5- All Sewing Patterns Start like this. . | Marcy Newman | Skillshare

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5- All Sewing Patterns Start like this. .

teacher avatar Marcy Newman, SewwwMuchMore!

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Take Measurements


    • 3.

      Series of Blocks


    • 4.

      Slash and Spread


    • 5.

      Pant Play


    • 6.

      Chop Chop/Conclusion


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About This Class

All Sewing Patterns Start like This: (Pattern Drafting Basics Theory)- Background information of the Slash and Spread method shows the development of pattern pieces deepening your understanding and may help you feel more inclined to change a feature of a pattern you're making or helping you to Up Cycle  clothes you find or already have. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Marcy Newman



Sewing has been my passion for most of my life. After taking Fashion Design and learning Couture techniques, Teaching was the next best thing! I love to encourage people to find the joy I found in making clothes or Household items, and thereby finding the Zen moments when you're immersed in a project. It's a valuable Life Skill, even if it's just for hemming your jeans. Happy Sewing! 

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Level: Beginner

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1. Welcome! : Hi there. My name is Marcy. When I was a little girl, I used to love the pages in the coloring books that made you count by numbers and join the dots to reveal a picture. Then years later, when I was a fashion designer, I realized when we started pattern-making, that this was exactly the same thing. The reason I'm doing this video is because I believe that having knowledge of the basic slash and spread method and the development of patterns as they go along from the basic bodice to address, for example, that this kind of information will help you if you come across certain things in a pattern that you're not really sure that you want in it. And then you'll be able to know that you can change it or how you can change it. So let's get started. 2. Take Measurements: Pattern drafting, start with a standard set of measurement. If you're drafting for the industry. The example seen here shows the standard chart used for a child aged two to seven years of age. Beside it shows the body shape that corresponds to those measurements. If you are going to create your own set of blocks, you would follow what guide that instructs you to measure yourself and add IV that allowed the garment can move on your body. These block are basically like your second skin. The first step is that using a metal square ruler, you're told which direction to draw a square and where to place the first of 0 for the BOD is block, as seen on this slide. 0 Q1 is the measurement of your back from a particular bone in your neck to your waist. And adding one and a quarter centimeters of ease, that point becomes number 1. From here, you square across. You continue to build upon them, marking points in squaring across to finally reveal the front and back body joined at the side. See, these pieces now need to be traced separately to reveal the individual front and back block. The block is then traced and seam allowances added. This original block must be tested in fabric, which is called making a Muslim. And any adjustments or taken back to reshape the original. Now that it reflects your actual body, it will be made in a manila board and can be used to make any pattern pieces that you desire, such as shirt, dresses, jacket, jump, fifth, et cetera. The next video explains the actual progression, a blog development. 3. Series of Blocks: When starting to draft patterns, it's natural to begin with the bodice block. The first stage shows that the front and back are joined at the side seams. They will need to be separated later and tested for accuracy before being made into single blocks, I circled the part that is later used to build the sleeve block. The horseshoe shape is called the arm psi. Using measurements within the sleeve block is made because the sleeve is built using the measurements from the bodice. Sleeves are not interchangeable from one pattern to another. The points on the left image marked BP and FP, or the pitch points, which are actually the places where the notches are. You can see in the right image that they now sit at number five and number two on the sleeve block. To differentiate between the back and front pieces, there are always two notches on back pieces and one on front pieces. For your interest. I've next included an image that shows you how to measure a curve. Measuring tape must be held standing up to get an accurate measurement. Building on these blocks, it's natural to see that to make a dress, you have to first draft the skirt block and combine them at the waist, true, ing the side seam as seen in red, to make it a smooth line. After you have the dress block, you can then create a jacket block. The pant block can be done by itself. But if you want a jumpsuit, then you would use the bodice block and the pant block. A code block will be made from the jacket block. The difference between the dress and the jacket is adding extra room. And a coat will also require more room, as it may be, that you will wear a jacket under a coat. 4. Slash and Spread: Now the real fun begins. The true creative process of fashion design uses to basic smash and spread method. The basic block that I've shown you are the building blocks for the inner designer to be able to play with pieces by tracing them onto paper and cutting them up this way and back. I'm starting with the bell fleet. You can see that lines are drawn from the head of this leads to the Him. And without being disconnected, the pieces are spread out sideways to add former through the sleeve middle, and the bottom. It isn't a Swede that you see often. And I was thinking that I would probably tell you that it was mostly used for costumes. But yesterday when I was watching Coronation Street, I saw that cutest little blue jean jacket on an actor with the bell of fleet. Our last downsized above the wrist, and it was so adorable. The rest of the jacket was kept quite simple. It has no lapel. It had just a neck line with the facing, which allowed the bell sleeves to become the main feature. Well-done. I even attempted to draw it for you to show you. It looked like this. This was drawn by me, placed in Adobe Illustrator, and then I played around with it so that it would look presentable. I hope it does. And it was quite fun to do. Next is the basic skirt, the A-line skirt and the pencil skirt only have the lines of the side fees changed. A pleated skirt have fabric added in the middle, provide room to fold the fabric to make a creep. If the fabric shows the XF on the top of the fabric, It's called a box. And if you fold it and bring the fabric can meet in the middle, but the fabric stays underneath. It's called an inverted plate. Then of course, as always, the final pieces made with the seam allowance and the notches and other markings such as grain line, how many pieces to cut, the name of the piece, and who it might be for. For example, if you're working for yourself, you would put your name on it or otherwise the pattern would be made for maybe for manufacturing. Next, I'm showing you the flared skirt that applies the flash and spread method as the pieces are cut up and not separated at the top, but just swung over as much as you like. The distance between the pieces remain the same. And the new piece is made with seam allowance. Meet me in the next video where I'll use the flash and spread method. And we will play with Pat. 5. Pant Play : Using the same slash and spread method with pants, I'm showing how we get pleats in the front of pants. It may not be fashionable these days to wear pants like this. But everything comes back again as we witnessed with the belt sleep in the previous section. Here, the lines are drawn from the dark to the bottom and parallel to it, again, cut open to the bottom, not separated, but just spread the desired depth of your pleat. Notches are placed at the original dark spot and at the other point after the spread. And the same for the other plate. The pieces traced again and seam allowance is added. Now we're looking at the side seam or inseam pocket. It's a pretty simple pocket that is good for a patient that has enough room to put your hand in. It wouldn't be appropriate for a pant that is skin tight. Better for a pan with a drawstring or elasto size waste. Starting in the top left, you'll notice there are three different shapes of pockets that you might find if you could see right through the pant in my images, I'm using the design of number 2 because the depth of pocket is built right into the design. Right below it in gray, you see how the pant pocket is sewn to the side seam on both the front and the back piece. Then the front and back are sewn together at the side seam going around the pocket and down to the bottom. Now, if you were using pocket one or three, you would have to add another step of sowing to create the depth of pocket as seen in the smaller images, the extra seam is in red. In my opinion, it's just a bad design. Where's the advantage to having to add an extra step of sewing? So if you buy a pattern that you find this pattern piece in, check the instructions to see if you have to add the extra sewing. Because maybe I'm wrong. There's a different way. And go ahead and change the design to the other one. Just make sure your hand fits comfortably into the place where the opening is. And if you want a deeper pocket, you can make that two. Next, I'm showing you the standard blue jean pocket, actually called the hip front pocket. From the left image, image, you see the original pant block and right beside it, the traced one on a piece of paper. Then I show you that any design can be made in his pocket, a straight line or the curved line. Basically, you cut away the shape that you want the front of your pant to look like. Then you create your pocket facing, uh, facing on any piece, mirrors the shape of the garment and is sewn on the outside and flipped inside. You'll see them on Neck lines. Sometimes the top of a pants or skirt has a facing instead of a waist band and arm holes without sleeves have to be faced. Then you have to replace the bit you cut away in this pant. So you fill it with the same shape around the bottom as the facing, a basic pocket shape. You can fill that in with anything you like, a different color of printed fabric, whatever you like, you are the designer. Meet me in the last video where I will show you that as well as slash and spreading pieces, you create a whole different look as soon as you just chop pieces up into different shapes. See you there. 6. Chop Chop/Conclusion: Another simple way to design is to cut the original pieces up to create visual interests, contrast and texture. In this video, I've taken a simple bodice front and made a variety of different look. I wish I had the computer to play with when I was in school. I'm just learning Adobe Illustrator. And this was so fun and an easy way to instantly see the effects of changing simple lines. The process would be the same as we've seen all along. You would trace the original block, draw the line using a tracing. We'll transfer each new piece to another paper and add seam allowance, notches and marking. Yoke there a common way to add interest to a garment. You'll see them on the back of almost every man's shirt. The upper portion has been divided. I think it must be for a more comfortable fit for men. I don't actually remember discussing why it is that it's so common. You can see here a simple yoke at the top of her skirt. Just that line being sown and top stitched adds a whole new look to the skirt. Then the bottom can be slashed and spread to give a bit of flow to the skirt. And the last one on the right is really fun. It can be seen on wedding gown from tons. Then I'm showing you the princess line, which I talked about in the understanding patterns video that I recently did. The simple division of the body into three pieces. Flatter any woman of any size. The line draws your eye downward for one thing. But also this is a fitted shape that goes over the buffer from under the arm or from the shoulder. When it from under the arm, it fits your body like a glove. And from the shoulder it'll be a little less fitted. It can then follow the curves of your hip. But if you're a larger woman and want to hide the lower half, the bottom can be slashed and spread, which will cover everything. And it's very feminine and flattering. This is my favorite design. Well, that concludes this video. I was prompted to make this video after my experience of taking pattern drafting in school because I didn't really enjoy it when I was doing it. But after I finished, I realized how much better my sewing experience was because I really understood the pieces. And so that's what I hope I've instilled in you, is a little bit of understanding. It kind of demystifies the process of what p is and why it's there and that kind of thing. So I also have done a fourth video already that's called sewing without reading a pattern. And that was prompted by the questions I used to have by student that was going to teach me how to read a pattern. And I realized that the method that I learned to so within fashion design, where we made samples of portions of the garment and put them in a book, was the best way to teach. So for seven years, four semesters a year, I taught that process in high school, night classes, and people really enjoyed it. So I would go happy to find Skillshare to instill the knowledge nowadays by video. So please check that out. Sewing without reading a pattern. Actually the guts going to be a whole theory. The first phase of sewing without reading a pattern was the first things that you're going to do after you finish cutting your pieces out. And of course, each piece has to be treated. Lots of things out to be done to it before the garment is sewn together at the theme. So the first thing you do if you're working on a dress or a top that's got around the neck or square neck line is that you faced it, client. So I teach you that. And then I peek too dark because that's also something that every piece you have to do the dark before you saw everything together. And the next process would be preached and talk. So that's part of it. And then the second part of sewing without reading a pattern, I'm going to be doing quite soon. And it's all about the pocket. So in this video you saw the side seam pocket and the front hip pocket. And that's what I'm going to show you in samples in the next video that I'm going without reading a pattern. Finally, I would just like to say that recently somebody reviewed this video and they said that they really enjoyed it. But I should add some color because all of my slides were black and white. And so that actually prompted me to redo the whole video using Adobe Illustrator. And I just learned so much about Adobe Illustrator. And I've added so much color. So I really hope you'll like the new and improved video and you will review it for me because I always I tried to pick all the information in people give me and I would say majority of the time, people give you constructive criticism with help prep, make videos, better, go. I appreciate it chromic, and I'm not afraid of what it is. You have to say. Thank you. Happy It's always be improved.