The Art of Keum Boo - Hammered Gold Drop Earrings

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

Play Speed
  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x
16 Lessons (1h 11m)
    • 1. The Art of Keum Boo - Hammered Gold Drop Earrings

      4:14
    • 2. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - materials

      2:12
    • 3. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - equipment

      4:58
    • 4. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 5. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - cutting the discs

      4:38
    • 6. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the silver

      6:53
    • 7. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the gold

      2:47
    • 8. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - the keum boo process

      6:21
    • 9. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - removing excess gold

      2:55
    • 10. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - texturing

      6:31
    • 11. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - shaping

      3:36
    • 12. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - preparing the earwires

      2:16
    • 13. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - soldering

      9:12
    • 14. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - finishing the earwires

      4:36
    • 15. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - a matt finish

      3:36
    • 16. Hammered Gold Drop Earrings - final thoughts

      2:53

About This Class

This class continues my series on Keum Boo, an ancient Korean technique that literally translates as “attached gold”. In the first class I taught you how the technique works and kept the design fairly simple so that we could concentrate on process of attaching the gold - this time we're adding in soldering and hammering!

e2162b1b

Soldering has to be carried out carefully on Keum Boo pieces so that you do not overheat the design and encourage the gold to bond too much to the gold as this can allow it to "sink in" to the silver, losing it's bright golden yellow. Most importantly, you have to give the gold some aftercare once the soldering is done - and this class will teach you how to do that to help you create a gorgeous pair of earrings. I've also added a hammered texture to the class project to show you that the gold is thick enough to take a texture beautifully without splitting.

Keum Boo bonds 24k gold and fine silver together, with no solder involved, just heat and pressure. It is a strong permanent bond, hundreds of times thicker than gold plating. As you can see from the class project a little gold goes a long way, making this a great way of adding the richness of gold to your jewellery without breaking the bank. It is a magical technique, and one that I never tire of teaching! I love the look on my students’ faces when they realise that their gold design has bonded beautifully onto the silver.

Future classes in this series will show you how combine soldering, forging and texturing with Keum Boo - and will also show you how to use even the smallest of left-over pieces of foil to create beautiful designs!