Transcripts
1. DAY1- L1- Introduction and class project: Hello. My name is Natasha, and this is my mindful
crochet course. This is a five day mindful crochet
absolute bigner course, in which you'll not just learn the basic
techniques of crochet, but you'll also
learn how to apply these to become more mindful
in your day to day life. In today's stressful times, it is important that you
take time for yourself to indulge in some activities
that give you both peace, mindfulness, as well
as that help you reduce your day to
day life stress. This course is designed
exactly to do that. As I mentioned before, you are not just going to learn crochet. You'll also learn
mindfulness techniques. Let me walk you
through what you're going to learn in
these five days. The entire course is divided
into five different modules, and the modules are
again subdivided into bite size video
lessons. Okay. You're going to go through
the course one day at a time and you can take as
much time as you require. It does not need that you have to finish the
course in five days. If you need more
time to practice, then you can take
two or three days for practicing the same strip. It depends on you.
That is one of the benefits of taking
a prerecorded course. You can posit, play, rewind it, replay it as many times as you want at the comfort
of your home. But this course is not just
about learning crochet. As I mentioned before, you'll also be learning mindfulness. Let me just work you through what all is the
content of the course. So first, let me tell you what is there regarding crochet. So for crocheting, you're
going to learn the basics, you're going to have a in depth knowledge of crochet
hooks and yarns, what all types of books
and yarns are available and how to select the
best suited for you. Other than that,
you're going to learn the basic techniques of holding the crochet hook,
holding the yarn. Then we will move to
the basic stitches, which are chain stitch, single crotches, double crochet, half double crotches stitch. Then you'll learn triple
crochet stitch and slip stitch. Okay. Plus, I'll also give you one special stage
that is called PICO. Other than that, we're
going to cover two projects because in crochet there are two different
techniques of working, one is working in rows, and the second one is
working in rounds. So we're going to do
two different projects. One will deal with
working in rows and the other one will deal
with working in rounds. These are the two projects
that will be included, but the journey
does not end here. You're going to get a lot of prebes when you are going
to register for the course. The main two things that
you'll get are two e books. One is hooked from the start, which is a book
that I've written. It is in depth detail
of crochet hooks. Everything that you need to know about crochet hooks,
you'll find it there. Then the second book
is the thread Tox. In thread tox I have
written details about threads and yarns that can
be used for crocheting. That is an in depth knowledge
again of the materials, the thickness, the yarn weights, the substitutions, how to use, how to select and
everything that you need to know as a beigner will
be there in that book. These are the first two freebies that you're
going to get. Other than this,
you are also going to get an e book in which you'll get around seven patterns
that are bigner friendly. There will be step
by step pictures in all the patterns that will make it easy for you to follow. If you're thinking that how
will you read a pattern? Don't parry, I've
got you covered. That part also, we're going to cover in the video lessons. I'll show you step by step how
to read a crochet pattern. I'll give you a basic
introduction of all the different
abbreviations that are used and all the different steps that are in general included
in any crochet pattern. This is not all.
You'll explore so much more when you'll go
through the core step by step. We'll also be covering the
basics of color theory and mindful selection of colors for your
crochet projects. With this, you'll also learn how colors affect our
moods and emotions. Walk with me in this
enchanting crochet journey. Together, let us transform
strings to pretty things.
2. L2- Crochet and mindfulness: Hello, and welcome to my
mindful crochet course. I'm delighted to
have you here on this journey to creativity
and mindfulness. My name is Natasha, and I'll be your guide
throughout this crochet course. Now, before we dive
into the course, let us take a moment to
understand what crochet is. Crochet is a beautiful craft
that involves creating fabric from yarn and tread
using a crochet book. It is a versatile art
form that allows you to create anything from jewelry to dresses to home accessory. But this course isn't about
just learning a new skill. It is about so much more. It's about finding peace, relaxation, and mindfulness in the rhythmic motions of crochet. Throughout this
journey, we are not just going to learn
the basics of crochet, but we also explore how crochet can be a powerful
tool to attain mindfulness. Crochet is not just about
creating beautiful things. It is about being
present in the moment, feeling the texture of
yarn between your fingers, focusing on the rhythm
of the crochet stitches. It is a form of meditation. It is a way to calm your mind and to connect
with the present moment. As a part of this course, I'll introduce you to the
concept of gratitude journal. Each day, I encourage
you to take a few moments to reflect on the things that
you are grateful for. These can be things as
simple as feeling the warmth of the sun on your face or a good time spent
with a loved one. By cultivating the
attitude of gratitude, we can shift our focus from what's lacking to
what's abundant in ane. Along with gratitude journaling, we are also going to include affirmations in our
daily practice. Affirmations are positive
statements that help us revire our mindset and
cultivate self belief. By repeating positive statements like I'm creative. I'm capable. I'm worthy of love
and happiness, we can train our mind to focus on our strengths
and potentials. Are you ready to embark on this journey of creativity
and mindfulness? Together, we learn
the art of crochet, cultivate gratitude, and embrace the power of
positive affirmations? I can't wait to see what
beautiful creations we bring to life both on our hooks and within ourselves.
So let's begin.
3. L3- Basic tools and materials: Okay. In this lesson, I'll discuss the different
tools and materials that you'll need to get you started
on your crochet journey. These are the things that
you'll need just to get started because once you are on
your crocheting journey, once you start crocheting, there are a number of
different tools that you can use For now, we'll just look at the basics. These are the must have
once you get started. The first thing is
obviously the rose hook. Selecting a hook needs certain things that
you need to consider. We'll be discussing
roche hooks in detail in the next lesson
because there are a lot of number of diff
different materials and sizes of kosher hooks
that are available out there. The basic principle
is you'll need the type of hook that is required for the projects
that you are doing. Whatever project you
select, accordingly, you'll choose the
size of the hook and the other details that define what type of hook
you should be using, which will be more
suitable for you. But that we'll be discussing crochet hook separately in
details in the next lesson. The first material would be
a crochet The next thing is yarns again are
available in a number of different types,
variety materials. That also we discussed
separately in a separate lesson. For now, we just
need a yarn that is suitable for the project
that you have selected. For this particular course, we'll be using size two or size three yarn because these are
the most easily available, and these are very
easy to work with. There are certain things that you need to consider certain does and des when you're selecting yarn for
the first project, that again will be discussed in that lesson that are dedicated
separately just two yarns. The second thing that you'll need for starting
approach journey is the. Other than that, you'll need sharper of scissors for
cutting the thread. You can also use
a thread clipper, whichever is more
comfortable to you. More or less, you'll need
a tool that will help you to cut off or snip off the thread once you are
done with the project. Then the last thing is
the tapestry needles. Tapestry needles are
blunt point needles, here are two different types. This is a normal steel needle that can also be
used for embroidery. This one is the one that is
used for embroidery as well. These are blunt point. The basic rule for selecting the test needle is that
the eye of the needle should be big enough
so that the yard that you're using should
pass through it equally. Here are two different sizes. You can see the difference
in the size of the eye, and this is a super jumbo needle that can be used for
very thick yarn. You can see here at the back
there is a plastic loop, so a very thick yarn can
easily pass through it. This one can be used
for bigger yarns. This is the basic tools
that you'll need. If you want to read more about the other tools that you
might use or you can use, then I'll provide a link to two of my block post where
I have discussed 22 different side tools that can be used to make your
pushing journey more fun. You can click on the link and read on those tools
deep in detail. I won't be discussing
it here in this lesson. Otherwise, it will
become very lendy. So you can read about
those, and for now, just consider Kosher hook, yarn, scissors, and
pastry needles. This is all that
you'll need to get you started on
your chin journey. Now in the next lesson, we'll see the different
types of hooks, how to select them, and more detail about
the Kosher hook. That is the first tool,
the most essential thing that you'll need for your chin. I'll see you in the next lesson.
4. L4- Introduction to crochet hooks: So as discussed before
in this lesson, I'll show you the
different types of roche hooks that
are available. So this topic in itself is a very vast topic and I'll
require a complete course to discuss each and everything
that I have learned about roche hooks in my more than
27 years of roche journey. For the sake of this
particular course, I'll just touch everything
so that you know the basics of selecting a crocheHok because when you go to buy
a crochet hook, you'll find a large variety
of books available out there. It can be slightly
overwhelming selecting which one would be
more suitable for you. It is a good idea to have the basic knowledge of
the materials, the sizes, and the different types
of books so that you can select the hook as
per your preference. Here are some of the
hooks that I have. I'll just keep on discussing
each of these one by one. The first thing that
you have to that you'll see in crochet hook is the material out of
which they are made. So the first material
is this one. This is a colored aluminum hook. This one again is
an aluminum hook. These are the metal hooks. Then you'll find bamboo hooks. This one is made out of bamboo. Then there are some hooks
that are made out of plastic. These are hard plastic hooks. Then there are hooks that are combination of two materials
like this here is aluminum, and the handle here
is soft silicon. For this one, the hook
is steel and the handle is smooth plastic that is
very comfortable to hold. This one again is a steel hook that has a soft silicon handle. Then this one is wooden hook. This is a rosewood. These two are also wooden hooks. These are premium
handmade hooks. This one is made
of hybrid woods, like it has beachwood
and rosewood and I don't know if one
other wood is also there. This one is made
out of beachwood. These are premium
handmade hooks. You don't need to go to
these hooks as for now. So when you are starting,
a normal aluminum or a plastic hook
would be sufficient. I'll tell you why
because first thing, these wooden hooks are extremely expensive and when you
are starting to learn, then it is Um, you won't be crocheting with a very smooth tension
because when you start, you might need to give a
tight pull to your hook. Sometimes when you're working, you might have a
very tight tension because you're not used to holding a crochet hook and using a hook at that
particular point of time. So when you are beginning, don't go for the expensive hooks. Go for the simple
economical hooks like the aluminum ones. For aluminum and plastic, the plastic hooks are
cheaper and more economical, but I would not recommend
using them because plastic ones could break
easily and obviously, if you'll keep on breaking
hooks and buying new ones, they'll come equal to the
cost of any aluminum hook. The best option is to
use aluminum hooks. Okay. Or any other metal hook, you can also use steel hooks, whichever is easily
available to you. These are the
different materials. These are just the
materials that I have, other than these, also, there are different
materials like there are some hooks that are
made out of raisin, and then there are
hooks that are made out of bones or
horns of animals. I don't have those, but those hooks are also
available in the market. So once you are used to crochet, then you can go
ahead and experiment and explore with the
different types of hooks. When you're starting,
just pay attention that you need a hook
that is economical and hook that is sturdy so that it won't break off
easily when you're learning. So this was the first aspect
that was the material. Now the second aspect
that you have to know. The second thing that
you need to know about the closer
hooks is the size. So here. So this is one complete set
of hooks that I have. So here you can see
the different sizes. So this one here starts
with a two MM hook. This one is two MM. The largest one in this set is this one. This is a 12 m. You can
see the difference. Mm is millimeters. The only difference in these hooks is the
thickness of the hook. As you can see here, the head of the hook is 12 MM, and here the head of
this hook is two MM. These are the different
sizes of the hooks, when you're talking
about roche hooks, you'll get a hook as
small as 0.35 MM, that is a steel hook that
is extremely fine and you can get hooks that are
larger than 25 MM. So when you're selecting
hooks as a beginner, don't go for very big hooks because they will be
difficult to grip when you are learning because they need very huge motion just to grab the yarn and pull
it through the loops. Don't go for the very big hooks and also don't go for the
very fine hooks because it is difficult to
see the stitches when you're working
with very fine hooks. So for a bigner I
would recommend a hook starting from three
MM going till six MM. Don't go above six MM. I'll show you what a
six MM hook looks like. So this is six MM, it is a 6.5. This is a six MM. And this is this is a three MM. So you can use any hook that
is between these two sizes. And again, this is not a rule, but this is just for your ease because
you're starting out. So it is better option to start with the most
suitable tools so that your learning
journey is quick and efficient and so
that you don't get frustrated when you are
learning to crochet. So this is the general principle that when
you are starting out this hook size just go
from three MM to six MM. Don't don't go above this. Don't use a hook that
is bigger in size. And also don't go below this. Don't use a hook that
is smaller in size. Now, the size of
the hook matters very much because the size of the hook will be determining the type of yarn that
you'll use or vice versa, the type of yarn will determine the type of hook
that you'll be using. For thinner ons, you're going to use smaller or finer hooks. For thicker iron,
you're going to use bigger or bulkier hooks. There is a rule for these. No still you can't
say that it is a very hard and fast rule
or you have to stick to it, but still there are
certain guidelines that for some particular yards
use some particular hooks. Otherwise, the
stitches can become too tight or the stitches
can become too loose. If you're going for a
very tight knit pattern or if you're going for
a very loose pattern, then you can definitely
experiment with different sizes. But if you want to go with
a normal crochet fabric, then it is advisable to use the recommended hook size
with the recommended yarn. We'll be discussing yarns
in the next lesson, and then I'll show
you which type of yarn goes well with
which type of hooks, and I'll also provide you with the proper cheat sheet that will give you the hook
and yarn pairing, which yarn which type of hook. So for now, just understand
that the size of the hook will determine the type of
yarn that you'll be using. So this is the second aspect that you have to know
about grocer hooks, that is the size of the hook. The third thing that
you need to know is the ergonomic hooks
and the simple hooks. So as I discussed before, these hooks that have
a broader handle. These are called
ergonomic hooks. These are ergonomic books. Again, in ergonomic books, you'll find many
different types of books, and these ones are the normal hooks because
these have narrow handles. Now, the only benefit of ergonomic books is that
the handles are broad, they are soft to touch and
they are very easy to hold. If you're crocheting
for very long hours, then these books are more
comfortable on your hand. Again, I would not recommend
going for ergonomic books. When you are
learning to crochet, you can go for these hooks
when you have practiced crochet and when you
know that you'll be doing crochet
for longer hours, then you can spend money and invest more in
your crochet hooks. So since I've been crocheting for a long time and I crochet for around six to 7 hours
on an average every day. That is why I prefer to
use ergonomic hooks. I have a range of
ergonomic hooks available, and I do have my preferences that I'll discuss
with you later. So for now, understand this
that ergonomic hooks are the ones that are easy to
hold more comfortable. And obviously, if you're learning and you still
have some kind of joint problems if you are a pain or you have some
joint pain in your hands, then I would recommend
to start with the ergonomic only
because this will be more comfortable for you and you'll enjoy your
croche journey more. If you have some joint
problems, bone problems, pain in your hands, then start directly with
ergonomic hooks, otherwise. The normal metal hooks would
be sufficient for you. This is all that I wanted to discuss to you
about Kroch hooks. This is just the basic. You have not even
touched the surface of the different types of
hooks that are available. If you want to dive deep and if you want to learn more
about the roche hooks, I have provided a
link to my book. I've written a book hooked from the start that has each
and everything that I just discussed in
more detail and you'll know everything that you need to know about
the Kosher hooks. There is one more
aspect that you need to know about
the Kosher hooks. That is there are
different types of hooks based on the technique. So that also is discussed there. The book has many pictures, so it will be very
easy for you to understand and differentiate between different
types of books, and that book will also be a very helpful
guide for you when you're selecting your
first Croc book. This is all for this lesson. Download the book,
go through it, flip through it and see if it helps you in the next lesson, we'll see the
different types of am.
5. L5- Introduction to yarns: In this lesson, let
us talk about yarns. So the first most essential tool that you'll need for crocheting to start your Kosher journey is the Kosher hook that we had discussed in our
previous lesson. In this lesson, we'll discuss
a little about yarns. There is, again, as I mentioned
for the Kosher hooks. If I want to discuss
about yarns, then I'll need a
complete course, a complete five day course
to discuss each and everything that I
have learned in my crocheting
experience about yarns. So for a bigner that
much is not required, so we'll just touch
the basic aspects of yarn that you need to know. When you are
starting to crochet, how you select the how you select the yarn
for your OS projects, which would be more suitable for you as you go along in
your Kosher journey, you'll develop references, so that is for a later
point of time. Colors of the yarn will not
discuss now because for that, I have a dedicated chapter
where we've been learning mindful color selection
for your ocher projects. N colors will be
included in that. So that we'll not discuss. Right now, we will just see
the different types of yarns based on the size and based on the materials
and the textures. So as you can see here, I have some yarn samples
from my collection. So first thing that you
will notice about the yarn whenever you purchase it is the material out of which
the yarn is made up. So the material here, like this yarn here,
this is acrylic. This is made with acrylic yarn, this is nine made material. Same thing is with this one
also, this is also acrylic. This yarn is nylon. So is this one. This is some
nylon and polester blend. This one here is 100% cotton. This is 100% pool.
This is pure pool. This yarn is a very coarse yarn, and this is ham or jute.
This is the jute yarn. Jute is very, very
rough, so beginning, I would not recommend
to use this at all. I'll just keep it aside. I just brought it here
so that I can show you how ututen looks like. Now, among these,
how will you know which type of yarn is made out of which material,
so it is very easy. Whenever you purchase the yarn, the material of the
yarn will always be labeled put
here on the label. Like here, this is
100% acrylic yarn. For this one, it is 100% cotton. Same way, this one, pure. This is pure cold. So like this, for
these ones I've used, so I've removed the labels. When you'll purchase the yarn, you'll always get a label on the yarn and the
label will mention what material of what material
the yarn is composed of. The first thing that you
have to keep in mind when purchasing yarn is the material out of
which it is made. If you are going for a home
decor or something like that, then I would recommend to
use cotton thread because cotton is more suitable for home decor because it can tolerate a lot of
wear and tear because home decors is
usually washed a lot. If you're going for winter wear, then obviously go for wool. And if you don't want to spend that much amount
to buy pure wool, you can go for wool blends, which is a mixture of
wool and acrylics. Or you can go for simple
acrylic an They will not be as warm as
the pure wools, but still they'll do the job. So the selection of yarn will usually depend upon the
project that you are doing, and if you're following a
pattern or a video class, then the pattern will
mention what type of yarn which material of yarn and the size of yn that you're
supposed to use. So don't put your mind
too much in that. This is just to
understand that this is what is available out there
when you talk about yarns. Now, this is about the material. So you'll get yarns in pool, you'll get mohay, cotton, jute, you'll also get
linen, you can get boambans then there
are acrylics. I acrylics, also, you have a large variety of different
types of acrylics. Then you have nylons,
you have polyesters. So there are that is a huge ocean of different types of yarns that
are available out there. Don't go into that right now. Just understand that the
material of the yarn matters. And once you start with
your croche journey, you will be able to select the yarn based on your
personal preferences or if you're falling patterns
or you're falling created. Tutorial suppose if
you are following, then the tutorial or the
pattern will always mention the material and
the thickness of the yarn that you're
supposed to use. Now, if you are from
different countries, then in different countries, the yarn is labeled differently. Like in India, we usually do not mention
the weight of the weight. Is not the weight in grams. When I talk about weight, it is the thickness of the yarn. So there is a simple
universal nomenclature for understanding threads
because you'll be following a lot of patterns when you'll be going
on your Kosher journey. So in order to understand
the weight of the yarn, there are different weights, it starts from size
zero, they are numbered. There is size zero, which is called the
lace weight on. Then we have size one yarn that is called
the fingering yarn. Then we have the size two. This is size two yarn, which is called the spoon. This is the spores weight on. Then we have size three
that is called decate. This is size three.
This is called devate. This is also size three. This is the tcvate. Then we have size four
that is worsted weight, that will be slightly
thinner than this one. Then we have chunky
or bulky yarn. This is this is size five. Then you have super junky, that is size six, and then
there is this is the jumbo on. And see the thickness,
this is the jumboon. Now, what happens is
like, for this one, I don't have the
label, so I don't know what thickness of
the yarn this is. So there is a very simple way to measure the thickness
or the yarn weight, as I mentioned
before, yarn weight. To do that you can do a simple
method that is called WPI, which is wraps per inch. For that, what you do is Just take a simple ruler
that you might have at home, and these are the inch markings. What we have to do is we'll just wrap the yarn around
this ruler and we'll see how many wraps come
in 1 " of this ruler. Just take the yarn and
start wrapping it. Make sure that you don't wrap
it too tight or too lose. I'll just push, keep wrapping and just cover the
entire 1 " mark like this. Now count. This is one, two, three, four, five, six, seven nine, and 12, 13, 14 and 15. So this has 15 wraps. So a yarn that wraps 15 times, uh, 12-18 times in ruler. That is 12 to 18 WPI of a yarn that yarn is called size
two or sportswight yarn. So don't worry about these
normenctures, because, uh, you won't be able
to remember them. So what I've done
is I have written a book on the that is
called thread Talks, which has each and
every detail that you might need to know about yarns, as well
as about threads. Depending on the same things
that we just discussed, like the size and the thickness, the materials, everything I've mentioned that in
detail in depth, There are pictures
also there and this WPI that I
just talked about, this also is
explained in detail, as well as we'll find
a chart of the WPs and how many WPI means which type of yarn that
particular yarn is. So I'll just discuss
it once here. The size two is supposed
to be 12 to 18 WPS. Size three is supposed
to be 11 to 15 WP. When you are talking
about jumbo on, then any yarn that wraps one time of four
times in one inches. That is a jumbo yarn. Let us check this one on. This is one. Three. Only
three will make 1 ". So this is a jumbo weight yarn. So this is how you can
identify the weight of yarn. If you are in a country where the yarn does not come with the particular yarn
label like this one, it does not have the yarn
weight anywhere on this. This per one here also does not have the yarn weight anywhere on the label, as you can see. It does mention the hook
that I'm supposed to use, how to take care of the yarn, and the length, the count, the blend weight and all these
things are mentioned here, but it does not mention
the weight of the yarn. In order to check the weight
of these yarn because when you follow any
pattern or tutorial, there the yarn will always be mentioned in terms
of the yarn weight. It will be a size
two size three, quartz weight, fingering
weight like that. They'll mentioned. So
don't worry about it. You can always check the WPs of the yarn that you
have and then you can determine which weight
on weight you have. This one here, it has the
weight mentioned on it, so I don't need to do anything for this. This is a size three. Yeah. So this is it about
the weights, the WPI. Again, I'll be putting a link to the downloadable PDF for the book that I have
written, the thread Tox. You can download it
and you can know everything that you
need to know about ans. Now since I have spread
out all these yarns here, let me discuss one more last thing that
you need to consider. When you're selecting
yarn as a bigner. If you are bigger
level crucer don't go for very thick
ons like this one or this jumbo on because it
will be difficult for you to create stitches with
the thick thick ons. So when you are beginning, try to choose yarn from
size two till size four, don't go above size four. Size two, till size
four, that is, the decavt sports
vton and the state, don't go above or
below the tons. Again, other than this, when you are choosing the yarn, don't go for the very coarse ans like this jut tread that I just showed you ut on because
this has a lot of friction, it is very difficult
to form the stitches. So don't start off with this. Once you're familiar
with the stitches, you're familiar with what
you are doing with crochet, then you can move ahead and you can experiment with
different types. But for beginning, do
not go for the jutans. Also, this yn looks very pretty, very fluffy and you would
be tempted to work with it, but do not go for a fury yarn
when you are beginning to crochet because a fury
yarn has texture to it, and when you are
crocheting with it, you will not be able
to see the stitches and it will be
impossible for you to see where you're
supposed to insert the hook and where you're
supposed to do the stitches. These types of yarns avoid
using avoid using the furans, eyelash yarns, velvet
yarns, and such. So when you're
selecting the yarn, go for a smooth yarn
that should not be extremely slippery and it
should not be extremely rough. It should be nice and smooth
so that it is easy for you to pull it through the loops and it
should not slip off. Also try to choose
lighter colors because dark color yarns are difficult to work
with because again, they absorb all the light
and it is difficult to see the stitches to
visualize what you're doing. So again, I'll just give you three tips when you're
selecting the yarn as a bigger. The three things that you need
to consider is first one, choose the color
of the arn wisely, choose a lighter color. It's not necessary that
you have to keep on working with white
red white yarn only. Choose a lighter
color so that it is easier for you to
visualize the stitches. Secondly, do not
use a fury yarn or velvet yarn or yarn that
has too much texture on it. Otherwise we're not be
able to see the stitches. Go for a smooth plain yarn. Third one is choose a yarn
that is not very slippery, neither very slippery,
no very very rough. Choose a smoother
and flexible yarn. These are the three things
that you have to keep in mind when you're selecting
a yarn as a beginner. So this is all that I had today in my stock for
you regarding yarns. Again, just a gentle reminder, don't forget to download the e book that I
have provided for you talks that has detail about the yarns
and the threads. Don't go too much too
in depth in that. That will be a book that
will be your friend for your entire Crocher
journey because it has almost everything that I have learned in my rocing experience. So select then Wisly and
then now in the next lesson, I'll show you how to hold the rosier hook. So
we'll start with
6. L6- Learn the crochet hook holds: In this lesson, I'll
show you the hook holes. That is, we'll see how to actually hold the hook
when you are crocheting. Again, there is no set rule on how you're supposed to hold the hook when
you're crocheting. But there are two non hook
holes that you can use, then you can experiment with it edges according to
your comfort level, and then you can come up with your own unique style of holding the hook for good speed and good comfort when
you are crocheting. So before we begin with that, there are two basic non hook
holes that I have seen. The first one is
called the knife hole, and the second one is
called the pencil hold, and both the holes are
as their names suggest. So the first one is the
knife hole in which you hold the hook as you would hold a knife when
you're cutting. And for a pencil hold, you will hold the
hook the way you will hold a pencil
when you're writing. These are the two
different types of holds. So let us see how
to actually hold. So I'll just show it
with this normal, common most commonly used book. This is the thumb
grip this part. So just place your
thumb on this. The hook should be facing you. Then hold the hook with
your middle finger and the other three fingers will be other two fingers will be
wrapped around the hand. This the index finger
should be free. This will be used to monitor and manage the loop
that will be around. This finger has to be free, and we're holding the
hook with the thumb and the middle finger and
the other two fingers are wrapped around the handle. This is how you will hold
the hook for the knife hole. The hook will be facing you, and when you're
croching only moment that the only joint that
will move is your wrist. You'll just move
the hook like this. Okay. This is the only
moment that you have. You don't have to
move your entire arm, your elbow should be relaxed, your shoulders
should be relaxed. You just need to move your wrist joint when
you're crossing. The hook will be facing you, and I'll show you how to move the hook when you're
making the stitches. For now, just
concentrate on them, holding the hook and keeping the index finger tree for guiding the yarn
that will be there on. Same thing can be done with
this kind of hook also. There is no defined thumb grip. Just place the thumb at the
starting of the grip here. Again, hold it with your middle finger and the other two fingers will be
wrapped around the handle, and the index
finger will be free to hold the loop
that will be there. If you have a hook like this, these are ergonomic hooks as we discussed in
the previous lesson. Same hole will apply here also. Hook should be facing you, then just place the
thumb here where the thick part of the
crocier handle starts. Again, holding it with the middle finger and the other two fingers wrapped around the handle and the
index finger will be here for guiding
the loops on the hole. So this is it and
for the pencil hold, you'll hold the hook like
you would hold a pencil, but the placement
of the thumb and the index middle finger
will be the same. Place the thumb on
the thumb grip, the hook should be facing you. Then put the middle finger and the other two
fingers will be free. Hold it like this, like
you would hold a pencil, and then this finger
should be free. It will be for guiding
the dope on the hook. So I don't use this method
more anytime I don't use this, because the hook
handle is free on the top and I don't
like the way it moves. When I'm holding it
in the knife hold, then the hook is entirely by control because the entire
hook is in my palm. So I prefer this method. Again, as I mentioned
earlier, there is no rule. If you like the
pencil hold more, you can use the pencil hold for holding the
hook while croc. So you can hold it
like this also in between your middle finger and the thumb, and
then you can croc. These are the two
different types of hook holes that you can use. Now in the next lesson, I'll show you how to hold the yarn when you're crocheting and we'll start with the slip knot, that is the beginning of usually most of the crochet projects
that you'll be doing. We'll do the slip knot and I'll show you how
to hold the yarn. I'll see you in the next lesson.
7. L7- Learn to do the slip knot and yarn hold: In this lesson,
we'll see how to do a slip knot and how
to hold the yarn. So for the purpose
of today's tutorial, I'm using a size two yarn. We have already discussed the different sizes of the yarn. If you'll do wraps per
inch of this yarn, this will come around 14 wraps. You can use any other yarn
that is available to you. It is not necessary that
you have to use this, but don't go for a very
thin or very thick yarn. That also we have
discussed before. So just for now, just use any yarn that is a
size two till a size four. You can use size
two, three, or four. Don't go above or
below this range. I'm using three MM for
this demonstration. We'll start with a slip knot, then I'll show you how to
do how to hold the yarn. For doing a slip knot, fold the yarn in
shape like this. This is the ball of yarn, so this is the longer tail. Hold it on the palm of your hand like this. Then just twist it. Twist it one time so
that the smaller tail is going above the longer tail. This is the longer tail,
and this is the short tail. The shorter one is
above the longer one. Then hold this loop that has form and bring it over like
this on the longer tail of. Let's show that to you again. Hold the yarn in blue shape
like this over your palm. Take this small tail and
pass it over the long tail. Hold the loop that
has just been created and hold it like this
over the longer tail. Then grab this piece, the tail long tail that is going through
from under the loop, and just pull this
short tail tight. Now, if you'll pull
this long tail, the hoop will become small and you can add just
the size of the sloop. This is a slip knot. This is how you'll begin most
of your crocher projects. Now for the yarn hold, you already have the slip knot, insert the hook
under the slip knot and make it smaller so that
it fits the neck of the hook. It should not be very
tight or very loose. It should be easily
slipping on the hook. Hold the hook like we learned in the previous lesson like this. For the yarn with
the index finger, grab the loop so that the loop does not slip away from
slip off the hook. Now take this long
tail or thread. This is my dominant hand and this is my non
dominant hand. If you're left,
you'll be holding the hook in the left hand and
the yarn in the right hand. If you are right handed,
then you'll hold the hook in the right hand and the
yarn in the left hand. I'm holding the hook here in the right hand and
with the left hand, wrap the yarn around your
pinky finger once like this. Go from the top over
and under like this, then take it over
your index finger, then with the middle finger
and the thumb, hold the knot. This is how you will
hold the hook when you are working with the
crochet hook and the yarn. What happens here is when
you close these two fingers, the pinky and the finger, then you'll not be able
to pull on the yarn. The yarn will be
fixed in your hand. When you want to
work with the yarn, that is when you want to
feed the yarn to your work, then you can keep
opening the fingers and the yarn will
keep on slipping off. This is how you will hold the
yarn when you are working. Now in the next lesson, I'll show you the
first basic stitch of crocher that is the chain
stitch. I'll see you
8. L8- Chain stitch: Okay. Now that you
know how to hold the crochet hook and how to hold the yarn when you are
working with crochet, let us see how to do the first most basic
crochet stitch that is the chain stitch. Hold the hook as
we have studied. I'm holding it with
the knife hold. Hold the yarn as done
in the previous lesson. And just do a close up so it
is easier for you to see. Now, we'll just hold this knot. Hold the knot with your
middle finger and your thumb. Now take the hook to the front towards
you under the yarn. Then make the hook
face downwards. This will catch the
yarn in the hook. Then slowly pull the hook and pull it through
the loop. That's it. You first chain stitch is made. Let us see how to do that again. Take the hook, the
hook should be facing you from the front, go under the yarn. Turn the hook downwards, pull it through the loop
that was there on the hook. It might be difficult when you're doing it
in the beginning. Make sure that this loop that
is on the hook is loose. If it is very tight
and if you'll try to pull it, it
will not come out. So make sure that it is loose and make sure
it is not very loose. Otherwise, your chain
stitches will be very untidy. The basic thing is that the loop that is there
on the hook should be free it should be slipping
on the neck of the hook. It should not be very, very tight and it should
not be very loose. Let us see again, how to do a chain stitch. Go in the front under the yarn, face the hook downwards and gently pull it through the loop. You have to make sure
that the tension on this thread is
loose when you are passing the loop through the loop that is
there on the hook. As you can see, we have
started forming the chains. Keep repeating this under
the hook from the front, pull it through under the
hook and pull it through. And as you keep on
making the chain, keep moving the hand
near to the grocer hook. You can do three or four chains without moving the
hand like this, but then it will become
difficult to do them, move the hand again closer
to the hook like this, and then again, keep
making the chains. Okay. Now remember, when you're doing the chain,
don't go from the back. If you go from the
back, it will be difficult to catch the arn only, will not be able
to make the chain. So you have to go from the front under the arn then turn the hook downwards so that the yarn
is caught up in between the hook and then gently pull it through the loop that is
there on the hook. This is how you do
a chain stitch. Now, keep on practicing this, I would highly recommend
not to move on to the next module before you are extremely comfortable
with this chain stitch. Here, the purpose is not just to be comfortable
with the chain stitch. The purpose is to
be comportile with the holding of the hook and
the holding of the yarn and the movement of getting
doing a arnover and pulling it through the loops should go into your
muscle memory. Keep on practicing this
as much as you require. Everybody's learning
pace is different. As part your pace,
learn it, do it, practice it, and then only
move on to the next module. This is how you do the
first basic stitch. With this, we are done with
the tutorials for today. In the next lesson, I'll show
you how you are going to practice how to make the
schedule for practicing crochet. I'll see you in the next lesson.
9. L 9- Daily ritual for mindfulness: With this, we have come
to the end of Module one. We have finished all the
lessons for day one. Before we move on to
Module two or day two, there are certain homeworks
that you need to do. The first thing that
you have to do is you have to practice
the chain stitch. That is the only stage that we have learned in today's module. The reason that we have learned
only one stitch for today because today is the first day and along with chain stage, you are also going to practice the hook holes and the yarns, the two other techniques
that we learned. So The chain stage
has to be practiced, and you're not going to practice it anywhere in your home, you're going to find,
you're going to select nice quiet and
distraction free area, distraction free
corner in your home. You're going to sit
there. Make sure that the corner is
also clutter free. If it is very cluttered, you'll feel anxious when
you'll sit there and work. Since this is not just
a crochet course, this is a crochet
course for mindfulness, so we have to take care
of mindfulness as well. So you're going to sit in that particular corner and you're going to be mindful about where you are sitting,
what you are doing, be mindful about your breaths, be mindful about the texture of the yarn that will slip
through your fingers, be mindful about how the crochet
hook feels in your hand. Don't let your
mind wander a lot. Even if it wanders, then bring it back to the
present situation, bring it back to what you are doing at the current moment. This is how you are going to start practicing mindfulness. Along with this, make a nice cup of coffee or
tea, whichever you prefer, along with the practice so
that you can be even more relaxed and play
some nice music. You can play your favorite music or you can search
for mindfulness, instrumental music on YouTube, or you can use the referral link that I have provided
in the course. So play the music.
Have a nice cup of coffee or tea,
and then practice. I would recommend practicing for a minimum of 15 to 20
minutes in a stretch. Don't practice for
very short durations, because for mindfulness, you need to train your
mind and for training your mind you need at
least 15 to 20 minutes. Even if you're not
able to stretch to 15, at least do 10 minutes, and then you can
extend it accordingly. You can practice in
different chunks. You don't need to practice
only for 15 minutes in a day. You can practice
in three or four different 15, 15
minutes sessions. If you have enough
time, then you can practice for one to
1.5 hour at a stretch. That is entirely up to you. Once you are done
with this practicing, once you are done with
making the chain, click the picture of the
chain that you have created, if possible, take a close
up so that I can see it and I can give you the feedback on any changes that you might
need to make in that. And you're going to submit it in the form that I've provided
next to this class. The submit class project form. In that form, you
are going to submit the picture that you have
clicked off the chain. You have to submit
minimum of one picture and you can submit
maximum of five pictures. So do that as well, and then you can move on to
the next lesson. With this, there is one
more homework for you. As I mentioned, that this
is a mindfulness course, so you're supposed
to create a journal. I provided the
journal if you want, you can download it
and print it out. The instructions on how to fill the journal is also
given in detail. Read them out and start
filling the journal. The journal is a daily thing. You don't have to do it once
only and then stop doing it. It is supposed to be a habit. So make sure that you do it
every day and if possible, select a specific time of the day and try to do it
every day on the same time. Because when you do that, it actually helps to build a habit. It is a good idea to
have a good habit of journaling every day.
It is a simple journal. It will take around 20 to 30
minutes, not more than that. What you're going to
do in the journal. I'll just give you
a brief of that. You have to do
gratitude for daily, and you have to do weekly and
monthly gratitudes as well. If you want, you can download and print what I have provided. If not, you can just read
the instructions online and then just buy a diary or
a notebook that you like, and you can use it for
doing daily journaling. Just put the heading on the top, the day and date of the
particular day where you are doing it and then do it
in that diary itself. That also works really well. So these are the two
things that you're going to do practicing
the chain stage and maintaining a diary or a journal that you'll be
doing on a daily basis. Diary is your personal thing, so you don't need to
share it with anyone. But the chain that you'll make, I would strongly
recommend that you put it in the form so that I
can see what you have done, and I can give you feedbacks. So this is all for
today's module. Now, in tomorrow's module, we're going to learn the
other different stitches, single crochet, double crochet, half double groche stitch, triple groche stitch, and two or three more such
stitches that will form your basic or the background of every crochet project
that you'll make. So I'll see you in
tomorrow's module. So finish your homework
and come prepared.
10. DAY2- L10- Overview of the stitches: In this lesson, I'll just
take you through the overview of all the stitches that we are going to be learning
in this module. We'll learn a total
of five stitches, single crochet, half
double crochet, double crochet, crochet and we'll also learn
how to do a pick. Pick have not done
here because p is something very
different that we'll learn in a separate lesson. Right now, I just
want to show you how the different stitches are going to look when
you'll do them. Here, these are the
single croco stitches. As you can see these holes here, and this part, this is
one row of single crotch. So the single crochet
fabric is very go piece, and you can use it to make winter was or whatever
you want to make warm, or if you want something
that does not have holes, and this is the
stitch that is most commonly used for doing mgomes. If you want to do
crochet soft toys, then this will be
the stitch for you. Then the next stitch is
half double crochet. Half double crochet is slightly bigger than the double
crochet stitch. This one, these rows here are half double
gracious stitches. These are slight modifications of single gracious stitches. Actually, all the stitches are slight modifications
of each other. Once you get a hang of
one of the stitches, you can easily modify it to
learn the other stitches. These lines here are
the half double groce. These are slightly taller
than the single crochet, but they are shorter
than the double groche. Here now, these are the
double gracious stitches. These are the double
crochet rows. This one is done in rows. I started with a chain here
did I did a base chain. Then I did a few rows
of single crochets, then a few rows of
half double crochet, and then here I started with the double brocha stitches.
Don't worry about it. Since I've been doing it
for a very long time, I can easily identify
the stitches. But once you get used to it, you'll also be able
to identify them. Here are the double
croco stitches. These are taller than
the half double crochet, but these are shorter than
the triple croche stitches. Here are These are the
triple gcous stitches. So as you can see here that the triplecoca
stitches have a lot of gaps in between them because these stitches are
extremely tall. If you want to go for
a very lazy fabric, then this will be
the stitch for you. Usually, we do a combination of all these stitches to create the different crochet patterns. This is mostly the basic of whatever you're
going to create in crochet. This will be your base line. Master these four stitches and then you'll
be able to create intricate patterns using
just these four stitches. So here is the overview. You can see it from here. This is the sorry,
single croche stitches, which is very gap, then
half double crochet that has slight gaps, more than the single crochet. Then the double
crochet, which has even more gaps than the half double croche
single groceo stitches. And the most lacy one
is the triple crochet. We don't stop at triple crochet. We have stitches that
are taller than these. They are the double triple and the triple triple
croche stitches. We're not going to cover those for this particular course, but once you get a hang
of these four stitches, you can easily learn these two stitches that
I just mentioned, are slight modifications of
the triple croche stitch. So these are the four
stitches that we are going to be learning
in today's module, and we're going to be practicing these and then in
the next module, we'll move on to the project. Again, as I mentioned
in the previous module. For this one also, I would
highly recommend not to move on to the next
module till you have practiced this enough. All these stitches should
go in your muscle memory. You should not have
to think about how to do the
particular stitches. Once I say do a double crochet, you should know how to
do a double croche. Practice that must
take as many hours or as many days as you need because everybody's learning
base is different. Remember, what we are doing here is we are having fun
and we are learning a new hobby to get to
gain more mindfulness. Don't stress yourself out, even if you take a
little extra time, then it is no issue at all because since this
is a prerecorded force, you can play it as for your preferences
as for your speed. Practice and I'll see you in
the next lesson where I'll show you how to do the
single croche stitch. Before that, we will
see the structure of a chain because once
you are doing a stitch, you need to know how to insert the hook in order
to do the stitch. For that, in the next lesson, we'll first see the structure
of the chain stitch that you learned in
the previous module. I'll see you there.
11. L11- Structure of the chain stitch: Here, I'm going to show you the structure of
the chain stitch. For the entire tutorial, I've been using this size
two fine weight fingering, sorry sports weight yarn. But for this particular lesson, I have chosen a very thick yarn. If you remember, I
showed you this one in the lesson where I
introduced yarns to you. This is a size stick yarn. I've used this because it makes a very bold chain and we'll be able to see the
different parts of it. It will be easy for
me to explain to you the structure of a chain, the different parts, and where you're supposed to
insert the hook when you'll be working the rows
of stitches over the chain. So here is the chain
made with that size two. So it is very fine, so it will be difficult for you to understand the structure, and as you can see,
this one is very bold and big so you
can see the structure. It is exactly the same. Only the size varies. So let me show you So when
we talk about the chain, it has three loops. Each chain here,
before we go there, let me show you how
to count the chains. This part where, uh, the chain looks like a braid. This is the front
part of the chain, and this is the back
of the chain where you can see these bumps,
these tiny bumps. So this is the front part and this each v will
represent one chain. So when you have to
count the chains, then you can start from here, this is chain one, two, three, four, so you can just
keep on counting the that will be your chains. Now, when you're
working in the chain, when you hold it like this, then this will be the top loop and this will be
the bottom loop, or you can call this one
as the front loop of the chain and this one as
the back loop of the chain. Front loop and back loop. So when we are working,
we are going to insert the hook in
the back loop only. This is for me. Again, there is no such rule that you have to insert the hook in
the back loop only. Some people like to
work in the back loops and some people like to
work in the back bumps. But it is difficult to insert
the hook in the back bumps. This is a very small hook, so it is easily passing through. But if you'll use the
actual hook for this yard, then it would be difficult to insert the hook in these bumps. So One way of working the first round
after doing the chain. The chain usually forms the base of whatever
project you're doing. When you're doing
the first round, you can either work
in the back bumps, that is insert the hook in the bump and then
make the stitch, or you can work
in the back loop. So you're just going
to insert the hook in this loop and
then do the stitch. For me, every time when
I'll be doing the projects, I'll be inserting the hook in the back loops only because I don't like working
in the bumps because it is very difficult to
insert the hook there. This is the structure
of the chain. Back loop front loop, and when you'll flip
the chain over, these are the back bumps. Let me show it to you in
the fine chain as well. This is the front of the chain. These are the different
chains here so you can CDs. When I'll hold the
chain like this, horizontally for working,
this will be the back loop. This will be the front loop, and I I'll flip the chain over, then You can see
these bumps here. These are the backbums. Now, if I'll try to
insert the hook in these, you can see that it becomes
slightly difficult here. These are the backbms
When we'll be working, we'll be working in the back
loops pony in these loops. This is all about the
structure of the chain. In the next lesson,
we'll see how to do the single
grocous stitches. That is where we will be using this structure of the
chain because we are going to be working the
single grocous stitches in the base chain that
we'll create first. I'll see in the next lesson with the single grocous stitch.
12. L12- Single crochet stitch: Now, in this lesson, we'll see how to do the
single grocer stitch. That is these stitches. As I mentioned before, we'll be working all the stitches
on a base chain. So we'll start with a chain. We had learned in
the previous module that before you do a chain, you're going to do a slip knot. Once your slip knot is
ready, we'll start chains. Now this time, I'm going to do a particular
number of chains, so we'll just keep on
counting the chains. Let us do a total of 12 chains. So start one, two, three, four, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11 and 12. Here, you have 12 chains. Now we are going to do single
groceus stitches on these. As we studied in the
previous lesson, the structure of the chain. For the single grocese stitches, I'm going to be working
in the back loops only, so I'll be inserting the hook in these loops for
doing the stitches. Now we'll do the first
single groce stitch in the second chain from the ho. We don't work in the first chain because you already have
the loop coming out of it. This is the first chain. I'm not going to work
in the first chain, I'll insert the hook in the
second chain from the hook. Insert the hook here, then grab the yarn as you would for
doing a chain stitch. Grab the yarn, that is
taking the hook from the front under the yarn and
grabbing it in the hook. Pull it through only the chain. I'll pull it only
through the chain, not through the loop that
is there on the hook. Now I have two
loops on the hook. Now, grab the n again. When I say grab the
n, have to go from the front under the yarn
and catch it in the hook, then catch it and pass it through both
the loops on the hook. This is your single gros stitch. Let us do that again. Go in the next chain. Now, I've already
worked in this chain. I'll go in the back
loop of the next chain, insert the hook, grab the
yarn, pull up a loop. Now you have two
loops on the hook. I have just pulled the
loop through the chain. I have not pulled it through the loop that was
there on the hook. Now again, you have
two loops on the hook. Take the hook from
the front under, grab the yarn and pull it
through both the loops. Do that again, G
in the next chain. Work the single crochet
in this previous chain. Now I'll go in the next
chain, insert the hook, grab the n pull up a loop,
two loops on the hook. Again, grab the yarn. Through. Same way, keep on working
in all the chains. Since we had 11 chains, and we had 12 chains and we started from the
second chain from the hook, you're going to have a total
of 11 single grocer stitch. Just keep doing the same thing. Insert the hook in
the next chain, grab the pull up a loop, two loops on the hook, grab the n and pull through
pot the loops. Here, now I have just one
last chain remaining. Inside the hook in this
and do a sblect stage. Here, this is what
your first row of symbol coches will look like. Now, if you'll see
on the top, again, you'll see a structure similar to the chain stitch
that we talked about. Again, here we have the front
loop and the back loop. Here again, here will not
work only in the back loop. You can do that as well, but that will form
a different stitch. And the pattern will
usually mention it if you have to work only
in one of the loops. So as a general rule, we insert the hook under
both of these loops. You have to keep
the work like this. This is the base
chain that we did, and this is the top of the
single grocus stitches. Once you'll face the
top towards you, then you can see this
chain structure. And for inserting the hook, we're going to insert the
hook under both the loops. You're not supposed to remove
this yarn from the hook, I just removed it so
that I can show you how to insert and where
to insert the hook. So we're going to
insert the hook under both these
loops here like this. So we are done with
the first row. Now, for doing the second row, we always start with chains because single crochse stitch
has a little height to it, so we need to give
a little height before we start next row. For single croche we
start with chain one. We'll do a chain one. I've already flipped
the work over. I was working like this. Then turn your work
do a chain one, and then we're going
to insert the hook in this first hole that
you can see here. See, I'm inserting the
hook under both the loops. For doing that, you just have to insert the hook in
this hole and you will already be under both
the loops. Insert the Under these two
loops, grab the loop. Again, you have two
loops on the hook. Again, grab the yarn and
pull through both the loops. The single crocus stitch is the same as we did for
the first row. There we inserted the hook in
the back loop of the chain. Now we are inserting the hook under both the loops
of the stitch. Now again, go in the
second hole here. Grab the no. Again, you
have two loops on the hoo. Grab the again and pull
through both the loops. This is your second
single crocus stitch. Again, go in the next one here. Pull a two loops on the hook. To over again, pull
through both the loops. Debe Again, go in the
next stitch. Pull a loop. Again, Like this, now, when you are doing rows, you have to remember
that the number of stitches should be
same in each row, so we'll keep on counting. Now the last one
is very typical. You can see this hole here. You have to go in this. Pull up a loop, then you
have two loops on the hook. Grab the yarn again
and pull through both. Now let us give
it a quick count. So if you remember, we had
a total of 11 stitches. We have one, two,
three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten and 11, so we
are doing it right. Here you have two rows of
single gracious stitches. Now for the third row again, we have completed the
second row, two, one chain, then turn your work
over like this, again, we are going to start working in these single gracious
stitches of the previous row. Inside the hook in
the first le here, grab the pull up a loop. You have two loops on the hook, grab the n again
and pull through. F. Same way, keep on doing
single crocho stitches. Just keep counting, you
should have a total of 11 single crochets in
each row that you work. If you don't have 11,
if you have more, then you might have done two
stitches in the same stitch. If you have less, then you might have skipped a stitch
or you might have you might have skipped
a stitch while doing the single grocer
stitches or you might have not worked in the
last or the first stitch. Okay. So here, I'm done
with the third row. This is what a
single gross stitch will look like. Practice this. I've done three rows, keep
on doing as many rows as required for your practice till it goes in
your muscle memory. I will recommend
at least ten rows, ten to 15 rows. Keep doing those, and
then in the next lesson, I'll show you how to
do the next stitch. That is the double gros stitch. But do not move on
to the next lesson until you are very familiar
with the single groca stitch. Do it, practice it and make sure that it goes in
your muscle memory. You must be doing it
without thinking about it. Once you are that
familiar with the state, then move on to the next
lesson where you'll learn how to do double os state. So I'll see you in
the next lesson.
13. L 13- Double crochet stitch: In this lesson, we'll see how to do the double crocus stitch. Double gracious stitch is a slight modification of
the single coco stitch. Actually, all the
stitches will be slight modifications
of the base sta, the basic stage that
you just learned. I hope you have practiced
single crocus stitch enough that you can do it without putting
your brain to it. It has gone into
your muscle memory. Now let us see how to do
the double gcous stitches. Again, we are going to do
the stitch on a base chain. We'll start with a slip knot. Now, for double crochet, I'll do slightly greater number than we did for the
single coche stages. So here, I'll do chain
155 678-910-1112. Here is the base chain of 15. Now, for single coche, we did the stitch in the
second chain from the hook. This time we are going to do the stitch in the third
chain from the hook. I'll tell you why because a double coco stitch
as we discussed before, a double coco stitch is taller than a single
gracious stitch. So we need to give it more
height to start around, like I told you for
single crocus stitches, that you have to turn
it with a chain one. A double coco stitch will always be turned
with chain two or chain three because it is way taller than the
single gco stitch. So we'll work in the third
chain from the hook. So before you insert
the hook in the chain, I'm going to do a yarn over. Arnover means, I'll just catch
the yarn in the hook once. Go in the chain, the third
chain from the hook, the back loop of the chain, grab the yarn again,
and pull up a loop. Now, for single croche
you have two loops. For double croche you
have three loops. Now we have this index
finger three, as I said, that you have to control the loops on the hook
with this finger. So this is now where
you will use it. Now, hold this back loop, you're not going to
work in this hur loop, grab the iron again and pull it through the
first two loops. This is the first half of
the double grocus stitch. Now, again, do a over and pull it through
the two remaining box. This is your double
crochus stitch. This is your first
double gc stitch made. We'll do more in the next chain. So do a nover first. Go in the next chain. Grab the n and pull up. Now you have one, two, three loops on the
hook. Grab the again. Pull it through the
first two loops only. Again, you'll have two
loops on the hook. Grab the n again and pull
it through both the loops. This is your second
double gros stitch. Again, do a over, go
in the next chain. Pull up a loop over, pull through two loops, again, do over and pull
through two loops. Keep repeating this, do one double crocus stitch
in each of the chains, the 15 base chains that we made. So we skipped the
first two chains, and we started from
the third chain, you'll have a total
of 13 stitches. When we are doing
single crochet, it is slightly
difficult to count, but when you're doing
double croche stitches, it is very easy to count. You can see these vertical bars, each vertical bar represents
one double croche stitch. We can give it a quick
count one, two, three, four, five, six,
seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, and this turning chain will
be counted as one stitch, so this will be 14. You'll have a total
of 14 stitches here. Now, for doing a second
row, as I mentioned, that for doing rows of double croche you'll always
turn the two or three chains. So for the sake of this
tutorial, we'll do three, do one, two and three chains. Then turn the work over. Again, we are going to be working under both the
loops of the stitch. Same way as we did for
the single croche. You can see these
holes. We're going to insert the hook
in these holes. Now, when we are
doing double crochet, the first chain three will
always be counted as a stitch. When we do that, we'll
skip the first stitch. We're not going to
make the stitch here because these three chains will be working as a first
double crochet stitch. We'll do a yarn over and insert the hook in
the next stitch. Grab the iron. Now you have
three loops on the hook. Grab the iron again, pull through two loops, grab the on again and
pull through two loops. This is your double
croche stitch. This chain three will be your
first double crochet and this is the second double
groche stitch. Keep doing this. Now since we did not do a
stitch in the first stitch, we counted the first three
chains as the double crochet. Same way we will count the first three chains of the previous round as
the double crochet. You need to work the
last stitch there. Let me quickly finish the row so that I can show you how
to do the last one. Here is the last
double crush stitch. Now, this is the turning chain. I'm going to do the last
stitch in the turning chains. Insert the hook in the top
here of the turning chain. Grab the I'll just show you
where I've inserted the hook. You can see. These are the two, the two turning chains that we had in the beginning
of the previous round. I'm going to go here
in the top chain. You'll not go in the base one,
we'll go in the top chain. We yarn over first because we are doing double
grocer stitch. Inside the hook in the top
chain, pull up a loop. Now you have three
loops on the hook, then complete the
double grocer stitch. Then we are done with row two. We can give it a quick count
one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14. We have total 14 stitches, the same number as we had in the previous row. We
are doing it right. Again, do chain three, one, two and three. Then turn the walk over, and now we're going
to do the third row, same way as we do
the second row. We're going to skip
the first stitch, over, insert the hook
in the second stitch. We're not going to insert
the hook in the first row, first stitch, sorry, first hole. We're going to insert
in the second stitch and complete a double groch Then go in the next one,
keep on doing this. And again, remember that the
last stitch will be worked in the top chain of the turning chain that we
did in the previous row. I'm doing it fast. Don't
worry about the speed. You can pause it if you want. If you want to croche along, you can pause it and
then complete the row. Here is the last double crochet. Now, the last stitch will be worked in
this turning chain. So insert the hook in
the turning chain. To a arnver first. We are going to make the
stitch in the turning chain. So if you're not work the last
one in the turning chain, then the number of stitches
will keep on reducing and you'll make a triangle
instead of proper rectangle. So I can count it again, one, two, three, four, five,
six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13 14, the exact number
of stitches as we had for the previous rows. So this is how
you're going to do the double proche
stitches. Keep on working. Again, I would
recommend practice at least for ten or 15 rows. Once you're done
with this, then we will move on to the next stitch, that is a half double crochet, which is a very
slight modification of the double brocha stitch. You'll learn that very quickly, but before that, you should have a good hang of this stitch. It should go in
your muscle memory. Practice this one more thing
I just want to mention. If you make any mistake,
you don't worry about it. If you remove the hook and if
you'll just pull this yard, you'll unravel the stitches. You can always undo
and redo the stitches. So if you make a mistake,
don't worry about it, you can just undo the stitches
and then do them again. There you go. This is the
double process stitch. Practice it, and then
in the next lesson, I'll see you with the next
tutorial of doing a half.
14. L14- Half double crochet stitch: In this lesson, we'll see how to do the half double
groche stitch. As I mentioned before, this is a slight modification of
the double groche stitch, you'll be able to learn it faster than the other stitches. Let us see how to do a
half double groce stitch. Again, we are going to
start with a base chain. Do a slip stitch first,
slipknot, sorry. Do a slip knot first and
then make the base chain. We'll do 15 only for this again, one, two, three, four, five. Nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Again, half double crocus stitch will be worked in the
third chain from the hook. It is a slight modification
of the double crocus stitch, do a yarn over and then go in the stitch very
warm to work the stitch. Here we are going to do
it in the third chain, go in the back loop
of the third chain. Grab the yarn, pull up a loop. Till here, it is same as
the double croche stitch. You have one two and
three loops on the hook. The only difference is that
we're going to do a yarn over and pull it through
all three loops in one go. For double crochet,
we did that in two stages for half double
croche you do it in one go. Let us do that again
to a yarn over, insert the hook in the next
stitch, pull up a loop. Three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through
all three loops. Again, Three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull
through all three. Here are half double grocery
stitches. Keep doing these. Again, for half double croche, the first chain two will be
counted as the first stitch, as we did for the
double groceo stitches. And when you're
working the next row, the last stitch will be
worked in the top of the turning chains of the previous row as we did
for the double croco stitch. It is the same as the
double grocous stitches. Just a slight modification
that you have to pull the loop through
all three loops in one go, not in two stages as we did
for the double croche stitch. So here is the last stitch. So you're done with the first row of half double
croche stitches. Now for the beginning of the row for a double croche
stitch, we do chain three. So for half double croche
will be chain two. We do chain two, Turn your work. Again, this chain two will be counted as the first stitch. Now, whenever you're
following a pattern, it will always be
mentioned there whether the first turning chains are
counted as a stitch or not. Usually, as a general rule, we count the stitches as a first stitch for half double
double and triple coches. We don't count them for
single coche stitches. It will be mentioned
in the pattern. So if it is mentioned,
then you're going to skip the first stitch here. Well not work in
the first stitch. We'll go in the second stitch. So do I arnover first. Go in the second
stitch, pull up a loop. We have three loops on the hook. Y over again and pull
through all three loops. This is the first half double
cos of the second row. Again, over, pull
through all three. Over, go in the next stitch, pull up a loop, arover again, pull through all three loops. Keep doing this till
the last stitch. As we did for the double
croche we are going to do the last stitch in the top turning chain
of the previous row. Here's the last stitch. Now, here are the
two turning chains. Insert the hook in the
top turning chain, and complete the half double. This is your second row. If you're done with
the second row, you want to give it
a quick count, one. If you just stretch it a
little, you can see these gaps. This is one stitch. One, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12 and 13 stitch. Let us count from the
previous row as well. One, two, three,
four, five, six, seven, eight, nine,
ten, 11, 12, 13. Our stitches. We have
done something wrong. Let me count it again, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13. I have done the stitch
in the last stitch. This is the last stitch. I
skipped the turning chain. I'll do it over again. Go in the turning chain here. And to the last half double go. There you go. Now I have 14 stitches in the
second row as well, so we are going right. Again, chain to turn the work. Again, skip the first stitch, go in the second one to a half double goch and continue the same way
all the way across. Just keep going till
the last stitch. Again, I'm doing it fast. If you are doing a Crotealong, then you can pause it, finish the row and then come back to see how to
do the last stitch. He is the last stitch. Then this was the last
half double crochet. Then the last stitch
will be worked in the turning chain go in
the top turning chain. It might be slightly difficult to insert the hook in the chains because they are sometimes
tend to get closed, they become very tight. It might take a little effort to insert the hoo, but
don't worry about it. Grab the pull through all three. The third row is complete. The same way, keep on practicing the half double crochet as you did for the double
proche stitch. Again, I would recommend doing at least ten to 15 rows and keep counting the number of stitches
because you don't want to create a triangle or you
don't want to create a fill. It should be a
perfect rectangle. The number of stitches
should be the same in each and every row. We keep counting and keep
creating keep on practicing. This again, should go
in your muscle memory. Once you are done with this, once you are okay, once you are confident
enough that you can easily work a half
double groceo stitch. Then move to the next
lesson where I'll show you how to do a
triple crocus stitch.
15. L15- Triple crochet stitch: We have learned the
single crochet, half double broche and the
double broche stitches. Now we are going to do
the Triple groche stitch. If you have practiced
the double crochet and half double
groche stitches well, then this should be
a piece of cake. It would be very easy for
you to learn because this is a slight modification of
the double crochet stitch. Let us see how to do the stitch
for Triple Groche stitch, again, we are going to
start with a base chain. Do a slip knot first. Again, I'll do chain 15. So we're going to do the first
row on base chain of 15. If you remember we did first double crochet stitch in the
third chain from the hook, for triple crochet, we'll start working from
the fourth chain. The reason is the same. A triple croche stitch is even taller than
a double crochet. To start the row, we need
to give it a height. For single crochet, we left one chain for half
double crochet, we left two chains for
half double and double, both we leave two chains, and for a triple crochet
we leave three chains. We are going to start
working in the fourth chain, and it is similar to the
double croche stitch. For a double crochet,
you did a yarn over, and then we inserted the
hook for triple crochet, we do a yarn over two times. And then we insert the hook in the back loop of the chain where we want
to work the stitch. Grab the yarn, pull up a loop. Now, for double crochet
and half double crochet, you had three loops on the hook. For triple crochet,
we have four. Now, do a yarn over, Now, for double crochet, we made the stitch in two steps. Triple crochet is
made in three steps. We'll do a arnver pull it through the first
two loops only. Now you have three
loops on the hook. Do a arover again. Again, pull through the
first two loops only. Now you have two loops
on the hook, again, do a arover and pull
through two loops. This is your first
triple croche stitch. It is taller than the
double croche stitch. Let us do it again. Do
a arnver two times. Insert the hook in
the next chain here. Grab the yarn, pull up a loop. Again, you have one, two, three, and four loops. No. Pull through two loops, arnver again, pull
through two loops, yarn over again and pull through
the remaining two loops. Again, yarn over two time inside the hook, pull up a loop, yarn, pull through two, noverH through two, yarn
over, pull through two. This is how you do the
triple croc stitches. I'll just finish
off the row quickly so that I can show you
how to do the next row. Make sure that you do not
skip any of the chains. You have to make one stitch
in each and every chain. I can see that the row
has started forming, and as I mentioned in the first
lesson of today's module, that this has a lot of gap. You can easily put your
finger through it. Keep doing this till
the last chain, you have to do one triple
cro in each chain across. This is the last chain, do the last triple Groch
in the last chain. We are done with
the first row of triple Grochs. You
can give it a count. Again, we are going to count these turning chains
as the first stitch. This is one, two,
three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 30. We have 13 stitches,
so we should have 13 stitches in the
next row as well. For double broche stage, we turn the roof
with chain three. For triple crochet, we're
going to turn with chain four, as I mentioned, because triple crochet is slightly taller. We'll do one, two, three, and four chains, and then turn the work. Again, this first chain four will be counted
as a first stitch, so we'll skip the first stage, we'll not do a
triple croche here. So do a arover twice
and insert the hook in the next stitch and
then do a triple crochet, same way as we did
for the first row, overthro two loops,
verro two loops, again, arover and
puro two loops. Like this, keep on working a triple grocus stitch
in each stitch. Make sure that you don't
skip any of the stitches. Otherwise, your piece
will become untidy. You have to have one
stitch in each stitch. We can always count
the stitches at the end of the row so that we know we have not made a mistake. And if you've made a mistake, then you can easily undo the stitches and then
redo the row again. So I'm doing it fast. If you are doing crochet along, then you can pause the video, complete the row,
and then come back. This was the last
triple crochet stitch. Now the last one has to be
done in the turning chain, so this is the turning chain. Do a over two times, insert the hook in the
top turning chain here, pull up a loop, and complete
the triple crochet stitch. There you go. Here, the
second row is done. Now the third row will be
done in the same way to chain four. Turn the work. This will be counted
as the first stitch. Now before we move
to the next row, let us count the stitches of
the previous row one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine,
ten, 11, 12, 13. We had 13 in the first row and we have 13 in
the second row, so we are doing it right. Again, we have done
the turning chains. Now, do yarn over two times, skip the first stitch
and start doing triple coches from
the next stitch. Same way. Keep
completing the rows. Make sure that you do the last stitch in the
turning chain. Otherwise, the stitch count will vary and instead of
doing a rectangle, we will create some other shape. Just keep on counting at the end of each rule so that you know that
you're doing it right. Here is the last triple crochet Walk the triple crochet
stitch in that. Then the last one will be worked in the top of the turning chain. Okay. This is how you do the croc stitch. Now, in the next lesson, I'll show you how to
do the slip stitch. A slip stitch is
a essential stage because it is usually used for finishing off the work and for joining the
rows and the rounds. So I'll show you how
to do the slip stitch. Slip stitch is the
simplest of all. It will be very easy
for you to learn it. Here, we are done with
a triple Croce stitch. Again, practice it. Once you are very
comfortable with this stage, then only move to
the next lesson that will show you how
to do the slip stitch. I'll see you in the next lesson.
16. L16- Slip stitch: Now that you are familiar
with the single gc, double gosh tuple poco as well
as the triple gco stitch. Let us see the next stitch
that is the slip stitch. Here I have done a small
patch of double gco stitches. We'll just see one row of slip stitch and see
how it is done. So as we studied that
for simile crochet, you need to start the
row with chain one. For half double, we
start with chain two. For double crochet, we
start with chain three, and for triple crochet we
start with chain four. When we're doing slip stage, we don't need to do
any starting chains because a slip stitch is
extremely short in height, so it does not require any raves in height
before we start the row. So let us start. So
we are not going to count we're not
doing any chains, we're not going to
skip any stitches. We'll start directly
from the first sta. For doing the first slip stitch, insert the hook in
the first hole here. Grab the yarn, pull up a loop. Now we have two
loops on the hook. We don't need to
grab the yarn again. We are just going
to pass this loop, the front loop on the hook
through the back loop. Do this. This is
your slip stage. Let us do that again.
Go in the next stage. Pull up a loop. Now pass the front loop on the hook
through the back loop. One more time, go
in the next stage. Grab the pull a loop, pass the front loop
through the back. This is how you do
the slip stage. As you can see here, you can hardly make out that we
have made any stitch here. So a slip state does not
have any height to it. That is why you did not add
any chains in the beginning. This is how you do a slip stage
I'll just finish the row. Go in the stitch,
wrap the a loop, past the front loop
through the back room. That is it. Again, to end the row, we are going to do
the last stitch in this turning chain here. Go in the top turning
chain, wrap the yarn, pull up a loop, two
loops on the hook, past the front look
through the back. Here we are done with one
row of slip stitches. You can keep on
practicing this stitch as well as you did with
the other stitches. Once you are done with it, then in the next lesson, we'll see how to do a
pickle. I'll see there.
17. L17- Picot stitch: In this lesson, we'll
see how to do a pick. Again, I have a batch of
double grocer stitches. I've done four rows of
double broche and we're going to do picks over this. Let us see how to do that. We'll start with a
single crochet and as we had learned to start a
single crochet role, we start with a chain one to do a chain one and do a single
crocho in the first stitch. Now, for doing a pico, we'll do three chains, one, two, and three. Now we'll do a slip stitch. We learned the slip stage
in the previous lesson. So here for doing
the slip stage, I'm going to insert the hook in these 2 bars
that you can see. This is the front loop of the single croc stitch and this is the vertical bar
of the symbol Croc. Go in that, grab the
yarn, pull up a loop. You have two loops on the hoop, finish the slip stitch
as we learned before. This small bulge
that you can see, this is called a pick. This is usually used
to create borders. It creates very
nice point borders, delicate borders look very nice. This is a good
stitch to know and you can use it in
different patterns. Now I'm going to do two
more single broches in the next two stitches. One. And two. Now I'll again do a pick. We're doing a pico do one, two, and three chain. Again, we'll do a slip stitch. Now for doing a pico, there are a number
of different ways. The one that I showed
is one of the way. The second way is you don't
need to go in these 2 bars. What I can do is I'll just go in the third
chain from the hook. This is the first chain, second, and this is the third chain. Go in the third chain from the hook and do a
slip stitch there. We're doing a slip
stitch, grab the iron, pull up a loop, and pull the front loop through
the back light. Again, I'll do two single
croches one and two. You can hardly make out the
difference between these two. These are two ways of doing
the cos. Let me do two more, one, two, and three. For the previous method, I'd go in the front loop of the stick and
the vertical bar. These two loops, wrap the and pull the front
through the back. Again, to single croc Okay. And this time, it will be clear. Here you go, as you can see that it is creating a nice porter. This is how you do a pico stage. Now, don't worry about
how to do it when to do it because whenever
you're following a pattern, the pattern will clearly state where you're
supposed to create a pico. The method might not be stated, the pattern will just
say do a pico you can use any of the two
methods that we learned. One was inserting the hook in the front roof of the
single in the vertical bar, and the second one was doing a slip stage in the third
chain from the hook. So both ways work really well and you can't even make
out which type of pico, uh, which method you used
for doing the pickle. So this is, uh, very pretty stitch that you
should know. So this is all. Now, in the next lesson, I'll give you some
practice patterns so that the practice won't
get boring for the stitches. Uh, we'll not be doing any
projects in this module, we'll be doing the project
in the next module. For this module, we're just
going to be practicing and mastering all the stitches
that we have learned. The chain stage we
have already mastered. Single crochet, double crochet, have double crochet,
uh, triple crochet. Slip stage we don't need to practice because it is
a very simple stage. So we'll be practicing
these four stitches mainly. I'll give you four
different practice patches in the next four lessons. So pick each and everyone
and practice them so that you master the stitches before we move on to our next module. So this is it for this lesson. I'd say in the next lesson.
18. L 18- Practicing the stitches with mindfulness: Now we will dive deeper into the art of mindfulness
through crochet practice. Before we begin, find yourself a quiet and compatible
space that is free from distraction and
clutter and take a moment to center yourself
by focusing on your breath. In this session, we are going
to practice the stitches that we have learned so
far in a mindful way. Mindfulness means being
fully present in the moment, and what better way
to do that than being indulged in the rhythmic
moments of crochet. Before we begin with
the actual practice, take a moment to feel
the texture of the yarn, feel its softness, feel the warmth and the
weight of the yarn. This simple act of feeling the yarn can bring you
in the present moment, grounding you in here and n.
Now begin with the practice, start with the first
practice swatch, and as you crochet, pay attention to every
moment of your hand. Pay attention to
the slight pull on the yarn and the rhythmic
movement of your crochet hook. Be fully present
with every stitch, letting go of any thoughts or distractions that may arise. If your mind starts to wander, bring it back to the
sensation of the stitches. Remember, the purpose of this practice is not
perfection but presence. Use this time to connect
with the rhythm of your stitches and cultivate
mindfulness in your craft. Let's continue our mindful
crochet journey together. Take as much time as
you need to practice all the four practice switches
in the next four lessons. And when you are ready, join
me in the next session.
19. L19- Practice the single and double crochet stitches: Now we have learned
all the stitches. Before we move ahead
to the project, let us do some more practice. We'll be doing the first
practice patch and this lesson. For doing the practice patch, we are going to practice
the single coco and the double croc
stitches for this one. We'll start with the base chain. Do a slip knot first. I'll start with chain 15. The chains. Now we'll start with
the first round, that is a row of
single crochets. As we had learned that
for doing single crochet, we'll skip the first stitch
that is this one and you'll go in the second chain from the hook and do a
single crochet here. Then do a single crochet
in each chain across. Since we had 15 chains and
we skip the first one, so you're going to have
a total of 14 stitches. Remember the stitch
count because we need to create a rectangle, so each and every row should
have a total of 14 stitches. Continue till the last chain. Here, your first row is done. Now the second row will be
of double croche stitches. But remember that when we have to do a double
crochet stitch, then we turn the
work with in three, do in three and turn the work. Now in double crochet, we're going to be counting this chain three as the first stitch, we'll skip the first
stitch and start with double crochet in
the next stitch. And do double crochet each
in every stitch across. Now, for slecrochs
we don't count the first turning
chain as a stitch. So we'll not be doing the
last double croche on the turning chain as you would normally do for
doing double croche. What we have to remember is
that we need to have a total of foteen stitches after
the end of each row. So we'll just give a kick quick count and see that we have the exact number of
stitches that we need. Now, just count one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14. We have total 14 double
croche stitches. Now again, we'll do
a single broche. For doing single broche, we'll do a chain one
and turn the work. For a single croche chain one
is not counted as a stitch, so we will not skip
the first stage. We'll do a single crochet starting from the
first stitch on. Now, do a single croche in
eight stitch till the end. Now again, remember, you need to have a total of
protein stitches. Since we counted the
turning chain of the double crochet row
as the first stitch. We'll do the last single croche stick in
the turning chain. Here I'm done with the last single croche in
the double proche stitch. Now the last one will be
done in the turning chain. These are the three
chains that we did in the beginning of the double
croche stitches for turning. Go here in the top chain
and do a single Here, you are done with the third
row of single coches. Now for this practice patch, we're just going to do
alternate rows of single coche, double coche, single
poca double proche. So we did the single coche. Now we'll again do a
double pch stitch, a double proche row, sorry. So for that, again, chain three for turning. Turn the work, skip
the first stitch and start with double poco
stitches from the next stitch Keep doing the val
coco stitches, make sure that you don't
skip any of the stitches. You should have 14
stitches in each row, then only you'll have
a perfect rectangle. Okay. If you are doing a crochlong you can
pause the video here, complete the rows,
and then again come back to see what
you have to do next. Now since I've already
taught you the stitches, I'm going a little
fast in this video. Count 1234, five,
six, seven, 8912. Here, this continue this way. We have done single crochet double brochure again
to a single croche row, then a double broche o
again, single double. Keep doing that for as many times as required
for your practice. This is what your
patch can look like. I've just done a small square. You don't need to finish
it off in these many rows. If you want you can practice for longer or shorter as many
many rows as required. It is up to you. Also, it is not necessary that you
have to start with 15 chains. I just did because I wanted
to make a small patch. If you want to make
a broader patch, you can increase the
number of chains. But I would strongly recommend not to create a
very broad patch, otherwise, you'll get
four two in the rows. So it is a good idea to keep
the chain count 15-20 or 25. Don't go beyond
that for practice. Okay. So once you're done, let us see how to finish
it for finishing it, just extend this loop a little. And I'm just going
to cut the yarn, leaving a small tail five
to six inch long tail. And then to secure, just
pull this through the loop. There you go. This is how you finish off any project
that you're doing, and then we'll
later on see how to finish how to hide
these tiles that are hanging both from
the front as well as the beginning as well
as the end of the work. This is the first patch
that you have practiced. This one was for single poca
and double pocus stitches. Now in the next lesson,
we'll see how to practice the half double pc and the triple procus stitches. I'll see in the next lesson.
20. L20- Practice the half double and triple crochet stitch: In this lesson, we'll
see how to practice the half double chi and
the triple poca stitch. Again, we'll start
with the base chain. Place a slip knot
on your hook first. This time do chain 16. You can do as many
chains as you want. But as I mentioned in
the previous lesson, don't go beyond 25. Here, I'm done with 16 chains. Now, we have already
learned how to do the first half double
crochet row over the chains. We'll just do that. Skip
the first two chains, go in the third one and do a
half double crochet stitch. Do a half double crochet
stitch in each chain across. Now I'm going a little
faster because we have already learned how
to do the stitches. If you're doing a crochlong
we can pause the video and then come back to see what
you're supposed to do next. Here I'm done with the first row of half double
proche stitches. Now for this practice patch, we are going to do two rows of half double crotches and
one row of triple crotch. We'll just keep on repeating that pattern until you are
done with the practice. I'm just going to
make a small square as I did for the previous one, but you can keep on making as many stitches as
required for a practice. Now for the second row
of half double crochet, we are going to be chain two for turning because that
is the number of chains that is required for turning to do a
half double proche row. Now we'll be counting this
chain two as the first stitch, so we'll skip the
first stitch and do a half double proche
in the next stitch. Now continue the same way doing a half double crochet stitch
in each stitch till the end. Now, make sure that you do the last half double croche
over the turning chains. Because for half double croche we count the turning chain
as the first stitch. Continue and do the last
one on the turning chains. Here, do the last one on
the turning chain here. Here we are done with two
rows of half double crochet. Now we'll do a triple crochet. For doing a triple crochet row, we are going to start
with chain four. To chain four turn your work. Skip the first stitch and do triple crochet starting from the next stitch
till the last one. Again, remember that
the last stitch has to be done in the
turning chain because we counted the two turning
chains as the first stitch. You have already
learned how to do a triple croche so I'm
going a little fast. If you're doing a
crochlong again, pause the video to
the complete role and then come back to see what you're supposed to do next. Now, the last one will be
done in the turning chains, go in the top turning chain
here P the last stage. Now continue the same way, do two rows of
double crochet and then one row of triple crochet for as many rows as required. This is what will make
your practice patch. This is what your practice
patch will look like. These are two rows of
half double crochet and one row of trippco stitches. Again, we did this on 16 chains. You can do as many
changes as required for a practice and you can do
as many rows as needed. So this is it for the practice patch for the half double crochet
and the trippco stitches. Then the next lesson, we'll
see another practice patch, and that's it. I'll
see you there.
21. L21- Practicing more of single and double crochet stitch: In this lesson, we'll see how to practice the single
chic stages again. But the same we're going to do a slightly different
pattern so that it keeps so that
it is interesting. Let'll start again
with chain 15. Now, we'll start with a
row of single crochets. Skip the first stitch,
start from the second one and do single crochet
in each chain across. We have already
learned the stitches, so I'm going fast if
you're doing broche along, p, complete the row
and then come back. Or you can just go through the entire video once to know
what you're supposed to do, and then you can do it yourself. You don't need to exactly follow the video because we have
already learned the stitches. Done with the first row or
single grocus stitches. Now we're going to
do two more rows of single grochs then we'll do
a double broche stitch row. For doing the second
single broche row, I'm going to do a chain
one, turn the work. This this will not be
counted as the first stitch. We'll start with single
groche first stitch itself. We're not going to
skip the stitch. We did 15 chains, so we'll have a total of
14 single groceo stitches. To keep a count so that you know that you
are doing everything. You have not skipped
any of the stitches. The basic reason of practicing stitch patterns is one is that you'll get a
hang of the stitches. And the second is you'll
learn how to work in rows because it is slightly typical to get the
exact same number of stitches in every row because you'll make a scar for a table runner or a gra
or something like that, then the piece will
not be exact rectangle and it will look
very untidy if you don't have the same
switch count in each row. So that is why we
are practicing this. So the second row is done. Now, do one more row of
single roses stitches. Make sure that you
don't skip any of the stitches and
you don't do two stitches in the same stitch. The stitch count should be
exactly the same in every row. Here three rows of
simple broche are done. Now we'll do one row
of double broche. For doing double poco stitches, we'll do chain. Turn the work. Now this chain three will be
counted as the first stitch, so we'll kip the first stitch, start from the second one and start doing double
poco stitches. Now, three rows of single crochet, one
row of double croche. We're just going to
keep on repeating this pattern for this pus patch. Again, we're going to do
one row of single crochet. For doing the single
grocous stitches, chain one, turn the work. We'll start with the
first stitch itself. Keep doing single
grocous stitches in each stitch till the end. Now, remember that the previous
row was double crochet, so we counted the first
chain three as the stitch. So we're going to do
the last single proche of this row in the
turning chain. Whenever you are counting the
turning chain as a stitch, then only in the next row, you're going to do the last
stitch in that turning chain. Otherwise, you'll leave
the turning chains as. Here I'm going to
do single crochet. Now I'm going to do one
more row single crochet. Now we did not count
the first stitch as a first chain
one as a stitch, so we'll not do a
single crochre there. We'll just do single crochet in each single croche stitch. Continue this way till you have a nice big piece until you have practiced enough with doublet single
gracious stitches. This is what a patch
will look like. This is three rows
of single proche and one row of double crochet. Again, you can make a bigger or smaller patch as per
your requirement. This is it. This is how you practice single pot and
double poco stitches. This was patch three. In the next lesson, we'll
see one more patch for practicing all the stitches
together. I'll see
22. L22- All 4 stitch practice: In this lesson, we'll do
one more practice swatch. For this one, we're going
to practice single crochet, double crochet, double crochet
and DripleGroch stitches. So we'll start with a slip knot, and again, I'll do a base chain. For this, also, I'll do a base
chain of 15, do chain 15. We'll do the first row
of single crochet. So if you remember
that we'll start doing the single crochets from the second
chain from the hook, so we are going to skip
the first chain and do a single crochet in the
second chain from the hook. Now continue and move one single crochet each
in each chain across. Keep doing single crochet
stitches for the first row. Here, I'm done
with the first row of SimleGrocous stitches. Now for the second row, we are going to do half
double procous stitches. For half double proche, we always turn with
chain two. Do chain two. Turn your work and start with half double procous stitches
in each stitch across. Now, we had 15 base chains and we skipped the first chain. So we had a total
of 14 stitches. Remember to keep account
of your stitches, you should have 14 stitches in each row because we need
to create a rectangle. It should be a even rectangle, so the number of stitches should be even in each and every row. Here, second row of half
double croce stitches is done. Now the third row will
be of double croches. So for double crochet, we turn with chain three. Do chain three, turn the work and start with double
grocheus stitches from the second stitch. We're going to skip the
first one and start with the second stitch and keep doing double crochous
stitches in eighth stitch. I'm going a little fast because we have already learned
all the stitches. So if you are doing
a ocher along, pause the video,
complete the role, and then come back to the video. Now, for this row, you
have to remember that the last stitch has to be
worked in the turning chain. I'll do the last double
crochet in the top chain of the first chain to admitted for turning for the half
double croche stitch row. Here, I'm done with
the double croches. Now for the triple crochet, the next row will
be triple croches. So for that, I'm going
to turn with chain four. Do chain four, turn your
work and start with the second stitch from the hook and do a triple
croche stitch here. Now, the same way you
are just going to complete two one
triple brocha stitch in each stitch in the end. Remember to do the last one in the turning chain for the
double groce stitches. But this you'll be done
with the fourth row, and you're going to keep
on repeating this pattern, one row of single groche, one row of half double groche, then one row of
double groche and then again one row
of triple groche. The only thing that you
need to remember is that the one turning chain for the single croco stitches is not counted as the first stitch. Whereas the turning chains for all the other three rows will be counted as
the first stitch. You should have a total of
14 stitches in each row. With this, this
practice patch is done. When you are done, it will
look something like this. This one I have ended with
a single crochet row. So this is single crochet, half double double
rippoch stitch. Again, single half
double double entriple keep repeating this as long
as required for practice, practice all the four
stitches with this. We're done with the
last practice patch. Now I'll see you in
the next letter.
23. Day 3- L 23- Introduction to color theory and color psychology: Hello, and welcome to day
three of our journey together. By now, you have learned all the fundamental
stitches of crochet, and I hope that you have
found joy and relaxation in the rhythmic motion of your
crochet hook and the yarn. Now let us dive into
something equally important and fascinating for our
crochet, that is color. Before we dive into choosing colors for our Kosher project, let us touch upon the color
theory and color psychology. I want to emphasize that I'm not a psychologist or a
color theory expert, but I've done my research, and I'm excited to share what I've learned
through my experience. Let's talk about the basics
of color theory first. Here is a simple color. As you can see, in
the central triangle, the number one, two, and three are the
primary colors. The numbers four, five, and six here are the
secondary colors. The primary colors are the red, yellow, and blue colors. And when you combine any two
of these primary colors, you get a secondary color. If you combine yellow and
blue, you'll get green, yellow and red will make orange, red and blue will make purple. All the colors that
are on the outside in the circular ring that you can see here are the
tertiary colors. These are the colors that
you get when you combine a primary and a secondary color or two secondary
colors together. So there are a number
of different colors and shades other than what you can see here in this color wheel, but these are the basics
that you need to understand. Now, in this color wheel, the colors that are
exactly opposite to each other are called the
complimentary colors. Like you can see
that green and red are exactly opposite in the
outer circle to each other. These are the
complimentary colors. Same way yellow and purple and orange and blue are
also complimentary colors. If you are combining two colors or working with
different colors, then this is a good
knowledge to have in order to do a nice
color combination. If you want to go for
a very contrast color, then you can go for the
complimentary colors. Other than that, the colors
that are close to each other are the analogous colors. To get a more subtle or
soothing color combination, you can choose analogous colors, you can see here the pink, the pinkish purple and the
purple are analogous colors. Same way shades of yellow
and green are analogous. You can mix these colors to create a more
soothing color combo. Similarly, we have
the monochromes. These are the same
colors like this will be the shades or tones
of the same color. In this picture, you can
see the example of red. All these five colors, all these five patches
that you can see are red, Some of the colors are
obtained by mixing black with the red color and
some are obtained with mixing white
with the red color. When you mix white
with any of the color, you get different tints, and when you add black
with different colors, you get the different shades
or the different tones. Combining the different
shades or tones of a color is also a good option to create something in
different colors. This is just the basic outline of the different colors
that are out there. You can experiment
with them and see what you like and then choose
the colors according. Other than this, we also
have warm and cool colors. As you can see here on
the left hand side. These are the cool colors, the shades of green,
blue and purple. Whereas on the right hand side, you can see the warm
colors that are the shades of red,
orange and yellow. The colors that give us a feeling of warmth
are the warm color. As you can see, the sun
is yellow in color, and the colors that
give us a feeling of coolness like the
sky or the ocean, these colors are the
soothing, cool colors. These are the shades
of blue and green. Colors have a huge impact on
our emotions and they can influence the way we perceive and feel about
the world around us. So let us explore some of the emotional impacts of the
common colors around us, both the positive and
negative impacts so that we can choose our
croche colors mindfully. Let us start with the color red. Color red is usually associated
with passion and energy, and it evokes warmth and love. But again, too much of red can cause anger and aggression. Then the next color is orange. It symbolizes enthusiasm and creativity and can evoke
a feeling of optimism. But again, if orange
is used in excess, it can cause overwhelm
and restlessness. The next color is yellow is
the color of the sunshine. Obviously, it represents
happiness and positivity. Also, it represents
optimism and warmth. But again, too
much of yellow can cause a feeling of
anxiety and overwhelm. The next color is green, green is the most soothing color because it is the
color of the nature. It brings a sense of
calmness and rejuvenation, but too much of green can
cause a feeling of stagnation. Then the next one is blue, blue is for serenity,
peace, and trust. But again, Do not
use too much of blue because excess of blue color can cause feeling of sadness. Then the next color
is purple, purple, represents royalty
and spirituality. It can also inspire imagination, but too much of
purple is not good because it induces a
feeling of decadence. The next color after
purple is pink, pink stands for sweetness, romance, compassion,
as well as energy. It is a color that represents
tenderness and affection, but too much of pink can make you feel overly
delicate or immature. Then the next color is brown, brown is the color of the earth. It is again a soothing color. It is good to use,
but too much of brown is also not
good because it creates the negative feeling of dullness and it can be
sometimes uninspiring. Then the next color is gray. Gray is a sophisticated color, and it can add depth and elegance to any of
your creations, but too much of gray will again provoke a feeling of
dullness and detachment. Then we come to black. Black is a mysterious
and powerful color. It represents
sophistication, strength, and authority, but too much
of black can be intimidating. Then we come to the color white. White color is a symbol
of purity and innocence. It can represent
clarity and openness, but too much of white can
usually feel a little cold. Remember, the key here is
balance and mindfulness. Pay attention to how different
colors make you feel and consider what emotion you want to evoke in your
crochet project. I hope this brief exploration of color theory and
psychology has inspired curiosity and inspired you to choose crochet
colors intentionally. Join me in the next
session where we will do our first crochet project with
a mindful color selection.
24. L 24- Mini purse Project introduction: After learning about the
mindful selection of colors, we can move on to
our project that made the first project
of your Kushi journey. For this one, I've
selected this mini pouch. It is very easy
to do and it uses the simple basic
stitches that you have learned in the
previous modules. So first of all, we're going to create
a big rectangle. This pouch is made out
of a big rectangle. We made the rectangle and folded it and we stitched
it on both sides. Then before stitching it, we created the button holes. This also is very easy. I have dedicated one entire
video esson for this. You learn how to
create buttonholes, and as well as you'll
also learn how to modify them according to
the size of the button. So we'll create the rectangle, then create the button holes. After that, we're
going to stitch it in the form of a pouch, and then we're going
to stitch the buttons and your pouch will
be ready to use. The only thing that you
have to keep in mind that you have to select
the colors mindfully. I've selected pink because
pink is my favorite color, you can select as
for your reference. I'm using the same acrylic
yarn for this one. If you want, you can use cotton
if you have access to it. You can use a different yarn
and a different hook size. Also if you want the
size of the pouch, it'll vary depending upon
the yarn that you're using. But since this is your
first sure project, I would recommend not to
make changes in this. Do it as it is, do it with the same yarn and
book that I have used. And then from now on after doing this one
particular project, you can experiment with different yarns
and thread because I don't want you to
do a wrong selection of tread and yarn and
then get frustrated. So for now, stick to
the yarn and tread that we have used and create
this particular project, and I'll see you in the next
lesson with the tutorial.
25. L 25- Materials needed for the purse: In this lesson, I'll take you
through the material that you'll need in order to create your first crochet project. For this one, I'm using the
same thickness acrylic yarn. This is the sports fate yarn, I'm using the color pink. You can choose any color
as for your preference, following the
previous tutorial of mindful selection of colors
for your crochet projects. Use the same thickness, but you can choose any
color of your choice. I'm using pink because one pink is my favorite
color and also pink is color that symbolizes energy. With this, you're going to use the same crochet hook that is a three MM crochet hook that we have used for the
previous tutorials. You'll need sharp
pair of scissors. Tiptry needle for
weaving in the ends. This is a blunt point needle. The whole should be big enough to thread your yarn through it, and I'm using two
fancy wooden buttons. These are half inch buttons. You can use any size. Okay. So this is all this is all the
materials that you'll need. Now I'll see you in
the next lesson with the tutorial for making
your crochet pouch.
26. L 26- Crocheting the main body of the purse : Let us start with crocheting
the main body of the pouch. We're going to start with
crocheting a rectangle, and then we're going
to stitch it into shape and then we'll
create the buttons, and then the pouch
will be ready. To begin, I'm going to
start with chain 21. Do 21 chains. Here, I'm done 21 chains. Now we'll do first
row of single grochs. So doing single crochet, we'll not do the stick
in the first chain. Let's skip it and we'll
do a single crochet in the next chain and then do one single groche
in each chain across. We had a total of 21 chains, so you'll have a total of
20 single croch stitch. Make sure that you
do not skip any of the chains and you don't make
two stitches in any chain. You should have even stitch
count of 20 stitches. Most continue the same way
till the end of the chain. Here, the first row of
single grocer is done. Now you can pause the video, complete it till here and then come back and then
you can move on. Now for doing the second row, now all the other all the rows after this will be done in
half double groceo stitches. Only the first row was
done in single goch now we'll be continuing in
half double groceo switches. We have learned that
before that for doing a half double gco stitch, you need to do
chain two turning, and then turn the work and we have learned that this chain two will be counted
as the first stitch. But if you remember,
I mentioned that this has to be specified
in the pattern. Sometimes it is counted as a stitch and
sometimes it is not. So for the safe of this project, we'll not be counting
turning chains as a stitch. So we'll start
half double croche directly from the
first stitch here, and continue doing
half double croche in all the stitches. So we are not counting the
first chain two as a stitch. So we'll not be working the last stitch in the
chain as we usually do when we are doing half double
broche or double broche No. Now, just continue doing half double crochets
in each stitch across. We had 20 single crochets
in the first row, so you should have 20
half double grochs in every subsequent rows. For single croche also, we don't count the first
turning chain as a stitch. We're not going to be doing the last stitch in the
turning chain. We'll do the last stitch in
the single coche stitch. Here your first row of half
double cocci stitches ready. Now we'll just
continue the same way and we'll do around 24 rows. The rectangle should
measure 7 " in height. Keep doing these rows, till the piece measures 7 ". Again, I'll do two
chains. Turn the work. We're not founding these
two chains as a stitch. I'll start doing half double crucial directly from
the first stitch itself. Continue and do half double
crocus stitch in stitch. You need to keep
certain things in mind. First thing is you did not count the turning
chain as a stitch. So the last stitch
will not be worked in the turning chain and make sure that you do not
skip any of the stitches and you don't make two
stitches in the same stitch. At the end of every row, count the stitches so that
you know that you have 20 stitches in every
row because we need to even rectangle, otherwise, your pouch
will become very untidy. Here to the second row is done. Now continue the same way till
you have a length of 7 ". Now you can pause the
video here and then come back once you're done
with 7 " tangle, then I'll show you how
to do the button holes. I'll see you in the next
lesson for doing that. Complete this and
then move on to the next lesson where we can learn how to do the
button holes for
27. L 27- Making button holes: Here, I'm done with
seven inch rectangle. You can measure it measures 7 " in length and
around 4 " in width. If you want, you can increase
or decrease the size of the rectangle depending on the size of the
pouch that you want. But since this is
your first i budget, I would recommend not to
make any changes in this. Just make this as it is. Then from the next projects that you create and you can
start experimenting. We are done with this, now what we're going to do is
for finishing it, we are going to
hold it like this. And then we fold this as a flap, and then we're
going to stitch it on the size and you
can create a pouch. Now we need to close
it so for closure, we have to the wooden buttons. For the buttons,
I'm going to create two button holes here and here, that will be used for
closing the pouch. We'll be creating the button
holes in the next row. This has a total of 24 half double crochet
and one single coche. You don't need to
count the roles. You can just measure it once
it measures around 7 ", then you can come to this video and then you can do
the buttonholes. So how do in the button holes
keep the buttons ready with you because we are
going to have to measure the size of
the buttonholes? So for button holes, again, I'll do a single crochet row. For a single crochet, do a chain one for turning. Then do a single crochet in the first stitch and then
we'll do the button hole. For doing a button hole,
you're going to skip a few stitches here
and do chains instead. Let me do two chains. Then skip two single crochet. If you're doing the
chain single crochet, four chain skip four
single crochet and so on. I'm doing two because my
buttons are small and we'll skip two and do a single crochet in
the next stitch. Now, before going ahead, I'll try and pass
the button through the button hole to
see if it fits. It should pass through
it, I should fit in. It should not be very loose and it should not be very tight. So I think two is
enough for my button. Now, I'll continue the row
with single Crocious stitches. Now we have one, two, and three. In the second and third stitch, we created the button hole here also in the second last
and third last stitch, we're going to create
the button holes. So continue doing
single crocous stitches till the fourth last stitch. Four stitches should
be remaining. One, two, three, four stitches. For doing the second
one round hole, again, I'll do chain two. We're going to skip we don't
have to, we have to three. We have to do the single tit. No, two chains, we are going to skip these two stitches and do a single cot in
the last stitch. Here both your button
holes are ready. Now we're going to do
one more row of half double crochet on this, and then our main
piece will be ready. For half double crochet, two chain to turn the work, then start doing
half double crochet from the first stitch excel. Now, we have the
two chains here, so we're going to do
one half double crochet in each chain. One half double
croche each chain. Then again, start with half double crochet
in all the stitches. You're going to
repeat the same thing on the other end as well. When you reach the button hole, you're going to do
half double crochet in each chains that you
did for the button hole. Now, I did two chains because
my buttons are small. If you're using bigger buttons than you might need
bigger button holes, so your chain will increase the number of
chains will increase. Just make sure that you play the button holes evenly on
both sides of the pouch. Because I have one
stitch on this side and one stitch on the
side of the button hole. If you're leaving
two stitches here, then leave two stitches
on the other side also. Now, I bring the chain
again again and do half double croche one
half double crochet in for the chain is one and two. Then do one half double
croche in the last stitch. So here it is. You're done with the main body of the pouch. Now you can cut off the thread, leaving a four to five
inch long tail and tell you why we're
moving the tail because we need
to finish it off. So for finishing, you need a smaller longer tail so that
you can easily weave it in. Now, pull the thread through
this loop to finish it off. Our main body of
the pouch is ready. Now in the next lesson, we'll see how to
finish it and then how to stitch it into the
shape of the pouch. I'll see you in the next lesson.
28. L 28- Sewing the pouch: We're done with the
main rectangle. Now, let us see
how to finish it, and then we are
going to stitch it. Finishing, we need to finish off both these tails
that are hanging. Never cut off the
tails to finish it. Otherwise, the piece will get unraveled when
you're using it, so we will finish
it off properly. So thread the end
into your tap needle. And then we are going
to pass it through the stitches for
around one to 2 ". Don't pull it too tight. You should not
distort the shape. Done. Now, I'm going
to skip one stitch here and I'm going to pass it back in the
opposite direction. This is called zigzag weave in. This is the best way to weave in because even if we're
going to wash the pouch, these thread ends
won't come out. Now. Now I can cut the thread
very close to the work. So we have finished. We can see now you can't make
out where the thread was. Repeat the same thing with the starting tail
of yarn as well. For this, again,
we're going to pass it through a few stitches. Skip one stitch and come back
in the opposite direction. Then cut off the
thread close to the. Here the piece is
ready. It is finished. Now, we are going to stitch
it here on both sides. Take a f or 15 " long tail of the same yard set
it into the needle. Now we're not going to tie
knots as you would do for normal sewing because we
don't want it to look untidy. So we're going to start
stitching from this end only. So take the needle and pass
it through the stitches once. Pull the yarn till
the tail disappears. Now, pass it in the
opposite direction. And then again, come back. In the same direction
because we want the thread on this
side for stitching. There you go. Now,
for stitching, we are going to hold
the pouch like this. Leaving a small portion
for making the flap, you can hold it and see how
big you want the flap to be. It depends on what you'll
be using the pouch for. I'll think I'll be using
it for holding my cards. I think this big pocket is enough and this part
I'll use for flap. Then hold it to the side and just stitch it as you would
normally stitch any favor. Now, what we did for the
weaving in of both the ends, we're going to repeat
the same process to weave in the end of this as well that we
are using for stitching. I'm stitching on the
right side only. We are not going
to flip the work. We're going to be using this
side only as the right side. So I'm done with
the stitching now. I'll just tie a knot. And then we'll just weave this end in like we did
for the other two ends. I'll just pass it
through a few stitches. Now go in the
opposite direction. Just cut off the tread
pretty close to the work. Now repeat the same thing
with the other side also. So first, we are going to
secure the yarn to the piece. I'll just pass it
to the stitches. Make sure that is in
the straight lines. I'm going to start
stitching from here. When you are stitching, make
sure that you just stitch it through the last
stitch of the roof. You don't need to make it
very bulky other become i. So make sure that you take
a very part of it and just try to take only one
of the stitches at the end. So here the pouch is
stitched and it is ready. Now in the next
lesson, I'll show you how to stitch the buttons, and then your pouch
will be to use. I'll see you in the next lesson. Okay.
29. L 29- Adding buttons: Let us stage the buttons
to finish the pouch. I need the buttons here. So first, mark the
placement of the buttons. Take a small ten to 12 inch tail off the same yarn
treaded into your nill. Here I'm going to
place the button. Leave a long tail here around three to 4 " because
we're not going to we are going to tie a knot
in that yarn to finish it. Here. I have done a
criss cross stitch here. Now turn the pouch and ty three or four square
knots in these two tails. If you want to secure
it even further, you can just apply
a small dot of fabric glue on the knot so
that it does not open up. Now I'll just cut it,
leaving a small tail here. I will be on the inside
so won't matter. The first button is done. You pat the same thing for
the second button. Okay. So we'll just measure the second button placement
with the first one. I'm going to put it here, the same gap on both sides, and it should be match
it with the row. There you go. Do it the same way as you
did the first button. Turn it and Tots. A. There you go. The buttons are st. You
can easily close it. You pouch is ready. You can use it for
holding your cards or for holding money or for
any small thing that you own. It is a nice addition
to your purse. You can easily keep it in your purse if you want
to can add a loop to this and then you can attach it on the outside of any bag. It can be used for holding lip gloss or any other
such small item. This is all for this
particular tutorial. Now I'll see you in
the next lesson.
30. Day 4- L 30- Overview of working in rounds: Today, we'll see how
to crochet in rounds. We have already learned
how to crochet in rows and we have done a
project as well. In this module, we'll see
how to crochet in rounds. This is a round done
with Simlecco stitches. This is a round done with
double croc stitches. We're going to cover
on these two stitches. Half double croc and ripple croc worked in more the same way, so you don't need to
practice for that because we have already
practiced the stitches. Working in rounds, we just
need to know the technique. Only the placement of the
stitches is different. The stitches work
exactly the same way as we work for working in rows. These are the two that
we're going to learn today, and we're also going to cover the second project that will be a coaster that will be
done by working in rounds. We'll begin with a
single crochet round and then move on to a
double crochet round. This is how these
two look, as you can see in the
single crochve done, one, two, three,
and four rounds. Four rounds will make
a smaller circle, and this is the double crochet, one, two, and three rounds. So you can see the
size difference. The three rounds
of double crochet is almost double the size of four rounds of
singles stitches. This technique is usually used for making single
cc, you can use. This can be shaped
and you can make walls and different
cylindrical shapes, oval shapes and different shapes for this to create
different types of amgomes like bears or dragons or whatever
you feel like doing. This is a very good
technique to learn if you want to go into amgmes also It can be used for
creating mandalas and such. This one here is
usually used for creating big circles like doing or table mats or table runners organs
and things like that. You can also use
this to create gans. Now, if you do a combination of symble crochet double crochs, triple crochet, half
double and chain, then you can come up
with lacy mandalas. You can create
different coasters using a combination of stitches. Here is a example of
that. This is a small do. This is. This is double broche, this is double broche cluster. These are all intermediate
level stitches that you'll learn in your way
along the journey. These are chain stitches.
This is how you create different lacy textures by combining the different
stitches that you have learned. Right now we are just
doing the basics. Once you get a hang of this, then you can experiment with the combination of
different stitches to create c mandala and
other different projects. Let us begin with the working of single crochets in round that we'll do in the next
leon. I'll see you there.
31. L 31- Single crochets in rounds: In this lesson, we'll see how to do single crocus
stitches in rounds. As you can see, it is
not a perfect round, it actually makes a hexagon. The reason is that
for working in rounds for single croco we usually
work in multiples of six. I'll shortly tell you how
you're supposed to do that. Since you are increasing
in multiples of six, you have six points
where you increase, so you get a hexagon
instead of a circle. So don't worry about that
because once you enlarge it once you'll get
a bigger circle then the hexagon will disappear, and turn in somewhat
a circle only. So let's see how to do this. For working in rounds, we need to create
a central circle. Before doing the central ring, I'm going to do chain four. I'll start with the slip stitch. To chain four, one, two, three, and four. Now we have to join these
four chains into a ring. Before doing that, I'll
go in the first chain. We'll skip the three chain, we'll go in the first chain
and do a slip stitch. If you remember slip stitches, grabbing the yarn,
pulling a loop, and then pulling the front loop on the hook through the
back loop on the Yes. Here we have created a ring. If you'll just pull it a little, you'll see that there is a
night gap here in between. Now we're going to place all the stitches for the
first round in this gap. We are doing single croche
I'll not do a chain. I'll just directly start with
the single croche stitches. Insert the hook in the ring. Grab the pull up a loop. Now we have two
loops on the hook. Now for completing
the single crochet, we'll grab the iron again and pull it through
both the loops. This is your first
single croche the round. Now the second croche
second single crochet is again going to be
placed in the same place. Inside the hook again
in the ring, grab the, pull up a loop, grab the again, and pull through both the loop. The single croche stitch is done exactly the same as
we did for the rose. Only the stitch placement vary. Now this is two single croche
for the third one again, go in the same
place in the ring. Grab the yarn and complete
the single porch. This is three D one more is four, five and six. For doing a flat
single crochet ring, we usually start with
six single crochet. It depends on the
pattern or whatever you are trying to create
depending on the project. You can increase or decrease
the number of stitches here, but for now for this
particular sample, we are going to do six in the first row Now we're
going to finish the round. Now we have six single glochs here, we're going to finish it. Finishing, we'll
do a slip stitch in the first stage that we do. This was the first
single groche. Go in the first single goch
and do a slip stitch here. For a slip stitch, grab
the ar, pull up a loop. Now, pull the second loop on the hook through the
first loop like this. So here, your first
round is complete. Now, as I mentioned before, that we are going to be
increasing in multiples of six. Here we had six single crochet and the next one, we're
going to have 12. In order to do 12
single crochet, we're going to do
increase in every stitch. By increase, I mean
we're going to do two single croche stitches
in each stitch for all six. Double of six is 12, you'll get 12 single crochs
in the second round. This time for starting, I'll start with a chain. We'll not count
this as a stitch. Now go in the first stitch
and do one single crochet. Now we have to
increase, so we'll do one more single grose
in the same stage. Now, repeat the same thing in
the second stitch as well. In the second stitch, do
one single groche again, go in the same
stitch, do one more. This gives us four
single grochs. Now again, do two single
crochs in the next stage. One and two. Then again, two single
crochs in the next stage. Again, two in the next stage. Now we have come to
the last stitch. We'll do two in this
stitch as well. Now we have a total of 12
single coco stitches, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12. Now to finish this round again, we're going to do a slip stage in the first stage that
we did in this round. This is the first stage
that we did in the round. Insert the hook in the
stitch, pull up a loop, and pull the first loop through the second loop like this
to finish the slip stage. With this, we're done
with the second round. Now in the third, again, we're going to increase
with a multiple of six. Here we had 12. In the next one, we are going to have 18. In order to do 18, again, I'm going to
start with a chain one. This one will not be
counted as a stitch. Now we're going to increase in every alternate
alternate stitches. Go in the first stitch,
do one single crochet. Now in the next one,
you have to increase, do two single crochets
in the next stage. Now again, do one single
croche in the next stage. Again, two in the next one. Keep repeating this
pattern till the end. Again, one stitch in the
next two in the next. Again, one, and then two
stitches in the next. Again, one, and then two
stitches in the next. Again one and then
two in the stitch. So now we have
completed round three. Now to finish it, again, I'm going to do a slip stitch in the first stitch that
we made in this round. Now we have 18. Now we have to increase again
in the multiples of six. In the next one,
you're going to have a total of 24 stitches. Here we increase in
every alternate stitch, that is the increase in
every second stitch. In the next round, we're going to increase in
every third stitch. What I mean by that is, we'll start with the chain one, which will not be
counted as a stitch. We'll do one single groch
in first two stitches. We're going to
increase in the third, do two single groche. Now again, one single groche
in the next two stitches, then increase in the next. Again, one single groche in next two stitches and
increase in the next. And increase in the next. Again, one crochet in
the next two stitches, then increase in the next. Again, one crochet in
next two stitches, then increase in the next. Now, to finish the row again, finishing the round again, go in the first stitch that
we made and do a slip stitch. Here we are done
with four rounds. So now you might be able
to see the pattern. First one, we did six stitches. In the next one, we
increased in every stitch, so we had a total
of 12 stitches. In the next one, we increased in every second
stitch and we had a total of 18 single
croch In the next one, we increase in
every third stitch. We have a total of 24. You just keep on
repeating this pattern. Here, we increase in
every third stick. In the next one, we're going to increase in every fourth stitch. Then in the next round, we're going to increase in
every fifth stitch and so on. You'll get multiples
of six like six, 12, and 18, and 24. Then in the next one,
you'll get 30 stitches in next one, you'll have 36. Then in the next one,
you'll have 42 and so on. So you'll keep on having
multiple six in every round. This is how you do a
single crochet round. Double crochet round is more or less done
in the same way, only the number of stitch
and the stitch count vary. So we'll see how to do a double crochet circle in the next.
32. L 32- Double crochets in rounds: We learned how to do a
single crochet round in the previous lesson. Now we will see how to do
a double crochet round. The technique is more
or less the same. We're going to start
the same way doing chain force and come
joining it to former ring, and the stitch
count here varies. For single crochet, we
go by multiples of six. For double crochet, we
go by multiples of 12. Here we are going to have 12 double crochets in
the first round, 24 in the next round, then 36 in the next round. We're going to keep
on increasing by 12. The increase is exactly the same as we did for
single grochs. First one, we'll have 12. The second one we will
increase in every stitch. When I say increase, we'll be working two stitches
in each stitch. In the next one, we're going to increase in every second stitch, we'll do one stitch in the first and we'll
do two in the next, again one in the first, then two in the next, like that, we'll complete the round. The next one, we're going to increase in every third stitch, so we're going to do
one double croche in two stitches and two in the next again one one in the next two and two
in the next like that. We'll keep on increasing
in the same pattern. I'll just show you the
first three rounds and then you can easily make
out how to do the rest. So for starting,
we'll just start with chain four and join
it to form a ring, one, two, three, four, joining the same as we
did for single crochet. To a slip stage in
the first chain. If you pull it,
you'll see the gap. Here, you just have to make sure that you make the
stitches in the gap. Don't go in any of these
four chains that you made. Otherwise, it will be untidy. Now for starting double broche, we always start
with chain three, do chain three, and we're going to count this
as the first stitch. This will be our first
stitch and we need a total of 12 double
brochures in the round. So we're going to do 11
more stitches and the first three included will make
12 double broche stitches. So we'll just do a over, insert the hook in the ring, pull up a loop and then complete
the double groce stage. This is your first stage.
Again, repeat the same thing. The second stage three. Keep on doing this till you have a total of 11 double
croche stitches. Then the first t
three included will make a total of 12 stitches
for the first round. Here, we're done with total of 11 double crochets
and the first chain three will be your first stitch. We have to 12 stitches
in this round. Now to complete or
to finish the round. We'll do the same thing as
we did for a single crochet. We are going to
do a slip stitch. This time we'll do
the slip stitch in the third chain of the first chain three
that we made for turning. This is one, two, you can see the small, so you can count. This is one, this is two,
and this is the third one. I'll go in the third stitch. And slip stitch. With this, our round one is complete. Now for round two, we are going to increase in every stitch. We'll have two double crochets in each of these
12 double crochet. We'll start again
with chain three. This will be your first stitch. We'll do the first
double crochet in the same place as
we did the chain. This is our first
increase and go in the next stitch to
two double crochets. Again, two double crochets
in the next stitch. Just keep doing two double
perch in each stitch around. We have 12 stitches
in the first round. So in this, we have
increased in every stitch. We'll have double 12
that is 24 stitches. Right. The last stitch, again, do two double
poco stitches. Now finish the round same way as we did for the first one, two or slip stitch in the third chain of the first chain three
that we did for turn. We're done with round two. Now for round three,
we are going to increase in every second stitch. We'll start with chain three. This will be your first stitch. Our first stitch is
done. We have to increase in second stitch. I'm going to do in
the second stitch and do two double coco. Just keep repeating this
pattern all around. One, then two, then again, one stitch in the next
and two in the next. Again, one double crochet in the next and two double
croche in the next. Gain one, and then
two in the next. Just keep doing this
all the way around and we'll be done with
the third round. I'm done with the pattern now to finish off
the round, again, I'm going to do a slip stage in the third chain of the first chain three that
we'll do for turning. This is what your
circle will look like. Now. This was the first one where
we did 12 double coches. Then we increase in every round. We got a total of 24 stitches. In the next one, we did increase in every
alternate stitch that is in every second stitch. We had a role of 36 stitches. Now in the next one, we're going to increase in
every third stitch. Then in the next
one, you're going to increase in every fourth
stitch and so on. This is the pattern that you'll follow for a
double broche round. For single crochet, we go by multiples of six
F double crochet, we go by multiples of 12. This is just a general
rule to get a flat circle. It will actually depend on the pattern that
you want to do, the project that you want to do. The stage count may vary, but this is just the
general guideline. This is how you'll do this. Practice both the
single crochet and the double crochet circles
as much as you need, make a bigger circle or make
multiple smaller circles, whatever you feel like doing practice then in
the next lesson, we'll see how to do
pretty circular coaster. And by mindfully selecting
the colors of basic. So I'll see you in the next for.
33. L 33- Coaster project introduction: Now we have learned
how to work in rounds, so it is time to do our first
project working in rounds. This is what you'll be doing. This is a coaster
that is done in rounds and the last show
is done with picks. We have learned how
to do picks as well. This coaster, as you can see, is done in rounds
of double croch. We practiced how to do double
croche stitches in round. We'll go by multiples of 12. We'll have 12 stitches
in the first one, then 24 and 46 and then 48. The last round is going to
be slightly tricky because here we have to increase as well as we have
to do Ps also. So but don't worry. You can follow the
video tutorial step by step and mutate
it very easily. So this is the project. And before we begin with
the actual project, I'll take you through the materials that you need
in order to the project. So I'll see you in
the next lesson with the material
list. I'll you there.
34. L 34- Materials needed for coaster: Okay. Before we begin
with the tutorial, let us see the tools
and materials that you'll need in order
to create a poster. I'm using the same
thickness tread. This is a sports
weight size two yarn. This is again acrylic, if you want to even use cotton. But for this tutorial, I'm just going to use this. I've chosen yellow
color mind play because I want my table
to look happy and joyful. Yellow color represents
happiness and energy. That is why I've chosen
this bright color. With this, you'll need a
crochet hook three MM proche, the same one that we
used for practice. Then you'll need sharper of sisors for cutting off the tread and debating al for weaving in the ends for
finishing off your poster. This is all the tools and
materials that you'll need to create this
poster on your own. In the next lesson
now we'll see how to actually crocre the
poster. I'll see you where
35. L 35- Inner 3 rounds of the coaster: Okay. Let us begin with
the ching of the coaster. This is the same
technique that we had learned in the
previous lessons. We're going to be
working in rounds. As we learned that
we're going to start with a central
ring, again, I'm going to start with
a ring of four chains, do a slip knot first and then two four chains Now we're going to join these
chains to form a ring. I'm going to do a slip
stitch in the first chain. Go in the first chain, grab the yarn and pull it through
both the lobes like this. Now you have a chain. This is the central
gap. Make sure that you work in the
central gap only. Don't work in one of the chains. Otherwise, it will
become slightly untidy. So locate the central gap here, and then we're going
to work in this. Now we are going to do rounds
of double crocus stitches, so we'll be doing
chain three first. This first chain three
will be counted as the first double grocustitch
and we're going to do 11 more double groces to
complete the first row. So start doing double
grocus stitches in the central ring. I'm going to do a total of 11 double grocous stitches here. Keep counting as you go, we need total 11
double Groce stitches. Then including the
first chain pre, we'll have a total
of 12 stitches. Let us count 123 456-789-1011. I'm done with 11 stitches. Now to complete the round, you're going to do a slip stitch in these first three chains, you're going to go
in the top chain here and we'll do a slip stitch. This, your first
round is complete. Now for the second round, we need to have a
total of 24 stitches. We're going to increase
in every stitch. That is, we're going to do
two stitches in every stitch. We'll start again
with chain three. This will be counted
as the first stitch. We're going to go in this gap here because we need two
stitches in the same stitch. We'll do one double
crochet stitch in the same place where
we did the chain three. Now, continue doing
two double crochets in each of the stitches around. We'll go in the
first one now and do two double crochets
in the same stitch. Again, two double crochets
in the same stage. Keep repeating this
two double crochet in each of the stitches. Since we had a total of 12 stitches in the
previous row and round, and here we are going to
do two in every stitch. We'll have a total
of 24 stitches. If you remember when we are
doing a double crochet round, we usually go by
multiples of 12. The first one had 12 stitches. The second one will have 24. The third one will have 36, and the next one is going
to have 48 stitches. Just continue making two
double croche stitch. I'm going a little fast so you can just pause
the video wherever and whenever you like and then complete the stitches and
then come back to the video. We have already
learned the stitches. That is why I'm
going a little fast. Here, I'm done with 24 stitches. Now to complete the round again, I'm going to do a slip
stitch in the stop third chain of the first
three that we made. With this, our second
round is complete. Now for the third
round, if you remember, we did increase in
every alternate stitch. Again, I'm going to
start with chain three. Now, we need to increase
in the next stitch. This stitch is done. Now go in the next stitch and do
two double groc stitches. Then one stitch in
the next stitch. Then again, two in the next one. Again, one in the next
ditch and two in the next. Just keep repeating the
same pattern all around. Just keep repeating
the same thing, one stitch in the next stitch
and two in the next one. Keep increasing in
every alternate stitch. Now, I'm just going to
pause the video here. I'm going to finish
the round and then come back to show you
how to finish it. Here I am on the stitch
to do stitches in this. Now to finish of the round, I'm just going to
do a slip stitch in the third chain of
the first chain three that we made
in this round. Yeah, we're done with the first three rounds
of our coaster. Now in the next lesson, we'll see how to do
the outermost round, the fourth round
of double coche. We're going to do
that with PCOS. We've already learned
how to do PicoS as well, but again, I'll show you
there in the next lesson. I'll see you in the
next lesson with the last round of
the coaster. Okay.
36. L 36- Crocheting the last round with picots: We are done with the
first three rounds. We did 12 double croche
in the first round, 24, and then in 36
in the last one. If you remember that when we are doing double crochet rounds, we increase with
multiples of two. So the first one had 12. In the second one, we
increased in every stitch, so we had a total
of 24 stitches. In the next one, we increased
in every second stitch. We did one double
croc one stitch, then two in the second, then
one, then two in the second. Like that we'll go
all the way around, so we'll have a total
of 36 stitches. Now in the next
one, we're going to increase in every third stitch. Here we are increased
in every second stitch. In the next one, we're going to increase in every third stitch. We'll start with chain three. And we're going to do
one double crochet each in the next two stitches. This is the first
double croche stage, we'll count this as
the first stitch. Do one more double crochet
in the next stitch. Here we have one double crochet each in next two stitches. Now before we move to the next stage, we're
going to do a pico. Do chain three, and you can see these are the three
chains and these are the two vertical bars here, we're going to go under these 2 bars and
do a slip stitch. Pick is done, now we're going to do two double crochets
in the next stitch. One, two, again, we're
going to do a pickle. Chain three and a slip
stitch under these 2 bars. Again, one double crochet
each in next two stitches. Then Pico three chain, and then slip stitch. This will make your pico Then two double crochets again
in the next stitch. To double crochets
in the next stitch. Then again, pico. Then one double crochet in
each of the next two stitches. Again, a pico. Then two double crochets
in the next stitch. Then again, a pick. Basically, what we are doing
is we are increasing in every third stitch
and we're doing a pico after every two stitches. We did the first
two, then we did a pick the next two in the
same stitch, then a pick. The next two in the next
two stitches, again a pick. Then again, next two double croch stitches in
the next stitch, again a p. This is the pattern that you'll
keep on repeating. Here we have done two stitches in the same stitch,
we did a pick. Now we're going to
do one one stitch in the next two
stitches again a P. Keep on repeating
this pattern all the way around So again, we're going to do
one double crochet each in the next two stitches. Then pico. Then again, two double
crochets in the next stitch. Then again, do a pico. Now, repeat this
all the way around. I'm going to pause the video
here, complete my round, and then I'll come back to show you how to finish this round. So finish the round
and then again play the video to come back
to see how to finish it. I'm almost done with the round. Now in the last stitch. You're going to finish with two double coches in
the last stitch. Then a pick Now to
finish of the round, again, we'll do a slip stitch in the third chain of the first
chain tree that we made. So here your coaster is done. Now in the next lesson,
we'll see how to finish it so that it is ready
for use. So I'll see
37. L 37- Finishing the coaster: For finishing off the coaster, we are going to
cut off the yarn, leaving a small six to 7 "
tail for finishing it off. Then pull this loop
through to secure the end. Now we are going
to finish it the same way as we did for
the previous project, we are going to tread for the ends one by one in
your tips you need, and we're going to pass it
through a few stitches. Going in a zigzag manner. Go in one direction,
and then skip one of the stitches
and then come back in the opposite direction. Now just cut off the thread
very close to the work. Repeat the same thing with the starting tail
of yarn as well. Now for the central one, I'm just going to go one time around the
central stitches. That would be enough. Now, cut it off close to the work. Here, your coaster is ready. This was your second project
for working in rounds. I've done this one in acrylic. You can do it in cotton
as well if you want, and also you can pick different
color as for your choice. This is, this is the second project that
was done in rounds. This is all for this lesson. I'll see you in the next.
38. L 38- 5 Tips and tricks to improve your crochet: Welcome to the final day of my absolute big crochet
course for mindfulness. Today I'll share with you five tips and tricks
that will help you enhance your crocheting
experience and improve your projects.
Let's dive in. Tip number one, blocking
your crochet project. Blocking is a method of setting and shaping
your crochet projects. It helps smooth out
the stitches and give your crochet project
a more polished look. To block, you just
need to dampen your crochet project
in steam or in water. Then gently shape it to
the desired dimensions, and then just let
it dry complete. Blocking can be done by
different methods and different fibers
respond differently to all these techniques. You can read out
my block that is provided in the next
session where I discuss five different methods
of blocking and which fiber responds well to
which of these techniques. Blocking can truly enhance the appearance of
your other creation. Tip number two, utilizing
stitch markers. Stitch markers are
invaluable tools that help you keep
track of stitches, especially for a more
complex project. They can help you keep the
track of beginning and end of the rounds to
help you avoid mistakes. A simple safety pin or a scrap an in contrasting color can
be used as a stitch marker, or you can invest in a set of good quality stitch markers made specifically for brochures. If you want to read more about stitch markers that
uses and the benefits, then you can read my block post the link for which I have
provided in the next lesson. Tip number three,
meditative stitch counting. Stitch counting need
not be a chore. It can be a meditative
process in itself. Take a moment to pause after each count and gently acknowledge the
presence of the stitch. With each count, let go of any
distraction that you might have and totally immerse yourself in the rhythm
of your poster project. Stage by stage, find
piece in the process. Tip number four, experiment with different yarns and hooks. Don't be afraid to explore
different yarn weights, textures, and fibers
as well as hook sizes. Each combination creates a
unique fabric and experience. Use a bulky yarn
for a quick project or a finer yarn for a
detailed delicate work. Remember, experimentation
is the key to explore what
works best for you. Tip number five, take
breaks and stretch. Croching for longer
periods of time can lead to hand
fatigue and tension. Remember to take breaks and stretch your
hands and wrists. Simple exercises like
wrist rotations and finger stretching
can help you relax and can keep you crocheting
comfortably for longer. So here are the five tips and tricks that can enhance
your crochet journey. Remember, crochet is
not just a hobby, but it is a mindful
practice that will help you find joy and
relaxation in your life. So keep stitching,
keep practicing, and more importantly, keep
finding peace in every op. Now, in the next lesson, I'll show you how to read a crochet pattern.
I'll see you there.
39. L 39- Summary: Okay. So with this,
you have come to the end of day five of our
five day crochet course. I hope you enjoyed
the tutorials and I hope that this got you started on your crocheting journey. So before you sign
out of the class, there are a few things that
I would like you to do. The first thing is you have made two different projects
in these five days. The first one was the mini purse and the second one
was the coaster. I request you to click pictures of the project
that you have created and submit it using the submit class project button so that me and the fellow croch the fellow
students who are taking the class with you can see what you have done
and get inspired. Also, please take a
few minutes to give a review using the reviews
button below the glass. I'll be more than happy to
see how you felt taking this five day course and how this journey
had been for you. So this is all from my side. I hope you enjoyed
it. Stay tuned. And the journey has just begun. It has not ended here. Feel free to take more of my classes on
Skillshare platform. There are a few more
classes where you can find simple projects, see if those interest you. And I have got you started on the journey with reading
of patterns as well. So I hope you make a lot and lot of different
broche projects, and I hope that this
particular course brings in the transformation
that I was targeting for. So thank you so much for staying with the class
and thank you so much for being with me for all these five days.
Thank you so much. Happy crochet. Bye bye. Okay.
Natasha Jonathan, Crochet artist| Creator| Designer| tutor
