Simple Leaf Drop Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare
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12 Lessons (1h)
    • 1. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings

      1:59
    • 2. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - materials

      0:53
    • 3. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - equipment

      3:49
    • 4. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 5. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - sawing

      8:01
    • 6. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - filing

      6:11
    • 7. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - sanding

      7:07
    • 8. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - preparing the stems

      4:57
    • 9. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - soldering

      8:27
    • 10. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - finishing the stems

      11:00
    • 11. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - shaping the leaves

      2:40
    • 12. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - final thoughts

      1:24

About This Class

Mix together a simple leaf shape sawn from silver sheet, some soldering, hammering and a little help from a few pairs of pliers and you end up with a beautifully simple and oh-so-wearable pair of Simple Leaf Drop Earrings!

This is a great class to help you learn (or refresh!) your sawing skills and for helping you to progress your soldering skills too. Unusually, the ear wires in this earrings design are soldered to the front of the main design rather than the top or the back as an important feature of the design.

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This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me. In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is an intermediate class as previous experience of soldering is useful.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers most of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #43 in the #52earrings challenge.

Transcripts

1. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings: Hello, My name's John. Tell me I'm a joy designer and shooter from the South Coast UK and welcome system, probably fearing house. The projects that are going through with you in this class is, as you can see, a pair off, very simply shaped leaves on. Unlike most of my hearing classes, the ear wire is going to be soldered onto the front off the leaves. Usually I sold the year. Why either to the chopper is a sign or to the back, so it can't be seen from the front. But this time we actually want the ear while to be part of the design. The section of why that goes across the front belief is going to form a central brain of the leaf, and they continue up into the stem that's going to form a year. I'm also going to hammer that front section of why likely as well, twice a little bit of extra interest. I rate it this class as an intermediate one because although the soaring of the leaf shape is actually quite simple, straight forward this soldiering to get that join of the wire on top of the leaf really nice and Neech without any soldiers reading out. Becoming unsightly does take a little bit more. Practice a little bit more confidence with your soldiering skills. This class is passed the 52 areas Chance I set myself in 2017 design and film tutorials for 52 different pairs of earrings. Pavel account on Instagram and Facebook for the HASHTAG 52 hearings to see behind the scenes photos on hints and tips about what's coming next. So if you're ready to get started, let's have a look at the materials and equipment that we're going to need to make the area . 2. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - materials: theory. Materials that you're going to need to make these hearings are some not 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge studies. So around wire, and that's going to form the ear wise, which lead on from the stem that sold it on top off the leaves on it. To make believe themselves, you're going to need some stunning silver sheet. I've got no 0.5 millimeter sterling silver sheet. That's about 24 gate sheet. That's probably the thinness that I'd go for this project. You can go up to, say, maybe 240.7 millimeters thick. With any thicker than that, you're going to have difficulty doing the shaping on the earrings, shaking on the leaves that we're going to do towards the end of the project. 3. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - equipment: the's tools that we're going to need to make the simple e earrings. I'm going to use the green templates that you can see here to mark a teardrop shape with simple leaf outline onto the sterling silver. Andi, I'm going to drawing that line using my ultra fine tip Sharpie. This template is one of a set of two that I've got that is full of all the different gemstone shapes. Andi most common sizes that you can get its official job is to help designers when they are drawing out pieces of jewelry for customers. But the shapes on there are great. Forgive new ideas for soaring out of metal sheet as well. If you don't have a template with a teardrop or leaf shape on it, then you could use for their part in your computer, or maybe even draw one out yourself. What's the shapes marked out? I'm going to sort them out of the silver sheet using your sore on. I'm going to support my work on the bench. Paige, as I saw it out the apron underneath will catch or the bits of silver that were four downs . I'm soaring, cert. I could rush them into my scrap pot. I'm going to use the ruler on and the Sharpie to mark out how much why I need. For the ear wise, it's also going to form a standing across the leaves, and I'm going to cut off that wire using the wire cutters. I'm going to use the plan ish ing hammer to hammer two sections of the earrings. I'm going to likely hammer the stem that's going across the leaf, and I'm also going to hammer section the ear wives to give them a bit of extra strength while some hammering the silver phones to be supported on the bench block with the leather cushion underneath, but that the cushion will buy support the benchmark and keeps a noise sound of it. A swell. I'm going to form the U shape in the ear wires around the middle section of the step Mandel , although if you don't have one of thes, then anything rounds the barrel of a sharply or pizza Dowling or even a knitting needle will do the job just as well. I'm going to use the needle file to file around the edge of the leaf and also to file the ear wires right at the end of project, so they're nice and comfortable for going through the holes in your ears. After I follow the edges of the leaves, I'm going to make sure that the back in front of them are really nice and smooths of free of scratches as I could possibly make them. I'm going to do that before I sold the sender on middle, because basically, it will be easier to do it beforehand, and after that I'm going to use it. Siris of six polishing papers. Or might ramesh papers sometimes called to do that? The grits of the papers are listed in the class details, while some using them. I'm going to support the silver on the black rubber block that you can see here because it's a nice slip proof surface to work on. It's easy to support silver on it, but because it's nice and smooth, it's going to protect the silver from any more scratches. I'm going to be using the wife us again to trim off the ear wise if needed. Andi, I'll use the flat nose pliers on the nine on job lives to fair shaping the ear wires. The Nile and your players will also be used to give a nice shape to the leaves to bring them to life a little bit more. These earrings were sorting for jets, so let's also have a look, a soldier equipment that we're going to need to make them. 4. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - soldering equipment: I think this is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, Everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier, move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans. Since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - sawing: a so you can see for the piece of silver. I've already used my template on my ultra fine point Sharpie, too. You're that teardrop shape twice onto my piece off, no 0.5 millimeter sheet on, and that is going to fall the outside my leaves. The next job I need to do is use a jeweler's saw to saw these out. I've tried to make the best use off the sheets I possibly can so that I've got the least amount going into my scrap pot as possible. Because although I will obviously recycle the scraps that's left over, it will be nice to get the most out of this piece of nice, clean freshman supply sheet is possible. I've attached a pdf with hints and tips to help you get the best out of your jewelers. Sore on to help you get your soaring nice and smooth and accurate, uncomfortable as possible to the class materials, so do down low that have a look at it. But just to run through just a couple of tips you First. You want to make sure that you are keeping your jewelry sore upright because if you wished is an angle, it's actually more difficult to turn corners on. You're more like to put the blade. It is the down stroke that cuts. But you want to make sure that you're not putting pressure on the blade that you're just guiding. It happened down. It will be forward on its own. If you start putting pressure on it, you're here. Difference is sadly demonstrate that for your moment of the base, more like to get stuck on. Great. You want to make sure that you're supporting your work on the wooden bench Pake as well, so that it makes life just makes life a lot easier on. And that's the reason why I have a triangle wedge cutting to my bench picks so that I could hold the silver in place and still get Julius sore there. So the other last chip to tell you is it. You want to turn the silver? I'm not turn the Thewlis sore is your soaring China, but she cant hit so facing forward and down nicely. Try and views as much of the celebrators possible. It's not little what it's like. That nice long strokes is more efficient and also means that you're not just going to blunt a little bit of the blade. We're going to make the best use out of all of it. So I'm just gonna be my chair in a little bit more on get going. So come going to cut this one first? Andi, I'm going to go. I'm like, handed. I tend to go anti clockwise around a shape because he just makes it easier for me to see everything on this side. My blade isn't hiding any work for me. Catch a couple of No, she's upwards. So that's Adele Stroke. That cut sometimes. Do you not shut quits? Well, how do you get better purchase on the sheet that he start? I think this is a nice, smooth noise that you should be listening out for. That's good. This noise is bad. That noise I gotta have actually probably stuck on that noise. I got it, sir. Just putting a tiny amount of pressure on the saw blade on the blade court on Got stuck. It was stopping a starting, and then it got stuck. So don't professionally. Just that played to do the work for you groups. That's the downside of cutting out a very small piece of sheet. Sometimes they would hold on to it. - What's to say that by not pretty Any pressure blade Never get it stuck, says Tricky. When you got a graceful way go. So that's the first leaf First teardrop shape would assume you leave. Cut out, they got told. With 2nd 1 now coming from the side says like against Starship Tick, go around That way we can, but he's my found together. There's two leaves and you may have noticed fordo a little bit of wood as well, just to prove that the bench pick does get sewn into as well as it out here so we could is a consumable. It is something that will wear out eventually, but they do last a long time. So the next Sandy to do with these is too file to teaching up the edges. 6. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - filing: Now that leaves a cut out. I want to file the edges just so refined and smooth the shape, and also to remove the marks left by the purists or blade. I want to make the edges a lot smoother. Anita Andi. That's what the needle, if I would do, I'm going to leave. The blue plastic coating on the silver for a zone is possible because that way, if my file slips it, all I said was protection On the surface. I'm going to sweep around like so. But if I come across a Southern point where it's not smoothly curving, which I think that's probably these are is a pretty good, but that's probably the most stubborn point. They're always go across like that. So to give a little bit more effort to that spot, I'm just following the shape that I cut out. It's supporting silver between my finger and some supporting it firmly. Remember the files, any work going one way that looks nice and smooth Now, use my fingers just to feel this is nice and smooth, because I think it's a little bit more here we go on, also just going to very gently round off the tip off the teardrop shape but soon going relief up here because I don't want that to be sharp. So what it takes now, last things I'm going to do now with the file IHS some take off blue coaching I can get hold rich, Let me go on the firing and soaring The psych done has produced some buzz at the edge. So I'm just gonna get rid of those with file. So we're holds the file at about 45 degree angle to the edge, just going to sweep across like, so just get rid of them very easily that it means that the sounding that I will do next stage it would be a little bit quicker because I won't have to send off those ages. Will do the same to the other side. Yeah, go call feeling more birds now. So it's the 1st 1 done each exactly the same to the 2nd 1 No. Well, Slice and Smith also the station's gonna hold the two up against each other. Yes, I'm a They're a nice match. If they were obvious differences between the two, then I would do a little bit more filing on one. Or maybe both schism to get Just get better. Much. - Okay , So one two leaves cut out filed. The next job is to send thumb. 7. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - sanding: although the leaves that I've cut out aren't you don't got to me swatches of baby fine scratches on their that because you could really get away with leaving those their own. Just soldering the stems on top of the leaves on forming the ear. Wise, however, id like a really nice smooth surface to these leaves. Andi. So I sent some polishing papers by lovely students. I thought that it would be nice opportunity to show them to you as well, said these a parting papers, or sometimes called micro mash to see 67 cars, six different grades. And they are very, very fine. In the class descriptions. I will write down the grades off the six different publishing papers. They come in much larger sheets. In this, I've just cut off a little snippets to work with. As you can see, I've written a little number in each corner as well. 126 because I'm forever forgetting which one comes next. Whilst I'm working on the leaves, I'm going to support some on Sir Hard Rubber Block. It's a nice firm surface, but it's not going. Teoh Cook putting more scratches, and it's soft enough not to put any scratches? A. So what we need to work on just one time. Make sure that there's no debris on there, too. On and blue ones. The 1st 1 to use is that the same as you would with emery paper, but they just give a really lovely finish. My time. You've worked through the mall exciting to get so almost a mirror finish rather and go all over the place with them. I tend to go back in force in one direction on then at right angles. One side don't going to turn over the brick to do the other site just so that I tip off any debris that's on there because I don't want to put this leaf on top off little bits of silver. This have come for the party and paper because it's the leaf moved about on top of them. They get scratches. Be a shame to put more scratches in when you flush him out the same again. Second grade. Just get into the habit of each time you turn the leaf over of making sure that there's no Deborah. Just get the the rubber block, a quick brush to make sure she's lost in clean, by the way. Probably noticed. I haven't sped up this Peter film as I do sometimes when I'm doing repetitive tasks like this, because sometimes it is nice for you to see actually how long something takes in real life onto the fist peace. Now, well, I can see a really difference to the last piece, - so even from this distance should be able to see. So I moved from about two. The lights. That's this one on the left, it's, Ah, a lot smoother, more polished, shiny appearance on this one. So next job, I won't make you what you told again. You can go rewind it if you really want What's so again, My next job is to give this one the same treatment with those six polishing papers, and then I'm going to solder the stem onto the leaves. 8. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - preparing the stems: I've cut to 6.5 centimeter links off the North 0.8 millimeter stunning silver around wire. Andi, I'm going to solder one piece on top of each leaf. Usually I solder the ear wise to the back, but this time I'm going to sold them to the front. Certainly form of stem going down part way through the down the leaf on. Then I'm going to turn most of the rest of the wire into the air wise. However, before I sold him in place, there's a couple things that I need to do on going to use the needle. File a Sharpie to do those jobs 1st 1 is that I'm going to make sure that one on one end wasn't much about both ends, because I might need to trim off the other end later. Wrong before I sell for me, the ear wise. But I want to make sure that one end, at least of the wire, is nice and smooth and rounded so that that's going to look a lot neater once it's up against silver because I'm still not going to be out to do anything with it. A lot for the end of it once it's sort in place, but I do want to make sure it looks its best, So Skin used needle file. This is exactly same as I do when I need to know the wire for an ear wire. So just twisting a why around and my fingers fingers. So supporting most of it so it doesn't get some event we're making short. It's really nice, smooth, rounded can using my fingers of my eyes taking my time doing this because with a near wire , there's always the opportunity. If you realize that you haven't got it, the smooth as you could have done. And you know when you put tried, put it to your ear, you could go back into a bit more firing once this a soldier in place on the leaf. I'm not good at fighting more, so he's one dumb happy with that one. Andi can't do the same with the 2nd 1 Okay , so that's the first bit of preparation. Dull. The second bit is that I want to put a Sharpie mark on each stem to show how far down it's going to go stand the leaf. So please, with that length. I don't want it to go right down the bottom. I like the idea of it. Finishing part way up so I'm going to do now is use the shell Peter's to mark the stem at the point where it crosses over the top of the leaf the way Yeah, help you with that. Some hold it in place. It's my finger. Just put Mark with Sharpie now, rather than trying lying up the 2nd 1 all the leaf from the same place. And by the way, I'm just don't checking that. Those are the two rounded and say are so I'm going to use the first piece of what us are going for marking second. So those are now the same preparations done wise. Cut five neatly at the end of March, How far down belief they want to go. So my next job is to solve them in place 9. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - soldering: I thought both the leaves on the stems over to the soldier sensation. Put him safely or soldering block because it's time, obviously, to sold them together. You should still be able to see the marks that are on the stems. Remember, these are the marks indicate how far down the leaf the stem is going to be sold it on. I've also put a rough line down the center off each leaf, so that gives me another going to where the stem should go. Remember that sharp you Mark isn't going to inhibit the flow off the soldier, although one of the things that soldering does need is clean metal. By the time you get up to soldering temperature, those shopping marks would have burned off, and they will no longer be there to inhibit the flow of the soldier. Now you can use either little pieces of soldier, the solid soda, Palin's and separate flux to solder the stent in place. Or you can use solder paste. Doesn't matter which you do, but whichever you choose, you can use easy soldier because this is the only soldier join that you're going to need to do. I'm going to use easy solder paste on dso. Going to do is just put a little bit. Oh, usually, soldier, I want too much. Oops. But in the middle there, as well I'm trying to do is not to see a line of easy soldier. They're going up to, well, close to the Sharpie marks. I'm being careful not to take it further and Sharpie marks, So it's actually not gone. Spread that shot from a bit more. It's not going quite up to it. I'd rather not go quite up to it, then go a little bit too far up because if I went to pass the shopping mark, I don't up with solder on the past standards. I want to remain clean. So what I've done is pushed a little bit of easy solder along the section to stem that I want to put on the leaf. However, I'm not going to place it there now. I don't want to that paste to be spread out. What I'm going to you do is use the small blowtorch to mount that soldier in place. Now. If you were to use aside soda, Palin's instead, what she would do would be to dip this in the flux, coats the tip of the of the flux, have some pieces off et solder lined up on the fiber and hold the silver up against the soldier. Was she just melted? Hm in place on the end. That's how I do it. Because that way I get the soldier exactly where I wanted it to be. So whichever way you actually applying solder to stem melting it to stem and then re melting it once everything's together as soon as the soldier has amounted and flown out, which I has there, it hasn't so tin. I can still see it sitting a little bit proud of stem to send its melting started flower. That's a point at which to take the heat away. That's just what hands Because I want, um, stem in my right hand. My dominant hand. I'm just going to make sure that everything is lined up nicely. I can still see the shadow of the mark, although it's so it's factually burnt off. I can still see the shadow of the pen mark just about on here so I can hold it in place Now , this time now that off against you can hear me better. I checked this exquisite lined up properly because I moved us out of the way a little bit so I can put some heat into the leaf because that's the biggest piece. And then I'll bring the stem back down again and see that silver changing color on the mark starting to go. Hold us in place and making sure that that section stem is live for at a long silver. There we go. No, what I was looking for if I get my Peckham point with the hatch. Rather, my finger once I was looking for was a nice lying a soldier for going out along that stem, which is what's done there. You can see a lighter line there, Onda on the other side. It stayed lighter because there's no copper in the solder paste. There's no copper to get oxidize, so it doesn't go that dark, oxidized color, so that one is ready. I'm still going to leave it on the solving break because I want to use that just to help me make certain that I, um, making the 22 hearings as identical as I possibly can. So again, just going to apply a little bit of easy soldier to one side step, trying to get to spread out for miles and have it is a lump tough to use a soda pick to help me move it out. I don't want to join in one lump, because that would mean that I might have some silver. So I saw soldiers spreading out onto the leaf itself rather than just a nice line up against the stems I've got in that first hearing, Andi, if all the silver, so for the soldier again, is in one bit of the stem seven just in the middle section, there are not at either end around one soldier to be, then the stem might not soldier aware long. But how through that you to see the soldier that so again in the reverse action trees is so I can hold everything safely and I'm going to melt soldier onto that step. We go. Most in place. Show happens how everything's lined up. They're heating relief. That's the biggest piece of metal. Leave number two definitely look a lot more like leaves now, so those both need to be quenched to make sure they're cool. They need to go in the Peckham, Parcher to clean up before I can fish off the stem, let's across the leaf and turn the long section of stem into an ear while in each hearing. 10. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - finishing the stems: the leaves are now fresh and clean after pickle on There's a Nice Lies soldiers that you might get to see in the camera. I've had to zoom out a little bit so you can see the rest of what I'm going to do. But if you remember from the previous section of the Nisei soldier on both sides on because I just soldier on the stem already in a rematch, the soldier I haven't ended up with any excess soldier spreading out according unsightly blob, see the side of the stand it all nice and neat. By the way, if you do notice, even at this stage that you've got an unsightly gap between the stem and leaf, then you can go back and fix it. If you've use a separate soldier and flux, then officer after taking them back over to the service station, put a little bit of flux on the offending leaf and reheated gently making sure that you moved flame up and down the stem to help draw the soldier out along it. If you have you sold a paste like I have, you won't need to add an extra flux that will actually still be a little bit little bit a residual bit there, even after its bean in the pickle on doll you'll need to do is just again. Gently heat up, making sure that you pass the flame back and forth along the stem again to helps for right that soldier out. Now, what two things had in a section. The class I want to flatten out the stem that's on the leaf little bit, and I also want to finish off the air, y so or I'm going to do to flatten off the stem issue. Might have guessed that fact. I've got the hammer out on the bench block. It's just junk. Lee Hammer, just a section of while That's going across the stem. That was, I'm going to make sure site do is keep the hammer so that it's nice and upright or not. Tip it over to one side or another, because that way I would just make sure that the hammerhead hits the wire on, doesn't tip over on hit. They still with sheets that's making up the leaf input unsightly marks, and that so doesn't take to me hammer strokes, and you can start off quite gently and build up a little bit more pressure, a little bit more hammering to get the look that you want if you want to. You could see there's a stem that section Stone was actually catching a light now where it didn't before. Fine putting that one back as a comparison. That one definitely stays catching the lights. I moved about its bit shiny, and now because I've hammered it, whereas this one is still rounded out. What, you're going to hammer that just a little bit more. It's to show you that you can go back and add a little bit more if you want to. I'm happy with that now. So same to the 2nd 1 I'm getting too much. So I get a bit more hammering on this one. Yeah, I'm happy with that. They both match nicely. So what I've done is just really decided a little bit of extra interest. This bits optional. If you don't want to do this part, you don't have to. But I could like the look for tickets, so next seem to dio I'm going to need that Hammer and bench broke again in a moment, but moved out the way a little bit. Next thing I need to do is to finish off the ear wires on going to use nine on your pliers to make sure that why is nice and straight. Hold the earrings back to back, making sure that they the tips 11 the bottom surface. I can check that the stems are same length, which they're not. Decide this one's a little bit longer. Just kind of slipped them both. Just stop for a little bit. Didn't vote at the same time. So they are now the same length and even those little bits of silver they can see there are going to end up in the scrap pot. So now there the same links. I'm going to use the middle step on the Mandrell to start Tony here. One. The first Andi you know quite happy with with that links of hearing. So we start bending the Y at that point. Yeah, that's nice things. Not to too long a drop. And also that means that the ear y finishes its a nice distance down there. I wouldn't want to finish the ear y too high up. I think it makes Vestas. I look unbalanced. Basically, it looks as if, Oh, books. I didn't have a long enough piece of white for my ear. What? I quite like it to finish off a little bit further down here. That's the 1st 1 second, as always, start. It's a bend. The wire around on. Then shuck it. Now, this is probably only theseventies occasion in these hearing video classes that I've actually my chance Got it exactly the right length, right? First time quite often. Either is too long, too short. If this section here was too long, I put it back on the Mandel. I'd start bending that using up that links a wide orbit more if it was too short here tonight. Have to use an island, your plans just to pull it out straight again and start again. But the wise pretty forgiving. But that is the right Think so I'm going to do is just use my finger to push the rest that wire around. And then we've got to Lisa starting to look a lot more like hearings. The next job icis. I want to use the straight those supplies or flat no supplies. Just use the width of the pliers just to pull out. Flick back the end of that year. Y I think it gives a more professional, more finished appearance to the earrings. I always use the sale hires to do this job. I just use the wit system to measure from the end of the wire, just pulled back slightly to put a kink or flick in the end. There, so two drops after dough I'm going to do first is to use the clashing hammer again on Bench Block just to hammer that's section of the U shape so that I put a little bit more strength in to it asserted, holding shape better. It's good to hold the rest of the hearing off the edge of the bench book so the leaf doesn't get damaged. I was eight or nine times strokes. All that was needed, same with the other one that's just flattened out the front of the U shaped. They're made that shape. Lots spring out a lot stronger allows. I've done that. I can use the needle file to safely fire the end of the year wire. Andi, I'm far, far less likely to pull the long, ear y outer shapes. I do. So now I have already strengthened that section there. Use your fingers as much as your eyes. So make sure that you've course everything nice and slows was one to So the earrings you could believeth um, like that you could say they're finished now, but I actually want to do a little bit more to them. You could leave from flat, but I want to do this, which is shaping gibbering those leaves to life on. That's going to be in the next section class. 11. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - shaping the leaves: you probably guessed already for the fact I've got a pair of nylons, your pliers in view. It's an island. Your place I'm going to use to help to put the shaping in the leaves. So I said you could leave them for that. But I like to put it a bit of curving to them because, let's face it, most leaves in real life. Do you have a little bit of curve to them? They're not completely flat since bitch not too difficult. And it's something that you can do a little bit of time. You can put a bit of a curving if you don't like it. If it's not curved enough, you've been added a little bit more. If you want to, I'm going to do, making sure supporting the rest of the leaf spring finger in some that's going to grip with the night on your pliers on the other side and just bend them up a little bit. Hold it that way. Well, just blend it up and put on a little bit. Have a curve. We can see what I moved it around. It's no longer completely flat. In a generally frowned do exactly same on the other side and hold it across this way as well. Now a little bit of a curve. Let's say I moved around Andi. We comparatively when that I haven't touched yet, can see the difference. It's quite a subtle curve, but that's all that's really needed. And to do the same to this one. It's worth checking that, you know, curved fairly even amount of catching. This very first side that I did could do thing a little bit more. So I think, What's the Polish? They're going to catch the light better than a flat pair of leaves would have done as well . So the only thing left for these earrings is to give him a nice polish. You could use a polishing cloths, but as I've got a temper polisher, I'm going to pop them in there and give them a nice shine. 12. Simple Leaf Drop Earrings - final thoughts: Well, I've got another lovely pair of earrings to add to my collection. Andi, I hope you soon will too. I hope that you've enjoyed the class. Andi. I hope that you've now got another soldier in technique to use in future projects as well. Always try and teach you something new in each class. Not just show you a new design. This class is a great one to adapt. Although I've left my silverleaf smooth and plain with a nice polish to it. You could add a texture either with texture stumps or hammers or by sending a piece of silver with a rolling mill before you saw your shapes out. There's a whole variety of ways in which you could change this design. I make it maybe a little bit more eye catching because textures can catch the night beautifully was at the moment. I'm just leaving this design nice and sloughs and playing perfect for everyday wear. I'd love to see some photos of what you make, so please do share your finished creations on. It would be great as well if you could leave a review of the class to help students. Thank you