Small Sewn Gifts: Insulated Lunch Tote | Melanie Smith | Skillshare

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Small Sewn Gifts: Insulated Lunch Tote

teacher avatar Melanie Smith, Sewing Pattern & Surface pattern designer

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (48m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Materials & Tools

    • 3. Cutting & Fuseing

    • 4. Make the Outside

    • 5. Make the Inside

    • 6. Assemble the Bag

    • 7. Turn & Close

    • 8. Closing Thoughts

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About This Class

Do you frequently take your lunch to school or work, or would you like to? Maybe you have a hard time finding a lunch bag that isn't a licensed character or a boring color. Do you wish you could have a lunch bag that really represents who YOU are? Maybe you want to make a unique gift for a teacher or student. 

In this class you will learn how to make your own insulated lunch tote out of materials you can find in most quilt shops and fabric stores. The best part is, you can make this bag out of a few fat quarters and/or fabric scraps!

Meet Your Teacher

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Melanie Smith

Sewing Pattern & Surface pattern designer


I am a sewing pattern and surface pattern designer. I've had four sewing patterns published in two issues of Stitch Magazine (Summer 2014 and the Unofficial Downton Abbey Sews Edition). Though my degrees are in Engineering, I've been sewing since I was 8 and knitting since I was 24. I regularly teach private sewing classes and summer sewing camps in the Austin, TX area, where I reside with my husband and 2 kids.

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1. Introduction: Hi there and welcome to small sewn gifts, so an insulated lunch tote. My name is Melanie Smith and I'm the owner of simply seemed a small sewing business in Austin, Texas. Today we will be making this lovely insulated bag. It has two straps and a zippered opening. Inside. It is fully lined with a waterproof fabric and it has insulating materials to help keep your food cold. The finished bag is 13 inches wide at the top, 8.5 inches tall, and the bottom is nine inches wide and four oranges deep. Other than the zipper, this bag requires no additional hardware, so it's a great one to try before delving into more complicated bags. It holds a lot more than you would expect and it makes a great gift, especially for teachers and students. But the best part is it'll be totally unique because you made it. So are you ready? Let's get started. 2. Materials & Tools: To make this bag, you will need the following materials and tools. One fact Porter or one-quarter yard of your favorite quoting fabric. You can also use a slightly heavier fabric like a lightweight canvas or lightweight denim. Just be sure what you use is a stable woven fabric, nothing too soft or drape B and not a knitted fabric. One fat quarter of your lining fabric. I prefer quilting fabric for this as well. But you can use any mid to lightweight, stable woven fabric. One-quarter yard of a heavy durable fabric for the base and the straps, heavy Denim Canvas and duct work. Well for this, you'll also need a 14 inch all-purpose zipper or pursue zipper. I like to choose one in a fun contrasting color. You'll need all purpose thread and top stitching thread in the colors of your choice. Three-eighths of a yard of insulated batting. I like to use this brand, it's called Insel bright, works really well and it's easy to find in most quote shops. 1.5 yard of a stable feasible interfacing, I prefer tell on 808 craft fuse because it gives a lot of Goodbody and strength. Five eighths of a yard, a feasible vinyl such as Heaton bond. This can also be found in most craft stores or local quilt shop. And one-quarter yard of Celtx. Celtx is a stiff syllable interfacing that will give structure to the bottom of your bag. The insula bright should be enough to keep your food cold. But if you are concerned, you can also add an extra layer of feasible fleece. If you decide to do this, you will need one-quarter yard of feasible fleece. Also as an option, you may use water resistant fabric such as polyurethane laminated fabric or nylon rip stop instead of the feasible vinyl and cotton mining. But I like to use the vinyl and the cotton mining because then I can be sure that the lining I pick matches really well with my outside fabric. And it just comes out looking a little bit cuter. You will also need the following tools. A glue stick, clips, or pins. Your choice. A rotary cutter, a see-through ruler, and a disappearing ink pen. And of course your trusty seem reaper. Next we will go over how to cut your materials. 3. Cutting & Fuseing: So let's go over how you will cut your pieces. I provided a cutting diagram in the class project section that you can follow, but you will end up with the following. In your main fabric. To pieces that are 13.5 inches by seven inches. In your craft fuse or other feasible interfacing to 13.5 inch by seven into rectangles. In your lining fabric to 13.5 inch by 11 inch rectangles. Your bottom fabric to 13.5 inch by 4.5 inch rectangles. Using the same fabric, you will cut your straps to 22 to 30 inch by four inch strips of your heavyweight fabric. I believe these are about 28 inches long. This measurement is flexible. It just depends on how long you want your strapped to be or that you want to be able to put it up on your shoulder or whether you just want to be able to hold it in your hand. For your bottom support, you will have two pieces of politics that are 13 inches by four inches. For your insulation. 213 inch by 10.5 inch rectangles. If you decide not to use a waterproof fabric and instead use a cotton fabric like I am, and then add waterproofing to it. For your vinyl, you will need to 13.5 inch by 11 inch rectangles. And if you decide to add additional insulation, you will need to 13.5 inch by 11 inch rectangles of feasible fleece. So next we're going to need to cut two corners out of our lining or insulation or waterproofing. The bottom base fabric, the Pell texts bottoms. And if you decide to use the additional insulation bat as well. Now what I've done is I've made a little two by two inch square out of some card stock or poster board, something a little bit stiffer than paper. And I'm just gonna go ahead and use that took up my squares. I'll go ahead and start with the CalTex. Now when you cut these, I'm just going to line up my two pieces on top of each other, so I only have to do it once. And you're going to cut the corners out of the two long sides. So you're not doing here and here, here and here. So just go ahead and line a little two-by-two square. And then take your rotary cutter. Now, if you're lining fabric has a pattern, you obviously don't want that to end up upside down in your bag. So just be sure that you're cutting these corners out of the bottom. So if my Fabric had a direction, then this would be the up direction and I would cut here. I'm gonna flip this though because I have the salvage edge here and I want that to be on the bottom. And one last step before we can start sewing is to do some pressing. So I'll meet you over at the ironing board. Okay, so now we're ready to INR straps and to fuse our feasible onto the fabric. So to iron your strap, you're going to end up folding this into fourths. So we'll begin first by just giving everything and good processing to make sure that there's no big giant wrinkles. And you're way never hurts to use a little bit of steam. And now, first thing you're gonna do, you're gonna fold it in half with your wrong sides together. And you're gonna press like that in X. You're going to open it back up. And now you're going to take one long edge and fold it in towards the edge, decrease that you just made. That you're going to leave just a tiny bit of space. So we're not going to go all the way up to that. Greece just a little bit away from it. And then we're going to press that now as you're going down and try really hard not to increase that first crest that you just made. And then repeat on the other side here. And then one last time you're going to fold all of these in and pulled everything in half again and press one last time. Now as you're going along, you can just check with your eyes or with your fingers to feel that these two folded edges our nicely lined up on top of each other and they're not you don't want to kinda, you don't want to iron it like this, whether Cricket, you wanna be sure that they're lined up. And if you happen to have one of these gases is called the clapper, they're super handy for making sure that your stuff stays iron down. Press down really hard, and smooth it out. And repeat for the other strap. The next thing you're going to do is fuse your outside fabric to your craft. Fuse Now be sure that you feel with your fingers and feel for the glue. So the glues a little scratch here. Then the other side that does not have the glue. So you're going to attach the craft fused to the wrong side of your fabric. So make sure the glue is up. And then your fabric is up. Line everything up, and press. And you'll do this for both your main fabric pieces. After you've done both of your main fabric pieces, you're gonna turn the heat down to more of like a middle range because we are going to fuse our vinyl. Two are lining. Now if you have a print, you want to attach the vinyl to the right side of your print because that print is going to be what is in your bag facing out and you want the vinyl to be the part that's gonna touch the containers that are going into your lunch bag. So you're gonna peel this paper away from the vinyl and it's going to be slightly sticky. It's not, you know, glue sticky. It is reposition Hubble, but it is sticky. So you're just going to line it up the shape. And then once you feel like you've got it lined up, well, you can just gently press it. Like I said, it's only a little bit sticky and it is repositioning form. And then you're gonna take the paper that you just peeled off and you're gonna put it down on top. And you don't want to iron the shiny side, you want to iron the mat side. Lined it up. You definitely do not want to accidentally touch your iron to the vinyl because then it's going to melt onto your eye iron and that's not going to be a fun thing to remove. And then just press down for eight seconds. And then you'll flip it and you'll just give it another good pressing from this side. So you're going to let that cool. And then once it's cool, you're gonna peel the paper Backoff and you will have waterproof fabric. So just repeat that for the other side. 4. Make the Outside: So now we're ready to actually begin sewing and we will start off with our straps. As you remember before, we've folded it up into fourths like this, four layers thick. And you're gonna go ahead and use your top stitching thread and a heavy duty denim needle because this really is a lot of layers to go through. And what you're gonna do is you're just gonna top stitch along each edge about open eighth of an inch away. And what that's gonna do is it's just going to secure your straps so that it stays closed. And as you go along, you just want to keep checking and making sure that your folded edges here are still lined up. And then you'll just repeat that for your other strop. What our next step is to attach the Pell texts to the bottoms of our bag. So you'll take one bottom strip and have it face down. So the inside is facing up. And then take one of your pal tech strips and you're going to line it up and you'll notice that the Pell tax is going to be about a quarter of an inch smaller all the way around, which is good, that's what you want. And the reason we have that is because when we go to so this bag together, we don't want the Pell techs to end up in our CME because it's going to be really bulky and awkward. And now what you're going to do is you're going to sew a line down here and then across, and then back up again. You're just securing this CalTex in place where it needs to be. And if you want, you can go ahead and measure and mark that. You don't have to. You can just eyeball it if you want to. I'm gonna go ahead and use this as my straight edge because my little ruler is not long enough. So I've made my lines and I'm basically going from the corner straight up, straight across, and then straight up, Oh, you're just going to sew along this purple line. And this is something that needs to be done with top stitching thread. So if you want, you can go ahead and switch back to a regular thread and sew it down. And you're gonna do the same thing with your other bottom and your other piece of Celtx. Okay. So now that you've attached the Pell techs to both of your bottoms and finished your straps. The next thing we're going to do is we're going to mark where we're going to place our straps on the outside of our bag. So you're going to want to make two vertical lines. Each one will be four and a quarter of an inch in from the short edge. And from the bottom, they're going to be 43 quarters of an inch tall. Now again, this is one of those situations where if your fabric has a direction, you just want to be sure that you're putting these lines in the right place. So for the purposes of this project, I'm making this the bottom of my fabric, even though this fabric really has no direction that looks good either way. But today this will be the bottom. So I'm going to make a mark four and a quarter inch in the market appear to four quarter-inch. It's hard to see on fabric. And I'm gonna make it 43 quarters of an inch tall. So that's here. So here's my line. And then I'm gonna make a little horizontal dash at the top of that line. Because when I put my strap on here, if I cover the line, I want to be able to know where that line ends. And then I'm gonna do the same thing on the other side. So four and a quarter in and then 12343 quarters high. And then a little dash. And you'll do the same thing on the other side. And so now when we get ready to sew our strap, they're going to line one edge of your strap. And you want to check to make sure that your top stitching thread two, it's probably hard to see. But this will be my outside because this is my top stitching Fred and I want that to be facing out. So I'm going to line the edge of my strap up with this line here. And I'm going to sew it down. I'm going to stop at this little horizontal mark that I made. I'm gonna go across and then down. And then I'm going to bring this strap around and I'm gonna make sure that it's not twisted. And again, I'm going to line the outside edge of that strap with that line. So the straps will be coming in toward the middle like this. And I'm going to sew this down and around. And when I get to this little horizontal mark, that's when I know it's time for me to stop and go in this way. So let's take this over to the machine and get it done. And now you're ready to sew with your top stitching grid again. As I mentioned previously, I'm gonna make sure that I've got my top stitching Thread Up, lining this up so that when I bring this around my straps or turn it around and go for it, I'm going to pivot when I get to that horizontal mark that I made it again. And then come down the other side. I'm going to bring the strap around making sure that it doesn't get twisted. Line it up and do the other side. You've got one strap attached. So you'll do the same thing with your other outside fabric and your other stuff. So after you've got your straps attached, now we're ready to attach our bottom to our main fabric. So you'll take that bottom fabric with the Celtx and you're going to place it face down on top of your fabric and make sure that everything is nicely lined up. And then you're going to stitch a quarter of an inch away, which should allow you to avoid caching the Pell techs. And you're gonna go all the way down. Now, normally you would want to switch back to a regular thread for this. But in the interest of saving time, I'm not going to do that. But I would recommend you do or have a second machine that does not have the top stitching threatening and do the same on the other side. And then after you've done that, you can just fold this over. And the next thing you're going to do is top stitch your seam allowance down onto where this delta x is. So if you want to press it with your fingers first, you can. And I like to do it from the front so I can see what I'm doing. But it does help to check every once in a while and make sure that you're actually slowing down your seam allowance. And you're just going to top stitch really close to that sewn edge there. Same thing on the other side. And so now you're fronts are complete. And if you decided that you did want to go ahead and add additional insulation to it with the feasible fleece. What you'll do is you'll go ahead and fuse that feasible fleece onto the back of this piece now that it's all been sewn together. So you'll also notice that the feasible fleece will come all the way to the edges of your fabric. And it's not going to these smaller the way the pelt xs. This is the next step where you would fuse it onto the outside of your bag, but there's a little trick to it. Now, fleece, the feasible fleeces need from polyester. So you don't want to put your iron directly onto it because if you do, it will mount. I'm not sure if you can tell, but I did that right here. So don't do what I did. I temporarily forgot that what you should do is use a pressing class now oppressing cloth is just any, a thin piece of fabric. Cotton would be ideal because it has a really high tolerance for heat. And you can just go ahead and put that on and then use your iron and just press down and then move it. Can even use a little steam if you want to. And so because you've got this nice cotton in between, you're not going to melt your feasible fleece and any scrap piece of cotton will do this is since actually Muslin of a shirt I was making, I still have a pin in here. The heat will go through. It just takes a little bit longer. And there you go. Now it's fused to the outside of your bag. 5. Make the Inside: Now that we've finished the outside of our bag, we're ready to work on the lining. You should already have the vinyl ironed onto the right side of your lining fabric. You're gonna flip that over and you're going to make just a few marks. Because what we're going to do is so the Insel bright onto the back of our lining. Now you'll notice again the insula Bright is about a quarter of an inch smaller than the lining fabric all the way around. So what we're gonna do is we're going to, so here, here and here, very similar to what we did with the PAL techs. But you're just going to want to mark those spots so that when we saw it, we're sewing it straight on. Now if you're not confident about these two fabrics shifting around, you can use the glue stick to temporarily glue the insult bright onto your lining fabric. Just be sure that you don't put any glue along here, here or here because you don't want it to get on your needle and then it's going to gum up your sewing machine. So just kinda stick to the middle. And I'm just kinda gonna press it on there. And we're good. And then I'm going to use my straight ruler here. And we mark those sewing lines. You'll do the same thing on the other lining. So now that you have both pieces marked, We're gonna take this over to the sewing machine and we're going to sew along those lines that we just drew. And that will keep these two together so that when we're adding in the zipper, it doesn't shift around on us. We're ready to, so you can go ahead and change back to your regular thread. You no longer need the toughest stitching thread, so you can go ahead and put that away. And I also switched colors to the lining color as opposed to the denim color that I was using before. So you probably want to do that as well. And we're just going to sew down these lines before I so I know what you're thinking. I'm about to punch a bunch of holes in my waterproof lining. Yes. However, this lining is not a 100% waterproof anyway, on these seams that we're going to make on the sides and down here, those are going to be leaked points. So really the intent of this lining is so that it's white bubble and water resistant, not so much waterproof. So don't freak out about punching a bunch of holes. Although I will say be super careful because once you punch a hole in the vinyl, you can't take it out. And if you have to go back and redo a seam, it's going to be pretty obvious that you had holes there. So when you're done, it'll look something like this. Another reason why we want to go ahead and attach this is once the bag is complete, Those are the fold lines. So it's just gonna make everything kind of sit in there a little nicer. Otherwise this fabric is so crunchy that it, it's really hard to kinda stuff it in there and get it to look nice. So repeat that on the other side. Now we're ready to attach our lining and are outside fabrics, tour zipper and put everything together. 6. Assemble the Bag: Now we're ready to put our bag together and attach the zipper and the lining and the outside all at once. What you'll do is you'll take your lining and you'll lay it in front of you right-side up. So that will be the waterproofed vinyl coated side. Then you'll take your zipper and you'll put it on top of your lining, also with the zipper facing up. Now, your zipper is going to be a little bit bigger than your lining. So just center it as best you can like. So now you can see I've got my zipper head here and the zipper stop there at the end. And then you're going to take your outside of the bag. And it's helpful if you pin your strap down like this just to get it out of your way. So I'm going to snag a pin and do that. So now it's not going to annoy us. And then you're gonna put the outside face down. So again, lining is face up, zipper is face up. Outside is face down. And you're going to line it up with your zipper. Andrew lining, everything together like so. Now you're going to have to clip this in place and it's going to be really slippery because this vinyl is really slippery. I usually just use clips for something like this. But since this is so slippery, I am going to throw in a few pins just so the zipper doesn't move around too much on us. Okay, now we're ready to pin it or clip it. Your preference? I like to do each end first just to make sure I'm really lined up. And then I'll do them at all. And you are clipping through all layers. So now we'll take this over to our sewing machine. We're gonna make sure we have our zipper foot on our machine. And we're going to sew along as close to the zipper teeth as we can get all along this top edge. I'll meet you back at the machine. Okay? Now that you've fed everything pinned or clipped in place, we're ready to start sewing. Again, be sure you've got your zipper foot here and your zipper foot should be to the right of your needle. Make one more check just to be sure that everything is still lined up. And the good thing is the zippers just long enough so that I don't need to move my zipper head back and forth when I'm sewing. But if you happen to have a shorter zipper or if you're making your bag a little bit longer, you may at some point need to move the position of the zipper to be able to get past it. And I'm feeling with my fingers to make sure that I'm getting as close to the zipper teeth as possible. And I'm still checking to make sure everything's lined up. There's a high potential for shifting in this step. And be careful not to so through your finger. Now you'll just want to check and make sure that you caught everything the way you were supposed to. Now, I feel like in some spots I got a little bit too far away. See like right there and right there. So I'm going to redo those two swaps. And I'm actually going to come at it from the other side this time because it's easier for me to see where I sort of veered off in the wrong direction. Ok, that's better. And now your next step will be to, so the seam allowance here to your lining because you don't want your lining to accidentally fold up and get stuck on your zipper. So you're going to make sure that your zipper and the outside of your bag, or going to the left, your seam allowances to the right. You're folding the lining on top of the seam allowance. And now you're just gonna get in close and go all the way down and catch that seam allowance and make sure that it sows onto this lining. Gets a little sticky. It isn't really like to move along on the vinyl. It's all sewn down. So now this will get up in here and interfere. Now we're going to line up our zipper and our other half of the lining and the other half of the outside of the bag with the top. So I'll meet you back over on the cutting table and won't get that done. Now we're ready to put the other side of our lunch bag together. You're gonna follow basically the same process that you followed before. You're gonna take your lining with the vinyl side facing up. You're going to grab this assembly that you made previously. And you're going to also have it with the zipper tape facing up here and a line that tap here like so. And I'm gonna go ahead and put in a few clips. Or you can use pins so that it doesn't slide around on the vinyl and I put the other side on. And then here's our other outside that's gonna go face down. You're gonna make sure that not only is it lined up with the top edge here, but you also want it to be lined up with the side edge of your other outside fabric. So now that everything's clip, we're ready to put this in our machine and we're going to so next to the zipper teeth all down this top edge of our bag. Again, just like before, we're going to put this under your foot and you're just going to sew down, checking to be sure that your zipper doesn't shift around too much and tried to stay as close to those upper teeth as you possibly can. It's gonna be a little harder to use your fingers to feel this time. But just take it nice and slow and you'll get it. So let's check and see how that came out. That looks pretty good. I don't think I need to fix anything here this time and now we need to so the lining to the seam allowance. So grab your lining and just let everything kind of fall out of your way. With everything everything everything to your left except for the lining and the seam allowance, which will be to the right. We're gonna go ahead. And so that lining to the same allowance and the zipper tape. Take it nice and slow and helps to kind of pull it apart a little bit so that you are sure that this is nice and flat. So I'm just kinda giving it a little bit of an outward pressure. The next step will be, first and foremost, unzip your zipper. And you'll probably want to take it almost to the very end, give yourself about two inches there. If you take it all the way to the end, then it's going to get in your way when we're sewing around our bag and put your outsides together and you're lining together. Everything is meeting in the middle like this. And what we're gonna do is we're going to sew this side, this one long side, the short side of your outside, and the other long side. And when you get to where you're about to cross over your zipper tea, just take it slow and don't be afraid to use your hand to move the needle up and down manually. You'll want to feel for the team and make sure that you're not trying to so through the plastic zipper teeth. I like to try to make sure that everything's lined up. I kind of want these two bottoms edges to just until line up there. So let me go. Oh, and I forgot to change my foot, so we'll do that. Go back to your regular foot. You're done with your zipper foot. So I want to one quarter inch seam allowance all the way down. This is a lot of layers. So just be sure you have a nice heavy duty needle in your machine, like a size 16 or 18. I'm going to throw in a few clips here just to keep these layers from sliding around on each other. Now I'm about to come to my zipper teeth. So I'm gonna use my hand so I can be sure. Don't break my needle and or past it. So now I'll just keep going. And if you catch a tiny bit of your insulation in this seam, it's okay. It's not a big deal. Now I'll be my outside bottom part may get a little tough and get a lot of layers here. And we have that Pell techs that we're trying not to. So let's see how we did kind of veered off here. We went from less than a quarter of an inch. So I'm just going to fix this little section right here where my seem, wow, it's got a little small. And last but not least, the other long side. You're lining bottom is going to be a little bit different. We're going to be turning our bag right side out through an opening here. But before we can do that, we do need to based it closed because we'll need it to be closed so that we can box are corners on the bottom. So what I like to do is I'll do a quarter-inch same quarter seam allowance. Also a little bit. Then I'll go to a Basing stitch and then I'll go back to my regular stitch length. And then all the way to the end. And I'm going to back stitch. Every time I start and every time I switch from a regular stitch length to a basic stitch length. So I'm going to back stitch here. I'm going to go about an inch and a back stitch. Now i'm going to lengthen. I'm gonna go all the way. My machine goes all the way up to six millimeters. You just go as long as yours will let you. And then right about here, I'm gonna go back to a 2.5 millimeter stitched link and the backstage. And then take it to the end. And backs such again. So here's how you box your corners. You are going to take this bottom seem and this side seam. And you're going to open up. You're gonna open it. It's kinda like a little fish mouth. You're gonna open up the fish mouth and then close it back up again. Like this. It's kinda awkward, but it'll work. And sometimes you really need to push this, these parts out so that you can get this part really flat. So it's gonna look like this. And so now we're going to sew across here. So I've got my seam allowance pointing in one direction on one side and the opposite direction on the other. And then those seams will snuggle right up next to each other. So again, it's a little awkward. You can do it. Just take your time and really push it, smash it down in a back stitch, and then go all the way across and do the same thing on the other side. So there's your lining. I'm going to do the same thing to the outside corners, but I'm going to switch my thread because I don't want this pink possibly showing on the seam on this dark blue denim. So I'm gonna switch to a darker thread. Now I'm ready to box my other corner. Again, you're just going to push push those two seams together, one quarter inch seam allowance. These seams are going to be a little harder to snuggle up against each other because there's just so much bulk. But do the best you can. Same thing, other side. 7. Turn & Close: Now what you'll do is you're gonna rip out the base setting that you had here. And we're going to reach in, we're going to grab our bag and we're going to pull everything right side out. So this is why it was really important to open that zipper first. Because if your zipper was closed right now, there'd be no way to turn it right side out and watch out for those pins. May want to try to grab them and pull them out first. Those pins that we're holding your strap. Before flipping the bag rights and don't forget to cut off the extra zipper tape extending beyond the seam allowance. And this is the tricky part, flipping everything right side out. And this is not a huge opening here. And there's a lot of stiffness. So just take your time and get frustrated. Sometimes grabbing the handles and pulling it out through the handles works well. Put your hand inside and push everything out. Use your fingers to push these corners out. Now here you can unzip your bag a little further. Last thing you wanna do is push the corners out of your lining. And now yes, this is all looking super wrinkly, but it's still effective. So we're gonna do its job and once it's tucked inside, it's going to be okay. And now last but not least, we need to close this. So what I like to do is fold in civil the holes are that we made when we did the basing can fold along that line these together. And now you're just going to sew across here close to the edge, catching those two layers of fabric. And possibly a little bit of the insulation, which is fine. Last but not least, shove everything back inside. And there you have it. An insulated lunch tote in a really cute fabric of your choice with a matching lining. Unfortunately, when filming this class, I forgot to cut the excess zipper tape before flipping the bag writes made out. If you make the same mistake, this is how to fix it. I was flipping the bag right side out and having trouble sipping it as a pilot, having so much trouble getting this. I realize I forgot to cut the tabs, that extra zipper tape away, but have no fear this can be saved. Rip out this scene, cut those things out, and we'll be fine. But I wanted to be sure that I told you that that needs to be done before you turn it right side out. And we go making the hole as little as possible to all this extra zipper tape right here. Cut it off. And I'm using paper scissors for this one. So again, do this after you've sewn around the bag, but before you flip it right side out, cut off that extra. So I'm gonna close this scene backup again. Push it back inside. And this time it'll zip together much more nicely. So much better. 8. Closing Thoughts: Well, there you go. You are done. Put some food in it, carry it around and be proud. You'll see that after you've turned it right side out, this outside might be a little bit wrinkly and funny. So you can go ahead and just give it a quick pressing or some steamy. You don't even have to get the iron right up close to it. In fact, I think would be a really cool experiment. It puts something cold in here and then iron it and see if the installation really works, right? Of the kinda fun. You're fully lined. Waterproof. Well, I shouldn't say waterproof water resistant bag is done. So if you liked this tutorial and found it helpful, don't forget to give it a thumbs up and write a review, share it with your friends so that they can also make themselves a really cool insulated lunch to see you next time.