1 almohadilla: 7 habilidades de costura con máquina para principiantes | Amy Plante | Skillshare

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1 Pillow - 7 Sewing Machine Skills for Beginners

teacher avatar Amy Plante, Multi-Passionate Creative

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Class Project


    • 3.

      Fabric 101


    • 4.

      Pattern Cutting


    • 5.

      Skill #1: Straight Stitching


    • 6.

      Skill #2: Curve Stitching


    • 7.

      Skill #3: Gathering


    • 8.

      Skill #4: Topstitching


    • 9.

      Skill #5: Hemming


    • 10.

      Skill #6: Pivoting


    • 11.

      Skill #7: Seam Finishing


    • 12.

      Beyond Pillow Making


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About This Class

Want to learn seven sewing machine skills with one simple pillow project? Of course you do! This class covers the fundamental knowledge you'll need to develop your sewing machine prowess.

A pillow is an excellent project for beginners because it teaches you basic skills that will lead you to more advanced projects like quilting and sewing your own clothes. It’s a great way to get to know your sewing machine and feel more confident using it.

This particular pillow design uses seven essential skills:

  1. Straight stitching
  2. Curve stitching
  3. Gathering
  4. Topstitching
  5. Hemming
  6. Pivoting
  7. Seam finishing

These are all skills that have a wide range of applications beyond pillow making, such as setting the sleeve of a shirt or creating your own throw blanket. My very first pillow project led me to garment sewing and eventually a BFA in Fashion Design. Imagine where your pillow could lead you!

This course is perfect for beginners who understand the basic functions of their machine, but want to start building the skills that will allow them to tackle a wide array of projects. By the end of the lesson, you’ll have both a beautiful pillow and the fundamental knowledge to take your sewing to the next level. If that sounds like your cup of tea, let’s get started!

Meet Your Teacher

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Amy Plante

Multi-Passionate Creative

Top Teacher

Hello, I'm Amy. I'm a multi-passionate creative, which is just a fancy way of saying I've never met an art technique or craft I didn't like! A few of my favorite skills are painting, illustration, sewing, and fabric dyeing.

I've always loved picking up new skills and teaching others what I've learned. My approach is always to keep it simple and let my students impress themselves with what they can do.

Follow me on Instagram to see what I'm up to with my own work and be sure to tag me when you share your projects!

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Level: Beginner

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1. Welcome!: Whether you are sitting on your bedroom floor piecing together a quilt, or creating a couture gown in oppression atelier, everyone starts with the basics. Hi, my name is Amy Plant and I'm a multi passionate creative based in New England. If you're familiar with my other classes, you may know me as a painter, but my other main passion is working with fabric, sewing, dying, and textile design. I started sewing on a machine when I was a teenager and eventually got my BFA in fashion design at Massachusetts College of Art and Design. Since then, I've been focusing on working with sustainable materials, vintage fabrics, and plant diet organic cotton. Before all that, before the textile design, the fashion shows and the bachelor's degree, I started with a humble pillow. My very first project and my very first sewing class in high school was as simple pillowcase. Nothing fancy, three pattern pieces designed to be removable and made in this really ugly floral upholstery fabric that was given to us by the teacher. Fifteen years later and I find myself still going back to that basic pillow design. But this time, I've upgraded the design into something more stylish that you'll actually want to keep. A pillow is an excellent project for beginners because it teaches you basic skills that will lead you to more advanced projects like quilting and sewing your own clothes. It's a great way to get to know your sewing machine and feel more confident using it. This particular pillow design uses seven essential skills, straight stitching, curve stitching, gathering, topstitching, hemming, pivoting, and seam finishing. These are all skills that have a wide range of applications beyond pillow making, such as setting the sleeve of a shirt or creating your own throat blanket. This course is perfect for beginners who understand the basic functions of their machine, but want to start building the skills that will allow them to tackle a wide array of projects. By the end of the lesson, you'll have both a beautiful pillow and the fundamental knowledge to take your sewing to the next level. If that sounds like your cup of tea, let's get started. 2. Class Project: Class project. In this course, we'll sew an 18-inch square color-blocked pillowcase. This case is designed to be removable so you can clean it or change out the pillow inside. You'll need a yard of a plain weave cotton fabric, such as a coating cotton and two different colors for this project, along with a few other basic tools that are listed in the downloadable PDF guide. Since you might have a different sewing machine than me, I'm not going to get into the specifics of threading or bobbin winding. To follow this lesson, you should have a basic understanding of how to use your particular machine. What we will cover is how to practice seven different essential skills using only the default stitch setting on your machine. Those skills are straight stitching, curves stitching, gathering, topstitching, hemming, pivoting, and seam finishing. I'll also go over fabric types, pattern drafting and cutting, and best practices for working with a sewing machine. The skills I will show you are applicable no matter what brand of machine you are working with. I love starting beginner sewing classes with a pillow project because you can get great results even if you don't have much sewing experience. This project is endlessly adaptable and referable. Once you learn the basic steps, you can create your own designs that reflect your personal style. When you've completed the project, please post a photo to the project gallery, and as always, post any questions you have to the class discussion section, and I'll be happy to answer them. Now, without further ado, let's dive into the essentials of working with fabric. 3. Fabric 101: Fabric 101. The type of fabric you choose for your project is crucial to your success and your overall experience with your sewing machine. Most fabrics fall into the categories of woven or knitted. Woven fabrics you are likely familiar with are quilting cotton, denim, suiting, chiffon, and satin. Knitted fabrics include t-shirt cotton, jersey, and spandex. For this project, it is important that you use a lightweight cotton fabric such as quilting cotton or another non-stretch plain weave cotton for the best results. Our home sewers can do a lot, but certain fabrics are lot more difficult to sew than others. Knitted fabrics tend to stretch and bunch up as you sew while slippery fabrics like satin or chiffon tend to be hard to control. As a beginner, woven cotton fabric is a great material to practice with. The most important thing to pay attention to when working with fabric is the grain. If your final project looks warped or misshapen, it may be because you didn't cut your pattern pieces on grain. Grain refers to the direction of the threads. When a fabric is cut on the straight of grain, it's cut parallel to either the warp or weft threads of the fabric. When a fabric is cut on the bias, it's cut at a 45-degree angle or diagonal to the threads. This way of cutting gives a non-stretchy woven fabric more stretch and is commonly used on fitted gowns and evening wear. If there is a curved edge to your pattern piece, it will likely have a stretch to it because of the angle it is hitting the grain. When determining the direction of the grain, we use the salvage of the fabric as a guide. The salvage is the non-cut edge of your fabric that runs along the top and bottom in the warp direction. These edges are finished and often have a fringe of threats. Sometimes when you buy your fabric, the person who cuts it off the bolt won't cut it perfectly on grain, so it is best to always use the salvage edge as a guide. We'll get more into cutting on the grain in the next lesson. One last thing, if you want to be able to wash your pillowcase, I recommend you pre-shrink your fabric by washing it before you cut out your pattern pieces. This is an essential step if you are sewing clothing or any other item that will be washed after it is sewn. Let's recap the important points of working with fabric. Most fabrics fall into the categories of woven or knitted. For this project, it is important that you use a woven lightweight cotton for the best results. Always pay attention to the grain of your fabric when cutting and sewing. Pre-shrink your fabric by washing it before you cut into it. Up next, I'll show you how to draft and cut the patterns for your pillow. 4. Pattern Cutting: Pattern cutting. Typically, in a sewing project, you will use paper patterns to cut out the shapes you need. For this project, we'll only be working with circles and rectangles. You can create your pattern using simple tools. If you like, plot out your pattern on cardboard or heavy card stock like oak tag so that you can reuse this pattern to make more pillows. I've outlined all the measurements and diagrams you'll need for this project in the downloadable PDF that accompanies this class. Feel free to follow along as I demonstrate. The patterns for this pillow include three basic shapes; two rectangles, and a semicircle. You'll cut two colors out of each shape. I find the easiest way to quickly draft a rectangle is to use a large L-square ruler and my trusty clear ruler. As you get into pattern drafting, you'll find that getting the right tools will make everything easier and more accurate. You can create your rectangles with whatever ruler you have on hand, but it's important that your corners are square. Otherwise, your project won't line upright when you go to sell it. For the semicircle piece, you can trace a dinner plate or another round object that is about 12 inches in diameter. That number of 12 inches isn't exact. Your final circle can be a bit larger or smaller, but I think something close to 12 inches looks the best on this size of pillow. Since this pattern piece will factor in seam allowance, it won't be a perfect half-circle. First, measure the exact diameter of your plate, divide that measurement by two to get the radius, then add a half-inch. Draw a line that is parallel to the edge of your card stock with a distance equal to the number you came up with in the last step. Now put your plate on the card stock, lining up the edge of the plate with the line you drew. Trace the plate to get your semicircle. Now you can decide if you want to make the circle bigger or not. Keep in mind that this pattern piece includes a half-inch seam allowance on all sides, so your final circle will be about an inch smaller in diameter. I decided that my circle wasn't as large as I would like, so I expanded the diameter out. This is where a clear ruler comes in really handy. This is probably the tool I use the most when I'm drafting. You can line up the pencil lines with the grid through the ruler and quickly change the dimensions of your pattern piece. When you're doing this with a grid, align the ruler, output the edge of the curve and draw a short line in small increments. This will allow you to achieve a curved edge, even though you are using a straight ruler. When you are done drafting your shapes, cut them out. Let's cut our fabric. You may be familiar with the typical way of arranging fabric for cutting, which is to fold it selvedge to selvedge so that you can cut two layers at once. But this project only needs one piece in each color. To keep things simple and economical, we're going to cut into the fabric and fold it using the selvedge edge or finished edge as a guide for cutting on grain. Before you cut, be sure to iron your fabric. I know it's tedious to iron a big piece of fabric, but if there are creases underneath your pattern pieces, your project will come out wonky. Our fabric is ironed and laid out and we're ready to cut out our templates. In a commercial pattern, there will be a line running down the middle or edge of each pattern piece that lets you know how to arrange your pattern piece, so it is aligned with the grain of the fabric. Since this project is using simple geometric shapes, we can just use the straight edge of our pieces to line up with the straight of grain. Try to be economical with your fabric. I like to align straight edges next to each other to maximize space. However, you arrange your pieces, it is crucial that a straight edge on each piece is parallel to the selvedge. This will mean that your pattern piece is on grain. Use a ruler to double-check that each end of the straight edge is the same distance to the selvedge. This is another instance where a clear ruler really comes in handy. When you have them arranged how you like, trace the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, a disappearing ink pen, or a pencil and cut them out. You'll do this process for both colors of fabric. When you're done, you should have six pieces total, two colors for each shape. Let's recap the basics of pattern drafting and cutting. Using well-drawn pattern pieces and cutting the fabric on the grain are essential to success with your project. Using a clear ruler and an L square will help you to achieve straight lines and precise corners. Use the selvedge edges as a guide to keep your pattern pieces on the street of grain of the fabric. Try to be economical with your pattern placement to use the least amount of fabric. Up next, I'll show you the seven essential sewing machine skills as we work through sewing this pillow step-by-step. First step is the straight stitch. 5. Skill #1: Straight Stitching: Skill number 1, straight stitching. Straight stitching is the skill you'll use the most often when using your sewing machine. But before we get into it, let's get our pattern pieces ready to be sewn. First we are going to sew the two semi-circles together to make a full circle, as well as sewing the 210 by 19 inch rectangles together along one side. Lay the two semi-circles on top of each other with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. If the front and back of your fabric looks exactly the same, then you don't need to worry about right sides and wrong sides. But one of my fabrics has a pattern, so I'm going to be careful about making sure that right side faces in when I sew my seams. Pin the two pieces along the straight edge. I always have my pins perpendicular to the edge I'm sewing because I find that I can more easily pull them out as I sew, and there's less chance of me accidentally sewing into a pin. On the 210 by 19 inch rectangles, pin them together along one of the long edges. Now we're ready to start sewing. On your sewing machine, you will probably have some guide for lining up the edge of your fabric depending on the width of your seam allowance. For the majority of our sewing, we will be using a half-inch seam allowance. Look out for that half-inch measurement on your machine. If you find this guide difficult to see or keep track of, you can put a piece of tape along the line for a more obvious guide. Just be sure you line up the tape straight. I am using a slide on table attachment on my machine, which makes it easier to maintain control over my stitching. If your sewing machine has this option, I highly recommend it. For this project, your machine should be threaded with a regular all-purpose thread in the color of your choice. You will see the thread when we get into top stitching. Keep that in mind when selecting the color. For your needle, a size 80 or 90, also known as a 12 or 14 respectively, is fine. This is likely the default size range your machine came with when you bought it. Now that our machine is threaded and ready to go, let's sew our first stitch line. Keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with our half-inch guide, lower the presser foot onto your fabric. It is important that you always anchor your stitches at the beginning and at the end by back stitching. Lightly press the foot pedal to take two or three stitches, then hold the back stitch button on your machine to take two or three stitches in reverse, let go of the button and begin stitching forward again. With a straight stitch, it is important to remember that the machine wants to push the fabric through in a straight direction. You only need to gently guide the fabric through, not push or pull it. I use my right hand to make sure the edge of the fabric stays at the half-inch mark, while my left hand is preventing the weight of the fabric from pulling it askew. Notice how I am using a light touch. If you force your fabric through the front or pull it from the back, you are risking damage to your machine, not to mention making your stitches irregular. When you get to the end of the stitch line, backstitch just as you did in the beginning. Repeat this process to sew the seam on the rectangular pattern pieces you pinned. Make sure you're pulling your pins out as you go. If the needle hits a pin, it can break and fly up and hit you in the face. Yes, that has happened to me before, so please be careful. When you are finished, use an iron to press open the seams. It is very important that you iron your seams as you go, to get the most professional look to your final product. Let's recap the important points of straight stitching. Always backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam to anchor the thread. Use your hands to gently guide the fabric without pushing or pulling it. Pull your pins out as you go and never sew over a pin. Iron open your seams as you go for a professional finish. In the next lesson, we'll take it up a notch by stitching along a curve. 6. Skill #2: Curve Stitching: Skill number two, curve stitching. Stitching along a curve can be a lot more challenging than straight stitching. But all it takes is practice. Now that we've sewn our circle together, we will turn it into an applique that can be sewn on the front of our pillow. To get a nice clean finished edge. We will be using a technique that involves gathering the raw edge so it naturally folds inward. To do this, we will need to sell a basting stitch around the curve. A basting stitch is a longer less tight stitch that is designed to be either easily removed or pulled tight to form a gather and can be either hand sewn or a machine stitched. To sew a gathering stitch on your machine increase the stitch length to its maximum length. This setting may be a dial on your machine. For me, it's a button with a digital display, but you should follow the instructions for your particular model. Something to keep in mind is that the longer your stitch length, the faster the machine is going to feed the fabric through. You may need to sew slower than you normally would to maintain control of your fabric. With this gathering stitch, we're going to sew with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. This is where our stitch line will be hidden when we fold it under the fabric by a half-inch. If you don't have a 3/8 inch mark on your sewing machine. Move your tape over by an 1/8 of an inch as a guide. To start this gathering stitch, we will not be backstitching. This is because we want the threads to be loose so we can pull the gathers later. Go ahead and start stitching, going slowly. Whereas the straight stitch didn't need a lot of guiding on our part, the curve stitch requires constant adjustment. Go as slow as you need to. If you watch my left hand, I'm using it to slowly turn the fabric in between stitches. Again, you don't want to force the fabric, just gently guide it, keeping the edge of the fabric in line with the 3/8 inch mark. Something to keep in mind when sewing a curve is that a curved edge will have some stretch to it. It's especially important that you don't target the fabric because it could warp. When you've made it around the whole circle, stop right before you reach your starting point and cut your thread with extra tail. Be sure to adjust your stitch length back to the default setting as we will be using a normal stitch length for the rest of the project. Before we move on to the next step, let's quickly recap the tips for stitching along a curve. Go as slow as you need to maintain control of your fabric. Use your left hand to slowly turn the fabric with every stitch. Remember that curved edges have stretched to them and can warp. Next, I'll show you how to gather a longer stitch line. 7. Skill #3: Gathering: Skill number three, Gathering. Now it's time to gather our raw edge using the basting stitches we just sewed. To form a gather, you'll pull two of the thread tails at the ends of our stitch line. Now, you can either pull the two threads on the front of the circle or the two threads on the back of the circle, but you can't do one on each side or you won't be able to move your gathered folds. I'm choosing to pull the threads on the front of the fabric because it will be easier once the edge starts to fold over onto the back. Start with one of these threads and pull it. As you pull, move the gathers that are forming to distribute them evenly around the circle. Be aware of the other thread tail because if you pull too much, eventually you will just pull all the stitches out. As you are creating your gathers, you should notice that your raw edge is tightening and forming a natural fold along the edge of the circle. Our goal is for the fabric to fold at half an inch. You will likely have to loosen the gathers to get a clean fold. I find it easier to start with more gathers and gradually ease them out. The gathers should be contained within the fold line so they can't be seen from the other side. When you are happy with your fold, give it a press with an iron to create a crisp edge. Flip the circle over to the front side and press it again to lay flat. To recap, only pull the threats from one side of the fabric, either the front or backside. Gather gradually and move the folds along the perimeter of the circle. Pay attention to your thread ends so you don't pull all your stitches out. Iron your fold when you're done to get a crisp edge. Next, I'll show you how to topstitch the applique onto the pillow. 8. Skill #4: Topstitching: Skill number four, topstitching. With our circle pressed and finished, we're ready to attach it to the front of our pillow. I'm going to show you how to attach the circle using a method called topstitching. Topstitching is a type of stitch that is meant to show on the final piece. It can be decorative, functional or both. Before we sew, we need to pin the two fabric pieces together. Place the circle face up on the right side side the fabric square you sewed earlier. The circle should be orientated so that the center seams are aligned and the colors that are stacked are the opposite of one another. Use a ruler to center the circle among the center seam. For an applique such as this, I like to use pins that I will take out as I sew, as well as pins that are far enough away from the stitch line that I can leave them in until I've sewn the entire applique. For this circle, I'll put a row of pins along the perimeter, as well as a second row away from the stitch line that I'll leave in. You can also hand sew some basting stitches to keep the applique in place if you'd prefer. The point is to keep the fabrics flat and flush, so the base fabric doesn't bunch up beneath the applique as you stitch. Now we are ready to topstitch. For this applique attachment, we will topstitch an eighth of an inch away from the fold. Because this measurement is so narrow, you probably won't be able to use a guideline on your machine. I used the inside notch of my presser foot as a guide for where to aim the edge of the fabric. You may have to do some measuring and practicing with your own presser foot to figure out where an eighth of an inch is. Just as we did with the straight stitching, be sure to backstitch to anchor your thread. You'll notice as you sew along the curve that you have more control with turning your fabric than you did when you were sewing the basting stitches. This is because the shorter stitch length makes the fabric feed through the machine slower, giving you more time to change the angle. Sew around the entire circle then backstitch to finish. Let's go over the tips for topstitching. Topstitching can be decorative, functional or both. Unlike a basting stitch, topstitching should be anchored with back stitching. Use your presser foot as a measurement reference when sewing narrower widths. Topstitch an eighth of an inch away from a fold line or a seam for a classic look. The hardest part of selling this pillow is over. Now let's move on to hemming. 9. Skill #5: Hemming: Skill number five, hemming. Hemming is a very useful skill to learn and is a way of finishing a raw edge that will be seen from the outside. You're probably familiar with hemming in regards to pants or skirts. Even though we are making a pillow and not a garment, we'll be using a hemming technique to create clean finished edges on the back of the pillow where it opens. This type of hem is a simple half-inch double fold hem, topstitched in place. This hem doesn't work well on curved edges, but is perfect for the straight edges of the pillow opening. We will be working with the two larger rectangular pattern pieces for this technique. First, let's draw a line on the wrong side of the fabric, one inch away from the long edge. Use something that won't show through to the other side. I'm using tailor's chalk. Next, turn the edge of the fabric so it meets the line and forms a half-inch fold, pressing with an iron as you go. Now fold this over one more time, a half of an inch and iron flat. Pin your fold to keep it in place. Sew the fold with a straight stitch, either an eighth of an inch from the right of the inner fold or three-eighths of an inch from the left of the outer fold, whichever is easier for you visually. Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end as we have been doing. Repeat the same process with your other rectangle. Here are a couple of things to remember with hemming. This technique is best for finishing raw edges that will show on the outside of your piece. A double folded hem is best for straight edges and doesn't work well with curves. Use the iron before you sew to create creased folds. Now let's learn about straight stitching's companion, pivoting. 10. Skill #6: Pivoting: Skill number six, pivoting. Pivoting is an extremely simple skill that is an essential part of sewing seams. But before we get into that, it's time to unite the front and back of our pillow. Lay the front of your pillow with the right side facing up. Lay one of the rectangle box with the right side facing down so the raw edges line up with the front. I'm choosing to have my pillow opening be perpendicular to the front center seam. But you can definitely arrange the pieces so the opening is parallel instead, if you prefer. Pin this piece along the raw edges. Begin sewing a straight stitch with a half inch seam allowance. When you get near the corner of the pillow, slow down. Our goal is to find the pivot point that is a half-inch from the right edge of the fabric and a half-inch from the front edge facing us. I will often use the hand-crank to take a stitch at a time when I get close. When you think you've found it, use the hand crank to drop the needle down so it pierces the fabric. With the needle still down, lift up the presser foot and pivot your fabric so the front edge is now the right edge. If you find that you've miscalculated and your new edge is more than a half inch away from the needle, you can pivot back to the original fabric orientation. Take another stitch and pivot again. You'll need to pivot twice before you finish this seam, back stitch when you reach the folded edge of the back panel. Now repeat the process with the last back panel. When you pin the other panel, make sure all your fabric is laying flat and smooth. Pin and stitch as you did before. So when you're pivoting, remember, slow down and use the hand crank on your machine to find the pivot point. Make sure your needle is in the down position before lifting up the presser foot. You can always pivot back and take another stitch if you find you are in the right spot after you've turned the fabric. So now your pillow is done, but I have one more bonus skill to show you, seam finishing. 11. Skill #7: Seam Finishing: Skill number seven, seam finishing. Now that you've completed your pillow you can decide whether you want to finish the edges on your seams. With something like an item of clothing, it's important that you finish the seams in some way as they will go through friction and stress over time, and also because you'll be able to see them from the inside. With something like a pillow, however, where the seams won't be visible when it's being used you can decide to skip this step. But I encourage you to give it a go as it is a great chance to practice this technique. Now there are many different ways to tidy up the raw edges of your seams. The one I'm going to show you today is called a mock French seam. In a regular French seam, the raw edges are hidden within the seam itself, producing a clean-looking fold on the inside. But the process is time-consuming and can be a little confusing. A mock French seam is a cheap way to get a similar look. It starts with ironing your seams open flat, then each raw edge is folded to meet in the middle along the seam and ironed again. Then finally, each side is brought together to hide the raw edges and the whole thing is topstitch close. I only put pins around the corners, but you can definitely pin all the way around if you need to. Just as we did when we topstitched the circle we will be sewing an eighth of an inch in from the edge of our mock French seam. You can use this type of seam finishing for most straight seams. But similarly to a double folded hem, it does not work well around curves. However, for a simple square like this, it works nicely. When you're finished you will have a professional-looking edge. Some key points to remember, seam finishing cleans up raw edges and gives longevity and strength to your seams. Seam finishing is essential for garments and items where the inside will be visible. Mock French seams are great for finishing straight seams but don't work well around curves. We've finished our pillow. You can now fill it with an 18-inch pillow insert of your choice. Please post a photo of your pillow to the project gallery when you're finished. I'd love to see what color combinations you chose. If you have any questions or run into any challenges, reach out in the class discussion and I'd be happy to help. 12. Beyond Pillow Making: You've made this fabulous pillow. Now what? The sky's the limit. The seven skills I've shown you can be applied to so many other more advanced projects. Now that you've mastered straight stitching, pivoting, and hemming, you can make curtains, tablecloths, throw blankets, and aprons. With your new skills in gathering, curve stitching, and seam finishing, you can tackle a long sleeve shirts, gathered skirts, and ruffles. With the basics of top stitching under your belt, you can move on to machine embroidery, quilting, and give a pair of handmade jeans a truly professional finish. I hope you feel empowered to take these simple skills and apply them to more ambitious projects. Remember that every new craft takes lots of practice to master. Make more pillows and give them as gifts to friends and family and in the process, you'll be steadily mastering seven essential skills. If you post your project on Instagram, please tag me @art.witch_. I would love to see what you create. Until then, keep in touch and happy sewing.