Create Wood Slice Art with Your Watercolor Paintings | Jen Shannon | Skillshare

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Create Wood Slice Art with Your Watercolor Paintings

teacher avatar Jen Shannon

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

9 Lessons (32m)
    • 1. Wood Slice Art Trailer

      0:45
    • 2. Suggested Materials

      6:18
    • 3. Prepping the Wood Slice

      3:00
    • 4. Preparing Your Paper

      1:01
    • 5. Speed Painting

      1:35
    • 6. Varnishing Your Painting

      1:58
    • 7. Trimming Your Painting

      8:55
    • 8. Mounting Your Painting - Updated

      4:06
    • 9. Attaching The Screw and Twine - Updated

      3:56
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About This Class

In this class, you'll learn how to create wood slice art using your watercolor paintings. You can access the supply list by visiting my website and entering password: littleskillsharefox Please note that some of the links are affiliate links and I receive a small commission when you purchase through my link. I ALWAYS appreciate it!

You can take what you learn in this video to create beautiful works of art that you can sell online, at trade fairs, or give as gifts to your family. 

I hope you enjoy this course and I look forward to seeing what you create!

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Jen Shannon

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Transcripts

1. Wood Slice Art Trailer: In this course, you'll learn how to take your watercolor paintings and turn them into woods like art. Whether you're creating home to core or ornaments for your tree, you'll learn how to take your watercolor paintings and put them on toe would slices to create beautiful art. You'll also receive a supply list to show you everything you need to get started. By the end of this course, you'll know everything you need to know about creating would slice art that you can use, whether you're selling it online or giving it to a friend. I hope you'll join me in this class, and I look forward to seeing what you create. 2. Suggested Materials: in this video, I'm going to show you all of the supplies that you'll need to get started with Watercolor woods like art. Now, whether you're making a piece of what slice art for someone's home, that might sit on a fancy frame or if it will be mounted to a wall or if it's a simple ornament like this, this will be the same process for all of those things. So this is the one that I made for this tutorial and you'll see get to see how I made this . But I just wanted to have it here to show you. You'll also have a complete list of all of my supplies linked in the description of this course. It will be on my website. There is a password, and the password is little skill share. Fox and I will also leave that in the description, and there will be a look Teoh all of these supplies that you can purchase some of them are affiliate links. So I do get a small commission on the items that you purchase for those on some of these things I put as a recommendation. You don't need to buy exactly what I have. Just use what you can or what you already have. And if you would like to splurge on these things, you certainly could. So the first thing is gonna be would slices. These came, I think, in a pack of 20. I ordered them off of Amazon. They all look pretty good. They have different shapes and varieties of heights to their little notches that they have here. So I was very pleased with the fact that I bought of 20 of these. The next thing that you're going to need is watercolors. Now, this is a travel watercolor pack by Windsor Newton. I actually have my watercolors over here that I use separately, but this is a a nice, affordable one that you can purchase. Now the inside is quite ugly. This is the one that my four year old uses. And, as you can tell, she's made a massive all of it. And this is actually not even one that came with the original one of these. So don't use this inside as a reference. But Windsor Newton makes this nice little travel set that you can use to do any kind of artwork. Mixture colors together and such. That's very affordable. So I highly recommend this. You're going to need some twine again. Just some crafters twine. I got this off Amazon. You're also going to need some watercolor paper. No, I highly recommend arches. Watercolor paper. It is absolutely the best paper. It's 100% cotton. So you're gonna have a really easy time painting on this. However, the disclaimer is that this is not the end all be all when it comes to putting paper on wood slices. When I sell these, I sell them as a professional. And so I want to make sure that I'm using professional quality products, including arches paper. So I prefer are just called press £140 paper. You don't have to buy this, that this is what I'm using. For this tutorial. You're gonna need a pencil. You're going to need some scissors, an Exacto knife and cutting mat. You're going to need some of these. I screws. I hope Cruise. I bought them in this color, but they come in a variety of different colors. Now these two things are optional. This is Windsor Newton Gold Inc. And this is designer quash. I use these in a lot of my woods likes ornaments because they add a nice dimension to them , especially the snow scenes. Um, which I'll show you some of those in just a moment, but these are optional, but wanted to let you know what I use for those things. And the gold is really just for extra fabulous nous. You're going to need some men wax water based poly acrylic. This is polyurethane. I get it in the clear satin finish. Um, you can get this on Amazon as well. You're going to need some came or varnish. I thought this on Amazon. This protection watercolor from smudges, water drips anything that might happen to it. After you send it out to your client or the person that's getting it, you're going to need some pH neutral PB A glue. You don't have to buy this brand or one that's this size. This is the only one, though, that I could find. And so I purchased this one, and obviously a little goes a long way and this will last forever. Lastly, actually, second toe lastly, you'll need a drill. You don't absolutely need a drill but it will make your life a lot easier. And then less, but not least, is a brush. I used the Princeton Heritage Round number eight Brush. This is kind of my go to brush. I use this for just about everything. It's well loved, and I actually have a brand new one. So I'll show you how well loved this one is. So you can see it's very, very well loved just to show you some examples of some of the other would slice art that I've done. Um, you can see where I've used the whitewash here and throughout here to kind of create this mist. I'm just a little snow patch. Here's another one that I meet with snow. Well, mountain off to the side. This one is kind of like a springy mountain. This one is like a snowbank with some trees. This one's kind of the same thing, So these are the only ones I have left from my winter season last season. I can't say they're the best of the best, the ones that were the best of the best I don't have anymore because they're happily hanging on someone's tree somewhere. But so These are the ones that I have left. I wanted to show you, and with that said Let's get started. 3. Prepping the Wood Slice: to start out, you'll want to rebel would slice out of your pile. I tend to look for ones that have these nice, big notches on them. But you do have to be careful because they can be easily knocked off. So I like to just kind of wife away Any debris on both sides. It's gonna be covered anyway. But this makes it easier for things to adhere to on. Then I decide how I want or which side I want to put this on. So I think I'm in it. Hang it this way. So I'll do this side vs. This side's gonna take our poly acrylic water based men Wax. This is polyurethane. Yes, you can see minds really old and while used. And then I'm just taking a regular paintbrush. This is an old one of mine and giving that a good spin. And then I take that. Can I put it over? And you want to make sure you get everything covered? Really, really well, that way it's completely sealed. Do you go kind of over the edge is just a little bit onto the bark just to ensure that if any glue kind of spills over. It doesn't make contact with Mark. And you could do the whole bark if you liked that. Look, I'll do that for the sake of this tutorial, but I normally don't. I'm just gonna go back and forth again, making sure it's nice and even that there really isn't any pooling on any of it. You can see that looks nice and even generally you want to do this in a well ventilated area. But for the sake of this tutorial doing it right here and then because this is water based , I just put it right into a mason jar of water to clean it up. You could also use a brush here if you want. Now this is gonna have to dry for a little while. According to this, it's two hours drive time and then you can see in it down and whatever else you want, I don't stand it. I just put the one code of poly acrylic on there and let it dry. That's it for preparing would slice 4. Preparing Your Paper: The next step of this process is very simple. A swell I have here. My arches, cold press, watercolor paper. Um, this is just an extra piece I had laying around. You can see it does have some staining on it, but I'm not worried about that. We're doing some other projects. So what I do is I put the would slice directly over part of the paper that I'm going to want a paint on. And I just do kind of a loose tracing around that Obviously it's gonna be much smaller because you're gonna have to cut it to be about the size of this lighter colored part of the wood. But this will give you a rough estimate as to where you need to keep your painting in. From here, I go about doing my painting. Now, those tutorial is not a tutorial on how to paint with watercolors. But I will do a recording sped up so that you can see what that looks like. 5. Speed Painting: 6. Varnishing Your Painting: Now that this is complete, what I want to do is let it dry completely. And then I'm going to spray it. With Came are varnish, and I will do to total coats came or Cornish looks like this. And according to the directions, it says to shake the camp for two minutes, apply one thin coat. Um, let's see here by multiple thin coats to help avoid runs and drips. Um, of course, apply in a sweeping motion that's pretty self explanatory, but it says it drives in 15 minutes, and then you can handle it after two hours. So if you're going to do multiple coats, eggs a little drive for 15 minutes and then redo another coat and then let it dry for two hours, some outside to spray on the Kmart varnish. Looks like this. I've shaken it, and I like to just get a box sprayed in. And as you can see here, I'm just using a bath and body works box. And so I'm just going Teoh, spray it like this. Okay, so I'm gonna wait 15 minutes and let that dry, and then I will come back and spirit against All right, so it has been exactly 15 minutes. And now I'm just going to spray another layer of came are varnish. I'm gonna wait for this to drive for another 15 minutes and then bring it inside to finish drawing in the course of two hours. All right, these have both dried completely, and we are ready to move on to the next step in the process. 7. Trimming Your Painting: through this next part of the process, we are going to work on getting the painting cut out to fit onto this would slice. I usually like to start with a pair of scissors and just kind of cut out around the perimeter. Okay, so this is just a rough cut out of what we had done earlier here to give us an idea of where we're gonna cut. No, I generally like my paintings to be kind of offset with the trees, kind of coming in and leading into the rest of it. So I know for me, I'm going to probably cut it a little closer to like this. And if you look here, you can see that this pencil mark goes underneath there. So I'm perfectly within my bounds to be able to do that. And I'm going to continue cutting around where that boundary is drawn. Okay, so this guy got varnished in there. Okay? So if you take a look based on how you position it, you can get more sky or more tree. So if you did it, don't here. Then you would probably have to cut off around right here, where the birds are, and we don't want that. We want to have kind of a good balance between all of it. So what I like to do at this point is start with smaller sections of it. So if I know, for example, that this area here needs to be a little bit more rounded than I'll start by rounding out this area and know that the base of the tree is going Teoh match up here and I have to apologize. If you hear all that pounding. It's my kids going crazy upstairs before bed. Okay, so let's see here. So we want to try to make it as close as possible, and we may have to kind of rotate that more like this so that this cut fits more with this lighter color on the wood. So I'm pretty happy with that so far, and I'm going to start by lightly cutting this way and again fitting that in that little nook there. Sometimes, as I cut, I noticed that other things fit good in different areas, so it might even kind of take on a different a different existence altogether. So let's see here. So I think if I turn this this way. I get a little bit nicer of of a fit there. So I'm gonna continue going along this line here. And what I like to dio is move this slightly away and take a look at this curve and just barely eyeball it here. I'm not pushing very hard with my Exacto knife at all. Just enough to get me a very, very small in Dent. You see if I can show that to you up close. If you look right here, you can see that line. That's all I'm doing is putting a line in there so I can see where I want to cut and then use my actual Matt to cut the paper. So you may have to cut a couple of times to get a nice clean cut, especially if your blade is a little bit older or if it's been used a few times. All right, so I'm gonna bring this down a little bit further, maybe even more so like that, and just take a peek here to see how this curves around and again. Just making a slight in dent where this curves around here so that I can follow this grain of the wood, and it doesn't have to be perfect. That's one thing I think I need to make very clear. Is that perfection? You're never gonna achieve perfection here. So just go with what you can, Um, and without trying to get my head in front of the camera, I'm trying to see where my mark is, and I think I okay, I'm gonna bring this back in here. So far, I like the way that's going. So let's bring this from here to here and again. Make another small line. No, this isn't the most scientific way of doing it. Um, but this gives me the results that I like, even though it is a little TZ tedious at times. Okay, that looks good. So far. So now let's go this way with it. And this one's gonna need a little bit more rounding out. You see, it's really starting to take a nice shape, take a nice shape. One thing I'll also say is that if so, normally, what I'm doing a painting. I have it taped down so that it drives flat. This is obviously not drive flood because I didn't take it down. Can't keep it to this. Um, but you can always turn this over spray just a very light spritz of water on it, and then put an iron over it for about five seconds, and that will flatten it out Really nice if that bothers you. - And I think that that looks pretty good. The last thing I like to dio because I want to make sure that I don't have these harsh edges. Really? Here is I go around with the scissors and I try to keep the scissors moving in one slow study kind of cut all the way around, and I just follow those edges that I've already cut. Right? And that makes it look really nice just like that. So that is how you cut out your painting for the would slice. 8. Mounting Your Painting - Updated: All right, So now that we've got this cut out, what I'd like to do is take it and flip it over and about the same position as I have it laying on top of here. This is where your pH neutral PVH glue is going to come into play. Mine didn't come with any sort of like cap to put on it, so I just put this pin down in it. Um, sometimes he can wind up with some glue there in the nozzle like this here, we kill. Okay, so here you have a couple different options. I like to just use my finger because I don't mind it, but you could use a brush here if you want. What you want to do is move this around so that it's as evenly distributed as possible. I like to go around it, um, first going almost to the edges, but not all the way. And then use my finger after I pick it up. Teoh, go over the edges. What I want to avoid is this pushing out the sides when I go to put it on the actual would slice. It's not a big deal if you do get some on there, but it's not. It's not the professional look that you want. Be careful. If you get glue on this finger underneath that, you don't touch it to the painting. Gonna extinct? Don't. Not to again, not a huge deal. It leaves kind of AM post a glossy appearance. You've accidentally gotten it, and I usually just keep a towel for this reason. So now we're gonna take this and line it up as best we can with where we know what's going . Set it down, wipe off my fingers and then I'm going to press it into place knowing that I've got just a little bit of forgiveness. If I need to move it and it'll start I pressing it and pulling it towards the end edge, we want to make sure these edges stay glued down Really well, you can see where it's coming out there. Okay, so once you have it pushed down into place and you're fairly certain that you're not gonna have any issues with where you've placed it, what I like to do is find a clean surface to take this and put it upside down on and then rest a book on it that will keep this little lip here. Press down while it dries. Do you see this lip here? You want that press down this far as you can, And just be careful to not get back on your painting. So I like to let this dry for 24 hours before I call it done. But in the meantime, you can go ahead and drill your hole in the top to make an ornament. I will show you how to do that in the next video. 9. Attaching The Screw and Twine - Updated: All right. So in this last step of assembling this to be ready, I use a little island Screw that looks like this. And I use the drill to drill the hole that it's going to go into. This is a smallest Drillbit that I have in order to drill a hole, and it's about the size of the threads here, so you'll generally want to use one that's the same size or one size smaller. Now, you can do this without drilling a hole, but I find it a lot more difficult. So I use my husband's drill again. You don't need to do this, but I used Israel to do this. All right, so I like toe eyeball about where I think the top should be. So I'm thinking about right here. So I'll just make a little swirl there to market, which you can see there. Now that's gonna be too far up for me. Um, so I'm gonna turn it this way and you'll see what I mean by too far up. When I drill, it is close to the middle as I can. So I'm going. Teoh, move the drill bit to the middle. Here and drill the hole that way, and you'll want to go straight down with it nice and slow if you don't go nice and slow, you could break this bark piece off right here. So, um yeah, and then you'll just take your I've been put it in here and twist it. You could also put some glue on there and put it down in there like this to pass, obscured in tow. Help glue it in if you prefer. But that looks good to me. I'm not concerned about this little drill hole here. I generally don't have that problem. Um, but what I do as I take some twine and my scissors, I try not both ends to tie them together just like that. And then I'm gonna take this and put it through the eyes. Look, a little bit of messing and then take this through this loop, Sprinkle it tight. I won't even know the whole was there. And that is how you make would slice ornament part. Now you can do the same thing on any would slice. It doesn't have to be drilled with hole and made into a Nord Ament I've made. Would slice art for my dad. That is on a very large piece of wood. Um, same concept painting very similar to this, but with snow. And it turned out beautifully. You can put it on a stand. Um, we bought one of those stands that you would see like China China plates displayed on, and it just looks really nice. So I hope that you enjoyed this class. Thank you so much for watching. And I will see you in another one very soon. Bye.