Watercolor Botanical Painting - Easy to Follow Steps | Disha Sharma | Skillshare

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Watercolor Botanical Painting - Easy to Follow Steps

teacher avatar Disha Sharma, Artist and Illustrator

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

11 Lessons (1h 2m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:57
    • 2. Tools & Supplies

      4:25
    • 3. Inspiration and sketching

      4:17
    • 4. Tracing - Guided Acces in iPad

      6:23
    • 5. Watercolor First Layer

      8:32
    • 6. Masking Fluid

      2:11
    • 7. Watercolor Second Layer

      9:23
    • 8. Watercolor Layering continued

      5:42
    • 9. Watercolor Third Layer

      7:35
    • 10. Final Details

      11:19
    • 11. Final Thoughts

      0:20
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About This Class

In this class, I will teach you how to paint realistic botanicals using watercolors. I will walk you through my process of approaching a painting from start to finish. I will talk about how to find inspiration, take pictures and combine different images to create a nice composition for your final painting. I'll share my simplest techniques in this class so if you are a beginner, after taking this class you'll be confident enough to pick up your brushes and start your botanical illustration journey.

We will use Wet on Dry technique instead of Wet on Wet for making it as simple a process for anyone to follow along. 

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This class is perfect for you if: 

  • You are a beginner with watercolors
  • You want to start painting botanicals with watercolor paints.
  • You have some experience with watercolor techniques but are intimidated to start with botanical illustration
  • You want to¬†learn how to create an appealing composition using your own images or the images from web.
  • You want to enjoy the process of making art¬†

Meet Your Teacher

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Disha Sharma

Artist and Illustrator

Teacher

Hello Everyone !!

My name is Disha. I am an artist and illustrator who loves to dive deep into the world of watercolors and gouache. My work includes loose watercolor florals, Realistic botanical paintings and fun gouache illustrations. 

I love combining traditional and digital media and bring life to the illustrations for commercial design, patterns and product packaging. I teach classes on many subjects from traditional watercolors, gouache painting and digital tools including Procreate and Adobe Fresco. 

Here you will find classes by me taught on various subjects from watercolor paintings to tips of using different apps like Procreate, Adobe Fresco and Photoshop. 

You can have a look at my complete portfolio on my Website o... See full profile

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello, everyone. My name is Disha. I am an artist and an illustrator, focusing on botanical and food illustrations with watercolors. I welcome you all in this class in which I will teach you how you can paint realistic botanical painting, with watercolors. Realistic botanical illustration is not just fascinating, but it can be intimidating too. The fear of blank paper when it comes to watercolors is real. Trust me, three years ago, I was in the same boat. I never imagined that there will come a time when my work would be known for my realistic style. I truly believe with patience and practice, you can also achieve the same results. In this class, I will walk you through all the essential steps I use to find botanicals with watercolor paints, I will show you how to gather inspiration and take pictures, combine different images and create your own composition, how to create the final sketch, and then trace it over on the final paper to start painting. In the class, I will be using an iPad Pro for sketching and brainstorming, but this is not a required tool, you can simply take your images and start sketching on a piece of paper. In the Resources tab, I have also provided some of the images that I took myself in a botanical garden, so that you can use them as a reference for your project of the class. If you're not comfortable with sketching, you can use the sketch that I've provided in the Resources tab for the project of this class. But I will always encourage you to come up with your own composition and create your own piece, if possible. This class is perfect for anyone who's starting out their watercolor botanical journey, but if you have some experience with watercolors, you're still welcome to take this class, as we'll be walking through very simple steps and creating a very nice composition at the end. Without any further ado, let's get started. 2. Tools & Supplies: In this video, we're going to talk about the supplies that I've used for the project of this class. You don't have to go with the exact supplies, but you can use anything that you have, just using the similar colors and brushes, whatever you have. The first thing that I will talk about is the pencil for sketching. I normally go with edge, two edge, or any pencil that ranges in edge range because they are hard and they don't leave dark marks as the B's or HB pencil. Then the eraser that I use is a kneadable eraser, which is really helpful in rubbing off the extra graphite from the paper. The second thing is this eraser does not damage the paper at all. Then I'll talk about the brushes. For mixing the colors in the palette, I use a flat synthetic brush. You can use any brush. I just use this brush because I don't like using the painting brushes for mixing colors in the palette, because that way the brushes tend to damage very easily. The round brushes that I'm using for the painting are these three, these brushes are from Kingart supplies, and this is the original gold series of their brushes. I really like the quality of the brushes, these are synthetic brushes and they come to a very nice point. The sizes that I'm using for the class are Round 6, Round 4, and Max Round 4. Then for the smaller areas, I'm using this Raphael small detail brush. For masking fluid, because we'll be using masking fluid in the class, so for that, I'm using a very old damaged brush. Just make sure that you don't use a very good brush for masking fluid. Then we'll be needing some paper towels. If you have a cotton rag that's a better option, but I didn't have one at hand, so I'm using this one. Then coming to the paints, I have used Winsor & Newton professional grade paints. You can use any paints, doesn't matter. Just make sure you don't use very low quality paints like Crayola or something like that, because you won't be getting the same results with cheap paints. The colors that I'm using are Winsor yellow, then olive green, sap green, permanent rose. You can also use any red shade or orange shade, or if you have any dark shade of yellow, that will also work. I'll be using permanent rose just to make the darker tones of yellow. For some of the areas, for greens. Then Winsor violet for the center of the flowers and Winsor blue. The palette that I am using here is this ceramic palette. You can use any palette, that will work. I'll also be using masking fluid. This is Daniel Smith masking fluid. For the center part where we have some yellow stigmas, there we'll need masking fluid. Then I'm using a jar of water, you can use two jars if you want to. I generally go with one jar. Then coming to the last thing, that is the most essential thing, is paper. The paper I use for my botanical and food illustrations, especially when I'm painting with watercolors is Fabriano artistico hot press paper. If you can see there's no texture, it's very smooth, you can use cold press, that is fine. But the difference between cold press paper and hot press paper is that cold press has a lot of texture on it. When you are done with your painting, you will be getting some rougher edges but with the hot press paper, you get very nice, clean, soft edges. That way, if you want to scan your paintings, it becomes really easy and it looks much neater. I would recommend using a paper which is at least 300 GSM in weight. Then we'll need some masking tape to tape down your paper on the table. The last thing that I will talk about is the iPad. I'll be using an iPad for sketching, but it's not the required thing, it's just optional. If you have an iPad, you can go with it. Otherwise, you can just sketch your drawing on the plain paper. Then for transferring your drawing, you will need some tracing paper just to transfer the drawing on your final painting paper. That's all about the supplies, we'll see you in the next lesson. 3. Inspiration and sketching: In this lesson, I'm going to talk about how you can gather different images and inspiration for your botanical painting and then how to sketch the composition for your final project. The first thing I always recommend is going out in nature, whether a botanical garden or for a hike or any place where you can find some florals and nature. Take some pictures yourself. You don't need a fancy camera for this. You can just use your smartphone to take the pictures. The way I take pictures is that I choose a flower or a bunch of flowers which I like and take multiple pictures of it from different angles. This gives me a lot of options to create a nice composition for my painting, and if by chance you live in a place where it's snowing or you don't have access to any floral and flowers, you can of course, take help from the Internet. Just think about a particular flower or flowers or any subject. Go in their images, look for them on the [inaudible] free websites like Unsplash and Pixabay. Then you can gather 2-3 images from different sources, and then you can combine some of the pieces of each and create a nice composition by yourself. The benefit of doing this is that you are not actually copying anyone's image, but you're creating your own unique piece. Now I'll show you my process of sketching and creating the final composition for the demo of this class. I really loved these daisies and the composition in this image is already very pretty, so I will just take this image and grab it in Procreate. Next, I will decrease opacity of this layer and create a new layer above this one. I'll start drawing some basic outline shapes to get a better sense of composition, and once I'm happy with it, I'll start working on the final sketch on a separate layer. These two flowers are looking so perfect together, so I leave them as they are. I think I'll add a bud as well, maybe this one. To make it more balanced, I'll move this back to the other side. Now it's looking much better. Now, adding some leaves. You must have noticed that leaves in this plant are very simple, so we don't need to worry much about the details of the leaves in the final painting. Now, the composition is looking really good. I'll create a separate layer and start working on the final sketch. Here, I'm just tracing over the flower outlines. We are done with the final sketch. Now, I'll save it in the image gallery and we are now ready to transfer the sketch on our final watercolor paper. In the next video, I'll show you how you can use your iPad as a light box to transfer your sketches on the tracing paper, and then finally to the watercolor paper. 4. Tracing - Guided Acces in iPad: Now, once we have finalized the sketch, it's finally time to take out your watercolor paper and trace your sketch on it. There are many ways to do this, and in this class I'm going to show you my way of tracing sketches directly from the iPad. Basically, I'm going to use the iPad as a light box. As I sketch my drawing in Procreate, I saved it as a JPEG in the camera roll. Now, as you can see that the size of those sketch is quite small and the screens size of the iPad is also not more than 10 inches, but I want to print a little larger than this. What I'm going to do is I'll split the sketch in parts and take some screenshots. To do that, I'll just zoom in the image to about a size that I think is good for my project, and take the screenshot by pressing the Home and Top button together. Now, without changing the size and carefully sliding the sketch so as to see the other portion, and then taking those screenshot again. I think it's good to go I'm taking the screenshot like so. Now, we have our two screenshots and the image gallery, and now we can trace them at a larger size. But depending on the drawing and the size that you want, you may have to take multiple screenshots, but for this one two are enough. Now, let's talk about an amazing feature in iPad that is called Guided Access. Why we need Guided Access is because if you directly place your tracing paper on top of the screen to trace your drawing, using that with your hand touching the screen, the image will move beneath, and we really don't want that. This is where Guided Access comes in handy, which actually freezes the screen and let's you trace your drawing without moving the images below. I'll show you how it works. To turn on the Guided Access, just go to the Settings of your iPad. Go down to Accessibility on the left. Under Accessibility, you will see Guided Access if you go further down. For me, it is on, but if you haven't used it before, this may be off for you. So simply go in and turn it on. Now, when you turn on the Guided Access, you'll see some options below. You can go to the Passcode settings and enable Touch ID. Now, we're ready to use the Guided Access. Now, coming back to the first image screenshot, we'll start the Guided Access. Before that, just make sure that you have only the image on the screen and not any other options on top and bottom of the screen. Now, to start the Guided Access, just triple-click on the Home button, and you will see this screen with some options. If you want, you can play with the options here, but I don't use them much. Just tap on Start, and it will ask you for a passcode. I usually set a very simple passcode, let's say 121212, and then verify passcode and the Guided Access starts. Now, if I touch the screen, you'll see nothing is happening on the screen because the screen is frozen. Now, we can simply place our tracing paper on top and start tracing and drawing. Just to be on the safer side, you can tape down your tracing paper on the table so you don't accidentally move it. Another thing that I want to mention is just try to use a soft neat pen, to avoid any scratches on the iPad screen. Now, I'll speed up the video and let you watch the tracing process. Now, we have our drawing ready on the tracing paper on a larger size. Now, it's time to transfer it to the watercolor paper. For that, I'll simply use a dark pencil like an HB pencil or a B pencil and scribble at the back of my drawing on the tracing paper. Then I'll place the tracing paper on top of the watercolor paper, and using a pen or sharp pencil, just redraw the sketch on the tracing paper. This will transfer the graphite of the pencil that was scribbled on the back on the watercolor paper. Now, the sketch is transferred on our final watercolor paper. I'll just do a little clean up using my kneadable eraser so as to get rid of any unwanted graphite marks. Here, you can also come back and fix any mistakes or fine tune your sketch if required. Now, we're all set to start painting. We'll see you in the next video. 5. Watercolor First Layer: Now I have my watercolor paper taped down on the table in order to avoid any warping of the paper while painting. Let's get started with our first layer of paint. For the first layer, I will start from the top-left flower as I'm a right-handed person, so I don't want to get any smudges with my hand. If I go from right to left, there are high chances of creating a mess, so it's always a good practice to start from the opposite side of your dominant hand. For the initial layer, I'll take very watery Winsor Yellow in my Round 4 Brush and gently start painting each petal at a time. You can see I'm simply painting with a very light yellow shade using wet-on-dry technique here. Now once the first petal is done, I'll move on to the alternate petal, which is not directly touching the first one which is still wet. This process helps in avoiding any blending or messiness in the painting. Well, you may think why I'm saying this when I'm just using the same shade, but honestly telling you, it really helps a lot in creating a very neat painting and you'll love the results if you follow this technique. I'm just passing on to the alternate petals one by one, and we'll come back once I cover the full circle of the flower. Our first set of petals is done and now the first few petals are already dry. We can move on to the remaining petals and paint them likewise. I'll just speed up the video and let you watch the whole process. The first layer of the first flower is done, now we'll move on to our second flower and repeat the same steps by painting the petals one by one. I'll just lighten some of the pencil marks here because they are too dark so that we don't see them under our painting, like so. With watercolors, the initial layers usually builds up the foundation of our painting. At this stage, in case you make any mistakes, it's really easy to fix them as the paint is very light and very pale. Let's say if by accident you use a lot of water or paint on any area of your painting, you can simply grab a piece of dry paper towel or a tissue and dab it on that area to lift off the extra paint or water, whatever it is. Water colors may seem a little hard to get a hang off as a beginner, but once you get more familiar with this medium it feels easier to use and manage. It does take some practice and a little bit of patience. Now I'll just finish this flower and will see you in a bit. The first layer of the flower petals is done, now let's start painting the stems and leaves. For that, I'll take a very watery green shade and start using my size 4 max round brush to paint the stems. Just being careful here as the stem is too thin. If you can, you can just use a smaller brush to paint the stems. I just realized that this stem is pretty thick, so I'm going to use my brush very carefully and paint a thin stem not exactly following the pencil marks. If you think that your sketch is a little off and you'll need to make some changes, you can just use your brush very slowly and gently and being very careful and make those changes very easily. After the stems are done, I'll move on to the bud. Looking at the reference image, you can see that the petals inside are very light, pale, yellowish green, so what I'm going to do is, I'll use some yellow and green to make a nice lemony green and paint that area. Now I'll leave it to dry and we'll start painting the leaves. I'm just taking a very light green as we did in the stems and lay down an even layer on each leaf. As I mentioned earlier, the leaves in our reference are not truly green. They are really simple and that makes our job a bit easier in this case, but some of the leaves have so many veins and details that it takes a lot of time to get the realistic look. I'll be coming up with a class with some advanced techniques for such details very soon, but for now this subject is perfect to practice and get more comfortable with the [inaudible] The leaves are also done. Let's move on to the outer portion of the bud. I'll be using the same pale green as we used in the stems and leaves for this area and paint an even layer. At this stage, we are really not worried about the details and the separation of each petal and leaves, so we're just painting them in one go. We're done with the first layer of the green and the yellow parts. In the next video, we'll cover the center of the flowers. 6. Masking Fluid: Before we move on to the center portion of the flowers, I want to talk about masking fluid. This is one tool that I use only when it is really needed. As we see that in the middle portion of the flower, it's all dark and purple, but there are few yellows stigmas. With watercolors, it's not easy to paint light on top of the dark paint. We will go with the masking fluid here. For that, I'm just marking some circular marks inside and we'll cover them with the masking fluid. Just randomly making the marks like so. I'm using Daniel Smith masking fluid and we'll use a very old small brush which I don't mind twisting. Just going to cover the circles that I just made with the pencil. The circles are a bit larger in size, but we can always come back and cover them. Now we're done with the masking fluid application, we need to wait until it is completely dry before we start painting in the center of the flower. I waited for some time and the masking fluid is completely dry now. I will start painting the center of the flowers with a very pale purple paint. The process is going to be same. As I told you earlier, at this stage, we're just using very light watery paint and building the foundation of all the sections of our subject. That ends our first layer of the painting. In the next lesson, we'll start with the second layer of the painting. I'll see you there. 7. Watercolor Second Layer : Now that we're done with the first layer of the flowers, let's start with the second layer. I'm going to start with the leaves. For that, I'm going to take sap green mixed with some olive green and a touch of yellow to get a nice grassy green shade. For the second layer, first I'll apply some paint on one edge of the leaf. Then wash the brush and dab it on the paper towel to get rid of excess water, and then I'll gently pull the green paint towards the center of the leaf. This will give a nice gradient effect as if there is some light falling in the center of the leaf. I will do the same thing on the other side of the leaf as well. I will follow the same process for the other leaves as we saw that the leaves in our reference are not very detailed. They are just plain green leaves, they have no veins at all. They just need some gradient effect to get a sense of some highlights which will give them some realistic look. Now we are done with the second layer of the leaves, we'll now move on to the flower petals. For that, let's have a look at the reference image, and you can see that the petals have some fine lines or veins. To approach this, we can either create these lines first or even we can do them later. Let's try painting them first. For the lines, I will take a little darker shade of yellow. I will mix a very tiny amount of permanent rose in the yellow to get a orangey-yellow shade. You can even use a red shade to create this color. You don't have to use the exact colors that I'm using here. So for the lines I'm going to use my Max round size 4 brush, which has a very nice sharp point to it. You can use a detail brush if you want to, or liner brush if you have it. Whatever works for you, you can just use that. While making these marks, just keep the shape and form of the petal in mind. Just try to draw them in a code manner as if they're merging while going up on the top of the petal. I'll cover all the petals with such lines now. I have a feeling that when we'll come back with the next second layer on the petals, these lines are going to vanish because watercolors are very easy to reactivate on paper, and this is such a light shade. But we'll see what happens. Even if the fade away, we can always come back and paint them again. This is how basically hit and trial works, and you don't have to go always very strictly with any rules or techniques in painting. You can use your own intuition while painting. If one thing doesn't work, something else will definitely work. So keep going, keep trying. It always works at the end. You can see as I'm going, I'm also covering some of the petals completely, which are behind the front petals, just because they are a little dark as compared to the front patterns due to the shadows. It's okay not to paint the lines on them. It's fine if you are just going to cover them with a darker shade completely, it's fine. It should work. Now we're done with the lines on the petals. We'll let them dry for some time. In the meantime, I'll take some dark green for the second layer of the bud, just creating a nice mix of those sap green and mix Winsor yellow in the palette. Something like this. Maybe I'll add a little touch of permanent rose just to get a little earthy tone of green. Simply going to cover the outside of the bud using the shade that I just made. After the bud, I'll move on to the center portion of our daisies. Now, looking at the reference image, we can see that the purple has a little gradient starting from a bluish purple of the top to very dark purple at the bottom. What I'm going to do is I'll mix a little blue in our purple in the palette. Just using the wet on dry technique, I'm going to cover the top half of the center with this shade, simply spreading the wet paint like this. Once I'm done with that, I'll use the purple shade and simply start painting the lower part of the center. Just using the brush to blend the two shades seamlessly. Then going to do the same thing with the second flower. Now coming back to the first flower center as it is already dry, I'll paint another layer to make the shade darker. Well, technically speaking, this is our third layer, but I just thought of taking advantage of our already wet paint in the palette, and go ahead with this step. This is how as you practice more, you'll figure out your own ways to approach our projects. 8. Watercolor Layering continued: Now, we're ready to paint the second layer of petals. Now, looking at the reference image, we can see a gradient from dark to light towards the center of the flowers. We'll try to do the same in our second layer. For that, I'll start with the left flower taking some darker shade of yellow, starting from the outer portion of the petal. I think the color is too light, I'll make it a little darker. Then washing the brush and taking the damp brush, gradually pulling the paint towards the center. This will give a nice and smooth gradient in the petal. Then going to the alternate petal and follow the same step. If you're not confident with the shades, I'll recommend using an extra piece of watercolor paper at hand and swatch your shades before you start painting on the final piece. Now, I'll paint all the petals and let you watch. Now, I've completed one set of petals and I'll just go back again in the circle and cover all the petals that are remaining, and then I'll move on to the next flower in the same way. Botanical paintings takes a lot of time and patience, but in the end, it's all worth it. I've seen so many people including myself, when starting out, they tend to give up at a very initial stage. When I was first starting with watercolor botanicals, I had no patience, but seeing other artists and observing how much effort and time they commit to a piece, I started doing the same. I'll suggest this to you as well. If you feel frustrated at any point, just take a break from your piece, walk away, take a break for some time, or even a day or two, and then come back with fresh energy that you'll be ready to pour into your piece. All right, so done with all the petals, going to just color some of the petals darker, which are sitting behind other pedals. After we are done with the second layer of petals and leaves and stems, let's move on to some detailing in the bud. I'll use my small detail brush, and to make the dark green shade, I'll make some permanent rows and a touch of blue to the green paint to get a nice earthy tone of green. As you can see in the reference image, the inner part of the bud has very dark areas, I'll use the detail brush to carefully paint there. Slowly and randomly going and making marks inside. Not covering everything, but just making some marks just to give a sense of depth inside. I'm going to take advantage of the dark green mix that I have in the palette and make some marks on the outside of the bud, just to give it a nice detailed form. 9. Watercolor Third Layer: Now we're done with the second layer. Now it's time to move on to the third layer of the painting. Now, let me tell you one thing that it's not always the case. Sometimes a painting is completed and just two layers, and sometimes it may take more than three layers. For this one, I feel that we still need to add more color as it is still looking quite pale to me. I'm going to follow all the same steps that I did in the first and the second layer. So I'm starting with the petals and doing exactly the same thing that I did in the last video. Starting with some yellow color from the top and coming down with clean brush towards the center. I will just speed up the video and let you watch. I'm pretty happy with how the petals are looking now. I'll let them dry and work on go inside of the bud. The inner part of the bud is very light. It's almost like a lemony green shade, so I'll take some green and mix it well with some yellow to make a very nice lemony green shade. I'll use more of yellow than green in this case. Again, using the small brush, I will paint in the inner part of the bud. Once we're done with the bud, we'll let it dry and we'll move on to the stems. I'll start with the leftmost stem and we'll take a dark green shade for this. Since this part of the stem is just below the bud, so it is supposed to be slightly darker than the rest of the stem. What I'm going to do is just simply start from the top of the stem and then pulling the paint downwards with a damp brush, just like we did in the flower petals. With the stems just be careful with your brush strokes because they're very thin and you need to have a very steady hand with such small areas or thin areas, I would say. Similarly, I'll work on other stems. This demo is looking very pale, so I'll just layer it one more time. Watercolors look darker when they are wet and once they're dry on paper, they tend to fade and that is why layering is really important with this medium. After the stems, I'll go to the leaves and follow the same technique as we did before in our first and second layers. Starting with some green on one edge and then pulling the paint with the damp brush towards the center of the leaf. We'll work on the rest of the leaves in the similar way. Now we're done with the last and the final layer. Let's move on to our next lesson where we will work on the final details and finishing. 10. Final Details: Now it's time to work on the final details and finishing our painting. I will start with the center of the flowers. Let's look at the reference image. As you can see, the center of the flower is full of small stigma and stamens. If you want, you can do a lot of detailing but for this class, we will keep it pretty simple. We will just make simple marks using dark purple shade in the center. For that, I'll make some of the purple in my palette. I'll add some little blue to the purple, just to add some variation in the color. I'll just watch it out, just to be sure. I think the shade is looking good. I'll go with this one. Now taking the detail brush, I'll start making tiny spots randomly in this area. I'm just using the tip of the brush here to get my small spots. Adding some more where I think I can add more depth. Now, I'm going to do the same thing with the second daisy. Once I'm done with one layer of this part, I created some dark tone of purple by adding this dark mix, some permanent rose in the purple to get this dark version of purple shade. I'll use the shape to again paint some spots at the lower portions of the center. This will give more depth and definition to the center of the daisies. Going to do the same thing in the second daisy. Just randomly making the spots. I'm also making some marks on the upper portion just to add some more interest. It's looking pretty good so far. Now the next thing that we need to do is, once the center is completely dry, we'll have to remove the masking fluid and cover the tiny spots with the yellow shade. While this is drying, let's work on the bud. For that, I'll take some green mix that I already have in the palette and simply paint over the outside of the bud. Just like this. I think I can still add some colors in the stems. I'll just use the same green shade and work on the stems. Here, I'm adding the paint on one side of the stem and pulling it to the other end. This way the stems will look more damaged now instead of looking very flat. Now coming back to the center, there are many ways to remove the masking fluid. One of the ways is by rubbing an eraser over the masking fluid. But I generally don't use an eraser because sometimes it messes up with the paint. I'll just use my finger and rub it over the masking fluid to remove it. Just dropping it carefully and just be sure while using your finger that your hands are really clean and free of any oils and dust, otherwise you may end up transferring the oils and dirt on the paper. I'll use a paper towel to get rid of the dust that we get while removing the masking fluid. Now I'm going to take some yellow in my small detail brush and I'm going to paint over these spots. Some of these spots are a bit bigger, but we can come back and cover them later with the dark paint. The next thing that is left is to add some detail lines in the bud using the detail brush again and using the darker green shade. I'm simply going to make these lines to give it more dimension and form. Simply adding just the greens and the yellows wherever required. Now it's time to work on the petals. I'll take the Maxine brush again and we'll make some dark yellow in the palette. Now starting from the left flower, I'll start adding some dark shade again wherever I think it is required. As I said earlier, yellow is a pretty pale color and there are chances that you may need to add more layers than any other color. Don't hesitate in adding extra layers if required. Next thing that I want to do is to make these yellow spots a bit smaller. For that, I'll take some purple and use the small detail brush. I'll just try to cover some of those, to make them smaller. Just carefully going to outline these yellow dots with some purple paint so that I can make them a little smaller. Now our painting is pretty much done. I still think that I can add some more finishing lines and details in the petals, but before that, I'll remove the masking tape to make it easier for me to paint over the petals. It's always a good idea to remove the masking tape slowly and away from the paper. That way you can easily avoid any damages to your painting. This way I can turn my painting upside down to work on the details easily. Now, I'll use the detail brush again and with the dark yellow shade, I'll add some lines and more details wherever I feel it is necessary. Sometimes you may just want to take a break from your painting for a while and just come back and see with your fresh eyes. That way you can get more sense if any last minute details are needed or not. Just using the tissue paper to remove this drop of water. You can use tissue paper to just remove excess amount of paint or water if by accident you add a different color. You can just fix such mistakes while the paint is wet. Now that sums up our painting. I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I will love to see your project. You don't have to paint the same subject. You can take your own pictures or use the one that I've provided in the resources tab. Don't forget to share your project in the project gallery. 11. Final Thoughts: I hope you enjoyed the class, and I'm really excited to see all your projects. Please do share your projects in the project section of this class, and if you can, you can also share them on Instagram and tag me, @markdisha. I'll be more than happy to share your projects with my Instagram family. See you in my next class.