Creating Illustrative Wooden Pinback Brooches with the Cricut Maker | Amy Stoddard | Skillshare

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Creating Illustrative Wooden Pinback Brooches with the Cricut Maker

teacher avatar Amy Stoddard, Amy Illustrates

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (53m)
    • 1. Wooden Pin Class Intro

    • 2. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 01 Setting your Files Set Up in Cricut Design Space

    • 3. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 02: Using the Cricut to Cut Basswood

    • 4. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 03: Sanding and Staining.

    • 5. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 04: Painting and Tips and Tricks

    • 6. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 05: Applying a Resin Dome.

    • 7. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 06: Applying the Pin Backs.

    • 8. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 07: Fixing Accidents

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About This Class

Have you ever wanted to make your own stylish, hand painted ,wooden brooches?  Then Creating Illustrative Wooden Pin Brooches is the class for you!  This class will guide you through the entire process of creating a wooden brooch from design concept, to cutting out your custom wood shapes with a cricut maker, to painting and even applying a sturdy resin coat to your finished product.  This class should be excellent for anyone who enjoys making creative handmade gifts or artisans who want to expand their repertoire and add new product types to their stores.


Top Skills you will learn:

  • Learn how to cut wood with your Cricut Maker.
  • Learn techniques for staining and painting wood projects.
  • Gain skills using 2 part epoxy resin, including tips for applying to wood.


Materials and Tools Needed

  • Cricut Maker
  • 1/16 Basswood 
  • An assortment of paints
  • 2 Part epoxy resin
  • resin crafting supplies
  • brooch clips or pin backs
  • 400 grit sandpaper
  • A strong grip cutting mat
  • Cricut knife blade

Meet Your Teacher

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Amy Stoddard

Amy Illustrates


Hello, I'm Amy!  I'm an illustrator and comic artist living in the American midwest.  I enjoy creating bright, fun, and feminine artworks, and am currently working on building my art as a business.  I graduated from the Herron School of Art and Design with a degree in the Fine Arts as well as an Art Education degree.  I enjoy sharing my knowledge with others and strive to be compassionate and encouraging.

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1. Wooden Pin Class Intro: Hello, I'm Amy Stoddard and I welcome you to try out my class on turning your designs into lovely hand painted wood bridges. This class will take you through the process of using your cricket maker to cut out shapes. We will go over the sanding process and we will go over the myriad of ways that you can apply a color to your projects. This will include how to stain your pieces to allow the wood grain to shine through, creating test swatches. And we will go over all the other tips, tricks and media is you can use to apply color to your pieces. And last but not least, we will be adding a nice shiny resin dome on top of our projects. And I will also go over attaching the pin back. So come along and join me in a happy shiny pin making adventure. See you in class. Bye. 2. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 01 Setting your Files Set Up in Cricut Design Space: Hello and welcome to lesson number one on turning your designs into wooden thin branches. But we're going to start with choosing a couple of designs. And I am going to tweak these designs just to make sure that the shapes are as nice and as perfect as I want them to be. You can spend as much time as you want on this part of the phase, or as little as you like. In this example here, I am using Clip Studio Paint, but you are more than welcome to use any other digital drawing program that you're comfortable with. And I would also like to make note that I am using the symmetrical ruler tool, which I believe a lot of different editing programs have. And this allows me to create a perfect mirror image on the other side. So I can really get this shape nice and tight. Once you have finished your design, you are going to want to copy and paste that design either into the same document or another one, whatever is fine. Then what we're going to be doing is we're just gonna be making the fill image, which means we're going to be basically filling in with black, the entire outline of your shape as you see here. The reason why we're doing this is so the cricket will pick up this design and say, Hey, this is the silhouette shape that I need the cut on this piece of wood. If you aren't 100% happy with your shape, you can feel free to go ahead and continue making little adjustments until you have it just right after you have your design, how you want it. You're just going to take the lasso tool, select it, and then we're going to copy and paste it into a new document. Alright? Now once you have it pasted into a new document, you can crop it if you wish, or what have you. You don't need to worry about transparency or anything at this point. But what you are going to want to do is to go ahead and save it as a JPEG because that is one of the files that cricket recognizes. Alright, so the next step is to go ahead and load up your Cricket Design space. And we're gonna go ahead and make a new project so you can go ahead and click that. And once you have your new project made, we're gonna go ahead and go to upload. And we're gonna go ahead and upload our new design. Then we're going to choose Upload Image and we're going to find where we saved our image and bring it into a program. I'm choosing complex just because I feel it's safer. So if you want to try something simpler, that's fine. The next step is we're gonna go ahead and we're going to select all of the white to make the transparent background and make the cut image. Basically, if everything looks satisfactory to you, you're just going to go ahead and approve and click Continue. Now here's the important part. We're going to choose. Just cut image on the left. We don't need to print or cut, we just need the cut image only. So you're gonna go ahead and select cut image. Then you're going to click the Upload button and then it should all show up in your files. And now we can go ahead and select the cup files that we want to bring into the project. For this project, I am going to be doing the cat head, but I'm also going to be incorporating the Corky as well. Then cricket is going to import your files like ridiculously gigantic. And you will need to shrink these down to the size that you want them to be. Now what size you want to make your pins is gonna be totally your choice. But I like to make mine around 1.5 by 1.5 inches large just because I find that that's a nice approach size. But if you want to go larger or smaller, It's totally up to you. There's no hard fast rules for sizing. Now I'm going to digress very briefly here to discuss the woods substrate we're gonna be using to save money. It's a lot cheaper just to go out and buy basswood sheets that usually the largest width they come in is four inches. So I'm going to be setting up my project so it fits width wise in that four-inch section. Now, if you want to use the cricket basswood, that is a much larger sheet, you're more than welcome to use that. But for this example, I am going to be constraining ourselves down to four inches of width. And you will see how that goes as I continue here. So here I'm just shrinking things down to the size that I would like them and I'm trying to keep them within that four-inch width that I'm working with. Now, once I have my sizes, I like them, I'm going to go ahead and start duplicating them. Generally speaking, I like to try to get about six pins per piece of wood. So I'm going to copy those cats and then I'm going to copy the core buggies. And it may require a little bit of jostling around to get everything to fit. Now I do want to mention here that the only limitation in height, even when you're using the bargain basswood is 12 inches. Typically, I like to keep it under 12 inches. I work around six or eight inches just because the longer the piece of wood, the greater the chance of it lifting up off of your cutting mat. So the smaller the piece of wood that you have, the greater the likelihood that the cut is going to go perfectly. We will get more in depth with the wood and the cutting mat and how to set this up. In the next lesson. We're gonna go ahead and stop this lesson here with finishing up your project file. Now, after you have your file setup, you're going to want to go ahead and select all of your pieces. And you're going to want to go ahead and group them and then go ahead and attach them all together. The reason why we attach them is so that the cricket will recognize to cut all of these six pieces on one single piece of wood. So that wraps up this lesson and I will see you in the next one when we get our machines to cut up all this would see you next time. Bye-bye. 3. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 02: Using the Cricut to Cut Basswood: Hello and welcome to lesson two on turning your designs into wooden pin approaches. This lesson we're going to pick up where we left off with our project. And we're going to get these pins ready to cut. Be sure that you've attached everything altogether. And when you've done that and everything looks good, go ahead and click the Make It button. If you have done everything correctly, all of your cuts will show up together on the sing on this single strong grip cutting that. It does look slightly odd here because I have black on dark gray, but I can see that everything looks okay. At this point, we're going to pause and prep our materials and our cutting mat. I'm going to have to cut down my piece of wood a little bit. So I have a cutting board here and my wood ready, I'm going to measure the length that my board should be. And then I'm going to mark it and create a line with my ruler or this example. I am cutting it at 6.5 inches. And here's a little ruler tip for you. If you mark, makes several marks across your width. At the 6.5 mark, you're guaranteed to get a nice straight line in the end. Here, I've plotted all of my marks at 6.5 inches across the board and I'm just going to create a nice straight line. Next step is to lay my piece of board over my little cutting board strip. And I'm going to want to make a little trench to get started with the saw. And usually I like to press the saw down into the woods to make a little groove. Then it'll be easier to solve it. Once you have your little groove and the board, you'll want to carefully, very carefully start slowing it. And the more of a trench you make than the faster you can go, shouldn't take too long, and eventually your board is going to come free. Now there will be a little bit of sanding needed to be done on that edge, but we'll get to that in a minute. Now the sanding will be pretty straightforward. Just use around a 400 grit piece of sanding paper, doesn't matter what brand. And we're just going to gently sand off those little, little scratchy bits on the end there. Next up we're going to go ahead and get out our strong grip cutting mat. And I do mean strong grip. Do not try to do this project without a strong grip, Matt. It will only end in heartache if you try and other mat. And now we're gonna go ahead and press our piece of wood onto the top left-hand corner of our mat. So go ahead and give it a nice extra firm press there. After you have pressed it onto the mat, you're going to go ahead and take a brayer and really roll this thing onto the mat because you do not want it to move at all during the cutting process. Now next you're gonna go ahead and take some regular old painters tape or masking tape or what have you. We're going to tape this down to the board. We are going to tape down all four sides in a perimeter around your board. And don't worry too much if some of the tape is in the cutting area because it really doesn't matter at all. After you have applied all of the tape, go ahead and really press it down really well. And also folded around the edges of your boards so you don't have random tape sticking out everywhere. When you're done, it should look something like this, nice and clean. Now that we have our materials prepped, we're ready to get back into cricket design space. We're gonna go ahead and choose Make it, and then we're going to need to set our base material. So we're going to go ahead and go to Browse materials. And it'll bring up this nice big menu. And the material we're looking for is the 1 16th basswood, which is going to show up in the other category. Now here in the other category, the basswood should show up in about the third or fourth material slot, since I believe it goes alphabetically. So we're going to choose the one 16th password if you are using something else besides that, Like the 132nd basswood or any of the balsa, you can, of course, go ahead and select that instead of the basswood. Select that which goes with the material you are using. After you select your materials, you are going to notice that a little alert pops up under your base materials. It is basically informing you to adjust your star wheels, put in your knife blade and use a stronger at met. So let's tackle the star wheels first. These little wheelie nubs that are on your little rods here. And what you're going to need to do is slide them all the way over to the right. And you can see me pointing at each one of my star wheels. And I've also made little marks on underneath each star wheel so I can remember exactly where I want to put them back to. Here I am. I'm just moving them all the way down to the end because these star wheels, otherwise, if you leave them in position. They will mar your would ensure they're all the way down here as such. Next, we're gonna go ahead and load up the knife blade. The knife blade essentially looks like an exacto blade inside a blade housing. So go ahead and unlatched your blade and go ahead and pull out your regular cutting point and be sure you put it away someplace safe for the meantime. Now, let's go ahead and get that protective cap off of the knife blade. And I want you to pay attention that there's this plastic overdue on the top of this brass wheels. We're going to just make sure that that plastic protective section around the wheel is facing out and the gear is facing in. And then you're just going to go ahead and clamp that in there. And now we're ready to actually load the material. And while you are loading, it is going to help to give this just a little very gentle shove while you hit the arrow button. Now let's talk about accidents. You'll notice that my mat did not load properly. There is a big bubble in the mat. If this kind of thing happens to you, just go ahead and unloaded and reload it again. It's not a huge deal, but you definitely do not want to send it through the cutting process like that. It will cause problems. Here. I've loaded it in a second time. No problem. It takes perfectly this time and we are finally ready to cut. Your machine is ready, go ahead and hit the cut button and it will do its job. Now it's important to note here that while the cricket is cutting wood, it will give you the classic percent progress bar. But it's also going to tell you how many cuts out of 14 passes it has completed. There. No way to change this at all. It is gonna do all of the 15 or 16 total passes until it feels it is done cutting that would however, it will finish before it completes all of those 16 passes. So therefore, you are going to have to babysit this a little bit. Don't just leave it and then leave the room. Stay in the room. You can work on something else, but you will need to babysit it. At any point during the process. You can always hit the pause button and then check how far the cut has come. Pause it. You can gently Prague the peace. Use your fingernail maybe very gently with the exact dough knife and your board just a little bit to see how far the cut has come through. I have ultimately decided that it's going to need a few more passes. After you are done checking, just go ahead and hit the pause button to resume the cut. Now, a little over halfway through all of the 16 passes, I decided to have another look. And I can see that one of the pins definitely wants to pop up. And I just plotted it a little bit with my exacto knife. I was able to get it to pop up then. So at this stage then I am going to go ahead and unload this and finished cutting out just the little bits that need to be got with my exact dough knife. Reason why you want to babysit this and not let it cut 16 times is because it will 100% cut through your strong grip. Matt, I salvage this one by taping back. But as you can see in the beginning of the footage, that it totally just cut completely through my mat. So basically, don't let it eat your mat. So once you are satisfied with your cut, go ahead and unload your mat. After that, carefully remove your tape and then start removing all of your cut pieces. They should be pretty easy to pop out. Use your exact dough knife if you have a little bit of trouble. Also be sure to save your cut scrubs because we're going to be using this further on in the project. So at this point you should have a bunch of little pin bases made out of best one. And we're going to stop this lesson here. In the next lesson, we will sand and begin painting our new little threads. See you in the next class. Bye bye. 4. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 03: Sanding and Staining.: Hello everyone and welcome to lesson three on turning your designs into wooden pin branches. So we left off in the last lesson having just cut out our new wooden pin blanks. A little reminder, don't forget to keep your scrap wood. We're going to need this in a little bit. But before we get to that, we're going to need to do a little bit of sanding because the cricket is not completely perfect. You can see here that I have a couple of little wood chips coming off. The surface might be a little bit too grainy for your liking. I'm also going to sand the surfaces of these as well. Now for the sanding, any old 400 grit sandpaper will do for this part of the process. And you'll just want to smooth things down to your liking. Aside from sandpaper, you can also use regular old Emery board nail files to get into those little hard to reach nooks and crannies around your designs. Here you can watch me sand a few hard to reach corners on the core gaze bot. Now, I do want to mention here that oftentimes basswood can have these really fine fibers of wood fibers on the surface of your pieces. You are really going to want to spend a little extra time during the sanding process and get those down nice and smooth because any little fiber that's standing up is it's eventually going to cause problems when you apply the resin. And it also will cause some problems when you start painting as well. So take a little extra time. Be sure you get everything nice and smooth. Once you have everything sand into your liking, it is now time to apply base colors. In this lesson specifically, we're going to discuss using a base stain. So it lets that nice wood grain show through. But if you want to start off with opaque, that is totally up to you now to make a stain, you are going to water down a little bit of gouache or acrylic paint. Here you can see me. I have a really soupy bit of stain here made from goulash. And that's what I'm going to color my core gaze width. Here is the reason why you save your woods crafts because it makes a really great place for you to swatch your colors and really see how they're going to work on the wood before you commit them to your pieces. Alright, so once you have your paint colors to your liking, It's just time to go ahead and get these things painted. Choose whatever brush is most comfortable for you to use and work pretty quickly on these, because the paint does soak into the wood very quickly. So therefore it dries fairly quickly. You will want to get a nice even coat of your gouache or acrylic staying on. So you don't have any splotchy ***** in your application. After you have your first face done, go ahead and lift them up and just drag your paintbrush across the sides because you will want to get those nice and stained as well. Now because the wood does like to absorb a lot of this water and the pigment. After you have finished painting all of the sides. The chances are that the front face that you started painting first is going to be dry enough so you can go ahead and set that flat down on the piece of paper there and go ahead and start painting the back before everything has completely dried. And here I am, I'm laying my finished painted piece down and I'm gonna go ahead and start painting the back. Now, if you are uncomfortable with this pudding, slightly damp paint down on the paper, That's totally reasonable. And if you want to wait until all the sides completely dry before you paint the backs, that's totally up to you. And I understand. If you do just want to power through it like me, just be sure that you're not setting them down in other pink colors are such, otherwise you might get some transfer. So at this point you're just going to keep, continue on with the painting process. Once you have a piece finished, you'll wanna go ahead and set it aside on a nice clean area of paper and let it dry. Here. In this clip, I'll just leave you with a little bit of footage of me applying a darker navy blue stain to one of my pieces. Just so you can see how different things work out. Alright, now here are all of my completely dry stained pieces. And I want you to notice that the pieces have curled a little bit. Because when the water gets into the wood, the wood grain is naturally going to, like the fibers are going to expand a little bit and it will curve. But this is a completely solvable problem. To solve this, we're just going to impress them beneath some of our heaviest art books. So yes, all those art history books, you've saved all those reference books. You can actually use them again. So at this point, we're just going to leave these under these books overnight tend to flatten out perfectly. And we will pick it up in the next lesson. So that is it for now. And I will see you in the next lesson. Have a great day. Bye-bye. 5. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 04: Painting and Tips and Tricks: Hello everyone and welcome to lesson four on turning your designs into fantastic wooden branches. We left off with the last class having pressed are pieces under books overnight. You can now remove the books and you should find nicely flattened wooden pin forms. If the flatness isn't quite to your liking yet, you can go ahead and leave them under the books longer. For me with this 1 16th inch, would they flattened out overnight perfectly. Alright, so when your pin forms are to your liking, then it's finally time to start painting in those designs. The first thing I like to do is print out a copy of my sketches for reference and collect all of my supplies once I have my supplies together, the first thing I like to do is to very lightly pencil my designs onto my pieces. I just feel it gives me a nice framework to work from. And my pieces don't end up looking to drastically different. Unfortunately, it's a little bit difficult to see my pencil sketches on my pieces because I am putting the bear lightest amount of lead onto my pieces. But hopefully you at least get the idea. And here's a little bit of a more up-close view. So you can kinda see those very faint graphite lines. If you happen to make any mistakes while you're doing this, you can just take any old kneaded eraser and gently tap, slash brush away any lines that aren't where you want them to be. Of course, when it comes to darker stains, it's gonna be really, really hard to see here. I know you can't really see this at all in the video, but you'll just have to look for the little graphite shine to see your design. But I can see it in person. But obviously you can't see it in the video. Once your sketches are done, it's time to go ahead and start applying some paint. Here I am testing out a little bit of acrylic wash on my practice, my scrap piece. And this again is a really important reason to save your scraps because they are excellent for testing stuff on. Now, briefly, I want to show you the reason why we sand the front faces in the back faces. Because when you apply paint, you can see that the little fibers of the wood will start lifting upward and it will make a rough surface. And obviously the smoother your surface, the better it's going to take paint. And the more professional it's going to look. Here you can see me applying some acrylic gouache to the core gaze ears. Acrylic gouache is excellent for this project. And I will start going over some of the other media that you can use. Them really work out really well for this, another media that works really well are Posca paint pen. However, there is one thing I want to make note of on high contrast colors. Sometimes the posca pens can be a little bit, I guess you could say juicy and they can have a tendency to bleed on the woods surfaces. But I have a little bit of a hack for that. And here you can see what I mean is this little circle is just a little bit rough around the edges and I would like it to be a little bit cleaner. So here's my little tip for getting around this. You're going to take a white polychrome, most colored pencil. I'm sure that any other brand will work fine. And you're gonna go ahead and draw your design that you want and go ahead and fill it in. Here you can watch me applying it to one of the kitty pins faces. I'm just drawing a big circle. And I'm gonna go ahead and I'm going to fill it in and I'll go ahead and fast-forward to the end piece and result. This will leave you with a little waxy barrier between the wood and the paint you want to apply. And therefore, it really cuts out any bleeding problems. Once you have your colored pencil plotted out, you can go ahead and start applying the posca. I think you can see here how much cleaner and nicer these edges are. I just really think it's worth the extra effort to get those nice clean edges because it looks so professional and just lovely. Basically. You can of course, just use acrylic paint to do this and you won't have the extra steps. I just find it's a lot easier to work with a pen style tool to get those clean edges because my brushwork. Whereas I wish it would be better, it's not a merely as perfect as when I'm working with the pens. So basically you can consider this kind of like a nice little hack for you if you also are frustrated with your brushwork. And now here's a little view of the eyeball whites that doesn't have my hand in the way, basically. Alright, so for my next tips for painting on wood, we're going to go ahead and add a few dots of water to some acrylic wash. I'm going to use this on the core. Good. Now basically, what you want to do is you want to thin out your paint enough so it has a nice glide factor, but yet still keep that opaque consistency. Your mileage will probably vary a little bit depending upon what your designs call for. But just keep on messing with it and testing it on your scrap pieces until you get it where you like it. Now the reason why we thin the acrylic paint a little bit is because it makes it much easier to apply. It's a lot smoother to work with and your brush can just glide across your pieces easily. The other reason is because acrylic wash is essentially a plastic paint. The thicker that your paint is, the more clumpy it is going to be, it's going to start creating a 3D surface. What you want this paint to do is to level nice and flat because it will look cleaner and much more professional. Also, don't worry too much about messing up your paint consistency because in the end, if your paint is a little too thin, it doesn't really matter because you could just paint over it again in a nice new layer. And then you should eventually be able to get a nice opacity with a nice smooth finish. So just don't stress about it and it'll all be okay. I know that. I like to say that art is basically a series of problems and mistakes that you must overcome to make a final, beautiful product. So just have fun with it and go with the flow and do those problem-solving puzzles. Next media I want to discuss is using Copic multi liners. For some reason the disposable ones and particularly the large tip one's, had a tendency to bleed through the wood grain. You can see an example of me trying it out now on my little wood scraps. And you can clearly see the bleed just spread right after you apply the ink. However, if you use the higher-quality SP molt eyeliner and you use a smaller tip like a 0.3. The bleed is much less considerable. You really there's practically none. I actually have no idea why this is, but I'm gonna go ahead and take it as a win. So here I am going ahead and using the Copic multi eyeliner to get the little dots of the eyes on my coordinates. Again, I like to use as many Pen tools as I can simply because it is really, really difficult to get a little perfect circular dot a pen brush. But if you have that capability, by all means, go ahead and get out your brushes and apply the acrylic paint. I also want to add that the Copic multi liners work great. Going over top of any acrylic gouache or acrylic paint. And you can also use your posca pens on top of the acrylic gouache as well, with no issues. And it is of course, really nice just to be able to take your posca pens and your multi liners and do those tiny little bits of fine detailing that to kind of bring out a little bit of pizzazz on your pieces and make them look a little less plane. And here is just a little close-up of some of that detailing. Alright, so that's about it on all the tips and tricks I learned while I was painting these wooden pieces. So I'm going to end this lesson here. And you can spend the time detailing all of your little pieces. And we will come back in the next lesson and start prepping them for resin. Thank you for joining me on this journey and I will see you in a minute lesson. Have a great day. Bye. 6. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 05: Applying a Resin Dome.: Hello everyone and welcome to lesson five on turning your designs into wooden pin virtues. At this point in the class, you should have your pins completely painted and ready to take resin. If you've already resin domed in some of my other classes, it will still pay to pay attention to this lesson as resin works differently on wood. And here's a quick rundown of supplies. You're going to want a two-part resin epoxy. You're going to want some mixing cups, gloves, and something to apply the resin width and of course your pins. And it really helps to have a silicon mat underneath where you're working on resin so you don't mess up your surfaces with supplies out of the way. Let's go ahead and mix some resin. Here. You are going to be pouring out equal parts hardener and resin, both in separate measuring cups. Both of these cups, I know it's hard to tell on the video, have fluid measuring and I make little black marks with a Copic marker just to help me see. Also while you're pulling the resin, be sure you keep track of which part of the resin is in which cup? I usually just keep my bottles of resin behind each cup to keep track of which one is which. Here you can see the measurements better on the side and you can see we're really close to having equal parts. Resin and hardener. Do take your time on this and get it as close to exact as you possibly can to much of one or the other will cause your resin not to set properly. Once you are satisfied with your measurements, it's time to mix the resin. To stir the resin, you can use any old craft stick like I have here. And this one has actually seen multiple uses as well. Go ahead and pour the hardener into the resin. Also, I want to make note that as soon as you start mixing your two parts of resin, you will only have about 45 minutes of work time. This is plenty of time, but you shouldn't stress, but do keep that in mind. And as you can see, I'm using my stir stick to scrape out as much of the hardener as possible so we get as even of the two parts as possible. Now, the art resin instructions say to stir this really well for a good three minutes and don't forget to scrape the sides while you're stirring. This is important. So you don't have some oddball mixing of things cannot quite mixed because that will also cause your resin to not cure properly. After it's mixed, there are gonna be bubbles in the resin, but do not be alarmed, they will go away. Alright, we're ready to go ahead and start applying the resin. Go ahead and take your little applicator stick and be careful not to get the resin everywhere, but go ahead and give a nice dollop to your first pin. Here. I don't quite have enough resin on the piece, so I wanna go ahead and just add a little more so it'll be easier to spread it around. Once you feel like you have enough resin on your piece, then you can take your applicator stick and just very gently spread the resin over the surface. You will want to push the resin all the way to the outer edges of your pieces, but you do not want the resin to spill over the outer edges. If at anytime you feel like you do not have enough resin on the Surface, Go ahead and apply some more. You're going to be aiming to have a really nice high dome on these pieces without of course filling over the edge. And another thing to make note of when you're working with wood is that resin does like to soak into the wood, which means you're going to be losing some of the volume of the resin. And I believe later in this video we'll go over adding a little bit extra resin. After that happened. After you get your resin on your first piece, you're going to go ahead and grab your heat gun. Any old heat gun will do. And if you have a torch, that's even better. The reason why we use the heat gun is to, of course pop the bubbles. And here I'm using the heat gun on this piece. And you can see the bubbles because of the heat are rising to the surface and therefore being popped. One thing I like to do is after each piece I finish, I go ahead and get out my heat gun. I use the heat gun on the new piece as well as the older piece because there will still be some bubbles coming up to the surface and you will want to use the heat gun again. And of course keep your pieces covered while you're not working on them. Now, as I said before, the woods likes to absorb the residence, so you're going to want to periodically check these pieces. And it helps to just kinda get a different angle on your pieces to see that nice glossy dome. If you happen to know, notice rather any deficiencies in that nice dome like you start to see a little bit of wood brain. Go ahead and apply some more resin. You probably have about a half an hours worth of time to do this in. But as it starts getting close to 45 minutes, you'll want to stop. Otherwise you can mar your designs. Alright, so once your 45-minute work time with the resin is done, you're going to want to go ahead and pop these under some plastic so it prevents dust from landing on the resin. And you're going to let these cure for a full 24 hours. Don't mess with them. You'll just end up with sadness because you'll end up messing them up. Just leave them be for 24 hours. Alright, so that's it for this lesson. And in the next lesson we are going to go over adding the pin bucks to your pieces and also tackling if you had any mistakes or accidents happen and how to fix those. So thank you for joining us for this lesson, and I will see you in the next one. Have a great day. Bye-bye. 7. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 06: Applying the Pin Backs.: Hello and welcome to lesson number six on turning your designs into wooden pin approaches. We start off this lesson with our pins having rested for a full 24 hours for the resin dome to cure. Now it's time to go ahead and get out our Pindex. And as always, I like to check and make sure every single pin back I plan to use works. Check and make sure that it opens and closes easily. Because the last thing you wanna do is to essentially super glue these things on the back with resin when one of them is broken. And once you have your pin box selected, go ahead and collect all your supplies and get your little workstation setup. Okay, I want to pause here and mention a little something I had told you in the previous lesson, how the resin likes to soak into the wood. And you can see on the backs of these core good pins how it's done. So the resin has absorbed into the wood and width up along the grain formation. And this is nothing to be concerned about. As soon as we put resin on the backs, this won't show but this is just let see let you see how much the resin actually soaks into the wood. I also want to mention that I like to go ahead and sign the backs of my pins before I apply the resin. I just think it's a nice touch and you can choose whether or not you would like to do that. You don't have to obviously. Alright, once you have everything squared, it's time to go ahead and mix resin. Now we're going to be mixing the resin the exact same way that we did in the last lesson. If you need a refresher, just hop back and review and then come forward. I'm not going to repeat it all again because I don't want to bore you. Alright, so once the resin is mixed, we're gonna go ahead and dab it onto the backs. Now when we're putting resin on the backs of these, you aren't going to want to build up as big of a dome as you did on the faces. Because if you have too much resin on the backs is going to wick up into the pin backs whenever you put them on. And it's basically going to glue all the mechanisms shut. And you don't want that to happen. So you want to be sparing and just apply a nice thin layer that is just the right thickness so that when you put the pin back in, it's going to hold it in there, but it will not wake up and get caught in the mechanism. Once you have a nice even coating of resin like I have here, you are going to want to go ahead and get out your heat gun and pop those bubbles again, because there will be bubbles on the backs as well. Now once you have pop the bubbles, it's time to put on the pin back. And I want to call attention to the little class here. What you want is you want the little clasp facing upwards. Facing towards the sky like this rather than off to the side. It just helps prevent resin to wick up into the class. Then you're just going to pop it on your little piece, like so. And then just didn't lead tap it with your fingers. You can also use a little bit of it like a toothpick to position things and get it exactly where you want it. And here is my second pin back. And you can see that the class is facing upwards. And again, I'm just going to gently pop it onto the back of the chord G pen and move it into position with a toothpick. Here's a little close-up footage of the two pins that I just completed just so you can get an idea of about how much resin I have applied on the backs. If you feel like your coverage isn't quite as good as you'd like it to be. You can go ahead and add a couple of little droplets of resin with a toothpick. And another thing I like to do is to try to get a little droplet of resin and put it inside those two little holes in the, the pin back. If you can get a little bit of resin in there very carefully, it will really create a super-strong bond and you're less likely to have the pin back breaking away from the brooch and somebody losing their beautiful brooch. Alright, and here's a little bit of a side view for you so you can see exactly how much a resin I have on my pieces. So hopefully that helps give you a better idea of how much you can put on yours. And go ahead and be sure you hit it with your heat gun again just to loosen up any bubbles. It especially if you see them. You can do this periodically within about a half an hour before the resin hardens. Okay. And once you are satisfied with how your pieces are looking, Be sure you cover them up to protect them from the dust. The dust is the enemy. And then we're gonna go ahead and leave these cure for good 24 hours. Alright, so I'm gonna go ahead and stop this lesson here. And then in our final lesson, I will go over how you fix things. If you have a little accident, because accidents do happen. And part of being a good artist is solving those problems. So let's solve those problems together. And I will see you in the next class. Have a great day. Bye-bye. 8. Wooden Pin Class - Lesson 07: Fixing Accidents: Hello and welcome to lesson seven on turning your design into lovely wooden pin approaches. This lesson is going to be all about mishaps and how to fix them. As you can see here, I have an errant resin blob on my otherwise perfect kitty face. That happened because I apparently put it in a small puddle of resin with the core game pin here. You'll notice that in around the edges, around the ears that there is just not enough resin coverage because it did soak in. And I'm going to be showing you how to fix these two things. Now because the pin backs are attached, I'm going to need to put them on my domain tray in order for them to lay flat, to take more resin on the top. Now to fix these very minor defects, all we're gonna need to do is just apply another coat of resin to these. Now, since we're mixing up such a small batch of resin, I'm just going to use this little medicine measuring cup that I have. And I'm going to put both parts EQ, into the same cup using the equal measurements on the side isn't why I'm doing this is simply because I do not want to waste resin because it is expensive. So when you're mixing resin all in a single cup, you wanna go ahead and start with just the resin and I'm pouring it until the five mark on this. And then I'm gonna go ahead and double-check my measuring before I put the hardener in. Here I go pouring the hardener in. And keep in mind, we're keeping equal measurements of both parts. Keep in mind that this is risky if you are a beginner with resin. Just keep that in mind as a caveat. Otherwise, if you'd been doing resin for awhile, this is no big deal. You still need to stir everything exactly like you would store a stir, a full batch of resin. So if it a good stir, scrape the sides while you're staring and don't skimp on this. And after you have stirred it for the prescribed amount of time, it's time to go ahead and add another smaller resin dome on top of these to fix the problems. You won't need as much resin this time, you just need to get a nice even coverage. And then let's get the resin to level off nicely. Also be careful and be mindful of your edges because you don't want to accidentally have some drips go underneath your piece. And then you have a resin drip you have to fix on the backside of your piece after this. So just a nice thin layer, as long as it looks nice and smooth, that will do the job. Alright, so once you have a nice even coat on there, give them a good check to be sure you hit them with your heat gun to pop any bubbles because there will be bubbles again. And then if everything looks good, you shouldn't as always be sure you cover your pieces to protect them from getting dust. As I said, dust is the enemy. Now, one more thing I want to mention is you are going to be left with a little bit of resin in a glass cup or a plastic cup. If it's glass, you need to go wash this out immediately and be sure you do not have hardened resin in this so you can use it again. If it's a plastic measuring cup and you don't care about it, then just go ahead and pinch it. That pretty much wraps up this class on turning your designs into wooden benches. I hope you had a lovely time and created some lovely projects. And I do really hope that you will share them in the class space for sharing your projects. I would absolutely love to see them. If you are curious about any of my personal work, you can visit my website, Amy, and my socials are apt to Cuno find me on Twitter and Instagram. Thank you for joining me in this class adventure, and I hope I will see you in my classes in the future. Have a great day. Bye bye.