iPhone Photography: How to Take Pro Photos On Your iPhone | Dale McManus | Skillshare

iPhone Photography: How to Take Pro Photos On Your iPhone

Dale McManus

Play Speed
  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x
19 Lessons (51m) View My Notes
    • 1. Introduction: What You Will Learn

    • 2. Photographer's Definition of Photography

    • 3. Setup: Turn OFF Live Photo

    • 4. Setup: Turn ON HDR and The Grid

    • 5. Focus Tapping, Exposure Control, etc

    • 6. Shot Composition: Introduction

    • 7. Shot Composition: Perspective

    • 8. Shot Composition: Vantage Point

    • 9. Shot Composition: Rule of Thirds

    • 10. Shot Composition: Deadspace

    • 11. Shot Composition: Creating Depth

    • 12. Surrounding Light and Filling the Frame

    • 13. Shooting Macro on the iPhone

    • 14. Storytelling in Photography

    • 15. Editing Your Photos in Lightroom

    • 16. How to Create Presets in Lightroom

    • 17. How to Make a Portrait Pop (Lightroom Tutorial)

    • 18. Final Words: Be Adventurous

    • 19. Final Words: Memorize the Rules and Break Them

724 students are watching this class

About This Class

This online photography course will teach you everything you need to be a professional digital photographer with nothing more than an iPhone or similar smartphone. You'll learn all the basics of professional iPhone photography in this course as well as plenty of tips and tricks that you can use during every day shooting to make your photos stand out from the rest.

This course is designed for:

-Beginners that have little to no experience and want to become a skilled photographer without spending thousands of dollars on expensive camera equipment.

-Anyone that wants to develop a more impressive portfolio or social media account (i.e. Instagram).

-Anyone that wants to turn digital photography into a career. 

Here's some of what you will learn:

-How to take stunning photos by utilizing shot composition.

-How to optimize your iPhone camera settings for taking the best photos.

-How to create depth in your photography

-How/Why the best photographers tell stories in their photos.

-How to utilize surrounding light to properly light your subjects

-How to professionally edit photos in Lightroom (free) on your iPhone.

-Tips, tricks, and much more!


1. Introduction: What You Will Learn: What's up guys. Welcome to the iPhone photography course. My name is Dale and I'm a professional photographer, videographer and award winning YouTuber. I have a Bachelor's degree in Film Science and seven years experience in the field of photography and filmmaking. Here's a few of my photos I've taken completely with my iPhone. No fancy expensive camera apps, no additional lenses, just my phone. My number one rule in photography is 10 percent gear and 90 percent what's up gear. If you don't have an iPhone that's okay you can follow along with almost any smartphone. But this course is designed around the latest iPhone and iOS. Throughout this course show lots of example images, screen recordings and graphics to better illustrate the course material and keep you engaged from start to finish. I'll also be adding a recap slide at the end of most of the lectures. So, you can just sit back and enjoy the course material without having to worry about taking notes until the end. We will cover everything from set up, to shot composition, to editing your photos and everything in between. This course is designed for anyone that wants to become a skilled photographer and develop a more impressive portfolio or social media account without spending $1,000 on expensive cameras and lenses. In this course you're going to learn a lot of great tips for becoming a better photographer with your iPhone. Here's just a few of the things that you're going to learn: How to take stunning photos by utilizing shot composition and how it affects your shots, how to optimize your iPhone camera settings for taking the best photos, how to create depth the near photography, how and why the best photographers tell stories in their photos, how to utilize surrounding light to properly light your subjects, how to professionally edit photos in Lightroom on your iPhone and the app is free. 2. Photographer's Definition of Photography: Photography, no matter what you're shooting with, is more than the act of capturing an image. Photography is vision. It's imagination. It's resourcefulness, adventure, and originality. It's seeing the final result before tapping the shutter. It's not what you look at that matters but what you see. Anyone can click a button and take a photo, but envisioning and creating a photo worth showing is a skill that is learned and practiced but most importantly, photography does not make perfect sense. It just has to make some sense. Photography is very arbitrary and hard to find a true science in. Most art forms are. The nonsensical art that can mean anything to anyone of any background is usually lazy art. This is the kind of art where someone puts a red handprint on a canvas and says that it symbolizes the political regimes in the Middle East. No. Put down the crack pipe and put in some effort. With that being said, let's jump right in. 3. Setup: Turn OFF Live Photo: Okay. First, we're going to talk about pre-shooting setup. So, before you run out and put sunglasses on your dog, we have to get you set up with the right settings. First, turn off live photo. Live photo is for sending your grandma pictures of your cats licking each other. There's no reason to have this enabled while taking professional photos. Live photo mode takes a 1.5-second video with audio before and after taking your picture. So, you end up with this three-second live photo that consist of one good frame and another three seconds of awkward smiling and some blurry movement. Turn it off. You won't need it. Just go to the camera, the top middle circular button, just tap it and turn it white. 4. Setup: Turn ON HDR and The Grid: Next, turn on HDR. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range, which is just a fancy word for capturing multiple exposures in the same shot. It takes a very bright image to properly expose for the shadows, a neutral image to expose for the mid tones, and a darker image to properly expose for the highlights. It combines all of them into one balanced photo with well lit highlights and well lit shadows. This is very helpful to color correcting later and keeping you from blowing out parts of your image with too much light. To turn it on, just go to the settings, navigate to camera, and turn on auto HDR. Next, turn on the grid. The grid is very helpful for showing rule of thirds, which we'll go over what that is later as well as how to use it properly. The grid is also really helpful to get a level frame with the horizon. To turn it on, just go to the settings, camera, grid, switch to on. 5. Focus Tapping, Exposure Control, etc: Okay. Next, we have to go over focus tapping, exposure control, and lock focus. These are really important features that are pretty simple in the iPhone camera app but a lot of people don't know that they're there. First, focus tapping. When an object is in focus, that means it's within the depth of field. Depth of field is another photography term for the range of sharpness in an image. You can have a large depth of field, where everything is in focus or you can have a small depth of field where one subject might be in focus and the background is blurry, much like professional digital cameras nowadays. Since the iPhone is completely touchscreen, Apple has integrated an auto focus, which works fantastically for almost any shot. But if you're shooting macro which is close up, you may need to change your focus. Start by pointing the camera up close to an object in your nearby surrounding. You can now tap on the screen on the background to focus on the back of the image or tap on the subject in the foreground to shift focus back to the subject. Next, exposure control. Once you've set your focus on an object in the frame, you can now slide your finger up and down on the screen to lighten or darken your image. The iPhone also has an auto-exposure feature that automatically sets the proper exposure for whatever object you tap to focus. If you want to lock focus, Apple has also integrated a feature to lock the focus on whatever subject you select, no matter if you change the camera position. Enable this by tapping and holding your finger on the object of your choosing. A yellow box will appear on the top of the screen that says AE AF lock. Which stands for auto exposure and auto focus lock. Also, quick tip. Never use digital zoom. This is when you use two fingers to zoom in and it greatly decreases the resolution of your image. This turns an HD photo into a blurry pile of crap. If you need a better shot, simply walk closer to the subject. Now, let's go over how to optimize pano mode. Panoramic mode is where your phone takes a series of pictures from left to right and automatically stitches them together to create a 180 degree image of your surroundings. This often looks far too wide and very annoying to try to post on social media. But there's a trick to using it to create a really stylish wide angle photo, that looks as though you bought a special lens for your phone, or like a GoPro. Simply open the camera, swipe left to slide over the Pano function. Tap the shutter which is the white button. There's an important thing going slowly because the camera has continually set a new exposure for each frame as you move. If done right, you'll end up with a very GoPro style, wide angle photo that can look very professional. This feature can also be used vertically to take extra tall photos. Keep in mind, that the closer you stand to your subject the better that this is going to look. If the base of your subject fills the frame when you start it. It will usually end up looking really nice. I use this a lot when I photograph architecture. 6. Shot Composition: Introduction: The yellow brick road out of mediocrity, shot Composition. Shot composition is the make it or break it between professionalism and amateur hour. You could take the trip of a lifetime and tell your best friend you're standing in front of a landscape so beautiful, it could be a Macbook screensaver, and take a photo that even your mother wouldn't hang on the fridge. Shot composition is the fix for this. So what is a shot? It's just a frame with objects and shapes arranged to make up a composition. So, shot composition is arranging these objects and shapes with purpose. Let's face it. We're impatient creatures. In the first quarter second that our eyes look at a picture, they subconsciously try to gather the most important parts of the image before your brain even has time to catch up. So, when you look at an uncomposed image, your eyes take too long to find the subject thus judging the photo as bad. When you look at a composed image, your eyes take less time to find the subjects and gather the information thus saving your brain time. Your brain likes this. This is why learning about shot composition is so important because it helps guide the viewers' eyes through the image as quickly as possible. So, with that being said, here are the four basic types of shot composition I want you to commit to memory. Head on to the next lesson to find out. 7. Shot Composition: Perspective: Number one, perspective. You can use different angles to change the feeling of any shot. If there's a shot that you want but your first attempt looked kind of iffy, a simple change of perspective may get you what you're looking for. There are four basic types: low angle, high angle, lateral movement, first person POV. Low angle brings the viewer back to a child's perspective. The world seems so much bigger and your subject is much more superior at this angle. This angle is achieved by simply being lower to the ground than your subject and shooting up at it. Take this city for example, the lower that you shoot the bigger the city looks. Typically when we look up to something we value it highly. The same goes for photography. High angle. High angle can make your subject appear smaller and increase the depth of an image. Try getting above your subject and shooting down at it. Lateral movement. This is basically moving left to right on a lateral plain or right to left. Take this for example, three images of a road just taken at three different positions on a lateral plane. You can position the camera on the left, right, or center and anywhere in-between to change the viewer's perspective. Try out different lateral positions while photographing a subject and see what angle you like most. First person POV. POV stands for point of view. First person POV shots are great because it places the viewer in the eyes of the photographer. It creates realism by placing arms or legs in the shot. You can get a wide angle POV shot like this by using the pano trick that I talked about earlier. 8. Shot Composition: Vantage Point: Number two, vantage point. This is one of the most helpful concepts for photographers to find great photos everywhere they look. A vantage point, is a point of focus created by leading lines. Your eyes like to be guided. So we use lines in everyday life to steer or lead the viewer to a single point. These lines can be found in almost anything. Buildings, streets, trees, mountains, water, and plenty more. These lines begin at the outside of the frame and travel inwards to a single point. There are two different types of leading lines, geometric and organic. Geometric lines are found in streets and buildings. They are straight and much more obvious to follow. Organic lines are often found in nature such as mountains, rivers, pathways, trees, or even reflections on the water. They tend to bend and curve much more than geometric lines, but always lead to a specific area. These lines can simply be the contrast between light and shadow. Or even between colors like a green mountain against a blue sky. Here's an example of geometric, and another example where the railings, sidewalks, and tops of the building all lead to the right third of the frame. Here's an example of organic. Lastly, this one doesn't use exact lines, but rather the bottoms of the trees all line up to one single spot. 9. Shot Composition: Rule of Thirds: Number three, Rule of Thirds. Rule of Thirds was created by John Thomas Smith back in 1797 when he wrote his book, "Remarks on Rural Scenery", and it's actually less of a rule and more of a guideline. This old guy staring at cows and tall grass had a point though. Rule of Thirds is the act of separating your frame into nine parts, but most importantly, three columns. You can place a subject in the left or right third to draw attention to the composition as a whole rather than a single centered point of focus. This is often done by placing a person on either side of the foreground and another subject on the opposite side such as a mountain, or a lake, or a building, or a sunset. This is where the grid function comes in handy. Check out this image. If the girl were in the center, your eyes would immediately go straight to her. But since she's positioned on the left third of the frame, your eyes now focus on the entire image, girl and background together. Neither angle is wrong, but the Rule of Thirds gives you the option to include the background as a second subject in the scene. If you're taking a picture with a human subject like this one, Rule of Thirds is also great because it gives us a wider picture of what the subject is looking at. It tells a story, which we're going to talk about later. 10. Shot Composition: Deadspace: Last but not least, dead space. This is a good way to capitalize on a great photo with minimal searching. Dead space is considered any space behind a subject that does not have any other elements to distract the viewer from the subject. Use it to highlight a single subject with nothing more than a wide open area. This is achieved best with backgrounds that are very far away, empty, and or have one general tone of color. 11. Shot Composition: Creating Depth: How to create depth in your photography. Understanding what depth is and photography is just as important as using it. Depth is the feeling of distance and separation from your subject. Many of the best photographers in the world use one simple trick to add depth to their photos, and by simple I mean very simple. They show us the ground. Take this photo of a city skyline for example. You can add a lot more depth to this photo, by simply taking the picture vertically, and exposing the ground. The importance isn't in the camera rotation, as much as it is showing how far away you are from your subject, subject being the city. The easiest way to do this is by putting the ground in your shot. Here's another example of a great shot but here it is with far more depth, because we've exposed the street below. 12. Surrounding Light and Filling the Frame: Surrounding light and how to use it. Surrounding light, whether it be from the Sun or a street lamp can be your best friend or your worst enemy depending on your direction. This seems obvious, but most people don't realize it. Shooting in the same direction that the light is traveling can brighten up your entire subject and its surroundings. So, if your scene is too dark, you should try changing your shooting direction to match the direction of the light source. On the contrary, shooting into the light can create a really nice silhouette if positioned properly and exposed properly. Exposure is the amount of light per unit area. This is just a fancy way of saying how bright or dark a picture is when you take it. The best time to shoot in almost any setting is that golden hour which is the hour before sunrise or sunset. This is because the light is softer and coming from one single direction closer to the horizon. Here's some examples. This was shot looking into the light which creates a really nice silhouette. A silhouette is when your subject is completely dark against a very bright background. This shot was taking more looking into the same direction that the light is casting. The subject is well lit and so is the background. Here's a diagram of the difference between the two different shooting directions relative to the light source. Neither option is wrong. It just depends on what style that you want to achieve. Next, we're going to talk about filling the frame. This is a style choice that is done by positioning more objects in the foreground of the image to create a much fuller shot and draw your eye closer to the subject. The foreground is the front of the image. Foreground versus background. Pretty standard. You can use almost anything to fill the frame. Some simple examples are branches, trees, light posts, people and walls. It will all depend on where you're shooting and what is in your nearby surroundings. Remember, photography is resourcefulness. Here's an example of a relatively empty photo. If you've been taking nothing but dead space photos for a while and want something new, try filling the frame with different surrounding objects to make it more interesting. You might need a friend to help you with this one in particular. Whatever you choose to fill a shot with, can also help you to tell a story. More on this next. 13. Shooting Macro on the iPhone: All right guys. So, now I'm going to talk about macro photography and go outside and show you an example of how I do this myself. So, what is macro? Macro is just a film term for shooting extreme close up. Commonly done on insects and plants and other forms of nature. Back in those film days, you needed special lenses and fancy equipment in order to do this. Now, the iPhone has such a small, versatile lens, that you can go from shooting the far away landscape photography to portraits to macro photography without changing anything. But, there are a few things that you can do while shooting macro on your iPhone to get a better shot. I'm going to go outside and show you an example and talk about why I'm doing what I'm doing. All right guys. So, I'm outside and I'm going to shoot Macro of this flower. So, I'm probably only two inches away from it. If you get too close, the iPhone won't actually be able to focus. The focus on the iPhone only goes so far, but it does pretty well, you can get pretty close up. So, you've got this nice background back here with all the plants, you've got your subject. I chose this angle because the background anywhere else shows too much of the yard and unnatural elements, like this dock over here. It just doesn't look as nice. But, I like all the greenery in the background, here. It's rainy out today, which the overcast creates a really nice, soft, evenly lit subject. There's no harsh sunlight hitting this and the rain droplets look really nice and I'm geeking out over it pretty hard. So, I just want to show you one simple thing that we talked about earlier with filling the frame. I actually found these two pieces of Rosemary. It took me five seconds and just put on my finger like this and you can actually put your lens right in the center of that and create a really nice frame for your macro photography. So, I'll just take a picture. To move and a little bit, there we go. So, you've got the background, you've got the subject, and you've got the foreground covered. This creates a lot of depth in your macro photography. The reason this looks so nice is because the iPhone has such a shallow depth of field when you're this close. So, the only thing that's really in focus is my subject, which is why I added the foreground to create some more blurry objects in the front to draw your eye towards the center, but, as well as add more depth and create that really nice blurry background digital photography look that you see people taking on most Canons and Nikons and other digital cameras. So, go outside in your yard and find a few objects to practice this on. You might be surprised at what you can come up with. 14. Storytelling in Photography: Storytelling. If you were to watch a film, you would probably consider it to be a good one if it has a great story. Right? Well the same goes for photos and this is especially important for photos using people. So, if a picture is worth a thousand words, then let's tell the best story we can with those words. Whether it's film or photography, you want to bring the viewer on the adventure with you by composing your shot to convey a story. Here's a few common story types to get you thinking. Hero versus what lies ahead. You can use distance and vantage point to portray that you have somewhere to go or an unknown place lies ahead. The use of vantage point helps add a lot more depth to the scene, and the distance helps separate you from where you're going. Hero versus the world. You can use distance and perspective to portray that you are a mist a giant world or watching it from above. The objective is to make the world seem as big as possible and you're just a small part of it. When we were children, the world was such a big place and our eyes tend to look skyward. You can use low angle in your photography to show how big the world really is. It makes you seem like an ant in a jungle, or you can try high angle to add more depth. The I'm too cool for the camera. This is an easy one that you can get almost anywhere. If your eyes can bear the blinding sun for a minute, you'll end up with an epic shot that looks like credits are about to start rolling. This photo pretty much speaks for itself. This is the follow me shot. Here's another easy one if you have a significant other or don't mind holding hands with a stranger. It was popularized by a couple on Instagram in 2015. First person PRV and a decent scenery is really all you need. 15. Editing Your Photos in Lightroom: Now we're going to talk about color correcting. In order to color correct and edit your photos, you're going to need lightroom. Just go to the App Store, type in lightroom in the search, and it's Lightroom CC. This is what it looks like. Just download it and we'll get started. When you open the lightroom app, all you have to do is tap on the blue button in the bottom right and you can import a photo. I've already got one imported, so I'll just click on this one. Before you start dragging settings around like a monkey with an abacus, we need to talk about what they actually mean and how they affect an image. Feel free to adjust them individually as we go along. So if you click on the light tab at the bottom, from here you have exposure, which is what brightens or darkens the image. You have contrast, which is the difference between light and dark areas in your image. You can harshen the difference or neutralize it depending on which way you drag the adjustment. If you drag it to the right, the highlights will get a little bit brighter and the shadows will get a little bit darker. If you drag it to the left, it flattens the image. You have highlights. This is the lightest parts of your image, typically where the light hits the harshness. Dragging the slider to the right can boost your highlights more and dragging it to the left can reduce the highlights, sometimes even uncovering more detail. If you look in the mountain, when I drag the highlights all the way to the right, a lot of those white areas get pretty blown out, which can be a cool effect if that's what you're going for, but drag it to the left and there's a lot more detail. You have the shadows. These are the darker parts of your image, typically where there's a lack of light. Dragging the slider to the left can darken those shadows, if you look in the trees. Dragging to the right can lighten them up and really expose a lot of detail in those trees. You also have blacks and whites. This is the total black limit and total white limit in your image. When you set the blacks all the way to the right, you're changing how much black value is allowed to exist in your image. When you drag to the left, you greatly increase that black value. I typically don't change the blacks or the whites very much, unless I just want a little bit of an extra boost in highlights, but that'll just depend on what type of image you're editing. I really like the blown out sky look on my images, so sometimes I add just a little bit of extra white for this. Now click on the color tab. I've picked a different image because I want to explain temperature. Temperature is what changes the photo warm or cold depending on your preference, but to fully utilize temperature, you have to understand white balance. White balance is basically the tint color on your photo caused by certain lighting conditions. A lot of older bulbs when you're shooting inside emit a very orange color. While newer fluorescent lights emit more of a white and blue color. The same goes for if you're standing in the sun versus standing in the shade or looking into a sunset. Your shots may come out very orange or blue depending on what type of lighting is present. Temperatures the fix for this, so if your image is to orange, just add a little bit more blue and you can neutralize the image. If your image is too cold, you can add a little bit more orange and neutralize it that way. This image in particular is warm, so I would add a little bit more blue to expose that blue sky, unless you really like the orange look. Again, it's all depending on your preference. Next we have tint. This is the fine tune for the temperature adjustment. Again, using this adjustment will depend on what lighting conditions you're shooting in. It isn't just the pinker green slider. Certain lights emit certain hues and hue is a shade of color. The tint adjustment is just another way to neutralize this. If your image looks a little too pink, give it some green. If your image looks a little too green, give it some pink. Again, it's to neutralize, not just to add green or pink. Next we have vibrance and saturation. I have to go over saturation first. This is the overall intensity of the colors in your shot. Dragging the slider to the right can greatly boosts the colors, while dragging to the left can reduce them and bring them closer to a black and white value. Now, vibrance is the intelligent adjustment to boost the saturation of weaker colors and leaves the more saturated colors alone. If you notice when I drag vibrance, the orange doesn't pop nearly as much as it did with the saturation slider. This is because it recognizes that the orange is already very saturated, so it doesn't boost it too much more, but it does boost other surrounding colors. Now let's talk about my favorite color correction feature ever. It's the mixed button. It's still in the color tab at the top right, just click mix. This feature allows you to change individual colors. You can change the hue, which is the range of color, the saturation and luminance, which is the overall lightness of that color. It sounds a little confusing, so the best way to explain it is just to do it. Take this photo of a mountain that I took out at Mount Rainier. If I wanted to just change the blues in this photo, I just click on the blue dot. From here, I can change the color of this blue with the hue slider.So if you want to add a little bit more green to the blue or make it a little more purple, you can, it just depends on your preference, but I'm only affecting the blue. I think I'm going to add just a little bit of green to this to get a cyan color. Next, you can drag the saturation slider to the right to boost the colors intensity. So really blue or a dead type of blue, just depends on the style photo that you're going for, but again, I'm only affecting the blues. Lastly, I can drag the luminance slider to the right to brighten the blues. This takes the highlights and those blues and makes them lighter or darker, but again, only on the blues. You can do this with any color. This is another photo that I took out in Seattle at Snoqualmie falls. I can pick the oranges and I can make them more red. I could bring them back to a yellowish green. Just all depends on what you're going for. Really the best way to figure out what you like is just to drag them left and right and see what style you want. Now click on the Effects tab at the bottom right. From here you've got clarity. This is what boost the contrast in only the mid tones of your photo. This is just a fancy way of saying that it gives your photo and extra punch. It's best not to go too overboard with this effect. If you go the opposite way, it gets very soft. I like to just adjust a little bit to give it just a little bit of an extra boost. You've also got dehaze, which decreases fog and background hayes. If you take a photo at early morning when there is a lot of cloud coverage, you can use this to decrease that. Obviously dragging to the left, makes it even more foggy. You've also got vignette amount. Vignette is the darkening or brightening of the image corners. It helps you draw focus to the center. You can drag it to the left and get a dark vignette or you can drag it to the right and get a wider than yet. You can also change the midpoint, which is just what changes how close to the center you want the vignette to be. I can bring it out or I can bring it way in. The feather is what changes the amount of fade on the vignette. You can drag the slider to the right and get a very big feather, or you can drag it left and get a very sharp vignette. You also have the roundness, which is what changes the shape of the vignette. You've got more of a circle and more of a square, which adds this old photo look to it, which I like. There's a few more tabs, like detail where you can sharpen your image. You can also reduce noise, which is basically looking into a snowy television set. When you drag it forward, it blends the pixels, making it more smooth. You really don't need to worry about the optics tab. I've never actually found a use for this. You can actually apply presets where you can click on creative black and white or color. Let's just go with creative for the sake of the example. You can apply different presets that lightroom is already made and this is applying them on top of my effects. So typically if you're going to apply a preset, I would do it before you start changing everything. You've got more with black and white, different types of black and white, as well as color. You can also crop your photo by clicking on the crop button, which also has a rotation in it. If you take a photo that's a little off axis, you can straighten it back out or you can drag to only a certain part of your image. If you go all the way to the right, you can reset your image by clicking on all and it just goes back to the way that it was. When you're done, all you have to do is click on the box with the arrow up at the top right and you can share it. You can save it to your camera roll, save to a certain file or open it in other apps. Usually what I do is just save to camera roll and I do maximum available. If you like the settings that you've applied on a certain photo, just click on the three dots at the top right corner and you can copy these settings and it shows everything that you've changed. Just hit okay, to copy all. You can go to any other photo, click on the same three dots and paste those settings on a new photo. You can also back up your photos on the cloud by clicking on the cloud with the green dot. The button at the top middle is just an undo button. If you've taken a lot of photos in one day, you can go to the top left and click on rate and review and this allows you to swipe through your images and you can swipe up to flag it as good, swipe all the way down to flag it as a bad photo or neutral. You can rate it by clicking on the stars and swiping all the way up. You can go back and click on this top middle button, it looks like the tip of a pen. You can sort your photos based on photos, or if you've got videos, you can do just videos and you can pick on flagged, picked and rejected photos depending on how you rated them, but they'll all turn white if you click them all, so you have to uncheck. If I just want one picked, picked is the only one that's highlighted white. Lastly, you can click on keywords and this allows you to add keywords like, let's say mountains or trees or you could do, let's say dark shadows. Add keywords like this so that when you have a ton of photos uploaded in lightroom, you can go to the search bar and just type in what you want to find and it'll take you to all the images that you've tagged. That is it guys. Welcome to lightroom and start playing with some of your photos. 16. How to Create Presets in Lightroom: This is a new section that I put in and it's also one of my favorites because, it's a tool within Lightroom that I use all the time, especially with posting to Instagram. This is really helpful. This lesson is about creating presets and presets are awesome. They allow you to instantly edit all of your photos, to get a nice consistent look. I'll show you what I'm talking about. This is a photo of a rhino that I got in a recent trip to South African actually. I actually got this by putting my phone up to a pair of binoculars, believe it or not. Got really lucky. I'm going to edit this and then I'll show you how to create presets. Done. Let me show you. If you hold your finger down on the screen, that's what it used to look like. If you let go, that's the new photo. So cool. Now for creating the preset, this is awesome. If you go all the way to the right and this bottom menu, and you click on ''Presets.'' You can see I've already got two saved here actually. If I wanted to make a new one, what I would do is just go up to the three dots at the top and then just hit ''Create preset.'' What it'll do is ask me, what I want to include in the preset. Pretty much automatically includes everything that you need. I would actually leave tools, optics and geometry unchecked. All you really want is the light and color and effects and detail. I'm going to name this. Let's just say, well, let's call it South Africa preset. Let's say I wanted to put this preset on all of my South African photos, so that my entire album has a nice consistent look. Name it South African preset, and then hit the ''Checkmark'' at the top. Then boom, so it's just added in that little list and user presets. Normally when you go to your presets tab, this is what it would look like. If you click on that, you'll see you've got color, creative, black and white, curve green, all that stuff. These are Lightroom's normal preset. If you go to color, you can choose any one of the ones that Lightroom has. But user presets, which is the one that we just created, you can select any one of these and it'll apply it to your photo. That's an old one that I made before. I use these for my Instagram a lot. You can do that. Then South Africa preset it, will apply it. If we go and hit the ''Checkmark'' and let's go to another photo. This is another unedited version of that rhino, just a different angle. What I can do is go to presets, South African preset, and then boom, it is just automatically applied. These photos like pretty consistent sounds a little bright. What I'll do is I'll just go into light and I'll maybe bring that exposure down just a little bit. Something like that. Maybe bring the highlights down a little bit. Cool. Let's go back and I'll apply it to this one as well. It's just so quick and easy. Bam, done. Heck, let's apply it to this bird that I got to again through the binoculars. It's a fun trick. By the way, if you're ever out there and you want to photograph something far away and you happen to have a pair of binoculars. Presets, South Africa preset. It may depend on the photo, you might have to alter it here there. That's why I had Dale's main preset and then preset new I just tinker with them, I update them once in awhile. But really cool trick. Before we move on to the next section, I do want to show you one other cool trick. If you upgrade and I am not proposing a link or anything like that. I don't get any commission off of this. I'm just saying this is a really cool feature of Lightroom. If you go over to selective, and if you are not upgraded, you'll probably have a star next to selective. If you click on that, it'll ask you to upgrade. I don't know how much it is per month, but awesome features if you upgrade, you get these really cool tools. I'll hit ''Selective.'' What I can do is hit this plus sign and I'll grab a brush. Let's just change the size, something like that. I can just paint on the image. The red is to show me what I'm actually, painting on top of what I'm actually selecting. Let's just select the whole rhino, something like that with rough area. What you can do is go to any one of these effects down here and change just what is in the red zone. If I go to ''Color,'' I can maybe bring that rhino to be a little bit more gray so he's stands out. Normally he's blending in. He's something around here. Bam, all of a sudden you've got this awesome gray looking rhino, really stands out from the background and then you can also adjust some other light effects and clarity, things like that. I can make him a lot sharper. That looks even better than it was. Go ahead and make some of your own presets. You do not actually have to be upgraded to do the presets. Create some, I suggest creating three or four that are in the same realm of color. That way, you can apply different ones to different photos that have maybe one's too bright. You need a different preset for that. One's too dark, you might need another preset for that, but they all have generally the same color effects to them. That is actually what I do for my personal Instagram. I use an app called preview and it'll actually show you the photos that are in my Instagram. This is how I figure out what I want my Instagram to look like. It's got a consistent look. Then this is what it used to be, just a hodgepodge of random stuff and it didn't really flow. Now I've started to get this nice color flow going to it. That is all done using presets in Lightroom. Let's head on to the next lesson. 17. How to Make a Portrait Pop (Lightroom Tutorial): What's up guys. So, this lesson was requested by one of our students. I'm going to be doing a practical example about how to take any portrait photo and really make it pop in Lightroom. So, I'm going to be showing you how to go from this to this. There's a huge difference between these photos. The edited photo really pops, the colors pop, the light, everything about it. So, I'm going to jump right in and show you how to do this. First thing you want to do, is open up Lightroom, and just go down to the bottom right to the little plus with the picture and import your photo. All right. So, from here, the first thing that you want to do is click on light, and then go to your light tab, and I like to just boost the exposure a little bit, maybe about a 50, 51 close enough. Go down to your highlights and I like to bring those up, to, let's say, let's got pretty high, let's got to a 45. I don't really play with the contrast too much. Maybe, if I want to get more of a matte look, I'll bring it down but I'm just going to leave it at zero. Next, you want to bring your shadows up just a little bit with this one. If you go too much, it doesn't look too great, go too dark, and your shadows are just going to be too dark. So, I like to go to about, say 15. You can go down to your whites, and you can give a little bit more of a boost. Let's just say another 15, if you go too much, she gets blown out looking, but a little bit is good. It just gives you a little bit of an extra boost. I don't really touch the blacks too much either. So next, just go over to your color tab, and from here I don't ever really play with the temperature or the tint when it comes to people, because you go a little bit one way or a little bit the other way, and it does not look very good. So, just leave those at zero. But what I do bring up, is the vibrance. The vibrance, I bring up to about a 20. You don't want to go too much here either. She's starting to look really orange, and here just looks too old photo. So, just a little bit less as more to about let's say 20. Next is a fun little trick. If you go to the mix tab and you go to the green. So, the greens have a little bit of orange in them, they're pretty nice looking but in this particular photo with her pink sweater, I think would be really complimentary to drag the hue slider over a bit so you can make them a lot more green or you can make them a lot more orange. I really like the extra green but not too much. Let's go with about 25. Nice green color. Go down to your saturation and you can bring that up as well. I think making those greens pop is going to look really nice. So, let's say 45. So, you can go the other direction and desaturate them, and she's the only thing that has color, which is cool. It's a good style choice if that's what you want to do. But, I really like that greens, so I'm going to make them pop. Let's say 45. The luminance, I do want to bring them down because I want her to be my focus. So, if they're too bright it's not bad, a little bit darker is better. It makes her pop out just a little bit more. So, let's go pretty far on that one, let's go to about an 80. So, next hit the done button, and slide on over to effects, and from effects, this is one of my favorite ones, the clarity. You can bring that up. Just don't go too high, she starts to get way too contrast if you go too high and way too soft if you go to the other direction. So, just go a little bit. Let's say about a 25, that looks pretty nice. You can see you right there it's starting to look like a really good image, and we're going to add some vignette, draw some focus towards her. See, white does not look very good. Black does, but don't go too much. Let's go even somewhere about a 30. Let's go with a 30. So, that looks like a really nice image. So, this is the before and the after. She's way brighter, she pops a lot more, her hair looks nicer with that clarity filter on, overall just a much better image. From here, just go to the top right and export, go to save to camera roll, and go to maximum available. We want the highest pixels that we can post. All right, and you're all done. That is how to make any portrait photo pop out. 18. Final Words: Be Adventurous: Keep in mind that photography is more than just walking around and clicking a button, it's an adventure. So, the more adventurous you are, the better your photos are going to be, and to be adventurous you have to be courageous. Some of the best photos are from places that people don't normally go. If you're envisioning a photo, search for the best location to match the style that you have in mind. The best photographers shoot with purpose. They plan to go to specific locations with props, wardrobes, and angles in mind. So, stand up on that light post above a crowded street to get the perfect high angle. Take the long hike at sunrise to get the best lighting. Stand in the middle of the crosswalk and shoot straight down the middle of the street for the best vantage point. Lay down on the floor for the perfect low angle. Try some weird crap, have fun with it, and figure out what inspires you. 19. Final Words: Memorize the Rules and Break Them: The most important step of all, memorize the rules and break them. Everything I've discussed in this course, will help you to start taking and editing amazing photos all on your phone and should be committed to memory. Once you've memorized how each step affects the way a photo is perceived, your brain will start to do everything on autopilot while you're out shooting. Practice makes perfect is not just a cliche that your middle school basketball coach says, but the only thing that will take you from mediocrity to professionalism. The best thing you can do is to keep shoot, shoot, shoot. While you're between shooting, study your favorite photographers photos and look for all the elements that we've discussed. Once you start recognizing their patterns, you can begin to add your own style. How do you add your own style? Break the rules. Just as important as memorizing the rules, is getting comfortable with breaking them. Photography is a constantly evolving art form, because people are becoming bolder and more imaginative with their shots every day. Breaking the rules of photography once in a while, is necessary and essential to discovering new and attractive shots, as well as discovering your niche. Guys, that is a wrap for the iPhone photography course. If you would like to leave a rating and a review soon, I would be more than grateful. Every rating and written review helps my credibility grow and matters so much more than you think. If there is any reason that you did not have a five-star experience, please let me know why, so that I can update the course material. Thank you for signing up and I wish you the best of luck in your new photography adventures.