Sewing in Style: An Introduction to Clothing Construction | Justine Kohn | Skillshare

Sewing in Style: An Introduction to Clothing Construction

Justine Kohn, Pattern Maker, Sewist, Graphic Designer

Sewing in Style: An Introduction to Clothing Construction

Justine Kohn, Pattern Maker, Sewist, Graphic Designer

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9 Lessons (51m)
    • 1. Welcome to Sewing in Style

    • 2. Tools of the Trade

    • 3. Measurement Up

    • 4. Let's Draft

    • 5. Cut It Up

    • 6. Turn the Ties

    • 7. On the Bias

    • 8. Let's Finish This

    • 9. Strut Your Stuff

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About This Class

This is an introductory course in basic clothing construction.  You will learn to draft a top using a few simple measurements, how to create waist ties, how to finish raw edges using bias tape, and how to make 2 different sized hems. Using these skills each student will create a custom fit 50’s style wrap shirt. This course is for beginners through advanced sewist, especially those in love with the iconic look of the 50’s.

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Justine Kohn

Pattern Maker, Sewist, Graphic Designer


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1. Welcome to Sewing in Style: welcome to my skill share class sewing in style, An introduction decoding construction. My name is Justine Limit, and I am so excited to teach you some basic sewing skills. After you complete this course, you should have the confidence and knowledge to conquer a number of projects, starting with this one right now. As you follow along, the videos will take you step by step. In constructing this iconic fifties rapture, we'll begin by going over all the materials that then I will teach you how to use your measurements, and then we'll use those measurements to draft a custom pattern just for you. We'll talk about bias state and how to use it to make clean professional finishes will go over different neckline and how to make waste eyes, and we'll finish off the project by going over how to make hems. This is a great project for beginners and a nice refresher course for the advance soloist. All I know, everyone who participates will come out with a fun, flattering custom fit top to wear and show off. Are you ready? Let's get started 2. Tools of the Trade: Welcome back. Before we get started on a project, let's go over the tools and materials you will need. Let's go take a look. One of the things I really like about this project that you only need a few things. First off, you'll need a tape measure, a notebook and a writing utensil to take and record your measurements. Keep that writing utensil handy. We'll use it along with some Kraft paper, to draft our custom pattern. I personally use cheap Kraft paper that you'll find next to Ziploc bags at your local WalMart. But you can use anything from piece together, printer, paper toe, actual pattern paper. Or, if you're feeling really adventurous, you can go straight to your fabric. Most of you will need 1.5 to 2 yards of fabric for this project. Depending on your measurements, there are a variety of fabrics that will work well for this project. You can choose from a light week quilting fabric to more heavyweight flannel. Either way, you're generally safe if you choose any medium toe lightweight woven fabric with little to no stretch. As you were picking out your fabric, be sure to grab a coordinating thread to match your fabric. Then, once you have picked these out, you need to decide on your bias tape. You can go with a matching bias tape or a contrast in color that will give your shirt a little pop. There are a couple different sizes and types of my estate, but make sure you get single fold half inch tape for this project. You can also pick out some matching buttons. Some other things you will need our sewing pins or binder clips. A straight ruler. I prefer clear rulers, paper, scissors, fabric, scissors and iron, which will will be your best friend. The last but not least, a sewing machine. Are you getting excited? Go gather your materials and your tools, and I'll see you in the next video, where we will be taking your measurements. See you then. 3. Measurement Up: Okay, so you have your measuring tape and you're gonna want your notebook and a writing utensil to write down your measurements. We're gonna start with your first measurement. Your waist your waist is gonna be the reference point for all the other measurements, except for one. So pick easiest way to find your natural waist is why singing? I'm a little teapot. No, seriously. When you put your hands on him and you bend from side to side where your body bends, that is your natural waist to try it with me. Okay, so that is where you're gonna want to have your information intake. So let's take it sitting on the one. You're gonna put it around your waist at that spot kind of bend a little and kind of move right into where you need it. When you're taking your measurements, you're gonna want to wear something that is tight fitting or even just your brother. It also could be helpful if you have someone else helping you. But if you don't, that's okay. I'm doing it by myself here, and I'll show you how to do that. When you're taking your waist measurement, you want it to be loose enough that it can move from side to side this way, but tight enough that it will not move up in death. And it's always important to keep your measurement parallel to the floor. So hold that there and then take that measurement and then write it down. Now, if you're not very comfortable or confident in taking your measurements yet, I would suggest you do each measurement three times and record it and then find the one that seems either in the middle or the one that is that you get more than once are. So that was our waist measurement. This next one is a little bit harder to do on your own. But I think you could do it. We're gonna find that natural waist again. We're gonna place your measuring tape starting at your natural waist, okay? And they were gonna put it over your shoulder street and then back again and buying that natural waist. See? Then we're gonna take that measurement and report it again. This is probably at one of those measurements that you want to take more than once to make sure you're getting it right. And if you get frustrated or not, Feel like you're finding your nuptial waste over time. A little trick is to either take elastic or some string and tire around your waist. Uh, about as tight as you did when you were measuring it with a tape measure, and that will keep you in the right spot. And when you move a little bit, it will just really just like right to where it needs to when you're bending and not only get a lot easier as you go around about doing all of these measurements and making sure that it's accurate. Okay, so we just did from our shoulder from our waste to our back waste over our shoulder. We also need to do that again. But we're going to stop in the middle, so get find that natural ways, and we're gonna take from your waist to your shoulder, and then you're gonna record that measurement. Now, would you? Did these measurements as your recording them? You're going to record it as your waist or your natural waist record from waste to waste. That's what you call it, because that's what all of you referring to in future videos on your waist to shoulder as we go alone, I'm going to give you the option and show you how to make your shirt a little bit longer if you wish. I want to make my shirt at the natural waist. But if you want to make yours a little bit longer, all you need to do is find your waist again and the measure down. How long you want your shirt? Now it's important that you do this with friends or in front of me. If you don't have somebody with you, you need to do it in front of a mirror because what's what happens when I try to look down ? Oh, it teamed is your measurement now it is really hard not to look down when you're taking these measurements is a natural instinct. So instead, you're gonna look in here and you're going. Teoh, follow your finger. How long you want. You sure you can have it as long as your heads are long as your pants, however you want it. But then when you recorded your going to mark this as your waist too late, measurement. If you're going to do the same as me and make it enough. Stop at your natural ways. You do not need to take that measurement. All right now, the last measurement we want is your head circumference. And this one is important because if we don't make the hole big enough on your shirt for our honor neckline, we will be able to put a shirt on. So it's important that we know how big that needs to be in order to put our ship. So to do that, you find the widest part of your head like so, and you do it the same way as he did your waist. You make it loose enough that you could move from side to side, but tight enough that it won't move up and down, See, and then record that measurement as your head circumference or head. When doing measurement the goal across the body or like this around the head, which is also across the body, make sure that your tape measure sees parallel to the floor and that's it. You only need those five measurements. If you have any questions, make sure you drop them into the discussion board below so that we can help you keep on track. with your project, you have just successfully taken your own measurements. Are you excited? Well, let's go. Put them to good use in the next video. Let's draft. 4. Let's Draft: come back For this video, you will need your recorded measurements paper for drafting your custom pattern, a pencil, a ruler and a nice clear space toe. Work on. Let's get started. We'll start by laying out our pattern paper. You will need your pattern paper to be at least four or five inches whiter than your waist measurement and a little more than 1.5 times your waist. The waist measurement. Now, if you are going to lengthen your shirt, you'll want to add that amount as well on your length. That way, you'll have enough room toe added on your pattern. If you're pattern paper is not wide enough, you can use Scotch tape or another clear tape to piece together your paper like I did here to make it wide enough for you to use the this project on Lee takes three pattern pieces. The main bodice, the back waste ties on the front waste ties. Let's begin by drafting the body. I usually dio my patterns and pencil, but to help, we'll be able to see better. I'm going to be using a Sharpie. The outside of the bodice is simply a rectangle and all the corners will form a right angle from the top left corner and about three inches down. We're going to draw a straight line. Across this line will be the length of your waist measurement. I have a shorter ruler, so when I do this, I'll draw a line and then I'll make a little mark. So I know where to start it again. And there you have your measurement. Make sure to clearly mark your endpoints specs, starting from the upper left corner again. Square down from the top. Line the length of your waist, the waist measurement or, if you are making your top longer, you'll make this line your waist. The waist measurement plus waste a link, plus waste the length again. This essentially adds the length both to the front and back. Repeat this on the right side of your top line. Remember to keep it square. This is where a clear ruler comes in handy or if you have an actual scare square ruler, you can use that as well. If you have done this right when you draw a line across the bottom, it should also equal your waist measurement. Those who added length to their shirt. Mark your natural waist point by measuring up from the bottom the amount of your waist to link measurement. Do this on both sides, then repeat, starting at the top, measuring down the side seam. You can draw lines across or just make small notch marks. Either way, label this natural waist or and W for short. Before we go too much further, I want to stress the importance of labeling your pattern pieces. Right now, it is easy to remember what is what and which end is which. But tomorrow or two weeks from now, or even two years from now, it is a lot harder, especially if you have added more patterns to your collection. I will show you how I label my patterns. I like to draw nice lines to write on about two inches wide, 1/4 inch apart, but you don't have to do it like this. Do it. However, you feel comfortable as long as you could make sense of it. Later on the first line, I always start with the name of the pattern. This it will call raptured natural waist. Next line is the name of the pattern piece write bodice. The third line. I would write the size over how many of the cut then circle the cut number says This pattern is custom fit to me. I will write self and we're cutting one. Then circle the one. The fourth line is where you would put the date, which comes in handy if you later make the alterations to the pattern. But want to keep the original the last you write your name and take ownership of your handiwork. Okay, so far we have a rectangle. But in order to turn it into a shirt, we need to do a little map but its simple map. So don't get worried. We need to find the center point of our top and bottom lines. We do this by dividing our waist measurement by two. Then take that number a measure over that much on both the top and the bottom. Draw a line connecting these two center points and label that line center. While we're at it, you can label the top line back in the bottom line front. Next, we'll draw the shoulder line. To do this, we will use the waist to shoulder measurement, starting at the front or bottom line. Measure up the amount of your waist to shoulder measurement. Do this on the center line. Now square across from the center line. Going to both site seems label this line shoulder Before we talk about our neckline. Let's add seam allowance. Normally, we would start by adding seam allowance to the sides. But to give us a little room for fluctuation in our size around the waist, we won't need any here. That leaves us with our hymns. Okay, for those of you who are opting for a longer top that falls below the natural waist, you'll add 1.5 inches to the front and back. Seems for us that air stopping at the natural laced. You'll add one inch to the front him and 2.5 inches to the back. Him next drop, besides by connecting your side seems to the new hem line with 90 degree angles. That's it for the outside of your pattern. Let's address the neck hole now. The biggest thing are keeping your neck hold center, and we have made that really easy with our center and shoulder lines. And second is making sure our heads can fit through the hole. This is where head circumference measurement comes in handy. If you're not feeling very confident or are a little nervous about branching out on different necklines, I'll be demonstrating a basic jewel neckline, and we'll show you how to make it. So it fits over your head without having to make a huge neck hole to start. Find the point where then shoulder line crosses the center line. This will be our reference point when drafting the neck hole measure from the cross down three inches and market on the center line. Measure up from the cross two inches a market on the center line. Measure out from the cross three inches to the side and market on the shoulder line. Repeat this going the opposite direction and again mark on the shoulder line. Well, then connect all three marks all of these marks creating an oval egg shape, making sure to not make too much of a point anywhere. If you're unsure about making both sides of the neck even just draw on one side, and then when we cut out the neck, we can do the neck on the fold so that both sides from the center look the same. Now most of our heads will not fit in this hole, so we need to make some room. We do this by creating a placket, which I will show you how to make, or you could make a keyhole. Then you will add a button if you want it to stay close. This'll it will need to be from 3 to 5 inches long and could go in along either the shoulder line or the center line, back or front. To determine how long your slit needs be. Use your head circumference as a guide. Measure around your neck hole, not the sea Malone's. Subtract that number from your head circumference. Divide that number by two, and that is how long your slit needs to be. You can always do a little more just in case and for comfort. If you want to put a plaque it like this, just cut a straight line along. Whichever placement you desire for a keyhole, draw in more of a near very narrow in long teardrop shape. For this design, I will be doing a placket along the shoulder if with the design and look of it. I think I want to put one on each side, marked the end point so that they are very distinguishable and label them as placket placement or keyhole. That is it for the main blast piece on the waist. Tizer. Super simple. You're draw too long rectangles. The first will be the length of your waist waist measurement and two inches white. The second is also the length of your waist, the waist measurement, but only five inches wide. This can be done at the bottom of your pattern piece. Or, if you need to do a separate pattern piece, you can cut that out as well. Remember to label these pattern pieces the same as you did your bodice piece starting at the top with the name of the garment. This being your rap shirt second, you will put the name of the pattern piece, the waste ties. You'll say the size as well as how many to cut, encircle it than the date, and then you will finish it with your name and that's it. These air your three powder pieces. Hopefully, you were able to follow along, but don't worry if it was too fast. That's what the pods and rewind buttons air for. Once you're done drafting your pattern, go ahead and cut it out with your scissors. Remember, use paper scissors and also remember to include your hem and seam allowance. If you're struggling with anything, don't hesitate to pop the question in the discussion board below, and I will do my best to guide you through it. I would love to see some progress pics of your pattern as well as your fabric choices. So go ahead and upload those into the project section so we can follow each other along as we make these awesome custom fit tops. Once you're done here, I can't wait to see you in the next video. Cut it up until then, happy directing. 5. Cut It Up: No. Let's get right to deconstructing your fabric before replace or pattern on two of the fabric to cut it. Let's talk about some characteristics of woven fabric. In general, woven fabric has little to no stretch as three different grain lines that we generally use in sewing woven fabric, like what we're using has to finish touches that are known as the salvage. You will often see the manufactures info here, and these edges will not pray. The first grain line is the threat that moves from salvage to salvage commonly Number two s , the crossways grain. When he purchased fabric, watch how they cut the fabric, it is caught on the crosshairs grain. The threats that run at a right angle to the crossways grain is known as the length rice grain. They run the entire length of the fabric and are parallel to the salvage. More often than not, this is the great you will use to line up your pattern pieces, glasses, bias. These bias is anything that runs across the other grain line out of diagonal. But a true bias crosses your other grain lines at a 45 degree angle and is one of the only ways to get stretch out of a non stretch woven. When a garment is cut on the bias, it hugs the body more and moves with a lot more flow. It is also used in bias, binding as well as courting. If you don't cut your front pattern on the grain, it can skew the finished garment and cause all sorts of problems from fit to the overall look. Most printed fabric is printed ever so slightly off grain, so be careful. Ah, good press with an iron and some stretching can get it back on track. If you're having trouble finding the grain, try pulling a single thread that will help you to see the straightness of the grain. Now that we have those terms in front of our minds, let's use them his best to use a wash fabric that you can iron out. We don't need the pulled our Robert for this project, so open it up to its full wit. Place your pattern on your fabric so that your center line is parallel with your length. Weiss. Grain and salvage. Once you feel like you have it just right, pin it to your fabric careful not to move the fabric too much. You can also use weights like a can of soup or two or some washers from the hardware store . And just make sure you pin all the way around enough for it to be comfortable for you. If you're finished painting your pattern onto your fabric, you can get out your shears. Make sure you're using fabric scissors to get the most efficient cut. You will go all the way around your pattern, keeping close to your pattern piece, but not cutting into your pattern piece. If you cut off your pattern piece, it will actually change the shape of your pattern, so make sure that you're cutting outside of your paper. The easiest way to cut out your neck hole is by folding here patter piece in half and then take your fabric that you just cut in full batten half, making sure to carefully line up your edges. You can then pin it across like you see here. This will make sure that your edges stay together and that your fabric doesn't get skewed, keeping you perfectly on center. When you cut out your neck hole, spread out your piece of its flattened that there are no wrinkles. Then line up the center fold of your pattern piece with the center full of your fabric. Then, using your shares, you can cut out your neck line. If you need Teoh, use pins to secure in place. Then make sure that you cut out your placket or keyhole, depending on which you chose. Here, you see that I had a little hard seeing where the endless. So I just used my tape measure. I measured the length of the placket on the pattern, and then I transferred that to my fabric piece. And there you have your neck hole and you can undo your pins and fold up that piece and you're done with your bodies. Then place your waist ties on the fabric. You can place them parallel to either the cross way four link twice screen. It will make no difference. And if you have enough fabric, waste times were quite nicely. When cut on the bias, pin away these pieces down, then cut them out with fabric, scissors or a rotary cutter. It's that simple. These are great pieces to use long rulers with if you have one such as six inch white cutting quilting ruler here, I was able to use the pattern of my fabric toe. Help me line up the edges. It created a perfect square, the exact amount that I needed. I was able to do this with both the five inch wide waist high as well as the two inch wide waist high. But you might not have this same advantage, but it is only a rectangle and shouldn't be too hard. Now you can pull these pieces up and you can set them with your bodice, and then you are done with your waist size. When you're done cutting, you should have three pieces your body, your waist ties and five inches and your waist size that or two inches. Once every pieces cut out, go in and give them a nice press so that you're ready for the next video. Turn the tie, and if you haven't downloaded them yet, I would love to see a pics of your fabric choices. Go ahead and upload those into your project section. Now I'm ready to get sewing. Are you 6. Turn the Ties: with your waist size folded in half. Right sides together. Iron flat. Let's so using half and see Malone, start sewing on the end from the folded side, remember, two backs itch so until you are about 1/4 inch from your seam allowance. Stop your lower your stitch. Linked to around 1.7. Continue sewing to where your corner will be stopped with your needle down in the fabric. Lift that process. Put them Pivot your fabric about 45 degrees so that it is out of Dagnall. Presser foot downstairs, 2 to 3 stitches. Stop with needle down again. Press your foot up. Turn another 45 degrees with your presser foot down. So about 1/4 inter. So stop bump your stitch link back up to normal around three. Then continue sewing all the way to the other end and repeat the process. Stop at about 1/4 inch from your turn. Lower your sis linked to 1.7 and continues. So 1/4 inch Stop. Needle down. Press for it up. Pivot 45 degrees Presser for down to three stitches. Needle down. Present foot. Ah, pivot another 45 press foot down. So 1/4 inch stop raised its link back to three. Continue sewing. Remembering to back such at the end. Whoa! Did you get that? Now we're going to trim those corners on both sides. You're going to trim it just like this, right? Closely edge without going over the stitch. Repeat the process with the other corner, just like so. And then we're gonna full their piece in half, and then we're going to take the one and it's folded, and we're just gonna cut evenly across just like this. Now you'll have to ties. They're gonna repeat that with the other side with the smaller tie and do the same exact thing with sewing the corners. Now we're gonna turn those ties. You ready for this? To do this by opening up a pocket just like that? Place a pen or chopstick inside the pouch pulled the fabric over the end, forcing the sown edge through the tube. As you see me doing here, it could be a little tricky at first, but once it gets started, it will go a lot smoother. Keep pushing it until the end comes through the other side. Then you just pull it your pen will just fall right out. You can wiggle the corners like I do here to get X Chris Point. Or you can use your pen or chops sick. It's actually easier to do that before you drop your pen out and Tetteh, then repeat it with the other side. If you want to see that one more time, here you go. See how this time I used the pen to poke out the corners before I took it out. It's a little bit faster that way. Repeat that with the small ties. Then I endure times out so that seem falls on the side. Take your small ties and place them at the front one inch from the him on the right side of the fabric. To make this step easier, I folded the shirt lengthwise. You'll repeat this with the second small Thai on the other side. Seam of the front. Remember, we're pinning to the right side of the fabric. Oh, if you were making your shirt longer, you will pin your ties where you marked your natural waste on the side seams of the front with We will repeat that process with the wider ties on your backside. Place your wider ties 1/2 inch from the hem on the right side of the fabric pin in place. Repeat with the other side seam on your back. Remember, we're pinning to the right side of the fabric or, in other words, the outside of your garment. If you're making your shirt longer again, find where you marked your not to waste on the side seams of the back pin your wider ties. There each tie you will so in place with the fourth inch seam allowance back stitch at the beginning and the end. Repeat with the other ties. Once you're finished with these, you are ready for our next video on the bias. See you then. 7. On the Bias: in the last video, we talked a little bit about what it means to cut fabric on the bias. When he cuts African angle, particularly a 45 degree angle, it becomes more stretchy and pliable. This is the reason why it's an excellent choice for finishing curved edges. Such is what we will have on our necklines. There are three basic ways to finish an edge. Using by estate. I'll be doubling each of these. Then I will show you how to apply them to your rap shirt on the side teams as well as the neckline. You can choose just one of these to use, or you can choose a combination on different Seems. I will also be showing you how to apply the bias tape to create a placket or a keyhole for your neckline. Let's head over to the sewing machine and keep those irons on stand by because we'll be using that to take out your single full half inch bias tape. The first place we will be using it is on the side seem to make a French him to measure it out, start with about an inch overhang and then walk it down the side seam, leaving an extra inch on the other end as well. Repeat for the other side seemed to pre press bias tape like what we're using will have its two edges pressed into the center. One side will have a slightly narrower full than the other. This edge will line up with the edge of your body's fabric. Now take the end of your bias, leaving about inch overhang and pressed the edge of the bias up to the edge of your scene. Now we so keep the edge of the garment lined up with the edge of the bias the whole time, so them right side together keeping your stitch right inside the fold line on your bias tape. Remember the back stitch. Don't feel like you need to rush. It's important to go slow, making sure you keep the edges even and your stitch in the fold. There's no need to pin, but if it helps you feel more comfortable, go ahead. Try not to stretch the bias as you so underpin. As long as you keep those edges together, it will naturally stay with the curves or the straight line with our side seam. Once you get to the end, remember to back stitch. And that's the end of the first step of a French bias scene. Press the binding and seam allowance upward away from the garment. Be careful when you're ironing to not iron out the other full of your bias, but just gently press it upward like so all along your side seam. Now, remember how we left an inch on each end? We're gonna fold that under at this time Just hold it right under so that it lines up with the rest your bias and then you can go ahead. Impress that to keep that fold nice and flat and out of the way. You're going to go ahead and repeat that on the other end as well. So both ends will have that extra folded under and pressed in place to get ready for the next step. Now that we've had it nice and press, you're gonna go ahead and fold that bias tape all the way under to the wrong side of the fabric. This way, the biased will not be seen from the right side of the fabric. So go ahead and do that now. At the machine. We're going toe edge stitch along the inside edge of the bias state. Be careful toe always so on the bias tape while still staying very close to the edge. Go ahead and take your time here. Remember the back stitch at the beginning as well as at the end. Repeat. On the other side. Seam lovely, though, seems look nice and finished on the outside and clean on the inside. Now repeat on the other side. Stitch right in the crease, lining up your edges together. Then you'll iron up. Here's it seems so that your biases nice and meat and your seam allowances out of the way, and then you're going to go ahead and fold that all the way over to the underside and that edge stitches. Ride along the bias tape to make a nice, clean finish. Just like before. Remember to back stitch at the beginning and end. Doesn't that just look lovely? Moving right along Next, we're gonna make some loops for a placket and keyholes for our buttons or whatever closure you'd like to use. Start by taking a piece of your bias tape about 2.5 to 3 inches long. Fold it in half so that the folded edges are on the inside. And then we're just gonna so that opening closed right along the edge of your bias tape. He will then repeat that for how many ever tabs or loops you will need for your closure. I'm going to be doing four because I'm doing to plaque. It's one on each side of my neck, so repeat that four times. Now let's place our loops start by flattening out your neck line. Then take one of your loops. You're going to roll it in your hand like so you're gonna make that same sides are facing out. See how ignoring it. It's a little hard to explain. Hopefully, the picture will show you. Then you're gonna take those ends and they will sit right next to each other, where you ever you want to place them on your shirt, place them facing away from your seem. That way. When we add the bias, it will flip it so that it turns towards where you want the button to be placed. It's best if the dip of the loop or the not flat side is facing upward like So then put a pin in it to secure it in place. Now you're going to place the next one. Do the exact same way. Please sell about an inch to an inch and 1/2 apart than pen in place. Repeat, if you have more than one placket like Ideo, then you'll get to your sewing machine and you're just gonna attack men place you come back , sit a couple times if you want to, but it's not necessary or just basically holding them until we put the bias which will actually secure them in their spot pockets are started the same way that you started your previous bias tape. Gonna go ahead online up those edges, just like you did before and stitch inside the crease. Now, when you get to where your fabric splits and goes back the other way, you're going to do as you see me doing, keeping your needle into the fabric. You're gonna kind of shift the fabric around it, needle it so that the Bunches go away from where the needle is. You're gonna try to pull that other edge so it's almost a Ziff. It iss straight down from your other edge as if it wasn't cut back up the other way at all . See how I'm doing that? That makes sense. Now, if you have to adjust at all by lifting up your presser foot, just make sure that needle stays down and it should leave everything exactly the way that needs to To start sewing again. Feel free to adjust is you need to like I did keep that going in the way that you need, And then you can go ahead and so straight down, going right over the top of your loops until you get to the end again. Remember, just try to keep those puckers away from the edge so that you're not selling them in to your garment, but they're staying outside the edge, and then you go ahead. So the end and the back stitch again at this stage, your plaque. It should look like this with the seam allowance on the inside and the loops on the outside to reduce some bulk, trim down your loops inside of the seam allowance. This time, instead of folding your bias all the way under, you're just going to fold it in half having half on the outside in half on the inside, making sure when he folded over to cover your previous stitch, See, half on one side, half on the other. When you pin it, make sure that you pin right next to your seam allowance. But going the rule, the back of the biased teeth continue pending all along your placket doing that same exact fold when you pin, make sure you're the bottom of the pin is facing you to make it easier to pull out as you. So now, when you so you're going to so right next to the biased eight. But not on the bias tape. This is called stitching in the ditch. Since we pinned the back of the bias tape, it should be catching it on the underside. This can be a little difficult at first, but it makes for a very nice clean finish now, full of your placket in half with your right sites together. So we're looking at the inside of the garment line up those edges and then you're gonna stitch a diagonal across your bias tape. This will help keep the shape of your plaque it so that it lays properly on top of each other. There you go. See how it lays and you don't see the bias tape at all. And your loops are now facing towards the front of your garment, where we will put your buttons or whatever closure you choose to add to your loops. See how we did this year. We're now going to repeat all those same steps on the other side. If you did more than one placket like me, if you didn't, then you're good. If you did a keyhole, you'll do the similar as you did the neckline. So let's do the neck. Measure out your bias tapes to make sure that you have enough. Make sure you have a little extra on each end, just in case. Now we're going to start sewing just like we did before. Except instead of putting it on the right side of the garment, we're now going to attach it, lining up your edge with the wrong side of the garment and continue to stitch right inside the fold all the way along the neckline. So again, we're gonna fold in that extra amount and then fold over the top, just as we did with the last type. We're going to full just half of the bias tape over and then pin. Now the fold will be going over into the front or the right side of the fabric and covering that seam allowance, pin it into place just like we did before. But this time, instead of stitching in the ditch, we're going to top Stitch. I feel like this way is a lot easier for beginners, and you can more easily make sure you catch the biased tape because you're not needing to catch it on the others. Underside, you're just top stitching now go all the way around the neck line doing this stitch, and then you can repeat it on the other neck, just like we did on this one. If you have to. Plaque, it's like me where your neck is split in half. Otherwise, you just continue all the way around. And when you get to the end, make sure that you're folding in that extra. Now to do that keyhole, you'll do the same exact thing. It's just like a curve neckline except, ah, lot smaller in a lot sharper curve, but you're biased. Tape was meant for this. It will curve nicely around that. Just if you need to use a little more pins to secure it in place and that's it for your bias tape. Let's get to the next hymns until then. 8. Let's Finish This: Here we go. Let's finish this with our him. Let's start with the front. Him. You're going to full up half inch from the bottom and press that press it all the way across to get it nice and flat. Use steam if you need to. Now we're gonna press it up another half inch and again press it all the way across. Now for your backside, we're going to start with again, pressing it up 1/2 inch. After you pressed it all the way across. You're going to press it up one inch. This will full your waist ties in half. If you chose to make your shirt longer, you fold both hymns 1/2 inch, then a whole inch up and press. Now let's so it you're just going Teoh. So it right along the edge of that fold. It's easy peasy. Straight stretch all the way through, remembering to backs it at the beginning and the end. Now let's go to the front. Doesn't that look nice repeated again? It's a nice, easy straight stretch back sitting at the beginning and sewing right along that fold and voila! There you go. All we have left is to attach, but or Weber? Other closure. You want to use your lips for me? I choose to make these cute little bulls for my buttons. Now get ready to strut your stuff. 9. Strut Your Stuff: No, you made it. You've learned to take your own measurements. You've self drafted a custom pattern based off of personal measurements. You have learned to use bias tape in a variety of ways, such as clean seem finishes along your side seems as well as your neckline. You now know how to sew a placket as well as button loops and bows for buttons. You properly finished your rapture with a tidy him and while A now that you're done, share pics of your finished shirt in the project section below until next time.