Design a Tiny House! Introduction to Architectural Design | Molly Green | Skillshare

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Design a Tiny House! Introduction to Architectural Design

teacher avatar Molly Green

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Site Selection and Assessment


    • 3.

      Environmental Maps


    • 4.

      Mood Board


    • 5.

      Sketching Forms


    • 6.

      Preliminary Floor Planning


    • 7.

      Prelminary Modeling


    • 8.



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About This Class

Learn the process, methods, and materials architects and designers use to create initial designs for structures by following along with me to design your own tiny house step-by-step.

Do you love the tiny house movement and have ideas of one you wish you could see built? Have you ever wondered how architects create buildings from scratch, or what it would be like to design your own home? This class is for you!

Taught by a trained architectural designer, this step-by-step course will walk you through the architectural design process from site selection, iterative design and sketching, to creating a preliminary model and floor plan for a unique tiny house design. The project will also include an inspiration collage or “mood board” and basic site maps to help you find a compelling design concept to guide your work.

No prior architectural knowledge is necessary, but some familiarity with design would be helpful and access to a computer and basic drawing supplies is required (see “Materials” below). The class would be a great way for adults or teens to learn about architecture to assess future or alternate career paths, to more knowledgeably design their own home in conjunction with an architect, or just for a fun and crafty project on a rainy Sunday. The majority of the work will be done by hand, to reflect the teaching methodology of introductory architecture courses and eliminate the need for specialized programs. You will have the freedom to be creative and have fun with your design concept, without getting too caught up in detailed methodology, but will gain a basic understanding of the steps and considerations that architects must take to begin designing a structure.


-Trace paper, thin copy/maker paper, or regular paper and a window

-Bristol board 11” x 14” smooth surface 100lb (preferred) or heavy card stock

-Graph paper (recommended)

-Xacto knife or scissors

-Tape: any combination of clear scotch tape, double-sided tape, masking/artist’s tape, or glue dots

-Cutting mat or thick corrugated cardboard, old plastic cutting board, or other protective surface

-Assortment of pencils and pens; hand-drafting uses an aptly-named “drafting pencil” with separate lead in a range of weights, from 6H to 6B, and Micron pens in various sizes are also popular. However, thin ballpoint pens and thicker marker pens or Sharpies will work also.

-Assorted colored drawing supplies, such as colored pencils, markers, pastels, or even crayons

-Computer with internet access. Photoshop can be a convenient way to complete some of the assignments, especially as an alternative to working by hand for those that are most comfortable designing digitally, but is definitely not required. I used Keynote to create my collage in this course, so that program or PowerPoint are convenient as well, but again this lesson can be completed by hand.

Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for more architectural design tips and projects, and post any questions you may have now or along the way in the Discussion board. I read the questions and comments and will definitely respond to help you out!


Meet Your Teacher

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Molly Green


Molly Green is a designer living in San Francisco with training in architecture, interior design, and scenic design, and I'm passionate about sharing design skills and creating structures that bring happiness and well-being to those who inhabit them. 

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Level: Beginner

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1. Introduction: Hey, all my name is Molly and welcome to my virtual studio. I am a designer in San Francisco with experience in architecture, interior design and scenic design. And today I'm gonna teach you how to design. A tiny house will use some of the processes, methods and materials that architects use will be getting a project, and by the end of the course you'll have sketches, floor plans and a basic three D model to showcase your unique tiny house. This class and project are super simple. So whether you're here to explore architecture as a hobby or career path, or even if you heard this for kicks, no specific experience or programs are necessary. But some general design on will come in handy. Design is a learned by doing skills, so each video lesson will demonstrate a particular step in the process for you to fall along. Were completed in each lesson will constitute part of the final project. Please post your progress in the class Project gallery as you go along, and by the end you'll have a virtual design born showcasing your tiny house design. You could always update your work as you make improvements along the way and ask questions in the discussion board so that I could help you out. The more you put out there better, the final result will be This seems like a lot of steps. Don't worry. I chose the tiny house of the project because it's a fun, simple and tiny, so each step should be quick and easy to jump into you to just get a taste of how architectural designs come to be. Finally, you can follow me. You want to see future videos on architectural design tips and tricks, but that's all for now, so let's get started. 2. Site Selection and Assessment: this first lesson will teach you to find and evaluate a building site for your tiny house. And what environmental factors you can record to help inform your design goal of our design is to create a structure that allows the user to experience the environment and landscape of the site in a unique way or to point out a feature of the area that people might otherwise overlook. This strategy usually results in the most compelling architecture, er and overall experience. For choosing your site. I would just have son and pick an area that you find interesting. This could be somewhere you have been or would want to live or could be somewhere completely exotic that you've never been to. It is usually Lear to find data for locations in the United States, but any location in the world will work for this project. If you have no idea where to look for a site, try Googling National parks. This is a fantasy home, so we can ignore the reality that you can't build a house in a national park, and there are some absolutely amazing landscapes and environments that we can draw from in these places. The first step is to open up your Web browser and go to maps dot google dot com. I'm choosing Pacifica State Beach in California. I have been here before and really like spot. In reality, it does get crowded with tourists and surfers on a pretty regular basis, but I'm going to ignore that fact and pretend that I can purchase the entire beach and have also myself taken How you to explore inaudible, check out the photos and use 3 60 view to examine your surroundings. I like that. There are hills around the speech and some interesting rock formations in the ocean and around the edge of the sand. You can check road access and nearby futures on map and then switched to satellite view to examine the details of your area. Choose a site that looks like there will be enough room, somewhat reasonable access and a beautiful view. A flat spot is to be it, but you can choose to hang your house from the tree's or off the side of a cliff. If that would be a compelling way to view your environment, I'm gonna pick a spot on the sand with plenty of space to build right here. If you're in an urban area, you can decide to demolish an existing building if you want that spot, or you can try to squeeze in your tiny house in between buildings that are there, then once you've decided on your location, you're going to take a bunch of screenshots off of Google. Take someone satellite, view some and map view on some in 3 60 years. Clear. You're gonna draw in trace right over these as you design your structure. So give yourself plenty of perspectives and options to choose from. Zoom in and out to take views of both your specific site in the surrounding area with it. Architect usually visit the site personally two or three times to take photos, measurements and experiential notes. Next, we want to gather some environmental information. Architects have toe look at factors like soil, air quality, wind temperature, precipitation and war. But for this project, we're going to focus on wind and solar pattern, Scougall wind maps and click the first results or type in H. I. N t dot FM slash wind for a live one map of US international in mapping is probably out there So if your project is in another country, do a quick search for something like this or you can skip this step. I'm zooming into my general location on the U. S. Map, and I can see that for today. The wind is blowing between 10 and 15 MPH and in south eastern direction across the peninsula. Take a screenshot of your wind map, which will transpose onto your site math later. If you want to change the day and take a couple screenshots for different seasons, that's great. But I know that since my site is on the ocean, the wind pretty much always comes from the West, no matter what time of year. Next, we're gonna look at solar patterns by googling son map and choosing the sun Kelkal result or by typing in S u. N. C. A l c dot net. This is a global tool, so it doesn't matter where your area is. You can type the location in the top bar or just move the red marker on the map to your site. Now, on this tool, you've got a timetable on the right and the colors correspond to the lines on our chart, so the dark red line shows the direction of the sunset. The dark yellow line indicates sunrise, and the sun's trajectory over the course of the day is sweeping orange line and everything highlighted below that indicates the variation during the year, so you can see anywhere the sun really covers during the whole year once. Now, if you move this lighter across the top, the orange line will shift to show you every position of the sun as it moves across the sky during the day. You can take some time to play with this and then take several screenshots of the sun at different times a day, the more the better. But I'm taking five at sunrise, mid morning, solar noon mid afternoon and sunset Ben change a day to a different season and repeat. The weather in California doesn't change much here, so I'm only doing may in December. But other locations may very a lot, and you might want four dates to compare. You can see how much shorter the day is here and how my trajectory is now on the bottom of the arc instead of the top. This is anything else about your site that really interests you. Take some screenshots or find some images that so that you can use it in the next step with your wind and solar maps. Let us know in the discussion board what location you picked and feel free to ask any questions there, too, as I will definitely check in to help as much as possible. Then it's lesson We will be tracing the site images for environmental sketches. 3. Environmental Maps: this lesson will discuss how to find and sketch environmental patterns and inspirational ideas from your site and use them to determine your four design. Now that you have all of your site images and environmental data, we will be making some traces and overlays this. Commit on my hand by printing out your screenshots and grabbing some trace paper, vellum or regular paper in a window or by firing a photo shop. If you're printing out your views, I would recommend printing at least 7 to 8 images. One overhead view one Matt view one or two ground views. The wind map and at least three solar Matt variations black and white is fine, but this will give you a range of angles to trace over and show you all the important features of your site that you might want to take into consideration if there is anything else interesting to you about your site. So just play it. Growth, existing structures or color print anything you can for those ideas to, and we can incorporate them into your maps. For one project I did. We were designing a structure to attach to a historic bridge and the river there was prone to flooding, sometimes to catastrophic degrees. I decided to focus on the flood levels, and I research data on that. I would recommend picking one or maybe two things to focus on, which will really help you find your design concept more easily. First, we want to trace the basic outline of the site and any important features. Perfection is not the goal here. We're just getting a quick map for ourselves. I'm going to start by outlining the land where it meets the ocean and then use a thinner black marker to show the edge of the beach. Using different line waits adds depth and clarity to your drawing. You can choose any combination that makes sense to you. Then I'm going to draw dots to show where the surf and sea foam are created by the offshore rocks. Next, all outlined my road in bold pen again to make sure I know where my house will be in relation to the street. And then I'll make a dotted blue line along this pedestrian and bike path that runs along the beach. If you wanted to this exercising Photoshopped instead, you'll bring any overhead view on the bottom layer. Next taken image of your wind map that lines up approximately with the trace of your overhead view. Then draw something to convey the wind direction. You could do lines just like the original map. Or you could just do some large color box with a cran in a big sweep. To show the air movement, feel free to experiment and find something that appeals to you. This is partially data and partially art. You could also collage your sketching with the photographs and maybe cut out the wind map and adhere it to the back of your trace paper with double set of tape or removable blue dots. I actually like how this looks with two different scales on top of each other, but it still shows how the wind crosses over the peninsula from the ocean. A quick tip on Connie. I use an Exacto knife with a cutting mat, but scissors will also work. It's just a lot easier toe work around the unusual shapes with an Exacto. Please don't use a box cutter. Those airway too bulky for this, and I saw a lot of sliced fingers in school from kids doing this is a shortcut for photo shop work. You can essentially do the same thing, treating each layer as digital piece of trace paper and adjusting the capacity and color to your liking. You can also erase parts of images instead of cutting them out. You will repeat this process with the solar maps, and you can reuse your side outline cage underneath. I'm going to cut out my or a graph here to go in between my sight and my son drying. Now that I've cut out my map, I'm going to label it so I know what time it's for. I usually like to choose a cool color for the shadows and a warm color to show where the sun hits. I'm going to color in this whole band, showing the difference between the summer and winter sun trajectories partly for aesthetics and partly so I can really see the range. Then I'm going to outline the winter trajectory in red to show which season I am mapping Next, I'm going to adhere this to my site, drying with a removable glue dot at approximately the same location that the red marker was on before. Let's pretend that your structure is a block situated somewhere near the center of this solo across. You will change this later, but it helps you visualize. Higher building might be affected by light and shadow maps. Sunrise. I would show the sun being coming from here and this side of the structure being bright, and then the shadows would come off the back of the house over here. Then I'll grab another layer of trace and do the same thing. But for sense it, so the light and shadow will be in opposite positions. We'll draw my structure again and then add the same colors. So sunset beams starting here again. This is not scientifically precise, but it helps establish basic zones of your site and then show you patterns. I'm gonna create three for winter at dawn, dusk and solar noon and then three for summer at the same times. Now, if I overlay all three maps, I get a really nice composite image of all three winter light and shadow patterns. I feel for you to be created with this and use an illustration method that appeals to you if you're in an urban area or chose a site with closely neighboring structures will have to estimate how these buildings will cast a shadow on your site and guesses air totally fine. If there are other elements about your site that you like, be creative and come up with a way to map those whether it's prince or sketching or both. You can also try some of these environmental catches in elevation of you, an estimate, the trajectory of wind or sun in this direction if you decide not to. That's fine, but hang on to the ground view photo prints for another lesson. I'm going to outline the same land features that I did in my overhead site. Map and a gun show the surf with black dots. Draw the water line there in the top of the ridge Here. Next, all sketch in a block for my structure. I'm going to show here that the wind almost exclusively comes from the ocean side of my site so that I can plan my structure accordingly. I don't want to blow over the wind would come in and kind of hit the side of my structure like this and reflect away from the wall. Finally, will take scans or photographs of our map overlays, and you can create as many different combinations as you want. I would recommend the wind plus site map, the solar plus site map and the wind, plus solar as a minimum. Once again, the more your experiment, the more nuanced and interesting your idea could be. The point of this whole exercise was to really find it illustrates something about the site that is compelling to you and to look for patterns that can inspire your house design. I decided to overlay my overhead view in sketch on my Elevation of you Win sketch. Since I noticed that they look really similar. This is a great strategy to add visual interest and show two elements of data at once. The interesting thing about this overlay is that in both views, the wind direction lines match up almost exactly. This is a strong case for focusing on this ocean breeze, since it displays a consistent pattern of always blowing inward. You feel like you need more to work with. Go back to Google and look up more images of your location. Since I knew I would be focusing on the wind, I looked up my location and wind and found pictures of windsurfers. And if I take that into consideration next to my wind maps, I realized that this beaches definitely a great place for wind serving, since the breeze blows inland in a predictable way. So perhaps my concept will have something to do with the wind sail. I will be refining this idea in the next lesson with a mood board to wrap up just a few of your sketches Project Gallery to show your progress and feel free to ask me any questions. 4. Mood Board: this lesson will show how you can visually represent and refine your design concept. Using additional report. Once you've decided what is most compelling to you about your site, you're going to create a concept or mood board to give this idea of visual form. The first step here is to choose the environmental sketch from the previous lesson that best illustrate the quality from your safe that you'll focus on. So mine is a composite wind map. Bring this image into a photo manipulation software on your computer. This could be Photoshopped, gimp or even Power Corner keynote. I'm going to be using keynote today. The environmental image will be your background, taking up all or most of your page next at some images or sketches to visually represent your theme or concept. This is to give you aesthetic inspiration so you can begin to draw out common shapes, colors or vibes from your concept that you will begin to shape into your structure. This is an example of the mood boredom aids my bridge project. I used all existing imagery and was really trying to capture the feeling of the old rusted bridge, especially the historic flood that unearthed caskets from the nearby graveyard. I was focusing on a particularly creepy facet of this location and wanted to explore that. Visually, I included mud bubbles to show the soggy ground as the flood water receded and was channeling and almost or esque style to make sure that they focus. Point came across clearly and gave me lots of visual inspiration. Toe work with It could be helpful to send some time accumulating images that remind you of your site that you can choose from. I'm definitely going to include the windsurfing concept for my collage, so I'm gonna drop in an image of that next to the ocean and lower the opacity. Then I'm thinking I will also put a rain garden around my house to catch water runoff, so I'm going to define an image that I like. I think I'll use this one because the art shape will probably play nicely with my wind sail shape. I'll add this to the other side of my structure sketch and resize it to kind of wrap around the wall. We'll lower the capacity of that as well, and then make a few tweaks until I like the composition better. This one isn't that great, but it works for demonstration. Then I'm going to find an image of Mylar, which is used to make windsurfing sails, because I'd like to see if the texture of that material will give me any inspiration along with these other elements. All resize this to go between the sale and the garden and again lower the opacity so I can still see my structure behind. Okay, I think I'll make it half size. Actually, if you're saying gives you a strong sense of material or color at a square two of that as well into your quash. Or you can change your background to a color or texture image at 50% capacity and play with the transparency of your images. On top of that, change the entire mood. That's what I did with my bridge collage. The background is a dark, stormy sky, which strikes a very particular mood that I wanted to design around. From this collage, I can see that my wind will come in, and maybe it should hit some sort of sale like element that will direct the wind and any rain water towards the back of a structure where it can run off into the rain garden on the other side. This way, my structure creates kind of a transition from ocean toe land by harnessing the ocean breeze just like windsurfers dio, I'm going to save an image of my favorite version and call it mood board. Based on what you've chosen to include in your collage, you should be able to find some core themes here. Maybe it's a mood like tranquility or strength, a material like ice or would, or a function like conserving water or framing a beautiful view. Thes themes can then translate into your overall goal for the structure. You should be able to explain this idea and goal in one sentence. Still, for my house, I've decided on windsurfers at Pacific Estate Beach. Use sales to harness the force of the strong ocean breeze. So to convey that my house will utilize a fail like element to intentionally direct wind, sun, rain and ocean views for the occupants. I don't know what this element will be yet or what it will look like, but that would come in the next lesson to finish this off close to collage in the Project gallery and write your description either on top of the collage or in a threat in the discussion board and, of course, reach out if you need any help. Next up is sketching some form. 5. Sketching Forms: this lesson illustrate basic architectural sketching to create initial shapes and ideas for your structure. Sketching entrees paper is probably the fastest method, and it could be really nice to trace over a sketch just ID if you want to add to it. But if you have a sketchbook you like to use or lots of regular printer paper, any of those things work. I also like a bold 10 to sketch with. I'm using this pen tell Signed 10 in Blue. But if you're more comfortable with pencil, go for it. Just know they're racing isn't really the name of the game here, since you could just make another sketch. The key here is starting. Um, it can feel intimidating to be thinking about your concept and try to put something on paper. But don't be hesitant. Just draw something, keep moving and let your creativity takeover. That's why we don't really erase. It interrupts the flow, focus on quantity over quality. Nobody has to see the sketches you don't like, so don't worry if they don't look the way you want right away, Keeper. Finding as you go, using lots of strokes to pin down the lines that you want? I'm going to start by sketching over an image of my wind sail. I could focus on this front piece here, make that really bold and then kind of just add the back. Or I could decide to Onley draw these segmented sections of the sale, and that could give me a really interesting shape toe work with. Or maybe I'll only do you know, these two darker sections. I think I'm gonna try outlining the whole shape in this nice sort of soft wedge and then experiment with how that might work on my site. So maybe it's like kind of a roof, and then my structure would come down underneath that. So here's my roof and then the other my walls, you know? And then I've got a house. I think I'm gonna try turning it a little bit. So maybe it's more vertical, More upright roof on my house comes down like that as you're designing your structure. Keep in mind the sentence that you came up with in the last lesson. Gonna make another version, see if I can kind of find tune this in a way that makes more sense to me turning around this way and have edge of the sale actually come down to the ground. That's kind of cool. The interesting roof set up there. Maybe it looks more like this. I kind of want my walls to integrate better with the curve of the sale, but I don't think I like that. So try again with my original wedge. So my my walls maybe come underneath the roof. The dotted lines show that it's behind, and then the roof would overhang. I think that's kind of a cool idea. So if I have the outside wall here and then the ground on my roof slopes down over the edge of the house, then I have, like a covered patio, built it. Then the rain would come off to my rain garden on the other side's who would sit kind of sheltered through this rain garden in there, and then my house would be in the back. That's kind of cool, I think. I think I'll work with that so ocean would be on one side. The rain garden would be on the other side, so I need I want to show the whole house. In addition to the patio So I'm going to sketch over this with lines that are already there . Never Fine my structure. So that would be my whole roof. My rain garden would be There are actually those are gonna be the walls, and then the patio is gonna be on the outside. Here we go. Now I have a complete structure. I would sit on my site here. Me, That would be the sand underneath. I think that's a pretty good start. I'm gonna take off the one that I don't like. You just keep this sketch because I think this really shows what I'm going for. So now I'm gonna test this on my original elevation site map and kind of show where it's situated. The next step is to take some regular paper. You can use a pencil or a pen or the same bold marker and kind of sketch out in more detail what your structure might look like. So I'm showing me rain garden a little bit bigger here, showing how my roof is gonna actually touch the ground on the far side of my building and then outlining where the interior walls might actually be underneath the roots and Then when you use my bullpen to just outline the total shape of my structure from overhead view , I think my roof would kind of end up looking like this sort of Garrido shape. And then my house would be inside of that kind of fitting into the wedge, my walls of the double lines here. And so the footprint of my structure would be there, and the roof would be on top. Do you have a few that you like, scan or photograph them and post them in the project gallery? Don't worry if they're rough. Still, it was common for me to get to the end of a project and still love. One of my first sketch is the most since they really show the life and creative process of the designer, I would frequently include them in my portfolio and final presentations. As always, don't hesitate to post any questions before we move on to the next step floor plan 6. Preliminary Floor Planning: this less. I will teach you the basics of four. Planning to start designing the interior of your tiny floor planning Children. The walls, doors, windows, appliances and furniture will be inside your house. At this stage of the design, you may quickly discover that your house needs to be smaller or larger to accommodate what's required in each room. But that's what this is for architects to brought to scale when making four times. This means that a certain distance on your piece of paper is equivalent to a certain distance and realize this insurance. Everything you draw is proportional and realistic, and you can quickly assess the relative size of everything shown to get this simple. For this project, I strongly recommend using graph paper so one square on the grass would be one foot in real life. This way you can quickly count feet in your space by coming this worse. The typical size for a tiny house is smaller than 500 feet, or about 22 by 22 feet, but I would make it at least 100 square feet. The tiny houses on wheels are typically eight by 20 feet, so if you counted eight squares over and 20 squares down that gives you an eight foot by 20 foot footprint and multiplying the length times the width gives you a 120 square foot house . My suggestion is to start this process by tracing and overhead sketch. If you have one onto your graph paper this way, you keep the shape that you were exploring already. And then you can count the approximate size based on your golf paper and find out if you need to make any adjustments. So mine is nine feet this way, about 1.5 feet straight down, which isn't going to give me the exact square footage. But it's just to help me estimate for now a man. My other side is six feet. I can already tell that this is going to be way too small, since I should have about 10 feet by 10 feet to give me a minimum 100 square foot house if this were true square. So I want my house to be about 75% larger than this, so I'm multiplying the original measurements by 1.75 and rounding to a new size and then counting out the squares in each direction, so this side would be about 16 feet. The other side is about 10 feet, and then the longest side is about 17 feet. And then I feel in my shape within this boundary to you match the smaller one above it. I'm also gonna count over to figure out where that point is. Then I can kind of connect the dots the same way. Now, walls have a thickness, so we actually want to draw in a double line to you indicate the exterior walls, which are typically about six inches thick. We can estimate half a square is thickness. To draw that in doesn't have to be perfect for this. I'm also going to outline my roof here just as an estimate with a dotted line. A floor plan is drawn as if you are looking down from four feet above the floor. So everything above that height is either omitted or drawn with a dash line like this. Now, I'd like to evaluate how my building will sit on the site, So I'm gonna draw the edge of the beach here on the ocean on the other side And then I'm gonna trace my floor plan sketch underneath and rotated to face ocean the way I sketched it in the last lesson to trace my walls the same way outside line and the inside line to try to make it a little bit cleaner this time and then new dry in my roof again with the dash line, and I'm refining the shape of my roof a little bit so that it fits better with my new footprint. The next thing to consider is doors. I would think that people would want to enter from this side, since the parking lot is to the left of this part of the beach. And then I would also want to create a back door on the other side, so I'll sketch in some doors. Also, privacy is an important consideration. One side of my house faces the open sea and the beach that I purchased offer myself. So that's where I want to put the private faces like the bedroom, rather than facing the road. If you need to reorient your building on the site or adjust the shape of your house to better serve the interior needs, that's okay My roof hangs over this larger wall to create a private patio shielding the house from the road. And then my rain garden will sit right along the edge of my roof, probably following the same shape so that it looks integrated. I think I also want to create a sliding door on this end so that I could walk out to the ocean anytime I want probably out of the bedroom. We're evaluating where to put different rooms in your house. Keep in mind the form should follow function. This is a common principle quoted in design. That means that the shape of something should relate to how it works. Nature is a good example of this. A dolphin's fin is perfectly designed to steer it through the water. If it were a different shape, it wouldn't work the same way. Using this in your tiny house just means that you want to marry the shape and function of your rooms as much as possible. So if I'm adding my bedroom here, I want to make sure that whatever I put in this tiny corner next to it doesn't need too much space. The kitchen, for example, has lots of moving parts that need room to open and close. So I'm gonna make this corner of the bathroom instead. That means I'll move this door down the wall out of the way, included a document in the project. Resource is that explains, the minimum size is required for each type of space in a tiny home. Also, keep in mind that doors are typically three feet wide as our hallways. Using sliding doors for pocket doors is a great way to save space on this for tiny houses. I think my kitchen will take up this area here. And then I think I'd like to add a fireplace in this corner with the sofa in front for the living room. If you need to make adjustments, go ahead. That's what White Out is for. So my private rooms need to be bigger, and I need to relocate my doors accordingly. Also, I think I'll make a loft storage base above the bedroom and add some sort of divider or counter with seating Here. Scanner Photograph one or two of your for plants to post in the project gallery for feedback on, let me know if you have any questions 7. Prelminary Modeling: this lesson will be demonstrating how to take your idea from two dimensions to three, which helps you more clearly define your forms and proportions. I like using Bristol Board for modeling, since it's pliable but holds its shape and is really easy to take or blue together. But also cuts of Justin Exacto, knife or scissors. This can be found at any art supply store, but if you have printer grade card stock at home that works to, it just isn't quite a thick. To start your model, grab a few of your favorite sketches and preliminary floor plans to reference. I'm going to start by cutting out my roof in the sort of garrido shape. I'm not worrying too much about scale right now, since I can change the overall scale of my model. Once I get the proportions right, think of this is three dimensional sketching. The same rules apply from sketching on paper. We want quantity over quality, and we don't spend too much time on anyone detail. These are exploratory models, and they really help you work through aspects of your design that may be feasible in a two dimensional plan. But when brought into three dimensions. They don't actually fit or look good. I am just molding this into shape here with my fingers. So I want the top part two can sweep up so I can use my thumbs and my fingers to kind of mold it into place. Then I want the other corner to curve down and touch the ground on the other side. So have a nice sort of point there, Okay? And then I need to cut out some walls to go underneath for the rest of my house. So I'll use the same sheet and cut a strip. Make sure that if you want a straight edge, you use the factory edge of the paper. If you cut a strip out of the side, that edge is no longer perfectly straight. It's a cut pitch. Grab additional pieces of cardboard as needed. If you're working off of a straight edge or corner, don't feel bad about using lots of pieces. You can reuse them later. Okay, so I'm gonna take my strip for my walls and sort of bend it into these nice, rounded corners based on my floor plan. So I kind of modelling off of this drawing can make sure that it's about the same size. Just sort of push each corner in with my fingers and work my way around until I get a complete shape. Now, it looks like this is actually too short. My two ends don't meet up, so I'll just cut a little piece in the same thickness and attach it. Paperwork's find for this kind of modelling for now to keep things moving along quickly. Okay, well, just overlap this a little bit with each side to bridge this gap. Tape it here, check it. Only plan. Okay, Right there and take Okay. Now, I have my complete walls in the shape of my four plan. So don't put these pieces together. And it looks like my roof is actually too small because it doesn't cover all of the sides. So I will make a bigger roof. Keep all your pieces even the ones you don't like, because they can be a helpful reference later. Make as many different preliminary models as you need to. Also, if you get stuck on something, go back to sketching or floor planning to help you visualize what you're trying to achieve . This is it aeration the meat of the design process. Working with drawing and modelling together in a cycle is the only way to truly wrap your brain around a space. This is the skill that I had to work at the most during my time in architecture school. It is not actually possible for your brain to comprehend a form that you've never seen before. It may seem like you've got it all figured out in your head or even on paper, but combining all these things brings your design into reality. Okay, so I'm cutting out slightly larger roof and molding it the same way I did last time. Okay, that looks better. So why do you need this corner to actually reach the ground here? So I need to make this wall shorter so that it fits, and then the other side needs to be taller so that it actually reaches my roof, which curves up on the other side. It's a minute just kind of quickly tape this together in approximately a spot I want, and then grab a new sheet and use this to kind of estimate how much taller I want that side to be and then I'll just kind of make an approximate mark that maximum hate and then mark the shorter sides for the other corner and all connect the dots. Kind of a basic strip here. And cut that out and we'll try this one. You know, again, follow my floor plan and mold this round with the tall side underneath the pointy part of my roof and the short side across from it where the roof will hang over. Okay, so it's a little too long. Just gonna cut off this extra here, and then you can see it doesn't quite line up on the other corners when there's gonna trim off a little triangle there until it lines up and then tape. Well, now I have my varying heights for my walls. Let's test this with the roof, and it looks like the opposite corner is too tall. So I'm gonna just turn off the extra and try again, okay? Almost, but still doesn't quite fit. So I'm gonna trim off, I think a little bit more that other corner so that this kind of fits on their better. Yeah, definitely need to take that off. It is true. MMA strip And then I'm also gonna cut out a slightly bigger roof so that I have a better sweep. So I'm just tracing the last one that I cut out and then cutting a large margin around it. And this is sort of an easy way to approximately scale up a piece that you like and just make it a little bit bigger and serve estimating an inch border around this, I'm gonna mold it again, and I think this looks pretty good. So I have a nice overhang on this side where the private port will be, and I can still bend up the front far enough. And I think this fits on there pretty well. So I'm gonna take this in place on a couple sides, and now I have my little model. So that looks pretty nice if I had the ground there and if you want to, you can erase the pencil lines on on top or any other lines that you have. Um, but this is a pretty good, pretty good first model. If there's another form of modelling that you think might work better for your particular design, like clay or wire or anything else that you have feel free to experiment with that as well . You definitely want to make sure that you have a material that feels right for the type of shape and form that you're trying to achieve. Post a photo or two in the project gallery so that we can see your progress. If you're stuck on how to translate something from two D to three D, let me know in the discussion board and I can help you out. 8. Conclusion: this concludes the course on designing your own tiny house. Hope you had fun and learned a lot. If there are additional resources that you would like to see posted, let me know and I will add them. Most importantly, don't forget to upload photos and scans of your models and floor plans. Also stay tuned for additional lessons or classes on refining floor plans and models coming soon. Don't worry if it doesn't seem super polished. Architect. Spend months Iterating the steps that I've just shown you until they have a space. It's beautiful and functional. The process is the most difficult and most important part of learning this type of design. So kudos to you for getting to the end. If you want to see more design videos for me in the future, follow me here and I'd be so grateful if you could write a review to let others know what you thought of the course. See you all next time