Digitize & Upcycle Your Watercolor Paintings Using Photoshop

1. Learn How to Transform Your Watercolors: Have you ever made a watercolor painting that would be perfect if you could just change the color, spacing, or sizing? In this class, we're going to cover everything you need to know to turn your not so favorite watercolor paintings into beautiful digital images. In this course, I want to show you how to totally transform your watercolor paintings. We'll learn how to change the color, spacing, and arrangement of your watercolors in photoshop. You don't need to know how to use photoshop to take this course because I'll show you every step of the process. At the end of this course, you'll be able to totally transform your watercolor paintings and use them for tons of different projects online and in print. This course will inspire you to look at your watercolors in a whole new light. Finished paintings that you used to throw in the trash because they had one little error will suddenly become collage elements that you can turn into a whole new series of projects. 2. What You'll Learn + What You'll Need: In this course, you'll learn how to create watercolor paintings that are ideal for digitizing. You'll learn how to digitize your watercolor paintings by scanning or photographing, and how to turn your watercolor painting into a layered Photoshop document. Next, we'll change the colors in our watercolor paintings and collage watercolor elements together. This is Liz from Water and Pigment Hand Painted Watercolors. I make watercolor florals for fabric, wallpaper, gift wrap, and home decor. I'm an artist designer and digital nomad painting and designing full-time while traveling around the world. A few years ago, my husband and I started dabbling in print on demand graphics, and we quickly became addicted to the residual income you can make from print on demand sites. Now we make a full time income from our print on demand work, and this is possible for you too. In this class, I'll show you how to make digital watercolor images that you can use for print on demand sites or selling digital downloads, or just for personal projects like greeting cards, wallpaper, wrapping paper, and desktop backgrounds. The final project for this class will be a greeting card. I'll walk you through the whole process of transforming your watercolor painting into a beautiful finished card. Let's start by debunking some of the myths that are out there about watercolor painting. The first one is that you have to be an incredible watercolor painter to make beautiful paintings. This is true that if you practice your watercolors for years and years, you can create beautiful paintings, but it's also true that you can create beautiful paintings right now. I don't have a ton of experience with watercolor painting, but I do have a lot of experience with Photoshop editing. So I can show you how to take your watercolor paintings that you don't think are very good and adjust them a little bit so they look more like the paintings that you aspire to make. The second myth is that you have to buy every paint color in the rainbow. This is simply not true. I'll show you how to use Photoshop to change your colors not only to different hues, but to different levels of vibrancy. You don't have to buy all of those neon colors to get the neon feel in your watercolors. The third myth is that if you mess up a painting, you should just throw it in the trash. This is definitely not true. I'll show you how to clean up your watercolor paintings in this class so you can see how a painting that looks like it has a lot of errors, can suddenly become a clean finished product. You only need two things to take this class. You need some watercolor paintings that have been scanned or photographed in bright daylight. I'll show you how I capture my photographs in just a minute. You also need Adobe Photoshop. Everything we do in this class is in Photoshop, so that is an essential tool. You don't need to know how to use Photoshop. I'll show you every step of my process, including my keyboard shortcuts, my workflow, and every single tool I use in Photoshop. You also don't need to be an amazing watercolor painter. I certainly don't consider myself an amazing watercolor painter, but I do know how to make my watercolors look amazing in Photoshop. Let's talk about the images that you need to complete the project in this class. I have two examples here, the one on the left is a bad example, and the one on the right is a good example. The picture on the left has a few problems. Number 1, the elements are painted too closely together, and they're also overlapping in a lot of areas. That's going to lead to a lot of work in Photoshop, so I wouldn't use this watercolor painting for this particular project. It's also a low light situation. I would try to capture your watercolors in bright daylight or at least a lightly cloudy day, so that you have a lot of brightness showing on your paper when you take your picture. The third problem with this picture is that it's taken from very far away. You don't want to try to capture your entire page unless you have a really small piece of paper. It's better to capture individual elements so that you get larger pictures of each element. My paper on the left here is 11 by 17 inches, that's way too big for an iPhone to capture with one picture. Whereas on the right, I've taken a picture of a flower that's about three by three inches, and so the picture is just of that one flower. On the right, we have a picture that's spaced very nicely, none of the elements are touching, it's taken in bright sunlight, and number 3, it's very close up so the camera can capture all of the details. Now, one side note here, it is best to use a scanner. That's how you're going to get the highest quality, is to use a high-quality scanner. Right now I'm traveling, I don't have access to a scanner, so for me the iPhone works fine. But if you have a wonderful scanner at home, go ahead and use that. 3. Keyboard Shortcuts + Crop and Clean Up: Before we dive into Photoshop, I want to show you a document with some really helpful keyboard shortcuts that will make your work in Photoshop much easier and much faster. These are shortcuts that you can use to open up the tools that we'll be using today. The first one you see there is move. If you click the letter V on your keyboard, you can select the move tool and quickly move an object. Same thing for erase. If you need to erase something, you can click E on your keyboard to open up the eraser tool. The third one here is Command S. This is the most important tool because it saves your document. Photoshop does tend to crash from time to time, especially if you're working with large images. I recommend just getting used to clicking Command S as often as you can remember. That way you'll never lose a long period of work. Command C and Command V, copy and paste, we'll use those a lot in this class. Clone stamp, we'll use to clone one area and move it to another part of our document. Deselect we'll use after we select something, we then need to deselect it so we can go back to editing our whole document. We'll use Command a lot. Zooming in and out, Command Plus Command Minus I uses those constantly throughout my process. Those are really helpful to get familiar with. Command T transforms your object, which means it makes it smaller or bigger. The next one is shift, shift is what locks the proportions of your object. If you have a square object, you want to keep it square, so you need to hold down shift as we transformed. The next one is Command Z. This steps back one time in Photoshop. If you make a mistake, don't worry, you can always click Command Z. If you want to step back more than one time, you can click Command, Option Z. Then the very last one here is to duplicate a layer or a selection, Command J. As I'm working today, I'll say these keyboard shortcuts, it would be helpful to probably have this on your desktop or somewhere nearby. I'll put this in the course downloads and you can take a screenshot now or download it later and I promise you it will really improve your workflow if you memorize these shortcuts. The first thing I need to do is open up all of my pictures are scans in Photoshop and then turn those into individual layers and remove all of the white background. That'll make them really easy to work with in Photoshop and manipulate them later on in our final project. I'll open up Photoshop here and click File, Open. Then I can locate my files. I'm working with some pictures here that I took with my iPhone. You can use a scanner, that's a great option. I don't have access to a scanner right now, so I just take really up close pictures of all of my watercolor paintings. I am going to click the first image and then shift click the very last image and click open. That will open all of my images in Photoshop. Next, I need to crop and clean up this image so I can easily remove the white background. The first thing I'll do is go over to the left here and click the crop tool and then drag my crop boundaries in very close to the flower but not touching the flour. Once the crop is correct, I'll click return or enter. Then I can take my eyedropper tool and click anywhere on the paper. Then select my brush tool and choose a brush size that's going to help me paint over this leaf. I want to be sure I'm selecting the hard round brash, not the soft round brush. The problem with the soft round brush is it will actually fade away part of your watercolor. If I Command Plus to zoom in here, you can see if I use the soft brush, I can actually accidentally removes some of the edge of my watercolor here. I'll click Command Z to undo that. I want to be sure I'm using a hard brush because that brush is really easy to control. I can get really close to the edge of my flour and I don't cause any damage. I've got my hard round brush with a medium sized brush. I'm just going to paint over this flower just to get that out of my way. 4. Brightness, Levels, Magic Wand, and Eraser: So the next thing I need to do is increase the brightness of this image. You can see if you go to the left here, and select your Eyedropper tool, and click on the Background and then double-click your Swatch panel. This is not a pure white, this is a gray, creamy white. So what I want to be able to do is double-click on this image, open my Swatch panel and then see appear white. So that's my goal here. The first thing I'll do is click Image adjustments, Brightness, Contrast, and I want to increase the brightness without losing any of the beauty of this watercolor. So I have a really lite area down here that I really don't want to lose. So I'm watching that area as I increase my brightness because I don't want to go too far. That's good for now, I'll click okay. Next I can click Image adjustments levels, levels allows you to increase the whiteness, and increase or decrease the darkness. So the left side here is darkness. Let's bump up our shadows here, and these are the darkest parts of our image that are getting darken, and even more here. Then let's increase the brightness of our Highlights as well. So that looks good for now. Let's click okay, get the Eyedropper tool. Click on the White background, and here we have almost appear white. The color code here is "fffefd," that's very close, appear white is six "f's." So our goal is six "f's," so I'll click okay, that means I need to bump up my brightness or my levels a little bit more. I'll go with levels, and increase my Highlights a little bit more, click okay. Click on my white background with the eyedropper tool, and now you can see I have a pure white. So that's exactly what I want, especially because I don't erase the insides of these. I want to be sure that all of this as a pure white so that when I paste it onto a white canvas, I'm not pasting a cream paper onto a white background. So now that we have a pure white background, we're going to grab the Magic wand tool over here on the left. This tool will allow us to select a large area. So for example, if I wanted to select my whole flower, I could click on the Flower, and this tool would select almost everything for me. You can see up here there's a section called tolerance. The tolerance is very important because it decides how much is selected. The higher your tolerances is, the more you will select. So for example, if I set the tolerance for 100, and I click on my white background, I'm selecting my white background, that's good. But the problem is, I'm also selecting a lot of my watercolor that looks similar. So we have a little bit of pitch here that's going to be lost. Not only that, but all of the edge, the beautiful watercolor rough edge has totally disappeared. It will be totally erased with this kind of selection. So what I normally do for watercolors is decrease the tolerance to five or 10 at the maximum. So you can see if I click five or enter five as the tolerance, and then click on my white background. It selects all the whitespace except for this little corner here. That probably means I have some little paints platters in my corner, which yes, I do. You can see those here. So I am shift-clicking on these areas. So I can go through and shift-click on every single little dot here or I can just bump up my tolerance a little bit. Let's increase the tolerance to seven, and click again. You can see that got rid of a lot of my dots, and I can shift click, and some of these other areas. You can see there's a little paint dribble here. Let's actually bump the tolerance of 210 to get even more of these little accidents out of the way. I'm just shift clicking on each little selected area there. Then I'm going to scan around my image, and be sure every single little dot is selected. Just shift-clicking whenever I see one, and you can see those little paints platters that were picked up by the camera. That shows you how high quality the pictures you can get from your iPhone it's amazing. Even though, usually they say you have to have a scanner. If you take your pictures this close up, even with an iPhone, you can get a great quality picture. So I'm shift clicking on all of these little areas, and so that looks pretty good. I have all of my white background selected, and then this little area got picked up as well, which is fine. So now I'll click my Eraser tool, and make sure that my Eraser brush is very large. Then just click and drag around here. It looks like I don't have my background on locked. So let me go over here, double-click on this lock, and click okay. Photoshop automatically locks your background for every image. So if you don't unlock your background, you will have some trouble with a lot of effects and filters, so I recommend doing that. Anytime you have an issue, something isn't working, make sure your background is unlocked. So now that it's unlocked, I can totally erase that background and click Command D to Deselect. So now I have this beautiful watercolor flower that's totally clipped out, and if I zoom in, I can see I didn't lose my watercolor edge. I still have that nice, fuzzy watercolor edge. 5. Making a Master Document and Using the Clone Stamp: Now that we have our flower totally cropped and cleaned up around the edges, all of our whitespace removed, I'm going to create a new blank document where I can drop all of these flowers as I create them. This will be a really easy way to save my watercolor elements. I have a big folder where I keep all of my watercolor pieces like this and then when I'm making a new project, I have a lot of collage elements to pull from, so I really recommend saving your files in this way. I'm going to click File, New, and let's call this master layer document and 10 by 10 inches is perfect and 300 dpi. I always work with 300 dpi. That's a great resolution for print work as well as digital work. I never changed that. If this was set to, for example, 72 dpi, your images would be really blurry. Always double-check your dpi before starting a new file and click Okay. Then I'll click on my image that I cropped out and grab the tab, click and drag it out of your Photoshop window so that you can see both your cropped out flower and your master layer document. Then I'll click on the layer that shows my flower and just drag it in to my master document. I have my move tool selected so I can move this around. If I want to make it smaller, I can click command T and then hold down shift to constrain their proportions and there's my first flower finished. Let's click close on that first flower that we created and move on to the next one. This one has a unique problem. There's a little leaf overlapping with one of my petals. Let's take care of that with the clone stamp tool. The first thing I'll do is crop this image and remove as much of the leaf as I can and click Enter. Then I'll zoom in up here to the area where this issue is and so there's just a little overlapping area. What I want to do is take a nice area down here and copy it so that it's up here. That way, I'm getting that watercolor texture and covering up this area that has a color that I don't really like. The clone stamp is over here on the left. Click on it and then make sure your background layer is unlocked. I'm double-clicking, click Okay, and then my clone stamp brush is really small right now. Let's make that a little bit bigger. That's a nice size and then I am going to leave this to a soft round brush. If you do a hard round brush, it's going to be really obvious that you clipped from one area and moved it to another area whereas the soft round brush with watercolor is going to be really subtle. I'll stick with that. You'll see if you try to click, it will say you can't use the clone stamp because the area to clone has not been defined, option click to define a source point. Before you use this tool, you have to define your source point or what do you want to copy. I want to copy this area right here. I'm going to choose a nice area that I like and click ALT, I'm holding down ALTER option on Mac, and then click. Option click. Now I have copied that area. It knows when I go up here that that's what I want to copy and you can see it's already showing what we'll paint if I click in that area. Again, that's option click and then you're ready to start painting. I'm going to zoom in really close because I want this to be pretty accurate and let's just start slowly working our way up to try to get rid of as much of that green as we can. That looks pretty good. If you want to copy this nice edge as well, you could define your source point as an edge. If I put my clone stamp here, alt, click. Now this is defined as my source. If I go up here and start painting, you can see I'm clone stamping that exact area. The only problem is, it's not matching up with my original watercolor paints. That can be difficult. I'll click Command Z to go back. For now, I'm just going to leave it with that fuzzy edge. Once you zoom out, you really can't tell. I think it's fine for this project and the next thing I want to do is get rid of my leaf here. I'll click my eyedropper tool. I can use my eyedropper tool and paint or I can use my clone stamp if I want to just get that watercolor texture. Let's use the clone stamp. I'm finding a place on my paper, option click over here, come back to my leaf and just start painting. You can lift up your brush and start painting again and you can even change your brush size. I feel like this brush is leaving a little too much haze for what I want to do. I'm switching to a smaller brush to help me get a little bit more accuracy. Let's try to get rid of all of that green and just leave a nice little jagged watercolor edge. Let's add in some fake jagged edges here. If we zoom out, you really can't see that edge at all and once this is on a greeting card, it'll be about the size, so you definitely won't see it. 6. Adding Watercolor Elements to Your Master Document: Now I'm going to continue with the same process we did before. I'll do it a little bit faster this time. Then for the remainder flowers, I'll speed up my camera so you can watch, but you don't have to hear every step over and over, so "Image", "Adjustments", "Brightness", brightening it up, "Image" "Adjustments", "Levels", brightening my highlights, darkening my darks. Click "Okay", get my Eye Dropper Tool and test the back. It's almost a pure white but not quite. Let's go "Image", "Adjustments", "Levels", highlights up just a little bit more, paste it again, and pure white, so we're good to go. Get our Magic Wands, let's set the Tolerance to seven. It looks like that copied, that selected everything. I'll go ahead and get my eraser, erase everything, and then I can grab this tab and pull it down so I can see both my master document and my flower. Click and drag that layer Command T to change the size, and there's our second flower. You can see this process goes pretty quickly once you get down the steps and don't save. Now I'll continue with the rest. Before I speed up my camera here, let's just review the process that we're going to repeat here. Number 1, crops the flower. Number 2, increase the brightness and levels. Number 3, paint over the leaves or any other drips or paint marks that you have in your document. Number 4, select the background using the Magic Wand Tool. Number 5, erase the background, and Number 6, drag the flower into your master doc. Now you can see I have this beautiful document with some nice roses. You never would have known that it came from that really messy watercolor painting that I created. You can also see if you look on the left here, each one is on its own layer. I can really easily drag this into new documents, change the size and color of each one, and make a lot of changes that wouldn't be possible if this was just one single document. 7. Making a Card, Adding Borders and Text: Now that we have all of our layers made, we're ready to start our greeting card. Let's click "File", "New" and I'm going to make my card 5 by 7, and I'm always using 300 dpi, that is the standard dpi for print and online work. So I always stick with that. I always use RGB color, that's what most sites use. So I do recommend sticking with RGB, and then click, "OK", so now we have a white blank document. We may want to add some text starting out or we can just start with our flowers. Personally, I like to start with the flowers, I'm going to click and drag this out of the window here down to the corner. I'll click my very first layer and then shift click my very last layer. Then I can click and drag them all under this greeting card. You can see it's really big for this file, so I'll click "Command T", zoom out a little bit, and then make these all smaller. I'm holding down shift as I drag that box to a smaller size and then click "Enter", now we have all of our flowers here. I can click on any of these layers to start working with the size and positioning of each flower, so I can click over here in the "Layers panel" or I can" Command "click, I like to "Command" click, it's a lot faster. So I tend to do that most of the time. So Command click and then "Command T" to transform. I'm going to drag the, let this one go off the edge a little bit, and then press "Enter". This next one here, I might make this one small. Then let's make this our biggest one. I kind of like this edge here, so let's put this down in the corner and make it a little bigger. Then let's move this one up here. You can see I'm just "Shift" clicking or "Command" clicking and then "Command T" to transform. Playing around with the positioning and the sizing of each piece. This is a good time to go ahead and input my text, so I know how much space I have, if I wanted to duplicate any of these other flowers. So let's go ahead and click the text tool over here. This is the T symbol on the left, and choose a font. I like this font, Playlist. It's a kind of a hand-drawn ink font, and so I need to choose a color. Let's just start with black so we can really see what the font looks like. I'll type happy on one layer and I'm going to keep my two texts layers on separate layers so I can really easily adjust them, let's put happy right there. Then I click the "Move tool" to set my type. I'll click the text tool again and click down here and type birthday. Now if you look over at my layers panel, I have happy and birthday on separate layers. If I click the "Move tool" that sets my type, and then you can see both of these layers are separate. So if I want to move birthday, I can do that. If I want to move them both. I can "Shift" click on the second one and then they can move together, but I do like to keep my text layer separate. It just makes somehow a little easier to move them around. For example, if I want to overlap anything, it's a lot easier if they're separate. For now let's stick with the black. We can always change this later, so let's click and adjust our flowers a little bit more, I need to decide if I want to overlap at all and if I want to duplicate any of these flowers, so I really like the small flower. I'm going to duplicate this by clicking "Command J". Now there's two of these. If I click and drag, you can see it reveals the second one. Let's make this bigger and move it down here. I try not to duplicate the same flour more than once. I think it keeps it a little bit more varied if you stick with just a few flowers duplicated once or twice. So I'm going to duplicate this one as well, and let's move it down here and let's make this one a small flower. Maybe going off the edge a little bit, and maybe one more small flower. Once you practice these keyboard shortcuts, you can really play around with this quickly just like you would if you had papers on a table. So that's why these keyboard shortcuts are so helpful because they allow you to just think about the creative side of this. Rather than going back and forth and clicking between your Layers panel and finding things on the toolbar. I like how that's starting out. I might also create a little border here. So then I'm kind of finishing off my card with a border on the edge. Let's click here the "Rounded Rectangle Tool". If you right-click on this tool, you can see all the options. We can draw a rectangle, a rounded tool, a lot of different options here. I want a rectangle for now, and we need to choose how we want to fill the shape and how we want the stroke or border of the shape to be. For fill, I don't want to fill, the fill is my watercolor and my happy birthday text. The stroke or the border, I want that to be black, and then we need to choose the size. So this says three point, that means three pixels, that's pretty narrow. Let's start with five pixels and see how that looks. I'm going to make sure my rounded rectangle tool is selected. I will click and drag this down to the very bottom. When I release, you'll see my rounded rectangle tool has created a nice little border for my flower. There is one issue here, this flower is over my border. That's a really easy fix. I just click on my rectangle layer here and drag my rectangle layer all the way to the top. 8. Changing Colors: This is one color option. I'm going to go ahead and click "Save As". Let's call this black and red card 1. I always save every color option I create. I like to be able to go back and make choices later on. So feel free to save as many options as you'd like. Let's go ahead and change some colors of this flower and the text and see what different color versions we can come up with. The one problem with the rectangle tool is it's going to make selecting all your layers a little bit difficult. I am going to hide my rectangle layer for now and I'll bring that back later. Let's click the type tool and highlight our text by clicking "Command A" or just double-clicking to select all the text. I want a little gold or mustard color here. So let's try that. Let's go a little bit darker. I like that color, so I want to also make my birthday text that color. Let's double-click "Birthday" and then double-click on our colors palette and click "Okay". Now we have a nice gold text. It's a little hard to see the y at this point, so I think I'm going to click and move that flower over. If I return my rectangle tool here, I can easily change the color of that by clicking "Rectangle" and going to my recently used colors and clicking that mustard color. Whoops, looks like I'm not on my rectangle layer here. Make sure you click your rectangle layer, click the rectangle tool, and then choose your recently used colors. I like that color version as well. I think I'll go ahead and save that as red and gold card 1 and click "Okay". I'm always saving these as Photoshop files. That's the only way to save your layers. Rather than saving everything as a JPEG, I save it as a Photoshop file, so I can go back in and adjust it later. I like this card, but I wish that these flowers were a little bit more high contrast and red. I'm going to select all of my flower layers. I've got a lot of flowers here, I clicked the first one and then I "Shift" clicked the last one to select all and then "Command J" to duplicate all of those layers. Now I have two copies of every single flower here. The new copies that I've created, I'm going to merge into one layer, so I can change all of the colors at once. Let's right-click on all of those selected layers and click "Merge Layers." I'm going to name that all flowers. Just so I know exactly what I have. For the individual layers I'm going to go through and make those invisible. The reason I'm doing that is because I want to save them as individual layers in this document. I'm not ready to merge everything into one layer. I may want to go back and change some of the spacing or move some of these flowers around. If I hide these layers here, they're always there for me to go back to and I don't have to worry about whether or not I can go back and change my mind. Now I have one nice layer with all of my flowers on it. I'm going to click "Image" "Adjustments" "Color Balance." Here I can start adding in some other colors. Maybe I want to make this more of a pink card, maybe I want to go more green or orange. I think for this one, I'm just going to bump up the red a little bit and then click "Okay". Then we can also increase the contrast a little bit by clicking "Image" "Adjustments" "Levels." So maybe bump up the whites a little bit and bump up the darks and click "Okay." Let's call that vibrant red and gold card. At this point, if you want to totally change the color, there's an easy way to do that just click "Image" "Adjustments" "Hue" "Saturation" and totally take down the saturation. That removes all of the colors. You've got just the black and white image at this point. If you wanted to make a black and white card, for example, you can just take down the saturation. Then let's go back to image adjustments, levels and really bump up our blacks, and then we get an ink drawing look. We have some deep blacks here. Let's bring in a little bit more white. Then you can see we've got a nice black and gold tone here. So for someone who loves black and gold, this would be a perfect birthday card. 9. Saving and Sharing Your Watercolors: Now you've seen all of the steps that you need to take your original watercolor paintings and turn them into something like this greeting card. I have decided on a final color version here, I've got some pink and gold and I bumped up the levels and the brightness of some of these and so everything that we've created here today can be used in any other project. You could make a watercolor wreath or a desktop background or some sellable downloads. You can apply the same process to any other digital project with your watercolors. The last thing I want to do is save this image so that it can be used on websites and on the web. Most sites will not accept a PSD file. What I'm going to do is export this from Photoshop as a JPEG or whatever file type the site you're using requests. I'm going to click ''File,'' ''Save As,'' and I can find my folder here. I'll put this in my finished projects folder and down at the bottom here where it says format, I can select JPEG as the format. You want to be sure this says birthday card or whatever you want to name it, dot JPEG. You have JPEG here and this says JPEG, so that's going to save it as a much smaller file. The Photoshop file is very large and it contains layers whereas this is going to work well on websites and on the web. Then I'll click ''Save'' and it looks like I've already named something else with that. So let's call this birthday card two, save and then we get some JPEG options. I always keep maximum quality. I can't imagine a situation where you'd want a lower-quality unless your file is just really huge and the site is requesting that you make your file a little bit smaller, but I always use maximum and then click ''OK.'' Now we have our Photoshop file with our layers preserved as well as a JPEG file. Now you have all of the tools that you need to create your own finished greeting card. You could make a birthday card, a thank you card, or you could have a card with no text, may be something that just has your watercolor on it. That would be beautiful as well. I would absolutely love to see what you make with the skills that you learned in this class and we would also love to see your original watercolor. I showed you some of my really messy, ugly watercolors that I'm not very proud of but as you've seen we can transform these into really beautiful finished projects. Please, let us see your originals so we can see the huge transformation that takes place on Photoshop. I would love to connect with you after this class if you'd like to share some images or ask me questions, feel free to leave a message here, or we can connect on Instagram at water underscore and underscore pigment. If you post your watercolor project on Instagram, I would love if you will tag it with hashtag, watercolor rework. That way we can all see each other's work on Instagram. You can also see my work on Spoon flower, that's where I have all of my fabric, wallpaper and gift wrap watercolor pieces and also on Society6, they do mugs and home decors and things like that. I hope you enjoyed this class, I'd love to see your beautiful projects that you create and I hope this was helpful for you. Bye-bye.