The Art of Keum Boo - Hammered Gold Drop Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

The Art of Keum Boo - Hammered Gold Drop Earrings

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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16 Lessons (1h 11m)
    • 1. The Art of Keum Boo - Hammered Gold Drop Earrings

      4:14
    • 2. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - materials

      2:12
    • 3. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - equipment

      4:58
    • 4. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 5. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - cutting the discs

      4:38
    • 6. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the silver

      6:53
    • 7. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the gold

      2:47
    • 8. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - the keum boo process

      6:21
    • 9. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - removing excess gold

      2:55
    • 10. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - texturing

      6:31
    • 11. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - shaping

      3:36
    • 12. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the earwires

      2:16
    • 13. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - soldering

      9:12
    • 14. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - finishing the earwires

      4:36
    • 15. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - a matt finish

      3:36
    • 16. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - final thoughts

      2:53

About This Class

This class continues my series on Keum Boo, an ancient Korean technique that literally translates as “attached gold”. In the first class I taught you how the technique works and kept the design fairly simple so that we could concentrate on process of attaching the gold - this time we're adding in soldering and hammering!

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Soldering has to be carried out carefully on Keum Boo pieces so that you do not overheat the design and encourage the gold to bond too much to the gold as this can allow it to "sink in" to the silver, losing it's bright golden yellow. Most importantly, you have to give the gold some aftercare once the soldering is done - and this class will teach you how to do that to help you create a gorgeous pair of earrings. I've also added a hammered texture to the class project to show you that the gold is thick enough to take a texture beautifully without splitting.

Keum Boo bonds 24k gold and fine silver together, with no solder involved, just heat and pressure. It is a strong permanent bond, hundreds of times thicker than gold plating. As you can see from the class project a little gold goes a long way, making this a great way of adding the richness of gold to your jewellery without breaking the bank. It is a magical technique, and one that I never tire of teaching! I love the look on my students’ faces when they realise that their gold design has bonded beautifully onto the silver.

Future classes in this series will show you how combine soldering, forging and texturing with Keum Boo - and will also show you how to use even the smallest of left-over pieces of foil to create beautiful designs!

Transcripts

1. The Art of Keum Boo - Hammered Gold Drop Earrings: Hello. My name's join Tinley, I'm with your designer and tutor from the South Coast UK are welcome to the Hammond Gold Drops Earrings class. This class is the second in a Siri's that covers the combo technique, a beautiful, magical technique that bonds 24 karat gold to find silver on it is a fantastic way of adding that right luxury of 24 carat gold to your silver jewelry without it costing your fortune. The gold for us I prefer to use is quite sick. Andi is much, much thicker than a gold plating on is a really strong bond. Gold plating is always just sitting on the surface, the silver on, but you know, rubs off really easily and has to be renewed. Crumb. Bo Goldwyn's technique has done properly with a good quality. A 24 karat gold foil last for many, many years. I've got pieces typing using teaching examples in my workshops. For many years on, they are still as bright and beautiful as ever. This class is a variation on one of those class for Texas. I keep showing my students this pair of earrings has got very simple leaf shapes that have been cut out to Sterling silver. But in this video class, is that so? In the shapes out, I decided to keep it even simpler on did used disc set of being cut out using my discounter . Of course, if you put fire to cut shapes, sounds a silver, then please do go for it. Make your earrings whatever shape he would like it is. The techniques that uncovering this car set are particularly important on what I'm focusing on here is that you can hammer the gold and the silver after they being bonded together without stealing the gold out so much this you start seeing the silver underneath. It is a really nice like it's saying a really nice thick layer of gold. I'm also going to be applying a little bit of a dome shape to the metal again to show you that you can do so on in this class. Unlike the Golden Butterfly Pendant class which was the 1st 1 in this Kwan Bo Siris in this class, I'm also going to be carrying out some soldering. Now you do have to be careful when you're soldering pieces with combo on them because you don't want to overheat. But remember, it is the combination of heat and pressure that balls the gold and the silver together. So if you were to overheat, agree quite why do not overheat. The gold has more more bonded and is less obviously that before bright golden yellow. So you do have to be careful not to overheat, but which in particular I want to show you in this class is something you have to do to treat the gold after you have sold it a little bit of extra care to make sure that it is most definitely burnished and bonded firmly in place. So that is one of the other tips that I'm going to show you in this. If you haven't already watched the golden butterfly pendant class than I do, recommend that you go back and do that first because it will go through with you how combo actually works. And I always find that knowing how something works helps you to get it right, but also just important. Three. How was he to put mistakes right when they do happen? Because they are going to happen at some point. So do go back on watch that class if you haven't already done so under the link to that in the class materials. But for now, let's get started by having a look at the equipment on the materials that you don't need to make these beautiful earrings. 2. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - materials: these are the material, so I'm going to need to make the hammered gold drop earrings. The base of the hearings are going to be made from two discs off North 20.7 millimeter sterling silver sheet. That's just a fraction under 20 gauge. You could possibly get away with silver sheets that's a little bit thinner, but because I'm going to be hammering these disks and therefore stretching them out little bit, I didn't want to start with silver. That was to thing. I still want to debt obese, a good amount of substance to the earrings. However, I wouldn't really go above no 0.9 millimeters because then you're starting to get hearings . Or maybe, but unnecessarily heavy on. I always like to make earrings that are a stronger they come possibly be, but not made of material. It's so thick that they start to become heavier and potentially uncomfortable. As usual. I'm going to be making the ear wires out off no 0.8 millimeter sterling silver around. Why that's 20 gauge wire. But of course, the most important material shown here is the gold foil. This is my favorite brand off 24 current gold foil made by the same manufacturers. Japanese manufacturers who produce art, clay and as an added bonus or gold products by this company are recycled, so this gold is reclaimed from industrial processes. It is thicker gold than other brands I've come across, which I think gives both a really nice finish and also makes it easier and stronger. Toe handle. This sheet was originally 3.555 centimeters, but as you can see, it's very being cut into some of it's really being used, and I won't need to use all that you can see here either. There will be some left over from other projects. Indeed, there be some left over for more of these different materials, enough to make maybe two or three more of these hearings. 3. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - equipment: These are most the tours that we don't need to make the earrings pieces that I'm going to use that you can't see here are soldier equipment, which you'll see in the next section. Andi, my ultralight kill that I used for heating up for the combo process that shaves separately except a little bit too big to fit in this shop. Asi can see those quite a bit of equipment for one pair of earrings. But all of the equipment that you can see here has been used. At least one video class already on will be used in many more in the future and bear in mind as well that the two more expensive piece of equipment I'm gonna be showing you the discussion. You torture like kill. There are cheaper alternatives available. So having mentioned this cutter that start with that going to using this cutter to cut out the 2 16 millimeter diameter silver disks that are going to be the starting point of the earrings on. And I've got my old hammer that I'm going to use to hit that punch. And also I'm going to use it to hit the wooden punch that goes with the domain blocks that you can now see. I'm going to give the earings of every slight curve, but I think that adds a little bit extra interests. I also gives me the opportunity to show you again how flexible and thick the gold foil coating is. What's a good to other Hamas here, The cross pain or Swiss style hammer is the one that I'm going to use to texture. The earrings were my favorite hammers and favorite textures. The round is plan ish ing hammer. I'm going to use to look a strength X to the ear wise. And whilst I'm hammering, I'm going to support my work on the steel block and the leather cushion underneath is supposed support. Still, look, I'd also keep the noise down over it. I'm going to shakthi here, wires around the stepped mandrell. But if you have a pan bow or a large nitty needle that will do the job just as well, the wire cutters obviously going to be used to cut the while for the ear wise Andi, I use the red handled flat no supplies just to finish off the shaping of the wires. I've got to needle files here. The flats needle file I'm going to use to smooth off the end of the year wires. But the rounded needle file I'm going to use to help remove right gently the excess gold from around the edge off the disks after the combo process is being carried out. When the ear was finished, I'm going to give the earrings a slightly much finished a lot of than a high polish. I'm going to use a blue radio disc, a medium great rate of this that you can see here that I use in my pendant. I will briefly show you a couple of alternatives to the radio disc when we get to that section class on the rest of the equipment that you can see is for back Womble process. The wooden coffee Steira is what I'm going to use to test that the kill has become hot enough. Andi, I've got a pair off for such and tweezers. Tell me. Hold my work on a gate. Burnish are to apply. Pressure to the gold foil is part of the process. A little pot of water that helps me to hold the foil on the gate. burner shot. You'll see that in a later section seeker that works. And I've also got a pencil so that I can just draw around the disk and pulling out how much gold phone going to need before I cut the gold foil with scissors that you can see here, which then leads be the actual like to kill to show you In the first combo class, I discussed the heat sources that you can use in the combo process. So if you haven't watched the Golden Butterfly pendant class ideas, Jesse, go back and watch that and get a little bit more insight to the heat sources. But this is my favorite. This is the ultra like to kill, holds a perfect steady temperature for Kwame Bow and does the job. 4. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings, and so pendants everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks or soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on Do they form? Nice of my balls has, I mean used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here, and I've also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly where I want it to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder start. I can't tell which melting temperature they are. The more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use of flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans. Since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to refill cigarette lighter at the back of a picture, you can see a slow cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution go to safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flames before cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that Caprock sides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - cutting the discs: The first stage of making these hearings is to cut the two silver disks. I got my lovey Dustin dis cutter. Well, I've got the 16 millimeter disc. I was going to give a lovely, really eye catching pair of earrings, but of course you could use are the sizes instead. Oh, even as I said in the introduction, you could use a completely different shape. But, uh, using this cutter is always great for making slightly quick a pair of earrings. You don't have to sort them out. Um, remember, this is really nice. It was discussed er, shown by the facts that the edges nice and crisp. The cutting face we'll see if I can turn it around is actually slightly sloped in that direction. Which means it doesn't try to punch out the whole shape at the same time. If the cut starts here and it spreads its way around the disks Onda also, the fact that these two halves off the cutter sits nice and flat up against the piece of silver that's I'm cutting through is also another signs is really good quality cutter. My first job is to it's up slightly. We're through Andi you can see from the disk is being cut out here one of the advantages of using such good quality customer, especially apart from rather the fact that the edges that this really nicely finished, is it. You can make the best use of your sheet quite. I even got to see that bitter silver there, but there is a tying a bit left. But you can see just how close are cops the edge. So what I might do is sold it a slight ankle so that you can see what I'm doing on the camera. But I like to be able to see the edges of the silver through the hole and then moved silver just so the edges are just out of sight. Andi, I know that when I've done that, then I am closely itches as I can be without going over them. I don't know why should fourth place is packed down, Justin, provide some shims of different, um, thicknesses that you can put in the other side so the top half doesn't tip over a tool by pushing those putting the silver slightly so that the edges are ever so slightly out of you . I noticed when making the best use a sheet of glass become punch tracing. You have a right down. Simple is that and there's the first this. See, for a pair of errands I need to. So let's repeat that she wants sing. I did forget just on what she can see, how close are going again. But one thing I did forget to say is that like also before I started talking to you, I lubricated the punch little bit sister that again Now just show you Sicily because it comes with the present. She just pushing it around like that. It is enough that helps just obscenely protect everything. Helps to keep your tools sharper, crisper for longer. So one two discs cut, making best use of the sheeps. Really nice, efficient Use the sheet. So my next job is to prepare those ready for the combo process 6. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the silver: There are a few different reasons why I juicy you Sterling silver in these combo projects, despite the facts that the combo only works when you've got fine silver bonding to the 24 gold. The 1st 1 is you are far more likely, I think, to have sterling silver than fine silver already in your studio. Andi. Also that sterling silver is a little bit stronger than fine silver after the copper is added to the silver. In order to strengthen it, However, it doesn't mean that you do need to do a bit of preparation to Sony Silver to create a fine silver surface. Andi that is done that through a process called Depletion Building, which, if you have heated your silver up quint shit, popped it in the pickle. Then you have actually already started to carry out depletion building. This is only going through it very quickly. If you want a longer with this and have a look at the Golden Butterfly pendant class, it's a very simple process. It's just one that is quite repetitive, and you do have to push a little bit of time aside for it, so sometimes it's actually best eyes more efficient for the best way to say it. Teoh go to the process with several pieces of silver at one time, rather, as I'm doing here just for one pair of earrings. So, quite simply, I am heating up the silver. Andi, I'm only heating it up until I get a nice bloom of oxygen ization formed on the surface. That oxidation member is the copper oxides. It's the copper content in silver reacting heat auction flame cause the opposite ization. Andi, in order to make sure this I don't go too far, Andi overheats silver. I just applied a Sharpie mark. We'll come back to that in a bit. If your design is very symmetrical on do you might get confused about which is definitely fun to different in the back of the silver because, well, they look the same. It doesn't really matter. Then it's so quite a good idea just to turn the silver over and heat back a bit as well, because as the back was against the soldering block, it would have been protected a little bit, too. Might not have got quite a much oxidation. That's a case of question popping in the pickle to heat up. And once it comes out the pickle, I give silver a little bit of a rinse and then dry it. Now it is important, I think, to dry it, because otherwise, if you were to use your flame to dry the water, it could leave marks behind. That could add a little bit of confusion as to whether that markets, maybe organization or whether it's such a little bit of dirt. They noticed that this time is I heat up business organization. And that's because the pickle has already removed some of the copper content from the surface of vast majority of the copper content. But we need to keep going through this process of heating, quenching, pickling, convincing, drying, heating, etcetera, etcetera until there is a really lovely paperwhite finished silver, so come in for a bit closer to show you Now, Onda, at this stage, I've actually heated up the silver seven times. I find it takes maybe eight or nine times, usually to go through the process. I don't know whether you're going to be able to tell on your computer screens, but to my eyes that is, and ever so slightly color changed between when I've got the flame on the silver compared to when I take the flame off the silver. So it's hardly any organization formed, but there was still a tiny hint of it. We want to get to the stage where there is no color difference. There's no nothing changing whether you flame on the silver off the silver on. That is when you've got that really nice paper white finish. And that is the stage we've got to now. So these pieces are no ready for the combo process. And at this point, I'm just now that will cool down, not going to quench your people again because they don't need it with the walk citation. Now just a little cool down on once they're cool, I'm going to try and be careful to only pick them up by the edges, because if I was to put a finger grease or dirt onto the silver surface and that could inhibit the bonding of the gold, no mention a Sharpie pen at the start of this section Black Sharpie ink? Or should I say in the UK Black Sharply Inc just happens to burn off at the exact temperature, Um, that we need to create some organization and as you saw the silver gets and lighter and lighter night as we go through the process on. As it gets lighter, they become slightly easier to accidentally overheat your silver, seeing maybe teached a bit longer to get some oxidation. It sometimes rather easy to overheated, especially this saltiness process. So having a Sharpie mark on the silver and then knowing that you only heat until the shop you Mark has gone can be a good safety check. However, I have been told recently that the chemical makeup of the black Sharpie ink in the United States has changed, likely on Duthie pens. They're no longer completely burn off at the right temperature. So your case of you in the United States then just heat up until most of the mark has gone until there's just a ghost to the mark remaining on. The more you carry out this process, the easier it will be a few to recognize it when you have reached the correct temperature. I'm not to go too far your heating, so my pieces of silver are now ready. Let's get on with the Qanbar process 7. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the gold: it's worth taking a bit of time to plan out the gold foil before you cut it out after you don't really want to waste any of it. So I've carefully put the two silver disks, prepares silver disks on the foil. Andi just going to use my pants soldiers to Very likely because I don't want to put dents into the gold unnecessarily. Just very lightly. George around. That was that line for it. Okay, um, I'm actually extending past a little bit. I would not recommend cutting out a circle of 60 millimeters in diameter, which in theory, should be exactly same as thesis silver disks and then trying to apply that because chances are, as you apply the golden as you burnish its horn, them would be a little slippage you'd end up with maybe a site present on the edge of the circle not actually being covered by the gold. So I think this is far better to cut. Um, very simple shape that would extend past the edges of the disc a little bit. And then she himself right down against. So just going to Pope. Actually, I've really got the kill. He has been heating up. So I'm gonna pop those both. Well, there, you see? Let me finish heating up, and then I'm just going to He's my sis's Just to cut through lips Was your gold get used for another project? You guys. So there's my to go to squeamish shapes that one of the tracing paper. Okay, we'll come out. He took that one away back in the envelope and keep it safe. So those are the two piece gold foils I'm going to use to decorate my silver, So let's get on with putting it in place. 8. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - the keum boo process: This is the best bit of the class actually putting the golden place for the quant bone place. Um, so just get a check to see whether everything is Fortunoff yet. Just using the end off the, uh, the coffee store. Yeah, just you can see that little bit of dark mark eso that hitting charring both on the blasted and on the edge of silver on. That's a good indicator that everything is at the right temperature. So I put that to one side. For now, I was trying to check on the edge of a silver. Rather are actually on the silver itself. Could I don't want anything charring there on the silver's itself, Teoh inhibit the bonding of the gold. So I'm just gonna take one of these The time on bond way I prefer to pick up the gold when the silver is already hot is just to dumping the end of my gate, Manisha complete all the way into it. Now we'll bring this fort, show you about the gold foil here. Just going to go pick it up just like so on. And when I've already got the silver at the right temperature on the kill I like to do. It's just look almost straight down it. It bit of a civil war to drive on. Then it was leaving my hand over on and place it on top of the gold. Andi, some doing, is just starting in the centre and quite gently at first, start burnishing across across the other way. If you start furnishing too much too quickly, then you can see the foil salts to call over. Anyway. You know if I'm being gentle, so if you're being quick but more forceful with it, that's going to happen even more. On the gold for put crumple up could move a little bit, including 40 problems. So it's far better to see Move it out quite systematically before we even start going all the way across. So now I'm just kind of gently hold it in place. I mean, sure, if I could feel it starting to move, then just can't touch the tweezers to the top. That's being gentle bacillus they want to do. It's cool, scrunching, paying extra special attention through the edge of the disc because if there's going to be any point where the foil coach, the court or lifted off. That's at the edge. You have to see now nice and smooth. Such disk is that gold is and you can see the edges of a very prominent now. So I don't like leaving us on here longer than I need to going to pick that up on. I can't place it, but the steel broke. I like using still block because it's draws the heat away from silver. This helps everything to cool down, but quicker. 15. The burnish bonus. You wet again. Pick up second pace, which is no one teach. You picked up sometimes like Samos, Asai say, sometimes were sold. The most difficult thing is actually getting a soldier. Sometimes things picking up the gold. So second chance to see it It's a special carefully to look down right down from the top. But it's I've you to make sure that I can't see Silver seeking out from underneath the goal , which is I place it on top. I remember. I cut. Sees a little bit bigger, just okay. Okay, fool. Just brushing. It was I'm paying her for attention to the edges. Right then. Time to unplug. Kill that. That called out on bond. That's thes called owns, but longer. Anderson's they have. I will show you how to quickly and easily remove the excess gold foil. 9. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - removing excess gold: If you seen the Golden Butterfly pendant, then you'll see me do this already but rather satisfying toe watch. Um, so I have here my pot off off cuts off silver foil, some really, really tiny, some of them far more usable size. Then we're going to get used eventually, whether it's on a condo project or whether it's being melted down on, um, reformed into a different shape. I've also got the rounded needle fire on so going to do It's basically used that to cut the gold foil at the edges. Sort it is. Just hold it. It's about a 45 degree angle. Would find Swedish angle, um, onside the rim of the disc and then just sweep across on what happens is that the foil starts we cut at that point. OK, let me get looks. Yes, did onto the boat. Do you find this one satisfying to do? There we go. This 1st 1 number two. - There we go. So all those pieces have ended up in here. And then I used for something eventually. But the next sense I want to do is give those lovely disks. Hey, uh, just lovely hammered texture. Andi I'm doing that in this project to show you that the gold is thick enough to withstand that hammering and also is a reminder how you use how much has changed the shape of your silver. 10. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - texturing: the texting hammers I'm using is my favorite cross peeling or twist on hammer. So one straight edge, and that's going to give a lovely texture of lines going across. You can use a some having several different ways, the lines radiating out for the middle, or is I'm doing here, the lines going across. So maybe the lines in a bit of a hatch pattern. But using did I'm going cross? Because I prefer it like that. But also, as I just said as a reminder off how you can use a hammer to change the shape of your silver metal moves at right angles to the head of a hammer so right angles to the rounded head, using every single direction. Well, it's integration like that on DSO. There's very little changed to the oval shape, but right angles the head off across being hammer ISS that way. So there's a stretching out. So what you'll be able to see is this circle stretched out a bit into an oval. The more silver there is more material, the more obvious that stretching is so. If I could use a 0.9 millimeters thin, the stretching, which be even Mawr obvious and 1.7 such a reason why it is important to make sure that your two discs are from the same thickness of material. So don't go get two different pieces of scrap left over from other projects. And, as you always do and cut to dissent, make certain that you are cutting discs out our same thickness. So get started most difficult bit in this is not hitting your fingers. We have some. - Yes , I'm happy with that texture. So if you could hear any rattling, it's because some I've got killed just here hope the last plate on the top was ruffling. But, um, that's what that funny noise was. We can see the difference that that has made just that simple. Hamri took no even a couple of minutes. How simple. Hammering has not only put a beautiful eye catching texture into the gold without breaking through the gold finds the silver underneath because it is such a thick layer. But it is also change the shape it stretched out that overall. So I'm gonna do the same to the 2nd 1 but when I've done the second well, I'm going to have to check their sizing next to each other. If one has turned out a little bit smaller than the other, then I have to do a little bit more hammering on a smaller one and check them again to get into much. - The first is first for kept pointing to stop and have a look to see what the texture was. A Z even was. I like it on DNA now. The scene was they all? As much as I can make it the same size, I think the 1st 1 is ever so ever so slightly bigger, not even a millimeter longer, but enough to make me want to do a little bit more hammering on this one. There's always I haven't made that one bigger. No, there we go. So I'm happy with that fit that much so really lovely texture we go beautiful texture. I have said that the hammering hasn't gone broken through the gold foil, a tall even though I wasn't exactly light with the hammers definite contact up, tapping away quite nicely. Eso the go foil is thick enough to withstand that really well on its keeping, both a lovely texture on a lovely shape to those disks, but I want to shape the metal. Blakemore. I went to give him a bit of a curve, so that is the next stage. But the cross. 11. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - shaping: Now, at this stage, the class forget that there is gold on the silver disks because the dome ing is exactly same as any other domain you've done just with silver, or even just with copper. So same standard rules apply. If you are doing a piece that has 100 texture as in place here, they make sure that you using wooden punches are not metal ones because metal ones, which smooths out there, would act as a hammer. Essentially, Andi, smooth out belongs helps the texture that you just put in. Secondly, don't try Andi shape or dome the piece of metal too far too quickly. So don't say, Oh, if it's in there, I'm gonna do it in there because you might be lucky. And it might turn out really nicely, really neatly. However, the further you get once the metal to move in anyone time, the more likely it is may be slipping the cup in there for not reshaped evenly where it might even crinkle up a little bit. So it is always better to start in a, um, bigger dish. Wish I forgive you. A shallower shape on, then moved on through us in smaller dishes until you get the shaping that you want on the third role. ISS for when you making earrings, What have you do toe one due to the other? So what? My first lovely golden oval in the bottom There, I've got two different sized punches. So for the bigger condition continues, the bigger of the to hold. It's nice, Andi, Century upright Mohammed. Here you'll hear the hammer. It's just that a shot that's just put that one up there. Just given ever such a slight curve. I mean, not new, much more to it than that. That's really nice. I do find that doing is just add cycle about extra interest. It's worse doing okay so that stunned by that goes into a smaller one going to that one. He is the same. The same domain punch, though we find once we start getting don't as a curved, they sit a little bit better. I compare it to to that one groups trying to get to Sydney next to each other. You can see just a little bit more curve to it. That's what you are, the nice that is saying to that one, and I don't think I'm going to do omit any further. I just wanted a little bit of a curve just to re brain to life nicely. So that's the main part of my earrings. Done. They know. Need Samir Wise. 12. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the earwires: I've cut to six centimeter links off the 60.8 to murder me to, say silver wire longer to use that to make the ear wires. I don't usually go for it. Wasit Only six centimeters. Most of my usual, about 4.5 5 centimeters. But these hearings are a bit larger than the majority of the ones that I make. So just making the year wise a bit bigger just to keep, um, that's just keep scale. The things really what I like to do is to hammer one end of each year. Why is your scene in any of the other drop hearing classes that I've got if you've watched any of those? I liked a hammer to flare out the end so that there is a, ah, wider surface area joint between the two pieces. It's on soldering together, makes you a stronger soldier. Join us. I think it looks nicer than just having a around stick soldered onto the back. So I'm using my clashing or, uh, around Hamma. I'm not just I think I got the waste like I was going to focus well, much as well Get this into practice way was shine on there as well. Okay, I seek in cities is flat out a little bit used to the same to this one I would like to do. He's just sweet brown. Just turn the air while over two different outside as well, just to make sure that that is looking as neat as it possibly could be. So to Iwas ready to Okay, they're talking to you. To itwas ready to soldier on to the back of those hearings. 13. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - soldering: time to solder these ear wires in place. Sense were nearly done with the earrings. I put them on a soldering blockers, Turn that one over. Just left it like that to prove that it wants. Wants the ones with the gold on them so that I'm just going to sew it. Waas There, there. I've also got fired Brick. So pointing out because they're not gonna be exactly easy to see. Um, there on the two pieces off Easy, soldier. So going to do is dip where the iwas in the flux hold that against once one of the bits of solder turned gently melt that bit of solder in place on the ear y. So now the soldier is exactly where I want it to be, So I can then hold the ear, were in place on the back of the hearing. So I'm going to do just lift it up a little bit, apply some heat because that's so the hearing itself is the biggest piece of Marshall's ago . Might lead the longest with they flame. And then, just when everything's close to solving temperatures lower the air while back again, and Cameron heating to remote with soldier and join the two pieces. The trick, as always, is to remove the heat while keeping the war still until the soldier has lost its bright silver molten look at has gone side and then you know that it's one piece of metal rather than two separate pieces. However, before I do that, I want to show you that I have my gate burnish er very close to hand. Andi, I would explain why, after I have soldered to the first here, why in place? So my knees up again pretty beating. So just flow. Move the heat and keep everything still. And then I want to show you why. But what the burnished close to hand can you see as I'm Rufus about to the light as well as the lines texture There are some dots as well. There are simple Oh, you're reckless driving really in your pimples. Little bottles on surface on what they actually are is that no matter how well you think you have burnished, there were always going to be some teeny tiny you talk tt tiny little spaces where you haven't punished as well. If you thought Onda as you heat everything up. Those become a lot clearer because Theo the air underneath, um, expands with the heat that's expands. It pushes the gold out. So don't worry. It happened. It's It's through the soldier after the way, so I don't doesn't interfere with this state. It's normal. You haven't done anything wrong. What you need to do. He's burnish. Sit back down again, Mandy Facing it makes you bonding even stronger. So I think of this as being a quality control stage, really making certain that absolutely every bit of gold is really, really nicely burnished down. Now, when you've got a textured piece like this, it takes a little bit longer because you need to make certain that you are, um, pushing the gold nicely into that hammer. Techs just want to move this around, but so I can burnish from a different angle. So why might she, using the tip of the burn Isha to make sure that I am burnishing nicely into into the lines textures put on and again, I'm making certain that I, um, burnishing reading. I see it. That room was, or take advantage of this and a church really nicely because it's still the room that is the most vulnerable part. So that's so nicely done. Yeah, you'll notice that I've done this before. I have quenching. That's why I've been handling the earring with tools rather than with my fingers. If you quench, then that quenching makes a gold go hard again and you won't be onto bona shit down. But there is always at least one person out of the eight age my workshops who among pair of earrings or pendant, if they will forget that all they have all you have to do if you forget it, forget to burnish again before you before you quench is just a very gently dry theme hearing or pendant. Whatever it is off again, heat it up gently again. Remember, you know, heating it up soldering temperature because you don't want to risk free mounting a sold on your ear y or bail. Whatever it is, just heat up again, just a little bit on burnished because you'll find that heating up just a little bit. What soften the gold enough that you can get everything burnished down is also gets the right temperature for that burnishing tooth and warned the golden place so that one is done . I know you got to see me doing that all over again. Say that. So don't just the stick. The year one in the flux. Easiest. Waving a flux in place. Melt soldier in place. And then after soldering, burnish that back down again, You might find that you have more little bubbles than I do. Or fewer however many you have. Just please make sure that you punished more about Donna. Come when we can. Just doing extra burnishing, sir. Pages. Okay, Happy with that one as well. So I'm taking that's hot anymore. But someone quite shit just makes somebody certain on important both in the pickle to clean our four little oxygen ization. There is on that some to finish off those it wise. 14. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - finishing the earwires: time to finish off these ear wise because at the moment, say look like two little golden spoons, which is very nice. But it's not the look that some I wanted, Um, so I'm doing. First of all, it's just double checking that see, with those ear wise are still the same length. Because of those, I come into the same lengths. Andi. The earrings are the same size that this bottle of the same size it's not unusual as you hammer to legislate, lengthen one more than the other, or to solder one little bit further down from the other on. There is half a millimeter difference. Drink, too. So I'm just gonna trim off. Use the why Cuts is to trim off that extra length. And then I'm going to Sorry, folks. Get there we go. Um, just going to use the I need a file. She smoothed off and you see, is I'm telling that round I might be filing in the same direction, but I'm actually turning the hearing mounts. I'm no find the same little bit a while. Always use your fingers as much as your eyes. Just check everything is nice and smooth. Your fingers are far more sensitive. Much better checking. Okay, good. Next thing to do is use the set. Mandrell on getting it all. What have you chosen to use to bend the wire? Right back on itself? Second, nice links. 1st 1 always goes quite quickly. 2nd 1 we have to bend a little bit. Double check stuffing too long, but it's to roll up the back of the mandal. Is this front section of wire? That's I need to bend around a little bit more Still a tiny But Ciro let me die. That's better Now then, when I put it back with Mandel is just the back. So I need to bend back in place. Two things you need to do now, 1st 1 Yes. I want to strengthen that section there so that the benj doesn't pull with fathers likely toe pull and twist out of shape. So I'm just gonna harm hammer This front section the battle of the brass lead on chocolate killed again so they can see that catching the light that's hammered a made this past spring you, But much, much stronger. The last thing I like to do is use the flatter nose place to put the wire ends so that they are what replies position just to the end. Go see the wits of the pliers and just twist backwards slightly just to prove that, Why back a little bit? I think it gives a nice finished touch. But it also knows that the hearings last night for years because the year watch he has changed direction to come all the way out to the holes your is. So don't you see that those are earrings Now, however, they need a little bit of finishing off, not to give them a high polish, but to give them up for a soft spot in look, so we'll show you how I do that. 15. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - a matt finish: all that remains for me to do is to give these earrings a slightly much finish injuries. I prefer to give a match. Finished my combo jewelry, Roths and a high polish is I find if you give up high punished or something, you see the shy in the Polish. You don't so clearly see the two different concert. For me, one of the appeals of Colombo jewelry is that you do see both the silver and the gold. So for that reason, I find that I prefer a slightly match finish. Andi, as I said, beginning to class, I'm going to be using a medium grade or a blue radio disc in my pendant drill to provide that soft Matal satiny finish. But there are a couple of cheaper alternatives that you can use. Don't worry. Don't have to have a pendant drill or adrenal. Um, this one you'll see me use on the Golden Butterfly pendant. 12. Sharp Porter. Bigger cars. Rather, um, it's a brave I find Sunday part sold by anyone that supplies metal play are nothing of a really nice finish. If you want a slightly stronger matte finish, then a soft y brush couldn't do the job as well. But if I showed you something, had lots time in first class, I'm going to show you this one. This time I'm also going to use It's just ticket you waas a bit of a college as well. But you see how use in front Not only does it have a really nice finish to the gold, but it also removes any burnishing marks that are left on us. It's quite subtle because I think it really does make a difference. So it's a dangerous one turn. By the way, combo pieces in, um, tumble. I wouldn't So has a lovely such and finish I saw finish on both of those earrings, so and now I'm ready to be for 12 for that close up. 16. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - final thoughts: well, will you look at that beautiful, bright gold on those earrings by very simple shape by simple texture as well. But the combination off the texture on that beautiful, bright gold makes us really, really lovely pair of earrings. Now, although I've used my discussed sir to form the basis of the hearings As I said in the introduction, you could use any shape you like. You only limit really is your imagination. So you could soar Simple leaf shape. How, as I've done these airings I use is an example in my workshops that I carry out to the studio or you could cut out a more complex shape. It really is up to you with the project. This class is covering the whole of that shape with gold foil niece inning off the excess so that you have got a really nice need and should you saved or the gold to use for something else applying a texture, hammered texture and also carrying out some soldering to get you used to how you have to burnish the gold back down again. That exercise said that quality control to make sure that that gold he really is firmly burnished down and family bonds is in place. Something else you could do. Going back to the leaf shaped earrings is adding an antique patina. Something for the oxidize, patina, toothy earrings. Because did you know that there's one thing that the patina will not effect on? That is gold. That's one of the reasons why, if you would come Pinterest search for combo jewelry. A lot of it has been given that antiqued patina because it really does make the gold pop. So something else you can do to adapt this project to give a very different look, maybe from the same design is add a little bit of patina to the earrings on. And if you have a look for the color, your silver class it again, I will link to in class materials. It will go through with you how to use that patina, how to add it to your jewelry as always. If you have any questions, please do leave from intercourse. A special section on. I will get back to you as soon as I can. I am having looking forward to seeing the earrings that you come up with, how you adapt, projected to make your own pronouncing Thank you for watching