iPhone 11 and 11 Pro Photo Editing | Ben Nielsen | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

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Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

11 Lessons (51m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Project

    • 3. Photo Editing Interface

    • 4. Cropping Photos

    • 5. Light Adjustments

    • 6. Color Adjustments

    • 7. Detail Adjustments

    • 8. Portrait Mode Adjustments

    • 9. Live Photo Adjustments

    • 10. Editing Example: Waterfall

    • 11. More Editing Examples

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About This Class

In this class we will be going over all the photo editing features that come in the photos app on iPhone. We will learn:

  • Cropping
  • Light Adjustments
  • Color Adjustments
  • Detail Adjustments
  • Portrait Adjustments
  • Live Photo Adjustments

This class is a follow up on my course for iPhone 11 and 11 Pro Photography, but taking that course is not required for taking this course. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Ben Nielsen

Good design is the beginning of learning


I am passionate about good design and good teaching. I believe that anyone can learn simple design principles and tools that can help them create content that is both beautiful and functional.


Background: I am a media designer and librarian. My masters degree is in instructional design with an emphasis on informal learning.


Motto: Good design is the beginning of learning.

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1. Introduction: hi and welcome to this course on editing photos on the iPhone 11 and the iPhone 11 pro. This is a follow up course to my iPhone 11 and iPhone 11 pro photography course, where we learned how to take pictures using our iPhone, Elevens and iPhone. 11 pros. If you're taking that course, you remember that. We only use the stock camera app to take photos in that course, and this course follows along with that because we'll only be editing photos inside of the stock photos app that comes with your iPhone. Now this is a little different for me, as I almost always edit photos inside of a professional photo editing app. And it had actually been quite a while since I had used Apple's own photo editing app to edit any photos. So I was surprised at how many features they've actually packed into that photo app now. And the reason that we're only using the stock APS for these courses is that I want these courses specifically to be accessible to anybody who has an iPhone 11 or iPhone 11 pro. And so we're just going with the APS that air found on the iPhone you don't have to download or by anything else in order to complete these courses. But we will still be covering all of the important parts of editing photos, things like how to manipulate light and how to manipulate color in your photos. How to work with the details that your camera has captured in order to make your photos pop . And we'll also be covering the iPhone specific features, like how to edit photos that were taken in portrait mode. So let's go ahead and dive in and get started with iPhone 11 and iPhone 11. Pro photo editing in the next video, I'll talk to you about the project for this course. 2. Project: now you don't have to have taken the iPhone 11 and 11 Pro Photography course in order to take this course on editing photos, but I would recommend taking that other course so that you have some photos that you can edit for the project for this course, as you would expect, the project for this course is to edit some photos and then upload those photos that have been edited to skill share and tell us what kinds of edits that you made to them. I would like you to edit at least five photos and upload the before photos and the after photos so that we can see the kind of changes that you made when you edited them inside of the app. And because some of the skills are specific to portrait photos, please make sure that at least one of your five photos is a picture taken in portrait mode on the iPhone. And remember, you learn better when you actually do the things that you are learning in the class. And so please take the time to actually complete the project for this course, and you also learn better when you receive feedback from others So when you upload your course project, you're able to receive feedback from me and from other students in the course. So please do take the time to do that. In the next video, we're going to go have an introduction to the photo editing part of the photos Apple. 3. Photo Editing Interface: thing, this video, I'm going to be showing you just a little bit of how to get into the editing interface and the way the editing interface works. We won't be going into the specific tools in this video. We'll be doing those in the next videos. But this is just to show you how to get there. So right now I'm in the photos app and I am inside of an album here and the album that I have. It's favorites just cause I favorited thes six photos so that we can work on them as we go along. This 1st 1 will probably look familiar to you. It is of the waterfall that I took a picture of last time in the course on iPhone 11 photography. So once you've clicked into a photo, if you want to edit it, you just actually hit the edit button in the top, right? And then it's gonna load up into Theo editor. And the way that the interface works is you have things along the top and you have things along the bottom, and there's kind of three areas of the bottom. The 1st 1 is the different tools within a mode so you can see there's like auto exposure, brilliance those air, different tools within the mode. And then there's a well down here. If you're in a mode that uses the wheel, then you can control that by moving along the wheel and then along the very bottom. You have the different areas of the app, and also you're done and cancel. Cancel. We'll get rid of all your edits. Done will save your edits permanently to the photo, and then you have different modes, and these will change depending on what photo you have. So right now we're in the adjustments mode, and you can tell that because it says a just at the very top of the screen so that you select the mode at the bottom, but it tells it at the top. I know that's a little bit weird, and I'm not quite sure why they made that choice, but that's what it is. So, for example, we could switch over to filters, and it filters at the top of changes. But we had to click down in the bottom to change it, and then along the top over there, you also have a little menu, three dot menu, And that's where you can go into other APS to edit more so you can see here I can go into dark room. I do have a whole course on editing in dark room, and you can also choose Mark up here. We're not really going talk about Mark up in this course because it's not so much editing, but you can like right on the photo and stuff like that, and that's really the basics of it. You can flip this and make it go horizontal, but I'm going to be filming most of this course and vertical orientation because I'm assuming that most people are editing in the vertical orientation. In the next video, we'll actually get into the moat and we'll start talking about the crop module here. 4. Cropping Photos: a light. This video is all about the crop module. So I'm again here on this photo of the waterfall that we took in the last course, and I'm gonna go ahead and hit edit. And now that I'm here will go to the crop module, which is the squares and the arrows on the far bottom. Right? I'm going tapped that. So that's showing you that this is a crop and rotation module. And so there are a number of different settings that we can deal with here. We're just going to start and learn this from the top here. So at the very top left in that menu bar, we have the flip options. So that will flip on the vertical axis so you can see that that's now a mirror image back to the way it was before on. Then we have this little rotate button and that will rotate 90 degrees. Okay, the button on the right will actually let us change our cropping aspect ratio. So right now we have a free crop. If we go down and we grab a handle in one of these corners, then we can drag anyway that we want and we can change the aspect ratio where we want. But if we tap on the first button on the right, this will give us the option to change our aspect ratio. So first we have original, and that means we will always keep the same aspect ratio. So no matter how I dragged this now, it will keep the same aspect ratio that this was taken at, which looks like it was taken out of four by three. Freeform was what we were on before square. A lot of people like this for Instagram, So no matter how you crop it now, it will always be a square. And if at any point you don't like what you've got, you can always hit, reset at the top of the screen, we have a 16 by nine aspect ratio, just great if you're going, put this in film and you can always choose where this check mark is kind of in the middle of the screen. You can choose if that's going to be 16 by nine Critical, which is nine by 16 or horizontal, which is 16. By night. You can go up and you can drag the picture around inside of that frame that it's made for you. And there's a 10 by eight seven by five, or by three five by three and three by two. You'll notice they don't have a four by five on here, which is the max size that you can use an instagram and still use up the whole space. So not quite sure why they don't have that one, but you can always do a free form to you. Try and get as close to that as possible. They don't let you set your own aspect ratio, so you have to choose from the presets or freeform. So those are the only options. Well, let's go back to Original so we can see some of the other aspects of the crop tool. Why will reset this photo and then we'll tap on the aspect ratios to get out of that mode. And remember, we have the three dot menu here, which will let us go into other options and then down at the bottom. We have our different tools in here, so first we have our straightening tool, and so as we drag this, it will actually rotate it. But this is for more subtle adjustments than the full 90 degree rotation that we saw earlier and so that will cause different crops. Depending on how we rotate it, you can always hit reset to get back. So for this picture, I really have too much down at the bottom here. But before I cropped that out, I'm not sure this needs to be straightened, but it's perspective needs to be adjusted. Often when we shoot something with the super wide angle, Lens will need to make some small perspective adjustments to it to try and make it look not so wide. If we swipe to the left here, we'll get to the vertical adjuster, and so this will allow us to adjust the way the vertical aspect of the picture looks, and it causes things to crop so you can see it's got the frame there of the original setting size, and as we adjust this, it's straining it out some. But it's going crop off some of those mountains when you leave it for a second, then it will make the crop actually happen. Likewise, there's a horizontal adjuster, so you can change the way that that perspective looks I don't think we need to change that one, though. So now let's go back over to the straighten. Let's just see if we need to make any straightening adjustments to this. Since there aren't any like horizon lines or man made structures in this, it's hard to tell if it's exactly straight or not. There's nothing to really guide us on that. You always want to crop for aesthetics, right? And so I'm just going to crop this in to get rid of some of this in the bottom. We don't need all of that sandy nous and then I'm going to You dragged the photo down a little bit. We bring in a little bit of the sky there, and you do see that grid when you were cropping, and that shows you the rules of third. So let's say we wanted our waterfall to be on one of our thirds here for visual interest. You can bring that in Excel Entrance. Set this to regular aspect ratio like a four by three, just to make sure it's good there, and then when I'm ready and done, I can go ahead and I can hit done on this one. Now. A nice thing is, even after we've saved our edit, we can actually get back in and we can hit the edit button and we can get this river button in the bottom right. But we also get the ability to re crop our photo. The information from our photo is actually still there, saved on our phone, and we can re crop re straighten whatever we need to do, so it's not permanent as long as it's still on the phone. So go ahead and crop. Want at least one of your photos, become familiar with the crop tools and be aware that as Ukrop things, you are losing pixels. So if we zoom in here, you can see this is getting more pixelated. It's not really more pixelated, is just We have less pixels that were displaying in the same amount of space. So go ahead and make some crop adjustments. See what you can do with least one of your photos for cropping. And in the next video, we'll go ahead and we'll be talking about the light adjustments 5. Light Adjustments: All right, let's go ahead and continue editing our photo here. Now we're going to be working in the adjust module, but right now we're only going to really deal with delight adjustments. And so the adjustments module is this little dial wheel down at the bottom of the screen. It's the second from the left on this photo that can change depending on what kind of a photo you're doing. This one also has the life mode on the far left, You know, some kind jumping around between these modules here because I'm not so much concerned about going in the order that they have them. I'm more concerned about going in the order that I think is best for editing. So I think that you want to start with cropping so that you know where you're getting your photo to. And then I think that dealing with light is the next thing that you want to dio. So we're here in the adjustments. There are seven different tools within this module that deal with the light. And so lighting is super important in photography because the light determines what the viewer will actually see. And so you want to make sure that you get the lighting. Right now, you can always go ahead and you can hit this magic wand, which you can see is labeled as auto right there, and you just tap that and it will try and make all of the adjustments. And this is everything, not just the lighting. The phone is just going. Look at that picture and try and make the best adjustments it can. You'll have varying degrees of success with this. It's probably always worth hitting it just to see what the phone doesn't. Maybe it will do things that you like. And even after you hit auto, you can still go in and make your own adjustments later. I'm going to turn that off for now so that we can go ahead and start looking at light controls individually. So the first light control here, the plus minus, is exposure. So this is the overall brightness of all of the pixels in your image and exposure. You want to try and get this right when you're shooting right, but sometimes you don't, or sometimes it's just not captured the way that you want and so you can make exposure adjustments here on all these tools. I'm going to show you the extreme so that you can see what's doing. But of course you would never actually do the extreme in a real photo editing situation. But just you can see if I go all the way up, everything becomes very bright. Anything that was white gets blown out. That's what we call it when the white pixels are completely white. Now, if I go all the way to the left, you can see everything becomes very, very dark and the shadows become very deep. Let's go back to the middle. You can always see where the middle is because you have that little white dot above your wheel. So that's exposure. Exposure is strong tool. I would only use the exposure dial if you know that you didn't get the exposure right when you shot it and you have to make some adjustment. It's a powerful dial, but it's also because it's so powerful. It's not very subtle, and a lot of times we want to go for things that are more subtle. Let's move on. This next one is called Brilliance. Now Brilliance is actually a combo slider that Apple has made. So you don't see brilliance and a lot of other photo editing APS, and this is actually going to be adjusting the shadows and the highlights and the contrast all at once. And so this could be really useful, because that's something you often have to do yourself so you can see how this works. If I start pulling it down, you can see shadows air coming up. Highlights are going down and things are becoming more contrast. E. If I go all the way to write, it looks like a very fake look. Now let's go to the left. Shadows are becoming darker, highlights are becoming brighter, and we're losing the contrast in the midterms. So brilliant it's a good slider to use. The next one is where we get into the more manual control, right? This is the highlights. So the highlight slider, which is found in many photo editing APS it will allow you to bring down the brightest parts of your image and make them darker. So if you watch the sky as I slide, sky becomes darker and more blue as I go to the left, so you often won't do this. If you have blown out clouds because the clouds will often be super white and you want to bring those highlights down now the iPhone does not shoot in raw by default, so you need a special app if you're shooting raw. So none of these photos that the iPhone just took in the photos app were shot in raw and in raw photos. You can actually recover a lot, Maurin the highlights in the shadows, so there's only so much that you can do here. You can see if I go to the right here. It's just going to blow this guy out. All right, let's look at our shadows. Shadows is the opposite of highlights, so it deals with the darkest parts of the image. And so if we go to the left, it's going to raise up our shadows by making them lighter and whiter. So you can see there aren't really any shadowy, dark parts of the image left once I get all the way to 100. Now, of course, if I go to the left, all the shadows air going become darker and deeper. I don't adjust shadows as much as I just highlights. I will almost always adjust the highlights in a photo, but I only adjust the shadows. If things were particularly dark, let's move on. To contrast. Contrast is the difference between the light and the dark areas of the photo. So as we go the right, we're adding difference to the light in the dark areas. And so, if you've ever heard somebody say that photo was really contrast, E looks kind of like this, right? There are areas of brightness, and there are areas of darkness, but there's not a line between. You never want to go all the way on that. But often a little contrast does need to be added to these iPhone photos just because they're kind of soft. Now, if you go to the left, it will remove contrast, which will make everything softer and more of all the same. Rights of the lights are coming down, the darks air coming up, and everything's basically turning into a mushy gray. Let's contrast, I always like to add a little bit of contrast to these photos, then the next one that we have is brightness. Brightness is a lot like exposure, except that it will only affect the mid tones of the image. So instead of affecting everything in the image, it just affects the midterms. So it's a much more subtle way to make your photo lighter or darker. Let's go ahead and go to the right. This will make it photo brighter to go all the way. Of course, it's too bright, and if we go to the left, you can see photos getting darker and darker until it's almost all gone. So a lot of times you will want to just make a photo a little bit brighter so that it pops a little bit more. And I would recommend doing that with this brightness slider, as opposed to the exposure slider just for subtlety. All right, the last of the light editing tools is the black point. Black Point will change how many of the dark pixels in the photo are actually black. So as we drag it to the left, there's actually less. Unless that's black. And as we drag it to the right, there's more and more. That's black, and I know that's a little bit counterintuitive. Kind of runs the opposite way of most of the other sliders But it's just because this is dealing specifically with black. Now, in a lot of photo editing applications, you'll have what's called a hist a gram, where you can see where all the lights and darks our across your photo and you'll use the Black point control to trying even those out and get things set to where they would naturally be. We don't have a history Graham in here, so we just have to kind of eyeball it. Not quite sure why Apple hasn't yet given us a history ram. Hopefully, they will in the future, but we just kind of eyeball where we think the black should be at. And I don't know why. There isn't a white point in this application. There is often a white point in other editing applications, so I don't know why there's not a whites option here. But there isn't. Apparently, Apple thinks we just need to be able to adjust the blacks so those air all of the different light adjustments that you can do inside of the regular photos app on your iPhone. And remember, with the light adjustments, the idea is to get the photo back to looking balance similar to the way that you perceived it when you took the photo, or if you're going for a particular feel that you want to evoke. That may not have been the feel that you had when you were there. You can also use the light adjustments to get you to that point. Now, in order to get the lighting right in a photo, you're going to need to touch multiple light controls. It's very seldom that you only need to adjust one of thes because adjusting one will affect the others. And so you have to just multiple of them and miss kind of massage until you get the look that you want. For example, when we drop our highlights down and we bring our shadows up, we actually lose contrast right, because we're making the brighter part starter and the darker parts lighter. So then we often want to go back and add contrast in because we've taken contrast away. So we'll use, um, contrast to kind of bring that back in and make the photo look balanced again. And so there's a back and forth between all of these different tools. They're going to affect each other Of course, the brilliance Slider does a lot of that together. It basically does what we just did, but in one slider, and so you just touch the different tools, see what they're doing and try and get that photo where you want it to be. Now you can go for certain looks like this. Some people, for example, really like kind of a faded look to try and make their photos look like film. Way to get that is to go to the black points lighter and then to slide that to the left so that there's less black pixels in your image, and that gives it kind of that faded. Look, it's not stupor easy to do in this application, because you don't have a curves adjustment, but it's at least a little bit possible to dio. So go ahead and play around with light controls on a photo and see if you can get it to evoke the mood that you want or to look the way that you remembered it when you took the photo mess around with the light in your photos. And then in the next video, we'll go ahead and we'll talk about the color controls 6. Color Adjustments: I think for this next video we're going to be dealing with the color adjustments in the photos up, and I've switched photos here just so we have something that has a little bit more color in it. That waterfall photo doesn't have a whole lot of color in. It's mostly grays, blacks and whites. And so I've switched to this fortunate photo here, and we're going to look at the colors now. The black point. It kind of straddles the line between light and color, right, and they all affect each other. But right after that we get into the rial color controls, and the 1st 1 is saturation. Saturation is just going to determine how much each pixel is saturated in the hue that it is. So as we drag it to the right, everything becomes much more saturated closer to do straight. Hugh that it's coming from this real saturated look. It was popular for a while, but you can see that it looks really fake when it's too much, and so you want to be careful with saturation. If you go to the left. This is how you get black and white. You can just take all the saturation way, and it will be black and white. Or you can kind of give it a a little bit of a faded look. Their combined that, of course, with the black point, you could get a real kind of faded feel. They're set that back. The next style is vibrance. Vibrance is like saturation, except it's like brightness is to exposure, so it only really applies to the mid tone colors in the photo. And so, as you dragged that up, you can see that it's going up in a much more subtle pace. Then the saturation wasn't even. Once we get to 100 we're not getting close to where saturation was when we put it up 200. Similarly, you can drag that to the left and you'll lose a lot of color. You'll get pretty faded look, but you won't lose all of your color by going to the left there because it's really just affecting the mid tones. So I lots of times like to use vibrance instead of saturation to control this just so that we get that subtler feel so that it looks more natural. All right, I'm actually going pop out of this photo and bring up another one to talk about the next control, which is once. All right. So I have this photo particularly in here to talk about warmth, because warmth is the temperature control for how warm the photo was when you shot it. And so that ranges from blue two yellow and so you can see this photo is very blue because there was blue lighting and it was very cold when it was shot. And so everything is very blue cast. Now, if I drag this to the right, it's going warm. The photo up. Which means it's going to add yellow to the blue pixels. Bryce, you mentioned this earlier, but to see what your photo look like before just tap on the photo itself. Did you get the before? Then you get the after so you can see a super blue, and it's not like it's not blue now, but it is much less blue because there's been yellow pixels added in to where the blue is at. Conversely, if we dragged a little left, everything will become a lot more blue. So even though it was very blue before and now it's super blue. And so if something has a particular caste like this, it might be fine. It was cold that night, right? And so a blue cast might be fine here. But if you're getting a blue cast and you don't want it, then you want to adjust the warmth, or if you're getting a yellow casting, you don't want it, then you want to make that photo cooler. All right, then I'm going to pull up another photo here to show you the tent. All right, so the next control is tint and this photo show on the same night. But it's been shot with pink lights all around them, and tint is a lot like temperature in that it's a balance between two colors. In this case, it's a balance between magenta and green, and so if something has a green cast or a pink cast to it, we can adjust it in the opposite direction. So this one obviously has a pink cast. So if we drag it to the left, actually going to adding green to the photo to take away that pink. So as you adding green pink disappears because they're opposites and so if we tap on that very pink, not nearly so pink now, of course, if it had a green cast to it, we would want to drag it to the right to bring in more pink. In other programs, they're called white balance controls, and so you can just the warmth or the tent. So especially be aware of photos that look a little bit greenish because that can really make your subjects look kind of sickly. And that can happen a lot when you're shooting under fluorescent lights or something like that. And so you might want to just bring in a little bit of magenta just to make your people look a little bit healthier again. But be careful with that, because if you push it too far, then the people will start to look purple, and then they don't look well, either. So you want to use lost subtlety in the adjustments for the tint, especially all right, that is it for the color controls. There are four of them. Saturation, vibrance, warmth and tent. And so go ahead and play around with the color in your photo's a little bit. And then in the next video, we'll go ahead and we'll start talking about the detail adjustments 7. Detail Adjustments: away, right? We've switched photos here again. Now we're on a photo of the yellow van, and we are now one to be talking about the detail adjustments. So the next kind of set here within the adjust module is the detail adjustments, and the 1st 1 here is sharpness. Now it's important to point out that you can't actually make the photo sharper, right? If the photo was out of focus when it was taken, you are not going to be able to make it sharper now. There's a lot of things the iPhone does computational Lee when you take the photo to try and get you the sharpest, most detailed image it can. But here in the post production that we really can't do anything to make, something that was out of focus in focus. And you can see that we've got some Boca in this photo, right? And of course, that's intentional. We want it, though. This wasn't a portrait mode photo just because of focal distance, the back ground is all out of focus while the van is in focus. But if the van were out of focus, we couldn't make it come into focus. Using a sharpness control. What sharpness does is it just increases contrast along the edges of the photo. And so any place that there are light and dark, it's going to make them lighter and darker so that it can increase the contrast between them. That will give the appearance of some sharpening. But you can see let's say we scroll all the way to the right. With this sharpness, it can start to look fake pretty fast. And so, if we tap on the photo, you can see what it looked like before and what it looks like now. And the biggest place you can see this is in the Volkswagen logo, just as that you can see it's making the darker parts starker and the brighter part brighter. Especially if you do this too much on like humans, it can start to look really fake, so you want to be careful adjusting sharpness too much. Now, definition is another one of those tools that's meant to be a little bit subtler, and so it actually is going to add the contrast and sharpening in just to the mid tones to similar to how vibrance did that for color and how brightness did that for exposure. Then we have noise reduction. I'm going to switch photos here again so that you can see how this one works on something that's a little bit noisier. This photo, because it was taken in low light, is pretty noisy. You can see there's a lot of noise in the face in the background, a lot of noise here. And so, as we scroll up in noise reduction is going. Try to eliminate that. Let's see how it's doing here so you can see if I tap it. You see before and after, and it's trying to eliminate noise by softening things out. So noises just where the camera has cut. You kind of make something up because it shooting at a very high I S O. And so it's just going try and smooth that out by getting rid of those pixels that aren't right. So noise will often look like purple and green pixels that are just kind of randomly there . And so it smooths those away by using the colors around it. But you can see looks really mushy. Will you push it too far? So even when we're zoomed out Let's do that before in the after. You can really see it in the sign behind them that it's getting mushy, so you want to use this sparingly. Of course, it's best if you can shoot non noisy photos to begin with that are pretty clear, but that's not always possible. So just this, you know, and try and get a balance between looking too mushy and looking too noisy. All right, The next thing is Vignette. Let's go ahead and let's switch to a different Photo. Jr is the last of the controls in the adjust module, and what a vignette does you probably have seen this before is it's going to add darkness or lightness to the edges of the photo that we scrolled on the right. It's actually gonna add darkness, which is the opposite of the way it works in a lot of other editing programs, so right, we'll add darkness to the edges of the photo. You can see that best if I tap on it. You see the before and then the after, whereas if I go to the left, it will actually add lightness to the edges of that photo tablet. You see the before and the after. And the reason you might want to do this is Teoh kind of create a different feel, but also to draw the attention of the viewer into the middle of the photo. So if you have a subject in the middle you want, draw their attention to it you want darken up those edges so that they aren't distracted by whatever is going on off to the edges guy, see, See everything there and then you really get drawn in as you have that vigna on there. So vignettes are very popular in, like portrait photography, but you can use them anywhere to try and dry your viewer into the center of that photo. Okay, that is it for all of the adjustments. And don't worry, will be taking a look at editing complete photos later on in the course. So don't worry that we haven't been leaving any of thes adjustments on or anything will be looking at an example of all of these photos through a complete editing process later on in the course. So go ahead and make some detail adjustments into your photos. See how that's working with your pictures and then next video, we're going talk specifically about the adjustments that happened to portrait photos like this one 8. Portrait Mode Adjustments: Alright. So one of the best things about shooting on one of these newer iPhones after they've got the dual lenses or even the iPhone 10 are which is able to do this just computational e is that you get this portrait mode so you get that nice Boca or that blurriness in the background there. But your subject is in focus, and that makes your photos look a lot better, a lot more professional, especially when it works well, and it's certainly gotten better in the past several years. Basically, it's using the two cameras on your phone or the computer inside of the phone to try and figure out where the subject should be and what should be blurry. And what should be in focus and along with shooting in portrait mode, comes from different things that you can adjust. First of all, whether it's in portrait or not can be adjusted. So at the very top, you see where it says portrait and that's yellow. That means portrait is on, but you can actually turn that off. If you tap it. You can see everything comes back into focus, and so it's just using the one picture where everything was in focus for that. Tap it. It comes back on and you have the blurry Boca background again. So if you ever like Oh, that photo didn't work at all. In portrait mode, it's not lost. You can get back to a completely in focus picture again, which is pretty nice now. We're currently were on the lighting mode, So if you look in the top left corner, there's this little hexagon shape that is different lighting moats. And you can change these to try and mimic the way different lights might look. I don't adjust these very often. I don't find them to be all that useful, but you might find them to be useful. So there's normal, which is what we're on right now. Just the natural light that was their next. When you get to is studio and you can adjust how much or how little there is, just like we did with the other things. The wheel there kind of like filters, and you can tap the photo to see it before and an after. Then there's contour light. All of these have different effects. Stage light tries to make it look like they're on a stage. So everything that was blurry is just completely blacked out. Stage light. Mono is gonna be that, but black and white and high key mono is gonna be that. But everything is going to be blown out instead of black. So these can all be adjusted, give you different, feels none of them are particularly my favorites, so I don't normally use them. But like I said, you might find them useful. The other thing that you can adjust is your f stop. So next to that lighting control, the hexagon is a little oval with F in it. And that tells you the f stop that you took it at. This is not the rial f stop that it got taken out. But this is the F stop that portrait mode is trying to mimic because you can't actually adjust the aperture on your iPhone. There isn't a movable aperture like there is in a regular like DSLR camera, and so it's just trying mimic what an F 4.5 would look like. And you don't have to worry a lot about what that means. I understand that the numbers can be really confusing on cameras, but basically you just need to know that the lower the number, the more blurry the background is going to be. So if we tap on that oval, then we'll get into our depth. Control were at a 4.5 right now, and if we scroll to the left, things will get more blurry as we can go down to 1.4, you can see even parts of her are starting to become blurry, and that's just not looking very good at all that we careful about doing too much there. Then, if we scroll to the right, will eventually get back to being mostly in focus, just like we were when we turn portrait off. So that's F 16 so you can adjust these different portions. I know in the last course about taking photos with your iPhone, we talked about how you could adjust your F stop while you were shooting. But you don't really have to worry too much about that because you can adjust it later here while you're editing. So if you've noticing that things just aren't quite coming in right, you might want to adjust up a little to bring some other things into focus. Or if your book is just not strong enough, you can adjust down to give yourself more blur. But again, I quit everything. Subtlety is really the key here, so those were the portrait controls. Those look like a little cube and down in the bottom left if you have them, and these will only appear on things that were taken in portrait mode. So go ahead and adjust some of your portrait photos. See what it's like if you turn portrait mode off on a photo, see what it's like if you adjust the lighting, see what it's like if you adjust the F stop or the focus on in that in the next video, we'll talk about the special controls for life. 9. Live Photo Adjustments: Oh, okay, so here we are to talk about life photos, and we're here on this picture of the Millennium Falcon at Disneyland's Galaxy's Edge. And my photos are not something that we've talked a lot about either in this course or in the last course, basically their photos that are really just little video snippets. And if you hold down on them, you can actually place when you kind of in the APP, you'll see them play a little bit, and if you hold down on them, you can play through it. So it just takes about a three second clip and makes that a photo that can move. So this was kind of is like the Harry Potter feature early on when this was first introduced. And it's really nice because it allows you to capture a bunch of photos in a row that can be played as a video but also that you can address later. And so if a photo was taken in life mode, you get a special control where the portrait mode was in the last one. You can now see there's little three circles and one of them is a dotted ring and so if we tap on that, this is where we get the life photo mode now. First off, you have the control. Teoh either turn live mode, on or off. So if you turn it off and there is no more life mode on that and you can't play it through , you turn that on. So that's just like turning portrait mode on and off. Except in this case, it's life mode, and you can also turn sound off. So if you don't want there to be any sound on that, you can just hit this speaker icon and that will great that out. Put a slash through in mute that so that even if you play through the life video, you won't have any sound with. But the really great thing about life photos is that you can select what's called the key frame so you can choose a frame from the entire video to be the main picture for, and you do that on the little film strip down at the bottom. So as you can see when I shot this picture of the Millennium Falcon because I was shooting with the super wide angle, my finger is actually in the top right corner. I could eliminate that through cropping, but then I might lose some of the spaceship. And if I watched through this video, I can see that there's a point where my fingers not there. And so I just want to find that point in this film strip. So I just dragged the frame. I do when these little Jet I Children are in the air. And then if I hit Maki photo that is now the key photo can hit done. And that will now be the picture that appears to still play through everything. But I no longer have the finger in there in my regular, and so that is a great way to get it. And I, like especially, like to If I'm not using portrait mode, I like to have life. Oh, tomorrow turned on when I'm taking pictures of like my daughter or anything else that moves around a lot because you might not get the picture because they might be moving. But maybe it did capture it in the life for remote. And so I like to be able to go in and select that key photo to get the picture that I want from that little clip in the next video, we're actually going, Go ahead and we're going to just go in and we're gonna edit these photos for real. So you're just going to watch me go through, make adjustments to each of these photos to try and get them to look as best as they possibly can. Often, we won't be able to get photos to look perfect. That's normal. But we want to make them look as good as we can. And so in the next video, that's what I'm going to be, Oh! 10. Editing Example: Waterfall: Oh, OK, In this video, I'm going to be editing the photos that we have been looking at this whole time. So I'm going to actually be making the permanent and final adjustments to these photos. And we're just going to start here with the waterfall photo that we've been looking at for a while and that we took in the last course. So I'm just gonna go ahead and start editing and I'm always start just like we did with the crop tool. So we've already seen a lot of cropping with this one, so I'm not going to spend a lot of time doing that here. But I am going to, you know, adjust the perspective because it was taken in wide. Try and fix that a little bit here. Then I'm gonna keep the original aspect ratio. Using that rule of thirds, I'm gonna place the waterfall right there on those thirds lines. I like the way that looks. So I think I'm done with cropping on this one, and we're going to go ahead and move on to our adjustments. Now, this is a life photo, so we could make a change to the scene, But I don't see any reason to do that because it looks like it doesn't change much throughout the scene. That will go into the adjustments now, and it's always useful to try hitting Auto first just to see what it does. And remember, you can tap the screen at any time to see the original, and then it will come back and show you what your adjustments have made, not loving the adjustments it's made. So I'm going go ahead and turn off auto. First thing that I'm going to go adjust is my brightness. I just want to raise my brightness lightly. At this point, I wouldn't try my brilliance lighter and see what that does for me. Can we give it a little bit of brilliance there? And because I've done brilliance, I don't think I needed to touch highlight shadows or contrast at this point. See what blacks doing for me. A little black point, We go try vibrance. This picture was pretty cool. I'm going to see what it looks like warmed up just a little bit of warmth. I might see what happens if we mess with the tent a little bit. We had a slight bit of magenta there. Zoom in to see if I need to adjust the details. Oh, sharpness. I don't think noise reductions really do anything. And then let's see if we want to give it a little bit of a vignette here. Okay, Tap on it to see what it looked like before What looks like now. So I think that's looking a lot better. The crop helps out a lot in actually being able to see the subject of the photo. And I'm liking how the colors are turning out here. So I think we're going. Go ahead and call that one goods it done on that one. And so now you kind of know what my processes. I'm going to show you how I edit the other photos, but I'm not going to talk through it because it could get really boring just hearing me talk about the same things over and over again. So I'm going to do those in sped up mode. But you can watch them and get ideas for adding your own photos and then please remember to once you've edited your photos to upload them to the class project so that we can all see them and see what we're all learning and be able to give each other feedback on our projects. Thanks so much for watching this course. And if you haven't already and you are interested in the course on iPhone photography, please take a look at that. I also have a course on more advanced editing tools in dark room that you might also want to check out. 11. More Editing Examples: way, way, - way .