Travel Photography for Beginners: Enhance Your Pictures with Lightroom Editing! | Mariya Popandopulo | Skillshare

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Travel Photography for Beginners: Enhance Your Pictures with Lightroom Editing!

teacher avatar Mariya Popandopulo, Photographer & Illustrator

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

12 Lessons (23m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. General editing

    • 3. HSL editing

    • 4. Copy the edits

    • 5. Correcting horizon

    • 6. Reframing

    • 7. Making use of the clone tool

    • 8. Correcting perspective

    • 9. Dealing with chromatic aberration

    • 10. Using radial filter

    • 11. Using graduated filter

    • 12. Conclusion and project

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About This Class


In these short and sweet series of “Travel Photography for Beginners” classes I will talk about light, composition, making portraits and editing. I decided to break these topics into separate classes so it will be easier to digest.

This is the fourth class of the series and here I will talk about how to edit your travel pictures in Lightroom.

  • How to quickly enhance your pictures with basic editing
  • How lens correction can help you achieve more believable looking image
  • Why radial filter is an awesome tool for travel portraits
  • And other useful things =)

So, press enroll button and lets do some editing!

Don't forget to check out previous classes in the series to get better understanding of Light, Composition and Travel Portraits: 

1) Travel Photography for Beginners: Let’s Talk About Light

2) Travel Photography for Beginners: Let’s Talk About Composition!

3) Travel Photography for Beginners: Quick Portraits on the Go

Prefer traveling light with your phone camera instead of bulky DLSR?

I've got you covered with an iPhone photography class

Be sure to check it out to take your mobile photography to the next level! =)

Oh, one more thing!

For those of you who are not on premium membership, here is a link for a free enrollment in this class =) There are 20 free places currently.

And for those who want to upgrade to premium membership, get 3 months of Skillshare Premium for only $0.99  Here is my link to use that offer

Have a great day! =)


Music in intro and conclusion: “Singing In The Rain (Instrumental)” by David Mumford

Licensed under Attribution License

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Mariya Popandopulo

Photographer & Illustrator


Hi! My name is Mariya and I am photographer and illustrator based in Almaty, Kazakhstan.

I never could quite decide what do I love more - photography or illustrations, so Im doing both =D

I have illustrations portfolio on Behance

My preferred social media currently is Instagram (no surprise here =D)

I also post comics and doodles under Pinks&Roses name

See full profile

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1. Introduction: I'm a big fan of editing, whether to less report greater extent. All of my images have been from some sort of digital editing. For the majority of the images taken on my camera, I use light from as my primary evident, especially for Travel Forever's, because I find it that the letter was very suitable to deal with large amounts of pictures . Hi, my name is muddy and them from and this class I will talk about my editing process when it comes to travel photography. Among other things, I will show you how to quickly handsome picture with basic editing, how lens correction can help you achieve more believable looking image. And what radio future is an awesome to for trial portrait so present whole button and leads the same entity? 2. General editing: basic settings editing. So let me show you how it normally edit the picture. First of all, I go down here and take the enable Professor Corrections. The lengths that you use pretty much ambulance will have some sort of distortion and then getting the wider the lens. Typically, the more distortion. I prefer to address this issue at the very beginning, as it effects image exc a little bit. See that the images lighter in the corners after the correction is applied. Then I go back to the very beginning at the basic section and go through it settings. I shouldn't role for months. So the white balance section gives me much more options, although they light shade etcetera. If you shouldn't jape it, they will only be two options as shot and auto. So I would encourage you to work with the sliders. In this case, back to the u have sliders here where you can achieve the white bones he want with more precision. There is a temperature slider and a translator in the temperatures lighter, the more to the right. Your the warmer, more yellow your picture will become If you move your slider to the left, you will get cooler tones. More blue did the similar to temperature but works with different colors. Green and magenta. Same logic as with temperature. If you move this letter to the right, your image will become more purple magenta. Sliding it to the left will make image more green Most of the times I'm actually happy the way my auto ballons worked on the camera and live settings as their. For example, if I try a light from Ultimo in this case, it will make a picture to warm to my taste, and the clouds will lose their intense look. Our notice that using process will change both temperature and tin. Next obvious editing is exposure. Once again, it's a great idea to capture good exposure in camera, whether you should enroll or JP, especially JP. But sometimes, if you should Emanuel you may be rushed to take a picture and deal with the exporter F editing stage. So for this image, the general exposure is okay, So let me show you another one. This one. Oh, something when come politically wrong here. I guess I was shooting in shadows before and didn't change my settings accordingly. When I started to student bright light. So here is why I shouldn't roll. I can change the exposure quite a lot and save even such a terribly exposed image. See, let me show you same picture. But if it was a jape, it exported this image as a J pick and uploaded a back to lateral as a J big. If I go as low as I did for my row file, I will start to lose contrast and colors see so in jail bit, it is very, very important to get the exposure right in camera while shooting because your options to correct significant mistakes would be quite limited. All right, back to the image M editing. I proceed in the same order as the light from Tab is arranged and normally would bump the contrast a bit at a bit of drama to the picture. Contrast in the image is the difference between its light and dark areas. The higher the difference, the higher the contrast. So these next lighters are essentially the components off. What makes the contrast highlights shadows, whites and blacks. Basically, you can achieve the same results as with contrast by using those sliders but with a greater precision because you can control the amount off each component. Sometimes you lights already okay or too bright, as in this case and all you want East intensify dark areas. So instead of using contra slider, which will affect everything darks and lights leaving your like way too right. Look at the sky. You can just affect darks living the lights intact by bringing down blacks or shadows. Oh, both. In addition, you can go even further and bring the highlights and whites down to to get a little bit more detail from them again. Look at the sky game. So if I find that contrast, slider does not do the job too well. I need more control over the darks and lights. I will use the sliders on this picture. I may want to reduce the highlights to get more details from the clouds. I know also reduced blacks Justin bit at even more contrast lately, I mostly prefer more natural looking images and don't use situation or vibrance that much. And when it comes to colors, I'd rather work with each color separately in 80 self section. I will talk about it shortly. Both vibrance and saturation effects, all colors of the image. And if you choose to use them trying to take the sliders to the extremes because, well, you can see it makes picture looks terribly unnatural. If I do choose to use the sliders, I would normally opt for vibrance as it is a bit more subtle. All right, so just after the basic settings picture looks better. It still looks reasonably natural, but now has more contrast and colors. So here is it before and after. 3. HSL editing: another tap that I use quite often when editing. Travel pictures is H of subsection, which stands for hue saturation and eliminates. Here you can target specific colors. If you want to change color, use Hugh Sliders, for example. I would like to make this picture a bit cooler, and in addition to bringing down the temperature, I can also change colors to intensify the look. Make greens more science rather than yellow. Yellow green is warm, while science is definitely a cool color, so taking the slider to the right will make picture more cool. See saturation Slider is pretty much obvious. Here you can saturate or disa trees some of the colors. In this particular case, I want this for us to be more unfriendly rather than cheerful and colorful. So in addition to making it cooler with temperature and sign green, I will also bring the green saturation down. Finally, you have the living insider. Personally, I see them as making colors darker or making a letter with this picture once again to continue with dark forest, feel I will bring the green slider to the left, your is it before and after all of the changes applied. I'm not dressed it, but they do change the mood of the picture. One more thing about SSL. Sometimes you can't decide which slider you need to move to get the result. For example, here I want to make the red origin of small visible. Instead of moving each rider separately, you conduce this little get button here and present at the desired allocation. They're often my case Now. You can use up or down keys to increase or decrease situation, and you will see that both red and orange sliders will move accordingly. See, same can be done with luminous and saturation. 4. Copy the edits: save some time by coping basic edits. I work with basic sliders on pretty much every picture. So instead of repeating the process most of the time, I just copy the settings I made on one picture and paste them onto others. You can also make a custom present if you like. The present is a combination off different edits on your picture saved so that the same combination can be applied to other pictures. You can say the press it for future use here, or just copy the edits from your initial edit and based on the other pictures as you work for the father ship, this is a scary pop up table era. It's actually pretty logical. It just lists all possible edits you can do with a picture, and since we use just basic it, it's I will antic all at first and then select only the ones I work. Don't know that I also select the Let's profile correction. I don't copy the white balance and 80 sell settings, however, because I find it better to adjust it on each image separately. I also take the process version because that exclamation mark just really bothers me and I press copy. So I already have made my best decayed Ready. Now I would normally go and try my edits out on different images. Although it is dumping to just synchronize all images to the same press, it truly saves you some time. I never do that, except for the cases where I know the light is almost identical, like shooting with artificial light in the studio. When dealing with pictures with natural light, you will find that the light may change in a second, and it will have a significant influence on how the edited picture will look like. I almost never leave the edit as it is, even if it seems to do in a cage up. If you want your every image to stand out, you will have to tweak and adjust pretty much every single one. Even if you have a ready made president or saved settings, let me show you my process. So this is the first image from my selection. I placed my settings here and well, the result is okay. However, the white balance wasn't edited, so I want to make it a little bit warmer, since the white walls here have a slight bluish. Maybe like this? Yep. That looks better. Here. Is that before and after. Okay, let's try it on a different picture. Once again, I press based and the image transforms instantly. Do I like the change? Yeah, I look good but can improve it. This image is slightly over exposed, so I will bring down the exposure to about here. Alright. But by doing so, and knowing that highlights are down from my previous safety edit, I lose some of the contrast. So I reset the highlights. And, you know, I'm actually increased wise to make those houses stand out even more. Okay, I think I will also bring down the blacks to intensify the contrast right about here. Now, I really like the colors of the image now, but I remember that it was a very warm, sunlit morning, and I want to add just a hint of it to the image by making it slightly warmer. So I movement temperatures slider to the right. Okay, here is the before, and here is after pretty go, right. The idiots are not overwhelming. Yet The picture looks so much more appealing. And here is the original base, that edit and the final version. You can see that with additional editing. It does look better next image. So I press based again. And here is what we have. As you remember, the highlights were brought down in initial editing and does work here because if I reset them, here is what happens. I really like the one tones in this image and how white bones worked in camera just out of curiosity. Let's see how light from Oh told it. Well, this one is a big tickle to my personal taste, and the daylight is just a warm. So sometimes the basic edit you saved on one picture will work almost perfectly on another . But sometimes it will require some point to me, right? Let's do just one more. This is the original image. Here is what happens when I placed my original settings better, but I think from this one I definitely want much more contrast to bring on the drama heavy blue skies and sunlit scenery. So, first of all, I reduced exposure at then drug contrast even further, and I also reduced blacks even more, making doubt areas more pronounced right. This looks better What else can I do? Remember the age of cell sliders? Here I can make skies even heavier by moving the blue luminous to the left, and I can also make trees leaves a little lighter and brighter by taking the green Luminant slider to the right. See, here is the original based its settings, and here is the final result. Now let's move to the third section off the class, correcting some of the most common mistakes. 5. Correcting horizon: correcting the horizon. Falling Horizon has got to be the most popular sort of Mr. It doesn't significantly worse in the picture, but it makes it a bit old as we're more accustomed to straight lines. So the horizon is supposed to be horizontal unless they have loads and loads of time to perfect your every travel shot in camera. And let's be honest, no, many of us do. There are going to be a lot of shots on the go, and many of them will be tilted to one side or the other. And it's okay because you can fix it in light from when in light from developing mold, Go to crook overly right here at the top. Press it and you will see the rule of thirds grade. You can use the horizontal lines to straight in your horizon's like this, or you can use this angle toe for the exact same purpose. Just press this little rule I can hear. Find the line on your picture you think should be horizontal like here, right click on one side and without letting go drug the ruler alone, the line that should be horizontal. Once you let go light from will rotate the image so that your reference line will be horizontal. Then 6. Reframing: reframing when taking images. It is a good idea to look out for and exclude any destructing looking objects that may get into your picture. Like here, you can say metal frame most of the times. It can be quickly fixed with just simple repositioning of yourself or your candor. But sometimes we're so fascinated by the view. We just never noticed that there is a big metal structure right at the bottom of the picture, the one easy way off saving a picture like this Easter crop, an image so that the destructing object will be left out for this. You can also use the same tools as frustrating in the horizon. The crop overly just grew up one of the corners and drug the frame. So to exclude anything I wanted made sure that the custom ratio here is said to other original or I should so that you will keep the pictures proportions intact. 7. Making use of the clone tool: removing unwanted objects with spot removal toe. I love light from spot removal toe, and despite the name, I rarely use it as a face reduction tool but rather a tool to remove unwanted objects. It may not be Asper size as if you were working in photo shop, but it does work quite well. So whenever I can, I do the necessary clean up in the light room rather than Photoshopped. Here is an example. I really like the light here. Composition is okay. It's not perfect, but OK, but what I totally love about this picture is the light and vivid colors. One thing that bothers me here, however, is this little metal box with a lump inside. I know for sure that I can remove it and Photoshopped, but knowing that I have a lot of pictures to edit, I would try and see if it can be done in light from. So here is this. But from a photo, there are quite a few settings, but don't feel discouraged. I will explain the middle bit. So here is what I do, I said, my spot removal toe to heel. I just decides to cover the area off the unwanted objects, said the feather to about 50 80 and always keep my apace idiot 100%. I put the circle on the unwanted object and search forced, but that looks reasonably similar. This area here looks quite good to me, so I just set my source here and here we go. I zoom and see if it looks okay and to me. Thus, of course, it's not perfect, and a keen eye will see the repetitive partner in the grass here. But I'm not planning to sell this picture, and I just want to give it for my photo album. So elevated that. So what if I used other settings? Let's see the difference between Clone and here is that clone does exactly what it says. It takes the sample area and cover Stan wanted object with it. The healing, however, takes the sample area, but that's adapted to the area where we cover our object. See how color off the corrected in rematch is much better when the sport it'll said to hell , as opposed to Toronto. If I reduce capacity as expected, the area will not be covered fully, and in this case it looks messy and a bit like a ghost. However, sport Yamamoto has its limitations. This is another picture taken at the same place, but this one is horizontal For spot removal Toto work, you have to have enough sampling area to work with. In this case, if I use a large brush size and a large feathering, I will end up with this. See, there is an edge here, and that's because the sampling area went outside of the picture here. However, if I lower the feathering, I can also lower the size of the sample and feed it into the picture like this. Now there is no it, and the picture does look OK in the latest versions of Light From the Sports Removal Tool can also be used not really as a sport, but rather as an area. For example, if I wanted to cover this tourist, I made go about it like this. Of course, it's not perfect, and once again, if you need more precision and believability, I would suggest using photo shop. But as a quick to lie truce portrait, Movoto is awesome, and that's a very impressive job 8. Correcting perspective: corrected the perspective with vertical transform toe When taking pictures in the city. Most of the time, you will be on the street meaning ground while shooting in front of you or above you, like here. The problem is that this will affect the pictures perspective. You see, the vertical lines are leaning towards each other, and since human eyes are more accustomed to straight lines, these kind of images would look a bit weird to the viewer. However, you can takes it to some extent in Lytro. Let's start with the picture we walked on already. This one, the perspective Correction toe is located here in the transform section, but first I make sure that the enable profile corrections is check. It lessens the lens vindicating, and it also corrects the lens distortion of etc. Now I will work with this slider vertical. I don't really have any strict rules when it comes to correcting perspective, obviously going too far and gonna make your picture better. But using this still a little bit can really make an impact. Now you'll notice the white frame appearing at the bottom and sides off the image to remove it. Don't forget to check the constraint crop option here. Here is it before you Nestor, be aware that changing the perspective will result in some image trimming. So if you are shooting with the intention to correct the perspective later, it's a good idea to should slightly whiter so that you can have enough room at the edges that can be trim the way without compromising your composition. Okay, let's see a more visible example here. You can clearly see the perspective is off. Houses are falling to the back and their roofs are trying to reach each other. Now I will check the enable professor corrections option so that the lens distortion can be eliminated to some extent. Finally, I will move the vertical slider to the lift. Just about here you can see by the size of the white area there is going to be quite a lot of trimming in the upper part of the picture. So I press constrained crop and see if more tweaking should be done. I think the picture is better now. Here is the before and after, However, I think that less distortion is still present, the buildings still a little bit too curvy, so in this case, I can also use the search Intell here, the strait and the image even more. Now this one I like better. Okay, Done. 9. Dealing with chromatic aberration: chromatic aberration problem. Chromatic aberration, in simple terms, is a colored shrink around the edges off some object of your image. Typically, they will be either purple or green. The problem with chromatic aberration is that those colors occur where they're not supposed to like On this image, most of the times you have this particular problem when shooting back light that is the source of light son. A brightly lit sky is directly opposite the camera, so I have these two examples here. Both are with trees. For some reason, trees are my most popular photography subject that suffer from this particular problem. On this image, even from a distance, you can see the magenta colors in the middle of the image right here, where son is Chinese for the branches. If I zoom in, the purple fringe becomes very obvious. Now this magenta has gotta go because whether the image just looks bad, so I go to Lens Correction Section manual. As you can see, light from offers, a solution for both purple and green fringes. In this image, I don't have a problem with green, so I only work with purple sliders, moving slider to a value of about five does a reasonably good job. You have to know that this comes at a cost. The purple color does not just go away. It is dis iterated. So the leafs, which were purple, do the chromatic aberration will not turn green. They will turn great, so there is a trade off. But in most cases, it's worth it as great is more neutral and blends into the image much better than out of place. Purple here is the before and after the chromatic aberration. Correction. Another image of a tree in nature. This time I did not should directly after Stan, but the skies quite bright. So if we look closely, we can see the green fringe around the trunk and branches off the tree. Same strategy as before. I move the bring slider to the right. There is a little bit of sign right here, and I can try to reduce it by using this slider and moving it to the right as well. Here is it before enoughto when dealing with chromatic aberration. Well, actually, when doing any editing, use everything in moderation. For example, if I have pushed all the sliders to the extreme values, I will get this very weird effect here 10. Using radial filter: here is my top tip To improve your travel portrait photography. Use radio filter to brighten up the face. Let me show you an example. This is an unedited picture here. I already edited it. I like the colors and overall exposure. However, face looks a bit under exposed as you can see my overall exposure easel re up. If I increase it further, it will leave the city behind me overexposed, and I will lose details off the does things. So instead I want to just bright in the face area. I go to the radio filter to right here. Click and drag the circle oval. In my case. Now I can adjust my exposure and pro the shadows like this. I deliberately included neck area as well, since the Brighton area has to look natural and just brighten in the face and live in the neck dark. We'll look a bit to wear, see, always try to be settled so that the result will look like it was a good life scenario. Here is another example. Here is average, no limit and this is the same image after I edited. I like it, but as before, I think it will benefit from a little bit of writing. Once again, Just drop the syrup and the justice settings. And there you go. Here is the before and here is the after. 11. Using graduated filter: make use of Grady Ated filter. Same as with Brighton in the face. You can correct part of your image exposure and colors with graduated filter. The options are the same, but this time it is not a circle, but a rectangular filter. Click on this icon here said the point on your image and drug, the filter across to cover the area that needs some adjustments. In this case, the left side of the picture is very dark, and I would like to brighten it up a bit. So while my graduated filter is active, I increase exposure and shadows, and, as expected, I start to lose contrast. So I increased contrasts as well. I also noticed that since this part of the street isn't shadows when being brightened up, it starts to look slightly cold. So if I want to make my image more consistent, I may bump the temperature. But like this here is that before in here is after 12. Conclusion and project: So there you go, my most used light from those when it comes to editing large amounts of pictures. If you have any questions or need more explanations, please Post goes to the discussion board, and I will do my best to answer for now this class complete travel photography series. If you haven't checked the previous classes on light composition and trouble portrait, be sure to check out the about section where I will post the things to them for the class project. I wanted to edit one of your child pictures and posted before and after in the protect. It can be a general editing, targeting, exposure, contrast and colors so it can be a mistake correction, like removing an unwanted objects. Thank you for taking this class, and I will see you in the next one soon.