Silversmithing for Beginners - Simple Hammered Rings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

Silversmithing for Beginners - Simple Hammered Rings

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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15 Lessons (1h 27m)
    • 1. Simple Hammered Rings

    • 2. Simple Hammered Rings - equipment

    • 3. Simple Hammered Rings - soldering equipment

    • 4. Simple Hammered Rings - materials

    • 5. Simple Hammered Rings - how much wire do you need?

    • 6. Simple Hammered Rings - preparing the wire

    • 7. Simple Hammered Rings - soldering

    • 8. Simple Hammered Rings - filing and sanding

    • 9. Simple Hammered Rings - annealing

    • 10. Simple Hammered Rings - flattening the ring

    • 11. Simple Hammered Rings - texturing

    • 12. Simple Hammered Rings - using square wire

    • 13. Simple Hammered Rings - bonus: working without a steel ring stick

    • 14. Simple Hammered Rings - bonus: silicone wheels

    • 15. Simple Hammered Rings - final thoughts

13 students are watching this class

About This Class

This class will teach you one of the most popular beginner's projects - how to make a simple hammered ring from thick silver wire. This is a perfect beginner's project as it is quick yet teaches a lot of the important skills that you will need to go on to more advanced projects. It also doesn't need very much silver which helps to keep the costs down!


I'll take you through all the steps from choosing your materials to soldering the ring closed and adding a texture, showing you the same hints and tips that I teach my students in my workshop. The class includes two bonus sections that show you some alternative techniques using different tools.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document. I have kept the equipment needed to a minimum, and all the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects. The second downloadable class document available is a chart listing ring sizes

This class is part of a series teaching you all the basic but essential silversmithing skills that you need to create beautiful jewellery. My aim is to get you confident with sawing, filing, texturing and shaping your silver, and to add in some beginner stone-setting techniques too.


1. Simple Hammered Rings: Hello. My name's jointing me. I jewelry designer, a tutor from the South Coast UK and welcomes a simple Hamish rings figure. First, making a rain out of why is very simple Beginner's project a perfect project for future. Starting out as it teaches you a lot about cutting silver, sizing it, shaping it, adding texture and, of course, soldering. Well, it's also a relatively quick beginning of projects as well. If you follow the instructions in this class, even if this is your very first time, soldiering get you making a ring quite quickly. If you really watch my second means class that you have learnt how to shape the wire so that the ends meet head on nice and tightly. So you've got a nice tight nature joint relief soldering. However, those second rings are made out of relatively thin. Why, maybe up to 1.5 millimeters? What once you start going past that point, once you start getting to two meters or more bending that, why round? So the ends meet Head on is a lot trick Here. It's a lot harder to move the metal. By using this method, you won't have to worry about trying to bend the wire around, using our hands and pliers. You're going to get a hammer to do the job for you to hammer the wire around triplet. You could also, if you wanted to use this message for the stock England. But personally, I find that using the they're not why there's more suitable stacking rings. You end up with something that's a little bit to spring, so personally, I tend to reserve this for using with thicker wire. But what you seen, how quick and easy this method is, you might want to make more than one that Rainy might want to make a set of them, because I've got another couple classes coming up that used these rings as well. For now, though, that's have a look at the materials and equipment that we're going to need to make the rings 2. Simple Hammered Rings - equipment: the's with controls that we're going to need to make a simple homage. Ring a set of ring size er's oversee useful so you can work out the side of rings that you need to make the Zahra set off wheat sheaf ring sizes, which is the system that's used in the UK Obviously, if you are in the rest of Europe or with the United States or Canada, you're going to need the re sighters to go with your system. I'm also going to be using a wheat sheaf stick to start forming the ring and again bring size sticks to match. The different systems in different countries are obviously available, but because I'm in the UK are meeting to eat chief system, then I'm gonna keep referring to this as a week chief stick as opposed to the ring. Mandrell even also see here that I'm also going to be using during the class. You really do need a steel, which is stick or inside a stick in the class, but I will show you how to mark the ring. Mandel to be able to use that as well, just in case. The only weeks she's sick with ringside of six that you have is an aluminium or plastic one . Or maybe you don't have one at all. I'm going to use a ruler and a Sharpie to help me mark the thanks of wash. I'm going to need to make a ring. I have a jeweler sore on D A to auto a medium cut sore bait. Onda, a bench peg clamped to my jeweler's bench. I'm office going to use those to be able to sort through the materials. As I'm preparing for soldering. The silver dust from a storm will be collected inthe e apron underneath the bench pig and then be put in a pot for recycling at a later stage. I have 1/2 round, six inch file, and I'm going to use that to clean up any excess solder around soldier join. This is a cut to which is, again, a medium cut. I'll use the various grace of every paper that you can see here to remove the marks left by the file. I've got a pair of nine on your pliers. I'm going to use those to smooth any kinks out of the wire if they needed. Before I start actually forming the ring on. Also, they might be useful to help her line the ring properly before I sort of the ends together . I've got three different hammers here. The nylon hammer I'm going to use start to start forming the ring into shape. You could use a Wilhite hammer instead. Both of those types of hammers are good at forming the metal without actually leaving marks . However, the other two hammers you can see here I am going to use those to delivery put marks and texture into the silver. So I show you the effects that both of those give on the silver ring for some of the hammering. I'll use TheStreet, bench box support work, and that other cushion underneath will help to keep the noise down a little bit. This is also solving class, so let's have a soldering equipment that you're going to need to finish the ring 3. Simple Hammered Rings - soldering equipment: this'll is the soldier equipment that I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, Everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mounting temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi the paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work, so he was also available in a paste form, its ground up soldier that's already mixed with a flux, so you don't need a separate flux. In fact, if you were toe adds the yellow Fluxus, I've shown you it would stop this soldier pace from working properly. It's most commonly available in syringes with small tips that she can see here. You can also buy it in tubs and pots, just like with the traditional sticks or strips of soldier, so that paste is available in three different melting temperatures. Easy, medium and hard. I've just got easy and medium here. The easy is the one that's 268 degrees sent rate for amounting temperature. The medium is 730 degree centigrade. As you can tell, the easy solder paste is a favorite newer in the medium soldier paste. When you have a new syringe, it's best to pull back on the plunger after you finished using it. Otherwise, the soldier pace going to continue to snake out of the tip a little bit, and you don't want to waste it because this is actually the most expensive way of buying soldier. I like to use the solder paste on projects like chains on door, so hollow beads sometimes might use it on sucking rings if I'm in a bit of a hurry, because one of the advantages sort of place is that the soldier usually stays exactly where you want it to be. Unlike the sort of Italians that can jump off as you start to heat the metal up, small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas butane gas that you use to refill cigarette lighter at the back of a picture, you can see a slow cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution, go to safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flames before cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety people with brass or plastic tweezers, not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes look after 4. Simple Hammered Rings - materials: so many different profiles off. Certainly silver on gold wire that's available to us nowadays. The days of having to form your own wire from casting grain and put through a drawer plate to get the profile that you wanted to have. Well, you can still do that if you want to, but they're no longer absolutely necessary. See how that she by them in a wonderful array of different shapes and sizes going for left to right here. I've got two millimetre square wire, two millimeter round wires, the short piece of a front in the middle, Andi, some over wires, his 3.2 by 1.95 millimeters on all of those three make really beautiful rings you can obviously use once it's but thicker. It was a bit thinner. It's really is up to You Are the shapes is also available R D shape or half round on rectangular weir, but always those wise be perfect suitable for this class. I'm going to be making the ring in this class out of the two millimeter sons of around wire , but I'm also going to show you a ring made out of square wire to late stage in the classes . Well, to demonstrate a couple of extra things to you 5. Simple Hammered Rings - how much wire do you need? : thes e s way of starting to work out amount of silver amount of why that you're going to need to make your ring is obviously to first of all, start out with the ring size that you need. Andi, I've attached a pdf to the class. This thing ring sizes in the systems of different countries. The inside diameter for those rings onto the insight of conference it is the insights of conference that your interesting since your first step is to find out the insights of conference for the ring size that you need to make you think I need to add on a little bit extra material to compensate for the thickness of the wire that you're working with the thick of the wire the longer it needs to be to be able to go around your finger on the standard rule is I don twice the diameter of the things of wire. So we're going to be working with the two millimeter round one in this class. Second, each went on two times two, which is four millimeters. I'm going to be making a ring that is a UK size pee on the insights of conference that is 56.3 millimeters, adding on another four millimeters for the sickness of the wire, that gives me 60.3 millimeters. However, for this particular technique, you are going to need a little bit extra material on top of that, when you are forming the ring into the round and you'll see what I mean. In the next section, I recommend that you on another, maybe 6 to 10 millimeters of the wire for this particular Terni to work. So I'm going to cut off. Well, another 10 millimeters takes me up to 70.3, but I'm just going to cut off 70. And if I anyone to cut two point of a millimeter, so I'm going to start off with 70 millimeters office around. Why that you can see the front, Yeah. 6. Simple Hammered Rings - preparing the wire: I think my legs off. Two millimeter around, Sonny. Several wire to me. Eso It's time to start preparing the ring payment be materials. First thing is I'm going to do is use the Nile jewel pliers just to oh, straightened that, uh, that links of wire a little bit so that I can then use a ruler turned the Sharpie. So it's like a mark on that 17 mixes that some going toe work with. So Okay, you know, that said that he's links Funny cut off. Um, as you have heard me say in other classes watching my other classes, I haven't not cut into my bench peg so that I can rest emotion my material on the wood, but still get the blade up here. So although it is the down stroke while the blade that cuts I've just finished. But my finger there next to the mark one cutting and do a couple of Marx upwards just figured out, stops ablaze with sicking students. A couple from soaks up was don't cut this. Such what? They push the metal. They push a mark into the metal so that when we then start going down the greatest fathers like you can hear being like smooth with sound, not putting any pressure on the blade. You really cutting to two millimeters? But something What, Did you have it two ways? Yeah, a concerned if catching world ups or so handy factional work force out, so that is soon going to be turned into any a beautiful, hammered ring. So that's saying I'm going to do is use the week, chief Stick on also have put it slightly out of reach orders into Round two. Helpful or so the nylon hammer. I'm going to use those to shape the wire into what will start to look more like a ring. Asai said in the introduction that if you've watched the stacking rings class, you're know that we're just in a wire. I will bend it round with my fingers or with have nylon, you apply sometimes as well bend it round into a capital D shape so that the two ends after being filed perfectly square. The two ends will meet head on, and then you can soldier them together. They've got to be found square, and they've got to me head on because the soldier won't fill any gaps. The tightly join has already got to be nice and tight, and the soldier will make it hopefully invisible on Certainly very strong. However, why like this? That why this thick is actually pretty difficult to bend into that d shape easily on accurately. And certainly if you go and sicker. If you were to go for either of the two millimetre square or with the over words I've got here, then that would be extremely difficult. Too neat, clean, accurately blend into that d shape. So the message I'm gonna show you now is an alternative to that that makes life a lot easier when you're working with sickle wire. So sometimes you do is eating week Chief might be on to see encumber that I got the marks here. Person him, I figured out catching the marks. I'd also I've got the letters and then going down to the numbers for the Red Cross one plus two, etcetera for the different ring sizes here. Now I want to make a size pain, which is here, but I'm actually going to start working closer to a size and so three sizes smaller. I'll explain that as I go along, so I'm going to do support. The work was not rather handy. Some jeweler's bench is half holes cut in two the size of bench, just beside the bench pick that you can slot Mandel's into on their very useful this job as well. You might also find it easier. Teoh supports a leather cushion. See what should have a go with different things and see which you find the best. What I'm going to do is hoat the wire at C M on and sometimes takes a bit of a big practice toe. Hold everything like this someone hand. What you might you won't be able to see off. See out of our view of the camera is that this ends off the week she stick is resting just on my just to It's just working a little bit of time. Using the night on your mama start to have that wire around the Mandrell, just feeding out a little bit more each time, hammering it around. Sometimes I find it easier getting the other end as well moves. I'm starting to turn that around. What state do you think that you she doesn't take me along with this, but I'm trying to make certain that what I'm doing is staying in view of the camera. What, you trying to dio that these iss seeking so so in touch fingers, depending on how sick the wire is, what I'm doing is getting a wire so that it is nice up against three. So, Andi over thing, take that off. Yeah, she want them to be sitting closer together. There we go. Sometimes taking it off and giving them a little twist is the way to go. Now, The reason why I started, how many amount is an M? Is that scotch, right? Therefore, to get it really tight up against amount of doing there. So start off hammering it around at a small with the end, starting to cross over each other on and then she gets a little and you can then bring it down so the don't bring it down to pay that you slit it down. It is a nice, snug up against the sun you are making and also already perfectly round. So you end up by hammering a smaller size. He need bring it down to that society needs making sure that those ends going past each other. I doubt the size you want. You end up with a piece of why this is already that perfect around a ring shape, but with two ends crossing over. So next time we want to show you is how to actually turn that into a ring. What I'm going to do, he's got my soul back out again. I'm going to cut through where those two ends of wire crossover to do that. When you look back on sharp pieces and dry out, going to hold the ring will soon become a rain. I'll put the top of the bench bench. I put the top show that top of that notch because I'm going to cut through the two together as I get away through. Some tension will be released from the blade. It was spring forward a little bit. If I cut down here, then it was spring forward. Andi damage the outside the ring. Maybe don't damage my fingers while which, strangely enough, I'd rather not not happen. So we have it sitting up like So, Um, if first few times you're doing this, you might find it useful. Just prospective masking tape around where there those two pieces of wire for to end of why are coiling past each other just to help you keep them together? Brussels. Through both at the same time. So my blade is up, right? Why? It's important to cut through both. Same time. Okay, So so that my bite swung in, which is a little bit. Get that back off again. So this is what we've ended up with a nice round ring, but the ends are sitting with a step to each other. Andi went up with those two little end pieces, which I put in the apron because they're going to go into this crackpot later. So they're actually not going to be useless project. Remember everything. It could be recycled or so we could be recycled. Now the reason I'm making sure that I cut through both of those ends of the ring, making sure my baby's up fight so it's cutting them through at the same angle. So now to be act, have those for solving that she got to see, uh, we're not into to focus for you. Let's see better there that they've been cut suitor A slight angle, but that both at the same angle. So now when I twist them little bit, same way that you would close a jump ring twists a little bitch, they become very go perfect closed soldier. So the soldier join has raping, prepared, no filing needed. The ring has really being put into around very easily. Now. The reason why you needed that excess material if I got those back out again in cities is impossible to get the ends to curve over in the same curvature is the ring. So you cannot cut the precise of the lakes of why that you need on then shape it around the rain trip little the week she stick to get the ends to meet perfectly on a curve. It just won't happen. You can't put enough force on the ends to get into curve around these sections of curved round, partly because the sections either side of them have been hammered and bent. But these ends they've really got something on one side so they don't have the same force acting on them. The other reason for needing the extra is so you can cut through needed everything up So he ends. Are definitely saw through at the same angle. So this ring is now ready for Sovereign. So that's a section, so I show you next. 7. Simple Hammered Rings - soldering: Theo Ring sitting on top off a soldering brick. Andi, I've got the join at the front here, so I can keep an eye on it before I put the ring on there. I just double checked that The joint waas Still nice and tight. It always worth doing that. Always worth taking time. Double check. Now, the type off soldier, the melting temperature of soldier that you're going to use here really depends on what you're going to use the ring for. If it's just going to be a simple plain band, maybe is part of our starting ring set that you're not going to aunt. Anything else on top of it? No embellishments, No. Ah Stone set on the top of it. Then you can just use easy solder here because you're just going to have the one soldier join. However, I'm actually going to use this ring in another video as well. Something Teoh start doing straight after this one. Unless he's going to teach you how to put a stone a silver set, cabbage on stone on the top of the ring. So because of that, the ring's gonna have something soldered on top of it. afterwards Sundries medium soldier to soldier This ring closed on that will leave me easy to put The stone setting on the top, however said, if you're just doing the one soldier joining for a nice playing, beautifully textured band, we just need to use ET soldier. Either way, the next bit isn't exactly the same that we're going to do. What, the flux. Just out a few here and I'm going to put nice big drop of flux. I'm not so joined. My preferred method of picking up the, uh, soldier is to use a damn paintbrush. I just scraped the excess flux off my paintbrush on. I'm just going to use that to pick up, um, a couple of Palance because I cut my solder really quite small. I prefer to use to small pieces. Rather one big piece. We've actually stuck in the water that's suggesting to you the end of the paintbrush, just Teoh to get them. Get them out. So I'm now coach, a couple of pieces of medium soldier on the inside of so joint. Now I prefer to put my soldier on the insight because at the end I'm going to heat the outside Mawr to make the outside of the ring by the joining the hottest part solder flows to the hottest part of the metal. So by making the outside the hottest, the soldiers going to flow from the inside of ring through the joint to the outside. I see nice liar soldier along that joint, and I'll know the soldiers flying all the way through. And there's a nice, strong joint. I'm going to be using a small torch for doing this because I know that I can heat this piece of muscle with two millimeter wide of this size. I can heat up enough with the small blowtorch you might need to need to if you got a bigger ring or if you have got sick a while, you might need to go up to be a blow talks to get the my temperature. But again, either way, whichever size talks you're gonna be using, the technique is exactly the same. So I'm gonna start rushing across the front and make sure the flux is dry. If I try and dry off, the flux too quickly is more likely to bubble up as it bubbles up the pieces of soldier. The sort of parents I put there might pop off, as I put them where I want them to be, like them to preferably to stay there. Laughter. The sea flux has dried, going to start going away around the ring. I've got to heat all the muscle up to get everything to the right temperature, Then rush across the front to make the front the hottest on a cypress. Previously. Draw a soldier through brushing across the front. First, you may see that flux dry to a white powder. I can see a little bit of the front here once destroyed. Two. White How do you know which is dry and it's safe to go all the way around the ring. The chip of the blue flame is the hottest part. So that's the parts I've got going on silver, and you can see already that silver started. Take all of it. A reddish change, which is show you to getting hotter, going for Soviet temperature couple times more. I'm going to go brush across the front. There we go nice and quickly because I'm taking the time to eat everything else up. Most seen a liquid flushes silver flush of the front here as the soldier float. So if I pick back up and see it brighter at the joint with soldiers, then it is else West Quite shut. I never get bored of that sound. You know what it is about it, So I always like it. So I got the nice bright, uh, soda here. That's flow really nicely. The war important wiggle test. Does the ring come apart? We've purposely trying take apart. It doesn't pass the first test. How about the rest of the ring is dirty, Remember, Stunning silver has got 7.5% copper in it. So the copper in the study silver has reacted with the heat and oxygen in the flame for me , copper oxides. So I'm going to put that in my so cooker full off the safety pickle. That very mild acid solution that you saw in the soldering equipment section of the class. I'm going to question there to clean up before I can show you the next part of the class 8. Simple Hammered Rings - filing and sanding: Theo Ring is now nice and clean being cleaned up in the pickle. Ondas. We saw the last section of class. It's also got a nice, strong soldier join. The next stage is to clean up that soldier joint because although there's not ah, lot of access soldier on here, I can still see and feel well. But I can still feel that join Onda. We could suddenly make it a lot neater. So I'm going to start off using the half round file. You, as you see shape the file that fits fits best the shape of the piece that you're working on . So I'm going to use the flat site to do the outside of the ring were mostly outside Andi around inside to do insight. You don't need to press very hard to the file. You can just sweep across gently Andi to see that shine in the view of the camera. Now that shiny patch just with those through four strokes that I did at the file, that's enough to started to tidy up That section liken, certainly can't feel the soldier joins, much as I could then notice. I'm not just filing at the joint starting further back and sweeping over. If you filed just a joy, you're going to end up putting a flatter area in there. So you always sweep across, follow the shape that you're firing socially, continue that little bits and turning round as well to do just spending a while over the ring over, Rather said. I'm finding side as well. Turnover. Feathering rounds like access us as well. That's always me doing this. Use your fingers as much as your eyes to feel the difference. You're making feel its license. Very so So that didn't take long tour that see outside the ring already done the inside. Now again, you don't want to file just at that point there you want to sweep across a little bit on bond with the gate of this angle means that you're going to need to do as a long stroke because you can. It's a nice, long efficient stroke, but just twist the blade of the file a little bit, it ego cross. So if I show you what I mean, go through, just twist just a little bit. So I'm sweeping across there. You don't go just like that will make a nice noise, right? It's like that that would you have said Make a nice noise? It won't actually do anything. It's the forward motion of the file that cups seeking either hold doing up on file or having more down on the bench. Paige Supporting work like that going forward. Sweet pickle. Bet I can't bending living over so that I can file this section here for shape the room on this side 94 A little bit of a twist. Get sweep. Sometimes sites do you need to do a little bit more to I go? I'm actually going to use the rounded decide here, though it doesn't actually, this is probably this is the one that bracelet the rule that that Cruz everything else My section of foods of all that's to say I was looking for, um you want to use the half found section here because if you use the flat than the edges of the file are going to come in contact with silver and they could leave marks if you use around its side. I see that the edges curved away. They kept away since smooth those last little bits that site look a bit more. That's better. Not so much need for this Saif that's looking good. So that so to join so you can't feel it. But what I can feel a bit of a quitter roughness that's left by the marks of the file on something. I can see them as well. So now going to use four different grades of Emery paper to remove the marks the file. So I got to see some scribbled on the back of these that I bought four different grits. I've got 240 500 1000 200 2000 and even see in the camera that that's the to 40. That's the 2000 so you can actually see. That's the difference in the smoothness of the paper. You work with the highest grade on, then work down to the lowest. So by the time I get to 2000 and actually really starting to polish but to 40 removing the marks left. Five. The file Conceive Looking back forwards Thank you inside just hurting the paper that you can fold the paper up completely if you want. You can also get something sticks and the emery boards. If you could. First, something that superb. It's different. It's more of a hard surface behind it. In the emery paper, that's enough for the 3 241 500 Just making sure that your senator signs all the way around just need to remove the marks left by whatever you working with previously. So 240 removes the marks left on file. The 500 removes the marks left by July 40 so I don't need to go away around the ring. Well, you certainly put a mark in it somewhere else. But you will find that you're sending a little bit further each time so that she goes further with the 500. For example, to make sure that you've covered the h of the the 240. I went to the 1200 Great now Oops! Even Missy, a provincial of floor might have ting. Is it lunch on the floor and last one, By the way, these pieces of emery paper bean cultural torn off much larger sheets. Andi, the number of the great isn't written all the way across the sheet. So to make sure that you write the number off on the piece that you've cut off the larger sheet because otherwise you'll end up with top full of peace. Emery paper, anything. I think that's what that's in. Two countries from these pieces of Emery paper actually end up in my Shrek parts. Eventually, what I've worn or the abrasive material off them, um, they're going to scrap public. Cassie. You have to see from the shine that some they become impregnated with a bit of silver. So haven that little base that I want to go to waste. So I have a scrap pot off silver the time recycle myself and other scrap parts. It's got bits of dust in it that's makes made with other materials on day or so. Things like this, because some burning supply will are those in burn these off on the bits is still forget reclaimed right, so I can't feel to join on. That said, such ring now needs to be well, I can see it's moving about a little bit. It's not sitting flat on the bench, peg Sony's flattening. It also needs the texture applying to it. But before I can do ease with those, I'm going to have to renew it because although I haven't done a great deal of work to it, I haven't done work all the way around the work that I've just stung at the join, especially with the file, will have work hardened at that area. So if I start trying to put a text your interest now, the checks should come out slightly differently at the joint and elsewhere, so the next stage is going to be a kneeling. 9. Simple Hammered Rings - annealing: I think what the ring back over to Why do my soldering pushed a solving block? Because us, I just said I need to know a Neil it before I could flash in it down on their flatten it down before I start to put a texture on it. Otherwise, it's basically just makes the texture little bit neater. If the ring is sitting more evenly around the the Mandrell with over the triplet without too much for a wobble, it unless, of course, you particularly want to bring with a wobble in it. So put the doing up at the front here. Andi, I'm also going to put a Sharpie mark Good shopping just there. No, The reason for those two things is that there are askew. Really know If you've watched my other videos that have a kneeling in them, you already know that there are certain things that you have to look out for when you are needing a work. Remember, you are heating your work up to a temperature that's lower than even easy soldering temperature so that the more yours in here go back to their organized structure. Metal does have a very organized structure that allows the particles inside of slip past each other. On that. Allow us to put texture in there or to bend it round to form a rink, for example. But the more the work that you do to the metal, the more that organized structure because broken up until the particles can't easily sit side past each other and neither your heat treating the silver will get. Those particles are lined back in their organized structure against, so that you can continue working with. It is exactly same principles that farriers use. When they're making horseshoes, they hammer when the war shoe he gets too hard to work with. They plunge it into a fire, plunges into a bucket of water, and then they can carry on working. Now, I don't have a fire. I got my by, George, and I have just out of you over over here, um, so full of it. My head. Very highly technical. Quench pot. The ice cream tub. Um, so I'm going to heat this up with small go torch unknown. Quench it. But there are certain things you can look out for to make sure that you have got to the right temperature. One is that you will get a deep red tinge to the metal that is most easily seen underneath where the flame is, and that is most easily seen when it's quite dark in a darker area. On my soldering set up is actually in the darkest corner of my room. Two other things you could look out for is, uh, the oxidation starting to appear. And that's why I put the joint at the front, because the most oxidize ations Venter appear are actually join. Everything else has been heated up already. Some of the copper has been taken off when I put the work into the safety pickle. But we're being funny and sending. I've got back down to that sterling selling alloy says More copper within the oxidation is going to be more here. The third thing I can look out for east that that pen mark that I just put on that where it is, um, will burn off so three things you can look out for, certainly for beginner. Probably that pen mark is the easiest thing, a bit of a bit of a confidence boost, maybe that you've got something really clear to watch out for that that when that pen mark has virtually burnt off, you see the ghost of it remaining. You've got to the right temperature. So that's not a torch way. We got straight on the mobile, beating out around around the block to dry off piece soldiers you need to worry about. Go to the station hearing. Nice change on a time out has come. Simple is that you must quench to free a Neil that finishes the process so that ring is now a kneeled. It needs cleaning up in the pickle. You can see one and whether you're filing and Sunday, Waas is a lot darker. It needs cleaning up in the pickle before I can continue working. But one more thing so much point out to you. It's not so easy to see. See if I can get it in focus. Very good. That's better, right? Right. Good. Use a nice macro lens, but it takes it. We want to refocus sometimes. So that patch there it's like telling about that the dark rocks ization again. Andi, you've got that the light apart. So ago, that lighter line in the middle. Of course, the one side of the dark, practically oxidation. That's the soldier joint. It's showing up brighter because the soldier doesn't have any copper in it. It's a soldier doesn't form Coppa Rock sites. So if you ever actually need to find the soldier, join on, for example, a ring. If you want to put something on top of the soldier doing but not actually sure where with all join actually is, you can just heat up the ring ever so likely not. So there's this much oxygen ization before he took, ever so likely, it will make the source join more visible. That is, assuming you can't feel it. So if you don't need a job and I see you can't feel where it is and you want to find it has gives heat now. But for actually tipped there for you. So that is not going to go in the pickle to clean up. And then, when it's done that, I'll get straight onto showing you how to flush in the ring 10. Simple Hammered Rings - flattening the ring: I've got here much. One piece of equipment. Touch I didn't show you. A starting point is that it is the piece of wood that I I drilling to size and my a my bench press drill. My bench drill. Um, and the reason I got this out, I should have given it a bit of a clean First, I made sure I just tapped out. Just turned over, um, on top of my over my apron, leave my bench pay, Could go to tap to make sure that so he didn't have lots of a little bit sore. Still with dust Sonus everywhere because the one that jumping up and down. But the reason I've got that is that I'm going to use nine on Hammer to wack. Really? With no other word for it. I'm going to whack the ring flat with the hammer. There's no really technical, but you find me to do that on my nice bench. I'm regained up with marks on the bench. Andi, I don't want to. You might actually see there on, uh, a couple of marks where I show how perfectly they fit marks where I've really done this job with another ring. I don't mind. The market's going into this. I don't want them on my bench so and to work and show you how highly technical this part of the project is. However, it's not particularly quiet. Sometimes it's good to turn it over and do it from the other side as well. That is looking a lot better. Um, still is obvious for what? They might not get to see it from the angles. I got the camera, but I can see so I look from this direction still a little bit of a the wobble might be because this piece of which poor thing is no completely flat. But I'm just gonna give a couple more wax for good measure. Yeah, happy with that? So this ring is now by some flat. It is almost ready for text strings. They almost because one thing I'm going to do to it first is a near it again because that working with the night on hammer has hardened it. So to get the best texture, I'm just going to need it quickly. Again. I'm not going to show you that because, well, you re watched me a Neil a ring. So if you really want to, you can go back and watch that section of the class again. One thing I do want to mention first, though, is that if this was a ring made a square wire, I could. Instead of hammering on here, I could hammer on top off my steel bench block, which would get the job done quicker and easier, because I'd have, ah, harder work surface underneath my ring than the wood. However, I don't want to do that with this round wire ring because hammering it on top steel would have given a both site fashioned area wherever the rain had come into contact with steel. Doing it with the the square wire would have been absolutely fine because the top and bottom off square, why already flat? So doesn't matter if they go flat up against here. And sometimes it is useful doing this job, doing a flattening on of square wire on a based, a still bench book because of square Y, sometimes a little bit, shall we say, a little bit more reluctant to move. And so having a harder firma surface behind the ring can make life easier with the square y . So I just wanted to mention that at this stage, in case of you wondering why I was using the what instead of the steel which broke So I'm going to go on and Neil this rain on and then show you how I put so Sean it 11. Simple Hammered Rings - texturing: the's are three main hammers that I used to texture my hammered rings. This'll one you've probably seen before my classes on my workshops. It's actually known officially as Joe's favorite hammer. It's a lovely old cross peen hammer on the head of the hammer has bean shaped to give a much finer texture, much finer head, leading to a much finer texture of lines. Now, I'm not going to use this one on the ring because I find that this actually works best on square wire. Raulerson around y Well, I have about this on round White just gets a band across the middle of the ring because I show you with a ring here popped on the ring, man jokes I hold on to the ring. Mandrell the hammer can't actually access the side to the rings, the around wondering very well, because the wits of the hammer prevents it from getting down there. So for this reason, I I tend to use this one just on square wire rings. I'll show you what that looks like later, So I'm gonna put this one upside for now on, and that leaves me with these two ball peen Hamas they've got balls over different sizes. So obviously this one will give a larger texture. Where's this? One? Will give a finer, more delicate texture off little dimples all over the silver. Um, I shouldn't use this hama because this signed the hammer also gives a lovely texture. It gives a texture of wider facets as you get wider, flatter areas going around the ring. I've actually been making another ring in the background as well. I very rarely make to our so very rarely mate with one ring to time because they're so quick and easy to make. Andi, I'm always in need of thumb for other projects, so I tend to make a least a couple at the same time. So what to here? So I can show you two different textures, One for each side off the hammer. Um, folks being a kneeled, I'm going to hammer on every set onto the ring triplet, because you need a nice firm surface behind the silver for the hammer toe. Have any impact at all, so it needs to be on the steel. Mandel. I've also got the leather cushion so that I can support my work support the Mandrell on another cushion helps keep the noise down, and it just it's it's good for support. It's good to to keep everything nice and sturdy as I'm hammering. So I think this one, I'm going to use the ball peen hammer. So this is where I was going to get a little bit noisier. I make sure this is this is nice and firmly on. I tend to keep the hammer almost in the same position and turn the ring round. Sometimes I might just turn the ring. Sometimes I turned the ring Mandel and it that doesn't really matter which you do. One thing, though this, I will say, is that it's important to think about how you grip your hammer. Please do not. When you are text during your metal, do not grip your hammer like this. If you were cutting with a knife because as the hammer blow returns, it moves back up again. This finger will get pushed back up each time. I will take the effect of the blow of the hammer and eventually do it long enough. That finger will start to ache. Andi, if you have a family that is a tour prone to our slightest their fingers like I do. And it's particularly bad to feel fingers. So please do not keep it like that. Not how you hold a knife, but how you shake hands. So pick up your hammer as if you're shaking hands with it. Basically. So please hold it like this. Not like that, whilst you were doing this hammering job, so I'm going to do especially hammer all the way around are two things might be able to notice already first civil. So I moved us about in the light. Where I have hammered is actually starting to a little bit more polished by sea spit shine it. Basically, the silver particles are lining as I hit them with a hammer. They are being forced into retirement, and they are being but more polished. The second thing is that you may have noticed, although I am trying to keep the hammer more disorientated in the same place, I am tipping it over side by side because as this hammerhead isn't white like the cross peen hammers, I can get a little bit more to either side. That's why I like to use a ball peen hammer for the round wire rather than a across being - turn this round a little bit more certificate of you of what I'm doing. So that way. See if we can get this into focus. You see now catching the light. I see. I feel so. It was a nice tactile texture as well. So that's ring is finished if I want it to bay. But what you can also do if you like, I'm going to do it with this one is take the texture further around, so I'm going to put it on the bench block. Andi, I'm going to have a top and bottom. So I know I said when I was flattening the ring was putting it into this Flasher shape that I want to getting those waves out of it. But I did on so on the wood rather in the metal bench block, because I didn't want to end up with flatter edges. You do need to have the metal behind it if you want to put a texture onto it so it will actually take it out of being a true around. It will end up with slightly fatter edges, but it's his really nice on your texture, going around the sides as well. So same old supplies about how you hold your hammer, please. Again, I'm angering the hammer over a little bit to make sure that I'm not just hammering at the top is wrapping around here as well. Not without Hamel, the way inside your asleep. And why would I need to? You won't get to see it anyway, but I do want to make sure that joins up with the texture that I put on the top off the front. Here. He's for that. Let's do the other side so logically noisy because I had to bring Mandel's touching each other, that bean vibrating. There's been about the way size all right, please was I can see how it's catchy like nicey, however, as I have bean text Oring this side. The first scientist I textured has been flattened outside Lee because it's essentially being sitting up against another hammerhead, a flat one. This is hammered out some of that first textures. What I'm going to do. He's turned back to that first side, take the hammer again and just touch up the texture on the first side to get it looking as it should. Okay, just checking the time happy with both sides And some, especially, who keep going back and forth forever until the Ringel to work hard and do anything. But I'm happy with that now. So if those at the weights to make sure that the camera is focusing just on this ring, focusing a bit closer that see, I don't quite right. But you can see, I hope, the texture that's on there. So I show you a close up of that in a moment. But I also want to show you how this side the hammer works and how that gives a lovely texture as well. So now the cushion the second ring bring Mandrell. That's what song nicely as well. So on this one I'm not to be doing is many hammer blows because the hammer is wider on this one. I was actually making sure that the hammer blows overlapped Oring, I see. So the hold of the area was covered in those dimples. But in this one, I want the fast. It's almost a sit next to each other. Someone removed the ring round but wider, a little bit quicker, rather and have fewer hammer strokes. I showed effect in close up shortly as well. - No , that's Ah, a lot quicker to do. I think I'll show you close up with this in a moment. But what she'll be out to sea on that is that I got some nice wide fusses. Now this texture only works when the why that you hammering it on is curved. It won't work on for that wire. And the reason is that each facet is sitting on a slightly different section off the car than the ones next to it. So you gotta for that section and then just different angle around the ring you weren't next flat section, different angle traveling round the curve again, another flat section on again. And that makes all the flat sections distinct and separate. If you had a hammer this onto a foot piece of wire, the fat sections would line up. They'd all be at the same angle, so you can only get this effect on something that is rounded. So I will leave you with a close up of both of those rings 12. Simple Hammered Rings - using square wire: square. Why can be used to make a really beautiful rings? But you do have to be especially careful about how you form them on. The reason for that is that as you bend the wire as you force why into a bend around the ring triple it's using a nine on the hammer eat has a tendency to twist. Actually, no matter how you bend the wire, whether it's with your fingers, whether it's with have nine on pliers or whether it's with a nylon hammer, it always has a tendency to twist a little bit. But if it's round wire, you don't notice that twist Round one had. Obviously, because it's round, it doesn't have any corners. So when it twists, it doesn't change its profile. It all, however square. Why can't fight. Nature has corners on DSO as it bends. It twists. You really notice that twist, so the trick is to take it very slowly. Don't ham around too quickly. Don't trying to hammer too much wiring to the bend at the same time. Take it slower and you'll have no trouble with it. The other thing I want to mention in this is that right? As I already said, the Swiss star across being hammer. It gives a really beautiful finish to square. Why rings? As you can see from these two examples, however, why moves at right angles to the head of the hammer on right angles? The head of this summer is back and forwards like this. So instead of on a round ham oh, a ball peen hammer the force being spread along around in every direction. And this one of the cross being hammer the force is just backwards and forwards like so, so cross Being hammer actually has a a tendency to spread the metal out a little bit to grow it. And if you've watched the mother classes, you actually seen a couple examples where I use that That feat shut of across being hammer to put a design into silver and to deliberately shaped the silver when you're using across being hammer on a ring, though, do be really careful aware of that feature because you don't want to enlarge your ring, you don't want to make it too big. On the other hand, if you have a ring that is actually a little bit too small and you don't mind what text you use then using across being hammer can be quite useful way of deliberately making a ring a little bit bigger to get it to the exact fit, Okay? 13. Simple Hammered Rings - bonus: working without a steel ring stick: this'll video. I wanted to show you a few extra tricks that might help you make your rings, especially if you don't have a little weak foreign stick. As you watch this video, you'll see that I'm working on a normal, unmarked ring triplet. Now the video goes on. You have to see a line drawn on it with a permanent marker. I put a side que ring sizer the side of ring. I wanted to make onto the triple it and drew a line tightly above the ring. Sizer. This thing is my guide to where I want to swing, that I'm making it the moment to end up on the triple it I drew above the ring size we're not below as the triple it is tapered. A line below would be too big. A line above might end up slightly too small, but it is easy to in largely slightly by hammering it down the triple it to reduce the size of a ring. It's too big. You need to cut open again, reshaping re soldiers. It's a lot more extra work. The second thing I want to show you is that I'm working with a longer length of wide, like did earlier in the cross. I do is quite often if I'm making several rings at once as it produces just a little less crap. You can also see that I'm able to pull the longer length of wire around the triplet, allowing me to shape it a little bit more easily. I really cut two rings from this length of wire. Andi have enough left over to cut another after this one. However, if I'm making rings out of gold, I usually by just the amount of gold that I need and use a method shown in the main part of this class. This trick with the masking tape is the last thing we want to show you. It could help the crossed over wire sit nicely together as you saw through them. Okay, but yeah, that 14. Simple Hammered Rings - bonus: silicone wheels: Thanks, Sexual class. I wanted to show you on alternative method off cleaning up the soldier joint on one of the extra rings that I've made on Bond. This is a message even use if you've got a pendant drilled or flexi shafts more generally known. If you're in the States or something like a Dremel hobby tour something, there's something that you can put Emmanuel in. Um, it is a silicon wheel or silicon disk. Andi. It's got, uh, grit. Got abrasive material inside the silicon. They come in different grades and even greater color coded. This is a black one on bond in the for the manufactures that produce the ones I use. This is a medium grade on it. It's lovely because it is abrasive enough to remove the excess soldier, but it leaves a soft enough finish that you then don't need to use any emery paper afterwards. So if I've got lots of rings to do that, I frequently do, Then I use one of these circum wheels instead of theme half round file on the different grades of Emery paper. But this is how they start out on and need a A separate Mandrell the special screws. You screw through the hole in the middle and then scruple cup again. It's best to use a small screwdriver, a slot for a screwdriver in the took. Okay, we have get into focus, so it's best to just check that type screwed up. Yeah, are they wear down over time as you use them? So that one's being used quite a bit. Now that is one that's the remains of one second. See the difference after it's being used to. That's what you get. Sounds that stage well. It's so it is not really very easy to use. Its got far too close to the Mandil. Mandil could then touch your work very easily and actually cause damage. And also, when it gets very small, it becomes a lot less efficient to use as well. So I tend to keep several going at the same time, so that when a big one ways don't about so this side a bit bigger than this, I'll get another Mandel set up with another new one and then save the smaller ones for jobs where a smaller one is needed to fit inside something such assets. Writing out this ring. So a couple of a couple things out of the way that the reflective shaft? Yeah, shaft, I was catching on. Onda Shea. How to? I'm going to use this to clean it up. So I'm going to ask the motor's running and it's spinning round. Going to go over like that. I move it in that direction. Not that because I find if I used in that direction, it's actually going to call a dick in there. So let's get going, following the shape so far in the shape of the rain, and you could see what has become Shinya that started to remove that Access soldier already but not left any marks behind as a firewood subsequent continuing. We're doing that and also do it on the inside as well as this one. As I said, will fit inside, not sit. I get that back into focus is I'm moving the pendant Jill around, not the port video cameras trying to focus on lots of things and moving around. So that's all nice and smooth. All of the excess soldiers being removed. I can't feel the soldier joint anymore, and most importantly, it is a nice Sir moos finish. There's no Emery paper needed, no sounding leader to remove any extra marks. So if you do have access to a pendant, really, or to general something like that, then do you have a look out for the silicon? Disks has said they are a very right useful addition to your toolbox. 15. Simple Hammered Rings - final thoughts: As you saw, I made a few things doing process of filming this class. Some made off two millimeter round wire, others made off two millimetre square wire I. Now that you've seen how easy this month it is, you might want to make yourself a few extra rings as well, because in other classes are going to show you how to build up stacks of the rings to make a nice wide ring and also how to sets terms on them well. This method is also good to use if you are making Bangles off, particularly thick wire. Long strips, angle link strips off two millimeter wire, even a three millimeter Why is relatively easy to bend into shape, But once you get closer to four millimeters or sick, it becomes a lot more difficult to shake my hand. So by changing the triplets that we use the rings here for a bangle mandrell on longer links. While you can use the same method to shape thick wire to make really nice bangle, just remember, if you're using square wired to make either a bangle ring, you have to take it a lot more slowly to ensure that the square. Why doesn't twist as it twists six where why are actually very hard to get out? If you got any questions about this class, then please do ask you to get back to you as soon as I can. And it would be great to see the rings that you make and to see what textures you choose to put on them for now. So thank you for watching.