Transcripts
1. WELCOME: Hey everyone, I hope you're
having a fantastic day. In this course,
you're going to learn the absolute basics of
how to use blender. No, not that blender,
I mean blender, the open source, powerful, and completely free
three D application, whether you just want to create your own custom
three D models or do photorealistic
architectural visualizations, create assets for video games, or get into three D printing, or even do full blown
feature length movies. Blender is a fantastic
program for all of that, so it is absolutely
worth getting into. By the end of this
course, you will be comfortable using Blender. You'll know how to set up
your own three D scenes, create your own three D
models and animations, and how to render them out
either into still images or animation movie files that you can then share with
friends or family, or them judged by random
strangers on the Internet. The course is broken down into a number of different sections, each with individual
small byte sized lessons. First, we're going to
cover the absolute basics, how to get blender,
get it set up, how to create three D
scenes, move objects around, set up cameras, and how to render that out into
a simple still image. Once you're comfortable
with all of that, we're going to then dive into the three D modeling
part and talk about how you can create your own custom three D
models in blender. After that, to make our models look a little bit less naked, we're going to talk
about materials and how to assign materials to different parts of your
model to give them some color and make them look a little bit
more interesting. Then we're going to take
it one step further and talk about how you
can use texture maps, texture images, to apply to your three D models to make them look a whole lot more realistic. And then we're
going to talk about how to add animations to R3d scenes and your
three D models and how to render those
animations out into movie files that you can then chair around or upload
to the Internet. Now, as you go
through the course, I highly recommend that after each section or every lesson, you try these things
out for yourself using your own little side projects
or tinkering around. It's the experimentation
that's kind of solidifying that
knowledge in your brain. Just watching the course
without doing anything. It's kind of like going
to a presentation, but not actually
taking any notes. It's the practicing and doing it yourself that
will actually make all of that knowledge
stick and make you feel much more comfortable
using Blender. Now in order to follow
along with this course, you will need
Blender version 2.8 or later as of the
recording of this video. We're up to 3.6 by now and you should have no problem
following along with any of the newer
versions as well. It's just that from version
2.79 to 2.8 there was a big UI change to blender that made the interface
much more intuitive, much more fun to
use, and unlocked a lot of cool
features in blender. So 2.8 or later is
what you'll need. And you'll also see that
throughout this course, I've recorded different lessons
with different versions. And you can always tell the version of blender
that I'm using in the bottom right hand
corner of the interface. But as I said, you
shouldn't have any problems following along even with
newer versions of blender. If you do get stuck though, do leave me a comment so I can jump in and help you
out and unblock you. And I can also then update
the lesson to whatever the new UI might look like in
later versions of Blender. Just a quick note about
me, my name is Tobias, and I've been
learning and teaching filmmaking visual effects
in Re B for over a decade. Now. I run the surfaced studio
Youtube channel that is now incredibly slowly creeping up to half 1 million subscribers. I'm entirely self taught
from online resources. I've found from experimenting from doing short
film projects and all sorts of other little creative ventures
along the line. I've started using Glenda about six years ago. I
really loved the program. I think it's fantastic,
super powerful, and a lot of fun to use. And I'm just really glad to have you along
for the journey, But that was really enough. Waffles. Let's finally
jump into the course.
2. How to Download Blender: In order to download Blender, simply visit the official
Blender website at Blend.org Then in the top
menu, click on Download. And then you can simply click on the big blue button to
download the latest version of Blender for your
operating system at the time of
recording this video. That is version 3.6 0.2 LTS, where LTS stands for
Long Term Support. And I highly
recommend downloading an LTS version because they are the most stable and the
most well supported. Just below that,
you can download Blender in different flavors, like as a standalone
zip file that you can unpack and
don't need to install. You can get versions for
other operating systems, and you can actually
get Blender on Steam as well if you prefer. If you scroll a little bit
further to the bottom, there's an option to
go experimental and download any yet unreleased
version of Blender. If you want to get access to the latest features before
they're officially released, just be aware that the
experimental versions can be a little bit unstable as they're still actively in development. If for some reason you prefer to use an older
version of Blender, you can come up to the top and click on previous versions. In here you will be
able to download any version of Blender
ever released, all the way back to version 1.0 But for the purpose
of this course, all you really need to do is hit the big blue button
to download Blender, then install it, and then you're ready to get
started with the course.
3. THE BASICS - SECTION OVERVIEW: Now that we've got blender
installed and ready to go, let's jump into
actually using it. In this section, we will go
over the absolute basics. Going to talk about how to
set up and configure blender, how the interface works, how the different panels operate. We're going to create some
three D objects in our scene. Learn how to move them around, assign some basic materials, set up lights and cameras, and how to render all of
that out into a final image. Now in all of my lessons,
at the very bottom, you will see all of the
shortcut keys and all of the keyboard keys
that I press blended into to make that hopefully nice and easy for you to follow along in case you can't
understand my weird accent. Also, be sure to download the course materials to
which I'll drop your link, just down below, which
will contain all of the files that you
need throughout the entire duration
of this course. So make sure you download that, save it to your local hard drive so you've got
everything ready to go. And again, just a reminder if you get stuck, if
you have questions, if something doesn't work,
get in contact with me, just leave me a
comment on the lesson or hit me up on social media. I'm always happy to help out and I really
want to make sure that you have the best and most enjoyable learning experience. So be sure to make use of that and get
in contact with me. But now let's shut up and
finally jump into blender.
4. Setting up Blender: Whenever you launch Blender, the first thing you will
see is the splash screen. Up on the top right hand corner, you can see the version
that you're running. It's version 3.1 0.2 for me. You can also see it in the
bottom right hand side of the user interface
down there. If you're ever curious
on the splash screen, you can create a new file for a general three D
scene two D animation, sculpting, visual
effects, video editing. And you've got
quick access to all of your previously opened files. However, I'm going to
ignore all of that. Click anywhere, close
the splash screen. Before we get our hands dirty, I highly recommend you jump to the settings first
to make sure that blender is set up as best as it can for your system
in your set up. So let's come up into the
main menu under Edit. Come into the Preferences, let me just make that
just a little bit bigger. On the left hand side, come into the System tab at the top here, Under Cycles Render Devices, you have a number of
different options. This might be set to non, which means that all
rendering in cycles, and we talk about cycles
a little bit later, will happen on your CPU. That is not very efficient. I don't really recommend that. If you have an video
graphics card, you will have an
option to enable cut that I highly recommend. This is going to use
my G four GTX cards. I have two in my systems at the moment, so
they're both showing. And I want to use both of my
GPUs to help with rendering. If you have an RTX card, you can also enable optics, which will be even faster. However, my graphics
card don't have RTX, so that is not supported. If you've got an MD
card or your Linux or Macos HIP is
available for you, I highly recommend
just don't use non use Da optics or HIP
depending on your graphics card, I'm going to set it back to Cuda because that is the
optimal setting for me. Now the other things that may be different to
your set up is you may have a mouse that doesn't
have a middle mouse button. Or you may be using a trackpad, because you're on a laptop. For that, come into the input category on
the left hand side and under mouse you can enable the option to emulate
a three button mouse. Which means that holding down the old key or the
option key if you're on a Mac and left
clicking will be the same as clicking with
your middle mouse button. Because Blender uses the middle
mouse button a fair bit. This can be really useful
if your mouse does not have a middle mouse button or
you're on a track pad. Similarly, if you're on a
laptop with a small keyboard, or you've got an
external keyboard that doesn't have a numb pad. Again, because the
numpad is super useful under the
keyboard options, you have an option to enable
to emulate the numb pad. If you enable that,
then the normal keys, one to zero will act the same way as the one to
zero keys would on the numpad. Again, super useful to have that enabled if you don't
have a numpad. However, I do have a numpad, so I don't need that option. I also have a three
button mouse. I don't need this option
either. Highly recommend. You do have a computer with a numpad and a
three button mouse, but those options are
available there for you. Then there's a ton of
other options here. You can go into
the interface and change color style sizing. You can select from
different themes and apply them to different
elements on the interface. Have a look through,
there's a ton of option, I'm not going to go through
all of them in detail. The one in system for
your GPU acceleration are really the most
important ones. Now let's close the
preferences and let's talk about the basic interface for
blender in the next lesson.
5. The User Interface: The blender user interface is broken up into a number
of different panels. At the top, like
in most programs, you have the main menu bar file added, render window help. Over on the right
hand side, you have a number of different
tabs which are different work ****** within blender that you can
customize and set up for. Now we're just
going to remain on the default layout right
here in the middle. Very obviously you have your
three D view and we'll talk about how to navigate and work with this in just a moment. The top right hand side,
you will find the outliner, which is essentially a list, a tree view of all of the objects and
items in your scene. Right now you can tell
we have a camera, you have a cube, and you
have a light in your scene. And as I click through these, you can see them being
selected in the three D view. Over on the left hand side. Down below that you will
find the properties panel which is where you can control all of the settings
where you're seeing, you're rendering your
objects, your materials, your physics, your particles, your lighting and
much, much more. Again, very detailed and we'll get into that in
just a little bit. Underneath the three D view, you will find your
timeline where you can play keyframes and play
back your animations, and underneath that you'll
just find a foot bar. This is actually really useful. If you have a look here,
there's little icons indicating in the current mode, what would happen if I pressed
the left mouse button, or the middle mouse button, or the right mouse button, as I'm navigating around and
you can see this change, there's a context
menu down here. Super useful if you're
just getting started, just keep an eye out
down here below. It's super useful, very helpful. Getting used to the
shortcut keys and what the different controls
do within Blender. Now besides the main menu at the very top and the
footer down at the bottom, every single panel
is structurally, actually the same at the top left hand corner of every panel in this
properties window, the outliner, the three D view, and even in the timeline in
the top left hand side here. Let's go back to
the three D view. You'll find this
little dropdown. And if you pop this open, you can change this
particular panel which right now is
the three view. If you pop this
open again again, top left hand side in
your three view panel's, pop this open, you can change the view of what you're
seeing in this panel. For example, let's say
I want to change this to my video sequencer. This panel has now changed
to be my video sequencer. Let's come over into
the top right hand side into the outliner.
Let's pop this open. Right now, this is set
to be the outliner, but we can change this over
to select the three view. Now our three view
is in this panel. Let's come to the
bottom where we've got our properties panel again.
Let's pop this open. Let's change this to
be our image editor. Now again, I'm not going to
go through all of the panels, but we will talk about all
of the important ones. I just want to show you
that you can change what's inside all of these panels
in any way that you like. You can also click
these thick bars between the panels and your cursor will change to this little sideway errors either left and right
or up and down. And you can click and drag down, Or click and drag left to re arrange your
interface if you want some panels to be
bigger and smaller. The other cool thing you can do, you can actually right click on any of these lines
between two panels. Let's click this and you
can then determine to add a vertical or horizontal
split to that panel. Let's select to do
a horizontal split. Now I can place a split in this panel on
the left hand side. Let's click that's going to
split this panel into two. Now I can change one of them to be something
totally different. Let's leave the top one
to being the sequencer, but let's pop open the
top left hand side dropdown on this bottom panel
that we've just created. Let's change this
over to, let's say the shader editor again. Don't worry about what
this panel does right now. I'm just showing you
how to essentially deal with the interface and work
with the different panels. Let's right click onto
this top bar on top of our shader editor and select
to do a vertical split. You can place it at the top
panel or on the bottom panel, or you can go over
to the right inside, split any of these
other panels in half. Let's to split our
shader editor in a half. Again, let's change
the right one over to maybe the graph editor. And once you've got yourself in a pickle and you've got too
many panels and you're like, oh, I don't know
what to do anymore. This has gotten
all really messy. You can also right
click on any of these lines and select
to join the areas. And then Javier cursor over
the panel on either side of the line that
you clicked that's going to display
this arrow here. This is going to
collapse the panel on the left hand side and make the one on
the right side the only one that sits
within the space. So let's click that. That has collapsed our shader editor. Now the graph editor is
taking up this panel. Let's right click this
line at the top here, select two join areas. By the way, you can
also swap if you just want to swap
the two panels. Let's select join eras, drag up, let's
collapse this upwards. Now all of this is taken
up by the graph editor. Now, once you've messed
everything up near workspace and you want to
reset it to the default, you can come up into
the main menu bar on these tabs here for all of
the different workspaces. Right now we're on
the layout tab, you can right click, but in here there isn't yet an
option to reset. It's being looked at, at
being added pretty soon. Maybe it'll be
available in Blend at 2.93 Right now there is
no option right here. The easiest thing you
can do is come over to the right hand side
of all these tabs with the workspaces
plus select General. Let's just create
a new workspace, a new layout workspace.
Let's select that. That's going to add a new
tab called Layout One. Because we already
have a layout, this is essentially the layout workspace that
we started with. We're now reset to default. If it bothers you that you have a layout workspace
here and a layout one, we can right click this one
to re order to the front. That's going to
push this workspace panel to the left hand side. You can right click
the old layout. If you click into that, you'll see this is the
one we messed up. Right click that. Delete that. And let's just double click onto this workspace name here. Let's just rename
this to Layout, and we're back to
where we started. Now if you just want
to reset everything, including any work that
you may already have done, you can simply close down
Blender and start it up again. Or you can come up into the
main menu, select File. And under file you'll
find a default option and then select to
load factory settings. That'll reset the
Blender interface. It'll also lose you
any unsaved changes. It'll simply reload this
basic start up file and it resets all of your work ****** and the interface
to the default. But now that I've talked way too much about the
overall interface, let's finally talk about arguably the most important
panel in Blender, the three D view in
the next lesson.
6. The 3D View: Arguably, one of the
most useful panels when you're getting started with blender is the three D view, which will shows you a
three D view of your scene. Right now we have a cube here. Over on the left hand side
we have a camera by the way, left click to select because that's what we
said to be at default. So now we've
selected the camera, it's highlighted in yellow. That's left click on
the cube to select it. Up here, over on the top
right hand side is a light. If you left click
that to select it, it'll turn orange again. You'll notice in the outliner over on the top right inside. In our scene
collection, which is a collection of everything
that is in our scene, you have a basic collection. It's just a default collection
and it contains a camera, a cube, and a light. As you select these ones, you can see them being highlighted
within the three view. Now in order to rotate
around in your three view, simply hold down the
middle mouse button or Alt left click if you're
emulating a three button mouse. And then there's drag to
rotate around your scene. You can scroll up and
down on your mouse wheel to zoom in and out of the scene. You can hold down shift,
then press and hold down the middle mouse button
and drag pan up and down. So it's really nice and easy to navigate around
the three D view if you don't have a three
button mouse or you just don't like using the
middle mouse button or on the top right hand side. In the three, you'll find
this little axis gizmo. And you can click on any of these and kind of rotate around. There's also a plus, you
can click and hold and then move your mouse forward or
backwards to zoom in and out. There's also hand tool again, this click and drag to
pan around your scene. But personally I
prefer just using the middle mouse button and
the mouse wheel to do that. This is essentially
the three view of everything we have in
our scene right now. The next most
important thing within your three D view are
the shading modes. And you will find all of them on the top right hand corner
of your three dew, these four little spheres
over on the right hand side. The left most one is wire frame shading and
if you click on that, all of your objects are going to be displayed in wire frame. It's just going to
show the outline and the geometric structure of them without showing the faces. So you can just
see right through. The second one is solid view, which won't use any lighting, but you'll be able to
see the actual surfaces of your three objects
in the scene. One over to the right
inside is Material Preview. Again, it won't
use any lighting, but it actually
show you materials that are applied to
any of your objects. And again, we'll get to those a little bit later
in this tutorial. And the one over on the very right is rendered shading view. If we click that, that
will essentially give you a rendered preview
of your scene. So you can see this light is now being applied to that cube. And what this rendered
preview will look like depends a little bit on the render engine that
you have selected. And we'll get to that
in just a second. Let's return to the solid view. And by the way,
blender is filled, like filled with
shortcuts for everything. And I highly recommend that you start using some wherever
you encounter them. They're super useful then make your workflow so much quicker. For example, you
can switch between the shady modes by pressing Z. While you cursors over
the three D view, this is going to bring
up a radial menu. And then you can select
rendered wire frame, Material Preview, or Solid view. So you can really quickly
switch to rendered view. You can also just
press that and then press the number
that is displayed. So for example, six will
get us back into solid view again. It just makes
life so much easier. Now in order to select
objects in your three D view, simply click on them. You can also click and drag to box select a
whole bunch of them. So let's select the camera
as well as the cubes. So you can select
multiple objects as one. You can also press A to select
everything in your scene. Or A in quick succession
to unselect everything. The last thing I
want to talk about is this little circle here. This little red
and white circle. Now this is the three
D cursor in blender. And it's really important because this is
essentially the point at which any new objects you create in your scene
will be created. You can move this cursor
around by holding down shift and right clicking anywhere within
your three D view is going to move the three
de cursor to that position. If we were to create a
new object right now, it would get created
in this position here where the three cursor is. Again, hold on Shift and right
click to navigate and move this cursor around to
anywhere that you want. You can also shift
and C to reset the three de cursor right to
the origin of your world. But we'll deal with the
three de cursor a little bit more when we start
to create some objects. Now over on the left hand side
within your three D view, you have a number of
different controls. Right now we're on
the selection mode. You can also go
into cursor mode, and then whenever
you click left, you're just going
to move that cursor without having to hold on shift. You also have options to move, rotate, and scale your objects. There's also a general
transform object, and we'll get to that. You can annotate, measure, and add different objects to your scene via these controls. We'll get to some of
these a little bit later. Now with a cursor
over the three view, let's press shift and
see again to reset that three de cursor to
the origin of our world. Before we move on to
talking about the outliner, let's very quickly talk
on render engines and the different render engines that are available
within Blender. Let's do that in
the next lesson.
7. Render Engines: Now the render engine in
Blender will determine how the final rendered image or
animation will look blend. As of Version 2.92 has three internal render engine
that you can choose between. For that, over on
the right hand side within the property panel, you'll find a number of
different vertical tabs. And there's one with this
little camera icon here, which is your render
properties for your project. Let's click into that. Over on the right hand
side, at the very top, you should see a drop down
for your render engine. Right now this is set
to V. V is blenders, high performance Viewport
rendering engine. And is mainly used to render Blender within the three D view, but you can also use it
for your final renders. They come out
looking really nice. However, in order to understand the difference between
these three engines, we actually need to change our
shading mode because right now our shading mode
is set to solid. Neither wireframe solid
nor material preview will use the actual
render engine. The render engine
is only used for render shading mode
or for rendering out the actual image or animation that you've created in Blender. Let's click onto the
rendered shading mode. This is going to take a second. Now our Viewport is going to
get rendered out using V, Easily move around because
V renders in real time into the three DV within Blender using your
graphics card. Now this is what V looks like. Let's come back into
the properties panel, into this render
engine dropdown. Let's change this
over to cycles. Now that was really quick, but you may have noticed
that as we're moving around, everything looks a
little bit blocky for a moment and then
it becomes sharp. And that is because the scene is now being rendered
with cycles. And the difference
with cycles is that cycles is an actual
ray tracing engine. It would actually simulate the light bouncing
around your scene. It will render a
lot slower than V, especially if you
have a complex scene. But the final result will
look much more realistic, especially because they can deal much better with reflections and refraction like
transparent materials like glass and other things. Just to give you that
really realistic look, I recommend go with cycles, but it will render a
fair bit slower than EV. Obviously, there's
tons and tons of different settings for
every single render engine. We might get into some of them a little bit later
in this tutorial. For now, let's
switch from cycles over to the third render
engine within Blender, which is called the
work bench engine. Now this engine is
simpler than V. It doesn't have somewhat
fancy features and it doesn't give you
a realistic result. It's mainly used for modeling or while you're setting
up your scene or animations to get a good view for what that scene will
look like in the end. And then I recommend switch over either to V if you
want to render it really nice and fast auto
cycles if you really need that absolute precision and that more realistic look in the end. For now, go to switch back to V, because V is nice and fast. We can use it while we work and run through the rest
of the tutorial. But now that I've bought you enough for the render engines, let's look at another super
useful panel and blender, the Outliner, in
the next lesson.
8. The Outliner: You will find the
outliner and blender by the fault in the top right
hand corner of the interface. Let's just click on this little vertical bar on the left side of the panel directed
over to the left just to make this a
little bit bigger. And the outliner essentially
shows you all of the objects that you have
within your three D scene. There's the lightning, just click on them to
select them here. And that selects them in
the three D view as well. There's the cube and
there's the camera. By the way, you can double click on any of these objects
in the outliner. Let's double click
on this light and rename them to anything
that makes sense to you. And this can be very useful, especially if you create
a bazillion cubes for different walls or
elements of a building, or arms and body parts
of your characters. It makes much more sense
to give them useful names. By default, Ed, just be
called cube or sphere, or triangle, or monkey head. Very useful to name these ones. Right next to the name,
you'll get a little icon indicating what type of
object this is in your scene. For example, our bright
light is a light object. Camera is a camera. Our cube is a mesh or a
three dimensional object made up of vertices,
points, edges, which are the lines connecting those points and faces which then give you that solid outer
exterior of your object. But back in the Outliner, the other thing Blender
now has are collections. Collections are simply
groups for your objects. In the default scene, you
will have a collection which contains
your bright light, the camera, and the cube. All of these have
little triangles that you can
collapse and expand. And if you expand
the bright light, you'll actually just find that
light object under there. If you expand the camera, you'll find the
camera under there. And underneath the cube, you'll actually just find the
mesh for the cube. And you can dig
further into that. And you'll find the
material in here. And we'll get to materials. And just a little
bit, let's just collapse these ones again, and collections you
can rename as well. So let's double click
the name collection. I was going to call
this one my stuff. And you may notice that
this collection sits in another collection called
the Scene Collection. You can actually drag and drop
all of the objects around in this hierarchy on this
tree within your outliners. For example, I get grab
the camera and drag it out of the my stuff collection and drop it onto the
scene collection. And not just part of the scene collection is no longer in this. My stuff can do
the same with the bright light right here
and then collapse them. So now I have the
my stuff collection which only contains the cube, bright light and camera sit outside in the scene collection. And I highly recommend stay as organized as you
can within Blender. It just makes your
life a whole lot easier now if you have too many objects in your
scene and you don't actually want to see them
at any point in time. In the outliner over on
the right hand side, you have this little icon. Click on any of these to hide the objects within
your three D view. You can also click one of them and drag down to enable all of them or click to untick and then drag up to untick all of them. Let's just show
all of them again. Now this visibility switch, if you hover over it
saying hide in Viewport, doesn't actually impact
whether this object is going to get rendered
into the final image. When you do render it just hides it temporarily in the Viewport. However, Blender in the
outline actually has tons of additional switches
and options for all of the objects and all of the
elements in your scene. But by default they're all hidden because they
were getting a bit too confusing in some of the earlier versions of Blender. In order to add them back in, simply come up to
this little filter, can hear pop that open. At the very top, you actually have a whole bunch of toggles. The blue ones are enabled, the gray ones are disabled. So you can enable the
selectability toggle as well as the disabled in Viewports option as well
as the disable in renders. And there's a few other ones. By default this is how
you should start out. I would recommend enable the selectable one
because it's really useful as well as
the disabled in viewports and disabled
in renders flag. And if we now collapse
this filter again, you can see all of
these new switches, options available on
every single element within your scene
in the Outliner. Right now, if I
clicked on my Cube in my three D view,
I would select it. Let's click anywhere else to
unselect it in the Outliner. Let's disable this
selectable switch here. If you click on it, it's
going to get graded out. And now I can no longer select my cube.
And this is great. If you've done working
on parts of your scene, just make them all
unselectiblef. Click it, decrease the
metallic property again. If you click so that you can't accidentally select
those objects anymore, I can obviously still
hide and show my cube. I can also hide it in all viewports or show
it on all viewports. This actually is
a global option. It does it for all viewports
because he may have multiple three D views and other things this can be
really useful as well. The much more
interesting one is this little disable and
render switch here. If I take this, you can see the cube is still visible
in my three D view. But now if I
rendered this scene, this cube would not show
up in my final renders. This is really useful
if you want to temporarily disable
individual elements or entire collections
from being rendered into that final image that
comes out of Blender. But now I'm just
going to leave all of them enabled, other
great things. In the Outliner,
at the very top, you have a search and
you can simply search for any object by name. And the outliner will filter all of those down so you can find exactly what you're looking for, assuming you've
named them properly. Let's clear that search over
on the right hand side, you'll find this little
plus I can hear this is to add a new collection
into your scene. Right now we have a scene
collection which is the base of everything
within this project. Inside that we have this
my stuff collection, but let's say I wanted
to add a new one. I have new stuff over the top right hand
side in the outliners. Click a little plus to
add a new collection. We now have a new
collection in our scene, White light, but let's call
this one my new stuff. Let's select the bright
light, Hold down, Shift. Click on the camera, select
both of those objects, drag and drop them into the
my new stuff collection. And now we've got them organized just a little bit better. There's a ton of stuff you
can do in the Outliner. I haven't touched
on everything yet, especially under the filter. There's lots of
different options here. There's also a drop down
here where you can see different parts of
this Blender project. Not going to worry about
that too much for now. When you're starting
out the Outliner, just the basic switches
and naming and organizing your stuff is probably
the main thing you need to know about the Outliner. Next, let's move on to the
properties panel in Blender. And again, do that
in the next lesson.
9. The Properties Panel: Now let's look at another
panel you will likely be spending a lot of time with
while working in Blender. And that is the
properties panel, which you will find
by the fault in the bottom right hand
corner of the interface. This is where you
can control all of the settings for your
scene, your output, your materials, your
objects, your physics, your lighting, your textures,
and much, much more. Now, you may have noticed
that this panel actually changed as I selected the
different objects in my scene. Let's click on the Cube, and we're now seeing some vertex groups and shape keys and other in depth three D stuff. Don't have
to worry about that. If you select the
camera three D view, you're now seeing
the camera settings. If you select the light, you
now see the light settings each time A different tab in this properties panel here
has been highlighted. You can also click
through these. The difference between
the gray icons at the top and the colored
ones at the bottom is that the ones at the
bottom may change depending on what object you
have selected in your scene. The context specific, the ones that are gray are
if you hover over them, the scene properties
which impact the entire three D
vault above that. You've got your view
layers and this is a bit too technical
for this tutorial. You can set up different
render passes and you know, render out different colors
or different objects into different images at the same
time gets pretty fancy here. The things you probably
want to know about are the output properties where
you define the resolution, like the width and height
of your final render image. The aspect ratio frames, if you're doing animations. As well as the output files, like whether it's a PNG or it's a movie file or other things. Just above that, we were
here just a minute before, are the render
properties where you define your render engine. And then depending on which
engine you have selected, you've got a ton of
different options for those render engines that
you can control in here. Again, we might touch on some of these throughout
this tutorial, but don't worry about
them too much for now. Just leave everything
on default. Just above that you have
your active tool settings. And these ones do change, but not based on which
object you have selected, but which tool you have
selected as you're working. We don't need to worry about
that too much for now. Let's just select the cube. And you may notice that some of these taps have changed again, and we will get to them
in just a little bit. But for the time being, let's leave the properties
panel behind. And let's look at
the timeline panel, where you can control
key frames and animations in the next lesson.
10. How to Create Objects: Let's finally start creating some three D objects in blender. Now, right now, all we have
our seen is a simple cube, a light, and a camera. But let's add a
few more things in here to make it look a
little bit more interesting. Remember this little
white red circle here is our three cursor. And any new object
we create will get created at that three cursor. We can move this cursor
by holding down Shift. And you can see
the little context menu at the bottom
of the screen. Change right clicking. Now we'll move that
three D cursor. So let's just move it over
to the side right there. Let's add a new
object right here. For that you can either come to the top of the three
D view in here, you'll find an option to add. And if you pop that
open, there's tons of different options to
add different meshes like three D objects, curves, surfaces, metabots, which are like liquid
shapes that melt together. Text You can add volume
for like smoke and fog, grease pencil, which is
all for two D animations. Amateur for animations. Empty objects which are helpers,
images, lights, cameras, speakers for sound force fields
when you're dealing with particles and a whole
bunch of other stuff. Again, blender is
full of shortcuts. The shortcut for that
menu is actually shift, and that's going to pop that up wherever your
mouse cursor is. Let's just add something pretty simple. Let's come into mesh. Let's to add a UV sphere. This has now added a
sphere into our three D C, that's also appeared
in the outline. And here's our new sphere. And again, you could
double click it and rename it or move it to
a different collection. Maybe this is part of
my stuff right there. If he did that, you
may have missed an option that you
actually have in Blender. Let's delete this object
again by selecting it, Pressing X on your keyboard, and then confirming
yes, delete, please. Let's press Shift and A
again, come into Mesh. Let's add a UV sphere again, as you add objects into your scene and blender at
the bottom of the three DV, you actually have this
little pop up here that shows you the
last operation, but also gives you
some options for that. Let's pop that up in here. You now actually have options for what you want that
UV sphere to look like. There's segments in order
to change the hell, you can either use the errors on the left and right side a. See there's more or less segments being added
to the sphere. You can just click and
drag right or left, maybe. Let's not go too crazy. Let's add a few, maybe 60 or so. You can also change the
number of rings on it. You can change the radius. You can modify the object right here. You can
move it around. Yeah, if you accidentally
click somewhere else or if you move
some stuff around, that option disappears in tint. That highlight will start to
turn green because that is the base color of our material there. We now have a sphere. Let's move the three
cursor down here to the right hand side
shift and right click some at the
bottom of this light. Yeah, maybe there this time. Let's come into the top of
the three devi under at, let's select mesh
and maybe let's add a monkey head or Suzanne
monkey head into our scene. And again it has
popped up this option here because we had
it expanded already. You can collapse that
or expand it again. We can make this head
just a little bit bigger. Maybe I'll move it back a little bit so it gets
hit by the light. And I'll move it up just
a little bit as well. Again, set this up
in any way you want. You don't need to follow
along exactly more, just showing you the basics
of how it all hangs together. Now we have a little
scene set up and we've added a sphere in the
monkey into our scene. However, after you created your object and you start working with the
rest of Blender, those pop up options for where
that object is positioned, how it looks, the scale, the rotation will disappear. Chances are that you will want to keep modifying the position, scale rotation of your objects. Let's talk about how to modify any existing objects in your three D scene
in the next lesson.
11. Transforming Objects - Move, Scale & Rotate: Let's talk about
how you can modify existing objects in
your three D scene. In particular, modifying
their position, scale and rotation so you can place them
anywhere you want. For that, there's actually quite a number of different
options available in Blender. Now the most obvious one is
the tuba On the left side of your three D view below the selection tool
and the cursor tool, which when selected,
allows you to simply click to move your
three D cursor around. You will find an option
for move, rotate, scale, and transform with the
monkey head selected. By the way, you can't select objects while you're
on the cursor tool. Return to the selection tool. Make sure the monkey is
selected if it isn't already. Now with the monkey
head selected. Let's come over to
the left hand side of the three D view and
change to the move tool. This will now display a move
gizmo on our monkey head. And you can click
and drag on any of these errors to
move the monkey up, left, forward, backwards. Let's move it down a little bit. If you zoom in just a little bit more on
this monkey head, you can see there's these
little planes here as well. This allows you to freely move. Let me just zoom in a
little bit more clear. Clear essentially
essentially adds an additional with the
monkey still selected. Let's come over to
the left hand side, select the rotate tool that
will show the rotate gizmo, so you can now rotate
the monkey in place. Let's go over to the
scale tool again. Simply click and drag to scale the monkey out in
any one direction. So you can really distort them
in anywhere that you want. Let's just control
or command and z that to undo all of that. By the way, you can actually
select this white ring here. Click and drag. If you want to scale the entire monkey heads. You're not swishing
it, you're scaling it uniformly across
all of these axes. Or if you don't want to use either of those
individual tools, you can come over to the left
hand side and simply select the transform tool which shows all of those Gizmos
at the same time. So you can now move the monkey, you can rotate, and you can scale him in anywhere
that you want. Again, let's undo all of that. Let's return to the
selection tool. And let's talk about another
way you can modify all of those properties
for your objects in the properties panel, which by default will be on the bottom right hand side
of the blend interface. Come to this tab with this
bracketed rec angle here, which is the object properties. Select that in here.
Under the transform. By the way, you
collapse and expand all of these within the
transform panel, you will have a location,
rotation, and a scale. You can literally just click into these type in any number. 2 meters, 2 meters by 2 meters. Let's position our monkey
at 2 meters by 2 meters by 2 meters away from the origin point in
your three D world. Let's just under
that a little bit. Maybe I'll select
the monkey head. Come to the move tool. Let's
just move the monkey a little bit more where we
can see him again or again. You can just move the camera
around if you wanted to. By the way, by default, the camera will rotate from the point that it's sitting
in your three D world. If instead you wanted to rotate around your
currently selected objects, like let's say we
wanted this camera to rotate around
the monkey head. You can select the
monkey head and hit the delete key
on your numpad. That is going to focus
the camera on the monkey. And now if I rotate
in my three D view, my movements will be
around that monkey head. That's super useful if you
just want to focus in on an object no matter where
it's in your three D scene. But anyway, back into
the properties panel. Into the object properties, you have a location just like with any
sliders in Blender. You can simply
click on this value and drag it right and left. Or again, click into it
and give it a number. You can now rotate your
monkey head in here, or you can scale it up. Let's just set the scale
to one by one by one to make sure our monkey head is
not distorted in any way. Let's come back into
the three view. Scroll down on the mouse, peel
to zoom out a little bit. Let's talk about
the easiest way and the way I would recommend you get used to modifying
things in blender. And that is using
your shortcut keys. It just makes life
so much easier. You don't have to deal with
the tools on the left side. You don't have to dig into
the object properties. You can do all of that
straight in your three D view. Simply select your object. Let me just return to
the selection tool. Select the monkey head
and press to grab it. And now you can simply drag it around in your three D view. Click to place it
anywhere that you want. You can rotate around, say well that's not where I
wanted it Again, press just grab it and
drag it into position. The problem is that
this move will move the monkey from the
perspective of the camera. If you want to move it
specifically in the Xy or Z Xis, press G to grab the monkey head, and then press X to constrain
the movement to the X axis. Press Z for the Z axis, or Y for the Y axis. Now if you want to constrain the movement
of this monkey head to a plane like let's
say just the Xy plane, you can press shift and Z. So that means move the monkey in anything
but the z directions. Not up and down, but I can now move it within the Xy plane. If I go shift in X, I can move it into the
z and y direction, but I can't move
it on the X axis. So this gives you a
really nice way to control exactly how and where you want to
place your objects. I like to do one
axis at the time, so let's bring the monkey
forward on the X axis a bit. And then Z to constrain the movement to the Z axis
or the vertical axis. Let's bring it up a little bit, press and then Y to just bring the monkey head forward
a little bit bit dark, let's just rotate around maybe. And X again. Move it a
bit closer to that light. Maybe it is somewhere
there. While the camera is now rotating around the point where the monkey
head used to be, the monkey still selected. Press delete on the numpad and the camera will
zoom right back in on. That is for grab. Super easy. With the monkey selected,
press R for rotate. Now you can rotate
the monkey again. You're doing this in relation
to the view of the camera. If you rotate around the
monkey, press R again. Now you're rotating the
head in a different axes. And again, similar
to the grabbing, you can now press X
to lock the rotation around the X axis no matter where your
camera is position. So let's face them from
the front, press R X. Now if you move, you can only
rotate them around the X, X, Y for the Y, X, Z for the Z, X. You can also use shift and X, or shift z and shift and Y
to rotate within a plane. But I find those
ones less useful, so I don't generally
use that now. Left click will
always confirm if you're canceled
simply right click with your mouse or hit Escape on your keyboard and it's
back to where it was. Finally, let's talk
about scaling. You may have guessed
it, with your object or objects selected press to scale and then you
can simply drag out or in to scale your object. Now I recommend try to avoid having your mouse directly
on the center of the object. Because if press, it's
actually really hard to control because
the distance or the multiply that is used to figure out how
much the scale is based on how far my mouse was from the center of the
object to begin with, I recommend have your mouse
a little bit further away. Then press S. You
can see that line there to scale in and out. Same thing again. X for the X, X, Y, Z for the Xs. Or shift X, Y and Z constrain
the scaling to two planes, so I can squish my monkey in or blow them up on just
parts of the axis. Now we know how to create and modify objects within blender. By the way, let's just reset the camera back to the
center of the world, as well as the three
decursor by pressing Shift and C to move the three
decursor back to the origin, cameras focus back
on the origin. So we've got an overview
over our entire scene. Now let's talk about
how to add materials to your objects to
actually give them some color and make
them look different. Because right now, everything we have in the
scene is the same, boring, dull gray again. Let's look at that
in the next lesson.
12. How to Add Materials to Objects: Let's look at how you can
create and assign materials, 23d objects in blender. Now in blender you can easily create any sort of material
that you can think of, from plain plastic color objects to really intricate
color textures, bump mapping, distortion,
glass refraction. And then you can also
create volumetric materials for smoke and fire. All of that is pretty
advanced and I'll like to get to that
later in this course. Let's just start with
something really simple. Let's just say I want these three objects to
have different colors. So let's select the monkey. Yet in the properties panel, let's come all the way down to this little soccer ball
looking thing right here. That's the Material Properties.
Let's click on that. We're now in the Material
Properties panel. It's pretty empty
right now because the monkey itself does
not yet have a material assigned to it In
order to create a new material to assign
to our boring gray monkey, Depress, that is going to create a new material called
Material 001 by default. By the way, you can simply
click into this and I highly recommend
naming your materials. Let's call this one Monkey
underscore Matt for material. Hit Enter to confirm. Don't borrow too
much about the fact that it's replicated
up at the top. Single objects can have
multiple materials assigned to them because you
can assign them to parts of the objects like the s, the eyes and the
rest of the head might have different materials. For now, there's just the one
material called monkey mat that's selected
right here as well. Don't worry too much
about the use nodes and all of the
other fancy stuff. There's tons of
settings in here, play around for them, have fun, and just see what happens. For now, let's simply
come down a little bit. Need to use your mouse, will. You can also click and hold the middle mouse button
and drag down or up to scroll through
the contents of these panels. And
that's super useful. I use that all the time. Let's simply come
to the base color, click on this, that's going
to bring up a color pick up. Let's change this to
maybe a bluish color. And you'll notice
that in the viewport, the monkey is now blue. Now do note that this blue, this material will
only show if you're rendered Material Preview mode. Both of those will show
the actual material. If you go into solid
shading mode or wire frame, that will not show any material. So make sure you're either
in material preview or in rendered shading mode, otherwise these
materials will not show. Let's select the sphere, but keep an eye out
on what happens in this material properties
panel right here. If I select the sphere, will, this object has no materials. And again, it's all blank. If you reselect the monkey head, you can see your monkey and your monkey material back in here. Let's select the sphere. You can either now
click on you to create a new material
for the sphere, or over on the
left hand side you actually have this
drop down here. If you pop this open, you will
see there is a monkey mat, our monkey material
that we created. There's also a blank
material which is the default material
that Blender creates in assigns to the cube, and you'll see that
in just a second. In here, you could now select to assign the monkey
material to this sphere. Now do note that
this material is now shared between the sphere
and the monkey head. And that's indicated in blender
with this little box here saying there's now two objects
referencing this material. That means that if you were
to change this base color or any of the other
properties in this material, let's change this to green. You will change
both the sphere and the monkey head because they're both using the same material. Let's just change this back to a sky blue sphere and monkey are now blue again
with the sphere selected. Come into the
materials properties. Let's click this little x to unassign that material
from our sphere. Now it has no material,
it's blank and gray again. Let's hit New to create
a new material again, Let's rename this
one to Sphere Mat. Let's change the base
color of this two. Maybe a bred with the
Sphere selected press. Delete on your numpad
to zoom in on it. You can see that's what
this material looks like. Let's just come down and
change a few other properties. For example, let's jack up this metallic
property right here. And you can see how
that's affecting the look and feel
of this material. It now feels well more
metallic because we brought up the metallic
value of that material. You can also increase, decrease the specular highlight. And you can see that
getting a little bit brighter right there. And you can bring
down the roughness. Right now, the light that hits this material is getting
diffused just a little bit, which is making that
look a little bit soft. But you can bring down the
roughness to essentially make the material closer to something like glass that is
very reflective. Let's bring down the roughness, and you can see how
that's suddenly getting much, much shinier. I may also right click this sphere and select to
shape this one smooth. And you can see this really
nice highlight there. If you bring up the
roughness, again, you're diffusing that and making it a much softer material. Again, there's tons of
properties and I'm not going to go through all of
them, Just have a play around. There's so many cool
things you can do. So now we have a sphere material and one for our monkey head. If I click middle mouse button
or to scroll up in here, this is now the monkey
material selected. Again, Sphere has the sphere
material which is red. Let's select the cube. And this one already has a
material sign called Material, because by default in the default scene that
Blender created for us, you already had
this cube and you already had a default
material on it. Now you can either delete
this and create a new one, or I'm just going to
rename it to Cube Map. Come down, Let's
change the base color. Maybe this one I'll make bright yellow again with the cube selected to
delete on the numpad, To zoom in on that so you can check out what
that looks like. Come down a little
bit, I want it to be a little bit
more specular, a little bit less rough, so it just gets a
little bit more shiny. And you'll see the effect
of all of these changes as well when we start dealing with lights a little bit better. Now I actually want
my scene to have a plane underneath it that
reflects these objects. A bit nicer just to
make the scene look a little bit more
interesting for that. That creates, again,
if it is not, because you've moved
it with holding down shift and clicking right. Or because you were on
the cursor tool and you were clicking that
three de cursor around press Shift and C to reset the three de cursor to
the center of the origin. Now let's press Shift and A to add an object, I'm
going to add a mesh. I'm going to add a plane. Now added a plane, and you can neither scale it up in here, maybe let's make this
12 meters in size. Let's make sure you're
on the selection tool. Let's click anywhere that
pop up box will disappear. So let's select the
plane, press for scale. Let's just drag
this out a scale, this plane up quite a bit more. You can see these really
nice shadows here now, as well being cast
by this light. And we'll get to more
lights in just a second. Let me just grab this cube, press G to grab it. Move it up, and you can
see how the shadows update in real time.
That's working. V is an amazing tool since that's been introduced
in Blender 2.8 It makes working with Blender so much more fun just
because you can see all of these updates
live in your viewport. Let me grab the monkey
had press to move it and we're going to move it over to the right hand side
there, the sphere. Move that over a little bit. I want to push it back, so I'm going to press Y to lock the, move in to the Y. X,
strike that down. And move that over there. Maybe move this forward
just a little bit. So I've got the three objects
lined up right there. And what I might do as
well, select the plane, press G and Y, just push the plane back maybe. And X again, just do
whatever you want in here. I'm just just going with
a very simple setup, but obviously feel free to just tweak this in any
way that you want. I might also rotate
my monkey around, the Z. X is just
faces the camera a little bit better and then I'm going to move the camera in, This is kind of
where I want to be. Grab the plane X. Move that over to
the right hand side. Just so we've got a
little bit of a nicer set up right here with
the plane selected. Let's also give this material in the Material Properties tab, press New to add a new material. Let's call this one
plane Underscore Matt. Let's come down a little bit. I actually want
to make this very non rough, so it actually, I want this to be
reflective and bring up the specula and the
metallic base color. White, maybe not. Maybe I'll
make this a bit darker. It's almost like a black
reflective surface. Maybe just a dark
gray will do that. Looks all right, but there's
no actual reflections and that's because we're
using V right now. Let's talk about how we can enable reflections
and tweak some of the other render settings and blender in the next lesson.
13. Render Settings: Let's look at enabling
reflections and glow in V. Now I'm not going to go into all of the
nitty gritty here, but I do want to give
you a quick overview of how you can easily tweak your
render settings in Blender. If you return to the
render properties and change your render engine
from V over to cycles, you can see you now
have reflections. Because cycles is a
ray tracing engine, it deals really well with
reflections and refractions. You have a bit of noise, don't worry about that
too much for now. You can fix that just with
sampling and denoising. Now in the Ando settings, if you are using cycles, do make sure that your device
is set on GPU compute. So you're actually utilizing
your graphics card. That might take a moment just to switch those drivers over, but then rendering should
be a whole lot faster. However, let's switch this
back from cycles over to EV, because you can actually will fake reflections in EV by
using something called screen space reflections with the EV render engine selected. You can come a bit further down. There's actually a whole
bunch of different options of things that are
turned off by default, but they make your scene
look a whole lot nicer. They're just a little
bit slower to compute. There's ambit occlusion, which will add a little
bit of shadow into the dark corners of
your three D objects. There's bloom, which will make bright parts of your image
bloom if you overdo that. Can look a little bit cheap, but if you just come into the settings and tweak
this a little bit, maybe let's make this a
little bit less intense and just a little bit smaller so it just doesn't
look quite so. Gaudy, Just a bit more subtle. That actually looks quite nice. You can also control things
like depth of field, subsurface scattering, a whole bunch of
other things that, again, topics for other tutors. The one thing I want to enable is screen space reflections. Let's stick this on. You
now have reflections in B. Now these ones are faked. They're not real light
bouncing around the scene. And they have some limitations, but they actually work really
well to previewing and rendering a lot of scenes and
just making them look nice. Let's just go with that for now. Also because it makes
rendering really nice and fast in the viewport. Now the one big thing to note is that V is a little
bit more limited than cycles in terms of what it can render and how
well it can do that, especially if you come to transparent and
translucent materials like glass or water liquids. Cycles does a much better job. V doesn't properly
support that just yet, but it might come in a
future release of blender. Maybe by the time
you're watching it, you may as well use
V. But if you want a fully realistic render,
do go with cycles. You just get a much
more realistic result, especially once you jack up
the render quality settings. But again, it's just going
to take a little bit longer. Let's stay on V.
Let's talk about how to add more and more interesting
lights into your scene. And as always, let's do
that in the next lesson.
14. Working with Cameras: In this lesson, we
will cover how to create and modify
cameras and blender so that you can
specify from which viewpoints your final
images will be rendered. So let's pretend we're
happy with our scene set up and we now want to
render out this image. The most natural
thing to do would be to simply come up
into the main menu. There's a big
render tab in here. Click on Render, and then
simply select to render image of just hit F
12. So let's do that. Now that popped up
outside of the screen, let me just drag
that in and, well, let's zoom out by scrolling
down on the mouse wheel. Well, it looks like
it's part of our scene, but it's certainly
not what we're seeing in the three D view. Let's close this
render window again. And the reason for
that is that any time you render a
scene within Blender, Blender will use the camera
that is set up in your scene. Now if I rotate around and
zoom out a little bit, there's a camera in
our scene already. And if you look at
where it's pointing at, it's just pointing down
here at the floor. It's not actually
pointing at our objects. And you can easily
jump into the view of this camera by hitting
zero on your numpad. That is going to
transition you into the camera's view and
this is what we're seeing And if you hit F 12 again or again come
to render image, but again, I'm a
fan of shortcuts F 12 to render this out. Again, it's off screen.
Let me just shrink this window down
just a little bit and zoom out so we can
see the whole thing. Yes, this is exactly what we're looking at through the
camera within our scene. In order to get the view that we want in
the three D view, we need to make sure this camera view matches what we want. Let's close this out. Right now we're in the
camera's view, by the way. If he had zero on
the numpad, again, to jump right back out of the camera for anyone who's saying or I
don't have a numpad, I'm using a laptop or
some other keyboard that doesn't have a numpad. You can always come up into
Preferences under Edit. Go into Preferences again, let me bring that
into the screen. Go into input at the top here. You have an option
to emulate numpad. If you enable that, then your normal number keys on the keyboard act as if they were the numpad zero on
your keyboard will then jump you in and
out of camera view. Let's just leave that disabled for a second. Let's
close this out. And by the way,
remember how when you selected an object and you
press delete on the numpad, it frames on that object. Again, you don't have a numpad, you can select the object, so let's select the camera, for example, come up into view. And in here will become again, super useful. Again,
super useful. Again, super useful
for extremely. You can resign all these
keyboard shortcuts as well if you select that. That's essentially
the same thing you can work around if
you don't have a numpad. So let's hit zero on the numpad again to re enter camera view. And let's say I want to
adjust the position, the most natural
thing would be to, let's just move around. I just left that camera
view right there. I didn't change the camera, I broke out of the camera view. Let's hit zero again, but this time before we
start moving around, let's lock the position of the camera to this three D view. And you can do that
via the view tab. Now that ones a
little bit hidden on the right hand side
in the three D view, there's this little
arrow pointing left. You can either click on
that to pop out this menu, or you can press on
your keyboard with the cursor over the three view to collapse or expand that. In here you'll find a
number of different taps. And we want to navigate
to the view tab because in here you have an option to lock
camera to view. Make sure this is enabled. By the way, in I think Blended 2.93 and some of
the newer releases, there's an option
for that up here just because it's used so much. With the camera
locked to your view, I can now move around
my three D view. And you may notice I'm no longer breaking out of that camera. Let's just press to hide
that panel For now. I can now move around
my three D view, zoom in and out, just
as I normally would. This actually changes the
position of the camera. So let's just navigate
forward a little bit. Position that camera
as best as we can. Zoom out just a little bit. Let's press N to bring up
the view tab again. In here. Let's disable, lock
camera to view. Let's press N again
to hide the panel. And if you now
move around again, now I've broken out
of that camera view. But you can see I've
repositioned the camera up here. If I now hit 12, let me just drag that in and mouse wheel down to zoom
out just a little bit. And this now rendered out much more of what
I was expecting. Let's close this again, and this is now the view of
the camera off our scene. Now this is a great way
to position your camera, but there's actually one
option that I prefer. Let's again enter camera view by pressing zero on the numpad. And this time
rather than locking the three D view to the camera, let's just use navigation mode. Like you can literally
pretend to be walking the camera
around your scene. In order to do that, while
in camera perspective, you can hold shift and
press the Tilda key, the little squiggly line on the left side of your numbers at the
top of your keyboard. That is going to enable
walk navigation. So now I can use my
mouse to look around. And WASD, just like a
first person shooter, to essentially move and
navigate my camera around. Q moves me down, E moves me up. And I can now slide
the camera right into position of frame up my objects right the
way I want them to. Maybe just like that. Left click to confirm. Again, let's move
around and you can see the camera has now
been repositioned. Press F 12 to render
that out again. Let me drag that in, that
is looking pretty nice. Let's close this out again. Hit zero again to enter
that camera view. And by the way, if
you have accidentally deleted your camera or you don't have a camera
in the scene, you can simply add
one by pressing Shift and A or coming
into the object menu. And in here you'll find cameras. You can simply add another
camera into your scene. Let me just drag that
up a little bit. And now I have two cameras. Blender wouldn't know
which one to use, however, you can simply select any
camera in your scene, then come up into view cameras and then tell Blender to
use this active object, this actively selected camera as the actual camera
for rendering. Now I'm not going to
change any of that here, I'm just going to select
that other camera, press X and confirm to delete that because I already
have a camera on machine, but I've found some people who accidentally
deleted the camera. And then Blender will say, well, I can't render this because I don't know which camera to use. Now let's go back into the camera view by pressing zero on the Numpad rather than
pressing shift in Tilda. Again, if that's a
bit too difficult, you can also come
up into the header in the three D view and under view you'll find a sub
menu for navigation in here. You can then enable
fly navigation, which is more
steering an airplane. Or walk navigation which
we had on just before. So you can frame
up your objects. I'm actually quite
happy with the framing. What I might do, so I
might grab this monkey, press then X just to move it
a bit closer to the cube. Select that sphere, grab it. Move it around a little bit. Maybe I'll grab it
and press X just to move it a bit closer
to that cube as well. Maybe I'll just move
it down a little bit. Move the monkey down a little
bit as well. Press Shift. Until then, because I'm still in camera perspective to
enable walk navigation, just go in a little bit closer. Right then what I might do
as well as might select the ground press and Y is push the ground
back a little bit. So there's a bit more
background behind this object. Maybe also press
S, scale that up. Now I've got my
camera set up nicely, plenty of space
behind my objects. And if I now hit 122, render this out.
Let's bring this in. And this is a nicely
set up scene. Now, while we've
technically already been rendering our
images and Blender, I do want to cover rendering, how to use cycles for
higher quality renders, and how to save your files to your hard drive in
the next lesson.
15. Rendering & Saving Your Images: In this lesson, let's talk
about rendering your images. And, well, we've kind of
been doing that already because we've been rendering our scene via the render menu. And by the way, the easiest
way to save these images is simply in this render window that you'll get when
you render your scene. Come into Image Select Safe. That is going to bring up
a blender file browser and then you can simply
give your file a name. Let's call this my first
render it safe image. And then if you navigate to
where we save that image, here it is my first rendering. And that is the file that
we've just saved out. Now just very quickly, before we conclude
this tutorial, let's close down
the render window. And let's just move this
out of this screen again. Let's just quickly talk on a few of the render and
output settings that may be relevant
as you're getting set up to render
your first project. In the properties panel, bottom right hand side, by default in your
blender workspace. Come into the output properties. In here, you can
define the resolution, like the width and height
of your final output image. By the way up here,
if you click on that, you've got a bunch of
presets. Very easy to select.
16. MODELLING - SECTION OVERVIEW: Welcome to the next section. Hopefully by now, you understand the basics of how to
work with blender. And you're at a point
where you can start experimenting and exploring
a little bit on your own. But in this section
I want to talk very specifically about how to do
three D modeling in blender. Which essentially
allows you to create any three dimensional object
that you can think of. Now for that, what we will do is we'll take the default cube that comes with
Blender and turn it into a little pirate
treasure chest. And along the way we
will explore all of the editing tools that are
available to you in blender. From adding loop
cuts to beveling to in setting using
different views or proportional editing
or x ray mode to really control how that final three D
object comes together. I will also touch on
a few common pitfalls and things to watch
out for along the way. But again, enough waffling,
let's jump into it.
17. Object Mode vs Edit Mode: Let's finally look
at how we can modify the geometry of your three
D objects and blender. Now in order to learn
about three D modeling, we are going to transform this default cube into
a pirate treasure test. Since for that I don't need to see the camera or the light. Let's come into the outliner
in the top right hand corner of the interface and disable
the visibility for those. Then let's zoom in on the
cube just a little bit. Now in order to modify the actual geometry of the three D objects
within your scene, you need to go into edit mode in the top left hand side
of the three D vehicle, You'll find this
little drop down here. Right now you can see we are on object mode and with
the cube selected. If you pop this open, you can see there's quite a few different modes that
we can switch into. The one we're interested in
right now is added mode. Let's select Added Mode. And in the three
D, you can now see the actual geometry that
makes up the default cue. You may have noticed that
on the left hand side you now also have a whole
bunch of different tools. And we'll touch on some of
them throughout this tutorial. Now another way to go in and out of edit mode is simply
to press the tap key. So let's press Tab. You can see we're back in object mode. The geometry of the
cube has vanished, and when the cube
still selected, press Tab to go
back to edit mode. And let's look at how
we can actually modify the geometry of our default
cube in the next lesson.
18. Editing Vertices, Edges & Faces: Now before we get to create
a pirate treasure test, let's first talk about how
you can use added mode to modify the actual geometry
of your three D objects. Now, all three D geometry
within blender and pretty much any other three
D program that I know of consists of vertices,
edges, and faces. The vertices are all of the corner points on
your three D object. The edges are the lines
that connect them and the faces are visual surfaces that fill in between
these edges. Now in order to select, modify, and work with vertices, edges of faces in the top left inside
on the three DV port. While in added mode you
have three switches. One is vertex selection
mode selection mode, and face selection mode. As you toggle through these, you can see that blender
highlights either the vertices, the edges, or the faces. While in face select mode, you can click on
any of the faces, you can rotate around
to select them. However, you can't select
edges or vertices themselves, you can only select faces. Let's switch this
over to Edge select. Now if you click on an edge, you can now select
individual edges. You can't, however,
select faces or vertices. If you switch over to
vertex select mode, as you may have noticed, you can now select individual vertices. Now to make it really easy to
switch between these modes, you can press key 12
or three unit keyboard to switch from vertex to H
to face selection modes. And we will toggle between
these modes a whole lot. So I highly recommend you do get used to the shortcut keys. They make your life
so much easier. Let's press one on your keyboard to return to vertex select mode. Let's click on any of the
vertices on your cube. You can see it's
highlighted and selected. And if you can
press now for grab, remember from part one
of this total series. You can now move this vertex S before you can
constrain its movement. By pressing X to constrain
its movement on the X, X, Y for the Y Xs or for the
Xs you can also hold Shift, and let's select a couple
of other vertices. Let's select these three here. Press G, and you can move
all of them together. You can press and
scale them out. You can create some
really funky stuff, synonyms to scaling
out those vertices. Control or command and Z will always undo, just
like it did before. Let's press two to
enter edge select mode. Again, the little
edge select icon is highlighted in the top
of the three D view. You can now select
an edge, press grab it and move it again. Hold shift to select a
whole bunch of them. Press and just move them around
in any way that you want. You can also rotate them
once you have edges, you can just rotate edges. You can do all sorts of
crazy stuff to create essentially any three D
object that you can think of. Let's undo that. Let's press three to
enter face select mode. And again, you can select any of the phases of the
cube that you want. Hold on, shift,
select multiple ones. Then you can move scale and rotate them in any
way that you want. Now this should
give you the power to modify existing geometry. However, let's talk
about how you can actually create new vertices, edges, and phases
in the next lesson.
19. Creating & Deleting Vertices, Edges & Faces: In this lesson, we
will look at how you can create and delete vertices, edges, and faces using
added Mode and Blender. To demonstrate this while
still in added mode, let's select the
top of our cube. Press X on your keyboard to
bring up the delete menu. And let's select faces. So we're going to
delete this top face. Now this cube is
essentially open. Let's fill this back in. Let's return to vertex
select mode again, either via the
icon in the top of the three DV or by pressing
one on your keyboard. Let's select two vertices diagonally across
that default cube. And let's press to fill. And then it's going
to create a new edge. Right in the middle
here you can see there's now a new
edge. If you go to edge select mode, you can select it, so that's
our new edge. You can grab it and
move it around, but there's no faces yet, so you can still see through it. In order to create a phase, select all of the
edges that you want to encompass that face and
press to fill in that face. So now we've got half
a phase filled back. Let's select the middle edge, and the ones on the outer sides, press F again to fill that in. And now we're almost back
to the original cube. However, we've added this additional
edge into the middle. Let's get rid of that.
Let's select this edge, make sure you're in
edge select mode. Let's press Extra Deleted. But now rather than
just deleting it, we actually want to dissolve it. And dissolving
essentially removes a vertex edge or face
from your three D model. But it then joins the surrounding
geometry back together. So if Oset dissolve edges, that edge is going
to get deleted, but the phases have been joined, so now we're essentially
back to where we started. That's all well and
good, but chances are you don't want to rely only on these really basic tools to create your three D models. Let's talk about a slightly more advanced tool that allows you to inset or extrude faces
in the next lesson.
20. Insetting & Extruding Faces: In this lesson, we
will look at how to extrude an inset faces to make our default cube
look a little bit more like a pity treasure chest. First of though, let's stretch the cube out a little bit so it looks a little bit more
like a chest than a cube. For that interface, select mode by pressing three
on your keyboard. Select two opposite side on your cube by holding down shift. And I'm going to do
that along the x axis. Press S to scale. Want scale. The
whole thing though. So press X to constrain the movement of those
faces to the X axis. And that's pushed this out
about there looks good to me. And let's create a bit of space to actually put
all our treasure in. So let's select the
top face of this cube. Do make sure that cursor is
not directly over the face, but a little bit off to the
side press to inset the face. And now if you move Uka towards
the center of that face, you can see we're going
to create a little inst, not just bring this
out maybe round, but there left click
to confirm and we have now essentially
created four new faces in. Insert the one in the center. If you press, you can see
this is a new face that got created right click
to cancel that operation. So now I want to push this down to essentially
make this cube hollow. For that we're going
to extrude this face. Now do note that all of the
operations I show you here, you can actually find
in the menu bar on the left if you come into
round about the middle here, there's the Inst faces tool
that be activated via I. Just above that is the
extrude region tool which we're going to do next. But I'm using shortcut keys
because I really want you getting used to shortcut keys because they make your
luck so much easier. Going into the toolbar can be a whole lot more complicated. Make sure the face that
we insert is selected, press to extrude it, and now we can pull this
up to extrude this face. You can also push it down into this cube to create
a bit of hollow space. And I don't want to
push it too far, otherwise it's
going to penetrate the bottom of our
treasure chest. Maybe roundabout there. Let's left click to confirm. Now we've created plenty
of space for our treasure. However, sometimes when
you're inserting faces, it can be hard to tell
where they sit in relation to the rest of
the geometry because, well, you can't
see through them. However, to solve that problem, Blender has a really useful
feature called x ray mode. And let's look at how to use
that in the next lesson.
21. X-Ray Mode: In this lesson, we
will look at how to use x ray mode in blender. Now I have a feeling
that the floor of this chest is still
a little bit high. But it is a bit hard
to see because, well, I don't have x ray vision
however Blender does. In the top right hand
side, on the three D view, you'll find these two
little overlapping squares. This is to enable x ray
mode. Let's click this. Blender is now going to show you an x ray version of
your three D model. And this is super
helpful by the way. The shortcut key for that
is Alt or option and Z to toggle that on or off with
this face still selected. Let's press G to grab it. And we can now move
it around. Press Z to lock it in the Z direction, so we can now bring it down. We can now pull it
down and match it up to exactly where
we want it to sit. Maybe right about there. Let's come out of x ray
mode with all option z. And that looks like plenty
of space for our bounty. Now one thing that is
not ideal with the way we created this insert in
this hollow space within our treasure test is that
the edges on the corner of our treasure chest are
diagonally cutting across. And that's going to trip us off a little bit when
we're building out the edges and embellishing them and they need some
detail to the chest. Let's undo that and do
that slightly differently. Press control or command and Z a couple of times to undo
all of our hard work. And let's do this a
little bit differently. Now, another way to add
more detail geometry to your three object within blender is to use
the Loop cut tool. And let's look at that
in the next lesson.
22. Creating Loop Cuts: Now let's look at how
you can easily add more geometry and more detail
to your three D model. Then blender using
the Loop cut tool, again, you will find it in the menu bound on the
left hand side. Down here it's called loop cut. However, again, shortcut keys. So a cura over your
treasure test, press control or command, and R for loop cut. And as you have a cura close to an edge off of
that treasure test, you can see the blender
now shows you where it would create a new edge cut
around this treasure chest. If you have a the cursor
over on the right hand side, closer to the long edge, you can see that that cut
would go the other way. Make sure that the indicated cut goes round our treasure chest. Click this is going
to insert a new edge that wraps around
this treasure chest into our three D object. And we can now place it. Let's drag this over
to the right hand side and say maybe roundabout. Here is where I want to cut
around my treasure chest. Let's left click to confirm
if you now rotate around. This has inserted a new edge
into our three D model. If you go to edge mode, you can select the edges and you
can move them around. You can come into face
select mode and you can see these ones
are now new faces. We now have more detail
in our cube to work with. Let's do the same thing
on the left hand side. Control or command and R to create another loop, cut, click. And then drag this edge
over to the left hand side. I want it about equal distance as I have it on the
right hand side. Right about there
looks good to me. Let's left click to confirm
that that looks pretty good. By the way, you can
always move these edges. Right now it's actually
still selected. So you can press and then X, and then we can
slide that around so I can move this a
little bit further out. If I think it's gotten
a little bit too close, that looks about right. Let's create two loop
cuts going the other way. Let's rotate our
cube a little bit. Press Control and R. Let's make sure
that three cursor is on the shorter edge
for the treasure chest. So the loop cut will
go the long way. And now before you
place this loop cut, roll up on your mouse wheel to add another loop cut to it. And you can roll
up as much as you want to add lots and
lots of loop cuts, but I really just want the two. So let's left click, you
can slide them around. If you right click,
you're actually just going to place them in
the default position. So simply right click
and they'll both be centered and equally
offset from the middle. And now with both of these edges still selected, let's press, and I don't want to
scale them out that way, let's press Y to lock in
the movement to the y axes. And now push them out, and
I can push them out equally to both sides of
my treasure chest. And again, I was going
to make sure that the corners are kind of square. So that looks pretty good. By the way, let's
click outside of the cube to unselect everything. And let's say you
wanted to re select this entire edge cutting
around this cube. Now in order to select
any edge loops, or even face loops, or your three D objects, Blender has some
really nifty features that make that nice and easy. And let's look at how to use
those in the next lesson.
23. Selecting Edge & Face Loops: In this lesson, we will
look at how you can easily select edge and face loops
on your three D models. Now, while we're still
in edge select mode, you could select the pieces
of this edge and hold on, shifting calf, go around, just re select all of that. And it's going to
take a little bit, but it's not too horrible. But Blender actually gives you a way to really easily select edge loops as well as face loops within
your three D model. Let's click outside of the
cube to unselect everything. And if you now hold
down all option on your keyboard and
you click an edge that is part of an edge loop. You can see that
Blender immediately selects the entire loop. Let's hold Shift and Alt option and click on the
edge on the opposing side. And now I have re
selected both of my edge loops going around
our treasure chest. Let's press three to go
to face select mode. And we can do the exact
same thing with face loops. Again, you could select all
of the faces individually. And if you hold
down shift, you can actually select all
of them together. Or you can hold down alter an option on your
keyboard and click closer to the edge that runs along with the face loop
that you want to select. So at this point here, and I'm now going to
select this entire loop of faces going around the
Queen shift and Alt. Let's click on the other edge here to select this face loop. Going that way, the
first figure is simply going to unselect the
element you have selected. Let's click again and re
select that whole face loop. Now I've got those two
face loops selected. And it makes it really easy to select larger parts
of your model, and there's different
ways to do this as well, but just something
that is super useful, selecting edge loops
as well as face loops. And we will be
using this a little bit throughout the
rest of the tutor. Now, before we move on, I want to quickly touch on a
couple of common pitfalls. In particular, when working with the inset and extrude
features in blender. And again, let's do that
in the next lesson.
24. Common Pitfalls & Problems: In this lesson, I
want to talk about a few common beginner
pitfalls that you might run into when
you're first starting out to model your three
D objects and blender. These often come
from the way you handle extrude and
inset operations. So let's walk into one of
those issues together and then figure out how to fix
them and how to avoid them. Now that we've essentially
just recut our cube, let's create the space for
our treasure to sit in. Let's re select the
top face of our cube. Press key to extrude it. And by the way, if you
right click to cancel this operation that will still
have extruded that face, it will have created
additional faces and edges. However, there is no
distance between them. If you press to move
this face, you can see there's actually additional
geometry been created. It's you didn't move this face. This can lead to
duplicated edges and can make things
really confusing. If you now go into
edge select mode. Select this edge here. I don't know which of the two I selected press to move
that a little bit, I selected the outer one first, but there's another one
that lies on top of it. Do make sure that if you undo an extrude operation
by right clicking, do make sure that you undo until you actually
undid that extrude. So there you go. Now
undid the extrude itself. However, I do actually
want to extrude. So let's press, and
let's move this face down again. I don't quite know how fast, let's just drop it in here. Come to the site,
press Old option and Z to enter x ray mode. Let's press G and Z. With that face still,
select and bring it down just a little
bit more to create our little opening for
all of our gold and treasure old option
to exit x ray mode. Let's make this look a
little bit more interesting. It's still really,
really boring. For that, we will need to
extrude a few more faces. But rather than doing
all of them one by one, let's look at how
you can extrude multiple faces simultaneously
in the next lesson.
25. Extruding Multiple Faces at Once: In this lesson, let's
look at how you can extrude multiple faces on your three D objects
simultaneously to add some more detail
to our treasure chest. Right now, this chest
is still pretty boring, so let's add a little bit of beveling to all of the corners. For that, make sure you're
in phase, select mode. And let's select all
of the corner pieces. Bolt shift to
select all of them. Just the faces on
the outer corners. Our treasure test.
Cool. With all of those selected,
let's extrude them. Let's push them
outwards a little bit. Let's press to extrude. This will not work at all. Let's right click to aboard
this extrude operation. And again, control or command Z to undo the actual
extrude operation. I always like to press
to make sure that, yeah, there's no additional
geometry that got created. Right click to undo that because I don't
actually want to move. Now hold down Alt or Option on your keyboard and press to
bring up the Extrude menu. And in here, you now
have different options for how you actually
want to extrude. The option I want to
pick is I want to pick extrude faces along normals. Let's choose this
option and let's drag. You can now see that
all of the faces are pushing forward in the
direction that they are facing. However, if you push
this really far, you can see it's
still slanted in diagonal and that's because we're not using even thickness. However, while you're doing
this extrude operation, you can press Kevo to enable even thickness or
press Sigin to disable it, but I want it enabled
the thickness of the extrude all around
is going to be even. Let's just bring
this out a little bit, maybe roundabout there. Let's left click to confirm. We've now added just a little
bit of bevel all around the treasure chestnuts looking just a little bit less plain. By the way, if you're
wondering what normals even are, don't worry. Let's talk about them in a bit more detail
in the next lesson.
26. Understanding Normals: In this lesson, I want to
talk about what normals are and why they are so
important to three D modeling. Normals are vectors in
three D space like errors or directions that face
outwards from the faces, but they also face outwards from the vertices of
your three D model. And quite a lot of operations do take the direction of your
normals into account. It's useful to know
what they are. You can also visualize
them in the three D, come up to the top
right hand corner into this little
overlays and drop down. Let's pop this open and
down here on the bottom you can enable the normals
and show them on the model. So let's enable the
vertex normals. You can see all of
these little lines coming out of the
vertices of your model, that those are the normals, the directions in which
that geometry is facing. Let's bring the
overlays panel back up. You can enable split vertices, which is kind of the combination
of the joining point between different edges
where the vertex meet. So you can see all of the
individual parts that make up that combined direction or you can enable the
normals for the pass. You can see the direction
those phases are while facing. So if you press
Alt option and E, and you say extrude
along normals, those are the normals
that those operations are talking about and that's the direction that those
operations will be effective in. Let's come back into
the overlays and let's disable all
of the normals. But, you know, it's
just useful to know in case something goes really weird and you don't
know what's going on. It may be that your normals
are just a little bit weird and something new
model needs fixing up first. But for now, let's add a
little bit more detail to our treasure test
using the tools that we've talked about
in this section so far. But again, let's do all of that together in the next lesson.
27. Selecting Hidden Geometry: In this lesson, let's
look at how we can select hidden geometry
while modeling. So you can more easily tweak your three D models for that. Let's give the center column of our treasure chest a little bit more of a stylized
angled look For that, let's return to
vertex select mode. You can actually box
select vertices and edges. You can just click and drag
to box select vertices, shift to select a
whole bunch of them. And I want to select these ones, but I didn't select
the one down here because I can only vertices
I can actually see. However, what you can do is
you can enable x ray mode. And in x ray mode you will
select through the geometry. Right. Now, for example,
let's unselect everything. Let's on one side of the scheme, Dragon selected the vertices at the top of that center panel. Hold on, shift, drag, select the ones at the
bottom of the panel. If you now rotate around, you can see really only
selected the front ones, the ones I could actually see. Let's do that again.
But let's press Alt option and Z to
enable x ray mode. And I can now see through
this object again. Let's box select the
ones at the top. Let's rotate around a
little bit to align this a little bit better
if you're finding it challenging to select the same geometry on both
sides of your three D models. You can switch your
three D view to be orthographic rather
than perspective. Let's go over what that
even means and how to use this feature
in the next lesson.
28. Orthographic Views: Let's talk about
orthographic views in blender and how
to change what you see in the three D view so you can more easily work with
your three D models. Right now, our three
D view is showing us a perspective view similar
to how your eyes work, where objects that are
further away appear smaller. However, sometimes when
working in three D, it's nice to see a flat
to the projection of our objects so that we can work with them a little
bit more easily. In Blender, it's
actually really easy to switch between those
different views. For that, you can press five on your numpad as looks a
little bit funny by the way. You can also toggle it
with this little switch on the right hand side
of the three D view. Then let's press on E to come into front
view of this cube. And again, you can
also click onto these little circles here, rotate around your cube. Can't just want to
have a front on view. Do make sure that you
have x ray mode enabled. Let's just click to
unselect everything. Let's click and make select
everything at the top. Hold Shift, click and
make select all of the vertices at the bottom
of that center panel. I'm going to select a few more. If I now click and drag around, I'm going to return
to perspective view, and you can see all of the
vertices I've selected and I've selected
through my geometry. Let's press to scale this down and X to constrain
the movement. And let's just bring that in. May be round about there. If you now exit x ray mode, see that we've added
this much more interesting looking
slant to the panel. Now I'm finding it not
quite extreme enough. And x again, let's bring
this in just a little bit more and actually
might add a bit of an extra slant to the
ones at the very bottom. Again, press five to go
into orthographic view. Press one to enter front view. Let's unselect
everything and it's old option and Z to make
sure we're X remote, box select the
very bottom and X, let's just bring that in
just a little bit more. Let's just come out of X
remote and check this out. Yeah, I think that looks a
whole lot more interesting. Next, let's add a little bit
more detail to these columns on the corner just to make them look a little
bit more interesting. For that, we are
going to talk about the Bevel tool and blender
in the next lesson.
29. Bevelling Edges: Let's talk about how
you can easily add bevels to the edges of your
three D objects and blender. Let's return to edge, Select mode by pressing two
on your keyboard. And let's select the very corner edges along our treasure chest. Hold on shift to
select all of them. Let's just rotate around. Let's select those ones as well. And again, those ones,
let's add a bit of a bevel. Again, you will find the Bevel tool in the tool by itself, but control or command and B will give you the same effect. Let's drag out and this is
going to create a bevel. Again, you can roll
your mouse wheel up to add more detail into
that bevel itself. I'm going to keep
it fairly low fi. I want to make sure that the
bevel is quite even as well. Left click to confirm
and let's just add it a little bit of a rounded
bevel, those columns. Let's return to
face select mode. I'm going to now select the
faces on the outer edge of those columns
as well as the one on the inner edge right there. Let's make sure I select the same faces for
all columns all around my treasure chest with all of these edges
selected Alt or option. And to extrude the faces
along the normals. And I'm going to bring
this in just a little bit. Again, press for even thickness. It just looks a
little bit nicer. Let's left click to confirm
that looks pretty cool. Now the last thing
I'm going to do is I'm going to bring in
the bottom vertices. This. Pull them in a little
bit so it feels like there's a bit of a bend at the bottom of this
treasure chest. Again, let's return to orthographic view
by pressing five. You numpad or again using the
switch in the three D view, one for front view, old option and Z to return to x ray mote and as
box like adjust the vertices at the
bottom press and let's scale them in
just a little bit. Let's come out of
orthographic view, old option Z to reto
off x ray mote. That actually looks pretty cool. Now the last thing
that's missing is really just a logo or
something that's cut into the front of the
treasure chest to make sure that nobody else
touches our bounty. For that, we can use the
knife tool to essentially cut any shape we want into any part of our
geometry that we wish. Let's look at that
in the next lesson.
30. The Knife Tool: In this lesson,
we're going to look at how to use the knife tool to cut new edges into our
three D objects at will, In our case, to
cut a three D logo into the front of
our treasure chest. What I'm going to
do is I'm going to return to orthographic view by pressing five on the numpad
one to go into front view. Let's zoom in just a little bit. Let's selected the knife tool by pressing K on the keyboard. And you can now click and
drag to essentially cut a shape of any form in any
way you want into this face. Make sure you close to shape at the very end and then
press Enter to confirm. If you now come out
what has happened. We've now essentially sliced our face and cut
this shape into it. You can use the knife
tool to cut all sorts of geometry across your
cube in any way that you want it entered to confirm and blender is
going to essentially cut up your object
the way you've defined it. Now let's undo that. It's pretty messy.
It's not quite what I wanted and this logo
ain't great either, even if it's a nice
phase that we could now extrude or do all sorts
of other things with. Let's undo all of that and let's talk about how you can
use reference images and blender to overlay onto
our treasure test so that we can carve a much nicer looking logo
into our model. And it's always. Let's do
that in the next lesson.
31. 3.17 Using Reference Images: Let's talk about
how you can easily import and use reference images and blender to assist you with your three D
modeling tasks. Again, let's return
to orthographic view by pressing five on the Numpad. Press one on the
Numpad for front view. Let's press tab to
exit edit mode. And we're not going to bring
in an Explorer window or a finder window with
an image of a skull. I'm going to drag and drop
that into my three D view. I'm not going to drop
it on the cube itself. Just going to drop it slightly left off the treasure chest. That's going to bring that
image directly into blender. Let me just get rid of
that finder window. You can click it to
the middle and drag it over the chest, but
it's way too bigger. It's also sitting
behind everything in the outliner that just
get imported as an empty. Just double click that and call this one skull in the
Properties panel. Coming to the little image tab here under the Properties
for this placeholder image, I want to change
the depth to front. It's going to sit in front
of my treasure chest. I'm going to enable opacity and lower that to maybe 50% so I can actually see
through it with the skull selected press
S. And that's the scale, this down, maybe,
right about there. Press G to place it. We're just going to use this as a placeholder so we know how
to cut with our knife tool. Let's re select our
treasure chest. Might actually rename this as
well to be Treasure Chest. Press Tab to return
to edit mode. Press for the knife tool. Now more essentially
cut around the skull. Make sure you close
that loops to confirm, let's use the knife tool
again and let's cut out the press for the
knife tool again. And let's just cut
the eyes out as well. Just roughly. I reckon
it look cool enough. Let's do that for the
left eye as well. Let's exit orthographic view to hide the skull image as well. Now essentially cut a skull face into the front of
our treasure chest. Let's come to select mode. Like all of the pieces of the
skull we want to extrude, press E. Let's just
push the skull in. I'm just going to insert
that just a little bit. We now have a really
cool skull I can cut into the front of
our treasure chest. Let's press tab to
exit Edit mode. And the base of our treasure
chest is now completed. However, right now
we have no lid. Let's talk about how we
can create a lid for our pirate treasure chest
in the next lesson.
32. Adding Additional Objects: In this lesson, let's add a
lid to our treasure chest. Now we could model out
and add the geometry for the Lit for treasure chest to the very same object in blender. But because you may want to
animate the lid separately, let's create it as
a separate object. Let's add another cube
into our scene by pressing Shift and
A and under Mesh. Let's simply select Cube, press G and Z. Let's drag this up. The lid car sits on top of the treasure chest right
there in our outliner. Let's rename this
one to Lit with the lidsteelectedressap
To go into added mode, first select both sides
of the lid press and X, and let's scale this
out so that the lid matches the size of the
treasure chest underneath. And I wanted to just cover the opening in the
chest underneath it. I'm actually going to
select both sides as well. Press and y scale them in a little bit because
we're going to add some levels around
the edges of the lid. I don't want it to be poking
over the treasure chest, but we can always scale it
down a little bit later. Anyways, that looks pretty good. Let's go into edge
selection mode by pressing two knee keyboard control or command and R to
add an edge loop. And I want to cut around
the long side of the lid. Left click to confirm and
then simply right click to not slide the edge and place
it right down the center. With the edge still selected, let's level it out by
pressing control or command. And let's move our cursor away from the edge to
create the actual level. Let's roll up on
the mouse wheel to add a whole bunch
of faces to that. I want a fair amount, Maybe 2030 ad as many as you want to. And I'm going to place
them so that they're evenly spaced on the lid itself. That looks pretty good, but it's still just
the box on a box. I now want to add some
shape to the lid, so it comes up, curves around and it comes back
down on the other side. For that we're going
to have to move the vertices on the
top of this lid. And for that you can use a
really useful feature blender called proportional editing. And let's talk about how that
works in the next lesson.
33. Proportional Editing: In this lesson, I
want to talk about a super useful feature in Blender called
proportional editing. Now we've created some
geometry for our lid, but we still have to
shape it by moving all of these vertices in place to create the actual
shape of the lid. Let's press one to go
into vertex select mode. And here are now
all the vertices. And you can select them
individually and move them down into position and it's going
to be really horrible. What I really want
to do is I want to evenly shift them down on the right side
and the left side from the center vertex here. And for that we're going to use something called
proportional editing. Let's jump into side on orthographic view by pressing
three on the numpad. Again, if you don't
have an ipad, simply use the navigation gizmo here on the right hand side and the little toggle here
to switch between perspective and
orthographic views, press Alt or Option and Z. So we can select through our
geometry and then box select the center vertices
or the center vertex if you have a single
one at the top of the lid. If you now press and Z, you can move this down but we're not moving any
of the other vertices. Let's right click to
cancel that operation. At the top of your three D view, you have this little
target bull's eye in here which enables
proportional editing. Let's enable
proportional editing. And what this will
do is that any operation that you perform on a vertex edge or face
affect vertices, edges and faces that are nearby. It's like a fall off effect, like light falling off surrounding geometry will be
affected by that operation. With those vertices
still selected, press G. You will now
see a wide circle, and this is the
circle of influence. You can make the circle bigger
by rolling down on mouse, will you can make it
smaller by rolling up. And if you can't see the circle,
maybe it's just too big. So make sure you can
actually see it. Now as I move my vertices, you can see how I'm affecting
neighboring vertices. Now what I'm actually
going to do is actually going to cancel this operation. I'm going to box the vertex
on the top left hand side. Hold on shift box, select
the top right hand side. And the reason I'm box selecting
is so that I'm selecting the vertex on the opposite
side of the lid as well. Let's press G again to grab press Z to lock the movement to the z
axes and now pull down. You can now see how I'm
influencing these vertices. Let's roll our mouse wheel up or down to give the
lid a different shape. I want it a little bit
round it here again. Just give it any
shape that you want. I think that actually
looks pretty cool. Left click to confirm that looks pretty good but the
lid is still pretty tall. Sum is going to box select
all of the vertices at the top and let's just bring
that down a little bit. Let's return to orthographic
and check this out. That actually looks pretty cool with all of these
vertices still selected, let's press and Z
to scale this up. While now I'm affecting
the bottom as well, I don't want to proportionally
edit this anymore. Right click disabled
proportional editing. Press S and Z. I going to
scale off the top of that lid, just make it a
little bit steeper. Give it a little bit more
for dramatic feeling. Maybe G and C. Just move
it up a little bit. This kind like a really spiky, you can make it fatter and do whatever you want with this. Let's exit x ray
mode and let's add some levels in detail around
the edges of the lid. However, since we place the
lid on top of our base, it's actually really
hard to see the edges. Fortunately, Blender has a
feature called Local View that allows us to focus on the object that we
actually working with. Let's talk about how to use Local view in the next lesson.
34. Local View: Now right now, I can't
actually see the bottom of the lid because the base of the treasure test
is still visible. However, blender has a really cool feature called local view, which will essentially hide everything except the
currently selected object. For that, simply press the
forward slash on your numpad. Blender will zoom in on that object and hide
everything else. We're now in local view. You can see in the
top left corner here, it says user perspective
in local view. By the way, to toggle
in and out of this, just press that forward
slash on the num pad again. You can also come into view
and then select Local view. Just go to local view.
Does the exact same thing. Now I can work with
the lid separately and once I'm done just it, local view just makes
it nice and easy. Let's go into H select mode. Press control or command R, and let's place some
more edge loops. I want two edge loops,
equally spaced, left click and then just right click to leave them in
that default position. Let's press and X, and let's push these edges
out towards the corner. I want fairly thick bezels, but again, just do
this however you like. Let's just place them
right about there. I'm imagining two
additional lines of metal running around the
center of the lit here. Let's control R one more time. I'm going to add four
edges this time, left click, right click to just leave them
where they are. Let's press and X and scale
them in just a little bit. Maybe down until there. And I'm going to push the ones on the right
hand side over. I only want to select the
loops on the right hand side. Again, remember how
to select edge loops. Hold Alt or Option, and click on the edge to
select the whole loop. Shift and click
on the other one. Now selected both of
these edge loops. Four, Grab and X to move
it along the X, X seasons. Just push this out a
little bit to make it a bit easier to evenly
align these ones. Let's go into top down view. And you can press
seven on the Numpad or just click the
little gizmo here. Let's go to Top View.
That looks pretty good. So now I can clearly see
how I'm moving them. And X, just move them
out just a little bit. Let's select the other
two edges alton option and click on the Edge Shift.
Click on the other one. We now selected those two this
time let's press seven on the Numpad to return into the top view and X and
let's move them out. Let's just make sure
they're equal distance from the center
as the other one. And that looks pretty good. Let's level all of
these phases out. Let's return to
Face Select mode. You know how to do this already. Hold down Alt option and
click closer to the edge. Running the long
side of these faces. We select that
phase loop around. Let's do the same
with the other ones. Holding down Shift to
select all of them. Press Alt to extrude, and let's select extrude
faces along normals. And let's just push them out a little bit to add a bit
of a bezel right there. That looks pretty cool. I'm also going to
add a little bit of extrude around these loops here. Let's hold down Alt or
Option on keyboard, and let's click on this
face here to select that face loop around the
outer edge of that lid. Hold down Shift and let's do
the same on the other side. It looks pretty good. Old option and extrude
faces along normals. Let's just push that out
again just a little bit. That's coming together
pretty nicely. While local view is
awesome for focusing in on a single object while
you're working on it, sometimes you may have
to dig even deeper and hide parts of a
model temporarily. Let's look at how
you can hide and of course unhide parts of your Three D model
in the next lesson.
35. Hiding & Unhiding Parts of Your Model: In this lesson, let's go
over how you can hide and unhide parts of
your three D models while you're working on them. Now if you rotate around this
lid and look at the bottom, you'll notice that
while the lid is solid, there's no hollow
shape underneath it. While that could be okay
for some treasure chest, I just want to make
some extra space for our gold and our treasure. And you can now select all of these faces
if you wanted to. You can also box select
them if you wanted to, and they extrude them in
to make some space there. But there's a
slightly easier way by proportionally editing only the parts that we actually
want to insert upwards. However, because
right now if you proportionally edit any
part of this geometry, if were to enable
proportional edit, select just a couple of phases. Press G and C to move
them up and down. The whole box, including
the metal framing, will bulge up and down and
it's not quite what I want. Let's disable
proportional editing. Again, what I'm going to do
is I'm actually going to box select all of the pass
that we're going to insert. Make sure you're not accidently selecting
any on the side. Hold on shift. Do the
same on this side. Let's do the same, let's rotate around a little
bit on that side. So these are all of
the faces except for that one that I want
to insert and push up. The other thing I want
to do is I actually want to select a few on
the top just so that we can see the boundary of
how far we can push them up. What I'm going to do, I'm just going to select a
couple here at the top, maybe just the top four on either side and the
one at the very top. We're not going to modify them, but when I'm pushing
up the bottom, I want to see the
faces at the top. And we're not going to hide everything that is not selected. Now if you select an
object or any part of your geometry and press
H on the keyboard, you're going to hide
those elements. That's not what we want. You can unhide anything
you've accidentally or deliberately hidden by
pressing Alt or Option and H, that's going to bring that back. You can hide everything
that is not selected by pressing Shift and
H. So let's do that. And that's what I want. I just want to see the faces that I want
to insert and push up, but I also want to see
the boundary of how far I can push those up to now. With the set up, let's return to sit on orthographic view, either by pressing three
on the numpad or by clicking on the little X icon
in the gizmo right here. So now we're in
the site on view. Let's press one to show
all of the vertices. Now I want to box select again the center two vertices
or the single vertex. If that's how you
created your geometry. Let's re enable
proportional editing and rotate around a little bit. I only selected the
front two because I didn't have x ray mode enabled, but I can actually just
select them all here. Let's make sure we
selected all of the center vertices there. Let's come out a little bit. Press and Z. Let's push this up now. Don't actually want to
affect the top of the Lit. Let's roll down the circle of influence and push
this up right here. That looks pretty good. And
I can push this up as far as I want to without penetrating
through the top of the Lit. And that's why I'm
showing the top geometry, so I can just see
how far that goes. If you can't quite see
what's happening here, let's just click press three on the Numpad to go to site
on autographic view. That actually looks pretty good. And Z, again, I don't
want to effect too much, so let's make range of
influence even smaller. I'm just really affecting
those last two vertices. Let's push that up
to almost the top. Let's come back out and
that looks pretty good. Now let's press Alt or Option H to unhide all of the geometry, and let's check out the
bottom of our treasure chest. Now all of the areas between the metal
framing has been Insert, and none of the other
ones were affected. And that's because we hit
all of the other geometry. Blender only affected
the geometry that we could actually see. Let's zoom out a little bit. Press tab to exit edit mode. And we can't see the bottom of our chest because we're
still in local view. Either come into view local
view and toggle local view, or press numpad forward slash and again, shortcut
keys, everyone. And with that we're done. We created this really
interesting looking treasure test out of nothing but two
basic cubes in Blender. Once you add some light, set up your camera and
render this out, this actually looks pretty cool. I hope this part of the course gave you a good overview of the basic modeling tools that are available to you in Blender. There's a ton more that I encourage you to explore
and experiment with, but hopefully this was
enough to get you started and excited about creating
your own three D models. If you stay around over
the next few lessons, we're going to look at how
you can add materials to your three D models
to make them look a little bit less naked.
36. MATERIALS - SECTION OVERVIEW: Oh, you made it this far and see what you
had to put up with. Now, hopefully you're
comfortable with creating a modifying three
D objects in blender, but they still
look pretty plain. Because we haven't really
touched too much on how to work the materials other
than a little bit in the very first section
of this course. So in this section, I
really want to talk about how to create
modified work, the materials in blender. That means customizing them to have a certain
metallic or wooden, or marble, or semi
transparent look. How to assign them
to your models or share them between
models or how to assign different materials
to the same three D model. We'll also quickly
touch on how to enable screen space
for reflections in EV, which will really
allow you to take your three D models to the
next level. But again, enough talking.
Let's jump into it.
37. The Material Properties Panel: Here we are back in Blender, and this is where we ended up at the end of the last
part of this course. We modeled this pity looking treasure chest
complete with Lit on top from scratch using the basic modeling tools
available in Blender. If you do want to
start from here, you can also find this project filed in the course materials, so you don't have to
model this yourself. Now in this scene, I've just
done a couple of clean ups. For one, I've created this references collection
that now contains the image of the skull stencil that
we used to create that skull logo on the front
of the treasure chest. And I've added a scene
collection that just contains a ground plane
and a couple of lights. Now obviously you can
set this up yourself, but if you do want to start
out exactly where I am, you will be able to download
this file from our website. So simply go to Surface
Studio.com forward slash downloads and you
will be able to grab this very file and follow along. Now if you come up
into the top right, inside of your three
view and switch this over to rendered shading mode, you can see this is quite
a nice little set up. However, our treasure
test is really storing dull default gray. And that's because we
haven't really added any materials to make this
look any more interesting. So let's look at how you can work with the
materials and blender and assign them to all
or parts of your models. For that, make
sure that the base of your treasure
test is selected. Then come over to
the right insider to the properties panel and come to this little sphere
icon down here, which is the material tap. Let me just make that a
little bit bigger for you. And there's quite a lot of stuff in the material tap,
don't worry about it. We're going to go
through quite a lot of this in this tutorial, but don't worry, you'll learn
the rest as you go along. Now let's look at
how you can modify existing materials and
blender in the next lesson.
38. Modifying Existing Materials: In this lesson, we will
look at how we can modify existing
materials in blender. For now, let's come to the
top of the material tab. Either by using your mouse
wheel or clicking and holding the middle mouse button, you can just drag around. And at the very top,
you should be able to see that there is a material
assigned to this box. The material is actually
literally called material. In contrast, if we select the
lid in our three D scene, suddenly the material
panel is all empty. And that's because on the lid, we don't have a
material assigned yet. And the reason for
that difference is that we crafted the base of our treasure test out of the default cube that came in our default
scene in blender. And that had a default material material already assigned to it. If you reselect the lid, there's nothing there because we don't have a material on it yet. But don't worry, we'll
deal with that later. Let's reselect the base
of our treasure chest. There's this material
assigned. It's gray. You can see a little
preview here. A little gray circle icon. It is called Material. You can actually come into
this name field right here. You can click on
that and you can actually change the
name of this material. Let's call this one
Default Underscore Matt, and you can see
the name changed. Now the material
that is assigned to this box is
called Default Mat. On the left hand side
here you have pop up this little material
browser in Blender. This will show you all of
the materials that you have in your senior that
you can select from. Right now, we only
have our default mat in the scene, so
let's click on that. This is going to reselect
it, and nothing will change. But let's actually
make some changes to this material to alter
the way it looks. Let's come down in here, You'll find tons of
property for how this material looks and how
it interacts with light. And there's a bunch of other
stuff we can do in here. For now, let's simply change this base color here from white. Let's just click on this,
brings up a color picker. Let's just change
this to maybe a yellow or orange or green
or whatever you like. You can immediately
see that being reflected in the three
D viewport on the left. So now the base of our chest
is that particular color. It is yellow, which
is what we've selected as the base color. Now if you can see this change in your three D view where
you're expecting it, make sure that your three
D view is set to render shading mode or potentially to preview mode.
Let's click on that. You can also see
materials in here. Now the lighting is all
different because you're getting default seen lighting to make
it easy to see materials. However, if you are
in solid shading mode or in wireframe mode, you will not be able to even see that material if
nothing changes. Make sure you're in rendered shading mode for this tutorial just so that you
can see the change being reflected
immediately there. Now that you know about
how to modify materials, how do you go about
actually assigning them to different three
D models in your scene? Let's check out how that
works in the next lesson.
39. Assigning Materials: Let's have a look at
how you can assign materials to the three D
objects in your scene. And don't worry, this is
actually super easy now. I don't like that. My
lid is still gray. Let's select the lid. Over in the Material tab on the right hand side in
the properties browser. There's nothing here right now. We have no material
assigned to it. And we can now either
click the big new button to create a new material
and assign it to the lid. Or let's come to the left hand side to the material browser. Let's pop that open In. Here we have our default mat. It indicates it's now
a yellow material because we changed the
color. Let's select that. Now we also have the default mat assigned to the lid of our box, and that's yellow as well. Now, it is important to know
that if you now come down in here and change this base color from yellow to anything else, let's change it to maybe
like a light green. That will change the color
of the lid and the base. You're changing the material
itself and that material is assigned to both of
these models in our scene. Changes you make to the
material will be applied to all instances of that material
within your three D scene. Now before we get to creating
new materials from scratch, I do want to quickly
go over some of the most important material properties that
you have available within lender so you have
a better idea of how you can tweak materials to look exactly the way
you want them to. It's always, let's get into
that in the next lesson.
40. Material Properties Explained: In this lesson, we will go over the key material
properties in Blender so you get a better
understanding of how they affect the way
your material looks. And you can more
easily tweak them to get the look
that you're after. Now let's zoom in on our
chest just a little bit more. And let's talk about some of
these properties here that you can tweak to change the look and field
of your material. We talked about
base color already, which really is just the primary
color for your material. Now underneath that, you
will find subsurface, subsurface radius and
subsurface color. Let's just skip over them
for just a few minutes. We'll come back to them
in just a little bit. Let's just move on to
the metallic property. And as the name suggests, this controls how metallic
your material will look. Now you can either just click into this field
and type a value, or I actually prefer to simply
left click and hold into it and then just drag what's the right to
increase this value. And you can see on the
left hand side how this changed the look
and feel of material. It now actually looks
like a piece of metal. Now it's a little
bit hard to see. So what I'm going to
do is I'm going to select the lid right click, and select a shade smooth. And that's going to essentially render all of the corners round. And it doesn't look
realistic right now, don't worry about it. I just want to be able to show you these highlights and how this material really responds to us changing these properties. So you can see this is now a metallic version
of this material. If you click and decrease
the metallic property, again, just looks more plastic. The next property underneath
metallic is specular, which controls the amount of specular reflection
in that material. And that's just the highlights. Right now you can see these
white highlights here. If you increase the specularity, you'll see that those
highlights get stronger. If you reduce that to zero, all of these little shiny
highlights will vanish. Let's just jack that
up to maybe 0.8 or so. Now we've got this really nice reflective highlights here. Obviously you need
some strong lights and you've seen as well to
see these highlights, Otherwise there's no light to really reflect
underneath specular, you have the specular tint. This value controls right now. All of these reflection have the color of the light
that they reflect. However, if you increase
the speculate tint, these highlights will
change the color towards the base color that we have assigned
to our material. If I reject the speculate
tint all the way up to one, you can see that
now the color of all these highlights actually matches our base
color and is not controlled by the lights
that it reflects. Let's bring the speculate
tint back down to zero. Just a really nice
way for you to control the color
of your highlights. The next property is roughness, which well controls the
roughness of your material. What happens if you
lower the roughness? So have a look at all of these
specular highlights here. If I lower the
roughness down to zero, you can see how now the
material looks like. It's like squeaky
clean, super flat. There is super smooth
and reflective. It's almost like glass
or like a mirror. As I bring up this
roughness value, you can see that all of
these highlights get more and more diffuse
and softened out. And it now feels like
a more rough material, there's less reflections in it, it's just a whole
lot more diffuse. Let's just lower the
roughness back down to maybe 0.3 or 0.4 Actually, maybe I'll lower it
down just a little bit more to 0.2 I want strong highlights
because next let's talk about anisotropy or anisotropic. I don't know how to
say this properly. The anisotropic
property controls how elongated your specular
highlights in the material are. Right now they're pretty
round ish, right? So let's bring the
anisotropy up to one and nothing at all happens and I think EV doesn't
properly support this, so let's lower that
right back down to zero. Come into the render properties
in our properties panel. Let's change the
render engine from V over to cycles for
just a little bit. I also going to change
my device from P to GPU Compute to make the most
of my computer's hardware. Let's come back into the
material tab once again. Let's increase this
anisotropic property from zero to maybe 0.4 or five. Can you see how these specular
highlights now get longer? Let's just check this
up all the way to one. You can see how
you're now getting these really long streaks rather than round
specular highlights. And that is what
anisotropy controls. The anisotropic rotation then controls how much rotation
is in this elongation. Let's jack this up to maybe 0.5, 0.6 And you can see how they
are being twisted around. And you can play
with this to get whatever look and feel you want, but let's bring the rotation
back down to zero and the isotropic property
down to zero as well. Let's come back into
the render properties and switch our engine back to V. Let's again return into
the materials properties. Next let's talk about Sheen. This property adds like a soft, velvety like reflection, particularly to the edges
of your three geometry. And it's really good
for cloth which has like those really
soft and velvety edges. Keep your eyes on
these edges here along the trim of our
treasure chest lid. Let's bring up the sheen. And there might be a
little bit hard to see because our material
is quite bright. So I'm going to come up
into the base color, make sure this is a little
bit darker just for the purpose of showing
this particular property. Again, just keep an eye on the edge right here as
I bring up the sheen. Can you see how that just
adds a little bit of high light to these edges here? And this is much
better for cloth. It doesn't really make sense
in this particular scenario, but it just adds that sheen and velvety reflections to
the edges of your model. Again, mainly used for cloth. And underneath the
sheen you have a sheen tint which similar
to the specular tints, tints those highlights in the
base color of our material. If you lower this, there
should become a bit more white because it's reflecting
mainly white light. But if you bring the sheen
tint up all the way to one, it turns green because that is the base color of our material. But for now, let's reduce
the sheen back to zero. And the sheen tint
back to zero as well because we won't really be
needing it for this scenario. Might also come back
into the base color. Let's bring up the brightness
a little bit more. Again, just looks a little bit more
friendly. Not so drab. Let's come down a little bit further and underneath
the sheen tint, you will find the clear
code property for that. Again, have a look at
these reflective areas here along the edge of the lid. Let's increase the
clear code property. I'm not sure that
you can see this. Let me just zoom in
a little bit more. Can you see how there's now a small additional highlight on top of the base
specular highlight? Clear code essentially adds an additional specular layer
on top of your material. And this is great
for things such as car materials that
have a layer of lacquer or wax on top that creates additional
shininess and reflections. Clear code roughness
then controls the roughness of that
additional shiny layer. So keep an eye on this small, additional high light here. The more you jack this
value up, the more diffuse. These additional
specular highlights in your clear code
layer will become, again, super useful for
extremely shiny materials. But for now, let's bring
the clear code as well as the clear code roughness
properties back down to zero. Ior is index of refraction, which is only relevant
once you start working with
translucent materials, which is something we might
touch on a little bit later. Transmission and
transmission roughness, again, let's skip over. Emission allows you to add light emission or glow
to your materials. Alpha is for transparency. Again, don't worry about
all of this too much. For now though, I
do encourage you to just play around
an experiment. Now one property I've skipped over that I actually
do want to touch on a little bit more detail is
subsurface scattering again. Let's look at that
in the next lesson.
41. Subsurface Scattering: In this lesson, we will look
at subsurface scattering, which is a super useful material property that
allows you to create translucent materials for
things such as skin or marble, Which is likely also
why this property is so high up in the
material properties list. Now let's zoom out just
a little bit more. Right now, our treasure
chest is pretty green. But in particular, the surface feels really hard and solid. It feels like a solid material. Subsurface scattering,
as the name suggests, simulates the behavior of
light to penetrate into object with a soft surface
like skin or marble, and then scatter within
that object and create this translucent effect like the material isn't fully solid. With our green lid selected. Then do make sure
that it is green, like maybe the color of jade. Let's come to the
subsurface property and let's increase that
just a little bit to maybe 0.2 Now this actually looks much
more like jade because light now penetrates into the
surface and you're getting scattering of light
happening just underneath the top
layer of that surface. And it's starting to
look translucent. The more you jack up
subsurface scattering, the more the light
essentially penetrates into this object and scatters
underneath its surface. The subsurface radius
controls how far the red, green, and blue components
of that light scatter. Right now, my red channel. The red light travels further, which is why the
subsurface scattering kind of has a bit
of a reddish tint. If I lower this red
value here to maybe 0.2 0.1 suddenly the color of that subsurface
highlight has changed, because maybe I'll
change them all to 0.1 Now it's gray because red, green, and blue travel
the same distance. If I wanted that subsurface
highlight to be a bit bluish, I could bring this last one, red green, the blue one, up to maybe 0.5 now got this bluish subsurface scattering
highlight happening. You also have an
additional property called subsurface color. If you change this to maybe like a pinkish or maybe
a yellowish color, that's the general
color that light will take on by penetrating through the
surface of your object. The stronger you make this, the more of that color
will come through. And if you reduce the subsurface again so you can still see
a little bit of it again, it's just more visible
along the edges. But that's what
subsurface scattering does and you can play with this. You can create some really
cool and trippy effects, all sorts of semi
transparent and translucent marble
skin flash materials. It's pretty exciting and I'm really happy that EV
does support that, as well as cycles. Next, let's actually leverage
our new knowledge on material properties to start creating materials for
our treasure chest, for metal and for wood. Let's get into that
in the next lesson.
42. Designing a Metallic Material: In this lesson, we will tweak our current weird
greenish material to look like metal or steel
so that we can use it for the metal parts
of our treasure chest. Let's select the lid and the
bottom of the box and press Delete or Full Stop on your Numpad key to frame
the selected objects. We can assume out and
rotate around them. If you don't have a numpad, don't press the wrong delete
key. Simply come up to view. Frame selected does
the exact same thing, it just focuses in on
the selected objects. Let's come back out. Let's select the bottom
of our treasure test. Make sure you're in the Material tab in the Properties Editor. Let's come to the very top and
let's rename this material from default mat to metal. Matt is going to give my
treasure test a metallic base. Let's go through the
process base color. I certainly do not want
this to be green in here. I'm actually going
to lower this S the saturation
value down to zero. I'm back to grains, going to make this just a little bit darker, maybe
somewhere there. I'm also going to bring the
subsurface back down to zero because I want this
to be nice and solid and that looks a
whole lot better already. Next let's jack up the
metallic property to maybe 0.6 0.7 specular around
the 0.8 specular tint, I'm actually going
to leave on zero. I'm quite happy with the
color of the light being reflected in the highlights
on that material. Come down a little
bit, make sure your roughness is quite low. Maybe 0.2 I want that
to be fairly shiny, so you can see the reflection of the lights in the edges
of that material. Everything else is pretty
much just down to zero. So that looks pretty good to me, but it doesn't make sense that the entire box is
made from metal. So let's actually create a new material that we can use for the wooden parts
of our treasure chest. And let's do that
in the next lesson.
43. Creating New Materials: In this lesson, let's
finally talk about how you can actually create new
materials on blender. You've already
learned how to modify existing materials and assign them to your three the models. But it'd be pretty
silly if you were stuck with just one material
for your entire seam. Let's create a new
material that we can use for the wooden parts
of our treasure chest. Let's select the lid
in the material tab. Let's come to the very top. I don't want to
make any changes to this material
because otherwise I will also make changes to how the base of my
treasure chest looks. Instead, I want to
assign a new material to the lid that I can make
independent changes to. For that in the
material properties on the right hand
side of the name, you'll find this little
duplicate icon here. And that's actually
new material. If you click this kin, we're going to create
a new material. You'll see the name has
changed to Metal matt 001. Metal matt 001 is now
assigned to our lid. And if you pop open
the material browser, you now have two materials. One called metal
mat which is the one assigned to the
base of our chest, and metal matt 001
assigned to the lid. Now let's just rename
this as well from metal mat, wood underscore mat. Now if you pop this open, you've got wood mat and metal mat, and the one on the
lid is wood mat. If you reselect the
base, that's metal mats. Now they both have separate
materials assigned, which means we can
make changes to wood mat and we won't
affect the base. Let's simply come down
here into the base color. Let's change that from
gray over to like a fairly neutralish
brown kind of like a wooden kind
of color color wise. That's not too bad,
but let's actually right click the lid again and let's select the shade flat again just to get
rid of that rounding. It just really
didn't look great. I just needed it to show you all the properties
of the materials. So that looks a
little bit better. Now let's come down.
Shouldn't really be metallic, let's lower metallic to zero. Shouldn't really have
much specularity either. Let's bring that
down to maybe 0.2 just a little bit of a
shine along the edges, but maybe even 0.1
just very little. I'm also going to jack up
the roughness because I imagine wood being a little
bit more rough in texture. It's just a bit more of a matt, diffuse sort of material. That actually looks pretty nice. However, right now,
the entire base of our chest is metallic and
the entire lid is wooden, and it doesn't really
look very realistic. So how do we now assign multiple materials
to the same object, to the same mesh within
our blender seam? Unfortunately, that's
actually not too difficult. And let's have a look at how that works in the next lesson.
44. Assigning Multiple Materials to the Same Model: In this lesson, we will
look at how you can assign multiple materials to
the same three D model, which is something
you'll be doing a lot since it's
pretty uncommon for anything in the real
world really to be made entirely from
a single material. For that we can use
material slots. Let's reselect at the base
of our treasure chests. Again, make sure you're
in the material table. Let's come back to the very top. At the very top here, you
actually see material slots. And every mesh can have
multiple material slots. Because a single mesh can have any number of
materials assigned to it. Because different
materials may be assigned to different
parts of your model, which is what we're
going to do right now. However, we only have
a single material slot and that's taken up
by this metal matt. However, in order to now add some the panels of
this treasure chest, we need to add another
slot for that. In the top of the materials panel over
on the right hand side. There's a little plus I can
here to add a material slot. Let's press that. That now added a new empty slot into the slot. We can now either create
a brand new material, or we can come to the
material browser, pop this open, and select the wood material.
Let's do that. Let's now assigned the
wood material into the second slot on our
treasure chest base. However, it's not
showing anywhere. And that's because we
haven't assigned it to any part of this
mesh just yet. In order to do that, we need
to go back to edit mode with the base of the chest
selected press tab to go into edit mode, make sure you're in face
selection mode here or press three on your keyboard to
enter face selection mode. Hold on shift and let's select the faces that we want to
assign this wooden material to. With all of the
faces selected in the material panel selected
the wood material. And then at the bottom,
simply press Assign to assign that material to the
currently selected geometry. If you now tap out of edit mode, we now have a mesh that
has multiple textures. Our base treasure chest now has both the metal material and the wooden material assigned
to different parts. That looks a whole lot nicer. Let's do the same with the lid. Let's select the
treasure chest lid. Right now, we only have
a single material slot which already contains
the wood mat material. Let's add yet another slot into that in the
material browser. Let's select the metal
material press tab to go into edit mode. I want all of these
frames here to be metallic and all of the
inner panels to be wood. To make that a
little bit easier, I might actually actually
press A to select everything, select the metal material it assigned to assign
metal to everything. Then simply select the face
loops here by holding down Alt and Shift and clicking on the edge of the face
running along this loop. Let's do the same
with this panel. That panel here, come
around the side. Let's hold down Shift, click and drag to marquee, Select around all of
these faces on the side. That looks pretty good and I
still got the ring selected. Come to the other side, hold down shift click and marquee. Select all of these faces, go. That looks pretty good. These ones are now
want to be wooden. Let's select the wooden
material and hit a sign. Let's tap out of added mode that looks a whole lot better
than what we started with. Now let's take everything
we've learned and create, assign some materials
to the skull carving on the front of the
treasure chest to make it stand out a
little bit better. You guessed it. Let's do
that in the next lesson.
45. Assigning Additional Materials: In this lesson we will create some new materials
and assign them to the skull face cut out to run up the look of our
pirate treasure chest. Let's re select the base
of the treasure chest. Let's add yet another
material slot. Over on the right inside
here on the top of the material prop these tap, let's hit plus to add
another material slot. This time I don't want to use the metal or the wood material, they're already on
this mesh anyway. Instead I'm just going to press new to create a
brand new material. This is going to add
a new material again. You can then see it in the
material browser here as well. But let's rename this one
Skull Matt. It tapped. Go into edit mode. Let's select the inside faces of the skull. Select our skull
material and press a sign to assign that material to the
inside of the skull. Press tab to exit added, but doesn't look too
exciting right now. Let's change this material
just a little bit. Come down, let's
change the base color to maybe almost black. Let's also make it metallic. Bring up the specula,
maybe tweak the roughness. Just a little bit of this
really dark black material on the inside there.
That looks pretty good. Let's just add another
one just for the eyes, just so they stand out in nice, bright and angry red. Again, let's come to the top
of the material properties, make sure the base of your
chest is still selected. Let's add yet another
material slot to this mesh. Again, let's create
a new material. We want to call this red mat. Very creative, and this time
before even Asylum is going to change the base
color over to red. Let's come back into
edit mode and unselect everything by pressing A
twice quickly in a row A. To unselect everything,
let's select the pass on the eyes and
the nose of the skull. I want to select the
edge around as well, and I could go through
and reselect them all. But you can also just expand the current selection
by one more piece of geometry to push
them out to include the next level of
connected faces. To do that, you can simply
hold uncontrol and press plus on the numpad
to select more, press minus by holding down
control to select less. Plus. Really useful by the way, if you don't have numpad again, just come to select
more or less and then more or less or just assign them to different shortcut keys. With that selected, let's select the red material and hit a sign. Tap out Pretty good. I think I'd like the
edges to be black. Again, back into edit mode. Let's select the phases on
the front control or command. And plus on the
numpad, select more. Let's select the skull mat. Hit a sign to assign that. Now let's just select the phases on the front of the eyes
and the nose again. And assign the red material
to just that Hit tab. Yeah, that I think
looks much, much nicer. Finally, let's just quickly select if the
ground plane again, doesn't actually
have any material, so let's just assign
a material to it. Let's rename this one
round underscore Matt. Let's change the base color
to like a darkish gray. Come down a little bit, bring up the specula and
lower the roughness. So it's nice and reflective. And that looks pretty good. Now we're pretty much wrapped up with the basics
on how to create, modify, and assign materials, but let's quickly
talk about how you can enable reflections
in the EV, render engine to
get your scene to look just a little
bit more exciting. And let's do that
in the next lesson.
46. Screen Space Reflections in EEVEE: If you're working with
V, you can easily enable reflections called screen
space reflections, to make your entire scene look a whole lot
more interesting. The Cycles render engine will
give you reflections out of the box as it's a
traced render engine. But in V, reflections
are essentially being faked with a little
bit of graphics trickery. But it's super
easy to enable and just use even without
understanding all of the technical details simply come into the
render properties. And with the EV render
engine selected, come down a little
bit and enable this checkbox here for
screen space reflections. Immediately you should see some nice reflections in your three D scene
on the ground. Just make sure that the
material assigned to the ground object has
a very low roughness, so you can actually get some really nice
reflections there. And I think that actually looks
pretty cool and just adds a little bit more excitement
to the three D scene. We've really scratched
the surface of all of the cool stuff that you can do with materials and blender. But hopefully these
lessons gave you a good understanding
of how to create, modify, and assign your
own materials and blender. And if you stick around in the next part we will
cover how you can add a whole other level
of realism to your materials by
adding image textures.
47. TEXTURE MAPPING - SECTION OVERVIEW: Awesome. We've now created a fully custom three D model and assign some materials to it to kind of give it a bit of a, you know, less than boring look. However, the way to now take this to the next
little bit is to apply image textures to
materials to add realistic looking
materials for wood metal, gold, gemstones, forest trees, grass sand, anything
that you can think of. And while that might seem
really straightforward, there is one more thing you do need to do for that
to work properly, and that is UV mapping. Uv mapping is essentially
the process of taking your three D model
and unwrapping it like a piece of paper
to flatten it out. And lay it out on
a flat surface on which you actually have your two dimensional
flat texture. This tells blender how to map a two dimensional texture to the three dimensional
shape of your objects. The xy coordinates that are used for that mapping are actually
referred to as U and V, which is why this whole
thing is called UV mapping. And if that sounds
complicated, don't worry, it really isn't all that bad once you understand the basics. But again, let's get our hands dirty and
jump right into it.
48. How to Get Free Seamless Textures: Welcome back to Blender,
and this is where we ended up after the last
part of this course. We modeled a pity
treasure test and asigned some basic materials
to it so it doesn't look quite so naked as before. If you want to jump in at
this part of the course, you will find the project
file in the course materials. So you can just start from here. Now, while we have some basic
materials set up already, they all look rather plain. And this is where
adding image textures to materials can add a
whole new level of realism. Now there's tons of
great places online where you can find
free textures to use. The one that I really like
is three D textures dot me, it's run by a guy called Paolo just of patron
and you know, just donations of people. He creates absolutely
free textures, the public domain, so you can use them for anything
that you want. Just don't claim
that you made them. And there's some
really great stuff in here, so highly recommend, Go check that out,
Drop you the links to that down in the
video description. Now from his website, I have downloaded
three textures. One called Gold Nugget 001, metal scratched 008, and
stylized wood Planks 001. We're going to use these
textures to assign to our model and make our Pi chess look a whole lot
more interesting. Now, all of these files are included in the course
materials as well, but I encourage you to
have a look around online. There's tons of
great places to get free textures for
your three D models, But now that we have some
suitable image textures ready, let's talk about how you
can actually use them within your materials
in the next lesson.
49. Using Image Textures in Materials: In this lesson, let's talk about how to add image textures to your materials to make them look a whole lot more
interesting and realistic. Now let's start out by making our wood material look a
little more interesting. And actually like wood, if you select the base
of the treasure chest, we have four materials on there. Red mat, skull mat, wood mat, and metal mat. Let's select the
wood mat material. Come down in the
material properties. Right now, the base color
here is set to brown. That's why all we
have is brown color. But let's make this look
actually like wood by using an image texture for that in the metal properties next to the base color on
the left hand side, you'll find this yellow dot
here If you click on this, this is going to bring up
a window allowing you to connect all sorts of inputs
into your base color. And the color will then
be defined by what comes from that input rather than by the solid color we've selected. You can assign
things like brick or checker textures, image
textures, gradients, voronoi, all sorts of
different calculations and other functions into this to drive that base color
from something else. The one we want to pick
is called image texture. And by the way, if you
can't see that in here, scroll up on your
mouse will Sometimes it's hidden at the top
of this pop up window. It doesn't work perfectly, so let's select image texture. All of the wood has gone
black because we haven't actually assigned any
texture to that yet. Back in the material properties, now you'll have this
little drop down here. So base color is now
an image texture rather than a solid
color in here. You can now either
create a new texture to assign or open
an existing one. Let's click on Open. Let's go
into open the file browser. Let's navigate to where we downloaded all of our textures. Two, I'm going to jump into the Stylized wood planks
001 folder in here, over on the top right hand side. Let's switch this over to
Ken Moto. See what this is. Most textures that you
download online for a three D program contain
more than a single image. And that is because there's usually one that
defines the base color, which is just the basic
color of your material. But on top of that,
there's often additional textures used to define the areas of roughness or the heights or the normals. We'll get to that in
a bit. This is how the material reacts and
interacts with light. So there's lots of
different options to make this look a
whole lot better. For now, I just want to select the stylized wood
planks base color. Hit open to connect that into our base color input.
Give that just a second. Now we have the actual
texture appear on our material because
we've assigned that to be the base color
for our material. Now it doesn't sit quite right, it's weirdly distorted
on the side. The scaling is all off. And we'll fix that
in just a minute. But for now, let's also
assign an image texture for the metal parts of this treasure test in the material browser. Let's come all the
way to the top. Make sure you select
the metal mat material. Here you can see the base color is still just a solid color. Again, let's click on this
yellow input icon here. Find the image texture in the
pop up. Let's select that. It'll go black because
we haven't assigned anything again in the
image texture properties. Let's click on Open Image. Navigate to where you
downloaded the textures, and I'm going to select
this metal scratch 008 texture here. And again, quite a few different images in this folder for different parts
of the material. For now I really
just want to select this metal scratch 008, base color J pack here. Double click that
or hit open image. Now you have actual
metal texture on the metal parts of
this treasure chest. Again, it doesn't really
look great just yet. And that is actually due to the way that we haven't
told Blender just yet how to map these
flat two D image sects to the three D
geometry of our model. And that is done via UV mapping. And let's talk about UV
mapping and how to use the UV editor in blender
in the next lesson.
50. UV Mapping & The UV Editor: In this lesson, we will
look at how to set up UV mapping for three D models to make sure that the image
textures are aligned correctly with the geometry
of our treasure chest. For that we will have to use the UV editor and we can
bring up a new panel just by coming to the bottom
of the three D viewport just until your Us changes
to this double error. Right click select
to create a models, make a vertical split. Split our three viewport
in two on the left inside. Let's change this one from the three D viewport
over to the UV editor. And let's zoom in just by scrolling up on the mouse wheel. By the way you can
click and hold your middle mouse
button and drag around, and right now we
see nothing at all. However, we can
display an image or an image texture
in the UV editor by coming to the
top drop down here. You can also create an open
new images directly in here. However, we've already imported two images into our project. So let's pop open
this image browser. And in here you now have
your metal scratched base color and your stylized
wood planks base color. By the way, you also have
this confused skull that we imported in an earlier
part of the series. But let's select this stylized
wood planks base color here that's a bit bigger. Let's zoom right back out. This is the texture
that we actually assigned to all of the wooden parts of
our treasure chest. However, Blender doesn't
quite know yet how to map this two D texture
to the three D geometry. And that's what we need to do now with the base of
the treasure chest. Selected press tab to
go into edit mode. Let's rotate around a
little bit and select just the side of
the treasure chest because that's where we can more easily see how
this UV mapping works with that face selected. In the UV editor. You can see this wide
wrecked angle here, and this is actually the
face that we have selected. It has four corner points
and you can click on these to select them or hold down shift to select multiple ones. This angle is exactly the
geometry of our face and it shows how the texture underneath it is mapped to that face. The cool thing is you
can actually select your geometry in the UV editor
press to move that around. And can you see how on the right hand side the mapping for that texture changes to show exactly what is underneath
the angle on the left. And this is how we
tell Blender how to map our geometry
to the textures. The cool thing is
you can now let's simply click and drag
marquee around all of them. Press to scale. Let's drag out to scale, this texture on the three DV. On the right hand side, you
can see how that changes, how that texture is mapped. Now it's faded out a little bit because you have the
selection highlight here. Let's unselect
everything for a second. That looks much better now,
it's still not perfect. Also, I'm noticing that I have these edges here on the side, these really thin strips that actually do also have
that same image texture. Let's do this properly. Let's select the
face in the middle. Let's select these two
strips on the side here that also have that
wood material assigned. In the UV editor you can
see how the strips are. Nothing is really
mapped properly and you can go through
manually and move all of these points around to lay them out exactly the
way you want to. Fortunately, Blender includes
quite a few nifty tools to generate the UV
coordinates automatically. Let's look at some of
them in the next lesson.
51. UV Mapping for Additional Geometry: In this lesson, we will go over UV mapping and using
Smart UV Project a few more times to
fix up the texture mapping for the lid of
our treasure chest. So let's select the lid
of our treasure chest. Press tab to go into edit mode. Let's fix the metal parts first. And for that again, let's
select the metal mat. Hit select, Select
all of the faces on our three D model that have that material assigned
to them Also, that works well
because we still have the metal texture selected
in our UV editor. So we can see that
straight away, again, coming in to UV. And by the way, besides
smart UV project, there's actually tons
of other ways to project and generate those UV's. And the way the geometries map to your textures play
around for them. Have fun. There's some cool stuff in here. You can also do things like
marking and clearing seams, which tells blender
how to slice and unwrap that three D model
into a flat packed surface. But again, that might be a
topic for another tutorial. So again, let's just simply
select Smart UV Project. Here it, okay. Click
back into the UV editor, press eight, select everything. S, again, scale
that up a fair bit. The scale of that matches about the scale we
have on the base. Let's just tap back out and
check that out. Not too bad. Let's just go back. Maybe I'll scale it up just a
little bit more. That looks pretty good and now let's fix the wood as well. Let's return into added
mode in the UV editor. Let's just change the
texture from metal, scratched back over to
our stylized wood planks. Just to get us started,
let's select the wood mat. Hit Select to select
all of those faces. We still have all of the
metal ones selected. So let's press AA to unselect everything with
the wood material selected. Hit Select to select
only those faces. Uv, Smart, UV Project. Hit Okay to lay them out, just to give them
some initial layout. Let's just tap back out. The sides are not bad. The sides are a little
bit too big though. Back into added mode, let's select only the
faces on the sides. I just want to select the two sides of this treasure chair. So I can scale those ones
up just a little bit. You can press a or box marquee.
Select the whole thing. Let's press to scale
that up a little bit. Again, I'm just trying to
match the scaling of that up about to the scaling of
the wood on the base. Again, to move these around, that might look quite okay. Yeah, I think that
looks pretty good. Let's deal with the wooden
panels running around the lid. Again, back to edit mode. Press to unselect everything. Hold down Alt option on your keyboard Shift and click near the rim running
around alongside, so we can select
those face loops of all of the three
pieces along the lid. With the cursor
over the UV editor, press A select everything. And let's just scale that up again just a little
bit just to make the wood planks just a little bit more detailed and smaller. Come back into the
three DV press A to unselect everything, and
that looks pretty good. I just don't like how
the panels here along this side are going vertical
instead of horizontal. Let's select the faces just
around the edge of that lid. Come back into the UV editor. Press R for rotate
and then enter 90 on your keyboard to rotate
that exactly 90 degrees. Left click to confirm to
grab and you can move them around and just place them exactly where
you want them to be. Actually do, make sure
you're in phase select mode, select one of them might
actually drag them so that the upper edge aligns with the dark corner of
the piece of wood. So all of them have that
dark edge at the top. So that runs along the upper edge on our
three D model as well. That already looks okay. But again, feel free
to play with this and do whatever seems to
make sense to you. Let's check that
out. Yeah, see that, That makes much more sense. That now looks really nice. Let me just shrink down the UV editor on the left hand side. We'll get to it
in just a minute. Again, let's just tap out of edit mode and just check
out our treasure chest. Doesn't that look so much
better just by assigning some basic textures to the
base color of our materials? Now let's take this
one step further and add some normal maps
to our materials. Again, let's go over
what normal maps are and how to use them
in the next lesson.
52. Using Normal Maps to Add Realism: In this lesson, we
will cover how to use normal maps for you
materials in blender. And we will go over what
they are and why they are so useful for creating realistic looking materials
in the first place. If you kind of look at an angle at these
wood panels here now, they're much nicer
than they were before. But they are very flat, right? They're kind of equally shiny. It looks pretty flat. And I'd like the wood to feel like it actually
has some structure, some actual texture to the wood. And for that, some of the additional image files
that you get when you download textures from the Internet are
really, really useful. Now there's different
things for, you know, adding variable roughness, specularity,
displacement, bump maps. The one I'm going to
use is a normal map. But before we start applying it, I want to explain very
quickly what that does. Now let's select the base of
our pirate treasure test. Select the wood material. If you come down a
little bit right now, the base color of this material is driven
by this image texture, which is why we see
the wooden color. However, all of the
other properties like metallic, specular, tint, roughness, sheen, clear code, all of them are still driven
just by a fixed value. Now all of them have inputs. You can drive them
all with images, with calculation, with
mathematical functions, whatever you want to. The one that I want to modify is this normal
property here. Now if you remember from the editing tutorial
part two in this series, the normals are essentially vectors in three D
space that define the direction of your vertices and faces on your three D model. They're super important
because they're actually getting used to calculate
things such as specularity, roughness, and how the light
interacts with the surface. But let's have a quick
look at the normals. Again with the base selected press tab to go into edit mode. Come to the top
right hand side of your three D and pop
open this overlays. Drop down here, come
down to the bottom, and in here you'll
find your normal. Let's enable the
normal displays for the vertices but
also for the faces. These are now essentially
the directions in which the normals are facing. This is what Blender and all three D programs used to calculate how light
interacts with that surface. The problem is
that, for example, this whole face here on the side only has a single normal. So every single pixel
on the surface, we'll get the same
interaction with light. And that's why it
all looks flat and uniform except for
the base color. What we really want to
do is we want to drive this normal on a per pixel basis so that the way the
light interacts with this surface changes
from pixel to pixel. And you can then add texture into your material so
they don't seem so flat. If that didn't make
sense, don't stress out, we'll go through
the process now. For now, let's come
back to the overlays and enable our normal display. Don't really need to see
it, I just wanted to give a little bit of
detailed context. Let's tap back into object mode with the base of the treasure chest
still selected. Let's make sure we have the
wood material selected. Let's come down past the base color, which
we've already signed. Let's come all the way down to normal. Let's click on this. In this pop up again, I
don't quite like this. You can see this
little error at the top hover over that Oscar. Upon the Maas bring up all
the other options in here. I now want to select an
option called Normal Map, because we're going to
use an image texture to drive all of the normals across the surfaces so they don't look so uniform. Let's select that, nothing
has happened as of yet. Come down under normal. You now have additional options. Leave most of them on the fold. This one here that doesn't
have a label, click into that. That's where you
select the UV map. So the select UV map, which is this normal map, will use the same
UV mapping that we've already set up
for the base color. The surface texture
we're about to add will match the
actual image color, so it'll match the look and
feel of the wood underneath. And again, nothing has changed. The color is still consistent. But now this color, I want to click onto this
little yellow dot here. And this I want to
be an image texture. Let's select the
image texture as an input into the color
for our normal map. Come down. Let's click Open. Let's navigate into the
same folder where we downloaded that stylized
wood texture here. In here, you will find
an image that's called Stylized Wood Planks
01 Underscore Normal, and this is the normal map
that we want to assign. Now it looks really weird. If you actually open
this up in detail, it's this purplish,
weird texture. It looks like the wood, but this is really
weirdly colored. And that's because the red, green and blue components of this texture don't
represent color. They actually
represent the x, y, and z direction of
the normal vectors. At this point of the texture, it's essentially just
defining the way all of these different parts
of this texture should interact with light. To then give it a bit more of a three dimensional
and textured feeling, let's select the UV
map to be assigned. Let's hit open, and we're
not quite done yet. The last thing I want
to do is I want to change this color
space from S RGB. Let's pop this open to non color because the normal
map doesn't represent color. It's data for three vectors
with XYZ components. Change this over to non color. That is important. And
now if you check out the texture and look at it from the side
when it reflects light, you can see this now feels
like it's three dimensional. The cool thing is you can also, in this normal map, now
jack up the strength. You can literally see how that texture seems transformed from something boring, a flat, to something that actually
has genuine texture, that interacts differently with the light and starts to look
really three dimensional. This really helps to make your textures look
so much better. Now you can come up and you can play with things like
the roughness and the specularity to control
how shiny that wood is, just to tweak whatever
else you want. Now if that was a bit confusing, let's repeat this process
for the metal material. Let's come up and select the metal material in
the material settings. Let's come all the
way down to normal. Click onto this little
default pop up here again. Let's come to the very
top until we find that the normal map
option for that, let's be sure to
select the UV map, so the material
for the metal will map the color that
we've already assigned. Let's click on the
yellow dot next to the color To input
our normal map. Into that, let's select
the image texture. Let's hit open. Let's navigate to where we got that
metal scratched from. Again, in here you'll
have a normal map. So let's select that, double
click it to assign it. Again, very important to
change the color space from SRGB over to non color. Again, let's come in a
little bit so we can see how the light now interacts
with that metal material. You can see the dense
and scratches here, you can jack up the strength if you want that to be a
little bit stronger. But I actually just want a
little bit of scratches. What I might do
though, I might lower the roughness a little bit more just to get some of those
shiny rough corners here. You can see that, especially
here on the front where the skull
sits on the edges, that now actually looks
like metal because the different parts
of the textures interact differently with light. And that just looks
so much better. Now let's take everything we've learned so far in
this part to create a much better looking
gemstone material for the little skull carving on the front of our treasure chest. And let's do that
in the next lesson.
53. Creating a Gemstone Material: In this lesson, we
will use normal maps, as well as subsurface scattering
to turn the red parts of our little skull low
into something that looks a little bit
more like gemstones. First off, however though, I want to have the edges of these eyes now
to be red as well, because I'm imagining the
nose and the eyes being just made from crystal
Ruby material. So let's press Tab to
go into edit mode, press AA to make sure we've
unselected everything all done old or option and shift
and click around the edge, running along or around the
outside of the eye there. Select that. Select
the other one as well, and the one on the nose. Let's come up and make sure we assign the red material
to that as well. So select the red material. It a sign, so now the
eyes are nice and red. The base color, I'm actually
going to leave on red. I like red, but also it allows us then to just
change the color later on. I really just want
to add some texture. So all I'm going to do is add a normal map with the
red material selected. Come to the bottom,
click on normal. Let's go through the process
again. Come to the top. Let's select normal map, change the EV map to UV map, and we still have
to set that up. We haven't gone through that yet for the eyes specifically, but let's just add an input
into the color property, select an image texture, I'm going to hit open on that. Come into textures, got to come into this gold nugget 001. Didn't like the yellow too much but I do like the
texture of that. I'm going to select the gold
nugget z one normal map. Hit open to apply that. Again, nothing
much has happened. So let's come down, change
the color space from SRGB over to non color. Let's check up the
strength a little bit. You can kind of see
it happening there, but the granularity, the
scale isn't quite right. So let's make the UV editor again a little bit
bigger and switch the texture that
we're seeing from stylized wood over to
my gold nugget normals. Make sure you have
all of the faces selected that have that
red material assigned. And again, you can also
just come up here, red material, hit select
to select all of those. Let's come to V Smart
EV project here. Okay. Yeah, that's maybe
a bit too rough, so let's just select everything. Press the scale. Just want to scale it down a little bit of, want them to be chunky
but not too crazy. Also press G and just move
that around until you find a pattern that
looks good, maybe. Right about that. Let's
recllapse the UV editor. Let's just come out press tap and that's not too
bad. Looks a bit aldo. And that's because it still
looks pretty flat and boring. So let's add some subsurface
scattering to make these gemstones look a
little bit more translucent. So in the material properties, let's jack up the subsurface right here, but not too much. Maybe 0.05 just a little bit, just to add a little bit of
that gemstone feeling to it. Might also lower the roughness
just to make them look a whole lot more shiny and
add some more specularity. And I'm also going to bring up the metal just a
little bit to give it kind of that
crystal metal feeling. And there you go, you got like these really nice shimmering
gemstones sitting in there. Now, because we left the
base color on default, you can change that
to blue or green or any other color that you
like. Let's zoom back out. Let me just quickly
add a light just so that you can see
how this light is now interacting with the
textures that we've assigned to our pirate
treasure chest. At least in my opinion, this looks so much
better than what our treasure chest looked like at the start of this
part of the course. Again, there's a ton of stuff we haven't even touched on yet, from transparent materials,
light refraction, to using the shader editor. But hopefully this is enough to get you started and excited about creating your own
materials in blender as always. Just as a reminder,
leave me comments below if there's something you'd like me to add to this course. For now, if you stick around, let's finally look at how
you can add animations to the three D objects
in your scene to bring everything to life.
54. ANIMATIONS - SECTION OVERVIEW: Now it's finally time
to get fancy by adding a whole other dimension into our three D scene.
And that is time. Working with time and adding
key frames allows you to add animation to your three D objects and your
three D scenes. You can animate anything
that you can think of. And once you're happy with that final animation in Blender, you can export it out into a video file that you can then share with
friends with family. Upload to the Internet
use for your intro on Youtube or for a
product commercial or anything else that you want. In this section, we will talk
about the timeline panel. How to create keyframes. How to create keyframes
automatically. How to animate your
three D objects, work with keyframe
interpolation modes. Or how to animate
multiple objects together and join
things together. So it just makes it a
bit easier to manage and animate your
three D scene again. By now you're probably
familiar with my style and you know
that I'll go through everything in quite a bit of detail and explain
everything step by step. So everything should hopefully
be fairly straightforward. But again, if you
have any questions, just just drop them down below
and I'll get back to you. But again enough waffling, let's jump right into it.
55. The Timeline Panel: Welcome back to Blender, and this is where we left off at the end of the last
part of this course. We modeled our little pirate
treasure chest from scratch. And then assigned materials and image textures to it to make it look a whole
lot more realistic. Again, if you do want to
follow along from here, you will find this project fired in the course materials
that you can download. Now let's finally
talk about how to add key frames and animations. And for that, you
will first need to get familiar with
the timeline panel. If you now press zero on your num pad to go
into camera view. Now this looks pretty good, but it is just a static image. Even if you were to render
this scene into a video file, it would just be this one image for the duration of your video. Let's make this a little
bit more exciting and start adding
some animations. In order to manage
animations and blender, you will need to work
with the timeline panel. In the default blender layout, you will find the
timeline panel just underneath the three D view
down here at the bottom, its squished together,
so let's click on this horizontal bar at the
top of the timeline panel. Drag that up to make it
a little bit bigger. By the way, if you
can't find this panel, you can convert any
panel and blender, just like I showed you in
the very beginning total. Just click onto the icon in the top left hand
side of any panel. Make sure you changed that
over to the timeline view. Now this is your
blender timeline. It's essentially the frames one to 250 laid out left to right. The little timeline
indicator shows you which frame you're looking at right now. I'm looking at frame one. You can simply left click
on that and drag it to the right to scrub
through your animation. And you may notice that
nothing changes because while we haven't added any
animation just yet, you can also press space to start playing
back your animation, and space again to stop. There's also playback
controls here. If you prefer, you
can just start playback. You can rewind. By the way, the
shortcut key for wind, a shift and left arrow, or shift and right
arrow to jump to the end of your animation
makes it just nice and easy to navigate around with the mouse cursor
over the timeline. If you scroll your wheel down, you're going to zoom out
scrolling up, we'll zoom in. And you can click and hold your middle mouse button to drag the timeline left and right. And if you don't have
a middle mouse button, or you just don't like using it, you also have this little scroll bar down here
at the bottom that you can shrink in and navigate around with
however you want to. Let me just zoom out a
little bit so we can see our entire timeline,
1-250 frames. By the way, you can adjust the start and end frame of
your animation up here. Simply type in
while I want to go, maybe want to only 150 frames. So now my animation, if
I exported this project, would simply go 150 frames seeking control the length
of your video this way. However, unless you
have some key frames in your scene or other ways
to control animations, nothing is going
to move and it's going to be a very boring video. So let's talk about how
to create keyframes, and therefore animations,
in the next lesson.
56. Creating Keyframes & Animations: In this lesson,
let's talk about how to create key frames
and therefore, add animations to the three
D objects in Blender. Now if you play back
your animation again, press space on the keyboard. Nothing happens because
we haven't added any animation to any
object in our scenes yet. So let's rewind our time
line Shift left arrow. Let's select the
light in our scene. If you press G in drag, you can move this light around. If you press X, you're going to confine the
movement to the X, X. Let's animate this light to move from down here on the left
side of the treasure chest, all the way over to the right with the light on the left hand side of the treasure chest. Let's place it right there. We now need to
create a key frame. A key frame records the current
properties, the position, the scale, the rotation, and anything else of an
object at that point in time. Right now we're on frame
one and we want to record the position of the
light at that point in time. In order to do that, go over
to the right hand side into the properties panel and select this little
orange square here, which is the object properties. This shows you that right now we have a point light selected. And that has a transform on it, which is a location
rotation and a scale. This changes as you
move the light around. So if I move this
light, you can see how the values over here on
the right hand side update. Because they're just
the coordinates and the values for those
properties of the light. Now I want to create a keyframe. And you can do that simply
by right clicking on any property or any property group in your properties panels, or right click and select
to insert keyframe. The shortcut key for that is you also have the option to
insert a single keyframe, and we can ignore that for now. But what it essentially means is that your location is an x, y, and z value. If you insert a
single key frame, you may only add a key
frame to the y position, but not the x and Z position. We'll get to that a
little bit later. Let's simply right
click on that, Click on Insert Keyframes, and you can see that all of these values have
now turned orange. The other thing you
will notice is that on your timeline now also have
this little yellow diamond. This represents a keyframe
on your timeline. You may have noticed
that as I moved this timeline
indicator away from that key frame over on
the right hand side, the values turned green. It just indicates that there is a key frame on this property, but you're not right
now on a key frame. If you move this timeline
indicator back to frame one, where we place that key frame, you can see the
color goes yellow, just indicating that you are
currently over a key frame. You can also see that here with this little diamond
that's indicated over on the right hand side. If you now scrub forward
to maybe frame 100 or so, let's again make sure
you have the light selected and X again
to lock that movement. And let's move the light over to the right hand side
of the treasure test. You can now in the
properties panel, see that the location x, which is the value we change, is now indicated as R. And saying we've changed this value, but we haven't yet
created a key frame. What that means is that this
value is not yet locked in. If I now change my
timeline indicator, let's just grab it
and drag it back. My light just snap back. It's because, well,
we didn't record it, so Blender reverted to
using the value that we actually keyframed Again, let's go to frame 100 and X. Let's move the light over
to the right hand side. Now let's lock this
value in for that. Again, just right click and
select to insert keyframe. But I'm not going
to do that because I'm a big fan of shortcut key. Simply hover your mouse
over the properties you want to insert a
keyframe for press. To insert the keyframe, also click the
little diamond icon over on the right hand side.
It does the same thing. Now we have another key
frame in our time line. Now if you scrub
in your timeline, you can see the light move
from its initial keyframe, its initial position,
to its final position. Blender automatically
interpolates. It blends the value from the start to the end to give
you a smooth animation. If you now rewind
this animation, press space to play it back, you can see the light animate and swing across from
the left to the right. Next, let's look at how you can preview keyframes in
your timeline panel. And let's do that
in the next lesson.
57. Viewing Keyframes: In this lesson,
we will cover how the time line panel
displays keyframes. And how you can look at what
values you have actually recorded on your three D
objects for these keyframes. Now down in the
timeline right now, you can see two yellow diamonds representing the two key
frames we added on the light. The timeline will only show you the key frames for the objects you
actually have selected. So if I unselect the light, the key frames are going to vanish because
while on the scene, or if I select the
treasure test, there are no keyframes
on these objects. It's only when I select
the light that I can actually see the
keyframes because that's the object that I've
added keyframes to in the timeline panel
over on the left hand side, I don't know whether
you can see it here. There's a tiny, tiny arrow
pointing to the right. If you click on that, you're going to expand a little
window that can show you which objects near
scene actually are key framed right now you
can see summary here. If you click on this little
twirly on the left hand side, you're going to expand
that point point action. You can all that for
now object transform. If you expand that, you can see the key frames
are sitting on the x, Y, and Z property of the object. So this can sometimes be
very useful to show you exactly which properties
are animated on an object. Because you may animate lots of different properties
on the same object. So at the top level, all you're going to
see is to key frames, but you may want to
dig into that to see what's the x position. And you can change
the keyframes and the values and the
interpolation modes. Stuff we get to a little bit later in this tutorial
individually. So this can be super useful. Let me collapse that back
up to the summary level, and if you don't want to
see this panel anymore, you can just click on the right hand side of it and
drag it over to the left. No collapse right
back down again. Next, let's look at
how you can adjust the timing of your key frames
to tweak your animations. And let's do that
in the next lesson.
58. Adjusting Keyframe Timing: In this lesson, we'll talk about how you can
tweak the timing of your existing keyframes on your time line to just
tweak your animations. Now our light
animates from frame one to frame 100 over
to the right hand side. The keyframes are orange right now because they're
actually selected. If you click anywhere
in the timeline, you can see them go gray. They're now unselected
and you can actually just left click on any of them and just drag them around to change the timing. So let's just drag
these in a little bit. For example, to
have the light move from frame 30 to frame 90. You can tweak this
in any way you want. You can add more keyframes to it to move your light
around in any crazy way. Just going to reset my
keyframes to go from frame one, frame 100, and I'm going
to come to frame 50. I'm going to grab the light, let's press Z to move
it up a little bit. I'm going to move
the light up just a little bit because I
want it animating from the bottom left swinging up and then back down on the
right hand side again. If I now moved my
timeline indicator, my light would return back to its normal position because I haven't keyframed that property. And Z again, with the light
selected, let's drag it up. Come over to the right hand side either right click,
insert key frame, press orders, press that little diamond over on the
right hand side here. You may have noticed
that this only added a key frame
to the Z property. Let's just also just add them to the X and Y just to keep it consistent.
You don't need to. We can animate thing in
blender in any way you want. But now we've added a new
keyframe at frame 15. The light now moves up
and then back down. Let's rewind play
this animation, and let's have a
look at the path and the movement of the light. Cool, that looks pretty good. Now, another way to create
keyframes more automatically, so you don't have to manually
insert them all the time, is to enable automatic keying. Let's look at how you can
do that in the next lesson.
59. Recording Keyframes Automatically: In this lesson, we
will learn how to enable auto keying in Blender. Auto keying enables you to automatically record keyframes
for the changes that you make to your three
D objects so that you don't have to create all of
your key frames manually. In Blender on the
timeline panel, there's a little
record button here. If you click this, you're
going to enable auto keying. That means that the moment
you change a property, it will automatically record
a keyframe against that. So if I now grab the
light at maybe frame 80, let's just grab it and
move it over to the right inside here, Left
stick to place it. You can see that who
on the right inside? All of these properties have now been keyframed automatically. And there's a keyframe
on my timeline because Blender automatically
created keyframes. So now you've got another
keyframe in your animation. But it does look a
little bit weird. So let's select just that
one keyframe at frame eight, press X to delete it. Yep, delete key frames, and now we're back to our
three keyframe animation. Now we still have
auto keying enabled. And by the way, in Blender, there's actually a way
to control exactly which properties
of the objects are automatically
keyframed by Blender. And if you pop up in this, let it drop down here for keying, you can create things
called keying sets, which are groups
of properties that blender will then
automatically key. But it's probably a topic for another tutorial. Let's
not do anything with that. Let's disable auto keying. Make sure you're at the
beginning of your animation. Press space to play it back and just have a look at
the path of the light. That looks pretty nice. Next, let's look at key frame
interpolation and blender. And let's do that
in the next lesson.
60. Keyframe Interpolation Modes: In this lesson, we will look
at key frame interpolation, what it is, how it works, and how to change it. This allows you to
fine tune the way your animations are
played back in blender. If you play back your
animation right now, you may notice that the light doesn't actually
move consistently. It starts slow, it gets
a little bit faster, and then it slows
back down at the end. And that has to do with
interpolation modes. Interpolation modes
essentially tell blender how to blend
between different values. Because we only have
three key frames, blender has to decide how do I slowly transition from this keyframe over to the
values in this keyframe, and over to the values
in this keyframe. Right now, blender is using something called
Bezier interpolation, which is a fancy
way of saying it's like every point
has a curve handle, and so it gives you
smooth curve so it more naturally ramps up
and then slows down. However, you can change all
of these interpolation modes. Let's click drag and box select all three key
frames in our timeline. Right click any one of them. In here you have
a whole bunch of different options
for key frame type, handle types, easing
modes, all sorts of stuff. The one I want to look at
is interpolation mode. Right now it's set to bezier,
which is the default. However, you can also
set it to linear, which means that blender
won't ease in and out. So it won't speed
up or slow down. It just consistently changes
blends between those values. If you now come back and play
this animation back again, just have a look at the
movement of the light. Can you see how much
more robotic that feels? Because it is really
just very linear. It doesn't try to do
anything organic or natural. It just goes blend very straight up until I hit this keyframe. And then from that
value transition over into that keyframe value and everything
is very straight, and this is great for
more robotic animations. The cool thing is
you can pick and choose between
different keyframes. So let's select only
the first keyframe. Click that, select Interpolation
Mode, and choose Bezier. Now, only the first key
frame will actually do this whole speed up and slow down the other
two key frames. These two here will still
use linear interpolation. If you now rewind and play
this back, and again, keep an eye on the
light, it speeds up. Then from the second
key frame to the third. It's fully
straightened, robotic. Again, let's click
in our timeline. To unselect everything,
click in box select the last two key frames. Right click Interpolation mode. Let's try something
completely different. Again, play around with this, there's lots of
different options. Let's select bounce. Let's rewind our animation
and play this back. That's kind of cool.
We have like a dropping down and bouncing
animation created in blender. Without really adding any
additional keyframes, Blender does that automatically, just by us choosing the
appropriate interpolation vote. Now again, in
blender you can get much more fine grain control over all of this
stuff if you use something called
the graph editor, which shows you the
animation and the path that values take and gives you all
sorts of advanced features. Again, probably something
for a future tutorial. If you're interested, drop
me a comment down below. For now, what I'm going to
do is in the timeline panel, click anyway to unselect everything with the cursor
still over the timeline. And press A to
select everything. And usually most shortcuts actually work across all
of the different panels, but they then relative
to the context. So A within the timeline
selects all keyframes. In three D view it would
select all objects, et cetera, et cetera, with
all keyframes selected. Right click, interpolation
mode, select Sia, resetting our light to
just have this nice, smooth, more organic animation. With the cursor over
the three D view, press zero on your numpad to
return to camera view again. And let's just play this
back and that's what our animation would
now look like if we rented this out
into a video file. Next, let's talk
about how you can animate the movement
of the camera in blender to add a
little bit more energy into your three D scenes. Again, let's do that
in the next lesson.
61. Animating the Camera: In this lesson, we
will learn how to add key frames and animations
to the camera and lender so that you can create dynamic three D videos where the video isn't just
stuck in one place. Let's remind our
animation again. And let's have the
camera kind of swing from the left to
the right hand side, just as the light moves. For that, go into camera view by pressing zero on your numpad. And if you now move the camera, you got to break out
of that camera view. So again, back to
camera view with the cursor over the three
view press end to bring up the properties panel on the
right hand side go into view and enable lock
camera to view. So now as we move the camera we're not going to
break out of it, we're actually going to
change the position of the camera in the outliner
over on the right hand side. Expand the seam collection and make sure you
have the camera selected so that the properties here actually
represent the camera. If you still have
the light selected, the properties are
for the light. So make sure you're
on the camera now with our timeline
indicator at frame one. Again, shift and left arrow. If you want to remind,
let's rotate the camera a little bit and you
can see because we're locked to the view, our camera remains in the view. Let's say we want to start
here in the object properties. Again, I have no keyframes. I'm going to slide markers over the location press to
insert the key frame, but I'm also going to
do it for the rotation because we're actually
rotating our camera as well. Those values are
changing as well. Again, in the timeline view, I can now see a keyframe here. If I was to expand that
little panel over here, I can now see this is now
on the key frame object transforms x location and
the rotation property. Again, let's just
collapse that away. Don't really need to
see that for now. Let's come to maybe
frame 100 as well. Let's rotate our
camera around to maybe here Do make sure that you still have the camera
selected in the outliner. And you should see all of
these orange highlights indicating the values
that have changed. Again, press with
the cursor over location and over rotation to create new key
frames for that. And if you now rewind
and play this back, you can see that the camera now swings around the
pirate treasure chest. Let's not forget to
press again to bring out the properties panel and unlock
the camera from the view. If you now rotate your camera
and break out of that, you can see there's
the camera there. If you wind and play this back, you can see that's
the camera moving. We've now animated the location and rotation of the camera. Now so far, we've only ever
animated a single object. However, sometimes
you may want to animate multiple
objects together. While there's many different
ways to do that in Blender, let's look at one of them in
detail in the next lesson.
62. Animating Multiple Objects Together: In this lesson, we will
look at how you can link objects together
by parenting them. So you can animate
multiple objects together. Now as this plays back, it'd be really cool if the chest just dropped down from the top. It just dropped into
the scene right in the middle of this
camera move and then just ended up
right in the middle. Let's select the base of the
treasure chest and move it. The treasure chest and the
lid are two separate objects, and you can animate them completely separate
in any way you want. But it would be really
nice if the lid was moving along with anything we
did to the base right now. You can move the
base independently, and you can move the
lid independently. One cool thing in blender
that you can use, and we haven't really talked too much about that, is parenting. You can link one
object to another. So as the parent moves around
or gets scaled and rotated, that also gets
applied to the child. So they're joined together
and that's super easy to do. Make sure you have
nothing selected. First, select the
Lit hold on shift. Then select the base
of the treasure test. By the way, let's
come into the outline as well and expand
the chest collection. You can see right now there
are two separate objects, one for the lid and one for
the treasure Test itself. Make sure that the
treasure chest is the one highlighted in the brighter
color because that is your primary selection and
that's what's going to become the parent of all of the other
objects you have selected. With this particular set up and the cursor over
the three D view, press control or command. And to bring up the
parent object in here, you now have a number
of different options. But I'm simply going to select
sec, parent two objects. I'm just going to
parent these objects together in the outliner. You may have noticed that
my lid has disappeared, but I can now expand
the treasure chest. And under the treasure
chest, I now have the lid. The lid is now a child
of the treasure chest. And the great thing with
this setup is now that I can grab the treasure chest, press G. As I move it,
the lid moves around. Even cooler thing is that I can grab the lid individually, press G, and move that
independently off the base. However, if I now again
the base, the parent, press G and move
that the lid stays in its relative position to that base because
they're linked together. Let's undo that with control or command and Z until we're
back to where we started. But make sure the lid is still a child of the treasure test. Let's add some animation. Let's come back to frame one. Let's jump into camera
view by pressing zero on the numpad press and Z. Let's move this treasure test
out of the U to the top. Just a little bit
above, maybe two, About there in the properties panel with
the treasure chest selected press over
the location property to insert that keyframe. Let's come forward, and you can see the camera
animates the light animates maybe round
about frame 60. So when I want this treasure
chest to be on the bottom, G and C, Let's move the
treasure chest back down. And you can see the
lid follows along. Let's place this right
on the ground there. Again, over on the
right hand side press to insert that keyframe. Again, you can just enable auto keying if you don't want to
worry too much about it. It creates a few
additional key frames that you may not need. But that's not the end
of the world either. Now if you rewind and
play this back cool. The tress drops down from
the top and into the shot, but it looks like it's
being beam down by four. Looks really unnatural, with all our key
frames still selected. Let's simply right click
interpolation mode and change that over
to bounce again, rewind and play this back. Cool, that actually
looks really nice. Now, I might adjust the
timing a little bit. So let's click
into our timeline. To unselect
everything, click and drag around the initial ones. Want to drag these over
to maybe frame 30 or so. The box won't start dropping. Maybe around frame
2030 is a bit late there the box drops right
in. Then it comes to rest. Let's rewind and play the spec. Cool, that looks really nice. Finally, let's add a little bit of an animation of the lid opening at the end to reveal whatever is inside
your treasure chest. However, there's one
challenge with doing that, and that has to do
with the placement of the object origin. Let's talk about why
that is an issue and how to fix it in
the next lesson.
63. Changing the Object Origin: In this lesson, we will
go over how to modify the origin of an object
in blender to allow you to control the
center of rotation when you're trying to add animations
to your three D objects. If you select the lid off the Treasure test and
press R to rotate the lid, maybe press X to lock the
rotation to the X. X, well, that doesn't work. Let's just break out of camera view and have
a look at that. Every object in Blender rotates in scales
around its origin. And the origin is represented by this little orange
dot here, shift. And right click anyway to move that three D cursor
out of the way, you can see that the
little orange dot is in the center of the lid. If you press forward slash on your numpad or come
into view local view, Toggle local view to just
show the lid itself. Maybe we'll go back to material previous. Well, so
you can see that. You can see that the origin of the lid is right in the middle. And therefore, any
rotation you do, any scaling you do happens
around this origin. However, you can actually change the position of this
origin for every object. Let's press control
or command and Z a couple of times to make
sure we reset our lid. Not to press forward slash on numpad again to go
back into local view. So I can see what
I am doing now. I want to move the origin alone. Now there are quite a number of different options and I
can tell that right now blender has a bit of a
buck and you can see my tools are overlapping
my main head out here. And I've noticed this
inversion 2.9 and inversion 3.0 and there's actually
quite an easy fix for that. You can simply come in
to edit preferences. Let me bring this
in in interface, make sure you disabled region overlap and the
moment I do that, you'll see my options
and everything else. Come back here. I do not
know why this is happening. It's a buck in blend
that's been reported. So hopefully they'll
get to fix that soon. Now with my object selected, if I press and move, I'm moving the entire object. However, if you pop
open these options, there's an option here to say, Transform Effects Origins only. And you can tick that in here. Now if you press, you're actually only moving
that origin point. And that's exactly what we want. Now if you don't
have this enabled, you're moving the
entire object and this option is actually available in another
spot as well. You can also press N to bring up the properties panel under tool. The options are also in here. If you don't have this
options dropped down for whatever reason
you don't want to go through the interface fix, You also have that
exact same option down in here in the properties
panel if you wanted to. Let's press three on your
Numpad to come into side view. Let's press to move
that origin points. Move it over to the
right hand side, just onto that hinge
point right there. Actually, let's press seven
to go into top view as well. X, make sure that's centered
right on the treasure chest, right where you would
expect the hinge to sit. That looks pretty good. Come into options. Disable
affects only origins. If you now press R X, you can now rotate the lid around that hinge because again, it always rotates around
that origin point. Cool. Let's exit local view by pressing Ford on the num pad. Again, if you don't
have a numpad, you can come into
view local view, tal local view back out. Make sure that that
origin point is at the back side of
your treasure chest. If you moved it to the
other side accidentally, you can always again just enable move the origin and move
it around in there. And you don't need to
be local view for that, even if I now effects
only origin and y, I can now move the origin point for that treasure
chest around freely. But let's undo that
with control or command and I'm
happy where it is. Options, make sure you have
effects only Origin disabled. And let's actually just go back into Render
View because it just looks a bit nicer
like that in B. Now we're in a
position where we can animate this lid to open up. Let's come back, maybe let's go into camera
view again with zero on the numpad about frame 60, maybe 65, with the lid selected. Come over to the right inside, press over the rotation
to insert a key frame. Let's come to maybe
frame 110, our X. And let's open up that
lid as far as we want to, maybe to round
about there again, to create a new keyframe. And by default, this will
be a Psi interpolation. So it'll open slowly, and then it slows down towards
the end, which looks nice. Let's rewind and play this back one more time without
anything selected. Cool, that looks really nice. Now one thing we
haven't actually touched on yet is how
to adjust the value of an existing key frame if you want to further
refine your animations. Let's talk about that
in the next lesson.
64. Adjusting Existing Keyframes & Animations: In this lesson, we will learn how you can adjust the value of an existing keyframe to
further tweak your animations. Now noticing that
the treasure chest sits a little bit high
up in the camera view, especially once the lid
is opened all the way. And I'd love this to be a
little bit more centered. So let's re select our camera. I must going to fix
that last keyframe. Make sure you are on the
last keyframe right here, you're not next to it,
you're on that key frame. And the properties are
indicated as orange. Let's press n come to view. And again, lock the camera to view because I want to modify the position and rotation
of the camera for this particular
frame right here. And I'm just going to rotate up a little bit and
maybe down just so that we can make sure that the entire treasure
test is in view. Maybe around about there. Again, don't forget to
press with the cursor over those properties to
insert new keyframes and update them again. You can also right click and
select replace key frame because there's an existing one already in blended
recognizes that. But just make sure that
this is all back to yellow so it's baked in
with the new position. Now if you remind, let's
unlock the camera again, recommend you don't
forget that press to hide that property
panel again. And let's play our
animation back again. Yeah, that looks much better. But again, feel
free to animate and add anything to the
scene that you want. But now let's finally talk
about how you can export your animations into video
files in the next lesson.
65. Exporting Animations & Videos: In this lesson you
will learn how to export your
animations from Blender. Individual files that you can then share with
friends or family, or random people all
across the Internet. Now one thing I
always like to do, especially if you have
some fast animations, like a chest dropping down here, come into the render
properties and in EV, or whether using cycles
enable motion blur. Just as a little bit
of that motion blur to any moving objects makes them look a little
bit more organic. But now let's come to
the output properties. At the top here, you can
define the resolution. So right now it's
set to ten ADP, which is 1920 by 1080. You also have a dropdown
of presets here for four K or different in our NTSC versus Pal or
whatever you want to. It's going to leave all
of that as per normal. You also have your frame,
start and end time in here. These ones just replicate
what you see in the timeline. So as you adjust these values, you'll see them here as well. Maybe. Let's make sure. Okay, let's leave this at 150. You can adjust your
frame rate as well, but I'd like to use
24 frames per second, which is most common
used for movies. Then a little bit further down, you'll find the output
settings right now. It will write to my C
drive on a temp folder. Again, you can just pop
this open and browse a file location where you
want to save your file into. So let's just jump into
the tutorial folder here. Let's go into Render.
And maybe let's call this treasure chest. You don't need to add a
file extension at all. That's going to happen
when we export the video. Anyway, let's hit except, so that's now our output file. We want to add file extensions. And now we want to change
the file format from a PNG unless you want to export
this as a PNG image sequence. Let's just pop this open. The one you most likely
want is Mpc video, which is the most standard way. Now I do recommend pop open the encoding options down here, and I recommend set
your video codec to H 20064 unless you have some
special requirements. It's the most common one
for high definition video. It gives you good compression
so the files won't get too big and it retains
pretty good quality. You can also tweak the
output quality here. You can either go lossless
or say low quality, medium, maybe let's go high quality, It's just a couple
of seconds of video. And you can tweak some
additional advanced parameters here if you want to, Again, play with the quality of that output video
with all of that set up in order to render
the file coming to render in Select to
render animation. Blender is now going to
render all of these frames out and package them into
a single video file. Then on your hard drive
you should find a file. This one's called Treasure Chest 00120150 because that was frame, it's about 2 megabytes in
size which is in Tibet. And if you double
click that, here's the final animation that we created and exported
from blender. Now if you don't like that, this is an MKV file
in blender itself. In the output settings, you can change the
container from Metrosca, which gives you
the MK four file, to MP four, or a quick time MOV file or AVI or any other
format that you want. So feel free to play
with this if you don't like the MKV format. Now, I hope that this gives you enough to get started
using Blender. As I mentioned,
there's so many things we haven't touched on yet. And if there's
anything in particular you'd like me to cover
and add to this course, just let me know down below. But hopefully this
got you excited about the possibilities
of Blender and pass the initial learning
curve to start creating your own three
D models and animations.
66. Class Project: So how did you go? Did you practice your skills
along the way? If not, this is the perfect
opportunity to practice and solidify all of your
new found skills with a little bit of a project. What I would love you to do is create your own three D scene, your own three D model,
or your own animation. Anything you'd want
with the stuff you've learned in this course. And then render that out as a still image or an animation. And share it if
you're comfortable. If you're not
comfortable sharing it, totally fine. You
still get to practice. You still get to apply
the knowledge and hopefully it'll make it
stick better in your brain. I can't tell you
often enough how important it is to practice,
experiment, tinker. It makes a world of a
difference and it'll make you feel so much more
comfortable using blender that I think we're slowly coming to the end of the course. And I'll see you in
the very last lesson.
67. Thank You!: And that's all there
is to it. I really hope you enjoyed this course and hopefully now you're
comfortable creating your own the D scenes and
animations in blender. Including the modeling
the materials, the texture mapping,
the key framing, and exporting all
of that either into a nice still image or into
an actual movie file. And hopefully now you feel
confident enough to move on to some of the more advanced topics and all of the other cool stuff. And the cool learning
materials and projects that you can find
out there for Blender. If you enjoyed this
course, check out some of the other courses
I'm teaching as well. I would love to see
your faces again. And of course, whether
you like it or not, I would love to
hear your feedback. Please leave me a
comment rate the course, let me know what you liked
and didn't like about it. Obviously, I love
to hear good stuff, but I also like to hear the things that
didn't work for you. Stuff that you think I missed, or other things you
would like to have included just so that I
can improve this course, make it better, and
make it a more fun and complete
learning experience. If you'd like to stay in touch, you can find me out
there in most of the popular Internet platforms. It'd be great to hear from you. I'd really like to stay
connected to all of you for now. I wish you all the best on
your future creative journey. And with that, thank you
very much for watching, and until next time,
I will see you later.