Silver Stacking Rings 2: Dress Up Your Rings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

Silver Stacking Rings 2: Dress Up Your Rings

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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15 Lessons (1h 10m)
    • 1. Silver Stacking Rings 2: Introduction

      2:13
    • 2. Equipment

      5:05
    • 3. Materials

      1:50
    • 4. How much wire do I need?

      4:41
    • 5. Using a Disc Cutter

      2:58
    • 6. Melting Silver Balls

      4:42
    • 7. Sawing Shapes From SIlver Sheet

      9:20
    • 8. Hammering

      6:59
    • 9. Using a Doming Block

      5:02
    • 10. Soldering the Silver Balls in Place

      5:28
    • 11. Preparing the Rings for Soldering

      4:11
    • 12. Soldering The Rings Together

      8:22
    • 13. Polishing

      3:08
    • 14. Conclusion

      0:42
    • 15. BONUS: Using Solder Paste

      5:14

About This Class

In my first Silver Stacking Rings lesson you learnt how to make simple but beautiful wire stacking rings. In this, the second half of the course, I will teach you how to add embellishments and decorations to dress them up.

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Stacking rings are one of the biggest current fashion trends, and one of my favourite pieces of jewellery to make. Once you have mastered the basics a fantastic variety of textures and embellishments can be added to your rings, allowing you to build up a collection of beautiful rings that can be mixed and matched for a different look every day!

This class will teach you how to saw shapes from silver sheet, how to use a disc cutter and doming block, how to add textures to your silver using different methods and how to form little silver balls to decorate your work with - this last part is especially fun! You will also advance your soldering skills, both in your understanding of what soldering involves and in that soldering the decorations on top of the rings takes a little more careful setting up. As usual I will take you through everything step by step and if you have any questions please just ask!

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document. I have kept the equipment needed to a minimum, and all the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects. Other downloadable class documents help you to work out your ring size and the amount of wire needed to make your rings, and remind you of the troubleshooting tips covered in the class.

Who is this class for?

This class is perfect for beginners, but if you haven't yet learnt how to solder simple wire rings you will need to work your way through Silver Stacking Rings part one first. You will learn many basic techniques that you can go on to use in other projects, and I am here if you have any questions.

If you have already learnt some of the basics of jewellery making and silversmithing then this class is also great for you! I have included the same hints and tips I give my private and evening class students to help you to improve your confidence in sizing rings and in soldering and sawing especially.

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Transcripts

1. Silver Stacking Rings 2: Introduction: Hello. My name's jointed me and I'm a jewelry design future. South Coast UK welcomes the second of my chief of essence on the second, in the first set of videos, I showed you how to make some simple but lovely sucking rings after staying. So why this time? We're meditating, saying brings home a little bit fancier by some embellishments because he saw the embellishments after stone. So she choosing couple from techniques and be adding texture to them on you being a little too shape as well. I'm also going to show you how to melt a piece of scrap into silver balls. This is a great technique to the lots of fun, and troubles are very useful for decorating all kinds of projects. I mostly going to show you a couple new piece of equipment that you use in the first set of videos, namely a disc Attar on. Don't go but dont want. If you don't have access to being, you'll still be able to make beautiful things. I also teach you a different technique for working out the amount of why you need to make stocking or indeed, any type of ring. But if you prefer the table showing difference ring sizes on the amount of why that you need for the different gauges. Why that you've been used. We still touch to this set of videos as well. This project is suitable for all abilities and experiences of making jewelry business, as it is the second of two videos. It doesn't cover how to make your first Cubans themselves. So if you don't yet know how to do that net by your role in the first video and then come back means I hope you enjoy the videos. If you got some questions already, feed back, then please do leave a comment. I'll get back to since I can. But I would also love to see a photo. It'll be means you make have fun, makes little teammates. 2. Equipment: thesis tools that I'm going to be using to make second means in these videos. I know it looks like you're not a tools, but please don't worry you don't actually need or of them to make this stacking rings is just as I'm going to be showing quite a few different techniques. And secondly, most of the tools here can be used in May many different jewelry projects. So investing in, for example, a set of files we can use intimate second wings, but you were use of in virtually every piece of jewelry that you make in my first stacking rings video lesson. We use the ring sizes so you could work out the size, the ring that needs to make on, then a charge. This I attached the video was download to work out the amount of wire that you needed to make your rings. You can still obviously use the download toe workout your ring size on the amount of why that you need in this lesson on the download is attached again to this lesson for you, but I want to show you an extra technique working out how much why you need to make your rings on. That's when she's the ring sizes green triplet on and the binding wire. The binding Why is cheap, thin, very pliable steel wire I'll be using the Y customs to cut the binding wire and also the flat nose pliers will be used to help twist the binding while into the shape that needed to be. We'll be using a sore not only to cut the wire for the rings, which also to cut out some shapes from sheet wire to put on top of the rings. The discuss er is a new piece of kit Haven't shown you before. As its name suggests, it is used to cut discs out of sheets muscle. Don't worry if you haven't got one of these, because you can also buy little discs off silver and of copper as well. If you prefer to use copper, um, those can be bought quite cheaply. But if you're going to be using a lot of them in your work, and I do then discuss it is a very good investment. The dome ing block comes with a whole range of different size stoning punches. Andi. They are used together to shape sheet muscle disks, flowers and other shapes as well, and give them a nice cup appearance. If I'm cupping sheet that has already being given a texture that I use wouldn't only punches and said the metal ones. So if I don't have a for that so and distorts the pattern that by taking the trouble to put into the sheet in the first place, the ruler was Officer used to measure out metals. I'm using the files to knee chin up the edges. Andi. What a nice collection of hammers. The nylon hammer is used to shape the ring around the triple. It gets into the proper shape. The text. During hammers Officer, you supported texture into both the ring on and the least of sheets. This I'm going to be soldering on top of the range. Another way of adding texture into your silver is by using texture punches. And I've got a growing collection of those suspected flourishes and dots and circles of flowers by like using those a lot the older, heavier hammers I've got here, I say, for hitting the text during punches. The dome ing punches also the punishes that cut discs with the disc Attar because if I would you use a text during hammer to hit those punches, the head of that hammer would get damaged and then it wouldn't give the nice sections I want. So I save a special hammer just for those jobs they doesn't match of. The head of that gets damaged. When I'm hammering a piece of sheet metal, I put it on the bench block that sitting on top of another cushion that gives a nice firm surface behind the Silver Service like a very nice impression into the silver itself. The French Paige, with us ticket here, is used to support two silvers. I cuss it by civil wire and silver sheets on this one comes complete with a bench block that's I touch onto the desk. You can't obviously ham on top of that bench block. You don't need a separate one. I just prefer a separate one because I can put it on another cushion. It helps he noise down a little bit 3. Materials: the's the materials that I'm going to use to make stacking rings, the wire going to use to make the rings themselves on the other materials are to meet the embellishments that will go on top. I've got 1.2 under 1.5 millimeter around wire. I'm also someone Miller. Me too square. Why? Which is one of my favorite wise two years. The two blue squares are actually sterling silver, so so the sheet comes with a thin plastic coating on its That's easy to peel off, but it's there to protect the silver while being transported while you store it on door. So why you use it? I like to keep plastic coating on there for as long as possible while I'm actually making my work, so I will cut through it, start to file through it. I know you take it off when I need to start texting silver on, Of course, soldier it the smaller square on top. There's no 0.7 millimeters thick. That's about a gauge 21. The largest square is no 0.5 millimeters thick, and that's about 24 gauge. You actually see me cutting out a piece of sheets that don't look anywhere near as needed to tidy is thes squares as because I like to use as much as possible of my sheet silver like to waste as little as possible, so cut into every time peace left. I've also got some piece of scrap sitting here. Couple pieces, scrap sheets and also he swept wire. Andi, I'm going to use those as well to make some of the embellishments. 4. How much wire do I need?: I want to show you a different message for working out the amount of silver wire that you need to make studying Ringel anyway. Really, You can, of course, use the downloads that is attached to this lesson, but this is a useful technique to know. I put a UK size P and 1/2 ring size on the ring triplets that's a US size eight and have also cut off a length of binding wire. I'm going to use that to make a false ring or pretend ring that I'm then going to use to work out the amount of why that we need. I'm going to wrap the binding wire around the ring triplet just above the ring Sizer. If I was to wrap it round below the ring size or because the triplets tapered, I would actually end up with a ring that's slightly too big. It's such a wrap it around on and twisted to end together. I find it easiest. Use a pair of flat nose pliers to help me finish twisting the wire. I want the wife sit nice and snuck against the ring triplet and against the top off this ring. Sizer, which it does now would take. Now we've got the pretend ring made us the binding wire. It's going to cut this open opposite the joint. If I cut it too close to join that, it's pretty likely to fall apart because soap across opposite from the joint straighten out the wire. Unless this is a conference C inside circumference of your main in a more or less flat nine . I'm nothing to measure a piece of straight binding wire against the Rula on that will give me the insight of Conference off the Rings I want to make Remember, we want to millimeters because the wire is sold in the millimeters uh, thickness. We want to say to same units, and that works out. That's 57 millimeters was taken away. Andi, put it back again. Yes, to double check that I've got the right measurement. You don't want to get it wrong before you cut your wire. It's definite 57 millimeters. Which company? Swift? Because that's the same measurements that's listed in the charges I've put for download for you. I now need to add a little bit extra onto that links the binding wire to compensate for the fact that Silver Wireless I'm going to use East sticker in the binding wire. So if I want to use two millimeter diameter wire, for example, to make the ring, I need to add on 1.5 times that two millimeters diameter one a half times two is three side NATO. Add on three millimeters to my 57 millimeters and cut 60 millimeters of wire. Otherwise, my ring is going to be too small. Remember that if you want to, you can download the chart that's attached to the video lessons and use that to do the hard work for you. The next step is actually making some saying ring bands on did use the first suffering lessons to help you to do that. But this time, remember that you want to use medium solder to sort the rings close and not easy, soldier, so that we can still use the easy soldier toe at the embellishments on I make you into. But Francia 5. Using a Disc Cutter: I'm not going to show you how discussion works on and cut a couple of discs out of it, something to use to involve a couple sucking rings. Although my discussed her look so rather beaten up in dirty and old, it still cuts beautifully. I invested in a very good quality cutter so that I would only have to buy one once and also the good quality. Custer's cut really close to the edges of your silver so they actually result in brain for wasted. So a sheet. One of the things that makes this such a good quality cutter is that the edges a nice and sharp on and the cutting head is actually slanted, which means that it starts to cut one past the disk, and then the cut goes around the circle. Cheaper punches for that across so that when you hammer them onto the silver, they try and push the whole circle through at the same time. On the ages of those circles aren't such a good quality. I'm going to be cutting quite a small disk. We're going to be using this whole. I went to position the sheet so that the silver the edges. The silver are just past where I went to cut. Put your punching cutting face down. You really do not want to hit and damage your cutting face. And this is the fun bit one cut out discs. We're going to cut a few more. You can see how close to the edge I managed to cut on that. Sheets of braid were wasted, but even that little bit I will use later wrong to show something else. 6. Melting Silver Balls: a said before, I like to use as much of the silver sheets on Dwyer that I haven't stopped as possible. I don't like to waste little bits. It can go into my scrap pot so I can send it back to my brilliance. Apply to recycle. But I like to recycle many bits and pieces that can myself. And one of the ways in which I can do this is by melting core bulls silver that I can then use his embellishments on my work. And this is how I do it. And it's lots of fun. I've got some small pieces, a silver here that are off cuts from where I cut out the disks and cut out the days eats that daisy earlier. Wrong. I haven't peeled the boo plastic coating off because they're so tiny. We re Fridley and they're actually quite sharp. It will burn off. And they're such tiny pieces that we okay, I'm in a well ventilated workspace. I put one of the pieces of silver into, um, but dip that's formed and charcoal block over the time I bean working on it. Andi, I know when to melt it and watch and see what happens. The hottest part of flame is just in front of blue home. So that's official. Keep my work. You see, that's plus it being burnt off. It's going red or orange. As you can see, the silver just pulls itself together. Perfectible. Don't you do anything to it? Apart from heat it up, I show you that again, partly because I enjoy doing it. Yes, read a resemble orangey and then forms a pool. I leave it on a charcoal brick until it's going a lot duller. It's no longer a bright color because when it's still quite bright, it's quite soft on. I don't want to squash it up. That's nice shape that it's formed into. I tend to keep the flame on the silver for longer than it takes to just melt it and form it into a ball. I find that by keeping the flame on it longer. Andi moving flame about on the silver. It helps to get bored as smooth as possible. If you decide that a ball isn't quite big enough and you can very for easy make you picker by melting more silver English, I'm going to continue on the melt or the scraps and probably a few more words. Well, I tend to melt lots of balls, a silver at the same time so that I've got a good choice for the work that I'm doing so I can pick up sizes that I want. 7. Sawing Shapes From SIlver Sheet: I don't have to limit your embellishments to disks that you can cut out with this battle by or balls of silver that you can melt up with a little patience. If you use a it's jeweler Sore sheet silver the bench play. You can cut out any shape that you like. This is a shape that's I cut out using Kraft Paper Punch on Dive used it as a template drawn around it with a fine tipped permanent marker on silver sheet. Andi, I'm now going to cut it out most of the silver supported on the bench pick and go to run the blade up in this triangle that I cut out hopes it's the down stroke of the blade that cuts on. Do you want to try and keep the blade as upright as possible? Because that makes it easier if you turn corners. Don't worry about speed that will come with practice. Concentrate on being accurate. Speak will come later, but you want to be out of here a nice, smooth, rhythmic sound. If you hear this sound, it's because you're putting a bit of pressure on the braid. You don't need to put any pressure look really just rise up and down and do your for you. When you get to a sharp corner to turn it. Joke the blade up and down the sport unless you make rich inside the sheet silver around. And so it's facing the right direction, and off you go them get one flower customs, the sheet myself on. What I need to do now is use a needle files to meeting up the APIs needle files, a different from the files, which I used to meeting up the edges off the while making rings because a smaller you can get me a Ranger different, different shapes on. The idea is to use that the shape that fits whatever you're filing. So this nice one, which has got a quite a a sharp edge. Oh, there is really good. What's that? Getting into tight spaces? It hasn't got any file Bruce on the back. It's zone safety backed so that, um, when you pushed into a tight space, it doesn't damage the silver on the other side. I would use that wolf between the petals are going to use a flat file for doing the chops of petals and smoothing those out if I had a con cave shape, but I'd use a rounded file to get into that shape smoothly. I'm going to take the the plastic coating off that get five files only work for which movement That's my shape. Nations up. There are few buzz at the sizes when itself is being pushed over. Why filed it? I just fancy file at 45 degrees fish to the ancient feet just to get those birds off. Did the same on the other side to swell. You cash out leaves, little birds, squares any shape you like, really? 8. Hammering: cut some shapes, sounds a silver sheet. Now it's time to give him a bit of texture that's of interest to them. So I've got a couple texture in Hammer's Andi to pattern or design stamps on bond. My old heavy hammer to hit them with Teoh. Allow them to put a passion into the silver. So I'm gonna start off with the disks. I'm going to give those three disks three different textures. The easiest thing to do. This the hammer thumb. I'm going to use the scent of the hammer. What you give a nice Tim put effect. We do that with the 1st 1 most difficult thing is keeping our fingers after the way. - Next one beta texture using this is a stamp. It was little circle carved at the top. So that circle guessing boss still pressed into into the disc, I'm going to cover the discriminated circles going over that from a bit. Make sure that you hold the punch upright to get the best impression. Andi, try to hit it just once. If you hit it twice, the punch might actually jumping a bit of a ghost effect. - The third desk I'm going to use this punch with a flower carved into the top. This is actually my favorite punched Jews were like this one and again I'm going to over that overlap the flowers. That way it actually doesn't matter if not for the petals come out perfectly. Because when they're over that little bit, um, taxi notice the three sort of this success I've got here I'm going to texture with It's Hama. It's a cross being hammer so cool, because the heads were paying of the hammer both straight across Andi, I'm using this home because I want to show you how, um the shape of a hammerhead can change the shape off a piece of silver silver moves at right angles to the head of the hammer. So if you've got around being hammer right angles to the head of this farmer is in every single direction. So the silver ash doesn't stretch your move that much. But right angles to the head of this hammer, if straight across it up and down. So it's actually going to stretch, please Circles to be a little bit over. No. Show you what? I mean, - you have a difference between the two then it will give You have to see that. Well, I just how much has become a bit oval? I'm gonna hammer the flower with same cross being hammer to give that life line effect. But instead of hammering in the same direction up, down, flower which would stretch it on, get it at this nice round shape I'm going to hammer with the hammer lines radiating out of the middle across each petal, - one textured flower. It doesn't matter that the hammer marks in the middle look a bit untidy where they meet because I'm going to soldier one of the balls that we made earlier into the middle on that will hide anymore. 9. Using a Doming Block: I'm not gonna show you how to use the domain block on punches to dough or shape the silver shapes that sounding into adds to the sucking rings. I'm going to use wooden punches to shape, or of the piece of silver that I texted with punches with the hammers, because I don't want you to steal, punch and smooth out the texture that I still want to be there. But I've put the daisy as I cut out, textured into a very large dish. Wouldn't punch try to hold the punches as upright as possible? Yes, that's just this stoned ever so slightly. I want it a little bit deeper than that, so I'm going to swap over to a smaller dish in the domain punch that a little bit of a steeper curve. I hope it in there going punch nice and vertical, essential when the data has got a bit more curve to it. I don't want it's sticking up too much because I don't want the flower to get caught on my clothes as I'm wearing the ring. But that's that's a nice level. That's a nice amount of Domi going to use a smaller punch to shape the slower pieces and just sort of a dish as well. Like, I think I want these a little bit more curved as well. So this morning dish that each time I'm making sure that the shape is central in the bottom of the dome. And I also want to make sure that I don't use a punch, that it's so big compared to the dish that it is going to touch the edges. So this one, we'll definitely be too big for that dish as I haven't eating the ages of the dish with damage. This part of hunch. I don't want that. I'm going to do the same with these last little shapes as well. So I've got all of my shapes. Don't, Andi. I'm going to soldiers all into the middle, off the three round shapes on and the flower. But I'm going to leave the shapes is have become a bit over, as I have with them, as they are. I like to give some would give some of the shapes of a bit of a domed effects because it helps bring them to life. But to get a little bit more interest and also, with shapes actually overlapping the narrower rings being slightly curved helps him to over that the rings a little bit better. 10. Soldering the Silver Balls in Place: little balls that I melted have being cleaned up enough to soldier them onto the embellishments. I've sorted through them and chosen the scientist I want. So I've got one dying in the middle of Daisy. Remember? That's covering up the weather. Hammer marks were meeting or illiterates untidy on one to go in the middle of each of the, uh, round cut textured disks. I'm going to put a look up. This sucks. In the middle of H is that much of the ball to move? At this point, I'm going to be repositioning them, but too much flux there. So I just ventured. I used to paint brush so a little bit more get up. No, I got at a piece of medium soldier to each. So country pick up that ball but the meeting soldier in the middle and then put the ball back on top of it and do the same to the others. The piece of soldier is there on this. It's just a small okay. I don't want to heat these pieces up too quickly. If I do, then the frame is actually more likely to blow your balls off on Duthie for peace. of soldier. So so I'm going to do is almost creep up on the pieces of silver. I'm going to go around thumb which one is to time with the flame. Let's the heat build up slowly and then rush across with the flame to melt the solder and fix everything together. The little ball might move a little bit. In fact, it is pretty likely to move because I am videoing it. Um And if it does, then I'll just use the trees ist I've got in my other hand, um, are you Susan to poke it back? I always have, um, traces in one hand for the torture and the other. So I'm never tempted to poker you seen with my finger. I've always got a tour there to help me heating up around Daisy. First of all, you might see a bit of white white bubbles flux drying off. You also see the state is going a bit darker. Takeover Reddish tinge. Stop rushing across now. You might see the ball moving for better. We go on and no whites in the right position again. This wasn't quite in the right position. It's moved over a little bit as a soldier flow will be up to me. You just broke it back into the middle. Each time I can tell that the soldier has flown that melted. It's a good joy because the color of silver it went a bit red. Andi I also and all of them saw a little flash of liquid silver. Bright silver. A soldier melted. So those now we need to go into the quench pot on, be cleaned up in the pickle, and then they will be ready to solder onto the rings. If the bulls not to have been sold on perfectly every now and again, what will pop off as you pushed in the quench part of, as you put it in the pickle, then all you need to do is clean your work up again. But keep using the pickle and then putting repositioning it, putting more flux, more solder on going through the process, just done again. It happens every now again. It's not the end of the world 11. Preparing the Rings for Soldering: So I've used the instructions in the first video class to make a set of three sucking rings , but this time I've soldered them with medium soldier so I could do some more solving after I can have the embarrassments to afterwards without risking so joined popping open again, I've marked the soldier doing on each ring just so when I do next bit of work, I can see exactly where the joint is easily, and I just used a permanent marker to do that. I need to prepare them a little bit more before I can solder any of the embellishments onto the rings on. And the reason why is the shape off the ring if I This is one of the rings hasn't been prepared to tour yet, but if I hold it onto the back Oh, the daisy, that's I've got prepared here to go on it. Those two surfaces a curving away from each other. There isn't much off a. There isn't a very wide area in common between the two of them. So so she joined isn't going to be very strong. This ring I filed a flatter area at the soldier joint, which means that when I hold the two pieces together, there is an increased surface area in common between the two of them, which means that when I sold that join, it's going to be nice and strong on. And this is how I got that flat area I've done that. One is the truth. I still need to dio I hold the ring on the bench pack so that the joint is just hanging off the end. The reason why do the firing at the join where the ring was sorted together is so that I have the two joints in the same place. It just makes cleaning up the work a lot easier. It was going to use a six inch flat file to file a fat section on the ring. Don't need very much with file, only works going one direction going away from you. That's now slightly flatter area Justin Point, where my my father is there, and that's enough that you're doing more to that one. I who make the social join even stronger by filing an area flat on the back of the daisy as well. You might be able to see where I've done that on the back of the smaller shapes I'm using for embellishments. I'm going to hold a daisy flat on the file. Andi, you're the data back towards the handle. The file is silver are still moving in the right direction, relation to each other to file an area and you can see shine. Your part is worth a bit flatter. So it's going to be even better fit between the ring on the embellishment. So now if Coach the ring's ready on Duthie embellishments ready, it's time to put them together. 12. Soldering The Rings Together: it's time to soldier the rings together Now we immediately into the project. I set up the first ring with the daisy upside down on the soldering block, this soldier in rockets over the old, and it's got a couple of dips in it. What's worn away. So I'm actually using one of those tips. The ball in the middle of the daisy is in one of the dips so that the rest of daisies six nice and flat and doesn't rock about and make life more difficult for me. I've used the third hand to hold the ring shank in place on the back, the daisy. I've made sure that it's nice and vertical. It's not leaning over to the side on bits in the middle off the ring. Andi, the pen mark on the soldier, join. It has to be new, so again, because it's helped me to see where everything needs to be on DTA line everything up properly, I guess, Um, flux carefully. I don't want to knock everything out position. It's a flux onto the ring. Andi, I'm going to put two pieces off Easy soldier beating easy. So this tanks of your medium for everything else and put one each side off the ring shank. So it is flat up foot onto the daisy, but right up against that piece of silver, making up the ring shrink as well. So the ring moved on a bit, but I'm still happy with its position again. I'm going to heat up around the ring, first of all, because I don't want soldiers jump off. I'm just heating up until I can see the flux has dried. Once I got to that stage soldiers very unlike his jump off. I'm about stage now. No, no. So did jump off, but it gives me the option. Should show you what's day. So I just turned the send. So show off underwear adventure Day if you put the soldier back in place, so it's not the end of the world. It does happen. But it's easy to fix. In fact, for a bit more heating, I'm going to teach up with tweezers as well. Anything that is holding onto your work as you're trying to fit it into the right temperature for soldering is a heat sink. It draws heat away from your work, so you want to heat that up as well. Otherwise, it could be used up for a long time. Some ocean 18 between heating up tweets is heating up The ring shine and teaching up back with daisy started fits the right temperature. Okay, Sold a float nicely. Now there's a nice join. So to join running all with away across that flatter area that I sold it on to the ring onto the back of Daisy. And so now she'll check those aren't too hot. Quench the ring pop since the pickle. I also wanted to show you a different way of setting up the ring for solving together a way that doesn't need a severed hand that had is useful. I find them very useful, but they're not essential. So I've got a pair of bent nose tweezers here holding the ring shank. I've puts the one of the small round disks with the ball sold in the middle into another dip on the soldering block. I'll go see if I can get these tweezers to hold the ring shank into place. Hey there. Holding everything nicely. So again, I'm going toe at a little bit off flux. Andi, A couple of small pieces of ET soldier. So I got one piece of easy soldier either side of the the ring. Trust me, it is there. I'm not going to the same before he chucked the ring slowly. See if we can get the soldiers to stay where we put it. This son, I can see the flaps astride off so it heats up. The tweets is otherwise. I'm going to draw heat anyway away from the ring so most will speed things up a bit. It's the ring shine on and that this is well on. The soldier has motion. Yeah, so that ring needs to be quenched on pickled andare, so 13. Polishing: So I've taken seven lovely clean star healings, please. Little bits of embellishments after the pickle. A nice and clean, but they they certainly need polishing. I could use a polishing cloth, the same as I did at the end of the 1st 2nd Wings video, but I want to show you something different this time. This is the tumbler that I briefly show to my show you the soldering equipment. Andi. It's a foul with staying still shot inside different shapes, different sizes. There's water with a couple of cops off. Washing up liquid inside as well is going to pop the rings in with a couple of other bits. Since I was working on that early in the day, in there as well done, there are different styles of tumblers. I particularly like mine because it's fast Onda, and it's easy to get the lead on and off. It doesn't mean that I paid for the extra for it, but I use it so much in my workshops on the classes I teach does. It was definitely worth it, so it's it's all sealed up. It goes on on the motor tonight on Onda Way. Okay, right then the tumblers finished. Not so for soapy suds up at the top here that have done the work of clean silver as the bitter shot of being polishing it sets. See what we've got. It's hopefully be seven rings in here. Five, six, seven, seven My shiny rings. Okay, um, dried up, but more presentable. But we've got seven nice shiny rings at the end off the project. 14. Conclusion: I hope you enjoy the class. You should now be to put the two video, listen together and make both planes sucking wings and some this a little bit fun. Seems well. Do you really make comment to be grossly questions I think I can help with Get back to since I can on Don't forget still loads the information or ring sizing on the equipments that these videos use. Thank you for watching. 15. BONUS: Using Solder Paste: This is the second part off a bonus video that showing you how to use solder paste to make stacking rings instead of the traditional side form of soldier. The first part of this extra video is on the end of the first stacking rings fast. In that video, I showed how to use medium solder paste to soldier. The ring itself closed. Are you medium solder? Because I wanted to add an embellishment onto the top of the ring. I'm going to use easy soldier pace that you can see here to soldier. The embellishment on took the ring, and that means that the medium soldier, which has got higher melting temperature that I used on the ring, isn't going to remote rolling a joint. The decorations on putting on the top of the ring is this were these little flowers flowers I cut out of no 0.5 millimeter sheet textures it with lines radiating out from the middle on. There's a little melted ball off silver in the middle of that hiding, worthy linesman met up a little bit untidy. Andi, I've already on the example of what set up. I've really filed a site, a flat area on also filed a flat area on the join. So there's a better surface area joined between the two of them. Is going to form a better soldier. Join a stronger soldiers join the flower is upside down on old sobering blockers. I have is quite a soft one that you can see over the years. It's picked up quite a few knocks and dips in it, but they're really useful because it means that something like the flower that's what a curve to it can sit inside one of those dips. Andi, it's there nice and steady for when I'm putting the ring shank onto the back, I'm using a pair of reverse action tweezers to hold the ring shank in place on the back of the flower, the black marks that you might just be out to sea on the ring Shank isn't so to pay some pushed on. Yet that's actually a permanent marker pen mark that I used just so I could see where the join waas and where I filed to make a better surface area. So now I'm gonna put the easy soldier in place on so for everything together as you can see you don't see very much solder. I put a little bit on each side of the ring, Andi, because that soldier of syringes quite a new one. I pulled back on the plunger after I finished, because otherwise, as its new the soldier was continue to sneak out the tip. But I don't want to waste it. So next job is actually to solve it together. I'm putting some heat into the tweeze is their heat sink. That means that they're drawing heat away from the sylvus. If I just heat silver up the steel, which draw heat away from it anyway, you might see a little bit of smoke appearing. Might also see a tiny green flame. Don't. Why about either? Those are perfectly normal. It's the binder in the soldier place burning off. But that doesn't mean that you need to use sold apace in a good French related area, making sure that I'm heating everything evenly. - The soldiers now flown. I don't know whether you saw a bright flash of liquid soldier just boned by the join, but you might be able to see just there. The tip of the soldier sort of pick is a slight, brighter area. That's the soldier that's flown across there, and it should also be the same on the other side se everything soldier together. So there's one new sucking ring needs quenching pickling, making sure that everything's looking nice and firm. Andi then polishing.