The Easiest Sleeve Insertion (Couture) | Marcy Newman | Skillshare

The Easiest Sleeve Insertion (Couture)

Marcy Newman, SewwwMuchMore!

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8 Lessons (21m) View My Notes
    • 1. Sleeve Intro

      0:41
    • 2. Shoulder seams are together

      0:52
    • 3. Pin Bias to hold

      0:19
    • 4. Iron Bias tape if needed

      0:25
    • 5. 5 Sew bias to Head between notches

      2:04
    • 6. Pin sleeve to garment

      1:41
    • 7. insert Sleeve

      8:24
    • 8. Hams are for Sleeves update

      6:10

About This Class

My classes are designed with the absolute beginner in mind, which is why they are a series in order.

The Easiest Sleeve Insertion (Couture) is for the experienced Sewer and is not part of the series of Beginner Videos

You are going to love this technique of putting in a Sleeve! It's so easy and is a Couture technique that you will not find in any pattern. I learned it in Fashion Design School and have been using it for years. It's not for a gathered sleeve, which requires the long stitches to gather first. Watch and See! Tell me what you think. Feedback is important.

Look for the Beginner Series:

1. Sewing Machine Basics - Seen one, you've Seen them all. An experience I had showed me that Sewing Machines have been designed the same way for years. My hope is to diminish anxiety about the Sewing Machine by revealing my Discovery. I compare two machines which I hope will show you how you can use this information in the future. At the end you will find added information about Needles, Tools and How to become A Relaxed and Happy Sewer, followed by the most common issue newbies have with the Sewing machine. This will save you spending $100 for unnecessary Maintenance fees. I welcome any feedback and am always willing to answer questions. 

2.  What Sewing Patterns DON'T Tell You--Will lead the Beginner from the Purchase of a Pattern to the Laying out of pieces and testing the pattern (called Making a Muslin) before cutting out fabric, filling in all the blanks I've discovered after years of Sewing and studying Fashion Design. . (This video is temporarily being fine tuned and will be available shortly)

3-All Sewing Patterns Start like This: (Pattern Drafting Basics Theory)- Background information of the Slash and Spread method showing where pieces may be adapted or changed as learning increases. 

4-Sewing Without Reading a Pattern - Because all my students asked me to teach them How to read a pattern, I teach using the process I learned in Fashion Design School. With this understanding of the Step by step process, the New Sewer will learn what must be done first, and what can be done later.

Transcripts

1. Sleeve Intro : Are you a beginner solar or are you inexperience sour? Regardless, the method of sleeve insertion that I'm going to teach you is not something that you'll ever find on a pattern. I sowed for years before I studied fashion design where I learned this couture technique. I've never seen it since. I've never heard of anybody using it. And yet, you'll see through the video that I'm really blown away still by how efficient it is and you will be very surprised. So let's get started. 2. Shoulder seams are together: you've already sewn together the front and the back of the garment out the shoulder seams, and now we're going to put it in garment. Normally, a pattern will tell you to create a long, basting stitch between the notches at the seam allowance line. So if you're working with the pattern, it will say 5/8 of an inch, which you would so the basting stitch at the exactly 5/8 of an inch seam allowance line between both of the notches and then parallel to that within the seam allowance. So maybe order of an inch from the first stitch, but the couture technique so much easier. 3. Pin Bias to hold: hi on about to put the sleeve in the garment, and I just want to point out that here we have the head of the sleeves. So what I've done is I've cut to pieces of bias. State regular by estate that's about one centimeter wide. 4. Iron Bias tape if needed: and I'm going to press it with the iron so that it's flat. Then I'll come back and I will show you the couture technique for putting in a sleeve without any gathers in the garment. That's the easiest thing you ever want to do. All right. See you in a minute. See you in a minute. 5. 5 Sew bias to Head between notches: I'm ready to pull the bias tape along the head of the sleeve. I've gone around and marked with a chalk wheel all along, where the one centimeters seam allowances for myself to make it a little easier. And I'm just going to begin the sewing at that first spot. And then Aiken begin stretching the bias tape right on that chalk blind. Stretch it as I go in a basting stitch along the head of sleep. The bias tape is one centimeter wide so that it gives a really good stretch. You might not think it's doing anything, but you'll see how it'll be perfect just to the second launch. Now that I've sown the bias taped to the top off the head of the sleeve, you can see that it's made kind of a perfect little term can see that it just naturally turns over. You can kind of see there that that it's just gathered a little bit, but it has be right at the top of the sleeve. You can see that it turns itself right over. It's got a great little curve, and when you put it in the head of the sleeve, you'll see 6. Pin sleeve to garment: So now I'm gonna pin it at the edge, starting at the edge pennant, where the notches independent between their one time gonna pin it up, the head of the sleeve, the head of the sleeve and I'm going to pin it again in between the notch and the other kind of kind of conform old it a little bit. You can see that it's making little waves there and just throw throw a pin in there one or two times and then I'm not sure if you've ever heard of the concept of easing it in. But I was quite surprised when I studied fashion that the teacher had said to me, You ease it in and I've never heard that. I never heard that when I made ah pattern. They never said that, but But actually I used to try to stretch something on the outside to get it to match the other side. And then I finally realized you ease it in. So even though this looks asses, though, it's there's a lot of excess there. You're actually going to be able to, slowly as you so it you're going to be able to ease it, ease it in so that it all gets it all gets in there, you might end up having one or two little places where it's folded. It's over itself, and you might have to go back and try to ease it in again, but eventually you'll be able to get it. 7. insert Sleeve: now using my one centimeter seam allowance and removing the pins of the goal I am going to So the sleeve into the informant, using it in between the pins by kind of okay, going slowly and not stretching, but kind of pushing the fabric under the needle. Trying not to get any buckles and sewing right on top of the biased tape sewing line has gots where the seam allowances because that's where the seam is. Sometimes the way that you can ease fabric into seem is by using a large pin and just kind of pushing the fabric under as you so gently. Slowly. - There are still times when I use the gathering method to put in a glass leave into a garment, but most of the time I don't like gathered sleep. So my garments that I design and make are are not gathered. So this means that this is the perfect method for putting us leaving, pulling your needles pins out as you go even today right now. When I started this and I looked at the excess fabric that I had, it seemed like this was not gonna work, but it works. Actually been able to ease in all of the excess that I had, like just pressing with my fingers, sometimes under making sure nothing's being tuckered, have to go slow but slow is good straightening at are making sure you're not gonna get any Parker's Well, I'm really surprised that this worked because I thought, Oh, it's too much. There's too much excess. I didn't It didn't appear that I was asking myself if I had put the wrong sleeve pattern in this car, baby, I grabbed the wrong sleep. But this is on in absolutely perfectly which I'm even quite surprised. A All right now, the best thing I'm going to show you is that you you have to remove the bias tape. You don't keep it in just going to double check sleeve. Look at that. Look at how perfectly that sleeve has gone in there. You see that? That's absolutely amazing. Yes. Has that perfect little turn over the top? No puckers, no puckers. Look not a single full by easing it in and using the bis tape. It's a couture technique which I hope will serve you very well. I do have to remove the bias tape. Now, if you've sewn right on the scene that you put the sleeve in when you put the biased a bond . So first you put the bias tape on right. And if you've stuck to that scene when you've put the sleeve in the garment, then just cut away the bias tape on one side of that and just cut away the bias tape. The bias just comes right away from the garment because it's biased tape and the threads are going crisscross. They come away very, very easily. So the whole idea is that cut cut close to the barn estate on the one side of the bias tape . Okay like that, then you pull the other one away, see how that just comes right away. So the biased eight just pulls out. I mean, people might be thinking like, you know, it's a lot of work, but honestly, the benefit of putting it in this way is worth the moment. A few minutes that it takes for you to remove it. I know. When I was a student, I was surprised that we had to take it out. I was like, You have to take it out. That sucks. But now I'm used it for years. It's not a problem. I love it. It's honestly the best way to take it out. These moments when you're sewing the This is the Zen off sewing. When you get into that space where you're so deeply involved in what you're doing, that you get to a moment of incredible piece and the rest of the world has dropped away. See, that's not bad. And press your beautiful sleeve with a sleep with a ham such a benefit to use a ham, then you'll be done. You can say I know couture techniques sleeves now. 8. Hams are for Sleeves update: So this is your ham wool on one side. Got caught and on the other you're going to use, it's got a slim end and it's got a wider end. You start with the wider end and I place it to the just on the edge of the ironing board. So I put my sleeve over there. You can see how beautiful I see that there's no gathers in there with this bias tape technique. I'm just gonna make sure that I turn the seam allowance. You can see if I press that with my finger here, that seam allowance is pushed to the inside. And then you want to have your iron. Is that not beautiful book? That it's absolutely perfect. You have your iron. I just would like to tell you a little bit about the about ironing and pressing. So ironing is a term that a housewife use to use to explain that she might be ironing her husband's shirts. This was what I remembered when I was a little girl that I helped my mother. She taught me how to iron. But when I studied fashion design, they taught us that pressing is what you use when you're doing couture techniques, which is creating your own garments that you've made using the finest technique. So when you choose an iron, when you're going to be doing home sewing, you really want to find an iron that allows you to have the most amount of steam. So I found one called whirlwind tour. I think it cost caused me a lot of money, like maybe a $150 or something. But it has a beautiful dial in here for the amount of steam. And a doll along the top. That tells me how much steam. And because I'm going to be using just the steam to press this sleeve at the head that I've turned up the dials to the highest amount of steam, going to give it a little bit of a shock to see if I can't get it to give me a puff of steam. So I know it's ready. Well, you can see the beauty of the of that method. It's got absolutely no gathers. It's just perfect. You have this perfect little roll over the top. And now I'm going to steam it. Which means I'm just going to press the iron. Just press the on you're kind of on the edge of it on the side. So you're you're basically just going to place the iron here and let the steam work gently, put it on the top, give it some steam, you press it, you lift it up, you put it down. Let the steam to the work. Don't really Robert anywhere. You just put it up and put it down. Never rub it back and forth. If you rub it back and forth, what happens is that you can create a sheen on fabric that you won't get out. So the whole idea of pressing means you let the steam do the work. You put the iron at the spot, turn on the steam, lifted up, you move it over. You put it here, let it steam. You put it here. You let it steam. So you don't rub the area with the face of the iron. All right, so that's the difference between ironing and pressing. And this is the beauty of the bias method, couture technique, sleeve insertion. Try it and let me know how much you'd love it. Hi, I just wanted to show you my beautiful binder that I use to put all of my samples in. So my construction samples are in here and the lessons that I have created for you to sew with. So here I have a sheet that shows me the techniques of what this pieces. So for example, this is my, my sheet that has the instruction beside it. And the sample of a Welt seem and a double well, scene. And this is how I put it in my binder. It's just an example of a beautiful book that you can create with your samples that I hope you'll do. Switch instruments. Instruments.