Drawing Basics: Making art from Simple Patterns | Jillian Chong | Skillshare

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Drawing Basics: Making art from Simple Patterns

teacher avatar Jillian Chong, Self-taught artist/ doodler

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.



    • 3.

      Drawing Warm-up


    • 4.

      Basic Pattern Tutorial


    • 5.

      Class Project


    • 6.



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About This Class

Welcome to the world of line art! In this basic drawing introductory class, you will:

  • Get comfortable with drawing simple lines, shapes and patterns
  • Learn to use patterns to fill in shapes
  • Make a gorgeous piece of art for your home
  • Have tons of fun!

This will lay the foundation for many new art projects where you can incorporate patterns.

For more information, check out the Projects tab!

Music: HookSounds

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Jillian Chong

Self-taught artist/ doodler


Hi, my name is Jillian! I'm a self-taught artist based out of Singapore, and I love using all kinds of media to create art. I think that everyone has the ability to make art, but in different ways.

I was once a telecommunications consultant but I grew tired of suppressing my creative side, so I decided to just take the plunge and do what I love!

You can check out more of my artwork here and my Etsy shop here. You can also head to my Redbubble here where you can get prints, mugs, shirts, stickers etc. with my designs!

See full profile

Level: Beginner

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1. Introduction: Hi, my name is Julia, and I myself taught at this end Creator. My art style is mostly lying at work where incorporate weapons into specific shapes. I get my inspiration for drawing from looking at everyday objects, seen Reese and then helping transform their with people who see this kind of I will always tell me that they would love to draw, but they think that it is too hot. They do not be, do not have that kind of talent. They don't know where to start and in this class breakdown the process into easy to follow steps. Sure, we hear the tips and tricks off, joining basic patterns and applying them in your heart. And really everyone changed the best. Look out back one night. So no meetings happened to see that baby first, not at the same level as everyone else, but you will definitely get better already over time. So even for myself, when I first I simpler and smaller pieces mostly mandalas and slowly progressed to larger, more intricate pieces, even mixing different times off media with patience and practice, you will definitely be able to do the same, so going over thing too much really getting something drawing. Why you are getting at the end of this class is, hopefully more confidence to continue drawing, learning and growing. And over time, I hope you multiply bigger challenges. Share your people and meat pieces. He's played with pride in your home. So I really hope you join me on this class and get your journey starts. 2. Materials: Okay. First off, the materials you need for this class is simply any printer paper or rough paper you have at home for your practice sketches. You also need to print out the pattern worksheet, which we'll cover later. But don't worry if you are not able to. You can still follow the class without a print out for the class project. I recommend a heavier at paper as your ink pen. One bleak. True, the papers easily. You can get any utt block from your store. I usually use a deal around the 200 GSM paper, which I find adequate to withstand most things Marcus and even watercolors. It's also s it free, which means it will last longer with no discoloration. I like some papers tohave yellowing and spots after a while, and what's important is that it's pretty reasonably priced. It's also better to get fine green paper, which means the paper is smoother and less texture. That will make it easier to draw on, and you'll get smoother lines for drawing tools. You can use any medium you prefer for the practice exercises. I normally use a pencil, and you'll be easier to erase any mistakes for the class project, I will be using a black ink pen. You can choose to use a Sharpie or any other colored pen, but I do not recommend using a gel pen as thieves do not dry quickly, which may cause you to smudge your artesia drawing. I normally use a Sekera pick mom micron pen. I always prefer using a thicker nip in this case, the 0.8 m m. As I feel that picture lines stand out better. And it's also more forgiving with any little mistakes you make. And this is especially good for beginning this. This pen users pigment ink, which means it doesn't dissolve us much easily when you at other mediums on top of it, such as water colors or marker pen ink. And so you can easily add colors to your completed drawing. You can get any other pen, but preferably with archival quality ink, especially if you're having other mediums on top of it. Aside from that, you'll also need an syriza and a ruler if you choose for drawing lines. So once you've gotten everything ready, it's time to begin the class 3. Drawing Warm-up: Hi, guys. Let's get started. This exercise were at as a warm up, especially for those who have not been drawing for a while, because this just helps you loosen up your wrist. And as you draw you, notice your movements are gradually becoming less upward and a little more natural. Because this is a practice, I'm just using normal printer paper. You can also use your sketchbook if you prefer, and a pencil to start. Begin by plotting two points on the paper and connect them. You can try to draw the light in different directions, and as you get more comfortable, you can start drawing multiple lines with or without the points. Try to get the lines to be evenly spaced. This will help you in pattern making later. Don't feel too pressured to get everything perfect. There is just to help you get back into the groove off drawing. You can't even draw some squiggly lives and just have fun with it. Next, you can also draw some spirals and circles. I personally like to draw these as I find it very terra beauty, so don't rush it. Just take your time. Remember to try out different directions off the spirals as well as different sizes for the circles. You didn't even draw some basic shapes like triangles, squares or cubes. Just continue drawing for as long as you light. When you feel that you've had enough breakfast, you're ready to move on to drawing patterns. 4. Basic Pattern Tutorial: hi and welcome back in this lesson. We're going to start withdrawing basic patterns as I've mentioned previously. Patterns are very important in line drawing. They form the building blocks off making line, and for this reason I've created a pattern. What she resource that you can download and print to get you started on some off the basic patterns that I use in my envelope as I go through them with you. This will help you get better Queen that with using patterns in your heart and even making some patterns off your own at the end of the lesson. Looking at the worksheet, you notice a lot off the basic shapes we did in the previous lesson, appearing in most of these patterns. Some of these include those squiggly lines, straight lines and even circles. Okay, so let's dive into it with lineup. Most patterns will be confined in a certain shape that you are trying to fill so we can start off by drawing these patterns in a box for most patents. You want to determine the start and end points off your first few lines as this will help to ankle your pattern. Looking at this first box. I always start by choosing two sides and connecting them with the first few lines. So I'm going to start with this line right in the middle from the right side, stretching down to the bottom line. When making this pattern, I like to go with three lines in one direction and then changing to another direction. But you can always choose to do a variation with more or less lines. So after this start line that I drew, I'm going to change direction and draw another tree lines from here because this box already has the lines drawn in as a sample planning where to start an and may not seem quite so important right now. So instead, I'm going to demonstrate this pattern in a separate empty box, so you get a better idea of how you should map out these patterns. In fact, I've included these bang boxes so you can try out the patterns to be that a guy simply by drawing exactly as the sample drawing or even ending in your own variations. So in this case, I'm going to go with the middle left, going downwards with tree lines as usual from here, I'm going to change direction. There aren't any fixed rules to this, but I generally like to have the lines looking a little more random, so I always make sure that my lines are not facing the same directions. They don't always curve the same way. And this is where some form off planning. Before you start your pattern drawing makes a difference. Now, as you draw, you may notice that you are more comfortable drawing at a certain angle, especially for lines that are moving away from you. In this case, you can always turn the paper to a more comfortable position for you to draw in. And this is what I usually do. And there you have, ah, completely new pattern variation. In fact, this pattern can give you tons of variations just by random izing. Start and end points off each line. You can even very number off lines in each direction. Take this off the lines. How white spaces in between the lines are. The list is endless. Now, as we move on to the next pattern, there's actually a leaf vein design where you can choose to draw a single vein to fill up the entire space you are drawing or to combine multiple veins to fit a bigger she. As usual, you should start with an anchor line. In this case, it would be the vertical lines, and subsequently you can add in the slanting lines now for the next pattern. I normally start with the semi circles as an anchor before I add the segments inside for the second role, I'd like to start off from the top off. The first rose up just a soft. Give it a brick effect because you are drawing this pattern in a confined space, which is this square. They won't always be able to fit perfectly, but this is fine. You do not need to squeeze or scale that pattern to try and fit into the space you're trying to feel. Just draw in the sections that will be able to fit in the space you have available. As you can see, the top off the up doesn't completely fit into the square. This next week pattern is great for filling in irregular or art shapes. For example, flower petal on a tip off a feather just that I always pick a center. But as the anchor with the long stem stretching down to the bottom line. From here, my branches can splay out into different corners again. You wanted to look a little very so make sure the butts are facing different directions. The branches are split at different areas and have a different number off butts on them. If there any other empty spaces, you can just feel that with more branches and butts. In fact, there's even another variation that you can make off this pattern, where you do not feel in the butts. This next pattern. It's a pretty simple one, alternating straight lines. Don't worry too much about getting the lines really straight. You can see my now also a little cook it because I'm joining them freehand. However, if you really want to, you can do this with a ruler as well as usual. Start off with a main anchor line. In this case, I always start from the biggest middle line going down towards the left, an alternative from the right to the left. The next pattern is a sort off cracked earth effect similar to the wheat pattern. It's also great for irregular shapes you normally want to start this pattern from one side of the shape and move in. What's from there? I'm studying out from the top trying to get at least treat the fourth sites for each segment because each segment x as an anchor for the following segment. Be sure the clothes off each segment before you move onto the next. This next button is somewhat off a pin real Pepin, and it has an anchor point in the center. This pattern is good for shapes to be fixed points like this square, and it also works for triangles to start off this pattern. I joined up the corners with the middle point. These mean lines were Eck as the anchor for you to then at in the middle lines in each section, all of the sections lines shoot converts at one of its corners. You can do the same thing with the triangle. A swell. Okay, let's move on to the next pattern, which is a spider web pattern. For this, we used the middle point as an anchor point and draw all the vertical lines spreading out in the different directions. And once this is set, we can get in that slight U shape in each segment. Don't worry too much about getting the segments exactly the same size. This net shape is also an easy one to do. I usually do all the lines in one direction before drawing lines in the opposite direction . You can choose to just do a basic net shape by you, like toe at in circles at each intersection to make it a little more interesting. In fact, to do a different variation, you can even change the circles with other shapes, like diamonds. Oh, trying goes. And so one. This final pattern is a combination off spirals. There isn't an exact anchor point for this one, but I find it helpful to start from one corner. And what in what's to fill up the space you are drawing here? I'm going to start from the top left and make sure that each spiral feats into another spiral. Try to pack them close together so there are no gaps in between again. We want the pattern toe look very so try to make Spiros go in different directions, change up the number off swirls and have some differences in the sizes off each spiral. I tried to make sure spirals next to each other go in different directions, and then you have it Some of the most common patterns that I use in my own notebook that you were learned to apply in the next lesson. Of course, there are a lot more different patterns out there. So if you're ever stumped, do go and look at other artworks to get some inspiration. There also resource us that can give you tips on making patterns. And, of course, you can always make variations off the patterns that you've learned here as how I've shown you with some off the other weapons that we've gone true. You can continue practicing this patents forest long as you like, and you should also try to draw them in pen to get used to it, as this is what we will be using for the final at peace. Once you're ready, let's get started on the class project 5. Class Project: all right. So let's case that on the class project we will be filling in, ah, hardship with the basic patterns that we went through. In the previous lesson for this project, I advise you to use a heavier paper. I'm using a 200 GSM at paper, and this is especially important if you want to add in your own colors later. Now I've got a hit and sketched out the at ship in pencil on a 15 cm by 15 cm piece of paper you can actually see. It's not entirely symmetrical, but I think that's the great thing about lineup the imperfections. Just give it that authentic Hendra on feel, and once you add in the patterns, any tiny mistakes will become even less obvious. However, if you really need a guy, I've also uploaded ah, heart shape, which you can download and copy. We're going to start out by sketching the divider lines in the hut, which people then feel with different patterns in each segment. As usual, I'm going to start off with the anchor line, which will be from the top right, stretching down to the bottom left corner. You should sketch it really lightly as you're going to go over it with the pen Lichter. I'm trying to make the divider lines look a little like leaves thin at the end and fed in the middle. And because we're going for a wavy look, make sure to very the start and end points off each line. If you're not happy with how our segment looks, just go ahead it. Raise it and redraw. - Once you're happy with your heart shape, you can go a hit and run over the lines in ink. - Sometimes I make on the spot adjustments as I draw, so don't worry about the pencil lines as this can be race. Once the drawing has been completed, we're filling in patents. My rule of thumb is not to put any patents that are too similar in adjoining segments because it may cause your patterns to blend too much with each other. When what you really want is for each pattern to stand out, take a look at some off the basic patterns from yesterday's exercise. An example of what I mean would be the alternating line pattern and the leafing. Because both use long slanted lines. A better choice would be instead to put the alternating lines next to the week pattern as both are different and therefore this will make the picture a little more interesting. However, I also do not want you to overthink it and just go with what you feel like drawing. I personally do not feel in each segment systematically as well. I just draw based on what I feel will look good in a particular segment and just go with the flow. If you're concerned about making mistakes in your patents, don't worry too much. Just have some fun. But if you prefer, you can choose to do a light sketch off some off the patterns before you draw them in. But I personally I'm going to draw them straight in with pen, so I'm going to start with an easier pattern, which is the wheat pattern right here. Always start with the middle, but and stop this the anchor. You don't want to pick the butts to tidy, so because this pattern is a little more flowy with some dots, I'm going to use a pattern with a lot more straight lines in the neighbouring segments, starting with the leaf Caperton right here I'm going to follow that up with the Net design in this segment and next will be the squiggly lines over here. When I'm picking patterns to draw, I don't take into account the shape and size off the space that I'm feeling. For example, ah, large area by be a lot more challenging to fill with a complicated or intricate pattern so you can consider using simpler patterns for large areas. Instead, this is one off those great space Philip patents. Remember to spend the paper to make it a little easier for you to draw. To fill in that middle segment, I'm going to go with a simple roll off slightly curved lines. You want to get a good mix off simple and intricate designs so that what doesn't look too clever, this next weapon is so simple and really excellent for awkwardly shaped spaces. They're just a bunch of very dots, starting out with the biggest dots, spacing them out and then gradually adding smaller dots to feel in this. The spaces for this Connor side. I'm just going to use the alternately lines motif, but since this statement actually has wavy bound the reliance, I'm going to do the same and use wavy lines for this. This pattern instead off straight lines because all these surrounding segments have elements off long lines. I'm just going to break it up a little with a cracked earth pattern right here. As usual, I'm going to start from one side and move inwards to fill the segment. Just let the boxes form naturally. Don't think too hard about how to place your lines from here. I'm going to repeat the wheat pattern, but with a variation starting from the opposite direction and going with the hollow butts for this tin segment at the site. I'm just going to feel in our color it center. This next three pointer section here is great for the pinwheel pattern, so I'm just going to put down that center anchor point and start growing out the lines. Next, I'm going to go with the spider web for this fat section right here because it's irregularly shaped. Even if you're spiderweb segments are not really symmetrical. You'll still look fine. I'm going to go a hit and put the orange slice designing this segment and the reason why it fits well here is thanks to this flat line, which is a good starting point for this weapon. That's why I always think that it's helpful to think about how different patterns will suit the area you're feeling for some small, skinny areas like this one. I sometimes you stippling, which is just a pattern with a lot of thoughts. I will normally start out a little more dense and slowly east the dots as it moves outward for the next section, I'm going to do a variation of the squiggly lines, but using only a single, much thicker line going in different directions. I always stop after adding each line to see where at the empty spaces that I can at the next line to and finally I'm going to use the last pattern from yesterday's exercise the spirals to fill up this tiny segment down here with this, all patents I covered yesterday have been used on the hut, and it's really coming together Now. You can choose to repeat some patterns in the rest of the segments, but I really want to try and show you as many different patterns as I can, so I'm just going to go a hit and quickly finish the rest of them. All right, this is the final completed piece. Don't forget to erase any pencil marks that you may have left behind. And from here, you can free meat as is or go a hit. And at some color. And of course, don't forget to sign your artwork. And also do remember to upload your completed piece to the class project so everyone can admire your beautiful at work. 6. Closing: Thank you so much for taking this class. I hope you had lots of fun, picked up some new skills and will continue making lots of that. See you again in my next class. Bye.