The Art of Keum Boo - Golden Butterfly Pendant | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

The Art of Keum Boo - Golden Butterfly Pendant

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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13 Lessons (1h 28m)
    • 1. The Art of Keum Boo - Golden Butterfly Pendant

      2:28
    • 2. Golden Butterfly Pendant - what is Keum Boo

      4:21
    • 3. Golden Butterfly Pendant - materials

      4:14
    • 4. Golden Butterfly Pendant - equipment

      5:53
    • 5. Golden Butterfly Pendant - soldering equipment

      2:35
    • 6. Golden Butterfly Pendant - heat sources

      11:31
    • 7. Golden Butterfly Pendant - planning your design

      4:17
    • 8. Golden Butterfly Pendant - preparing the sterling silver

      18:09
    • 9. Golden Butterfly Pendant - applying the foil

      16:48
    • 10. Golden Butterfly Pendant - removing excess foil

      4:03
    • 11. Golden Butterfly Pendant - drilling

      2:02
    • 12. Golden Butterfly Pendant - finishing the pendant

      8:26
    • 13. Golden Butterfly Pendant - final thoughts

      3:20

About This Class

This class is an introduction to Keum Boo, an ancient Korean technique that literally translates as “attached gold”.

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The technique bonds 24k gold and fine silver together, with no solder involved, just heat and pressure. It is a strong permanent bond, hundreds of times thicker than gold plating. As you can see from the class project a little gold goes a long way, making this a great way of adding the richness of gold to your jewellery without breaking the bank. It is a magical technique, and one that I never tire of teaching! I love the look on my students’ faces when they realise that their gold design has bonded beautifully onto the silver.

I have kept the project for this class to a simple design so that we can concentrate on the technique itself, and I will take you through how and why Keum Boo works together with the equipment that you will need. Future classes in this series will show you how combine soldering, forging and texturing with Keum Boo - and will also show you how to use even the smallest of left-over pieces of foil to create beautiful designs!

Transcripts

1. The Art of Keum Boo - Golden Butterfly Pendant: my name's Tim. I'm a jewelry designer, a shooter from the South Coast UK on Welcome to the Golden Butterfly Pendant House. This plus is the first year Siris on Kwame Bo. It is an introduction to the technique of combo on a combo literally translates as a touched gold. It is an ancient Korean technique that uses 24 current gold foil on a surface of fine silver Onda combination of heat and pressure. Bond the two metals together in a way that is truly beautiful on a fantastic way of adding a luxury trench four karat gold to your jewelry without breaking about in this class, I'm going to explain to you what combo actually is a little bit about the science behind it . Promise, just a little bit not going to give your science that Tunis class, and I'm also going to show you the basic tools that you're going to need as well. Very many of the chores ice, but you already have. Either you join making kit or maybe in your kid, your supplies tools to do with other crops. However, what you will need is a heat source on. I would go through with you the two main choices of heat source that you have available to you on the pros and cons of. As I said, Kwan Bo is a bond between 24 character gold find silver, the two metals in a pure state. But I'm actually going to be making this pendant out of sterling silver. So as part of the class, I'm also going to explain to you how to prepare sewing silver to make it fit for yes, for this particular technique. And then, of course, I'm going to show you that much technique itself. So if you're ready to get started on, add some beautiful bright gold to your silver jewelry, then let's have a look at the technical side of it. Why? It actually works on the tools, equipment and materials that we're going to need for the project. 2. Golden Butterfly Pendant - what is Keum Boo: translates for Korean as a touched gold on is a technique, a beautiful technique, one of my favorites that uses 24 karat gold to decorate. Find silver, and it does so without any soldering or heaven forbid and glue. What you need is your metals to get the correct temperature toe age. The process with burnishing to apply some pressure to the metals on your metals also must be clean if at any point when you're carrying out combo, the gold foil is not bonding to the silver, then it is one of thes three factors that is at fault. This is not quite how it should be. Either you're not applying enough pressure or your metals are not the right temperature or they are not clean enough. And for experience if you carried out your preparation carefully, it is the temperature that is usually a key here, and shortly I'm going to be showing you the two main sources of heat that you can use to heat up both silver and gold. I'll give you a little bit of sites to go with you. Joy making the bonding that's taking place is called diffusion bonding, and it is right down at the atomic level. What is happening at the join between two. Where the two different metals meat is when you get the right temperature on when you have pressure which we're going to reply by burnishing the metals together. There is an exchange off atoms at the point at which they join. So it is a very, very strong, very opponent. Bond. This is nothing like gold plating. It is not going to rub off. I have got pieces that I have bean using is teaching its own, causing my combo workshops for about eight or nine years now on, they still look as good as new without any diminishing of the beautiful right gold. The piece that you can see here has also being decorated using a rolled texture. I'm going to be covering that in the future. Now, the reason why diffusion bonding takes place between the gold and the silver is that the two metals in their purest state actually have a very similar atomic structure. So we do need fine silver on not sterling silver where the gold actually is touching. But I like to teach this topic using sterling silver on what I'm going to do is show you how to create a fine silver surface on top of your stunning silver on the gold. Will it here permanently? That and this is a really, really strong fish I've already set. The reason why I like teaching with Sterling Silver is that you are more likely to have studying silver than fine silver in your workplace. Your studio so much already on also study silver is over but stronger. Remember, it has got grizzly to copper. 7.5% copper added to it to give the metal extra strength. The other reason is it. If I teach you how to use this technique using sterling silver, then you are also learn how to do it or fine silver, including fine silver metal, Cray as well. So I'm trying to teach you as much as I possibly can in this house. So that's what conditions combo needs to work on. Explanation off why it actually works. Sister fusion bonding. Let's get on and have a look at the equipment and in particular heat sources. They need 3. Golden Butterfly Pendant - materials: the's material I'm going to use to make my combo butterfly pendants on as really look that much. The base of my pendant with silver is going to be this rectangular piece of sterling silver . I'm going to explain shortly whilst why? I'm using selling silver in fine silver. Um, on and I'm going to prepare that I put the gold on top of that. The chain on the jump ring here are what I'm going to fish off the pendant wiz. But probably the piece that you are most peace material that you are probably most interested in is gold. This is settled back in 24 karat. Gold is a piece about 3.5 by five centimeters. Um, on and it is what it looks like. So, really, switch the top of the envelopes. You can see their paper behind the piece. Paper ISS is gold. Never tried to make sure nothing is clean because there's no way of getting this out plastic fag without actually touching it. And I don't want to transfer she much dirt onto this. But that is be useful. That cold in yellow, A beautiful piece off 24 karat gold on day. As you can see, it is hundreds of times thicker than gold foil Andi gold, both gold plating gold foil as soon she gets down the package when you'll know that if you used it to talk, you cannot handle it. Flight. This assumes you touch it with either the most delicate touch of of a find soft paintbrush . It just breaks apart this if you pick it up or wave it about it. Haley is very thick and very strong on it is thick enough to cut with scissors, all with Kraft paper punches on the paper, paper art craft tools that you can get to cut fancy shapes out. It's great for being cut. Neighbor Teoh cut out shapes with those. So this is to go for the going to be using? No. Um, what I would like to say is that there are, um, supplies a gold foil on the market that, um, are 23 karat gold on bond. They are a little bit cheaper. Um, they kind of work, but they don't. My experience, they don't give the best results. They're not quite as reliable house, so they don't have this beautiful car that 24 karat gold does also have a look out for the thickness. Generally, if you can find a piece of gold foil that they say, the supply says it's suitable for combo. That is bigger than this piece. But it's the same crisis like cheaper, I guarantee to you it will be thinner. This is the brother that looks like that Speaker five, a packet that looks like that. This is the ground that I prefer you can see for writing. It comes all the way from Japan. It's a really nice browned eso. This is what I'm going to be using. I'm going to cut social butterflies out of it. I'm going to hear stays to adorn my piece of silver. So next thing I need to show you are the tools that we're going to use 4. Golden Butterfly Pendant - equipment: the's are small bits of equipment I'm going to need to make. My combo butterfly pendant was also to larger pieces that I will show separately. They don't quite fit into the shot with the others. So I here a couple things that can cut through the gold foil for me very nicely. What pair of sharp scissors? Andi, They are good enough to cut through this foil as you saw. It is nice, and six is thick enough to cut through the foil. So if you wanted to, you could cut out your own abstract shapes using just a pair of scissors. However, I'm going to be using a paper craft punch in the shape of a butterfly. I'm going to be using that to punch out the three butterflies that I want to decorated myself dependent with whichever method you used to cut your gold foil. I strongly suggest that you folks aside, a piece of tracing paper having paper folded around the foil will give it an extra bitter strengths. Onda a little bit of more rigidity, which means that cutting through with the scissors or the paper punch will result in much cleaner edges to your gold foil. The reason I prefer to use tracing paper rather than ordinary paper is that you can see through the tracing paper to see where your gold is to help you make more accurate cuts and therefore make the best possible use of the gold foil that you can. I'm going to show you in a moment the tools, my soldering kit that I'm going to need to prepare my studying silver. But once that's prepared, I'm then going to heat it up, using my favorite heat source, not polite account that you can see here. I'm going to Hughes that heat up. A silver surgeon reaches the right temperature for combo to help me toe burnish the gold foil onto the combo on veg user burn. Isha, I prefer my gate Bernie shot, I finds. It gives me a much smoother action, much for further feel of it on. As you can see, you can get, I get burnishes in different shapes and sizes. On alternative is to use a steel burnish. And if you've carried out in Stone City before, you may already have a still Berisha that will do just as good a job produced justices results as an a gate Burnish just personally, I prefer the feel of the gate on the gold competitively using steel on the gold. I've also got a pair of reverse action tweezers here because I find it useful to have another tool available to help hold silver. Still, as I'm burnishing the gold foil, it was a still not here because steel is a really good absorber of heat when we've been sold me before. You ever heard we talk about still tools being a heat sink drawing heat away from the silver. So I'm going to use a still bench block as a deliberate heat sink. Well, take a pendant off my heat source. I'm gonna pop it on the steel block to help it to called a bit quicker once it's cooled down because of my design off, some of the butterflies hang off the edge of dependent. I'm going to use a small, rounded needle file to help me remove very carefully the gold of the edge of dependence on D. I've got a flat file, ladies, another needle file or six inch far like the weapons I've got here. So round off the edges of civil rectangle orbit to create a sight more pleasing shape and also about one that doesn't have any sharp corners to it. Now, when the pendant comes off the heat source, you will see that it is not a beautifully finished surface. Yet there will be some visible lines made by the burnish ever not actually galadhrim artful scratched into the silver surface. But they're not particularly attractive marks that have been left from the burnishing of the gold foil with your gate more still, burnish one thing. She use a very, very fine sending heart to remove those marks and give the fish that I like to the combo jewelry. But when we get that section, I talked about another couple of tools that you can choose. Instead, the piece of kit sequences start use my bench trail hereabouts drill or, indeed, any type of hands, Jill or pendant drill flat shaft to drill a hole at the top of the pendant on. And then I'm going to use the two pairs of flat nose pliers you can see here to have put the jumping through that hole to. That's ready to change for it and finish off dependent there's a little bit more equipment than we need theirs actually shown here. So I'm going to show you first of all, a few pieces from my soldering kit says I'm going to need to prepare the silver on Also talked you about some different types off heat source that you can use to teach the silver and gold up. 5. Golden Butterfly Pendant - soldering equipment: I think now that this project is not a soldering one, because I need to prepare my sterling silver. So I'm going to be using the basis dependent. I need to do a little bit of heating up, repetitive, heating up on quenching pickling off the silver to prepare it. Andi. So I need to show you that equipment as well. So these are a few pieces from my soldering kits that we're going to need. I've got a couple of tiles, a heatproof surface. Teoh, protect my table top. Andi, I'm not sure going to be carrying out the heating of silver on fire bricks. That is going to be my heatproof work surface. This is a little bit of extra protection. The tiles underneath This is a very small piece of silver and also no heating it up to the highest temperatures. So this small soldering torch is absolutely fine for this job. I also got three bits of equipment on top of the fabric. I've got a Sharpie pen which can be a useful guide to help you prevent overheating a piece of silver by accident. I've got of, however section tweeters so I can pick up the silver safely, and I've also got a pair of crossed Reese is I will take my work in and out of the pickle pickle being something else that we're going to need and the pickle it in my pick apart, just they side out of shock to its like, too big to bring into shot. I've also got quench pot because, of course, it is important to cool down your work before you pushed into the pickle and a piece of kit that useful but not essential, is a little plastic sieve. If you have one of these, it could be safely putting the pick, although no metal parts in it, to contaminate the pickle and actually putting a small piece of silver in the city in the quench port and then transferring the whole thing over inch. The pickle pot could just save you fishing about for small bits of silver in the bottom of the pickle pot. Next up is a look at the different heat sources that you could use to heat up the silver and the gold with booth 6. Golden Butterfly Pendant - heat sources: you have two main choices for a heat source for combo Andi, which one you use usually comes down to not just budget, but also how often you plan to carry out this process. So this first ones are showing you is definitely the more expensive toe by out of the two. It is an ultra light kill. It was first about for firing ports or pieces off precious metal clay Onda, also for five isil pieces off enamel ing as well, and carry out that process. You have a surface that you put a metal play on that you fits nicely into here. The heat element is under here this upside down, so it's from it goes on the top, and you've got yourself a little kill that, according to the manufacturer's, can reach about 650 degrees centigrade in just 20 minutes and then hold a really, really nice, steady temperature. Now with the lead off Andi, his brass plates that you have to buy action one of thes own each. Instead of firing pieces of metal clay each provides a puff it surface, were carrying out combo on again within about 20 minutes and reaches that perfect temperature of carrying out combo on. Very importantly, it holds steady at that temperature. Now the plates that you combine eyes show by them as a pack of two of flat Wonder, as you can see, fits perfectly onto the top there, or one with a dip in the middle. I used this one of funding flat pieces price price. But if I'm doing please physical for the shaping to maybe a doled carp dish or, um, pieces, maybe a hollow bead, maybe then are put in sides. The dish here, on what shape will do will help to throw heat up around the silver's. That's why they're two different ones. So the advantage is that it's actually designed for this process. Andi. It holds a really, really nice, steady heat so you can rely on it. It is also very cheap to run it current prices. It costs less than four pence per hour to run, so it is by economical want you getting money. However, the downside is that this is not a cheap piece of kit to buy. You're talking in the UK between 213 £250 so not checked by in the states about $245. Andi thes dishes. So I mentioned these plates ago. Top brass plates. They Hart brass. They started off partner. See him talk from the back A lot shiny er on a lot more about golden yellow there. No, they were looking now, but those will set you back between 55 to £60 the u K about 40 to $45 in the States. So again, they're not cheap. But I said they are very, very reliable. So for May, this bitter kit, because a lot of the work that I produced to sell, um, uses combo and also I run very regular Kwan Bo workshops in my studio. This piece of kit from me is most definitely worth while it comes down to cost her use. I've actually got two of these because of the workshops that I run. So machines don't have to wait about on cue up for just using one killed. As I said, it comes down to cost for use that this actually had worked out more economical in the long run for me than the next piece of kits that I'm going to show you. So this is the far cheaper alternative to the expensive to buy, but cheap to run ultra light kill on its A standard domestic hot plate. You can either use one on your home or your stove. If you've got this type of finish, um, or he combines I've got here a single plugging one we shall be you use. You're going to need again a broadsheet to go by a brass plate to go on the top. This'll was only a few pounds to buy on bond, however, they see there's no 0.8 or one millimeter thick, but it gives you an idea of what aimed for. You can even score fold down the corners if you find that this slips around. But its job is to provide a much smoother surface for you to work on, and one that also dissipates the heat more evenly for when you're working. So this whole plate cost. May I think about 16 £18 certainly wasn't any more than £20 so a massive amount cheaper in the ultra light kill on if you were just wanting to have a go at this technique, but you're not certain. Whether you this state, whether it's something you want to do, a great deal, then I would actually suggest that you go with the hotplate, rather invest straightaway in your ultra light to kill. However, as you'd expect, this does have its disadvantages. The 1st 1 is it's very expensive to run compared to the ultra light kill. The figures I'd be hard to find on the Internet suggests that it's about 3 to 4 times more expensive to run the hotplate. Since it's one your light ultralight killing, you see just here. But if you're only going to use a little bit again, that's talked about a consideration, really. The main disadvantage with using these is that whether they are on a stove or whether they are single plugging ones like this, they have a thermostat built into them, so they do not actually hold a steady temperature. They go up to the temperature that you set it at using dial here on, and then they click off hand. They started cooled down again on once they cooled down enough, they click back on and they start heating up again. So every now and again you will find what, actually, more than every now and again quite frequently. When you're using this hot plate, you will find that the gold is no longer a hearing bonding really nicely to the silver, despite you doing everything else by a textbook on that will be because the attractive they saw the hotplate has cooled down against. What you have to do is tight off pocket. Let it cool down a little bit. Plug it back in on set it going again, and it will get the Cuando temperature that you need. But you're gonna have to keep doing that. So they go. There's the two main sources of heat the reliable, cheap to run but expensive to buy ultra light kill or the more expensive to run, less reliable but very cheap to buy hot plate. That's that. It really comes down to how much you decide to do with this technique, whether it's going to become a big part of your work and help you produce work that you're going to sell quite a lot off. It comes down really to the cost. Her use. One last things I do want to mention about these different heat sources is that eventually the heating elements inside them are going to wear out. Um, now the heating element in this one can be replaced. I've had to replace mine once, but considering I think I've had this 16 maybe seven years, haven't replaced it once is not bad, considering the number of hours, as I use it each week on the fact Are you sitting making workshops as well? The heating elements there said, are available to buy. In the UK I found of about £75. But again, if you spread that a cost a number of years that they last May, that's really not bad for the replacement. Heating elements are very easy to fit. You don't need a nutrition or anything like that. She basically plug but wise into the attachments. So it's is actually very East fit, and they come with instructions to help you to do that. Now compare that with the hot hate. The hotplate elements are going to run out as well on they are not designed to be replaced . So when that happens, I'm afraid there's no way around it. The hot plate is useless on Diffuse wanted to continue using a hot plate. If you want bow method, then you're going to need to buy another one. So actually, that's another cost to consider, because I would say I have gone through about five hot plates in the same like the time that I have had this ultra light to kill us, as I have had this ultralight killed quite a few years now, when you consider that figure of having to go through five hot plates also taken to account that the hot place have had nowhere near the intensive use. But my combo killing has had hours each week, plus use in the workshops as well. So that's just try and give you the full information between going which one to go for. Still, if you were only wanting to give this a try, I still had you towards the hop rate but wants to give you the full information about why, although the ultralight kill is on the surface of it, very expensive piece of kit toe by each. Actually, the long use it on, the more you use it, the more cost effective it becomes. There is one more method off hitting up the silver. There's want to mention at this point what I'm going to save for later class. You can also use a small blow torch to heat up your metal, but that's requires a little bit more previous experience, a combo and a very good control of both of flame on and off the gold foil could you don't want to melt it, So I wanted to mention that third message, but I'm going to save that for later class. 7. Golden Butterfly Pendant - planning your design: wait. You're new to working with Rambo, then it is a very good idea. Spent a bit of time planning out your design before you actually go ahead and cut out the gold with experience, you get a little bit more idea about what you can do. Um, and you won't have spent quite so much time finding out. But this is a baby thing to do, right? It's start because it is 24 karat gold foil that you're going to be using. One thing actually didn't say in Material section class is that currently the cost in UK of that piece off gold foil is about £20 which does sound a lot for the fact that you're getting something not that big surface areas of very, very thin. But I find that a little really does go a long way. But in the future class, I'll even show you a design for using up all the little bits and pieces that are left after you've cultural shape south with scissors or paper punches, because you don't want to waste any of that 24 karat gold. So I've got some. They played her. Here is the yellow post it note, you don't have to use your paper, but I thought was quite appropriate. It would show up nicely. So I won't do is cut a few butterflies on. And because they are such in the same ways I cut out gold, I tend to holding it that way up because I went to get the best use possible out the gold. I hold it this way up and sir, otherwise discover on cutting. This is with my disk cutter. I will trying position everything. So I'm making the best possible use. Oh, father, Material producing is a little waste is possible, but you can see there. Hey, I think three is probably going to be enough. Well, I was always taught it was nice to have things in order numbers design like this. So try and prevent me from touching surface of the silver that you just image surface off preparation. All on my careful second to use her off section Tweeze is okay. The butterflies accent. That wasn't a plan, Andi. I think what I like to do is positioned them so that they're kind of flying on to the silver. Maybe that one or on or virtually on. But before you start cutting out the goal, just have a play. Make sure that you are happy with the shapes that you are cutting out. I may not end up exactly the same, uh, French Peace may not send up in exactly the same as the design he come up with this stage, but it's starting to give you a nine idea with where you want to position your gold. You may even want to take a quick photo with your mobile phone. Of course, we'll have cameras in our pockets our days. You could take a quick photo to refer to for when you are replacing the gold. So unhappy with that I got the top butterfly is all the way on the piece of silver on and the other two are flying onto from different angles. So no, I've got that design. I'm going to get home without she cutting the gold and carry out Kwambai process 8. Golden Butterfly Pendant - preparing the sterling silver: way. As I said in the technical How it works section the class. I prefer to teach Rahmbo using sterling silver rather find silver, even though Combo only works with the two metals or silver and the gold in their purest state on, that's for several reasons. First, see people who are more like just have a quick go with this quick try. You're more likely to have sterling silver in your studio than fine silver. Study. Silver is also a harder alloy, which means that some of the pieces might be a little bit lasting. But most importantly, if I teach people how to carry out combo using sterling silver that at the end of the class you'll have a really good understanding off how combo works. Using something silver. Andi on fine silver, you be able to carry it out on both on that's fine silver, both in a solid form. Onda also using five metal clay as well. However, if you're going to use any silver, there's a little bit of preparation that you need to do for four hand onder that is creating a fine silver surface on top of your piece of silver. This process is called depletion. Gilding and gilding is when you give an article a different surface treatment to what is underneath. So in terms of a guilt picture frame, for example, that has golden leaf on the surface, surface is different to the wood underneath. Depletion. Gilding, however, is where you deplete the surface. You take something out of the surface off the silver, in this case to create a different surface to what's underneath. So in this case, we're going to create a piece of silver that is so silver inside but fine silver on top on that meets requirements of combo needing the fine silver on the 24 karat gold to metals in their purest state. For the strongest of bond to be formed between them and this process of depletion, gilding isn't just useful for combo. It's also the first step in carrying out articulation. Andi, I have a class or ridicule. Asians are also linked to in the class materials of their seek and see how the same preparation of your silver could be used for two different things. And if you carry out a narrowing on sterling silver, it is best to give a fine service surface to your silver prior to putting the enamel ing on top. So may be wondering why I've got three bits of silver here, the same shape, same size on that. Cycling showed this process depletion gilding without making you watch the whole 20 minutes 1/2 our process the city he usually takes. So it is a bit of a speeding it up process if you have heated stone silver, then quenched it and then put it in the pickle to heat up. But any time before then you have already started carrying out depletion gilding. As you know, if you heat up stunning silver, it creates a covering or bloom off cop peroxide ization. Study Silver has got 7.5% covering it. And when the copper meets the heating auction flame copper oxides formed within Quench the metal, but you never put anything hopped directly in the pickle. Andi then pickle it to clean off the observation. And if you don't have to heat up the silver a second time, then you're of notice that there is less occid ization the second time round and even less the third force of ethics sector time round so what you are actually doing, even though you may not have actually know the name before you are carrying out depletion Guilty not to complete the process. You need to get the silver to be the same color, whether the flame is on it or the flame is off it. You need to make sure that when you take the flame off your piece of metal that it stays a paperwhite car. If any hints off grey oxygen ization is still in the silver, then it's still need another go through the process. So I've got here three pieces of it that I said that you can see this piece. I think it's really pretty close to the oxidation. I hope it's It's about there What will find out for seven a moment. This piece has just been heated up. Once this piece, I deliberately left the the blue plastic coating on their protective coating on there so that you have proof that that is ah, brand new pieces never being heated up at all. But they are all of them sterling silver. So now you've seen this is a nice new piece of silver. I'm going to I live The, uh, plastic coating for both sides Police it from both sides. I have on occasion had someone only produced that you remove it on one side. Then he is silver and it's a little bit smelly, so remove it from both sides. Can see it's still nice and shiny, and I'm gonna heat this piece up in this like should be rare familiar to you. Blue section created. I just keep going. So there's a nice room there, so making sure holding my torch very safely at the moment I turned over. I just make up suit certain it was a nicely with survey on both sides. The reason I'm doing that is that with, um, a symmetrical shape like this, it's there isn't a distinct front or back to the peace, so I may end up putting my design on either side, so I'm want to make certain that both sides are going through this service process. Andi words. If I turn api so you could see that some ox citation was formed, the fact that it was against the firebreak meant that he didn't get his marks. Optimization formed a front, so just turned it over. to make sure the oxidation waas even now. Another question At the moment, I want to believe that they're seeking to see the difference next, the second piece. So that's got quite a lot of organization. This space is already being heated up. Once. Go stuff again about the about the same time. I'm also again going to turn it over to make sure the other side is being done evenly as well. But you can see a really obvious difference. Okay, so this piece that was its first heating, this piece has really gone through this stage. It's been quenched, its being pickles. I've been taking it as typical. Rinsed, it dried it explain in a moment while drying it is very important, and then it's just as you've seen it. So this second heating, so you can see as far Lasak civilization produced this time. But it's still not clean enough. Is not a fine silver surface good enough for oxidation? Site for Kwan Bo to be carried out. Now this pace I have gone through this process off heating, quenching, pickling, rinsing, drawing, heating, quenching, pickling, rinsing, drying, heating, crisis, etcetera, etcetera. It's gone through that process eight or nine times. Which means that now, when I heat it up, claimed to be a little bit no now more or bassinet, it's still strong enough for our purposes. But can you see there is no change in color with flame is on it for the plane comes off. It still remains that paper white unpolished finish on post silver appearance So this he's never done in franchise. Turned it over and he chip on your side. You see the same again. This is actually ready for corporal process. If the surface is now fine silver as proved by the fact there is no copper left a surface to be oxidized. There's no discoloration. So this one has now had nine or 10 heating things quenching, pickling, rethink When trying this type Martin goes through that process. So this one is now ready. How to get these two to this stage? I would need to continue through this process again was being heated. Question to make sure they're safe. Put in pickle partner pickle to clean them up, rinse the pickle off, and then I mentioned it is important to dry them, and I'm just going to move these out of the way so that I can demonstrate to you why it is important to drive them now. This is a piece that I have rescued out of my scrap pot. It's being heated up at least once on, so the preaching process is actually what he started on this. I know it's being he Stop this once because, as you can see, it's got a rolling mill texture. On one side of it was a nice one for December so myself on I always kneel. My metal hitched up, uh, to make a little bit softer to work with before I say I wrote texture. Sinus has been reached up once. Wasn't really use this for It's just just dipping it in my my quench port. You should be out to see that it's still wet and shiny. Order you water dripping off it. That rents that, but I haven't deride it as I would normally before I started heating it up again for the depletion. I want to show you why. So the frame is trying. You think that's I'm sure you'll drive. Doesn't matter whether you dry it toe with a town or whether you dry it with the torch, but can you see getting talk? Sure. Light again features a bit more now. Well, just each dish a little bit. There were marks left on it by the impurities in the water. As the water dried off, those impurities were left behind and there is actually still over Mark left. Their next match is just come off as I've robbed it it with the tool that's still actually a bit of a mark. Now, as you can see, the more you go through this process depletion the light, a gray or maybe even whiter. The surface of your silver becomes, if you have marks left on there by the impurities in the water that the torch has dried off rather new drying off yourself with a towel. Then those impurities could, um, give you folks like a deer, give you, distract you from at once. She realized thing. Now is that optimization still do I still need to get going to this process, so I still need to keep heating us up or is it just impurities in the water? So what I always prefer is to eliminate that Just give your silver just a very quick dry before you start heating it up rather than letting the flame dry the water off because what you don't want to do once your silver has got to this stage with the very rocks ization after said that probably needs just two or three more goes um, But as you get a fine a silver surface, it becomes a lot easier if you're not careful to overheat your metal. And if that happens, you can actually start to melt the surface accidentally. There's something else you can do as well on that is using a Sharpie, as you have heard me say in many classes beforehand. If you're just learning this or if you are working in a studio that is very bright and there's not much you can do about that, then putting a Sharpie mark on your silver on just burning off that my is heating up the silver until you burn off with a ghost, Go see remains of that mark is a very good indicator about whether you reached a kneeling temperature, which also rings true for this as well. If you surfing at this stage, it's pretty obvious that you teach it up enough to get a nice being with boxes ation. But at this stage, if you just I kill but maybe just a ghost off the mark remaining, then you heat it up enough. It is far better to do several more gentle heating up of your silver to go through the process to get the depletion gilding done. It is to go in there quite fiercely with the torch and try and get through the process quicker and do fewer forming. Read our cocks ization each time because as you get closing voted to the end of the process , you could accidentally start to melt surface, so it's far bestest. Take it gently and using a Sharpie mark as a guide is a very useful tick. However, it has recently come to my attention that in states the chemical makeup of the black Sharpie ink has changed. Those of us and UK, we're very lucky it hasn't or just hasn't yet, but I know from friends in the States that it has slightly changed on the Sharpie mark on the pens in the states, maybe other countries, and as well, he might have to tell May no longer completely burns off. It always leaves a ghost mark afterwards, they do Just be aware of that. If you're if you've got a pen from from the States and make sure that you don't keep trying to heat up a silver toe home high temperatures so frantically try and burn off that last ghostly mark because apparently the last mile doesn't go with the flame. But it does go when you put a pickle, you silver. And by the time you've polished it. So this is the piece that I'm actually going to use to make the pendant. It's nice and clean it with a fine silver surface. The depletion gilding has being completely carried out on this one. This is going to get back in the scrap, These two. I'm going to continue through the process depletion, gilding probably later on and use them for other pendants at a later date. But now that this one is ready, I want to make certain that I handle it by the edges. I don't want to put finger thumbprints on the surface because I don't want you get surface dirty. Any dirt on there, certainly any bigger greases. And if you're carrying the Ouch this projective. What? Going to this project in the summer. Then you're more likely to have finger Greece's left near surface. They can actually inhibit the bonding between the silver on the gold. So once you pieces ready, make sure that you only handle it by the edges. I know we're going to get home with actually putting the gold on the silver. 9. Golden Butterfly Pendant - applying the foil: ultra light killed has been heating up for about 20 minutes now. So it is what should be at just the right temperature. Remember, it will hold the temperature really nicely. Now the parts of the heat is going to come out on most is actually this section here The opening That would be the opening of the kill normally. So I'm angry that so that I'm facing this way that you can't see you will be using. My hands are facing this way. I've got the Oakland facing over here, So it's never facing towards May. So it makes things what will comfortable and certainly safer as well. So first thing I need to do is to cut the gold on and working with the space you come out the envelope. This is the piece tracing paper that you saw earlier. Andi pop it in size. It's a folded over peace and they've got tracing paper folded around the gold. And it makes everything a lot crisper when you cut through as a little bit of extra strength of the gold little inspector rigidity, which means that when you cut it with scissors or with you, cut it with paper punch. Then a second later, I'm much crisper cut when you're cutting through this as well. However, I have already did. Expect got quite a few pieces of gold foil that have started. We cut into read by myself for students so rather and cut into a nice, fresh piece. I'm going to use some of this instead. No difference between the two. Just this one has already started. So the first thing I'm going to do is requested. I hold the cutter upside down so that I can move the gold four around, So I turned. Make as much as possible. Best use that typically just got out of sight. I got my first piece, my first of a butterfly. It just wants to escape. It flew out of Hicks is the 1st 1 there. See, if these to see I've tried was my So I can't make the best use off a piece of gold sheet. See if this for more no fly off, remember? Remember to put that bit down. That might help. Oops. To, Of course, it's cutting out little bits of from the, uh, the tracing paper as well. I don't quite fit one in there on that site. We're going to be a little bit of gold that's going to be left over in the corner. Can't be helped that bit in the corner. It will still get used for something that said in a later class, I will show you, um, on idea for using or the little bits and pieces. Sure. I can probably come up with at least two. So pop those bits of gold out of the way and take a last look. How I decided I'm going to set up the design on just going to move these bits. I remember trying not to handle the gold now. So good. Pick top with reverse action. Tweezers on a pocket there on top of the killed. Now there are two bits of it. But I want to show you area. I do apologize, But then what exactly? Very technical social pot of water. Andi, I wouldn't coffee Steira on and the wooden coffee stores You can see what? Oh, my God! Sequitur! Cup of char marks at the end. Because holding this I know we'll be putting any gold up in this corner up here, so I'm gonna top against here. But much of that gets 30. Let me see as an extra char marks disappeared on the edge, there was actually talking a bit on the silver there. So when I do this, I try and put it on a bit of silver That isn't going to be covered by the gold so that that suit doesn't inhibit the bonding of the gold. But when you touch something, wouldn't bit end of much stick and cocktail stick with Endeavor wouldn't Steira when it's when everything's like temperature York Actually, Shari on the wood. So I know that that is now exactly like temperature lately. The killings right temperature with pieces. Silver has picked up enough heat as well. So what these three butterflies to put on Andi. There are two ways in which you can do this. If you have a very steady hand, because you are used to working with things that are very small in a very steady controlled manner, then you can apply each piece of gold too dependent or to what turn into dependent one of your time when everything is at the right temperature and that is what I'm going to do now , I'm going to demonstrate now to you. However, if you are unsteady with your hands a bit nervous, maybe about applying the gold because it is gold on. This is the first time you you've done it, then what you may want to do instead of setting it up. How I've been doing here is to put the silver on the cross late before the kill has reached the right temperature and puts the pieces of gold in place again before it has reached the correct temperature. Because until it reaches that correct, um, each other gold will not bond to the silver. Remember, it's a combination the heat on the pressure that causes it to bond to silver. So because it won't bond, it gives you the chance to use a couple of tools to manipulate the gold very gently. Don't we do it very, very gently. Seed increase up to the foil is very gently moving to the position that you wanted to be in on. Then you can plug the kill noon on, let everything heat up. You do have to make sure that you don't cause me drafts and here Russia, because it a breeze near the MK Ill. As it's heating up because you could walk so pieces of gold off your silver. However, what I'm going to do, it's actually used my burn Isha to pick up these little pieces on. That's where a little pot of water comes in. Sometimes you might see people looking their finger making their finger wet and then taking for a bit of moisture that saliva moisture off the finger onto the tool. Um, because a little bit of moisture or your tool is all this is needed to help you pick the gold up. However, because my tools used by several people, I want to be a little bit more hiding it than that. So what I do and said, it's just tip happy ending, like so And then what I like to do when it's a symmetrical shape like this? Yes, just you just see. I just touched the chick, the wet tip of my Manisha to the middle of the butterfly, but it's held in place. There. You can if you need to use is a queen finger or another tool just manipulated in place. But I prefer toe hold. It said that it is resolved for butterfly across the middle of a butterfly. I don't like to hold it. So it's in the middle of a shape so that I, um, more aware off where the shape is on the end. My Berisha and I want I'm going to Do you see what? My hand here. But it's not touching. The kill doing is just chipping it over until I've got it in the right place now, because everything is at the right temperature. As soon as I touched the gold in place on the silver touched in place on the kiln, it started bonding. Andi, it's not going to move about. What I do have any is Teoh need to do is do a lot more burnishing, especially edges to get it toe bond everywhere are not just in the middle on the butterfly's body, which is where I touched in place initially. I'm going to move the camera in before I do that because you know no, don't need to see all of the extra bits and pieces around the killed. I just You just need to see Ah, close up. You off the kill itself. Okay, so I'm coming closer now. What I don't want to do is just start burnishing lobbying all the way over the top that quite vigorously because it's not tacked down all the way across just yet. And if I searching us to vigorously, then I would cause the butterfly to curl up, crease up. I don't want to do that. So what I always do is just tack it down. What my way from center outwards. What you start to see is the go to take on a slightly, uh, even more shiny, a smoother appearance. So I'm just brushing out from the middle, being here for not crease. And then once I know that it is a nicely tacked out, sat down those antenna as well what I can do. No, it's nicely tracked down. All the way across is to then stop burnishing. I actually used with side of the burnish. Rather the tip. I want to pay careful attention to the edges of the goat, and that's just the goat shape. And also where the gold goes across the end, the edge of silver, because that is going to be when I take the excess gold off we actually go with as Well, some paint very careful attention to those pledges, because if there's any weak spot told it all, uh, that's where they are on that, believe it or not, is not permanently bonded on that. Gold won two silver it permanently on there. So I'm going to move on a 2nd 1 So I've made tick off my burn Isha a little bit. What again? Sometimes just like catching the, um, sold out part. Picking up the peace forward is the most difficult thinking. Once you got it, you got it. So tell me another one coming out of a roundabout about there. So again, just precedent the middle, suck it into place, then going to brush across. So they thought they leave the wing on the body because gently first circuit into place stop bashing all the way across to making sure that the edges are really, really family. Understand? As you can see, it is very quick, magical process. Once you've done all your preparation. Now this but a flight or deer Now that was lucky. That just proves felt the way. Well, I do say that if I have things going wrong in the class, I actually vitamin to show you how to put that right now. As you saw, that butterfly wanted to fly a little bit prematurely. But because it is a combination off heat Andi pressure On day I hadn't pressed the gold into place. I was able to retrieve it, so I brushed it very quickly off and then re dump into the burn. Isha to lift it back off again. Nice. Here. Nice and safe. So this spot a flight I had coming all the way onto dependent. How about their happy with that? But again, gently brushing out from the center This is the the butterfly you've seen going down. So you should be getting us now Bullshit across when they're months, its tracks down with way town burnish all the way across. Make sure it looks really nice and smooth and shiny all the way across. I'm just going to go back and you burnish across those best to just for good measure. Okay, I'm happy with that now. I don't want to leave this on here for longer than it needs to pay, because the longer the gold is heated up, the more it can bond to the silver eso. What I'm going to do now is pop it onto still block. You see here it's as I said earlier. The still Brock is a really good drawer. Heat is going to take the heat away from dependent on that. Everything cool down quicker. So that's no actually carried out the combo process on What we need to do now is clean off the excess gold, but still save it because it is 24 karat gold. And then, uh, Farley, I just finish off the pendant. 10. Golden Butterfly Pendant - removing excess foil: dependent now called down on Putting It on the steel block, adapted to go down a little bit quicker. Maybe not a massive consideration of your working in the workshop on your own. But if there's a group of you on, do you want things to cool down quicker than that's a useful chip to remember? But I have always he got thes excess pieces of gold hanging over the edge of dependent. Andi ITT's something that you could come across quite a bit with designs. If you want. Teoh have design where in this case, the pieces of floating over. Or if you want to make sure, for example, that you got a strip of gold going all the way across dependent, you'd actually want a piece that is longer than the wits to make sure that you didn't position but too short one side or the other, she learned a little bit of access. Either side that can have came off, and in this section class will show you how to very easily and quickly do that. I didn't see here just at the top of the short here in the middle. I was the bumps off. May 24 karat gold. There are a couple of here rifling cover Granules of lower karats of gold on day. Uh, doesn't matter that their mothers up in there because I know that anything that isn't foil is is 18 carat and anything that is for 24. So I'm not worried about getting mothers up that these are bits of scraps. It'll say scrap this as a good thing for them away. And so you know that, ah, pieces left over from whole sheet on. But the rest of it is is trimmings from doing much the same as I'm about to do now, Andi. Some of these are big enough to be reused for other things. So, for example, got some strips. It'll be great for maybe having an abstract pattern going across a simple pendant. But even the tiniest bits in there will either get used on combo project or recycled in some way, so my excess gold from here is going to end up in this part. So I'm going to work over the pot, so that's the gold full straight in. That and we're going to do is take around it. Needle file says it's 1/2 round one flat on that side are found on this one. Not going to do is hold it. Hold it. Say you can, uh if I take the protest away. First of all, just to show you how I'm going to hold everything. So going to hold the file so that it is about 45 degrees to the edge. Oh, it's so dependent around holding it like that. This is the round its side, this Frenchy. Okay, So what it takes Jones doing Just finding across sweeping across on what are essentially doing is shaming food cutting through the gold at that point. Okay, the same with this piece here. I get very quick. Very easy. But no, that's trimmed off and see the butterflies flying onto dependent. Andi, the gold went on now said That's what you re used another time 11. Golden Butterfly Pendant - drilling: way actually finishing this pendant. Now I need to drill a hole for the jumping to go through to a touch the chain tidy up corners on bond Also give the surface a nice finish. But none of those jobs take very long. Onda, as you probably guessed from the fact that I've got my chill out and I got a pendant sitting on the work surface for the drill that that it's the because I'm going to do now. I've marked a, um, Sharpie March, the point at which I want to do the whole seven river light. She should have to see dark mark in the middle. Very close to top there. Um, I could have attached, um, bail to the back. I would also may be done to hold one in each corner of change. I've me the side, but I want to keep things very simple on this design to just a simple hole at the top. So as I always do with this just making certain being the drill down without it being switched on to make certain everything is in the right position. Of course, you don't have to use a bench drill. Um, you could use a pendant drill or a hand drill. I've got this so good. Is it that's going through come through nicely. So do you know, finish off the pendant by charging up corners and sorting out that surface to make it look a lot more attractive? 12. Golden Butterfly Pendant - finishing the pendant: No, I don't want to file too much off the corners of these. I still wanted to be very clearly a rectangle, but the corners are quite sharp, so I just want to smooth them out a little bit. So I'm going to use my six inch flat file. I'm just going to sweet claimed the corners make it so lightly around us. Shape with that one. Semi bonds. Next one. Sometimes it's nice. Just round. Undo the same finding from the other side of the corner as well. Just helps to give, uh, even finish at the corners. 65 grand on tour. Okay, that's that job done. I sing quick, but no longer any sharp corners. So that's nice. One thing I have noticed, actually, is that a little bit of a ridge of metal. They're probably where supplies cut through that metal. So going to reach for my half rounded file again and what I'm going to do picked outside awful moment can do the same job. Um, he's just again just sweep across the corner a little bit, sometimes on pieces of metal that you it cut from the brilliant supplier. If you use the very very edge of it. Then it can have little bit of a bevel, sometimes for a sharper edge on one side where the guillotine has cut through, um, at the supplies, they just here a little bit, just just taken a shot myself there. So a little extra next thing I want to do is get this finished off. Nicest surface. Finished up nicely at the moment. You can see the move amounts to gold is definitely catching the light, but it doesn't look too attractive at the moment because the Berkshire has left marks across dependent. Now you could give this a normal lovely polish. However, I actually prefer to give my combo pieces a space likely matte finish on. The reason for that is that if you give something quite a haIf polish, then all you see is the shine. You don't necessarily see the difference in color. Vory well, it all whereas if it's slightly Matt, then the difference in color shows up better. So I have here. The very fine Sunday has it are sold by, um anywhere that sells metal K and they are sold for finishing off the metal clay. But before Andi four is five dry, but before fired on day or so after it's fired as well. So I'm going to do with these is first of all, just you. The thank you's a quick grew up. No, my supply sells the's a set of three on This is the finest off the three of you can see you from. Cut just with scissors. You can cut pieces off. They last a long time because you can actually drink some to get for free off. So that's very fine. That's enough to finish up the edges. Fight nice, especially those corners. Where I filed Not I'm going to do is just across the surface. Do just one side at the moment. Maybe it's better there we go. Better if I put it down on the broad cross and tipping a tough, you should be able to see that this one, this is 2/3 of the pendant has been rubbed with the sanding pant as uh, it's gone. It's not completely polished. It's just so slightly. Matt was this side Justice River downside here hasn't been possible. It's still got the marks from the burn. Isha, it's going to through that side as well. It's going to do the booth. Make sure front is definitely fresh. Nicely. So have been a camera in the moment so that you can see a better view of this with the light shining off in a direction, you actually see the gold nicely. Um, but that much finish has given the pendant of really nice appearance. Andi, you can still see the difference off the two colors. Two different metals on the very last thing. Of course, that I need to do is actually at the jumping on the chain so that dependent can be worn. So I've got my very small jump free. Why should you start on? And two pairs or flat nose pliers Just holding of what they join the jump ring up which over the top applies either side Just twist to open each up on Koppett through the whole I make my jump rings out off no 0.8 millimeter wire. So my no 0.9 millimeter hole, which I drilled independent is a very good fit. Put the chain in close link jump ring up again, Andi One finished pendant 13. Golden Butterfly Pendant - final thoughts: way that first project serious classes made on. I agree with me. It really is a beautiful piece of jewelry, even if I do say so myself. Sometimes the simplest designs are ones that what the best Andi I hope and expect that you can see many different ways in which you can adapt this very simple design changing shape, the silver changing the shape of the paper punch cut out that you use to cut out the gold, having maybe just one motif in several on the species silver. There are many different variations you can come up with, and I can hope you can see now that although that piece of gold foil I said is worth about £20 a little really does go a long way. So hope you can understand why I said of the introduction that this is a way of adding 24 hour gold abuse E and a luxury 24 karat gold to your silver jewelry without breaking the bank. I did promise that I would also mention a couple of other ways of creating this beautiful matte finish. Ondas he can see the matte finish doesn't really allow you to see the difference in the color between the gold and the silver walls and just seeing a shine. I used as you saw very fun standing pound, very cheap thing to use, kicked by little last a long time. And that, he saw is very quick and easy to do. If you wanted upside more much finish than you could use a soft brass. Why brush on that can give particularly nice effect. If you didn't rush soapy water first, don't rub too hard. You don't want to put scratches in, but that can give you a same or matte finish. There are also tools that you can use with a pendant drill as well. My favorite being raid your discs. Silicon radio disks. They can keep very light matte finish. So there are a few options, depending on what you already have in your studio. In future classes in the series, I'm going to show you how to combine combo with rolling mill texture, how to carry out soldering safely and securely or combo pieces. How to add shaping to your work on many more also going to make sure that I show you at least a couple ways off using those tiny pieces those cut off pieces of 24 carat gold because, well, they are 24 karat gold and we don't waste them. So I hope to see you in some future classes on this topic. For now. Zone. Thank you for watching.