Soapmaking - Shampoo Bar | Joana Vieira | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

3 Lessons (19m)
    • 1. Intro

    • 2. Demo

    • 3. Final Thoughts

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About This Class


Welcome to this Soapmaking course!

In this course you will:

  • learn some basics on soap making;
  • learn a soap-based shampoo bar recipe;
  • learn some tips and tricks on soapmaking and;
  • watch a step-by-step demonstration on how to make this soap.

Join me in this course and take a step forward to a more environmentally friendly and healthier lifestyle!


Joana Vieira - Wholly Joana

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Music credits: Tiago Alves da Costa

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Meet Your Teacher

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Joana Vieira

Yoga | Eco-Friendly | Sustainability


Hello, I'm Joana!


I have always been passionate about Nature and the Environment, ending up studying Biology and specialising in Environmental studies (post-graduation in Territory, Environment and Sustainable Development, and Ecology and Environmental Management).

I have a palm oil-free plant-based diet, and I try to adjust my behaviour and habits in order to have a more ecological lifestyle and the least possible environmental impact.

Yoga has always been a passion of mine. This passion culminated in doing the instructors' course, in order to share with others the health an... See full profile

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1. Intro: Hello, my name is Joana and during this class I'm going to teach you how to make the soap-based shampoo bar. These are the topics that we are going to address during this class. I'm going to share the recipe with you. This recipe will be enough to make a 100g shampoo bar. And we'll go through the Lye solution, the oils and the additives, as well as the materials used and the basic safety measures throughout the process. There will be a step-by-step demonstration on how to make it, so you can see the whole process. It's better to watch it happen because questions might arise if you are trying to replicate a DIY project from a written recipe or a formula. Especially if you are new to soapmaking. I'll give you some tips and tricks on ingredients procedure. And I will explain how to use a good soap as shampoo. And no, it's not just rubbing it on your head and scrub. Although it is easy and more natural than other options, There's a secret to make the most of it and have beautiful, strong, shiny hair. In the end, you'll have a project which will be basically to replicate this soap, try it and give the rest of us a feedback on this shampoo bar. And who am I to be teaching you? You ask. Someone who has been transitioning to a more eco-friendly and wholesome lifestyle for over eight years and has been making her own household cleaning and personal care products for five years. So join me on this course and let's make soap together. 2. Demo: Welcome to the demonstration class of the soap making course. So let's start by looking at the recipe. In every soap recipe there is a lye solution, oil or oils mixture, and most of the times there are additives. The lye solution consists basically in water and lye, also known as sodium hydroxide. The solution is what makes possible the saponification of the oil - or oils in this case. I came up with his recipe through SoapCalc website - I will leave the link on the details of this class - and the maximum amounts for each oil that I know I can use her soap making. The additives are optional. I will use green clay, a green blend - made out of wheat grass powder, barley grass powder, spinach powder, ginger powder and spirulina powder - and I will use an oil blend with rosemary in peppermint essential oils. Rosemary essential oil has been proven to stimulate hair growth and to improve hair thickness, thanks to its ability to improve cellular generation. Peppermint essential oil has been shown not only to increase the number of follicles, follicle depth, and overall hair growth. And it helps sooth itchiness. You can enrich the properties of your soap by making infused oils. Here, I used a lavender infused olive oil, adding lavender properties to the oil. It's easy to make and it's well-worth the little extra work. You have two options. One, you can just add medicinal herbs and flowers into the oil and let them be for a couple of months in a dry dark space, a cupboard or pantry, and whenever you need to use it, you just filter the oil. Two, you can double boil the oil with the herbs and flowers until it's hot. Then turn off the stove and let them cool down before storing into a bottle, filtered or not. And again, whenever you need to use it, you can filter the oil. Let's get started! First, you will want to measure and align your ingredients. I recommend to do it in advance. So here I have the lye and the water, they will form the lye solution. the green blend, and addictive that will be part of this lye solution. I have the green clay, the coconut oil and the liquid oils together. And this will be my oil mixture. Now, mix the green blend and the water. I will use one of those little battery blenders to make foam in your coffee until it's completely dissolved. Next, mix the lye into the green solution. You need to do it either in a well ventilated area or outside, because it will release toxic fumes. Besides, you'll need to wear gloves and long sleeves whenever dealing with lye, because it's a very caustic ingredient, it will burn when in contact with your skin. The proper and safe order is to add a lye into the water and not the water into the lye. This would have a rather explosive reaction. So gently add the lye into the green solution. and stir. I am leaving the lye solution outside, so its released fumes won't stay inside. It will stay there for about ten minutes. That will be the time that it takes to cool down. Mix the coconut oil with the rest of the oils. It's normal in cooler weather for the coconut oil to be solid. If you need to melt the coconut oil, you can use a double boiler or the microwave. Then, add the clay to the oil mixture and blend it together. Make sure you get a homogeneous mixture. Spray some rubbing alcohol on the molds that you are going to use. I have esterilised them before, washing them with boiling water and soap, but I always spray them with alcohol too. Now, this is the best time to measure your essential oils because they are extremely volatile, which means that they evaporate quickly when exposed to the air. Less time exposed, less essential oils lost! They should always be measured by weight and not by drops. Again, I am using Rosemary essential oil and peppermint essential oil. Mix the lye solution with the oils until it is all blended together evenly. You will notice that it will start to get thicker, keep stirring until you reach trace point, like so. Add the essential oils blend and stir a bit more. Spray alcohol inside the moulds one last time and pour the soup inside. Bang it on the table a few times to get rid of air bubbles. I took a little bit of the top to the second mould, because it was a little bit too much for just one mould, as you could see. Cover the mould with a piece of cardboard and a kitchen towel and put it on a shelf for 24 hours before unmoulding. Thank you for watching! 3. Final Thoughts: Hello again, this time for the final video for this class, where I will review a few key aspects of the procedure and I will explain how you can use soap as shampoo and the science behind it. Reviewing the recipe, I used rice bran oil, coconut oil, olive oil, cottonseed oil, sweet almond oil and Neem seed oil, because all these oils are good for a healthy hair and scalp. Just to remind you, where the additives were used. I added the green blend into the water for the lye solution, the green clay into the oil mixture and the essential oils blend after mixing the lye solution into the oil mixture --and remember, it's imperative that you add the lye solution into the oil mixture and not the other way around. Something really important to address is the cure period for soap. After unmoulding and before it is considered good to be used, it has to sit between four to six weeks. Saponification itself takes not longer than 48 hours, but the soap is considered finished only after at least four weeks of cure, when the remaining water evaporates and the soap gets harder. The longer the cure period, the harder the soap. It will depend on the oils used to make the soap. If you want to enrich your soap and add a few more properties into it, I recommend infusing some medicinal herbs and flowers in one of your oils. I usually use olive oil for it. In this picture, you can see the the lavender infused olive oil that I used for this recipe. Well now let's talk about shampoo bars. There are two types of shampoo bars, soap-based and detergent-based. Soap-based shampoo bars have an alkaline pH between 8 and 11, whereas detergent-based shampoo bars have a slightly acidic pH between 4,5 and 6,5. And why is this important to know? Because skin pH varies depending on the area of our body that will have different bacterial flora regulating it, which is normal, and whenever unaffected means a healthy system. When using hair and skin products, it is essential to keep the pH of different body parts balanced. Our hair and scalp have a slightly acidic pH between 4,5 and 5,5. And this too we need to keep, otherwise we're going to affect the healthy bacterial flora that we have in our scalp and that can lead to weakening gloomy hair, dry and itchy scalp, dandruff, and even more serious skin problems. Hair is extremely sensitive to pH variations. And alkaline products alone can increase static electricity and cause cuticle and hair fiber damage. In fact, we are constantly using and in contact with external agents that promote alkalinity. So why, after all this explanation, would we use soap as shampoo? Wouldn't it be more harmful to our hair and scalp? you ask. Well, here is where the natural secret that I told you about comes - apple cider vinegar, or rather the oh so famous ACV Rinse! Which is basically rinsing our hair with an apple cider vinegar solution after using our shampoo bar. It is famous in the zero waste and natural cosmetics world for a reason. It is a worldwide famous home remedy. That includes our hair and scalp too. It doesn't end there. Our friend apple cider vinegar is rich in minerals good for our hair and scalp and has anti-inflammatory properties. So, how can we use this natural goodness again? - you ask. Make a solution with one part apple cider vinegar and five parts water. After shampooing, gently pour some solution onto your hair and massaged to spread it well on your hair and scalp. Let it sit for a few minutes and then rinse it out. And because it is always possible to step up your game, there is a way to improve the quality of the solution. Adding some more cool properties, to it! You can add some medicinal herbs and flowers into your vinegar and let it macerate for a couple weeks. Then you make the apple cider vinegar solution with that vinegar. And now the project! It's simple! Make the soap, use it and give us feedback. This soap is very versatile and can be used not only as shampoo, but also on your body and face. If you liked this class, check out my project, Wholly Joana. It's an environmental awareness, demystification of vegetarian diet and yoga project. The links to my social media are on this class and all my profile on Skillshare. You are welcome to visit them. It is scope of this project. I have three e-books to help you adjust to a more eco-friendly and healthier lifestyle. An household cleaning and personal care recipe e-book, an instructions manual on soap making using cooking oil - to reduce our waste and impact on the environment, and an instructions manual on wax wraps. Thank you for watching and take care.