Sign Painting: Cafe Signs. Create an authentic hand-painted wood sign. | Wendy Brookshire | Skillshare

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Sign Painting: Cafe Signs. Create an authentic hand-painted wood sign.

teacher avatar Wendy Brookshire, Artist, Designer and Illustrator

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

12 Lessons (1h 4m)
    • 1. Welcome to Sign Painting!

    • 2. Materials Needed

    • 3. Prepare your Pattern

    • 4. Color Considerations

    • 5. A Quick Talk About Milk Paint

    • 6. Painting the Sign Background

    • 7. Painting the Shadow Part 1

    • 8. Painting the Shadow Part 2

    • 9. Painting the Main Lettering Part 1

    • 10. Painting the Main Lettering Part 2

    • 11. Painting the Border

    • 12. Finishing Your Sign

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About This Class

In my Sign Painting: Cafe Signs class I'll be walking you through my process for painting an authentic hand-painted wooden sign to decorate your home. With 10 different sign designs provided for you, you can choose which sign to paint that best fits your space. 

Hand painted signs can add character and interest to your home, lending a sense of time or place to a space. They can look crisp and new or vintage and worn. When designing a sign, my goal is to create work that recaptures that authentic feel of an old sign. The careful and considered choices of typeface or hand-lettering style, letter spacing, size, shadows, decorative elements, colors, and the words chosen, all add to the authenticity and credibility of a sign. For this class I have designed the signs already, so we'll be focusing on the painting of the signs. 

No previous painting skills are necessary, so this is a great beginner class.

Meet Your Teacher

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Wendy Brookshire

Artist, Designer and Illustrator


HI! I'm an artist, designer and illustrator, born and raised in Colorado (USA). My days are filled with designing and art directing for a university, my nights are filled with painting, drawing and illustrating projects that make me happy.

Love to hike, kayak, camp and garden when I'm not at the drawing table or easel.

Instagram: @wendylynndesign

Visit my website for my shop and latest painting projects:

See full profile

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1. Welcome to Sign Painting!: Hello and welcome to Psych painting class. My name is Wendy. I'm an artist and designer. And today I will be showing you my process for creating a hand painted sign. So the sign said that we're going to be working on today are Cafe and specialty food shop signs. So I have created ten different sign designs for you to choose from. And they're all included in the PDFs where you can just download and print off the pattern that you like. I'm going to go over the materials that you'll need in this class. We'll talk about some color considerations for you to keep in mind when you're choosing your paint colors. We'll talk a little bit about paint will also go into how to transfer your pattern from the paper onto the wood, how to actually paint your sine. And then we'll talk about finishing options. So if you guys are ready, let's jump right into materials so we can get started on painting our science. 2. Materials Needed: Let's talk about the materials that you'll need for this class. So the first thing that you will need to do is to print off the pattern from the PDF that's included in the class. On the first page of this, you can see the 10 different signs that are included along with the page numbers of the PDF where you can find the signs. So once you choose the sign that you went to paint, when you go to the first page of that sign pattern, you'll see the name of the sign up here and then paint the tea room sign. And right underneath that you will see the woods size that you need. So on this one it says one by six number 34 inches in length. Now the one by six number we're using for all of these signs, the length differs depending on the sign that you choose. So this right here is a piece of one by six lumber. It's about an inch thick and then it's six inches from top to bottom is how it gets its name. But what's important to know is there's actually 5.5 inches from top to bottom. And that's important. So when you print off your pattern, print this pattern at actual size. And you can check to make sure that it's printing out the correct size by measuring from the dotted line on the top to the dotted line on the bottom. This is the outline of the wood. This is 5.5 inches to match the width of the wood. You'll need a way to transfer the pattern onto the piece of wood. So you can use a transfer paper like this is a common brand of transfer paper. It comes in colors and it comes on this graphite color as well. You can also use, and this is what I prefer to use, either a piece of chalk or a pastel pencil. These are really easy to erase, so I like to use those. You need a pair of scissors, some tape, and eraser for those straight lines. You'll need a pencil to transfer the art from the pattern onto your sign. And I like to use a mechanical pencil because you can get a nice sharp point on it. You'll need a hole punch to register the pattern onto the wood. You'll also need some sandpaper. So with sandpaper, it comes with different numbers. So the lower the number, the grittier the sandpaper is. So I usually have a just doesn't have to be specific. This is just what I have around right now. I usually have like a 150 and for this one, I'll just go over the wood really quickly to get out any splinters. So then this is another this is another number that I use. This is 220 because the number is higher, the grit is softer. And so I'll use this for a little bit of finishing. If I went to rough up the paint a little bit, if I want to antique the paint a little bit or just make the woods show through. I can use either one of these sandpaper works fine. And then I like to have a much smoother. So this is a 320, so it's a much smoother grid. And I use this on my lettering itself. So after I paint my lettering, if I feel like I want to smooth it out, which often I do with the paint that I use. Or if I just want to knock that paint back just a little bit and let the shadow or the background show through. This is a really good grip to use for that. So this is a 320 grid. And again, even if you only have one of these, that'll work fine, you don't need to have all these. I just happened to have these laneway and so the next thing that you'll want to get is your paint brushes. So you can use a bigger paintbrush for putting the background color on. And for that, I actually use these brushes now this is called golden HAC line. It's from Blick, the online art store. And I just like these because they're very smooth. I don't lose any bristles out of here. And these are old brushes. I had these for several years. And they hold up really well. And I like them. They're a little bit small for the background, but it just takes me a minute or two longer, so it's no big deal. So I like using these. You can also use something like this. These are available at any hardware store, home improvement, these are super cheap brushes. This, this size probably costs maybe a dollar or $2. And you can get those in different sizes. And then you'll need some brushes are actually doing your lettering work. So these are the brushes that I use. These are lettering brushes. And I like these because they have a nice long bristle on them, so they hold a lot of paint and also makes it really nice if you're doing straight line, it's really easy to get a straight stroke out of them. And when you're going around curves, there's a lot of bristle there. Just to kinda get a nice smooth curve when you're going around curves on letters. And then this is a script liner in it also has long has long bristles for the same reason. Now these are not necessary. You don't need lettering brushes at all. You can use whatever brushes you have, whatever you're comfortable with. These are just the ones that I'm used to using and they work really well for me. So those are my brushes. Now you also need paint. So you can choose whatever kind of paint you are comfortable with. Anything that will work well on wood, and that could be latex acrylic chalk paint. I use milk paint, and so this is my paint here is a powdered paint and I mix it with water. And I like milk paint because it gives me the finish that I really like. It's a very soft finish. It looks relatively antique, which I really like without me doing a whole lot of extra work to it. So this is the paint that I will be using. So I need water as well to mix with my paint. And I'll have water to wash my brushes with. And then I will use a rag just to clean some stuff up and to draft my brushes. And for the finishing of your sign, if you want to put a coating on your spine, like a protective coating, you can do that as well. And this is one option. It's a acrylic based crystal clear coat, and this works pretty well. I like this brand because it's water-based and you can just wash your brushes out. You don't need any chemicals to wash your brushes. And it comes in like clear satin. You can get it in a matte finish, I believe, and then also in a gloss finish. So this works really well as a coating over your sign at the very end if you wish to protect it. So I recommend also finding a little piece of wood that you can practice on. So this is just a piece of plywood that I had laying around. You can do a scrap if you get your woodcut and you have a little bit extra cutoff, you can use that as well. And it's just to practice. You can practice your painting. You can test your colors. You can see how your paint will be affected if you sand it, you can try different finishes. This is just a really valuable thing to have so you can test whatever you want to test before you get to your sign. So I highly recommend finding a little practice piece to work with. So now that we have all of our materials assembled, we'll put our pattern together in the next video, we'll talk a little bit about color and then we'll get started painting. 3. Prepare your Pattern: So let's put our pattern together really quick. So once you print the pages that you need for the sign that you are going to paint. You can choose one side of the pattern that you're going to cut. So if you see on each pattern piece, I have a dotted line. And then the center ones that's on each side and there's a letter associated with that dotted line. So on one side of your pattern, and it doesn't matter which one, you just have to be consistent throughout the entire pattern. Choose a side, either the left side or the right side to trim your pattern. So I'll do the right side. So just trim right along the dotted line. Just like that. And then in the middle you don't have to be real careful about it. Just cut up to the next dotted line and sram on that darker line. Okay? And then do that on each piece of paper on the same side. So I started on the right side, so I'll do it on the right side on every piece of paper. So just trim on the dotted line, it up and trim on the second line. So now what you wanna do is take your tape and align your pattern so that the two arrows meet up in the middle. So make sure that it's the right letter. So a matches with a, align your little arrows like this. And then if you see, even if you cut it, cricket, which I really did, the letter will match up. So I have to do to worry about is aligning those arrows. And then once they're aligned, does add a little bit of tape. And we'll be trimming around this dotted line right here. So make sure that you're taping at least partially inside that dotted line because that will get cut off. And then you just move down your pattern and you continue the same thing. So on this one, I will line up my B arrow with my other B arrow down at the bottom. Take a quick glance and make sure that the outline of the letter is all lined up. And then tape that together. So once you have the pattern all taped together, you can cut it out along this dotted line here that will line up with the outside border of your wood. And your pattern will be ready to use. 4. Color Considerations: So let's talk about color choices for your sign. Now you can use whatever colors that you like. You can match your TA core, you can pick whatever color that you like. So for this one, you see that I have kind of a midtone background. It's kind of a middle color blue. And then for the shadow, I have used a dark blue and I've used a contrasting white color for the lettering. So usually what I'm trying to pick what I start with and sometimes I vary from this, I alter from this. But when I'm just starting to pick out colors for a sign, I will think about the main color that I want the sine to appear and that's going to be my background color. So when you look at this sign, the overall color you see is blue. And then from there I'm going to pick my shadow color. And that's usually a darker color of this background color. Because if you think about it, if you have a solid object and it is casting a shadow on a colored surface, the shadow that a CAS is just going to be a darker, deeper color of that color from the the surface. So that's i kinda start with that theory when I'm choosing my sign colors. Now, for this one I used white and that contrasts really well with the blue is a different tone. So if we talk about tone, this is kind of a midtone, middle Darkness, kind of color. This is a dark tone, those shadow because it's a very dark color. And then the whites are really light tone. So those three work really well together because they contrast off each other. And the lettering, the white really pops off, especially with that dark tone behind it. So for this example here, I have done something similar where I have a medium brown tone in the background. I did a dark brown tone for these two letters for the shadow. And for this one, I used a light as kind of a cement light brown color for the lettering. And you can see how well that be just, it just pops right off that background. Now here is the same Macron and shadow color, but I use this dark red. And because this red tone is about the same as this dark background shadow tone, this letter just gets lost. It gets muddy. If you look at it from any kind of a distance, it just gets fuzzy and muddy and it's really hard to see the outline of that letter. Here. It's very easy for you to see the shape of the B, which lets it be very legible to you and you can read what it says here. All of a sudden you're getting a little like a kind of a weird shape. And it's not real recognizable letter shape because it kinda blends with this background. Now over here on the K, this is just a little bit different. So I used a light background color on this one. And so the background is kinda the light tone. The shadow that I used is the mid-tone, and then I have a dark letter on top of it. And then I wanted to try something on a white background just for an example. So on this white background, what I've done here in the center on the R is I used a very light gray shadow and then I used a very dark gold are on top of it. This one is probably the most sophisticated of the samples here on this, on this card. Just because it's really believable that this shadow would appear on this white background. So it looks believable, It's really subtle. There's a good example of not a whole lot of contrast between your shadow color as your background color. Some of these others, there's a really big contrast between this blue and this really dark blue here for the shadow. And so it's kind of a jarring contrast still works really well, but it's a big contrast here. There's just a very subtle, subtle contrast. So you're not even really going to see that shadow when you look at the sign from across the room, all it's gonna do is help this letter pop off and it's going to give it some depth, but it's now going to be really obvious. So this is a really nice color combination. Now over here on the y and the E, What I tried to do was I used the same color for the shadow that I used for the letter, just a very light version of it. So when the why I use this really kind of light blue-gray and it works okay. It's, there's enough contrast between the shadow in the background for you to see the shadow. And there's enough contrast between the shadow and the letter for you to see the letter. It's a little bit close in tone, but it still works okay? On this one. However, there's plenty of contrast between the shadow and the background, but there's not very much contrast between the letter and the shadow. So this is another example of something that happened here on the a has to be the same color is that you get kind of a weird shaped letter and you can't really distinguish what you're looking at it from a distance. So because there isn't enough contrast between the letter and the shadow, this is not a good color combination to use. If I wanted to use a white background with a red, I would choose probably a gray shadow are very, very light pink shadow. It doesn't have to be the same color as the background. You can kind of use your artistic license a little bit to change those colors up. But the tone is the most important thing that you have to keep in mind to make sure that you can really distinguish the main lettering of your sign from the background and the shadow. So now that we've gone over some color, Let's start painting. 5. A Quick Talk About Milk Paint: So go ahead and prepare your background paint color. Now if you're using milk paint, if this is the first time you've used milk paint, all you do is measure your paint one-to-one with water to start with. And so I have a few teaspoons of paint here in my bowl. And I'm just going to add some water. This is not an exact science, so just add some water and then you can add more water if you need it. And I like to use an old paint brush to mix it up. And it does take a minute to mix this up. So what I'd like to do for my background, color on my sign is I like to do two or three a thinner coats. And I like the thin coats because it goes on nice and even you don't have a lot of brush strokes and you don't have a lot of bumps and unevenness in your paint. So I prefer to do a little bit thinner paint. And even if you're using like a chalk paint or an acrylic paint, you can water it down a little bit. And the reason I like to do two or three coats is because I like to build up that color. So when I go to sand it, if I went to anti-gay or sanded a little bit, It's not just one layer of paint That's going to come off from the nice seat there would. So there's little bit of layering to work with that or and this needs a little bit more letter. This is a good consistency to start with for me. So I'm going to do my first layer with this paint here. And then what I might end up doing is adding just a little bit more water if it thickens because since milk paint is made with a powder, it does settle and the paint will think and a little bit. So you can just add water throughout the, throughout your painting process to thin it down. What do you need to? But this is good. So we're gonna get started with this. 6. Painting the Sign Background: Now we're finally ready to paint. So the first thing you wanna do is prepare your wood a little bit and all you have to do is a very rough sanding. So right here I've got my 150 sandpaper and I'm just going to sand off any splinters I see and round the corners just a tiny bit. So it's a little bit nicer to handle. Just wipe off all that sawdust and good. Because milk paint is a it's a powdered paint and you mix it up. Sometimes you get these little bits of light there. You get these little bits of pigment that don't mix up completely. And I actually really like when that happens, I just kinda leave them and it gives it, you get kinda get a nice streaky look in your paint if you don't mind. And I don't, I kinda like it. So that's kind of a fun, fun side effect to using no paint. Okay. So that the edges of your, of your board as well as you're painting the background, just go ahead and get the edges of your board. When you're first coat of paint is dry, you can come in and do your next coat. And you can see on this board, because I left my paint very watery and you can do this with acrylic or whatever kind of paint you're using. You can water it down a little bit or leave it That's full thickness. And this is just a good example of what looks like when you water it down, you can really see that green comes through and you can see little imperfections of the wood that kind of pop out, which I really like. But this just gives you the choice of doing as many coats as you need to. So I'll probably end up needing to do three coats on this if I leave the paint as thin as it is right now. So let's go ahead and work on our second coat. So let this dry, then we'll be ready to transfer a pattern. And at this point, the way it looks is the way it's going to look. I'm not going to fix anything else. I'm not going to try to smooth it out anymore. It's going to look a little rustic and it will look a little old, and that's how I want it to be. So this is perfect and we'll let it dry and move on to the next step. 7. Painting the Shadow Part 1: So while we're waiting for the paint to dry, I'm going to go ahead and get my pattern ready. If you're using transfer paper, you don't have to worry about this step, but I'm just going to transfer with chalk. So I'm using my light box. You can use a window if you don't have a light box like this. And just on the backside, just put chalk or your pastel pencil all over the lines. And I do all the lines. So you only really have to do this once. It makes it just a little bit easier when I'm, when I'm painting. So just rub your chalk all over the lines that you need to transfer. Now just I just shake this over the trash can just to get the just the loose little pieces and most of the dust off. And then I just leave it and it's ready to use. So once your background is completely dry, we are ready to transfer our pattern. So I showed you, I already put chalk on the back of mine. So if you're using chalk, that should be done. And the outline of the sign, that big dotted line that we cut on is approximately the size of your wood. Now, sizes are not exact when we're working with these pieces of wood. So it might be a tiny bit bigger, tiny bit smaller than your piece of wood. So you can just make a little adjustment, just move your pattern up or down. It doesn't really matter that much. So you'll want to use your tape and align your pattern best you can from edge to edge and top to bottom. And then your tape. Okay, and now this is where the hole punch comes in handy. What we're gonna do is we're going to go around and in several places we're just going to do a little hole punch and we're not gonna do it within the areas that we're going to be painting. So don't do it within the lettering. Just do it in random spots and get rid of that little piece paper. And you could do it on the edge. You can do it further in. And I just kinda go around and do about three or four of these. And you don't want to like lined up at all, just do a completely random. Okay. So once we have our holes punched, at this point, if you're using your transfer paper, go ahead and slip your transfer paper up underneath your pattern. And if you're using your transfer paper, those holes that you just punched, just use your pencil and draw a line on the inside of that hole. So just like trace on the whole through your transfer paper. If you don't have transfer paper like me, you can use your chalk or one of these pastel pencils and just go in and color in the little hole. And we will need to erase these. So make sure whatever pencil you're using, the truck you're using as easily erased. That's why I like these pastel pencils because they erase very easily. So if you have any little pieces of paper hanging off, just kinda get rid of those and just fill in your registration. So these are our registration marks for the sign. Just double-check, just try to kind of fill in the hole as well as you can from side to side. Okay, and now we are ready to our first layer of pattern. So what we're gonna do is we're going to paint the shadow first. And that's what this little dotted line is. We have a solid line that's up into the left and then we have a dotted line that's lower and to the right. So with your pencil, just trace over the entire sign on the dotted line. So when you're tracing, try to do just one line. Don't go over it a bunch of times because then you're going to end up with a bunch of chalk lines on your sign. So just do one nice smooth line. And you don't have to press two heartbeats or pencil. But do a test. After you've done a little bit, lift up your pattern just to make sure that you can see your, your chalk line, okay? Make sure that your pressures okay. And make sure that everything is coming out okay. Now you might be wondering, by this time, this is the shadow that we're tracing. The dotted line is the shadow. The reason that I do the entire letter. So I have a couple of reasons why I do that whole letter on the shadow. One of them is because it's hard to paint just a partial area. Like if we were just to paint the part of the shadow that that you'll see at the end of this process when the sign is done. So it would be this portion here, under here, not the entire letter. We were only to paint that it would be very choppy looking. And when you paint the entire letter, especially since this is your first layer on your sign, It's nice that that's nice and smooth. So when you're using your brush and you're doing a brushstroke around here, it's going to be a lot smoother than if you're trying to get just this little area here and you're doing just a tiny area here. And then you've got this little tiny area right here, this line that you're trying to paint. It's so much easier. It's actually takes a lot less time to paint the entire letter. You don't have to worry about where the the, the main letter, the top letters going to hit just we just paint the shadow and then we'll paint over it. Another reason I like to do that is because I like to have those layers of paint so that when I get to my main lettering color, if I wanted to say on that awful little bit, I can have my background color show through and I also get some of that shadow showing through at different places and it gives it a lot of depth. So as retracing this, if you're wondering why we're doing the entire letter, that's why. So when you're done tracing your shadow and you just check to make sure that you've got all your lines on there. And go ahead and remove your pattern. Just untainted and set it to the side for next. 8. Painting the Shadow Part 2: So just put some paint on your brush. Not so much, it's going to drip. And then when you have a nice straight line like this, just press your paintbrush down until it hits the line. And then just bring your arm down in a nice smooth motion and get that nice straight line. And at the end, you can just use the tip of your brush and come around and do those little serif details. You might have one side that's easier for you to paint. And I do too. If you're in a position where you can move your signs sometimes that helps. I'm not going to move my science so you can see what I'm doing. But sometimes I have to go up on a stroke. It's a little awkward, but sometimes it's just hard for me to paint depending on where I'm sitting and where I'm looking. Is that sometimes it's hard for me to paint when the lines on this side, so I'll try it here. It's a little wiggly. I'm a little bit better at going up. So you can just experiment with how these lines work for you. Paint. And I like, especially on my shadow, I only like to do one layer. The background is super easy, it's quick. You can do as many layers as you want into, doesn't take any time. The lettering takes a lot more time. So I like to make sure that my paint is the consistency that I can do one layer and I'm going to like the color of the paint. So this is a little bit thicker than the paint that I used on the background. So I don't have to go over it a bunch of times. So just fill in your letter and you come down here. You can use a smaller brush if it's more comfortable. Just hit those little serifs, come right across and fill it in. So we used a pattern that was created from type, perfect lettering, perfect type. And then we traced that. We're really careful to trace it. So make sure that your lines stay straight and you get all those details. But you'll see as we start painting those, the perfect mix of this really starts to fall away and it really looks hand painted because it's hard to get those little details just perfect. And so it really does, even though we start with perfect looking type, this is definitely going to look like a hand painted sign by the time we're done with it, which really adds to the character. The sign. If by chance when you're painting, you have a little portion like these little serifs that you either wipe off with your hand as you're going across or they just didn't transfer. Thus perfectly okay. Just wing it, eyeball it, it'll be fine. It'll look fine at the end of the process. Also keep in mind that this is the shadow layer. So a lot of this, like I explained who we were transferring the pattern, a lot of this will get covered up by the top layer of lettering. But I just try not to think about that too much while I'm painting because I want those strokes to be, this is why I do the full shadow is because I want those strokes to be one stroke. I don't want to have to move around and do these little tiny pieces, as you can see just from the serifs. It's a little hard to to get in there and do those little pieces. So for the rest of it, I just like to make nice smooth strokes. If I want to say and this afterwards, I can just sand at all. I don't have to worry about what parts are going to show and what parts aren't going to show. So it does make it it makes it easier for me when I paint the entire shadow instead of trying to do a little pieces and parts. But that being said, you don't have to be perfect with this because a lot of it will be covered up. So don't worry too much if you have little things that you don't like. We can sand it off later or it might be covered up too. So I always kinda look at my shadow. So it's kind of a practice run where I can get into the groove of painting, figure out what my lettering looks like. And by the time I get to the upper layer, it goes a lot quicker. When we go around curves like on the R and the OH, here. I tried to use the side of my brush more than the tip. And it's sometimes very tempting to try to do this. And I I do have to do that in smaller areas, but I tried to use the side of my brush. And if you can get that stroke where you're just following the curve of the letter. It gives you a nice clean edge to your letter. And I find that if I'm hesitant or I try to use the edge of my brush too much, it gets really choppy. So whenever I can and try to just lay my brush down and just go right around the edge of that curve. This can be a little bit easier if you have more paint on your brush. The reason I don't have a lot of paint on my brushes because I am painting almost vertically and I don't want a bunch of drips. So, but if you're painting on a flat surface, that gives you a little bit more leeway to have some more paint on your brush because it's not going to drip anywhere. And sometimes that helps you can get just kinda squish the paint out till it hits that line. And then just pull your brush through. So your paints covering up that line. Okay. Hi. Okay. Okay. There's our shadow done. So we need to let this dry. And after it's dry, I'll come back. I'm going to take a look at mine and see if I like it the way it is. Or if I want to knock the color back a little bit, I can just take a little bit of sandpaper to it, but I'll see how it looks when it dries. This over here is already pretty dry so I can see how dark it is. And that's it. Don't try to be too fussy with this. Don't try to go meet your liner or fix anything up. It's going to be fine the way it is. 9. Painting the Main Lettering Part 1: My 220 sort of got 220 here and I think this is 320. I'm going to take the 200 21st. I'm going to go along and just sand this just a little bit. I don't want to completely take it off, but I want to just make us was maybe it's not quite so even. So it doesn't take much pressure and it doesn't take much sanding. I'm just going to refer to so just a few areas. It just adds a tiny bit aware. I don't want to overdo it. I'm just going to add just a tiny bit aware to the lettering so it doesn't look quite so Chris. And get your pattern back out. And this is when you want to use your registration marks. So find your registration marks and align your pattern. So each hole of your pattern has that registration mark showing through. And you kinda go along when one of them lines up, kind of make the tape make the tape step right there. Sometimes with these long patterns, they get a little bit warped, little wrinkly. So just kinda make sure that all of the registration marks are lined up with your holes. And just take the pattern back on. And if you're using your tracing, the transfer paper, you can put that transfer paper backup here now. And then we want to trace the solid lettering, which will be our main lettering for the sign. So just do the same thing we did with the shadow. Just use the solid thick line and trace that. And at this point in time, you can also trace the border if you like. You can either do it in this stage or you can wait till the next one. If you're a fragile, like wipe it off when you're painting this one. So it's kind of up to you. You can trace it now or you can wait. So just check to make sure that all of your lines transferred. And then you can take the pattern away. And if you've already traced the outline, you won't need your pattern again. So what I like to do with this top layer of lettering is I usually have my paint relatively thin. Now this will, this will dry just a little bit more opaque than it looks right now. It's a little bit transparent right now, but it won't be completely opaque. And the reason that I like to do that is because when you water your paint down a little bit, especially with milk paint, but I think it works with other kinds of paint to when you water your paint down, it doesn't leave you a very solid opaque layer. It's very light here. But I go through and I leave it like this. And then when I'm done and the paint's dry, I can come back and I can take a look at it and see if I like it looking really modeled or if I want to make it look a little bit more solid. And that gives me the choice of how worn I went this sign to look. So for this pass through, it looks a little bit light, but this is just so we can make the determination later on if we want to make that more solid or from 1 to leave it looking so it's a little bit warm. Okay. In this movie. Okay. 10. Painting the Main Lettering Part 2: Hi. So my second coat of lettering has dried. And you'll see there's still a lot of variation in the color of my paint. And I did that on purpose. I left my paint watery. So I could put another thin layer on top because I really liked this variation that I can get. It looks very natural. It looks very worn. And it's just it just kinda naturally happens with the paint when it's a little bit watered down. So I'm really happy with this color. I think this lighter tone, which so this is my light tone, is really good contrast with the shadow and the background. And I think it looks, it looks nice and, and worn, but it still looks bright so you can see it from across the room. So what I'm gonna do is I'm going to take my 320 sandpaper. So this is like it's like a wet or dry sandpaper. 320, it's a very soft very soft grids. So because I put my milk paint on very splotchy and I didn't, I tried not to make it really smooth because I wanted this variation. It's a little bit rough because it's a very dry paint. It it's very powdery and it dries to almost a powder finish. So I'm just going to take my software sandpaper That's 320 grit. And I'm just going to gently rub just to smooth it down. I'm not going to rub off hardly any pain. You probably won't see any kind of a difference after I'm done doing this. But it makes it feel a little bit softer. It makes it look a little, this little smoother. And so I'm just going to go along and do that. Okay. I really like the way that looks. I think I'm going to call it done with the lettering. I'm going to go around and just do a little bit more erasing. If I have any little chalk lines showing up, I'm just gonna get rid of those and then we're going to be ready to paint the border. 11. Painting the Border: So our next step is going to be painting the border around the sign. And when we paint was drawing, I did a little tester, a piece on my sample board. And I was pretty convinced that I wanted to do a brighter gold around the edge. And I did this sample and I didn't like it. So I decided instead to use this blue right here, which is the same as the shadow color. So I'm just going to use what I use for my shadow. And I'll make a nice kind of subtle border around the edge of it and it'll finish the sign-off really well. So that's the color that I am going to go with for my sign. Hello. Okay. Yeah. Now that your border is painted and dry, we are almost ready to finish our sign. So the very last step before we put our clear codon is I'll just take an eraser and I'll clean up the little chalk lines. I'll get rid of my registration marks that are still on the sign. And then I'm going to take some sandpaper and I'm going to go around the border and just roughen it up a little bit. Just so it kinda matches my shadow a little bit more. It's a little bit dark, It's a little crisp and I just want to I just want to rough it up just a tiny bit. So I'm going to use my eraser first and then I'm going to do some sanding. And then I should be ready to move on to our final step, which is putting on our clear coat. Hello. 12. Finishing Your Sign: So I've just missed my sign off for like easel. It's a little bit easier for me to put the clear coat on when it's on a horizontal surface. And I'm going to use this brush. It's just a flat paintbrush. It's pretty soft. You can use on with a little bit rougher bristles, but I just happen to have this one and so I just grabbed it. It doesn't matter a whole lot with your clear coat. If you have brushstrokes in it, it's kind of self-leveling. So if you're just be really smooth about it, those brushstrokes should go away. If they don't, you can take a very high grit sandpaper like a 400 and Santa just a tiny bit and do it again. Brushstrokes will go away. So I'm just going to use this we talked about in the materials section. It's a water-based acrylic coat that will put a, this is a clear Staten. So it's not too shiny, but it's just a tiny bit shiny. So it looks finished because it's such an adult service. I want it to look a little bit more finished and you just brush it on just like your paint. So it's also want to remember to hit the sides of your sign with this. So I just try to work down the saline and just try to catch all the bubbling leak. If there's any trips or if there's knitting, make overfishing. And we'll just try to get a little bit. And then just move down. You want to move relatively quickly with this just because you don't want to get a line or you're clear code is going to dry. So just move relatively quickly with this one. Okay, Good. So when you're when you're finishing, just kinda take a look at your sign in the light. It's a little hard to see on camera, but get a light source, just take it to a window. Just take a look just to kind of see if you've got all the spots, if there's any spots that are missing or be clear coat, just go ahead and find those and do do a little bit of touch-up. And that's it. That says easy it is for that final coat. That is done. So we finished our side. I hope you guys had a good time doing this. I had a great time teaching and showing you my process for sine painting. If you have any comments or questions, be sure to leave them below and I will get back to you. Or you can reach me through my website at windy Lin And there's a contact form on there and you can reach out to me and I'll get back to you. You can check out my other classes on Skillshare and I'm also going to assume becoming out with even more sign painting classes. So thanks again for painting along with me. I hope you had a good time and I'll see you in the next class.