Beach Resin Coasters Class

1. Beach Resin Coasters Class Introduction: Beach resin is so popular right now. I am as obsessed with it as a lot of other people are. In this class, we're gonna be learning how to create beach resin Coasters, which are fabulous because their artwork, but it can also be functional. Let me go show you what we're going to be creating. These are the clusters that we're going to be creating. You're gonna be creating four clusters that are beach reason. We're gonna be using some color shift powder. I don't know whether it's because my Bridgestone is opal or something, but I have a thing for color shift, pretty much anything iridescent anything. And these micro powders that we're gonna be using have a beautiful quality to them. They're nice and sparkly, and they also have a lovely color shift to them. This class comes with a supply list where our list everything that I am using to create these coasters. So if you're wanting to use the same supplies, you can find them through that supply list. I also share with you the type of resin that I like to use. And you can choose whether you want to use the same resin or a different one. If you do choose to use a different run different resin, you may have slightly different results as this is what I know works for me, but you're welcome to try it if you happen to have it on hand. Now let's go create some beautiful posters. 2. Prepping the back of the Coasters: Before we do any resin on our Coasters, the first thing we need to do is prep the back of our cluster so that any resin drips can be removed for them when we're done. Now, I have just containers recycled from things that have been bought at the grocery store that I like to use a prop this up while I am working. And all of this mess below is from past projects. So the nice thing about that resin on there from past projects is it holds my things together so I can have it almost as if it's in one piece. Now, normally when I create beach pieces, I like to put finishing wax on the back of my piece in order to remove the drops afterwards. You could do that with this, but I like to use something else instead and that is liquid latex. So I'm just pouring some on the center of the cost here, and I'm just using a silicone brush to help push it to the size. We're not trying to get over the edges, we're just trying to push it to the sides. The first little bit just to get it nicely to the sides. And then I want to have a little bit of a thicker coat to make it easier to get off because those resins drops will come in. I want to say probably about a quarter of an inch or so. It seems a little bit tedious to start, but I promise it's going to end up making life easier. When it comes time to removing the drips. Need a little bit more. The brush that I'm using is just a silicone brush. It works perfectly for pushing liquid latex wherever I want it to go. Then I'm, when I'm done, latex will dry on this brush and just read off. The nice thing about using liquid latex with this is when it's dry, it's kind of a little bit sticky and tacky. When we go flip it over into our future isn't over top. It's going to be tacky and grip to our containers here. Let us do this one here. For the rest of this, I'm just going to be quiet and I will let you watch. All right. There we go. We're going to leave it all to dry. Right now. Obviously it is cream and opaque. When it's dry, it goes translucent, so it's very easy to tell when it's completely dry. You may have noticed on this one that some of it poured down the side. If as I've been moving it, I got some on the front, I can easily just take that off, peel it off before I pour any residue over top. So we need to let that dry completely. 3. How much Resin will I need?: While we're waiting for our liquid latex to dry and it takes several hours or overnight. So this is not something that's going to happen super quickly, but you'll be appreciative that you did it. We're going to figure out how much resin we're gonna need to mix for each layer. I'm using moss epoxy resin. If you Google most epoxy resin calculator, it comes up with this fancy page here. These coasters or four-by-four, this calculator only measures or calculates for squares and rectangles, that sort of thing. There's no way to measure this for a circle, but there are four inches across. I am going to pretend this is eight by eight. Then this thickness is for the thinnest possible coat, which is totally fine for what we're doing. We want nice thin coats. It is going to tell me that I need to point to two ounces for each layer. Now because we're doing circles instead of squares, I'm going to make that less when I go to make my resident and when my next to the resin, there's Parts a and Part B indeed equal parts of each one. So I will mix less than two ounces. I'll probably actually mix, I want to say 1.5 ounces simply because knowing from doing this for awhile when I mix what they call four, I tend to have a lot dripping off the side that cures on my table, so I don't need that. And these coats that we're doing needs to be super thin. That is for the first coat, for the next codes after that, because we're doing beach waves, we're gonna do less and less. And then the final coat is going to be just a clear coat over top of it to even everything out. And then I'll go back to what I made or what I mixed for the original first layer. But we'll get to that. When we get to that. For the first layer, probably about two ounces an ounce and a half. I always have molds to my side so that when I have, if I had extra resin, I just put it into moles, I do experiments with it. It's a great way so that it doesn't go to waste. But you can play with it. Just try some things that you were wanting to try but didn't really want to mix resin for try it out. Then there we go. That's how much we're going to mix. We will see you in the next video when this is completely cured and we pour our first layer. 4. First Resin Layer: Alright, so our liquid latex has completely dried. You can see exactly how different it looks once it is dry. So I'm going to turn them over. That is on the bottom. I'm using most epoxies art pro resin. For this, you need to mix equal parts of both part a and part B, and then you need to mix it for three minutes. I've already done that so that you don't have to sit there watching me mixed resin while mixing, I did scrape down the sides regularly to make sure that everything was evenly mixed. These cups have measurements along beside that I've highlighted in black sharpie to make them a little bit more legible. I'm going to add my mic, a powder to color. My resume is put it in there. I'm using this set of chameleon Micah powders. They've got a color shift property to the others. Really, really pretty. And I think it's gonna look really pretty for coasters. I'm going to make a color that is going to be more of the sand on the beach. We're going to put it over the entire surface just to a thin coat over the surface before we start doing the beach waves. I've got a little bit in there. Let's mix it around. Then we'll see if I need to add more. Obviously, if I've already added more, I can't take it away. But keep in mind too that because the resin is clear, you're not gonna be seeing unless you had a lot of mica tends not to go super opaque. I'm making sure to scrape the sides so that I'm getting everything all mixed up there. Then if I have any extra resonance but molds to the side that I usually pour it into. Just so nothing goes to waste. All right, so I'm gonna put a little bit down on each coaster and then I'm going to use that silicon brush that I use for the liquid latex. And I am going to push it to the edges. And it's totally fine if it goes over the edges. We're just trying to get a nice thin layer to coat the surface and I probably need to put a little bit more on. It's probably better to go all the way to the surface or the edges. This brush makes it really easy to move it around. You could also use this juristic that you were stirring your resin width. And it will go over the edges and that's totally fine. That's why we have our surface protected. Once we have it all the way to the edges, we're going to use a heat gun or I don't need that tip on there for right now. We're going to use a heat gun and I'm going to use low-speed and just pop all the bubbles that are on the surface. While you're doing that. That also keeps the resident up and it makes it a little bit more slowly. So you'll find more flow over the edges. Once you don't see any more bubbles, move on to the next one. I'll do this about every 101520 minutes or so for the first hour or so, keep watching it. Then after that, if I see anything on the surface of a bubble or profit, if it's particle from the air, I'll use a toothpick to just skip it out for the first couple of hours. Go. Now we're going to let that cure. Like I said, I'll be just checking it every 15 minutes or so for the first hour. And then after that, I'll be just checking it periodically for the first several hours. And then I will see you tomorrow and we'll do our first wave. 5. Second Resin Layer, Creating the First Wave: Right, our first layer is completely cured and we're ready to do our first wave. Now, do you see how this is darker than this? It's because this was slightly raised on a fold in on my the shower curtain that I have protecting my space right now. It has cured, not level, but I've flattened it out with the next couple of layers, it will end up being just fine. But just so you know, you do need to make sure that your stuff is completely flat. And normally I do when I'm working with a canvas, these are a little bit harder just because they're smaller pieces. I've got my resident all mixed according to the directions on the package. I have two other containers here. One is going to stay clear. Then one is going to be colored with the white pigment for our waves. I don't need a ton. And I definitely want to make sure that I have enough and that I don't run out. Once again, I've got moles to the side. If for any extra resume, just pour them into the molds. For the white, I'm just using some pixel white here. I'm just putting a couple of drops in and then we will mix it and check it. When you're mixing liquids into your resin, has an acrylic paint, the whites for the waves and stuff like that. You want to make sure that what you add isn't more than 10% of what the resin that is there because otherwise your resume will not dry, clear it when it comes to whites. I'd never have to add that much to know if you have enough, lift up your stir stick, and if it is completely opaque on that statistic, you are good to go. If you can still see the color of your stir stick underneath, then you need to add a little bit more white pigment, but that is perfect. Then from our set here, I'm going to add this one to the watercolor I have. In this step, there's three different bluey green colors that I'm going to be using for the water. Each one a little bit bluer or darker than the ones previous. This one is actually called the violet, But it's definitely got a blue-green tone to it. It probably color shifts to a violet color. But I've done these beach coasters in a color shift paint before and they looked absolutely beautiful. I'm excited to see how this looks. I'm not concerned with this being completely opaque because it's meant to be water. I want it to be translucent. I want to be able to see some of the sand color underneath there. So the only thing I'm concerned with is making sure that this is completely stirred up. I'm scraping all the sides and the bottom to make sure that I've got everything stirred up there. There we go. Let's get this out of the way. I'm going to put a glove on. I shouldn't have to touch this. The off chance that I do have to touch it to move something or whatever, you can't do it with. Just your hands, you have to have protection on. Let's start with the blue. First thing I'm gonna do is do a bee flying like where I want my water to end. Ish, it's going to be a little bit lower than that because we still have to add the water or the white and we still have to add the clear. Let's do this one here. As you can see, I tend to do both of the ones on each layer at the same time. Alright, here we go. I'm gonna take my stir stick, move it around, just flattened it out. Just making sure that it's covered. If it flows down the sides, that is perfect. Going to start flowing on the sides when I use my heat gun anyways, simply because the heat is going to make it thinner and more runny and it's just going to float on the sides. Last one. I'm going to use my heat gun quickly just to remove any bubbles from the blue. Definitely wanted to do this first before adding your career or your wife. Doesn't take very long. There we go. Now, I'm going to take my clear and I'm just going to add a thin line right at the edge of that blue. The bottom one. Now align of the white. Again, it's just gonna be a little thin line. Often the thinness depends on how thick your resident is. This particular resin for me, it depends on how warm or cool my house is. I'm going to quickly adjust, take out the bubbles just from that clear and that way. Now I'm gonna put narrower tip on my heat gun and I'm going to hold my heat gun as horizontal as possible to the coasters and I'm going to blow that weighed out. On a high-speed. You need to go back and do it again as much as you need to till it's completely blown out as much as you want. So typically when I do beach pieces, I'll add sand dollars and starfish and that sort of thing for coasters. It doesn't really work though because a, the texture of those things would make the coaster not smooth on the top. And then the other thing is I don't have anything that's the right scale for something this small. I'm just going to leave it at, it's going to look pretty just as it is. But I love how the color of that water and I loved seeing this poke through some of them. So I'll see you tomorrow and we'll do our next wave in the next color. 6. Third Resin Layer, Second Wave: All right, Our first wave is completely cured and we're ready for the next week. Now, I wait 24 hours between each wave and the reason being is I choose a certain time in the morning and my house where there's less movement, Hobbes off at work. I know it's the time when I have the least amount of interruptions while filming. When I go to do the next layer, it's completely cured. You don't have to wait that long. If you don't want to. Eight to 12 hours would probably work for the next layer. And here's how you test it. It's not going to work for this one because it is completely cure. Take a Q-tip or Q-Tip toothpick or something and touch part of the wave that's going to be covered with the next wave. If when you lift it up, there's a string coming up with it and some of the resin comes up with it, and it's sticky. It's not ready for the next wave yet. If you touch it and you just leave a little bit of an indent but nothing comes up on the toothpick or whatever you're using to test, then you're safe to do the next wave. Just so you know, you don't have to wait as long as I do. You can do it a little bit earlier. I've got my clear resin mixed here, ready to go. Once again. I've got two containers here. One is going to be just for clear. Then one is going to be for my white mixture. Now in the how much resin video or how much Resin while I need video, I showed you how to calculate it. That is to cover the entire thing now because we're doing waves that are shorter and shorter each time I do less and less resin. So the first time I did about two ounces. Now because we're only covering about half the coaster, I'm doing an ounce. And once again, I still have most of the side so that any extras I have in my cups, I just pour them in those moles. I'm going to use another color that's a little bit darker than the last one is called cyan. Now you'll notice my top two here, the blue is darker than here. That's because remember how I mentioned that I didn't have it level. So this was thicker and I leveled it out. That resin is a little bit thicker than this resin, which makes the blue look a little bit darker. But because we're pouring waves on the couple more layers of waves, you're not going to notice that. I don't mind that some are darker than others. I think it's pretty. But some people might not like the fact that they're not all exactly the same. There we go. Is that a gorgeous color? There we go. Now let's mix the white. Only need a couple of drops in there. I'm mixing with some wooden skewers and it's only because I have I was cleaning up and I found them and I didn't even know what I bought them for. And I just decided to try use them up. When I'm done with them, I lay them on my surface and then I'll trim some of the excess off and I'll just keep using them until the buildup gets too much. I also use regularly silicone stir sticks and those are great because you can pick the resin, often reuse them. But you could even use like a popsicle stick or something if you wanted. All right. So I've got my gloved hand on a globe on my hand. Let's do the next wave. I'm putting it about an inch or so back from the first one. I tried to make the wave shapes different for each layer. Just to make it a little bit more interesting, I don't want them all exactly the same. Then if you don't necessarily like the shape that you poured, when you flatten it out. You can change that a little bit. Most of it just spreads on its own and platens on its own, it just normally happens. But for this one here to me, this is a little bit too flat here, so I'm just going to push it out a little bit. All we're doing, it doesn't need to be completely flat. We're just making sure that the surface is completely covered. Once we go in with a heat gun to pop the bowls, everything else is going to flatten out. So we're just making sure everything's covered. So moved some of the bubbles. Love that glucose. We go now a thin line of our clear rate alongside that blue, our line of weight. Now these caps are really, really bendable, so I typically try to squeeze them so the tip is a little bit narrower, trying to control how much white comes out. Some days it works better than others. And I see I got a drip of white from the top of the cup. If that happens, you can clean it off with some isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip. You need to do it while it's still liquid though it won't be able to be cleaned off once it's cured. I did it a couple of times here. I'm going to do it after I blew out my waves. So low speed just to remove the bubbles. Now let's blow up the waves. Now first of all, this wave here, I don't necessarily love what happened there. So I'm just going to use my stuff just to make it a shape I like better. Then I've got my isopropyl alcohol and I've got a Q tip. I'm gonna do is clean that up. Anytime I go back, I use a new site of my Q-tip because I don't want to be spreading the white out. Grab another one to paint the rest of that one up. So it cleans up super quick and easy. But you have to catch it while it's still wet. Before it's cured. The odd time sometimes that isopropyl alcohol will leave a little bit of a mark on the top of the resin. This, these clusters are getting a flood coat on. We're completely done. So that's going to be completely covered by that. There we go. I'm gonna let those cure. I'll see you tomorrow. We'll do the last wave. 7. Fourth Resin Layer, Third Wave: All right, So now we're ready to do our third layer of resident. I've got my clear stuff already mixed up. Going to pour some into the container for the white. Then some into the container for the clear. Then we'll mix up the blue. So the last blue I have is called, well, this is going to be the darkest of the blues. One thing I wanted to mention while I'm mixing this up is at the end of the last video, I cleaned up that white those white spots. And the reason I cleaned them up is because they were visible. Now, what you probably don't know because you probably can't see is there's actually a clear one right here. It's a little street from when I was doing my second wave. Because these coasters are going to have a flood coat at the end covering the entire thing. I just left it because it's not going to be visible at all and you probably didn't even see it on camera. I wonder if this whole thing is glued to my table or my shower curtain that I have covering my table right now. So I'm not going to be able to lift it up, but it's not visible to the camera, but it would be visible and I wouldn't want to leave it like that if I wasn't adding a flood coat to it. If by chance you get a cover or a drop or something of clear knowing that we're gonna do a flood code at the end. I didn't bother cleaning it up. You don't have to clean up. If it really bothers you, you can. But it's going to be completely, you're never gonna know it's there once we are done. But anything that's gonna be visible absolutely. That we clean it up as soon as I saw it. Appears that color mixed up right there. Such a pretty color. I love these micro powders are so pretty. Let's add a couple of drops of white for our white mixture. Not a whole lot of weight here, but I'm not going to need a whole lot of weight. Probably should have put more in that container just to make it easier to pour out of there. But rather than mixing up a whole new batch, it's too late now. Alright, so last layer. Once again, I'm gonna put it about an inch back from last one we did. Again, I give my wave at different profile from the one before. Personally, I just think that looks better. Then use your stir stick to make sure it is on all spread around that one is, at first, one is already done, it's done its job on its own. Here we go. Let's get bubbled out of there. Now our line of clear, once again, I'm pinching my cup so that it's a little bit narrower of a stream. I'm starting a little bit off of the coaster that I know I haven't missed anything, then our layer of white or line of weight, same as the clear one I'm pinching the cup. Go quickly, take bubbles out with in low ski or setting. Then put the tip on to direct the heat a bit more. Blow those eight. Alright, so now we wait for that to cure. I'll see you tomorrow. 8. Final Resin Layer, the Fload Coat: All right, The Coasters are completely cured. We're ready to add our flood coat. I have got it mixed right here. Is just exactly the same reason we're using I'm just making a completely clear coat. We're putting it over top of everything. What that's gonna do is just going to flatten everything else. So we've got a smooth surface to be used as a coaster. Trying to put even amounts on each one of them. Recall. Spread it all the way at the edges. And I spread it a little bit down the size to make sure that it's going down all of the sides evenly. It's really easy to feel if it's going down the sides because your finger run around it smoothly, you'll feel a little bit of traction if it's not if the resin isn't going down that side. All right. Now take the gloves off and we're going to use the heat gun on a low setting and remove all the bubbles. The bubbles will continue to rise for the first hour. So I'll go back every ten minutes or so. Do this exact same thing. If there's no bubbles of Mr. Chris, I don't need to do this. But if there is make sure that there are popped, otherwise it's going to affect the fittest. Look. And then because this is the last layer and I don't want to be putting any, I'm not gonna be putting anything else on. I'm taking it clear container and I'm just going to protect it from the particles in the air. Still have to check it because sometimes something might've gotten gotten caught underneath there. There might still be things that come into the resident affects the surface. But by doing this, it helps to protect it a little bit better than just being an open-air. And because the container is clear, I can look to the side and see the reflection of the light just to kind of check it a little bit before actually taking it off. So it's a great idea, especially on the last layer is if you're doing something that you're doing, that you're gonna see all of the layers you want to do this for all of them. For this particular project, I only needed to do it for the last one because any of the previous layers are gonna be completely covered by this one. So we're going to let this dry completely for 24 hours, cure completely for 24 hours, sorry. And then I'll see you tomorrow and we will remove the resin drips. But if we accumulated on the back. 9. Removing the Resin Drips & Adding the Cork Backing: All right, Our coasters are fully cured and now it's time to take drips that have dripped off of them while creating them off. Pull them off your container that they've been sitting on. See how you have to actually pry it up a little bit. That's why I like using the silicone, the liquid latex on these because it helps to stick them to the container that you're propping them on so that they don't shift and move. The other reason I like that is because we have some cork that comes with these costs ears that we're gonna put on the back of here once we've gotten the drips off. And if we were to use the finishing wax like I typically like to use on my art that's going to resist the glue that we're using on. We're going to use to glue the cork on. And obviously we don't want to resist glue. So what I'm doing right now is I'm just rolling the liquid latex back a little bit. And then I'm going to use my heat gun to just heat this area up a little bit and it's going to help me remove those drifts a little bit easier. There we go. Now, even though our resonance cured, I want to work on a soft surface because I don't want to scratch the surface. You can stop me as plastic. You can still scratch the surface and I don't want to do that. I'm gonna take my heat gun. I'm going to put the narrower tip on it and I'm going to hit that resonance. That's hot enough. It just picks right off that silicone, just resist it and you can send me starts. I keep calling it silicone, I mean, liquidly types. Now you could see that it's still on here, but it's easy to just pop it off. It does peel back. I only work a little section at a time because if I were to heat the entire thing, first of all, it's gonna take a lot longer to heat it. Secondly, while I'm working at it, by the time I get up to here, these are starting to cool down. I'm gonna have to repeat them anyway. So I work a couple of inches at a time. Pick those little bits off. Then there is tiny little bits there. But as we're removing this liquid latex, those peel rate off as well. Now because of the coasters or an unfinished wood, it's taking off the liquid latex. It does make the width a little bit rough. But because we're putting cork on it a, it doesn't matter be that roughness is going to give the glue that we're just taking the cork on, extra traction, extra surface to stick to. It really doesn't take much pressure to be pulling these off at all. I think that takes the most pressure really is rolling this up, which not a big deal. Last little bit. That got a bit warm. There we go. We've got it all taken off and it looks perfect around the edges here. The next step is to take them off of all the other ones we want all four without the drips. And then I'm going to show you, I'm gonna let it cook this one, especially this one cool off a little bit, it's gotten a little bit warm. So while I do the other ones that is going to they're all going to get who loved. And then I'll show you how to glue the cork onto the mat or drips are completely off and we're ready to glue our core gone to the back-end. Now that does come with adhesive on it, but I never know how strongest adhesive is, so I tend not to trust it to be super-strong. I've got some E6 thousand glue Here. It is perfect for this and it sticks really, really well. And it's nice and permanent. You can even use this to create or glue jewelry and stuff like that. It can go in all sorts of different surfaces. I'm going to these corks are exactly the same diameter as the coaster round. Which is perfect. I'm going to glue this on all four and then I sit them up to dry because once again, I don't I don't want to have them sitting down on anything because I don't want to accidentally scratched the surface. Because while it is cured to the touch, it takes seven days for this particular reason that I'm using to completely hardened. And even at that, again, it is still a plastic. You can scratch the surface. Want to reduce that possibility as much as possible. You can see I'm only putting the glue around the outside edges. That's all we need. We don't need it around the center. As long as the outside is completely stuck, the center is good. The other reason why I like to put it down this way as well, especially after I've written right after I've put that backing on, is I like to make sure that I don't have any of that visible from the front. I'm squeezing this tube quite hard simply because I've had it for awhile so the glue is thick and a little bit. If you have a fresh tube, you likely won't have to do that. If by chance you've gotten any little pieces from the resin when you were taking it off on the front? Just pick them right off. They don't actually stick to it but I mean, they stick to it because they like to stick to it, but they'll come right off. Alright, there we go. We're going to let that completely dry. I don't actually know how long. I've just usually left them out for a day, 24 hours for hearing. There we go. We'll see you in the next video. I'll show you the super quick way that I like to clean my resin cups. 10. Cleaning your Resin Tools: Alright, so now you've created these beautiful resin pieces and now you've got all these cups with derived resident. Now. Now you could take them and you could pick off each individual drip and drop of resin. But there's actually an easier way. So this is one of the reasons why I love using these super soft silicone cups when I can't. Obviously there are only a certain size, so I can't use them for huge projects. But I always pull them off where small projects because they're so simple to clean, pull that disk out of the bottom or if they've broken up into small pieces. I pulled the bigger piece out and then I take duct tape. I cut six inches. Then I roll it around my fingers with the sticky side out. I'm going to go like this. The duct tape is sticky enough that it sticks to pretty much every drip there is sometime I have to go in with a second piece. But because of the softness of the camp as well as the stickiness of the duct tape. Typically one time and I'm done for all of my cups. And I took out the big pieces, a couple big chunk at the bottom. So the ones on the outside typically while you're using your duct tape on the inside, typically the ones on the outside will fall off. If not, you can just take the other side of duct tape that you weren't touching with and you can use that. There we go. One more drip there. Here we go another clean cut. You can use them for other modes as well. This is the crystal mold. It's what I've been using with the extra drips. So I've got some sticky left on this stuff tape. I can just use that. Pick up any of the little drips on the top. Clean this mold off like that or whatever mode you're using. It works for a lot of different things. Now, for this whole class, I've been using these wooden skewers to stir. And I like to use them several times, get as much use of edit them as possible. So I'll take my scissors and I'll just trim some of that excess like these bits and stuff like that. I don't need to trim all of this as long as I've got some straight edges so I can really, when I'm storing my resume, really get in there and scrape besides in the bottom. I'm good to go. I'll do that until it gets too much on there and then I'll just toss it. But at least then by then I've gotten some good use out of it. And also I'm putting all my garbage right here, but typically I'll do this right Bye the garbage cans. So all of this stuff goes right in there. Sometimes you'll get a nice chocolate that, and it'll pull some of the pieces all up the sides. Which is always nice, but I love how by using duct tape, it makes it super simple. And super quick. I've done this with packing tape as well and it works, but the packing tape isn't quite as sticky as the duct tape. So I just find the duct tape works a little bit better. And you can see I'm doing this and that so that I get the sticky on both sides. Pulling things out. Drip on the slide that can pull it off. This one, I'm gonna need a second piece. By doing it this way. I find my cup cleanup happens so much quicker. I definitely clean them off before putting them away so that when I want to do a project I've got clean cups to work with. There's nothing worse than I need to be creative and having to clean up first. So there we go. All right, I'll continue to do this, but now you know how to easily and simply clean your cups. You're welcome. I tried for a long time to figure out how to do it nice and simply and quickly, cleanly Lee's easily. This is the by far the best one that I've come up with are found. 11. Beach Resin Coasters Class Thank You: Thank you so much for joining me for the beach resident coasters class. I hope you had fun learning how to create these beautiful little pieces of each that you can use this functional art in your home. Hope to see you back in class soon.