You Can Crochet Too!: How to Crochet a Ribbed Ripple Afghan | Tara Sensenbaugh | Skillshare

You Can Crochet Too!: How to Crochet a Ribbed Ripple Afghan

Tara Sensenbaugh, Fiber Artist

You Can Crochet Too!: How to Crochet a Ribbed Ripple Afghan

Tara Sensenbaugh, Fiber Artist

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12 Lessons (38m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Materials

    • 3. Pattern

    • 4. Yarn and Hook

    • 5. Chain Stitch

    • 6. Additional Tips on Chain Stitch

    • 7. Pattern Row 1

    • 8. Pattern Row 2-3

    • 9. Tips on Changing Color

    • 10. Hiding Yarn Tails

    • 11. Gauge

    • 12. Conclusion

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About This Class

Have you ever wanted to learn to Crochet? Now you can! You will learn the basics of Crochet while making a lovely ribbed ripple afghan. All you need is a hook, a few skeins of yarn, and your determination. With 4 sizes available, you can provide a lovely gift for anyone you want. No prior knowledge or experience is necessary, but even veterans to Crochet will have a blast with this pattern. Jump right in today!


Meet Your Teacher

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Tara Sensenbaugh

Fiber Artist


I've been doing fiber arts since I was 15 years old. Now, 17 years later I've been getting into teaching. I had a summer class that went really well, and I practiced making videos for them. I really love fiber arts, and I have been working to engage the interest of others so that they to can reap the benefits of meditative crafts like crochet and knitting. 

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1. Introduction: welcome to you Can Cochet to I'm your teacher terrorist sense in I'll be teaching you how to make this rib Ribble Afghan. Today I designed this cost with beginners in mind. But veterans, this is a great pattern. And you're gonna have lots of fun too. For this class, we will have two assignments. Do. The first assignment will be our swatch. Our gauge Swatch is intended to teach us this bitch and also to give us a gauge to go by so we can choose what size we want Our final blanket to be our second assignment will be the actual finish blanket. When you submit your assignments, please start by submitting to swatch for your blanket. And then later on, after you finished your blanket, please submit pictures of that as well. Let's begin 2. Materials: All right, let's talk materials. First thing you're going to want is a skein of yarn. What you're gonna want to look for is 100% acrylic and worsted weight. In the symbols you can look for size for medium. You're gonna need a pair of scissors. And lastly, a hook for this project, we're going to be using a five millimeter US size H eight. The last bit you're going to need is a pattern. So please go to the resource is and download a link to the pattern and print that out. Or put that on a smartphone somewhere where you can have easy access to it at all times. I'll be showing you how to read the pattern in the next video. 3. Pattern: Okay, It's time to talk pattern. I just want to give you a little preview on what the pattern looks like so that you could read through it after you know what all these terms mean. We have our materials here in our glossary of terms. I gave you instructions on starting the actual Swatch and the Afghan. We're going to be working in multiples of 14 because that's our pattern. Repeat and then we add three more stitches for the starting chain. You read your directions just like a normal paragraph until you get to the stars. The stars symbols mean that this is our pattern. Repeat, and we're supposed to repeat whatever's in between these two stars as many times as it takes until we get to the end of the road. Then we do one last instruction for the last space, and we turn our work. It's pretty straightforward. It's a simple pattern, but it's gonna look like just a bunch of jumbled words until you've done the rest of the videos. So let's go on to those videos so that you know, when any all of this means 4. Yarn and Hook: All right, let's get started. Take your skin and find your instructions for pulling the yarn tales free. It tells us that to start, we need to first pull from the right to get this and free from inside the scheme. There it is. And then we took that back in. Next, we slowly pull from the left and continue working with that tail. So we're gonna go to the left, find the tail and pull it free. Give yourself some yarn to work with next to grip your hook. I'm going to show you the knife method to do this, you put your thumb of the thumb grip and you wrap the rest of your hand around the hook. You want to keep your work on the shaft at all times. The tapered end is only used for going into the work and making it easier to bring it back up on the shift. 5. Chain Stitch: The first thing we're going to learn is how to do a slip knot. Bring the tail toward you, keeping the working yarn in the back, using two fingers on your left hand, grab the tail and wrap the working yarn around the two fingers from front to back twice. Turn and push you working yard through the loop you just made. Grab that working yard and let go of your fingers, pulling on the tail to tighten the knot. The slipknot is also called ingestible. Not this allows us to make a loop that goes onto our hook and then tightening it. The next thing you want to do is learn how to hold your working yard, wrap it around your pinkie finger and then around your index finger from front to back. Keep your fingers separated, allowing the yarn to move through them. If you close your fingers off, your guard will get stuck and you won't be able to progress once again from front to back. Wrap your yarn around your pinky and then around your index finger. The amount of space between your hook and your index finger should be somewhere between 1.5 to 2 inches to crow. Shea, use your thumb and your middle finger to grab the tail end and the not of your work. First, we're going to make a chain stitch. This is the most basic of all Croce Stitches. Yarn over from back to front and pull through the loop that's on your hook. Bring your work back to the middle of the shaft and that completes the chain stitch. You can move up your thumb and your middle finger to grab the change. Did you dress? Mate? Doesn't make it easier to make the next chain stitch. Once again, yarn over from front to back and pull through the loop that's on your hook, bringing back to the middle of the shaft. Move up your fingers, yarn over and pull through the single loop that's on your hook, bringing the work back to the middle of the chef. You're going to do this until you have 31 chain stitches to count them. Turn your chain towards use of that, you see the V's. Each V is one stitch. 123 I've got three stitches made, and I'm gonna work on getting the other 31 done. I'll see you then 6. Additional Tips on Chain Stitch: When I first started Kirsch 81 of the worst parts was working back into the chain I'd made because some of the stitches really tiny and summer super huge. The evenness of your stitches is called tension, and in order to get that down, I've got a few tips I think should help. If your stitches rending up too tight, you're probably holding everything a little too hard. When you grip your hook, just grip it softly, and when you hold the yarn in your left hand, just relax your hand. If you're using your hook to do all the work, including the yarn over and pulling the loop through, you'll be able to relax the rest of your hands a lot easier. Make sure that your work stays on this shaft here because that will prevent your chain stitch from closing up when you pull the group through. For example, if you yank on your left hand the working yard while you're trying to pull this through, it closes up and makes it almost impossible to get your hook back through. If instead, you keep your loop on that part of the hook and use your hook to pull it through rather than yanking with your left hand, you can actually make your stiff stay the same size and loose enough to be worked into in the next section. If your work is ending up to loose, you're probably pulling on your hook too far. If you yank up your hook, you're going to make the loop. You make really big and you don't want that. You want your work to be relatively the same size as the hook, so keep it about here. Don't yank up and use your your hook to do all the work very softly. Works slowly. This is not a race. This will get you used to doing the motion without yanking up with either your hook or your left hand. I'm gonna finish my 31 stitches and I'll see you at the end. 7. Pattern Row 1: Okay, It's time for my favorite part. Working on the pattern first thing you're gonna want to do is turn your chain sideways. We're going to be working our stitches into each one of these fees. The chain stitch has three parts to it. There's the two front loops to make the V, and on the back is this Third, Luke, Our pattern tells us that we are supposed to do a double crush a stitch in the fourth chain from the hook. To do that, we're gonna count 1234 stitches from the hook. And I'm gonna put my thumb and my middle finger over the fifth stitch that I know where to insert my hook yarn over and insert your hook in between the two front loops of the chain stitch. When you turn over, you want to make sure that your hook is underneath the third loop of the chain stitch yarn over and pull up a loop and bring it back to the middle shaft of the hook, Yarn over and pull through two of the groups that are on the hook. That's half of the double Cochet. I like to move up my thumb and my middle finger to give myself more control over the looseness or the tightness of this top path. I don't want it closing up kind of like it did when we were doing our chain stitches. I want to keep everything as looses it should be. So I do this to give myself more control yarn over and pull through the last two groups on the hook. Now you've made one double cruciate stitch. Our first chain three that we skipped over counts as a double Cochet stitch. So what we've done is created in two double cruciate increase right there in our first stitch. Our pattern next tells us to do four Double crow. She's ditches in the next four chain stitches yarn over an answer your hook into the next chain stitch, making sure that your hook is under that back loop. Pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Move your fingers up to give yourself some more control. Yarn over and pull through the last two lips on the hook. Let's do it again in the next ditch yarn over. Insert your hook and pull up a loop he ran over and pull through two loops you're in over and pull through tubes one more time. Yarn over. Insert your hook and pull up a loop. You're in over and pull through two. Young over and pull through to let's see where we're at. We've got a two double Croshere increase right here. That kind of looks like a V. Just pretend it does. And then we've got 123 double koshis stitches. So I need one more yarn over and sit your hook. Pull up a loop, you're on over and pull through two groups. Move up your fingers, urine over and pull through. To now, we've got our four double Koshi stitches. It's time to do our two double cruciate decrease. To do that, what we're going to be doing is half of a double Cochet in each of the next two stitches and then combining them into one stitch. You're in, over and into your hook into the next chain stitch. Pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Stop right there, though we don't want to complete the double cruciate stitch. Yet in the next chance ditch do the same thing. Yarn over. Answer your hook into the next chain stitch. Pull up a loop. Bring everything back to this main shaft. Don't forget that part. Yarn over and pull through to grab a stitch and yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook. What this does is create an upside down V. It combines these two stitches into one stitch. We're gonna do that one more time in the next two stitches. Yarn over and insight your hook and pull up. Luke, you're in over and pull through to and stop. You're in over in both urine over an insert your hook into the next ditch. Pull up a loop, making sure everything's on this shaft. You're in over and pull through to now. We've got our two halves, and when we yarn over and pull through all three on the hook, we've now made a decrease and it's an upside down V. Doing these two good decreases next to each other creates our valley. Let's work up the side of our mountain to the peak, and I'll show you how to make it. You're gonna do four double Cochet stitches in each of the next four spaces. I'm not gonna go is slow because you should know how to do it already from the 1st 4 stitches. So I'm just gonna work my way up the side of the mountain till I've done for. If you have to put your work down in between doing these four and you're not sure where you're at, find your two upside down V's and then count 1234 Now I know I'm ready for my deep increases to do an increase. Basically, you're just doing to dip a crow. She stitches in the same spot. So will the one double Koshi stitch. Then we'll use our hands or eyes travel down that stitch to the spot where we inserted it, and we're gonna do a second double Croce stitch in that same exact chain stitch. Oh, boy, I'm getting a bit of yarn vomit here. That means yarn. Throw up or not, it up yarn. That makes it really hard to work. Let me just entangle myself. Okay? Back to work. Finished that double Cochet stitch. And you've now got to double Croce stitches in the same space. And that creates and Avi that stands right side up. Let's do the same thing in the next chain space. Insert her hook, pull through to twice you're in over, insert a hook in the same space, pull through to twice. And now we've got to these next to each other. You'll see that in your work. You went down into the valley and now we're going up the mountain to the peak. It's time to travel back down the mountain to the valley. So we're gonna do four double Cochet stitches in the next four spaces. And again, I'm just gonna work through these. I'm not going to do it very slow because you should by now know how to do the double Koshis stitch. All right. To see if I met my correct place. I'm gonna find those two V's and count 123 and four. Yes, I'm in the correct place. Let's do our decreases. Remember, we do half of a double Croce stitch, and we stop that in the next Jane's base. We do another half of a double Cochet stitch and stop and then the yarn over and pull through all three. And that makes our decrease. Let's do that again in the next two spaces, half of a double Cochet and stop half of a double crew. She in the next Jeanne space and Stop and you're in over and pull through three. Then do four double Crow. She stitches to travel back up the mountain. That's too. Here's three, and for you know, this would come to the end of the road and we've got one last chain stitch. You're just going to do exactly what you did at the beginning of the road, which is to double Cochet stitches in the same spot. So we'll insert hook into that last chain stitch, pull the lip we're in over and pull through to twice and in the same exact spot to another double Cochet. You noticed that I kind of tug on this thing's tail end as I'm pulling the hook through. Sometimes your original chain stitch can get a little small after all the yanking and pulling your doing throughout the rest of the chain, so you kind of have to tug with this this tale here, tug on it to give yourself some movement to pull your hook through. Finish that, and you've now finished your first row of this swatch kind of looks like a W, doesn't it? I'll meet you back here in just a second for road to 8. Pattern Row 2-3: it's time for row to row to compresses the entire pattern. So once you know how to do this, you'll be able to do the entire swatch or the entire blanket. First thing you're going to want to do is to turn your work. I usually turn my work from right to left. This ensures that my working urine stays in the backward. Should be. Our pattern tells us that we're going to be working in the back. Lupo Me. Each stitch has two loops at the top normally, and Croce, you work under both of these two loops, but for this project, we want a rib to look. And to achieve that, we need to work in this back loop on Lee. So let's follow our pattern. Our pattern tells us that we need to change three to do that yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook three times at the bottom of that chain. Three, we have our first stitch. That's where we're going to be doing our first double Cochet. So yarn over and insert your hook in the back loop only pull up a loop, move your stitches back to the middle of the shaft. You're never pulled through two loops and yarn over and pull through two loops again. There's a double Koshis dish are proud of. Next tells us that we need to do four double Cochet stitches in the next four spaces. We're working down the mountain to our valley. Every time we had a valley we're going to be doing to double crow shade decreases. Every time we hit a mountain peak, we're going to be to double cruciate increases. So based on looking at your work, you should know what's Ditch you should do next just by looking at it. There's our four double Croce stitches. Since we've come to a valley, we know that we're supposed to do our double cruciate decreases. To do that, make half of double Cochet stitch twice in the next two stitches, making sure working in the back loop on Lee. Then you turn over and pull through all three loops to close it off the maker upside down V . Repeat this again in the next two stitches, making sure to work only in the back loop. Now it's time to travel up the mountain to the peak, so we do four double crow. She stitches in each of the next four spaces until we reach our mountain peak to count that we have enough. Let's go back and look at those. Decreases them a count. 1234 Yes, we've got enough double Koshi stitches. Now it's time to do it. Increases If you remember. That's simply doing to double Crow Shays in the same space. Repeat this again in the next spot. Now that we've got her increases done, we need to travel back down the mountain to the valley, doing four double Koshis ditches in the next four spaces, making sure again to work only in the back loop. It's very important that you remember this so that you can get the texture right. All right, we're back to the valley Now. It's time to do our decreases by doing two halves of a double cruciate twice and then closing it off. Repeat that again in the next two stitches. Half of a double Curuchet, half of a double Cochet and closing it off. Now we travel back up the mountain, doing four double koshis stitches and the next four spaces. This actually comprises Theo entire repeat so what we're going to Dio is now in a row. We have one last space which is actually the third chain from the Chain three at the beginning of our last row. So we're going to do to double Crow Shays in that last space working in the back loop only you've now completed road to you can see we've already got that nice rib texture going. When you turn your work from right to left and continue on, you're going to be repeating the exact same pattern of row two over and over and over again until your swatch is finished. This is the entire pattern. It's part of the reason why this is considered a simple pattern because you're just repeating the same row over and over again until you're done. When you're working through your pattern, sometimes it's easy to forget where you are and do too many increases or too many decreases . Believe me, I do it all the time. So what I like to do is every few stitches of show, or so I go back and I count how many I have that I know. I am where I'm supposed to be every time I come to a valley, I know that I'm supposed to do my two double crow. She decreases. I know I'm supposed to go up the mountain and down the mountain with four double Croce stitches, and I also know that when I get to the top of the mountain at the peak, I'm supposed to do to double cruciate increases by doing to double crashes in the same space twice. Then we travel back down the mountain working or four double Cochet stitches in the back loop on Lee. Just remember that that's an important part. No matter what roll you're on, you're always working in the back loop on Lee. The only exception to this rule is at the beginning, when you're only working into the chain, there's our last decrease. Then we have our last four double crow she stitches in the last four species and then at the top of the chain. Three we made from the previous row is where we're going to put our last two double Koshis stitches. If you kind of turn your work, you can find that chain a lot easier. Here's our last two double crew, Shay's and now we've done. Row three. See that nice route texture that we're getting. Now, I want you to repeat this, do about 10 rows, and then we're gonna do a gauge swatch, and we're gonna finish it off. I'm gonna come back after I finished my swatch and I'm gonna show you how to finish it off . 9. Tips on Changing Color: before I finish my swatch, I wanted to give you an idea on how to add a new skin of yarn when you run out in the middle of your blanket. So let's see. I've come to my last bit of yarn. I need to add a new scheme. To do that, I'm going to yarn over an answer my hook, just like I'm doing a double Croce stitch. But instead of finishing the stitch, I'm only gonna go halfway. I'm going to use the new bit of the arm from the new scheme. To finish my stitch, wrap the tail around your hook from back to front, give yourself about four inches of tail and then hold it with your first finger and your middle finger. Get your working earn on your left hand, grab the stitch with your finger and your thumb and pulled the loop through the top to complete the double Cochet stitch. Now, at this point I stopped and leave my hook in the work. Then I tie a knot in my work one and two times. The easiest way to hide your your entails when you're not using a yarn needle is by crashing over them. I'll show you what I mean. My next few stitches are three Double crow Shays. So what I dio is I hold thes tales in the back of my work. I go into the back loop just like my pattern says, but I make sure that these two yarn tales are on top of the loop that I just went under. When I pull yarn over and pull up a loop, I'm going over those two yarn tales. I finished my stitch like normal, and I keep doing the same thing. Yarn over an insert your hook going around the two yard tales, finish your stitch and do the same thing in the next ditch. Now I'm going to do my decrease. Still working over those two yarn tales. You can see them in the back now, but they'll be a little less noticeable once I've gotta moulds on Here's my second decrease , and now I need to do my last four stitches. I'm getting to the end of my yarn tales, so show you what to do once you pass the end. My last two stitches of Before and then my last ditch in my last row now I'm also going to show you how to fasten off your work. When you're done with your swatch, snip your young you're in over like you're doing a chain stitch and pull it all the way through and then tighten. When you turn over your work, you're your own. Tales will not be noticeable. Snip off the bit that's hanging out. And now it's nice and clean. Next video, I'm gonna show you how to hide the end yarn tail you just made during me then. 10. Hiding Yarn Tails: Alright, It's time to hide your yarn tail. I think the easiest way for me to do this is to turn it upside down and on the back. Now, if you remember when we hit our yarn tail when we changed colors, all we did was Crow Shea over it. It's actually right here between these stitches, but you can't really see it. So I'm going to try to accomplish the same task with my yarn tail. Let's see. I think the best way to do it is to go down a row, though, So I'm gonna go in through this stitch here, back up and through this one, and I'm gonna bring my yarn tail down to this second row here, Here. Okay. And next I'm going to go in between or behind both legs of these stitches, hoping to hide them behind the two legs. Let's go through both legs of the stitches. You can use your nail just kind of Show me that leg onto the hook. If it's being difficult, like minus Okay, then you're gonna grab your your until with your hook and try your hardest to get it behind the legs. Sure. How much you can see of what's going on, but I'm using my hook to pull the yarn tail through these legs. It's a little difficult. There goes, Okay, so now that it's hidden back there, I'm going to snip off the little end. And there my urine tills hidden. Now, if your yarn is all one color, it be a lot easier for you because you just go the back. Put your your until behind these stitches come out like maybe right here and then go back in right here and pull it back the other way. I prefer to do all yard until that's relatively somewhere around four inches so that you can go in and back through the same spot, and that allows you to have it be more secure. Meyer intro was a little small, so I only was able to pull it through once. But that's how does how to hide you your entails. And in the next video, we'll talk age 11. Gauge: The last thing we're going to talk about today is Gage. For this part, you're going to need a ruler or measuring tape. We're going to be measuring how many stitches per inch across our swatches, and how many per rose per inch tall are swatches. If I lay my measuring tape across my work, starting at the beginning of one row and ending at the end of that same road, I get a measurement of 7.5 inches wide. If I measure from peak to peak or from Valley to Valley, I get a measurement of 6.5 inches tall. I'm going to be using a calculator and writing down the information so that I can calculate what I need. I know that my project is 28 stitches wide to pattern repeats, plus the chain three at the beginning of the road. I also know by doing my measurement that my pieces 7.5 inches wide, counting all the rows of the witches. I know that I have 10 rows tall and that equals 6.5 inches. What I need to do is figure out how many stitches per inch my project is so I'll take 28 divide that by 7.5 inches, always rounding up to at least two decimal places. I have 3.73 stitches per inch. I could do the same thing for the rose 10 divided by 6.5 inches. Rounding up, I get 1.54 rose per inch. I gave you a chart of standard Afghan sizes in the resource is section of this class. You're going to pick one of those sizes and make your blanket that size for this tutorial. I'm going to pick the adult Afghan size, which is 50 inches wide by 70 inches tall, to figure out how many chains I need to make it the beginning of the work. I'm going to take my 50 inches of my final sighs and multiply it by my stitches per inch rounding up. I get 187. I know that my sticks repeat is 14 stitches, so I'm going to divide by 14 here to see how many repeats I can fit into 187. I get about 13 repeats to figure out that number. I'm going to take my 14 stitch pattern. Repeat and do it 13 times. That comes out to 182 stitches. I need to add my Chain three at the beginning of the row, and this number 185 is the amount of chains I will be making at the beginning of the work in order for my blanket to end up somewhere around 50 inches wide. Next, let's work on the length I multiply my final measurement of 70 inches by my rose per inch, which is 1 54 rounding up. I get 108 rows, so I know in order to have a blanket ends up being 50 inches wide and 70 inches tall or somewhere thereabouts. I need to do a chain of 1 85 and I need to work for 108 rows. You can do the same measurement to figure out how big you want your blanket to be. That's it for gauge 12. Conclusion: this concludes, you can crow she to how to crush a the rib ripple afghan. I'm really glad that you decided to join me in this class, and I hope you had a lot of fun just to recap. Your first assignment is to produce a picture of your finished swatch use That's watch to make your gauge and then create an actual blanket, please. Then upload a picture of that finished blanket to the project gallery so that we can all see your work. If you have any questions about gauge or any part of the project, please put it in the discussion for him and I will try to get back to you as soon as I can . Thank you so much for joining me, and I'll see you next time.