things up. That's why I wanted to make that line pretty thick. One last thing I want to do before we print is create a test square. So if you click on the rectangle tool click here, let's do a two inch by two inch test square. So it did not show a stroke. So I'm just gonna add a stroke to that. I'm just gonna make it black, and I'm gonna do a one point stroke. I think that's plenty. You don't want to do the stroke to Why? If you're border is too thick, it might end up making the square bigger than two inch test square. So two inches square and then a stroke of one point. It's just a black stroke, and I'm just gonna label this test square and press enter and then press two inches by two inches just to let us know that is the size of our test squarely museum in here. But that here and I'm going to make that center. If you look up here in the properties, you have a paragraph you can just aligned center there. You can also do that through the paragraph window. There's a little thing. It was like a paragraph symbol. So you can do that There. There's gonna line this in the center of the test square kind of snaps to the center there . So now when you print this out, you can measure the test square to make sure that everything is printed to scale. Okay, so you have two options here, and you can print directly from illustrator, which is fine. And to do that, you would just go file print and it's gonna ask you which sheets you wanna print. You can do all our boards or you can do a range. If we were just printing the print at home, she's we would actually do sheets two through seven, because remember, sheet one is our 24 by 36 inch sheet. So there you can see how that's gonna kind of lineup. This is fine if you wanted to do this. This is absolutely fine. And I would actually recommend that you change the placement to zero and zero so that it's right in the corner of the things that right now it's lined up with the corner. So even if this is cut off a little bit by your printer, you now know that you can just but the corner of these sheets against the border without having to trim the sheets. So that's one thing you can do so many. That's when when you do it, you can print that way. That's fine. But I'm gonna actually cancel that, because I want to print to pdf first, cancel to print to pdf. We're just gonna go file, save a copy, and then it's gonna come up. Bata Sloper dot ai, which is a W illustrator. We're gonna change this to Adobe Pdf because we're gonna we're gonna print this to pdf that I'm actually gonna take out copy so about a slumber, PdF. And we want to do a range. We're gonna do sheets two through seven because this is our print at home sheet. First and then click save and this comes up. I don't really You don't really need to worry about this right now. Any of these advanced settings. So, General Illustrated default, That should be fine. I'm gonna save PdF, and it's gonna minus set up to automatically open the pdf. You can see it printed right to the edge of those art boards. This is actually a little bit smaller than a 8.5 by 11 sheet of paper or a or a four sheet of paper. So the border is around there, you can see the edge there, and so it's a few printed this out. You'll have the borders here to use as a guide. Okay, um, one thing to keep in mind if you If you want to print this out, as is you can just file imprint and you can do auto portrait landscape. If you do that, it's gonna center the sheet on your paper. I like to do portrait because what it does is it takes it right back up to the corner here so that I don't have to turn the she's so that when I when I print this, it's gonna cut off a little bit of that border. But I know that the edge of my sheet is where the border is. So I can just print this out as is, and align the sheets, sported a border and want to make sure that your printing actual size you don't want to fit . You don't want to shrink oversight spaces. You want to make sure this is exactly the size that you drafted it at so that it'll print to scale because even a small discrepancy from the 100% scale or the actual size will affect the fit. So if you click, print is gonna print that, and now you just have the sheets for your print at home. Okay, so I'm gonna cancel this. Now I'm gonna show you how to print the larger sheet in the clothes here. Now, if you want to print the 24 by 36 sheet, you're gonna want to remove all of these guides cause you don't need those for the 24 by 36 a sheet. So if I go over to my layers, I'm gonna turn off guides. My test square is missing. Accidentally put test square on the wrong way, Or someone turn the guides back on. I'm gonna select the test square and control X, and I'm gonna put that on the pattern. Later, someone unlocked the pattern layer, select the pattern layer, make sure that selected, and I'm gonna control shift V, and that's gonna paste it in exactly the same place. Okay, so let me turn the guys layer back off so that we're not printing those, and I'm going to file. Now you can print directly from illustrator if you have access to a copy shop. But since you're probably gonna be sitting this off to be printed, we're just gonna go straight to save a copy, and we're gonna call this body's Sloper Copy shop 24 by 36 we're gonna change the file format. Teoh, Adobe, Pdf And we're gonna do sheet one. That's correct, because we only want to print the 24 by 36 inch sheet that we created and we're going to save. Um, and I made one earlier. I'm gonna replace that so it brings up this dialog box again. You really don't have to worry about any of this right now. I'm gonna save PdF and on that opens it and you can see now I have a 24 by 36 sheet with my test square. And I can send this to a copy shop to be printed. Or I can print this on a large format printer if I want to. Um and that's how you do that. Now, one thing excited this If you're building a pattern or maybe you want toe, rotate these around or reposition them all you have to do make sure again that your guys layer is is either turned off or locked. You can come in here. Since we grouped this, I'm actually gonna group the name and here with this, too. So Control G, the group that controlled G. If we group this, we can start to rotate these and reposition them as one piece so you can start to kind of play around with the position of you are pattern pieces, too. Do you want to make sure that everything is grouped together so that you're not moving anything weird out of the way so much gun control Z to get back to where we were. But that's another way you can start to rearrange things on, and that's basically all you have to do to create your Sloper pattern and print it out at home or with a coffee shop. 10. Cut + Sew the Sloper: 11. My Finished Sloper Notes: and this is my finish, Sloper. So I'm actually really pleased with the way this turned out, so it's not bad for a first draft. There are a few minor adjustments I could make to this, but overall, it's pretty good. And since this isn't really a class about fitting, I'm not gonna go into the details on that right now. But I did put some links down in the class description below. If you want more, resource is for fitting information and Sloper information, all kinds of good stuff that has been helpful to me. So that cost script should be sure to check that out. A couple things I want to know about this one. I drew lines at the bust in the best points, just to kind of help me make sure that everything was heading in the right place. There. I also removed the seam allowance from the arm, side and neck line just to make the fitting a little bit more straightforward. If you were adding sleeves on this, you would do the fitting with the sleeves on that, since we're not doing sleeps for this taking the seem line salt makes the fitting of a lot easier for that. Also, I installed a really long zipper in the back, right in the centre back. Seeing there is this from the bottom up. This just makes it easier to get the Sloper on and off, and I don't have to worry about pinning myself in and out of the Sloper or have helped with that. That's a really quick and easy way to do that. 12. Thank You!!: I want to thank you so much for joining my class. It really means a lot to me. This is my first sewing pattern drafting related class, and I'm just really excited to share this one. So thanks for following along, and you can check out more about me and my patterns at Pattern Scout studio dot com. And you can follow me on Instagram at Pattern Scout. You can also check out some of my other classes that I have available here on skill share by clicking on my profile picture. I have classes on running a small handmade business. I have classes, hon Wholesale. I have classes on pattern design for textiles. Ah, lot of creative classes and some stuff related to business to that. Something that you're interested in. So definitely go check this out. And anyway, thanks again for watching. And I hope to see you in the next class. OK, bye.