Weave Your First Woven Wall Hanging | Rachel Denbow | Skillshare

Weave Your First Woven Wall Hanging

Rachel Denbow, Creative Skills Teacher

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8 Lessons (45m)
    • 1. 01 INTRO

      2:23
    • 2. 02 MATERIALS & CHOOSING COLOR

      6:54
    • 3. 03 WARPING YOUR LOOM

      2:54
    • 4. 04 PLAIN WEAVE

      5:33
    • 5. 05 RYA KNOTS

      11:40
    • 6. 06 SOUMAK STITCH

      9:04
    • 7. 07 OFF THE LOOM

      5:21
    • 8. 08 FINAL STEP

      1:29
13 students are watching this class

About This Class

Are you ready to jump into deeper weaving waters and graduate from a cardboard loom? Want a woven project you're proud to hang on your wall? Ready to get really familiar with a few fundamental stitches that will take you where you want to go with your woven designs?

DIY Woven Art author, Rachel Denbow, designed this project-based class for the weaving novice with step-by-step instructions that are easy to digest so you no longer have to figure it out the hard way. You'll learn how to warp your loom, add plain weave, utilize rya knots, incorporate soumak, create shapes, and a few important finishing steps to get your work off your loom and onto your wall. We'll also work through tips on choosing colors, a basic overview of yarn weights and varieties, and a few troubleshooting tips in case you get hung up along the way.

Don't have your own frame loom? Rachel shares a simple and inexpensive way to create a sturdy loom to finish this project as well as household items you can use in place of weaving tools to get started.

Transcripts

1. 01 INTRO: Hi, Rachel Denbo from a fiber artist and project designer, Smiling Wave D I. Y life side of log and brand, where I teach creative skills through tutorials, e courses, workshops and, most recently, my first book, D I. Y Woven Art, which is now available on Amazon. I'm a self taught frame loom weaver. I picked it up one winter. I was searching for a new creative project, and I kind of just relied on my Girl Scout skills to create my fresh woman wall hanging. And it was, you know, a little crooked. But I hung it proudly on my wall and show my friends, and I have I have no leaving since then. I can't get enough. I searched for online tutorials and resource is, and there just wasn't anything on line that was relevant and current for frame We're leaving. There were some outdated craft books and maybe like one or two women older women on YouTube sharing their skills. But I was kind of trial and error and learn as you go situation. So since then I've been creating my own tutorials and sharing all the things that I have learned along with all of the other fantastic teachers that are out there that are discovering this for themselves. It has been a really fun trend to kind of the part of recently, and it's been fun to see how much of this growth the foundational skills you will learn in this class include. How toe work your room. Plain weave. Soon Mac Ryan knots and then how to get your wall hanging off your looming onto the wall. You'll be able to finish your own wall hanging that you could be proud of. And then you can graduate to bigger and better things, using the same skills on a larger loom wall Hangings Air really beautiful to make for yourself, but they also make great gifts for the holiday season. For friends moving into a new home inviting their first child, you could make something for their nursery. It's just a great way to infuse that extra layer of love and creativity into space. I'm here to convince you that you're gonna love leaving, and it's my hope that you joined the growing ranks of makers and creative spirits already embraced this ancient tradition in our I'll see you in class 2. 02 MATERIALS & CHOOSING COLOR: Let's talk briefly about your supplies. This project. You'll need a simple loom that measures about 12 to 14 inches. You can also use something smaller if you don't have access to a loom, Um, or you just like making things yourself. You can take a simple piece of scrap wood. This is about six inches wide and just nail and two parallel rows of finishing nails. These air pretty thin, and I space them about 1/4 of an inch apart from each other. I just use a ruler and draw a straight line and then make your marks. Neeleman. You can use a bigger piece of wood. Space them out a little bit further apart, like 3/8 of an inch to mimic this size if you'd like. So that's all you need to basically get started. Apart from your loom, you're also gonna need to weaving swords. If you don't have these, you can also just use rulers. This is a stick shuttle. It is optional. It does make a little bit faster, weaving when you're doing large swatches of color. It also keeps you from having to tuck in as many talons at the end. But it's not necessary to get started. Um, I do suggest a weaving needle. It's about six inches long, but you can also just use your fingers. Or you can use an embroidery needle. This can be found at most big box hobby stores as well as online. You will need this for finishing your leaving. On the back side. I use a beard comb for my weaving comb. You can also use a fork or your fingers. You're gonna need scissors, of course, and then some dow or pipe or stick to him. You're weaving from on top of all these supplies. Of course, you're gonna need yarn, and we'll talk about that in a little bit. You have got a variety of yarns that I love to use. These are all from my personal stash right here. We've got a cotton FEMA. This feels kind of like paper. It's a really unique texture, and it's great for adding detail. These right here are different wool blends. There's a little bit of silk and bamboo and these air really beautiful and coming great colors. This is alpaca. It's got a nice, heavy weight to it again. It's very similar to the look of wool as's faras weavings go. This is 100% wool, and this might be a wool blend thes. Both have a lot of grip to them and great texture. The Zahra chunkier variety of yarn. This is a cotton. It comes in a variety of colors or just natural. I use cotton yarn for my warp, but I also like to include it's got a little bit more of a gritty texture to it. So I like contrast ing that with some of the other yarns to add more interest, these two over here are acrylics. You can see there's a little bit of a shine to them because they're not natural fibers, but those air great for starting out when you don't want to invest a lot of money, and to a lot of the natural fibers, that can be a little pricier natural ones. So acrylics a good option for starting out. But there is just nothing better then the feel of wool and out pocket and silk in your hands, and I think it just looks a little bit more lush when you're creating a woman project at the very top. We have a wool roving. That is great. When you do assume axe ditch, you can also use it as a fringe. It's just another way to add dimension to your woman pieces and can also come in a variety of colors. Over here we have a little bit of an art yarn. This is spun tightly and then loosely, um, just makes for more interesting patterns. Art yard can be something that has, you know, bits of metallic fibers in it. Things were woven into it. Um, spars, embellishments go. Anyways, this is just a little bit of an overview. You can also cut up strips of fabric or cloth. We've those in. You can use lace, you can use leather felt you can Basically, we've plants if you want to, but these air a few that you're gonna have great access to and want to start out with. If you're familiar with fibers and you know how to network or Shea, you already know how we aren't is measured and weighed their kind of categorized from thinnest too chunky ist thinner yarns fingering yarns, lace weight yarns are for really delicate projects that are wearable, utilitarian. Um, and then you're not gonna make a sock out of a super chunky yarn, and you're not gonna make a doily out of a super chunky yarn. Then you also wouldn't want to make a really heavy sweater out of a lace weight yarn. They're just not functional, so that's how you on is categorized. It's not quite as important for weaving, but you do need to pay attention to the thicknesses of your yard because it will affect the design. Because it's some chunky ones. They're gonna take up more space than there really small ones. So that's kind of how to familiarize yourself with the names of yard when you're searching for them online, so you know what to look for when choosing colors for your design, pay attention to the colors you already have in your life. Look in your closet or look in your home and see what you've already surrounding yourself with. Another exercise I really like to use is looking on Pinterest or flipping through magazines and tearing out or pinning certain images that just catch my attention. And then I'll go back after like a month of collecting those images, and I will try to locate the patterns and the colors that are consistent throughout all of the images that have saved because that gives me a clear indication of what is repeatedly catching my attention, and it just it's already there. I just have to pay attention to it. So see, if you're drawn more, maybe two pastels in softer tones or possibly you really feel most comfortable with cooler colors. Or maybe you just love color and you need all the color. And you really want that punchy orange or that really bright green and, um, just experiment and see what speaks to you. Mix up a few different combinations and see which one calls your attention. Switch out different shades of blue or pair unusual colors. I really love doing tonal colors. Over last 10 years, I've just always noticed tonal is the way I go. I gravitate naturally, but sometimes you need a break out of a red. So just just experiment with a few things and see what grabs your attention. Your homework for this video is to gather your supplies, choose your color story and show us a picture. I want to see what colors you're using if you're looking for some feedback, share what you're stuck on in the student comment section and help each other out with which shade of gray goes better with which pink. And if you think the yellow and the blue and the green great together, or if you need to add a few more colors in there, it's a great way to use the resource that this class offers. 3. 03 WARPING YOUR LOOM: we're going to learn out of warp our looms. I like to use cotton yarn and white. It comes in a variety of other colors. Take the tail end, fold it back about three inches and then tie. And not so that they are so that you create a little loop. You want about a two inch amount of space right here. This is gonna hook over one of your pegs. Count your notches over 123456 and took over that peg so that this yarn is in your sixth. Not we're gonna ignore this piece in your fifth notch because we're going to just focus on a vertical line. Once you have that there, you're gonna count over 6123456 And put that at the very top in your six notch up here to create a vertical line. If you put it in your fifth or your seventh, it's gonna get crooked. So wrap that around so that's in your seventh notch and your seventh not down here. And then wrap this around to your eight and again just keep going back and forth and back and forth until you get to the other side of your loom. You want to end on the very bottom of your loom six not notches in with your other. Not it's important to keep both knots on the same side, Whether it's the bottom or the top. It gives you a cleaner finish at the top when both of them are the bottom because you won't see this guy, and these will be covered up by all of your weaving at the bottom part. It also affects your amount of warp rose. You want an even amount because if you use RIA Nazi need to war pros and you don't wanna have an extra one at the very end. Looking funny when you get to the end over here with your six notch in, you want to cut about this much off, and then you can wrap it around and tied in a double knot right here. Or you can pull it off with a little bit extra tied in a knot here and then just pull it down and over and if it's a little bit slack, so I know they're not help pull some that slack in. So now I just need to pull it down and over in term office. In a swell as this guy, you want to make sure your attention is consistent. So all across the warp, you can push it down about an inch. You don't want it super tight up the front and really loose on the other side. Once you add more yarn, this is going to get tighter. So you do want a little bit of wiggle room, but you don't want it so loose that it falls off the pegs. 4. 04 PLAIN WEAVE: So you've already warped her loom and now we're gonna learn plain weave. It is the most basic of all leaving stitches, and we're gonna add structural plain weave at the bottom before we get started on the rest of our weaving. But first, we're gonna add your weeding sword or your ruler you're gonna We've over and under an over and under an over and under an over and under all the way across to get this in place. This is gonna leave enough room so that when you take your weaving off of the loom, you're gonna have enough room to tie and not at the bottom to keep everything from falling off. So this is a place holder, your other weaving sword or ruler. You're gonna do the same thing with you can weave it under over, over under. It doesn't really matter how you start. I'm going to slide this all the way through. There's already a little bit of a a shed created because of the thickness. And then you're gonna move that to the very top of your loom out of the way. I'll teach you more about why later. So now you want to cut about three feet of cotton yarn and we're gonna threat are needle and leave about this much of a tail. You don't need to tie a knot or anything and we're gonna plain weave. I'm going to start from under. I'm gonna go over and under an over and under and over all the way across. Now, when I pull my yarn through, I'm gonna pull it up at an angle. You want to leave about four inches of a tail on this side, and then you're gonna pull your your yarn down towards the bottom so that you create a little bit of an arch. Then you're gonna pull it down in the center and down on the sides, and this is going to be very zigzag e because of the thickness of this. But the technique is very important. This is gonna leave enough slack in your weft row, which is what this is when you leave this way, it's left in this way these air your war pros so that it doesn't start to pull in at the sides as you weave tighter and tighter up your warped. So I'm gonna go back the other direction. You want to make sure that this yarn, if it ends over the top, it needs to wrap under and then over that under this over that under over under, over there's a little bit of a shed, which is like a gap in the thread. So it's easy to go back this way and again, pull it all the way to the top, create a little arch, pull it down the center. You can do this with your weaving comb or just your fingers. And then I like to use my weaving comb to press all of that down to bat it down so that it's flush against my placeholder. And it's not very tight right here again because of the thickness of this place holder. But you'll start to notice the warp rose pulling together, and this will become much tighter. So I've ended again over, so I'm gonna wrap it around, go under over all the way across. When you're using your we're gonna use this as a shed stick. Gonna pull this down. You can see where it kind of crisscrosses when you go this way. Pay attention to that. When we come back, the other direction. I'll show you a trick. Great. Your arch make some waves. Beat it down. Okay, so going back this way I pull down, I shed stick and I place it perpendicular to my war pros. And it creates a gap where you can easily pass your needle in that direction without having over and under the whole way. It only works in one direction on a frame loom. Other looms have different instruments. Toe make this worth in both directions. But once you've got your yarn all the way through get this back out of the way and then do your arch pull it down. There you go. So I won't use my shed stick again. Coming this way. I won't use it. I only use it going that direction. So we've about eight weft rose of plain weave down here to make sure you have a really good base. And then we will add our first layer of Ryan offs can see it's starting to get a little bit thinker down here. Okay? If you end not really on the edge. You need to have about a three inch tail. So if you run out halfway through I just took it down and bad it down. And then I will show you how to pick up where you left off. When we get to another plane, we've section as faras this tail. This guy right here, you're not gonna tie it or anything. Just wrap it around that outer work, bro. So that it's behind your weaving every all the tail ends need to go in the back side. OK, we're gonna get ready for Ryan knots. 5. 05 RYA KNOTS: So now that we've added our structural plainly with the bottom, it's time to make Ryan knots. Ryan Knots give you this great fringe and lots of texture on your weavings, and they're pretty quick to make. If you know this one trick, you need a piece of cardboard that measures roughly 12 by 12 and then cut out a piece that's about 2.5 by 4.5 inches. This is going to be what we wrap our yarn around, over and over and over to create all this French very quickly. So now we're gonna make our Ryan knots decide how long you want your Ryan oughts to be. I'm gonna get about 12 inch length, and then you're gonna double that with your yarn and add about an inch. And that's how long each strand is gonna be. Now, you could cut one strand at a time, but it would take you all day long, so I like to use a piece of cardboard and just wind it around over and over until I get as many strands I want. If you're using a thinner yarn like this, this is a cotton. Then you're gonna want between 12 and 15 strands. See, you're gonna double them up. So this is going to be the thickness of 12 strands. If you're using a really chunky yarn, you may only went 6 to 8 strands because if you get too much bulk in there, it's gonna start spreading out across your week. So once you get enough, you wrapped it around enough times you're going to cut just on one side. Remove your cardboard. So this is going to be one Ryan. Not. And for this weaving, you're gonna need 123456789 11 Ryan Knots. So cut 11 of those for the smaller cardboard. Same thing. Wrap your yarn and then cut on one edge so that you'll have shorter Ryan knots for later on . Set this aside for later. So each Ryan art is going to fold over to warp Rose. You want to start at the edge if you're going all the way across, or you can start in the center and come out. Ryan. Nuts can also just be on part of your design. Just make sure you are always accounting for two war pros. Each in your design. Find the center of your Ryan, not and lay it over the top of your first to war. Pros take one edge and rapid under all the way around and back to the same side it started . Then take your other edge rapid under all the way around to the same side. Then bring your two ends together. Make sure they're roughly even at the bottom and then pull it tight, not too tight, and then pull it down so you can see all my strands here. I want them to be neat, even though these won't be showing when you're making them on higher parts of your design, you just want a need or not. Right here we have to do is pull it down, and that will keep things tucked in place, and then you'll add more on top of it. It won't go anywhere, so continue adding your Ryan knots all the way across. So here's an example of a really messy not at the top. Here's another one. There is just, you know, fiber sticking out, and you kind of want to adjust that by pulling up at the top, smoothing it out a little bit of the top with your fingers and then pulling the yarn back and forth until you can see. Okay, this is giving me a problem. Find it down here by pulling on it and then even ing it out with the rest. It takes a little practice, but before you know it, it will be second nature. Here's another problem. You don't want to leave it to tie or pulled to tight so that it pulls the war pros together . You want to keep the spacing even all the way across. So make sure that that Ryan Nut is not too tight and again tryto even even that out as best you can by just messing with it a little bit. And these don't have to be gorgeous. They are gonna be covered up. But just for future Ryan, not magic. You're gonna want to straighten this out. So continue all the way across here. I like to tuck him under like this, even it up down here, pull to the bottom and then adjust those guys. This one's giving me problems. So I'm pulling that one by itself again. Takes a little magic. Continue on. So next, we're going to do some more plain weave and create a shape. This design, my weaving design has another angle of Ryan knots that go this way. But we need to build up to that and to create an angle I'm going to continue to decrease. When I am leaving my weft rose back and forth, I'm gonna decrease by war pros as I go this direction and that will just kind of stack the weaving up this way. And then I'll add more Ryan noughts on top of that. So after any layer of Ryan knots, I suggest weaving to at least two west rose, um, to keep those kind of tough locked in where they are. As you can see, I started on this side and I went this direction. I left out this set of war pros, and then I'm gonna back this down and continue weaving. I'm gonna do four West rose and then I'm gonna decrease by four. Warp grows. I'm just gonna use my sheds stick. We're gonna decrease by four war pros. And we're doing that because we're using right knots and they each need to war pros. Okay, so next time I come back this direction with with my wept row. I'm gonna pull change directions on this one right at this point. So we forget about that guy, and then we decreased by four. And now I'm gonna I just did to wept, Rose, I'm gonna add two more. There's one. And here's my last one, so you can see it's going to create kind of a stair step pattern. That's how you use plain weave. You can decrease warp rose to create geometric shapes. You do. This is well to create circles. That's a little trickier. You can decrease by one. You can decrease all way across if you drink something more abstract. But that's the basic premise for this. Next, we're gonna add another layer of Ryan odds. So you have added your next row of Ryan Knots and you can see I added it on top of that last decrease of plane leave. So we're gonna also I have a little bit left over from that section. You don't need to have any left over. You can just start from the edge of you want, but I'm going to go ahead and we've over that edge over under all the way across. And I'm going to go all way across the war prose that contain Ryan Knots and push that down and don't have much left on here. So I'm gonna show you what we do been ended about halfway, and you can see it goes underneath. This war broke right here. So I've added some more yarn to my needle, and I'm going to continue under that same war Pro like my arm has not ended it all over under over under that same pattern. But then I'm gonna tuck that tail so that these two, like, crisscross underneath this work, bro, You don't need to tie it in an order anything. Once you pull back this down, you can see that there's a continuous line visual line. You can overlap those if you prefer. That's another method. But this has always helped keep this. Keeps the visual line even in straight. Okay, so I want to decrease another four war prose, so I'm gonna We've 1234 I'm gonna We've to here and I'm gonna stack a couple of more wept Rose to add some height before I add one more layer of Ryan Knots in this color. Don't always use my shuttle if it's not going all the way across. Okay, so, no, we're gonna add one more layer of Ryan nuts. Only 1234 Only four writing notes right here. I said four, right. And also actually six, right? Not because we're still just decreasing by two. So add your six more right knots. And again, this just adds more texture and layers to this color in the section and will trim this up at the very end. And then I'm gonna go ahead and plain weave on top of that all the way across to secure that that keeps them from moving around and go back One more and we're running a little bit low on thread. So change that out again, tuck it under, and then adds more yarn here. And then I'm only going to go to this one right here so you can see I finished at my plane . We've I continue to reduce by four war pros and then just left a tail end. Now we're gonna add the next set of Ryan Knots, but we're gonna do them upside down, and we're gonna add them this direction. So we're gonna do the same way we learned for these. But we're gonna flip the loom and you'll see how so now that you're bloom is flipped. Remember, leave this guy alone in these two were pros. I want this one to show in this design, So take the next to war pros. But you're really not Ryan, not? And instead of coming down this way, we're gonna go all the way up because it's going to be flush against this part. Now you can't see the not when it's going this way. It's under there keeping and pushing out these fibers a little bit further from the loom. And that just adds, um, a little bit more texture in substance to your design. Don't worry about completely, even ends. We're gonna term all of these off later. You do wanna be careful, though, when it's, um when you're working in this direction, sometimes these guys can fall out, so just kind of brushed them this direction. And I hope they stay put until you're ready to move them. So continue adding these all the way across 6. 06 SOUMAK STITCH: Okay, So you should have added all of your right knots. Now we're gonna flip it back the other direction and do our CEMAC. Now, I know I just told you to secure Ryan knots with plain weave, but we're going to do that with our su max, so we don't have to worry too much about it. So I want you to cut about 10 strands of any kind of urine. Cotton you don't want super chunky if you dio maybe use like 4 to 5 strands, got about five feet of that and we're going to stick are loose ends in between the first and second war pros. And then we're gonna wrap that around the outer war Pro also called the Selvage Edge Once. And then again, you know, Sue Mac is just going to give you a whole completely different design. It makes abraded, or sometimes herringbone effect, depending on how many roads you leave. Just gonna leave it all the way around the second work, bro. So that you've gone back in this direction and then you're gonna We've a with Brown, the third war pro, and then all the way around the fourth and so on and so forth. So it's gonna naturally want to kind of build up in this direction, and then you can gently press it down and adjusted as you go. You don't want these to be terribly loose terribly tight, so I kind of just stay consistent, Only let them take up much space as there is between the war pros. Okay, so you've gotten almost all the way to the very end, and this is kind of it just looks like a twist right here. We're gonna go around the very last war pro twice before we come back in the other direction, and that builds up a little height. And then we're gonna go over the second war, bro, and continue wrapping around each one going this direction. And this is what creates a little bit once you push it down, creates that braided hair pattern, Especially since I'm using brown. This is really beautiful. When you use roving, you can't necessarily do in the single warp. Rose, when you use roving is it's so chunky. So sometimes I like to go over three, but then just wrap around that last one and then go over three more and wrap around that one and then go over three more, and that just gives it some room to breathe. And it kind of lengthens the lines. But it is just another way to, um, use the Sioux Mac stitch. It adds some really unique texture to your design. Kind of breaks up some of the plane. We even makes it more interesting. So continue doing this. If you run out, stick it behind here, cut the same amount that you were using, stick it from the back and continue all the way through just like we did with the plain weave, and then always press it all the way down to make sure it's nice and secure. When you get to the very end with your Semak, wrap it around that outer War row and once again and then just kind of tuck it behind the second war pro and that'll get it out of the way and it creates a consistent pattern. And then we will add plain weave on top of this. Okay, so now we're gonna plain weave with two at a time, two strands at a time. Put your yarn through your needle and just pull it so that you have two strands. And then I'm gonna tuck this down between those two and then go on the outside. You sometimes might need to hold on to your tails. If you're dealing with, um, slippery ARN, I'm going to be weaving a diagonal right on top of this, A diagonal line. But I'm going to stack it up to West Rose and then I'm gonna increase by two over on this side. When you're working with two at a time, you might have to straighten out your rose a little bit more if you really care about it. Sometimes they do. Sometimes they don't. But for all intents of purposes, it's always nice to take the extra effort. So instead of coming back all the way to the edge, I am going to skip thes two. I'm in a decrease by two over here as I increase by two over there. So now I'm just gonna go around this guy. But I'm gonna increase by these two come back this way, and I'm only gonna stop right here any other direction. So every onto three every three West Rose, I'm gonna decrease to work one and increased to warp rose. And then I'm gonna decrease these two war grows and then pushed us down. No, Sorry, I skipped one. So you've always got to be kind of thinking in terms of to when you're working on, uh, geometric shapes, treating patterns, you have to count a little bit. Summon increase by two over here. 1234 So yet increased by these two. And I'm gonna leave these two out. No, I mean weft pro three times get a little bit tangled here, and I'm an increase by two more so you can see and you keep pushing that down. As you go, you can see this is kind of continuing that stair step pattern, and I'm going to fill this in with plain weave. I don't want to add Ryan Knots here because then that would cover at my beautiful CMAC pattern. So I'm gonna add a whole section of plane We right here and then I'm gonna add some more Ryan nuts at the top. I want to see what you have so far. I would love if you posted a photo of your progress. What you got so far, you've already gone to the sumac part and show us what you got so we can get excited for each other. Thank you for phoning along. I hope that you're learning a lot. Okay, so this is what I have so far. I'm almost finished with mine. And I wanted to show you after we did the green plain weave in a diagonal angle, I filled this in just by filling in the gaps, filling in the negative spaces with a chunky wool yarn. And then, um, I stopped kind of At this point, it was starting to do a little bit of a curve because it's thicker on this side that is trying to match up on this side, which is fine. It kind of creates a fun little shape. So I just went with it, and then I added some of this cotton yarn. You can see. I just wasn't really sure what I wanted to do with it yet. So I added a little bit of this peach yarn. But then I decided, Let's do more right knots. So I did some upside down Ryan knots about four across, and I stacked it so that I have two layers of Ryan knots. And then, on top of that, I added too thin layers of that brownish, copper ish Ryan knots. And then I filled in this space over here with a little bit more of that wool yarn. It just, um I knew it wasn't gonna be seen, and it's a little thicker, so it weaves quickly. And then I added some more plain weave in this coral color and put a few two rows of chunky coral Ryan knots. And then I trimmed all of this up later. I wanted to this to kind of poke out a little bit and this kind of come down this way. So I kind of pushed this down as much as I could. And then I added a few more layers of plain weave in the wool and then the cotton for a little more contrast. So now I'm ready to be finished with my weaving. I like where it's at. I'm in a good stopping point. I don't wanna We've all the way to the top. So now what do you do? How do you get this thing off the loom? That's what we're gonna learn next 7. 07 OFF THE LOOM: Okay, let's get this guy off the loom. Start from your outsides and work your way in on this. You're gonna take up these two war pros and just tie and not right up here against the last Web pro. I'm gonna do this side if you work your way from the outside. And it kind of keeps it from, uh, having too much attention on this side as you release one way or the other. Sometimes I'll go from the center way out, but let's go this direction where the time All the way across. Okay, so you've got all of the top. I nodded and secured. Now we're going. Teoh, gently pull off the bottom war pros. Set your homicide and then carefully flip it over. So this is the dark side of the loom. You'll notice minds. Not terribly messy. I used extra long yarn on these sections so I don't have too many loose ends. We're gonna worry about those in a minute. I want you to remove your placeholder, get that guy out of there and then tie. You're gonna wanna trim the woops on these, and this one is You're not. And so you need to tie it to the one next to it to secure this guy. So tie those in knots all the way across. That'll keep everything from shifting down in this loose space. Okay, so we want to clean up these warp rose up here. You're gonna go ahead and cut them into individual strands. You can see right here how? I've already thread them down, stitch them down the back side. You're gonna threat one strand into your embroidery needle and then stitch it right straight down one of the West rose. You can see there's three right here. Your stitch it all the way through and pull it down and then do the same thing with the other one. This can take a little bit of time, but it does clean things up a little bit. Cases You can stitch it down the same one if it's a chunky yarn. If you have ah, junk yard to stitch down and there's only like a thinner yarn you may want to stitch up, like right here. I had an in threat and I stitched back through the same weight so that it wasn't gonna pull anything and show up on the other side so continued all the way across and stitch these all the way down and then trim up your ends. You could do the same thing with all of your other loose ends, but I'll show you the lazy girls way or lazy guy's way. Sometimes if you have to close to each other, I will just gently tie a little not and trim the ends off. And this is obviously a little bit sloppier, but it is quick. And if you're not too concerned about the backside of your weaving, its a good option. Once you've got all of the war rose on the back tied, flip your weeding back over, and you want to cut some more of your work cotton thread and put it through your embroidery needle. You might want about four feet of this, and you're going to go under the very first. Not that you just nodded, and this time you will tie a little not double, not with two. And then you will tuck that tail end back just the way you did with the other ones. So that guy goes over there. This is your dell. I cut mine down. So that's about an inch overlapping on each side, from the width of my weaving. Gonna move him over just a minute. Okay? So you can make another loop here under your not to make sure it doesn't pull out again. Get that guy out of the way. You're basically going to be stitching around your dell. It can get in the way for demonstrations. Lou, stitch around your dough. Go through the not up underneath it. Let's make sure you're consistently going around your dell in the same direction so you can see it's you might have a little bit of space you've been. Tighten that up if you prefer, then you all the way to the other side and then tie another knot underneath that side. 8. 08 FINAL STEP: So once you've finished, flip it back over Tuck those little tale ends so that they stay out of the way. Make sure you do the other side as well. So cut about two foot of your warping cord and tie. Not here. And another not on this side, even it out. And then your wall hanging is ready to hang on the wall and get a haircut. Um, you're gonna want to trim up your Ryan knots. If you put it on the wall, you can see how everything will leave flat, and then you can lay it back down on your desktop or table and works the magic getting straight angles. Or you could just kind of leave it shaggy like this. You will probably want to trim it up a little bit. Some people like really clean cuts. Other people prefer the shaggy look, so it's really just a preference. I would love to see your finish wall hanging, so please show us a picture. Um, when you finally finish your first piece and anything else that's been inspired by this, any other projects that you make down the road, we would love to see them and It's just another way to encourage other people to show them what you could make. Just with this class and in the the thing. The skills that you learn that is so foundational in this first class. Um and I'm so excited. Teoh share even more classes down the road, So stay tuned for those. Thank you so much. You guys have been great.