Foundational Sewing Skills: Sew A Zippered Bag From Scratch | Robyn Burgess | Skillshare

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Foundational Sewing Skills: Sew A Zippered Bag From Scratch

teacher avatar Robyn Burgess, Sewist & Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

10 Lessons (1h 16m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Getting Started

    • 3. Setting up Your Sewing Machine

    • 4. Stitching Seams and Basting Stitches

    • 5. Pressing and Hemming

    • 6. Sewing Curved Seams

    • 7. Preparing Your Zippered Bag Pattern

    • 8. Adding Your Zipper

    • 9. Finishing Your Bag

    • 10. Final Thoughts

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About This Class

Unleash your inner sewist by learning the fundamentals of sewing and creating your very own zippered bag!

Whether you’re looking to fill your closet with made-to-measure, runway-worthy garments or clothes that fit your figure and your budget, these foundational sewing skills will help bring your wardrobe to the next level. At 6’2’’, Robyn Burgess struggled to find clothes that fit both her inseam and her bold style. Tired of never feeling comfortable in the clothes she owned and constantly contributing to the fast fashion industry, Robyn decided to start making her own clothes. What began as a side project has turned into an entire custom-made wardrobe and a sewing blog beloved by a community of other curious, fashion-forward creatives.

Now, with years of stylish pieces under her belt, she’s ready to teach you how to fill your closet with your own handmade clothes. Today, it’s your turn to learn sewing fundamentals like how to set up your sewing machine, the differences between common sewing stitches, and how to sew durable seams and clean hems—all while making a chic zippered pouch.

In this easy-to-follow class, Robyn will help you overcome common beginner challenges and become a confident sewist in no time!

Working alongside Robyn you'll:

  • Prep your sewing machine like the pros 
  • Learn basic sewing terms to set you up for success
  • Sew secure seams and stitches
  • Make expertly crafted hems and curved seams
  • Combine everything you learned into a beautiful zippered pouch

Plus, Robyn reveals how you can make your very own customizable pattern with just paper,  pen, and a ruler!

Whether you're an aspiring designer, thrifting enthusiast, or hand-sewer looking to level up, by the end of class you'll have a solid grasp on machine sewing fundamentals, and a cute bag to show for it. Armed with Robyn's sewing secret weapons, take the first step to sewing your own clothes like the pros!

In this class, Robyn uses a classic sewing machine equipped with sewing thread, a sewing needle, and a bobbin. You’ll also need fabric, paper, a pen, a ruler, paper scissors, fabric scissors, an iron, and a zipper. To continue your sewing journey, explore Robyn's Learning Path Sew Custom Clothing from Scratch.

Meet Your Teacher

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Robyn Burgess

Sewist & Designer


My name is Robyn Andrea Burgess. I’m 6’2″ and I’ve been this gloriously tall since I was 13. I’ve always loved making every hallway and sidewalk my runway, but finding fashions that fit all of my proportions is a struggle. I started my fashion design and sewing journey in 2015 to build a wardrobe of quality garments that fit my inseam and my bold style. I hope Styles InSeams will inspire you to create outfits that show the world how fabulous you are!


Follow me on Instagram for daily sewing inspiration.

See all of my me-made looks on the blog and shop my sewing pattern designs to make your own.

See full profile

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1. Introduction: At the beginning of my sewing journey, just six years ago, I didn't even know how to make a napkin, but now I make almost all my clothes from scratch and it all started with learning the basics. [MUSIC] Hi, my name is Robyn Andrea Burgess. I'm a sewist and founder of Styles In Seams, a fit of set sewing blog and indie pattern business. I started sewing six years ago after decades of struggling to find clothes that fit my 6"2 body, my budget, and my bowl cheerful style. Now, I am proud to say that I have not bought clothes since 2018. Everything I wear, I create from my imagination and my sewing machine. If I can learn this crap, so can you. In this class, we're starting super-simple by creating a clutch with a zip fastener. Through this project, I introduce you to a set of basic sewing skills that you can use when creating a range of gardeners. First, I'll start by showing you how to set up your machine. Then we'll talk about preparing fabric before I walk you through common stitches and closures. We're going to get you past all of the speed bumps that slow down or interrupt your sewing journey. You can become a competent creator faster. You should take this class if you're at the very beginning of your sewing journey, or if you started to sew but something's not going right. Listen, I have been there. I'm here to walk you through the fundamentals of the craft. By the end of this class, you'll feel empowered to start exploring the world of DIY fashion and make your first garment. I'm so excited you're here and can't wait to start this journey with you. Let's dive in. [MUSIC] 2. Getting Started: [MUSIC] Welcome. I am so happy you're here and excited to teach you some of the key skills that I use in almost all of the sewing projects I create. I started my blog styles in scenes three years ago, and it serves as a vibrant public record of how my skills have improved and how my style has developed over the years. But when I bought this sewing machine in 2015, I couldn't even sew napkins, I literally quit for an entire year because my stitches weren't straight and my makes were embarrassing. Frustrated with fast fashion, I later set a goal to not buy any clothes for a whole season and pushed myself through the intimidation to start creating garments. My competence builds as I take on increasingly challenging designs, add flare, detail and personal touches wherever I want. I have a mass and entire wardrobe of my own creations, from dresses and jump suits to skirts, shirts and pants. Now, I only buy clothes to support friends and emerging designers. I'm completely self-taught and living proof that if you set your mind to something with time, patience, and practice, you can amaze yourself with what you achieve. In this class, I'm going to teach you a set of fundamental sewing skills on a simple bag design. Once you make one bag, maybe you can continue to practice by making a few as gifts for your friends. My hope is that once you master this class, you go on to explore my other Skillshare classes that will take you on a learning path from a total beginner to a competent sewist. What are we going to need for this class? First, and most importantly, a sewing machine. Here's my baby. It's a brother, CS6000i I got it for under $200 and I've had it since the beginning of time. But you don't need to break the bank and get anything fancy just ask around borrow it from someone who got a machine to sew masks during the pandemic or has had it in their closet for the last two generations, it'll still work as long as it goes straight and keeps the stitches up. Now that you have your sewing machine, let's talk through the other materials for this class. First, get yourself some paper, a ruler, and a pen or pencil so you can create a pattern. Next, two scissors, paper scissors and fabric scissors do not mix up the two. The paper scissors are just for paper, the fabric scissors or just for fabric. If you use your fabric scissors on paper, it will dull the blade, and that's like the Number 1 no, of sewing. Next, you're going to need some needles. We'll talk about how to choose the perfect needle, but keep in mind, the needle will depend on your fabric. Next, the materials for making your bag and actually putting something through the sewing machine. You want some scrap fabric. We are using scrap fabric to keep it low stakes so that you can make mistakes and not worry about it. Find an old bed sheet, find an old shirt that has stains on it, a kitchen towel, whatever you have that you don't mind ruining because we're just going to practice to get started. You want some thread. You want a zipper for our last lesson, and you want some fabric for the finished clutch that we're making. I've chosen some denim that I've actually gotten from a thrift store, and it's been perfectly upcycled but this is a great fabric for this class because it's a little heavier than say, a quilting cotton or something that you would make a top out of, which is going to be really great for holding up our clutch. It's also really important that you have an iron and a little bit of water with it. Pressing is one of the most important parts of sewing and we'll talk about pressing and a few of our lessons. Now that you have all of your materials, meet me in the next lesson where I'll teach you how to set up your machine [MUSIC] 3. Setting up Your Sewing Machine: [MUSIC] Welcome back. So excited you're here to get started. We're going to start super basic as if you've never touched a sewing machine before. We're going to wind up some bobbis, choose some threads, choose some needles, and start with your first test stitches on some scrap fabric. First thing you need is some thread. I have this gutermann thread. It's good to get a good high quality polyester all-purpose thread. Don't get a little cheap dinky thread because it'll break and then expletives will come out. [LAUGHTER] The first thing that we're going to do is wind up a bobbin. With a sewing machine there are two parts. There's the upper thread and then there's the bobbin. You have a thread on top of your fabric and you have a thread below your fabric. We always start by winding our bobbins because we're taking from this spool and putting it onto this little bobbin so that we can put it down into the machine. Let me show you how to wind that on my machine. Your machine might be a little bit different, but same basic principle. Go to your owner's manual if you need the instruction of how to do it exactly for your machine. First things first, we need to put the thread on the machine, and then we need to put the bobbin on the machine. My machine has this thread pen that I can pull up into place and drop it on. Then it has this pin for the bobbin. I'm going to stick that on. Now my machine has a diagram to show me exactly how to thread the bobbin. But if yours doesn't have a diagram, check the instruction manual. I'm going to take the thread, put it through this a little bit, whip it around here. We're creating some tension for it. Then we're going to do a few winds on the bobbin just to get it started and then click it into place. Now my machine is on, and what I want to do is start looking at the panel here. It doesn't matter what threads setting you have it set to, because as soon as this locks into place, your machine probably knows that it's ready to wind the bobbin. If your machine has different speeds settings, turn it all the way up. Next thing is to push the bobbin into place and get ready to spin. I'm going to put my foot on the gas and just go a little bit slow to see what it does. I want it to start spinning and I want to see it starting to wind around this bobbin and add extra thread to this bobbin. I'm just going to pedal to the metal, go as fast as I can and let's watch the bobbin wind. [NOISE] When the bobbin stops going, that means it's full and it's ready to use. What I'm going to do is take my fabric scissors or really any scissors for this and just snip the thread. Now it's time to put the bobbin into your machine. We're going to open up this little case here by pulling the button back and letting it pop open. Then we're going to take the bobbin and following the diagram that it's here on my machine, I'm going to pull it around and loop it so that it goes down into the machine the right way. The diagram is really important here because if you flip your bobbin the wrong way or you don't set it into these exact steps, then it's going to mess up the thread tension and it's not going to sew right. Actually, the very first thing that I do, if I find that my stitches aren't going correctly, I take my bobbin out and I put it back in the right way because that's probably what's wrong. I'm going to hold the end of the thread and I'm going to hold the other one with my right hand. I'm going to put it down into the bit here. I'm going to pull this with some tension to make sure that it's tight. There's an arrow here that's telling me to take it to the left and up. I'm going to take it with my left hand, bring it to the left and up, and then around this bit where there's another knife that's going to cut it off and give me some loose thread. I've held it here with my right hand the whole time because otherwise I'd just be pulling it and I just be pulling thread off of the bobbin and I don't want that. Now I'm just going to snap the cover back on. Our next step is choosing a needle. You can buy schmetz needles or you can buy these organ needles, which I love getting in bulk because they're way cheaper. You don't pay for the plastic. But what's most important is making sure that you choose the right type of needle for your fabric. You want to use a universal style needle for most woven fabrics and you want to use a ballpoint needle for most jersey fabrics or knit fabrics. Here I'm going to be using some woven scrap fabric and it's medium to light weight. I'm going to choose a gauge that is a little bit lower than I would use for say, denim. The gauge here on the pack is pretty simple. You get this 70 over 10, which is like the European or British and the American style. But only thing to remember is the lower the numbers are, the finer point the needle is, and the thinner the fabric is going to be. Big number which, and they usually go up to about 100, 120 even over like 14 or 16. That would be for a really thick fabric. For a finer fabric, you can use something like 70 over 10. To put my needle on my machine, I like to use a tool that we all have and it is a dime. Because where the needle goes, there's this little screw. Now a screwdriver to come with my machine, but I don't like it, so we use a dime. You just want to use this dime to loosen this up to the point where you can grab it and get it open. You need to take the needle and with the flat side of the shank facing back and the round side facing you, put it in here and push it up as far as you can go. Then you want to hold that in place and screw it on tight. Then I use my dime and I just get it nice and tight. It's time to thread the needle. The first thing that you need to do is make sure that your needle is in its upper most position. If you have a button that moves your needle up and down, you can start there. I put it down. [NOISE] Let it come back up. If you don't have a computerized machine, use the hand wheel and turn it towards you, always only towards you and just crank it until the line on the hand wheel matches up with the line on your machine. We're going to take the thread off of the machine first because it's set up the wrong way to go down into our needle. Next, we're going to follow our guide again to get the thread down into the needle. We're going to come through here and then we're going to bring it down. We're going to hook it around down here. We're going to bring it up. We're going to hook it around this metal hook. We're going to bring it down. We're going to go through this metal pin next to the needle. Now we have it out in front of our needle. Hold it pretty firm. Give yourself like a quarter of an inch and push it through the needle. Now with your left hand, take it from around back and pull it through. Your needle is threaded. Last thing with a needle and thread before we can start sewing is to pick up the bobbin thread. Some machines don't require you to do this, mine does. I'm going to hold it with my left hand and I'm going to use my hand wheel to take the needle all the way down and all the way back up. What will happen is another thread from the bobbin will come up. You can see it right here. I'm just going to pull it out a little bit. Now we need to test and make sure your needle is threaded correctly by doing a couple of test stitches. In order to do the test stitches, I'm going to take some scrap fabric. I'm just going to cut off a little section. I'm just going to take a little square off of this fabric that I can use for a few test stitches. When we do this first one, we're just going to use one piece of fabric. That's okay. Once we do a seam, we'll graduate to two pieces of fabric. The first thing that you want to do is lift your presser foot. Now the presser foot that I have on here is the universal presser foot. It comes with practically every machine. It's this real basic one. In order to lift it, there's a little lever here. I'm just going to take that lever and lift it up, that allows me to put the fabric underneath. What I want you to see here is that there's the presser foot and then there are feed dogs. It's these little rigid bits that are beneath the presser foot. There's a button in the back to release it and it can just hook on when I drop the presser foot down into the right spot. Put your fabric down on your throat plate here. Put the presser foot down. Always, always put your presser foot down. Then I'm going to hit my button to drop my needle down. I just have it set to a straight stitch. I'm going to do a test run just going a straight stitch through this length the fabric. Get your presser foot, put your foot on the gas, and let's go. [NOISE] When I get to the end, I'm just going to bring up the needle, bring up the presser foot, and you probably have something on your machine where you can cut the threads. There we go our first stitches. On my machine, I change the stitches using this menu by hitting these buttons here. If you don't have a computerized machine, you might have a dial and you can just click that dial so that it lines up with the stitch you want. [NOISE] I'm just going to keep doing more and make sure that the settings on my machine are correct. I'm actually looking at the top stitches and I'm looking at the bobbin stitches in the back. I want to make sure that they're laying nice and flat and I don't see any little loopers coming up the wrong way. If I were having issues, it might be tension. So I would change my tension dial here to a different setting or it could be that I miss threaded my machine or my bobbin is inserted incorrectly. If you're having any problems getting stitches that look correct and you'll know they look correct because you can look at the hem of like anything that you're wearing and see what stitches are supposed to look like. If they don't look like that, my first recommendation is to take the thread off your machine, take your bobbin out, turn your machine off, turn the machine back on, put the thread back in, put the bobbin back in, pull your thread back up again and start over. It might sound like that's silly, but it's the total turn the printer off, turn the printer back on. It could just be that the bobbin went in upside down and you didn't realize it. It could be that you missed one of these hooks in the threading. It could be any number of things. But by not having to figure out what that exact problem is, you troubleshoot by just starting over again. It takes 30 seconds, and 30 seconds is worth the 20 minutes of frustration of having bad stitches. In addition to controlling your speed here on the speed dial that I have on my machine, you control the speed that the machine moves with your presser foot. If I press lightly, it goes slow like this. [NOISE] If I press it down fast, just like a car, it goes fast. [NOISE] In this lesson, we've set up our machine by winding our bobbin, choosing a needle, threading the machine, and doing our first test stitches. I want you to practice, practice, practice and every time there's an error, just do a factory reset or check your instruction manual to make sure the settings are correct. [MUSIC] Meet me in the next lesson and we'll talk about seams. [MUSIC] 4. Stitching Seams and Basting Stitches: Now that you know how to set up your machine, let's start stitching seams. Seams are basically when you take two pieces of fabric and make them into one so that they're one solid. You have seams at your sides, you have seams at your shoulders. You have seams wherever you're trying to make a shape with some fabric. They're super essential to sewing. We're going to keep it super low stakes here and stick with the practice fabric. I want you to use something that you do not care about, like something you've up-cycled, something that would be trashed. Basically we're going to recycle something into fabric that you can practice stitches on so that you don't get frustrated when you maybe mess it up. The key here is to go and go and practice and get good at it before we move on to your good fabric. Grab a little bit of scrap fabric and let's get started. First things first, when you're sewing two pieces of fabric together, in almost every case you want to put right sides together. If your fabric has a print, it'll be easy to tell which is the right side. If it doesn't have a print, it might be a little bit harder, but just choose the side that you want to be the wrong side and go ahead and mark it so that you stay consistent. Next thing that I want to do before I start stitching is getting a little bit of practice with using pins to hold the two pieces of fabric together before I put them under my machine. I have some pins here. If you're going to ever be ironing with pins, it's good to invest in some glass head pins because they won't melt under the heat of the iron. We're going to take our pins and we're going to add them to the seam that we're going to stitch to hold the pieces together so that they stay aligned when we put them under the presser foot. The most important thing when pinning is to have the pin going perpendicular to your seam. Because if you do it parallel, what will happen is your fabric will bunch up a little bit like this and you won't be able to keep it straight and good. The other thing is when you're keeping it perpendicular, it's good to have it so that they face out in the direction that is the outside of the seam. That way it's going to be easy to pull those pins out as you sew. As you get more confident with sewing, you might not have to use as many pins, but it's perfectly okay to put a bazillion pins in your garment. It'll take a little more time, but it'll get the results you want. One of the most important concepts in sewing is maintaining seam allowance. Seam allowance is the amount of distance between where the stitch line goes and the edge of the fabric. In a lot of patterns, you'll see a seam allowance of anywhere from 3/8 of an inch or 1 cm up to 5/8 of an inch. I'm going to show you how to figure out how much seam allowance you have on your machine. What I want you to do is lift up your presser foot and just take it off. Then grab a small ruler, in this case I'm using a seam guide, and rotate your needle so that it's almost down. Now, you just want to measure the distance from where the needle position is to where it says 5/8 of an inch. The reason why I'm doing this is because different machines have different needle positions, and sometimes the marketing and the placement of that 5/8 of an inch seam is different. For me, stitch number zero-zero is 5/8 of an inch. This is the stitch where the needle is in the leftmost position. But if I put that needle down and bring it back up and say I were to choose number 1, where the needle goes in the middle part of the throat plate and measure it, I would find that it's actually been moved over by an eighth of an inch, and now it's only a half of an inch from that 5/8 line. You don't have to do that every time. It's just good to do it the first couple of times that you remember the right needle position for getting a 5/8 of an inch seam allowance. The seam allowance will be so important when it comes around to using a pattern to sew a garment. Garments are designed and the pattern is made with a certain amount of seam allowance. It's important that you remain consistent that whole time. Otherwise, your garment will end up too small or too big. Your points might not match up, and you effectively will be sewing something outside of the design that's intended. Let's put our presser foot back on and get our fabric under there. Now that I know that this line on my machine here is aligned with 5/8 of an inch and I'm going for a 5/8 of an inch seam allowance, I'm going to go back down to stitch zero and place the fabric under the presser foot. Remember that you have pins in here and needles and pins don't like each other. What we're going to do is remove the pins as we sew, just before we get to where the pin is, to make sure that we're not going to break our needle. Broken needles are inevitability when it comes to sewing, but let's avoid them where we can. I'm going to drop the needle and pay very close attention to the first couple of things that I do. First, I'm just going to get rid of this first pin, get it out of the way. Whenever you start to sew a seam, what you want to do is start your stitches, backstitch a little bit, and then keep going. That backstitch is going to secure your stitches in place because it goes this way and then back that way and back this way over the stitches that you've originally done, and it gets a nice and secured and locked-in place. To start that, I'm just going to press my presser foot and do, say, three stitches. Nice and slow, 1, 2, 3. Now on my machine I have a button that does a backstitch, so I'm going to press that, 1, 2, 3. Now that we've backed stitched at the beginning, let's sew the seam and then backstitch at the end. [NOISE] If you just hold down the backstitch, it'll go for three slow stitches. Just watch them and then go forward again. Lift up your needle, lift up your presser foot, cut it off. We have our seam allowance, which is about 5/8 of an inch. We have our stitching line or a seam line, and then this is the wrong side of the fabric. What does that look like on the right side of the fabric? When you open it out, you should see a pretty clean line. You will see a little bit of perforation where you see all of those stitches going through the fabric. But if you've done a nice tight stitch, which is the right size for your fabric, it should not be too noticeable or too much of a problem. You can test the strength of your seam by just pulling at it, yanking at it. What may happen is you'll see that the fabric doesn't like being pulled. That might be a good sign that you need some interfacing or maybe you need to do a smaller stitch just to be a little bit more secured on the fabric that you've chosen. But it's nice and strong here. It may be a little bit difficult for a new sewist to keep the fabric going straight. But remember the presser foot and the feed dogs are moving the fabric for you. You don't need to push it, you don't need to pull it. You basically barely touch it, and slightly guide it. But there's some more stuff that you can do if you want to make sure that you're keeping a good straight line. One thing you can do is take some tape and put it down here on your machine on the line that you want to follow. This is somewhat helpful when you're doing a tight seam that's marked here. But if you needed to do a really wide one that isn't marked, you could also use the tape to keep that consistent. Now, and I'll just show with the same fabric, when I put the fabric on here, I have even more to watch. Instead of watching up by the needle, I can make sure that it's saying right up next to this line through the whole length of this scrap. Now that you've learned about how to stitch a seam, let's actually talk about how to do different types of stitches on the seam. The first we're going to do is basting. Basting is when you use long machines stitches to sew something. Basting is really helpful because it allows you to sew stitches that you can easily remove with a seam ripper. They can be temporary or they can be permanent. But let me show you some basting stitches and show you how easy it is to take them out. To set yourself up for sewing basting stitches, you want to put the fabric under, drop the presser foot, but what you need to do is increase the length of your stitches. Right now we've just been going off of the factory setting, which is whatever happens when you turn your machine on. Now we're going to get a little bit more intentional about the length that we choose. On my machine, the length setting is right here. I can move these plus and minus buttons in order to choose how long I want the length to be.. Right now, let's hit the Plus and go as high as we can go. Most machines max out at 5.0. I'm going to stitch the seam so you can see exactly what 5.0 looks like. These are basting stitches, which is a 5.0 length, and if we compare this to the stitches that we did at the 2.5 length, we can see that they're much longer. When we baste, we don't usually want to backstitch at the beginning and the end, and we'll talk about that in a second, but what we do want is the ability to easily remove those stitches. Let me show you a device that we use to remove stitches. It's called a seam ripper, and allows sewists talk about how the seam rubber is the big bad, how they hate having to use one. But I actually think this is your friend. It allows you to practice something, to sew it in a temporary stitch and then easily remove it. Just so easily, you can take these and pull out these stitches, and because I didn't backstitch at start and stop in order to secure my stitches, I can take this thread and I can pull it together or I can pull it all the way out, remove the bobbin thread, and that seam is gone. Now it's your turn. You know how to do stitches, you know how to do seams. Play around with some different tests fabrics and have at it. 5. Pressing and Hemming: I'm going to put the machine aside for a moment while I show you pressing. Just as I've said that back stitching is essential to sewing seams, so is pressing. I will say that your seam is not done until it has been pressed. There's a couple of different ways to press it so let me show you how. Pressing is so important because it will help your seam to be flat and straight and it also can help your stitches melt into the seam a little bit and be secured. When you're pressing, it's really important to choose an iron setting that corresponds to your fabric. I have some cotton here, so I got my iron pretty hot, pretty much up to the max. Cotton and linen can take a nice hot iron, but polyester and rayon, for example, cannot. Make sure that you check your iron settings and choose the appropriate temperature. There's two different ways to press the seam. One, to press it to a side, and two, to press it open. When I say press it to a side, I mean, open up your seam, take your iron and push the whole seam allowance in one direction. Use the appropriate steam settings for your fabric. It's good to have a nice steamy press because what you're doing right here is you're setting it in and it's going to stay that way. Now that I've pressed the wrong side of my fabric and I've got my seam allowance going in one direction. I'm going to flip it over and I'm going to press it on the right side of the fabric and just get rid of these wrinkles so that it's nice and good to go. With pressing you want to put the iron in place and hold it down. It's not like ironing a shirt where you're trying to cover a huge distance. You just want to let it get in there. This is the right side of the fabric and this is the wrong side of the fabric with the seam allowance pressed in one direction. Next, we're going to take our other test and press our seams open. The reason why you might want to press your seams open is so that you don't have too much bulk. Especially if you're using a heavier fabric, like denim for example. If you look inside your jeans, you'll find that some of your seams are actually pressed so that the seam allowance is going in two different directions. That's so you don't have a bulky line that you can see from the outside of the garment. In this instance, I'm going to take my fingers and I'm going to open it up. The first thing I'm going to do is just finger-press it. With a good fabric like this that holds a press, it's actually pretty effective. You can just use your finger and get it to stay the way you want it to stay. Now that it's finger pressed it's easier to get that iron on there. I'm going to take the iron, and again we're not doing a bunch of motion, we're just holding it down and letting that heat work its way in there. Now on the right side of the fabric, we're going to do it again and get rid of those wrinkles. This is what it looks like on the right side of the fabric. You can see a beautiful straight line, no wrinkles here. On the wrong side of the fabric again, beautiful straight line with the seam allowance butterflied open. Cotton is a really easy fabric to sew with and it holds a press really well. If you're working with a finicky fabric like a polyester, especially a thicker one that doesn't take a press really well, you can use a tool called a clapper. A clapper is a wooden tool that basically you use with steam. After you've put the iron down on the fabric, you hold the clapper on top and it absorbs the steam into the wood and it locks that press in place. These things cost $20 and you don't have to have it as a beginning sewist, but as you're leveling up, it's one of the fun ones to have. Now that we've learned how to press, I want to put you on to hemming. Hemming is something I'm sure you probably want to know about because if you've ever needed to alter a dress or a pair of pants, chances are you're shelling out cash to a tailor or a dry cleaner to hem that garment for you. I'm going to show you how to do it really simply. The first step that you need is some fabric. We're using a scrap here for a little practice. What I want you to do is put the fabric with the wrong side facing up. Then let's just decide how much hem we want. I'm going to do a one inch hem. What I'm going to do first is tuck in the raw edge of the fabric. I'm going to fold this up about a quarter of an inch. Now I can usually eyeball it, but you can also take something like a seam gauge and adjust this little slider till you get to a quarter of an inch. Use that to measure all the way up and down your fabric to be consistent with that line. What I'm going to do first is now that I've chosen that quarter inch and I got it finger pressed in, I'm going to hold it down, I'm going to use my iron, and I'm going to press it in place. Now because I said I wanted to do a one inch hem, I'm just going to take this and fold it up an inch. I'm going to check all on the line and make sure it's an inch and I'm going to press it down. Now, I want to put a couple of pins in it so it stays in place. When I pin it I actually want to pin this folded up bit, not the edge. Now we're going to go back to our sewing machine and sew our hem. When you're sewing the hem, you have a couple of options. You can sew it on the wrong side of the fabric if you're pretty confident with how good your bobbin thread is going to look. That is perfectly okay. Or you can level yourself up a little bit and sew it on the right side of the fabric. Because I know that I've pressed this at one inch, if I just go exactly at that one inch, it's going to catch right here on the fabric, which is maybe going to go off the edge of my hem. Just to make things a little bit easier for myself, I'm going to use the one inch guide, but I'm going to change my needle position to be over one-eighth of an inch. As I use the one inch guide, I know that that hemline is going to be seven-eighths of an inch from the end. I can just put my presser foot down, backstitch at the start and stop, and sew that line. [NOISE] Now because I moved it over an eighth of an inch, it's about an eighth of an inch from the edge on the inside. But the raw edge is neatly folded in, and on the right side of the fabric, I have a hem. All of the things I've taught you so far, we're going to use in our final bag design. Meet me in the next lesson where we talk about sewing curves, which we are going to incorporate into that bag. [MUSIC] 6. Sewing Curved Seams: [MUSIC] Welcome back. In this class we're making an accessory to ease you into garment sewing. But if you're going to sew for the body, you need a master curves. The body doesn't have any straight lines. It's all in the round. Whether that's your neck, your arm, your waist, your hips, everywhere you go, it's going to be curves. I want to give you some really important skills so that you're comfortable manipulating the fabric and getting it on the machine through a curve, and then also how to press a curve so that you get a nice, beautiful scene. Let's dive in. First things first, we're going to create a really quick pattern so that you have something to use in order to sew your curve. I want you to get a piece of paper and a pen and get your paper scissors ready so we can do this. With your pen, I just want you to draw a pretty generous S, grab your ruler, and let's just draw a straight line down the center of the page. I'm going to find the middle point and just make a little mark. Doesn't matter if it's not the real middle. I'm going to try to be even and go up about two inches above and below the line, make little marks. Then I'm going to go four inches. Somewhat arbitrary. I'm just trying to give myself some guides to work in. I have a nice curve. Now I don't want my curve to be too deep because it will be very difficult to sew and then press flat. I'm just going to go one inch to either side of this line and make a mark here and up here. Now I'm just going to draw an S connecting those points. Now when you're sewing anything, you need to think about seam allowance and seam allowance we've talked about before. It's the amount of distance between the edge of the fabric and where your stitching line is. It's important to have seam allowance because your fabric will fray a little bit, so you need to give it a little bit of extra. You never going to be searching a seem exactly on the edge. I'm just going to add 3/8 of an inch of seam allowance along this line on this side of the line to give me something to cut. The way that you add seam allowance on a curve is you place it down on one section and then you just walk the curve and rotate the ruler as you go. I've just done these little dashes. You can leave them as dashes or you can fill it in. But remember, the dashes that I created are going to be the seam allowance. So that's the cutting line. I'm just going to cut along this line that I've just added for seam allowance. [NOISE] Next we're going to cut this out of some fabric. I'm stitching a seam, so I'm going to want two pieces of fabric. I have this fabric folded over along the salvage edge, which is the edge of the fabric that's finished on the machine that makes the fabric. I'm going to line this up with the salvage edge and then I'm going to pin down the pattern so that I can cut it out. Because you have this nice curve here, it's going to be hard to use your scissors with a flat on the table. You just want to pin in any spots where you need it to stay close to the fabric. Let's take our scissors and cut it out. As you're cutting, you want to try to cut with as long of strokes as possible so it doesn't get all jaggedy. Now we can take the pattern off of the fabric. Now we have our curves here. The next thing we're going to do is take it to the sewing machine. If you're just getting started, I can recommend that it might be helpful to draw in your stitching line so that you have something to follow. It might be a little bit easier than trying to watch your sewing machine and follow it on there. I'm just going to draw that in. Basically I'm trying to emulate this exact line that I had here where I added some seam allowance. Now I'm going to take away a little bit of seam allowance. I like to use this chalk wheel. It's temporary. This doesn't have to be like absolutely perfect because your curve was a little imperfect. But as a good reminder to yourself, if you need a little bit of help following a line and a curve or sewing straight, you can just put it on chalk on the fabric. Let's go to the sewing machine. I did a 3/8 of an inch seam allowance and I can't really see where the 3/8 of an inch line is on my machine, but it could be the edge of my presser foot. I'm just going to measure and check. Three-eighths of an inch is the edge of my presser foot. I can use that as a guide for following the fabric through the machine. Like I said before, let's put the needle down. Let's always backstitch moving forward. [NOISE] Now I'm ready to stitch and as I sew I'm just going to watch the fabric stays on the edge of this pressing foot. I drew the line into that you can have the needle aligned with the line, but as much as possible do try to watch the edge of the presser foot for continuity of the line, rather than watching where your needle is going exactly [NOISE] As you're sewing the feed dogs and the presser foot, we'll move the fabric in a straight line, but you're not sewing straight. This is where it starts to get a little bit tricky. Rather than just letting it push forward, you have to be attentive and you have to guide the fabric. As we start to come to the curve, let's watch it and move the fabric in the direction that we needed to in order to stay consistent. Go slow as you need to here, especially in the curves. [NOISE] You might come to a point in the curve where it seems like it's folding up a little bit. What you can do is lift the presser foot with the needle still down and just rotate ever so slightly to make an adjustment. Make sure that when you do that, the needle is down into the fabric [NOISE] I'm at the end, so I'm going to backstitch. [NOISE] I'm done. It looks a little bit wrinkly, but we're going to talk about that next. Let's move the sewing machine out of the way and talk about how to work with this as a seam. Now, you didn't see me use any pins to sew this. Cotton is pretty good at sticking to itself. But as you're trying this for the first time, I highly recommend using pins so that you can keep your two fabrics together. Now that we have this, it's two pieces of fabric sewn into one. But if I try to open it up, it doesn't know what to do. It's bulky. It won't press straight. I can't pull this around. It's going to look like that. How do we get it into a way that we can press it? How do we get it into a way where it's going to be a shape again once we flip it around to the other side. That's the tricky bit with curves that I really wanted to show. You have to clip curves. There's two different types of curves. There's convex and there's concave. We're going back to geometry here. Convex is where it pushes out. Concave is where it pushes in. This is our convex curve and this is our concave curve. We're going to start with a convex curve. What we need to do in order to make this folder round to the right side properly, is to clip notches into this fabric close to but not through the stitching line. We're going to start with that one. I like to start in the middle and work my way out, but that's a little arbitrary. You just want to go in tight and make a clip, but make sure you don't clip your stitches, if you do, take it to your sewing machine and stitch it again. I'm just spacing these out every like 3/8 of an inch along this curve. This is also why I like using the scissors for it because they are sharp all the way down to the point. Now that I've clipped that curve, it's ready to be folded to the opposite side when I go and press it. With the concave curve, we need to do something a little bit different. We need to take some of this fabric out. Instead of just clipping notches, I'm going to clip Vs. You can start making them ever so often. But you might have to go back in and add more if you don't make them close enough. This is what that looks like now. You can see my notches and you can see my little Vs. It's going to push that off to the side. Because the next thing that I want do is flip this around to put wrong sides together. I'm just going to practice by pushing it out, both of these curves. You can already see it's done its work of creating that shape that I wanted. The next thing that I need to do is just take this to the iron. You can press it around the right way from the inside. But that's not going to do you much good. Better is to just push that out. Use your fingers or use something blunt, not sharp to try to get that shape and to try to get that seam right in the middle. Then it's still a little bit wrinkly, but once we hit it with a nice hot steamy iron, it's going to behave exactly how we want it to. Remember pressing is more about pressing then moving. Let's just press it down and come all the way through this curve. Use my fingers to press it first. You can see it's nice and smooth on both sides. We could have gone in here and trim this seem a little bit more and make that a little bit shorter. But for the purposes of the curve, you see exactly what we did. Now let's just compare it to the pattern that we made. The bold line here is the pattern and the cut line is the seam allowance. This should just about match up with the S we made on our pattern, and it does. I encourage you to give that a try. Do a little bit of practice with curves. Obviously this S is a little bit more extreme than the curves you're going to have on your body more than like your hip to your waist. You won't always need to clip your curves on your body. But it's important to know how to do this so that as you're doing neck lines and facing and some smaller curves and the project we're about to start, you know exactly how to get this nice and beautiful flat finish. See you in the next lesson for drafting and cutting our bag pattern. [MUSIC] 7. Preparing Your Zippered Bag Pattern: [MUSIC] Welcome back. It's finally time to start working on our project and we're going to draft a pattern and start cutting your fabric to make your bag. First things first, get your paper, get a marketing tool, get a pencil, and get a nice curve. I'm using a saucer and let's draft out your pattern. We're going to be making this bag, but I don't want you to get locked into the dimensions. The key here is that we're going to be making a bag with a zipper, a curve of 90 degree angle and no whining, That's about it. Let's create a pattern for making this. First things first, we're going to be sewing the zipper. You have some choices when it comes to zipper. You can either get one like this with a nylon cord which is really easy to saw through. These are your cheapest zippers or you can get a zipper like this with metal teeth. A zipper like this is usually known as a denim zipper and it's really super sturdy and strong. It's really great for bag-making and it's great for jeans, so this is what I'm going to choose to use for this project but I really encourage you to do some practice stitches if it's your first zipper. With a little cheap one like this you can find it on Amazon. They're cheap, buy a bunch of them. Get some practice in. We're going to take a zipper and I'm going to measure it out in case I didn't know how long it was. My zipper from the very top of the metal to the very bottom of the metal is nine inches which is good to know. This is sold as a nine inch zipper, but it's important to know that exact measurement because I'm going to be drafting my bag around the size of this zipper. Now that we know it's nine inches, I want you to draw a straight line close to the top of your paper. That's going to be the upper bound of our bag. Now I want you to draw a line that is at 90 degrees from that line. One of these clear rulers that also is line is perfect because you can see through this ruler and just have it perfectly lined up on that line. That's going to be one side of our bag. I'm going to make this into a whole box. Let's just go around but on this side, the bottom and the other side here I'm going to give myself a little bit of space just because I'm going to add a little bit more of seam allowance. Now I have a little rectangle that seems pretty simple, doesn't it? I just want to take one of these corners and turn it into a curve, so I'm going to use this bottom corner to draw my curve and I'm just going to line up the plate. You can use anything that you have that makes a nice curve. You could use a washer, you could use a roll of tape, a cup, whatever. I just thought that this was a good size for my bag, so that's what I've chosen. I'm just going to follow the curve. When you're sewing curves just like I did in the last lesson, it's helpful to have a little bit less seam allowance than you would have with you when just doing straight lines. Instead of doing 5/8 of an inch or 1/2 of an inch which you sometimes will see I'm just going to do 3/8 of an inch or one centimeter because that's completely adequate for what I'm doing. Just line up my little 3/8 of an inch and draw it straight down and then from this side as well and now I'm just going to walk the curve and add the 3/8 of an inch all around. We said that we wanted the width of our bag to be nine inches so I'm going to make it nine inches plus seam allowance. We've already added the seam allowance on this side, so I'm going to measure over nine inches and then add seam allowance to this side. I'll just make a little dash up top here where it's going to go then I'll measure over 3/8 of an inch and make another little dash and then I'm just going to use this bottom line to make it square and draw it in. This internal line with the curve and all around is the bag and then this external bit is the seam allowance that I'm going to leave on there. When we're cutting we're cutting the paper out along the seam allowance, we're cutting the fabric out along the seam allowance and we're sewing along the stitching line [NOISE]. Now we have our paper pattern and we're almost ready to cut our fabric, but before we get into that I want to talk to you about grainlines. I have this giant piece of fabric because it help explain grainline. What is the grainline and why is it important. Keeping things simple, the grainline runs parallel to the salvage edge. The salvage edge is the finished edge that comes off of the roll as the fabric is produced. The fibers that are running parallel to this are almost always the strongest fibers and they're going to have the least amount of stretch, so it's not going to stretch any in this direction. Also because this is a non stretch fabric it won't stretch much in this direction, but it's still has a little bit more give. You don't want the stretch to go up and down. You don't want gravity to make your clothes sag so you need to make sure that when you're sewing, you're always aligning the vertical lines of the pattern with the grainline so that they sew up and hold their shape. The other problem is as you're sewing it, sometimes the machine can make those fibers stretch a little bit extra, so if I were to just throw this pattern onto this fabric in any old way, what could happen especially if I were sewing something bigger is that it could just get ever so slightly stretched because along the bias there's a lot more stretch here. I just want to make sure that it's instilled in you to always be respectful of what is the grainline of the fabric, to always draw a grainline on your pattern, and to always make sure you cut out on the grain. Like I just said, we're going to do the grainline top to bottom. I'm going to draw that onto my pattern. This is usually how you'll see a grainline denoted on a pattern. They'll be little arrows telling you the direction, the way that it's supposed to go. We're ready to start cutting, let's get the pattern and the fabric together. I'm just going to lay the fabric out. This is a nice, well-loved piece of fabric. I have made bags out of it. I have made a course out of it, I made a belt out of it. Keep using your remnants. Don't throw them away just because you're done with the project. On a denim if you don't have a grainline on here anymore because again this is a nice well-loved piece of fabric, you can look at the lines in the fabric, and these lines are going to run at a 45-degree angle. Find the 45-degree angle, don't get too dizzy in it and create a straight line from where that 45-degree angle is. When we're cutting a pattern again, we're going to want two of them and so I'm going to fold over my fabric so I can cut them both at once. If you're being conservative, you just want to fold it over enough that you can fit the pattern on there while keeping the grainline how you want it to be. Now again, you have a couple of choices for how you get this pattern onto here. You can either use pattern weights. I actually use these washers that I got for 1/4 from the hardware store as my main pattern weights, but you can also use pins to hold this down. Grab your fabric scissors and let's just cut along this line [NOISE]. We can fold this up and save it for another project. We're just about ready for sewing. In this lesson, we have created a pattern, learned a little bit about grainline and cut out our pattern on our fabric. Now we're ready to bring everything [MUSIC] together. In the next lesson we'll add a zip and finish our bag. Let's go. 8. Adding Your Zipper: [MUSIC] Welcome back. I'm so excited that now we're going to work on our bag. The first thing that we're going to do is sew a zipper. Let's take one side of our pattern and put the other side of the pattern away. Because we've made this pattern about three eight of an inch bigger than our zipper, we're going to sew up to the zipper on the seam allowance, but not through this metal. In order to sew the zipper, you're going to need a zipper foot. The key to a zipper foot is that it has these indentations so that the needle can go really, really close. As you're running the zipper foot down the machine, it's going to go along the side here and the needle can go up pretty close to that zipper. A regular presser foot sticks out all the way through that width and so it's not possible to get so close to the zipper teeth. Let's switch out the presser foot. The other thing is that once I put the zipper foot onto my machine, I need to move the needle position. My default needle position of my machine is over to the left, but I need it to be in the center in order to really take advantage of the zipper foot. So I'm just going to switch that to the stage where the needle positioning is in the center. I can see here on the pattern of my machine, the location of that needle positioning by the dot that's just right in here, so I know if I press this button and go up to one, it's going to move it over to be centered. I also do like to double-check and so before I put all of the pressure of the machine going fast, I like to turn my hand wheel and just watch where it goes and make sure that it's not going to hit the presser foot when I put the needle down. Let's line it up so that the outside edge of the zipper matches with the outside edge of our pattern, with the right side of the zipper facing the right side of the pattern. Then I'm just going to adjust it so that we have three eighths of an inch seam allowance at top and at the bottom. If you want it too, you can measure that one to your fabric and make a little mark. Do that if you can't eyeball it. Now that I know that I've given myself enough clearance on both sides for my seam allowance, I'm going to take some pins and I'm going to pin the zipper to my pattern. We have the zipper face down against the pattern, and what we want to stitch on is this edge. I've just put it under the presser foot and I'm into the seam allowance back here. I have the zipper foot as far over as I can go. This stop is going to make it a little bit difficult to actually stitch super close right there but that's perfectly okay. I don't like breaking needles and there's a lot of metal here., so once again, I'm going to use my hand crank to put the needle down safely and make sure it's in a good position before I start sewing with my presser foot. Again, first thing we're always going to do is, go forward three stitches, go back three stitches, and back-stitch. Now that we've back-stitched, we're ready to sew. Go slow and be careful around your zipper pull. See, it's going to get a little stuck so I'm just going to lift it up over it. You might have to maneuver a little bit, it's okay [MUSIC]. All right, we're done. I'm just going to snip these and get rid of any loose threads. I'm going to take my other side, and I am going to basically do the same thing by putting the right sides together. You can either put it on top this way or you can flip it over and put it on top like this. You want your pattern to match up so the curves are in the same direction. Once again, I'm going to give myself the three eighth of an inch seam allowance on either side of the zipper pull and stop, and I'm going to pin this to the fabric. We're about to do the exact same thing but on the other side. Now because we're on the other side, instead of starting with this zipper pull, we're going to be ending with the zipper pull. Just make sure that you have the other side of your fabric out of the way and that the seam allowance isn't showing either. Let's put this back here in the seam allowance, we haven't moved our needle at this point, we haven't moved our stitch settings at this point, so I'll put the needle down, we're going to back-stitch at the front, stitch, and then back-stitch at the end. If you get a little stuck, it's just because the presser foot is getting stuck against the stop here. So just to lift up a little bit and put it back down and try to get that on top of it. Just do a little practice and make sure it moves [MUSIC]. We're now at the tricky bit next to the zipper pull, we're trying to go as far as we can and just finish it out in the seam allowance. Back-stitch, lift up our needle, lift up our presser foot, and clip. By the way, these little thread snips are super cheap and my favorite thing to have at my sewing machine, because they are easy to hold in your hand while you're working, so you can go fast. Let's put our sewing machine aside, grab our iron for the next step. As we're pressing it open, you'll see it's open with a zipper in the middle, so we're going to press it down this way. Be mindful, I'm using a metal zipper, which means that it is going to get hot. You can burn yourself if you press it super hot and then you touch it so we're not going to touch the metal after I do this. That's the wrong side. Let's do it on the right side as well. Now it's pressed nice and flat and you can see our beautiful zipper, and on the wrong side, it's nice and open. Let's give the metal a second to cool before we go back to the sewing machine. We were just introduced to the zipper foot, and now I want you to meet the edge stitch foot. The edge stitch foot is used for edge stitching, which is sewing a line of stitching close to a seam line. Generally speaking, an edge stitch is one-eighth of an inch away from a seam line, while a top stitch is a quarter of an inch away from a seam line. Both are basically top stitching, but by definition, they're slightly different. We're going to use the edge stitch foot so that we can sew a line of stitching close to the seam line here so we can make sure that our seam allowance and our zipper tape stays away from the zipper as we have the clutch. The other thing that this will help do for us is, finish the edge of this fabric. Because, you'll remember, we didn't do anything with this denim and you can already see it's fraying even though we only cut it a few minutes ago. I'm going to do a row of edge stitching and then we're going to come back and do a row of top stitching, which I think you should try your hand at just to see how it works. Let's switch out our presser foot. Put this one on. I don't usually turn my machine on and off, but I do try to keep my foot far away from the pedal whenever I'm changing the presser foot so that I don't accidentally put the needle down into my finger. The purpose of the edge stitch foot is to effectively help you get that line. It's going to go right in this [inaudible] of the seam line between the zipper teeth and this denim and that's pushed back. Right now because I'm in the center and I have the edge stitch foot mostly close, they're basically in the same line. But remember, I want to stitch an eighth of an inch away from the edge, so I'm going to move the position of my needle by switching down to the zero-zero stitch so that I can get an eighth of an inch away from the edge. Let's make sure that we have enough of your fabric underneath of the needle. A common problem with sewing is trying to start sewing exactly on the very edge of the fabric but that's not going to work for you because the feed dogs need a little bit of something to grab onto. The reason why we have a little bit of seam allowance is so we can start in from the edge and push it back past the needle a little bit so we have something for it to grab onto and push through the machine. I'm just going to fold this up a little bit and I'm ready to start stitching [MUSIC]. Just a word of caution, as you get close to the zipper pull, you might get it caught a little bit in the edge stitch foot so go a little bit slow and make sure it can find its way without problem. You might need to lift up a little bit to get it over the hump and if it still won't go for it, just help it out a little. We're at the end, let's back-stitch. Split off and cut it. You can see how that edge stitch foot helped us to achieve a perfectly straight line. Now, if I had to do that free hand just with like a normal universal foot, I wouldn't have had that level of control. But because this little edge went down in here, it kept it perfectly straight for me. That's another really good hack for a beginner, so it's also for someone who's more intermediate, even. Use your presser feet to help you keep those straight lines. I'm going to take and do it with the other side now and go a lot faster [MUSIC]. I have my row of edge stitching. Now again, I challenge you to go and do another row of top-stitching. Top-stitching again is a quarter of an inch away from the edge, so it's just another eighth of an inch away from your first row of stitching. I'm just going to widen out my edge stitch foot a little bit so that I can get that quarter of an inch. Press it down just to confirm I like the width [MUSIC]. There we go. So let's just clip all the threads off. All right, our edge stitching is all done and we got some nice, slightly imperfect top-stitching, but it keeps our fabric from fraying too much because we have these rows of stitches securing it. The last thing to do with a zipper is just cut off this little excess that we have at the top and the bottom because we don't need it. In the next lesson, we'll finish our bag. Let's go. [MUSIC] 9. Finishing Your Bag: [MUSIC] The first thing that we're going to do before we close up this bag and stitch it all together is open up the zipper so that we'll be able to turn it to the right side once it's done. Get that nice and open. Otherwise, you're going to have problems. [LAUGHTER] The next step again, right sides together. We're just going to fold this over and match up the edges all along the bag, and then we're going to put pins. Put as many pins as you feel you need to really hold this together and make sure it doesn't shift as you're sewing. I like to put it into key pivot points. I start on the outsides of the corners, or start in the middle of a straight line, and then bring them out to the edges. As we take it to the machine, we're going to stitch all around the curve here, all the way down to the corner where we're going to pivot and we're going to bring it back up to the top and backstitch once we get here to the zipper tape. Back at our sewing machine, let's take the edge stitch foot off and put our universal foot back on. You remember that we put a three-eighths of an inch or one centimeter seam allowance on here. Remember where it was on your machine for three-eighths of an inch. We're going to be starting in the zipper teeth, but I want you to start a little bit in. Again, because I'm up close to this metal, I'm going to start by putting my needle into the fabric with my hand wheel and making sure that it's not going to hit metal. I'm going to sow a couple of stitches and then backstitch as always. It's a pretty long backstitch since I didn't start at the edge. Now that we've gotten it started, we can be off to the races. I'm going to go just a little bit faster. [NOISE] We're starting to come to the curve. Remember what we learned about sewing curves. [NOISE] Guide the fabric as you go. [NOISE] As we come close to this pivot point, remember we want to come to about three-eighths of an inch away from the edge before we turn. I'm going to bring it down to that point and then pause to show you. [NOISE] One more. Now it's time to pivot and the way that you do that is leave your needle all the way down into your fabric. Bring up your presser foot, rotate it 90 degrees and put your presser foot back down. Make sure that the needle does not leave the fabric as you're doing that so that it can have the next stitch be going in the opposite direction without jumping any stitches. [NOISE] We're just going to keep sowing with that three-eighths of an inch seam allowance until we get to the end. [NOISE] A word of caution because you're up with a zipper teeth and you're close to this top, it might be a little bit tricky at the end, just go slow, [NOISE] backstitch. [NOISE] Lift up your needle and time to trim. Remember what we talked about in the sewing curves lesson. This is a convex curve, so we need to take little v's out of it so that when we turn it around to the opposite side, it will go nice and flat. That's the first thing that we're going to do. Remember, don't go through your stitching line. If you do, you can always just stitch it again, but try to avoid it. They don't have to be perfect. The key is that you just want to remove more fabric from the edge than you do from the inside. [NOISE] The next thing that we're going to do is clip the point of this pivot point at the 90 degree angles so that when that turns to the inside, it doesn't have bulk in there and you can get a nice angle point at the corner. The way that you do that is by coming at about a 45-degree angle to it and clipping across, but not through that seam line. There's still a bit of bulk here and here, so I'm just going to take that angle in a little bit further in both directions. [NOISE] We're almost done. The only thing we have left to do is to finish our scenes. There's a couple of different things that we can do, but I want to talk about the really easy things that don't take a lot of equipment. The first option is to use pinging shears in order to trim the fabric down in these little v's that will keep it from fraying. Another thing that you could do is use your sewing machine to sow a zigzag stitch along the edge, if you have an Overlocker, you could run this through the Overlocker to show the overlooked edge. But for simplicity sake, and because I have some thinking shares, I'm just going to do this for now. Just come through and take out the bits that are going to fray. Don't worry as much about this curved edge because you've already basically done that. You don't want to take too much away. [NOISE] It's going to be a little tight because you got like six layers of fabric here. [NOISE] This is a little bit messy of a part, but that's okay. We're almost done. Then because these are just a little bit longer, I'm going to take my scissors and just cut these a little bit shorter to trim. [NOISE] Can you believe it? Your bag is just about done, but it's on the wrong side. The most satisfying last thing to do is to take it and reaching through that open zipper. Remember that's why we kept it open. We're going to come with a corner first and we're going to pinch as far as we can into that corner and pull it out. Flip it the right way. We're just going to use our fingers to find that curve. You can use something like the edge of scissors, but make sure it's blunt enough to not go through your fabric and just gently try to push this corner out. The last thing that we do with every single seam that we sow is press it, so one last press and it's all done. [NOISE] That's it, our finished bag. Now it's your turn to bring everything that we've learned in this class together and make one for yourself. Everything from stitching seams, sewing straight lines, sewing curves, and finally putting a zipper in. I promised you can keep leveling up. Check out the class resources where I have instructions on how to add a line into this bag and keep trying to learn new skills every time you sell. [MUSIC] 10. Final Thoughts: [MUSIC] Congratulations. You made it to the end of this class and together we've sewn of bag. You might have never touched a sewing machine before or maybe it's been years since you touched one. But now there's so many skills that you have from sewing straight lines to sewing seams, curves, even zippers. You have so many skills that you can now use for garment making. I really hope that you'll take my other classes and learn more about dressmaking from patterns to fitting. Don't be afraid to experiment with this bag design that we drafted together. You can change it up, add a little squiggly at the bottom, change the curve, play with the handle, add a strap, whatever you want to do, you now have the skills to make anything you can imagine. Please share your creations in the project gallery. I can't wait to see what you sew. [MUSIC]