Blog post – book review

Travel Writing Treasures

Swimming With Seals by Victoria Whitworth

I picked up this book as I was traversing the Orkney Islands for the first time, as I wanted a to read more about these ancient islands to enrich my journey. Perusing the bookshelves at the Orcadian Bookshop in Kirkwall – the diminutive capital of the archipelago – Victoria Whitworth’s attractive book cover featuring a silvery embossed illustration of a woman and a seal in a choppy sea caught my attention. I picked it up and read the blurb on the back, the word ‘folklore’ jumped out at me – I was sold.

In brief this book is a personal memoir about the transformative and ultimately healing power of wild swimming on the body and soul as the author endures several crises: losing her mother, a divorce, becoming a single parent as well as severe physical pain – all gradually cured and processed in the wildlife-rich waters which lap the shores of Orkney.

The author moved to the islands to live and work for a few years before moving back to the mainland. As a ‘ferry louper’ (an incomer) she views her new island home from the perspective of an outsider, never seeming to truly belong to the tight knit communities which surround her. But with the land and sea we see a more enriching relationship emerge.

Orkney feels like a second character in the book; it’s landscape, natural history, plentiful wildlife, history, folklore, and archaeology are brought to life with Whitworth’s erudite musings as she swims the islands’ sheltered bays, watching the various seabirds go about their business and encountering the occasional curious seal.

As a Medieval historian who specialises in death and burial practices, Whitworth is extremely knowledgeable about the layers of history that are unearthed here. ‘Scratch the surface in Orkney and it bleeds archaeology’ is a popular saying and from what I experienced this is undeniably true. A visit to the small, crammed museum in Kirkwall will testify to this. Aside from the well-known tourist traps of Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar and the recent ongoing archaeological dig at Stenness, there are countless burial sites from different ages; Neolithic, Bronze Age, Pictish, Viking, Medieval, as well as ruined brochs, chambered cairns and stone circles.

This is far from being an academic thesis however as Whitworth discusses each topic from an accessible and deeply human perspective as she swims around the coastline, weaving in folklore, poetry, and her childhood in Kenya, amongst many more fascinating subjects.

The book does not follow a chronological journey or story, it’s more of a thoughtful and oftentimes insightful meander through each subject and is not broken up with chapters but with delightful ‘vignettes’ about her daily swims, including details about the wind and water temperature, sea quality and wildlife. Apparently, these are from her Facebook posts which were the original inspiration for the book. I also love how she uses an illustration of the mysterious Pictish ‘beast’ as page breakers. As such this is the kind of book which can be opened at any page and enjoyed without needing to recall what has already transpired.

For me this is a sparkling piece of travel writing - Orkney itself is described in such an intimate and evocative way that it reads like some of the best travel narratives I have read. Swimming with Seals is a delightful read, ideal for anyone with a curiosity about Orkney and Scottish island life.

Jade Hassan

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