Silversmithing for Beginners - Beautiful Bangles | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

Silversmithing for Beginners - Beautiful Bangles

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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15 Lessons (57m)
    • 1. Beautiful Bangles - introduction

      1:05
    • 2. Beautiful Bangles - equipment

      3:16
    • 3. Beautiful Bangles - soldering equipment

      4:32
    • 4. Beautiful Bangles - materials

      1:34
    • 5. Beautiful Bangles - how much wire do I need?

      4:42
    • 6. Beautiful Bangles - cutting the wire

      1:50
    • 7. Beautiful Bangles - filing the wire

      6:01
    • 8. Beautiful Bangles - bending the wire

      2:10
    • 9. Beautiful Bangles - soldering

      7:12
    • 10. Beautiful Bangles - shaping the bangle

      2:25
    • 11. Beautiful Bangles - filing and sanding

      11:16
    • 12. Beautiful Bangles - annealing

      3:48
    • 13. Beautiful Bangles - texturing

      4:47
    • 14. Beautiful Bangles - finishing and polishing

      2:00
    • 15. Beautiful Bangles - final thoughts

      0:34
12 students are watching this class

About This Class

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Take a length of thick wire, add some filing, soldering, sanding, shaping, hammering and polishing - hey presto, you have a beautiful bangle!

Making silver bangles is easier than you might think, especially when you've got someone guiding you through the process step-by-step, showing you all the tips of the trade and, just as importantly, how to put things right if they don't quite go according to plan - and that's what I'll do for you in this class. This is the closest you can get to me being next to you while you work, helping you along the way. Bangles are the most popular jewelry project I teach my beginners' classes, and definitely a popular present to receive as well.

Enroll on the class and before long you'll be making yourself an armful of beautiful bracelets and treating your friends too!

This class is the first in a new series teaching you all the basic but essential silversmithing skills that you need to create beautiful jewellery. My aim is to get you confident with sawing, filing, texturing and shaping your silver, and to add in some beginner stone-setting techniques too.

Transcripts

1. Beautiful Bangles - introduction: my nose drank Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer from UK on Welcome to my video close to teach you how to make beautiful stone silver buckles so by causal in the project. Since I always teach my beginners in my classes because it's a great project that covered most of the basics that you need to go make some amazing pieces of jewelry. It covers soldering, measuring, filing, a little bit more fighting and then some hammering us. Well, it may have, but first, if you need quite a bit of equipments to make the Bangles, But do you remember that? But she every piece of equipment show you you can use to make many other pieces of jewelry as well. So they do, in the end, work out what cost effective as usual, I'll take you through everything step by step and recover some troubleshooting tips as well . So click a role on Let's get Started 2. Beautiful Bangles - equipment: This is the equipment that you're going to need to make your silver bangle. It may look like a lot, but remember, most jewelry tools can be used for many, many different projects. And if you've watched any of my other video classes, he should recognize quite a few of the pieces of equipment here at the back. We've got a set of bangle sizes that look basically like a larger version of the ring sizes . This I've used in my stocking means videos. They cover sizes from Children's Bangles up to very large adult spangles on Do you cannot should buy cheaper plastic versions of these sizes. Beside further metal versions, they last much, much longer. I've been using this set in my classes for many years now, and they still look and work is good news. Next, the bangle size is is a reel of binding wire. Andi, I'll be using that shortly to work out the amounts of silver. That's why we need to make bank off this project. The ruler will help with that as well on dime mark on the silver, where I want to cut with Sharpie and use the duelist sore toe. Actually saw through the silver to cut off the amount this I need for the bangle. The job of the bench, Paige clamped to the desk. Issa supports that silver as you cut it onto the apron underneath. Catches the dust as you work. You also need a pair of wire cutters to cut the binding. While I've got 26 inch files here that both cut two issues, a medium cut. I got a flat file Onda 1/2 round file and they'll be used at different stages of making the bangle. The Engineers Square is to help me make sure that the ends of wire are completely square. Andi, I've got a couple off night on your pliers. Such will help me to bend the wire around so the ends meet before I sold them. Over. On the left hand side is a bangle. Mandel. This is a steel bangle Mandel, and it's around one. You can also get over Mandel's, which you cannot see make over Bangles with Andi. If you don't want to go to the expense of buying a steel Manjula, you can actually buy wooden ones as well. These would do the job nicely, but they won't last as long. It's also more difficult to get a nice hammered finish on a wooden bangle mental. I use the leather cushion to support the bangle Mandel on As I work, I've got four different hammers here. The nylon hammer is used to actually shape the silver around the Mandel without touching marking it on the other three. Hammers are ones that I used to texture my Bangles. Lastly, hidden away in the back are four pieces of Emery paper, four different grades that I will use to remove the file marks on the silver. 3. Beautiful Bangles - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment that I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in. It says it's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder start. I can't tell which melting temperature they are. The more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter, bigger projects such as Bangles and our dependence, you're going to need a bigger torch. Otherwise, you're not going to be able to get the metal up to the soldier in temperature that you need showing the big torch on this small torch next to each other. For comparison, you can buy specialist doers torture's with separate gas canisters. But for beginners, a D. I y plumber's torch is using more affordable on dfars, more easily found just in any D I y store. Do Make sure, though, that you get yourself igniting torch. It's a lot safer. The torch itself is the black section with the handle and the red ignition button that screwed onto the gas canister. Once gas canisters empty and you will be able to tell because your flame will start to get very graceful. Then it's time to screw in a new gas canister. And in some areas you can recycle the old ones at the back of a picture. You can see a slow cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution called safety pickle. In it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and last, but definitely not least our home safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 4. Beautiful Bangles - materials: the only materials that you need to make a silver bangle. It's a length off sterling silver wire. I got four different types of silver wire out on the desk. Onda. What they've got in common is that they are all thick enough to make nice, strong Bangles. I've got two millimeter round wire to move meter square wire. Andi. I've also got two sizes of over where the thing over wire is no 20.9 millimeters by 3.7 millimeters. Andi, the thicker over wire is 2.5 millimeters by five millimeters. I always start beginnings off with using around or over wire as the seams on those wives are a lot more forgiving. If you use square, why To make your bangle, you have to make sure that the seam of the joint is very, very accurately soldered so that all four corners off the square wire match up on each end of the soldier seen, however, techniques I'm going to show you are exactly the same with use around, square over or even retained wire. We're going to be using the thinner of the two over wise in this video class 5. Beautiful Bangles - how much wire do I need?: This is the easiest muscles I know off working out how much silver you need to make your bangle. And if you've watched the first of the stacking means videos, then this will actually be quite familiar to you. I put one of the bangle sizes on the mantle on the bangle sizes. Actually. Come off the holder to make it easier for you to do this. Andi, I've cut. I thinks off finding why I'm going to wrap the binding wire around the Mandel above the ring. The bangle sizer twist the ends up. I can use nylon. Your applies. Tell me to do this. Get a better grip. Twist it up until it's sitting nice and snug against the bangle. Mandel. Andi. Hence the top. The sizes. My bangle sizes are pretty standard. Set on. Do they will numbered. This is a size 21 which is about a seven cent to me to inside diameter bangle. I can take the white off and now there's a circle of wire. This has got the same inside diameter as the bangle sizer here. By the way, make sure that you put the wire on top of the bangle sizer and not underneath because the bangle Mandel is tapered. If you will put the white underneath, you would definitely end up with Peter binding. Why, that's too long on. Make your bangle to pick. Move this out of the way so I can show you next step. They use the wire cutters to cut the binding wire open opposites the join, and I just use my fingers to pull it out into a reasonably straight line. Now I can use a ruler to measure that straight line. So so much easier than trying to measure across the middle of the bangle sizer and then use pi toe workout from that diameter to work out the insider conference. This is not easier. So I hold the wire up against the edge of the ruda so that I can push it nice and straight to make sure I'm getting an accurate measurement. Andi, I make that 220 millimeters. I want the measurement in millimeters because my wire it comes in millimeters just makes life a lot easier. It's best to actually take the wire away. Put it back again against the ruler. Andi, measure it again about this in the UAE slip? Yep, on that's pretty good, because I've got the same measurement 200 under 20 millimeters. Now the 220 millimeters, actually the inside circumference of the Bangles I want to make. But if I cut off 220 millimeters of my silver wire my Bangles and end up too small, I actually need to add on a little bit extra to account for the thickness of the silver wireless I'm using. When the rule is to add on 1.5 times the sickness of the silver that you're using, I'm going to be using one of the over Whilst I showed you earlier, the one that's 3.2 millimeters by 1.9 millimeters. It's the 1.9 millimeter thickness that is actually going to bend around my wrist. My make him the bangle said. That's the measurement that I'm interested in. Bear with me for a little bit of mass, and I will show you my workings at the end, I promise one. The halftime. 1.9 millimeters is 2.85 millimeters. That's basically three millimeters, so I'm going to add on three millimeters to the 220. I'm going to cut off 223 millimeters. Why? Here comes a little bit of written must to help you. 6. Beautiful Bangles - cutting the wire: I've used tonight on your applies to straighten out the length of over wireless. I'm going to be working with Andi. I've used a Sharpie to mark where I want to cut. That said, this length here is 223 millimeters the length of wild. So I need to make my bangle. I've got why sitting on the bench pipe so it's nicely supported on wasn't going to do Now is used that you're saw to cut across that line, even if you're any cutting across a short distance. Remember this you're listening for in life. Smooth rhythmic sound if you hear this sound is because you're trying to put pressure on your blade, and it's actually going to make life harder for yourself, so relaxed that they do the work for you and cut through a lot easier what you might have to do at this point. We always all the way across you just make sure you're supporting both sides of the cut, so that looks like it's got there, and it from in front will be kind of stuff she is. We get, and that's my piece of wire cut out, ready to make a bangle 7. Beautiful Bangles - filing the wire: get a nice, strong soldier. Join on my bangle. I got to make sure that the ends of the wire are square, that they meet each other without gaps. If there are gaps, assorted can't actually filth. Um, and the joint may not take a tour. Or if it does, it will still be quite weak. So it's worth taking a time of this part. There are two different ways of holding a while on the bench paper that I teach my students . I'm going to show them both to you. Now, first way is to hold your wife down at this end of the bench. Paige, see room to make a nice, smooth run. Oh, make a nice long stroke with your file, which is not more efficient. I'm holding a wire, searches right angles to the bench, peg so that I know that when I hold my file parallel to the edge of the bunch Paige Paige Paige here and doing nice straight run with the file. I'm finding at the right angle. Once he gets this part, lift the file off and go back. It is worth taking your time and doing things slowly and deliberately at first on making sure that you do lift off and then go back to the start. The reason for that is if you just try and do it quickly around around, you actually end up. Everybody does this even. May you end up actually curving afar over slightly without realizing it, and that puts a curve on the end of the piece of wire, which is not gonna help you at all. So it's worth your while taking the time working on your accuracy wealth, speed, because the speed will come as you get used to it. Okay, It doesn't take very May strokes to actually make a difference. So we're going to check the end of the wire now with a closer shot and see how that looks. Hopefully, you can see as I move this around of the light, it's it's nice and smooth and shiny as apart from one point down in bottom right hand corner, just just there where it's a bit dollar is not catching the light. That section hasn't actually being filed yet. That dollar section you can see there so the marks left by soaring by the saw blade. So I need to keep filing until all of that section of wire is nice and sweet with all the way across. That's the first sign that I'm getting the end of the worst square, and I check it with the Engineers Square. She is an engineer square to help you. Check with the end of your wife is straight, pushed the straight edge of your wire up against the handle and then slide the end up to meet the crossbar. But if you can't see night through where the chip of the wire and crossbar are meeting, then you've got a nice square end of wire with wire this thick. It's best to check across in both directions. We can actually see me in C Um, this will gap between my wire on the cross spar of the Engineer Square, just there to get my nail inside it. So it's telling me that there's no gap there, so my wife is really nice and level that way. But it's not going across the wits of the wire, and I need to make sure that both weights are squares. It's square going across that section ongoing cross that section. So I need to do some more filing to this wire and then carry on checking it on. Make sure that the end is straight and then make sure that the other end of the wire is straight as well. So I'm nearly there with firing the end to the wire. Now I've checked both sends with the Engineers Square, and there's a little bit more work to do, but not very much. So we'll show you the second message of holding the while the bench paper that I teach my students. On this way, he is a way that people find a lot easier if they're having trouble holding the wires. Still, when it's done that they sent to the bench paper race, you want up against the clamp that is holding a bench? Pagan. Now we see. This only works if you've got this type of clamp, but it's still useful to know. And then once it's braced up against there, you can make sure that your father's lined up nicely and again. Do you nice, long even strokes. Oh, don't press too hard because justice with Saw blades, the fire, we do the work for you. If you press too hard, it's actually not going to make the job as easy. Another tip is to turn the wire over on file from the other direction. If you need to, that will help even out your file stroke. If you do have a tendency to hold a father one angle another without actually realising it seeking right, I'm going to check the into my wine now on. Do the last bit of little bit of finding if I need to on and then show you how to shape the wire, so it's actually going to end up a little bit more like a bangle. 8. Beautiful Bangles - bending the wire: way Waas cuts lengthy ends have been filed square. So hopefully going to meet nice and neatly. My next job is actually to bend the wire so that the ends meet head on. So I consort together. I'm going to use my hands to do most of the work and then a pair of nylons, your pliers to help me finish it off. But the first thing I told you to do is to bend the wire into a U shape and then I'm going to use my sums to bend the ends over, like so So it's starting to look a bit better, but I'm quite a big gap there. Still, so I'm going to do next is pushed the ends of the wire, but cuisine forwards. So in the past, each other, and then letting them spring back least makes the wire a little bit harder. It work hardens it so that the end of the wire say, sprung against each other. That's not bad. Just going to use a pair off night on your pliers just to squeeze across the join. Now I can see where the joint is just there, but there's no no real gaps the most common mistake, as I see, is for work to look. I think I should deliberately wrong work to look a bit more like that so that Young's a meeting, but they're not square. They're not flush. They actually need to be pushed inwards a bit and use this way to do that is put the night on your applies across and pushed them both now at the same time. So a little bit more nation ing up, they need to meet very much head on. 9. Beautiful Bangles - soldering: bangle, remember literally one joint. So I'm going to use easy soldiers to get this job done on. The first thing to do is add some flux. It's lovely, bright yellow liquid here. My joy is at the front of the bangle. Just where the brushes. You don't need to apply flux everywhere. Just a few nice big drops of flux. But the joint of the bangle I just brush the excess flux off brush. I'm going to use a dumb paintbrush to pick up a couple of pieces of soldier. I'm going to use a soda Pake to put those pieces of soldier just on the inside up against the join. I've got three quite small pieces of soldier there. They look quite white, but there are everything I've hammered Theo under the wire, the end of the soldier wife flat to send it out to make it easier to cut. I like to position everything to soldier. Join is facing towards me with a bangle flat on the fire, brick on and with solder just inside the joint. You need to make sure that you heat up the whole piece of silver. Everything has to be at the right temperature in order for the soldier to melt and flow. If you just focus the heat of the front thinking that's where the work has to be done, then all that will happen is that the silver at the back here will draw the heat away from the soldier. Join and you'll find it very, very difficult to get that soldier to mountain float. So I'm going to use my big torch to heat up the whole piece, and then I'm going to go focus back. No force at the front here that will make the front of the bangle hotter than the rest. Solder flows to the hottest part of the work, so by making a front hotter, the soldier will flow through the join on. When I can see a nice line of soldier at the front here, I know that my suck my salty join is nice and strong. Let's put those words into action. First of all, I'm just drying the flux. If I go in there blasting with heat, then speaks, the soldier could just jump off. In fact, one piece of soldier did just jump off. But it's not the end of the world. I just turned the torch off. I'm very carefully groups. If you don't paintbrush to put that back, there we go. Just put it back. It's always nice when they don't move, but if they do, is not the end of the world. Just have to tell the torch off a move back again. So I'm going to now continue heating up the whole of the piece of silver fortunes paths with plain is just in front of the blue chip. So that's the part that I want to focus on Bangles. Make sure that you keep moving. It's a nice, steady pace. So it's a balance between not moving so fast that you can't keep denied everything that's going on. But not maybe so slowly that you keep the flame in one position for too long might be out to see that silver taking all the risk of a reddish tinge. That's an indication everything's going to get the right temperature might also be able to see that my soul by joining sprung open, but that gives me the opportunity to show you how to put it right. Get your nice reddish changed your silver now, so I'm going to go back and forth across a front, get soldier to melt flow as the sole flows. I'm going to use reverse section tweezers to push the two ends of the wire together. So those ends are now nice straight there, nice and square. That join has grown nicely. Using the reverse action trees is to push the two ones together does take a bit of practice , but but you get the hang of it. It's quite easy to rectify any problems any movement in the soldier join. Another trick is if the soldier joining had actually lifted up. On one side is that as a soldier flows, you can just use the tweet just to push it down. That now seems to be quenched, and it needs. Here in the pickle pot, the pickle pot cleans off the dark oxygen ization that you can see on the bangle. Here. These are the copper oxides to formed the copper content in the sterling silver. The 7.5% copper has reacted in the heat on the oxygen and flame to form cop rock sites. So clean that off and then I think that actually show you how to shape it into a buckle 10. Beautiful Bangles - shaping the bangle: sold rings are nice and clean. It's being the pickle. Andi. I've given it a good rinse. Onda. They dry because there's nothing like eating away to. Still Mandel more than pickle. So you do need to make sure that work is clean and dry on. Was leased to Now is just pop it onto the Manjural Andi. It's It's been misshapen at the moment. In a while, it's going to be looking a lot more like a bangle, which is why this is my favorite part. You start off with something that's very misshapen, looks a bit weird, and it ends up looking like a really nice bangle. I showed you the night long hammer before another version. The even uses a war hide hammer, but any either these two will do the job. They're softer hammers. They're going to shape the bangle around the mantle without actually texture in it. I prefer this one. Does one invent use we're going to do? It's just Hama straight on like that. I'm not hammering downwards. I don't want to make the bangle bigger. I'm hungry. In there. You can see the Bangles starting to move down. The Mandel keep hammering and still is fishing nice and snugly around the mental. Definitely looks a lot more like a bangle now, but the soldier join. You can see it here now. Need some tidying up. So in the next section, I'll show you how to file on Sound that and make it a lot smoother. 11. Beautiful Bangles - filing and sanding: soldering went well. I've got a nice, strong join there. Hammering the bangle around the Mandel to get into shape was actually very good. Test off the soldier, Joy. Sometimes when you're starting out, haven't quite got so she joined done properly, it might pop back open. Um, as you have a rich around the Manjural, it's actually better for its rejoice at that stage than later on. If that does happen, just make sure doubly searching that your ends are filed neatly, um, to get square again and to remove any old soldier and then just soldier it again, it does happen. It's not the end of the world and it can be put right. Plus, you can see the soldier joint is still by obvious. So I'm going to use the half round file too neat in that. So join up. I'm going to use the flat side of file this file around the outside of the ankle. I'm going to use the rounded side to file on the inside. You use the shape of file that fits your work the best. I'm not going to file just at the joint. If I do that, I would put two quite distinct flat area at the join Andi, I want my join to be as invisible as possible. So what I'm going to do is start little bit further back and sweep across and again. Just is when you filed the ends of the wire, don't pressing or dig in. The file doesn't need that. It will actually doing the work for you. If you put too much pressure on the file, then you could actually more marks on it that you want to spend time using the emery paper here getting rid off. So don't make more work yourself. So I'm going to sweep across, and you can see already that some areas have become shiny. Those three areas are such to file, and what she won't is to have it all nice and smooth and shiny across the join so that you can't actually see any dull areas of the joint. The dull areas of the unpolished silver that's come straight out the pickle. So if you can see any dull areas at joining, they haven't been filed yet. They haven't been filed. Smooth. So you wanted to be a nice, smooth and shiny or across that joint. Gnida. Just do you see? I turned the Bangles. I work so that I can get the size as well. But again, just keep sweeping across that join on and slightly use. Yes, today subsections off you turn the bangle round. That's it for the outside Insight said. I'm going to do with 1/2 friends section. You could either do that hosting the bangle up. Oh, you can hold it down on the bench play. It's completely up to you. Up to you. I prefer charged at the bench. Paige. Try and hold it like that so you can still see the So join. I first heard that the bench pay so that it supported again. I'm not just going to work at the join. I'm actually going to sweep across a little bit. I'm going to use the whole length of the file, but I'm going to twist it just a little bit so that I don't actually get just join going across there that I'd actually put in a little channel. That would be really quite obvious. So it's going to sweep across. It might be easier if you just say from holding it up. I can. Trista bangle back and forth makes it easier to catch the edges. Turn it around. If you need to say that, you can get to the other side. Yeah, if you watch the awkward parts on the sides here, then they could be got to most easily, actually, by still using the half round side, the file again just follows the shape off the bangle wire so you don't put any fat areas. You know your site, right? That's the filing done. Just show you click quick, close up of that so you can see things for Italy. And now she how I send to get rid of the fire marks. Here's the outside. The joint C is all smooth and shiny. No sign of any excess soldier. So that's no Sunde. The inside has retreated to get into focus. We go. We can see exactly say, no excess soldier, no section sticking out. And when I feel it, it's all smooth. Your fingers are actually much better guides than your eyes at this point. So is you can't focus again. So if you can't feel any excess soda, then you're good. There are scratches on here left by the file that needs sorting out. But the Emery paper will get rid of those for me. I got four different grades of Emery paper purpose have been to use to send the bangle. I've got 240 grit, 501,000, 202,000. The higher the number, the finer the emery paper. So you start with the lowest number first the course this grade and used up to get rid of file marks. The 500 would then get rid of any marks. After about 2 40 the 1200 any marks left by the 500 so on until by the time you're using the 2000 you're really actually starting to polish your work. You really need to sand actually at joy there's no need to signed all the way around and way making sure I sang site at the joint as well and also on the inside, waiting everywhere The start filing needs to be sanded. Who's okay now, now a lot smoother and try to get Russian focus. The easiest thing so shiny Now the soldier join is a lot smoother already eso now then she is the 500 to get with the marks left by the to 40 and keep working my way to the grades. I'm gonna fast for which this book for you one sounded bangle with no far marks left on it on the inside or the out. I can just about see the soldier joined on there because it's a so lightly different color . But once everything's textured and polish, you won't be able to see it at all. Don't worry if your soldier join is more obvious than my No, because a really nice, smoother soldiers joint does come with practice, and hammering a texture onto your bangle really does hide a multitude of sins. There's one more separately to show you before I texture the bangle, so let's get on with it. 12. Beautiful Bangles - annealing: I put the bangle back on the soldering block because I need to heat it up again before I can texture it. Everything that I've done to the bangle since it was sold, it had work hardened it, especially hammering it around the mantle with the nylon hammer. If I tried to texture it now, the texture wouldn't take particularly well, especially the area where it's because the most work done to it wiping, filing and sending around the social joint. So what I need to do is soften the metal a little bit. On this process is called a kneeling. A kneeling basically means each treating. I'm going to heat the bangle up again to a little bit below soldering temperature, and then I'm going to quench it again. I'm going to use the big torch. When I was soldering, one of the signs off the correct temperatures I was looking out for was, ah, fairly bright rate. This time I'm looking out for a bit of a dollar, right, Andi. I also watched to see when some oxygen ization appears, which would be mainly around the area that I was filing and sanding. I'll explain why that is at the end of this section, but that oxygen ization appearing will be another sign it. I've watched the right temperature. It is important to quench as soon as the red color has gone because actually actually part the processing. If you don't quench your work, then it won't be as kneeled as well as it could be. But the darker patch here. That's where the most stocks ization took place. Now. That's because all of this section had been heated up before. It had already had some ox ization on the oxide ization was cleaned off in the pickle that's inside the slow cooker over here, so all of this section had less copper in it, it to become a site finer silver. This section is where I've being filing and sanding, and so that finer silver surface had been removed and it was back to the proper starting silver. So there's more copper present here, and then we'll surround here. So Mork civilization here around here, but that as usual, but get cleaned off in the pickle on. Once I've given severance and to dry, it will be ready for a texture 13. Beautiful Bangles - texturing: way. Find time to hammer bangle. Andi. I've got a choice of three hammers that Jews the small hammer you could use either side of the head. It's up to you. This one gives nice little dimples on the bangle. This one would give much wider fast. Six. This hammer is much sane, but the hammerheads are bigger, so the effect would also be bigger. Look, this is actually my favorite hammer. You'll see disappearing quite a few video classes. Andi, this use a lovely straight texture. However, this bangle wire is oval, so all you'd really be able to do is just put a line off lines down the middle of the bangle wire. It wouldn't go with way round because the Mandel's in the way. The hammer can't get around there. So I say that hammer for when I'm working with square or rectangular weir and I use one of these two wires. Usually if I'm working with the over wire, much can use this one and put it would import. That would catch the light beautifully all the way. Round up the bangle, the work supported on the bangle mantle against. I've got a nice hard surface behind the bangle. I was laying flat on the leather cushion, just so it's easier to turn the manual and also to cushion some of the noise, because this is going to get a little bit noisy and all you really need to do is just hammer. It's no big wax. It's little tap tap, tap taps. Another important thing to say is how you hold your hammer. Hold It is if you're going to shake hands with somebody, might so don't hold. It is if you're holding a knife with your finger out like that, because it will keep bouncing back up against that finger and eventually your start to hurt it. So hold your Hummer like that and hold it towards the end of the handle as well. See, get a nice, good grip. Um, if you hold it up there, you won't be able to get such a good affection. - Just on one section. There, I take it off the bangle mantra. I'm trying to just focus for you if we are to see some shiny sections. So that's just the section where have been hammering and you can sit good lot shiny Er, I'm going to continue working all the way around the bangle we can do if you're not sure of the effects that you're going to get on, whether you guys like it is quite likely around the bangle. First off, have a look at it and then add more texture if you want to. So I'm going to continue this now on. But I'm going to speak top little bits. You don't have to watch the whole thing, - Yeah . 14. Beautiful Bangles - finishing and polishing: Theo Bangle is that textured all the way around. But there is one more job that I have to do to it before I can polish it. I need to make sure that it's flat. It's sitting at the moment on top of this old beaten took cover. This I've got here. Andi is not sitting quite flat. Our top here. There's a little bit of a wobble, which is quite normal. It's very difficult to make the bangle completely flat when you're bending it around to get it so that the ends joined up ready for soldering. So I've kneeled it again to soften it. Because, of course, the hammering that I did to put the texture in has made it a lot harder. Andi, I've got the night on hammer again. I'm just going to hammer it down on top of this old, beaten up piece of wood here. I don't mind doing it on here. It's actually ends up leaving lots of marks. I'd rather do it one here that my nice needs jeweler's bench, you know, hammered on here to make it nice of flat and then popped in the tumbler to polish it. So it's nice flat now. I need to get it nice and shiny. 15. Beautiful Bangles - final thoughts: No way just taking the bangle out polish up on its now lovely and shiny. The light bounces beautifully off that I am a textured finish And it's now ready toe where Or perhaps to get the president I hope you enjoy the class. Don't forget to enroll on my other jewelry classes so that you could learn as many skills as possible. Thank you for watching. Yeah.