Scalloped Ribbon Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare
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11 Lessons (1h 2m)
    • 1. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings

    • 2. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - materials

    • 3. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - equipment

    • 4. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - soldering equipment

    • 5. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - soldering the jumprings

    • 6. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - rolling mill

    • 7. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - finishing the stud earrings

    • 8. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - hoop earrings: annealing

    • 9. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - hoop earrings: shaping

    • 10. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - hoop earrings: earwires

    • 11. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - final thoughts


About This Class

Welcome to the Scalloped Ribbon Earrings class! This is a two-for-one class as we're going to use the same techniques to change simple jump rings into lengths of silver that remind me of fancy ribbons and then create two very different pairs of earrings - one simple pair of studs and a fancier pair of hoop earrings.

The secret ingredient in this class is a rolling mill, one of my favourite pieces of equipment in my workshop. I love thinking of new ways to use it, new designs it can help me to create! This is also a great class to help you practice your soldering skills.


This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me. In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is a beginner class as although the soldering needs to be set up carefully, once you have set it up it is not too fiddly to do as the soldering bricks support the silver nicely.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers most of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #37 and #38 in the #52earrings challenge.







1. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings: Yes, I'm a jewelry designer. K. I welcome to Scout Ribbon in this house. We're going to be taking some of the surplus jewelry findings, jump rings and turning them into two beautiful hearing designs, going to teach you how to make a pair of lovely support stud earrings and also a fancy Cleary's. Does these hearings used the same basic technique says no need to choose between them. This class will encourage you to work on your soldering skills. Although the soldering isn't difficult, it does take a little bit of time to set up. So we're teaching the importance off, taking your time to set things up properly so that they hopefully work first time. Once something is done, the beautiful long skull shapes it reminds your fancy ribbons. Before this class is part of the change, I set myself 2017 design and film tutorials for 52 Different have a help for the hash. Type 52 hearings are Instagram and Facebook to see some behind the scenes photos. So if you're ready to get started, let's have a look at the materials and equipment event to make 2. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - materials: the's materials that you're going to need to make both the stud earrings on the hoop earrings the main past the hearing design is actually made off jump rings. The jump brings that you can see here have got an inside diameter off four millimeters on there, being made out of 1.3 millimeter stunning silver around wire. That's about a 16 gauge of wire, so it's quite a heavy gauge to use for a relatively small jump ring. But that's what we need for this project. We need quite a heavy gauge of metal so that when we send the soldiers jump rings through the rolling will flatten them out. The thing s gauge of wires I probably use this project is about 1.2 millimeter round wire. You can, obviously, by jump rings, pre mate, but I made thes, and I will link in the class description to some classes. I've got to take you through the process of how to make your own jump rings. If you want to make your own jump rings, then remember that the thicker the wire is on, the smaller the jump when you are making the more difficult it is to wrap the wire into a coil so far, is going any sick out than 1.3 millimeters say, maybe up to 1.5, that I think about going up even just 0.5 of a millimeter for the inside diameter so that it's easier to wrap the wire around? I'm going to be finishing stud earrings, of course, with a pair off stud posts, so I'm going to soldier on the back on. I've got a pair of silver butterflies to use on those as well, told him securely in place in your ears. I'm going to use no 0.82 millimeter stunning silver around wire to make the ear wise for the second pair of earrings. 3. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - equipment: the's hunters that we're going to use to make the scallops ribbon earrings, the first tools that I'm going to use our two pairs off flat nose appliance. So I'm going to use those to make sure that jump prints closed before soldering them together. And then, after soldering, I'm going to use one of the biggest pieces of equipment in my workshop. I'm going to use my rolling mill. I'm going to use that to give the silver Z flattened and lengthened oval shape that reminds me off scalloped ribbons. The rest of the tools that you can see here will just be used on one pair of earrings on the longer hoop earings rather studs. I'm going to shape the hoops with stepped Mandel pliers and then use the rest of tools to help me form the air wires. I'll use the ruler on the wire cutters to help me cut off the rings of white. I'm going to need for the ear wires. I'll use the step. Mandel pliers nine on your pliers, a pair of the flat note suppliers on a round nose pliers to help me shape the ear wives for the hoops. I'm going to use the Sharpie to help me work out where to finish the ear wires, and you'll see what I mean about that when we get to that state of the class and then I'll add a little bit of strength to the ear wires whilst hammering them. I'm going to come of them with my plan ish ing hammer andare support the work on the bench block with a leather cushion underneath to support everything and keep the noise down a little bit. And then the very last thing that I need to do is to file the end of the year wise, so nice and comfortable to go through the holes in your ears. As I mentioned, this is a solving project. So it's also have a look at these soldiering equipments that we're going to need to complete the project. 4. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap. On top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi the paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work, so he was also available in a paste form, its ground up soldier that's already mixed with a flux, so you don't need a separate flux. In fact, if you were toe adds the yellow Fluxus, I showed you it would stop this soldier pace from working properly. It's most commonly available in syringes with small tips that she can see here. You can also buy it in tubs and pots, just like with the traditional sticks or strips of soldier, so the pace is available in three different melting temperatures. Easy, medium and hard. I've just got easy and medium here. The easy is the one that's 268 degrees sent rate for amounting temperature. The medium is 732. Recent weight. As you can tell, the easy solder paste, is a favorite newer than the medium soldier paste. When you have a new syringe, it's best to pull back on the plunger after you finished using it. Otherwise, the soldier pace is going to continue to snake out of the tip a little bit, and you don't want to waste it because this is actually the most expensive way of buying soldier. I like to use the solder paste on projects like chains on door, so hollow beads sometimes might use it on sucking rings if I'm in a bit of a hurry, because one of the advantages sort of place is that the soldier usually stays exactly where you want it to be. Unlike the sort of Italians that can jump off as you start to heat the metal up, small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers, not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and last, but definitely not least are her safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully 5. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - soldering the jumprings: wait for the jump rings over to the soldier in station because the first stage in making these earrings after, of course, the jump prince themselves are made is to solve everything together. However, I just need to make sure that the jump rings are close properly. These two a very closed up and lined up, ready for soldering. These two they can see is I moved the jumping around, but that jump ring, it's still open. If you have a look at the classist have linked to self description, you'll see that I start off my jump rings as a coil of wire. Andi. So each ring is one wrap around the coils, so they've actually got a bit of a step there and they don't close properly. So I'm going to use to pass off flat nose pliers to do this on and trying to hold everything so that it's firmly held and you can still see it. So I've got they pleasure or whether they were the If the jumping is going to be close up a 12 o'clock join and I've got a pair applies at three o'clock Andi nine oclock. So either side I was talking to is Twist Rick. One. Twist the ends past each other a little bit. Onda pushing a bit of the same time. So shake again. Oh, this one twist and at the same time pushing on and see that's given a nice, tight fitting closed jump ring. The next thing I need to do is lying this pair up in the same way out of line. This pair, Andi, these of Stutts, So I want two pairs of two earrings to jump rings. Rather on. Trying to do is designed them up so that the joints are touching. It's worth taking time to do this properly. Does this weigh warps completely made? That lifts a joint with the joint gone Very good. So it's worth taking time to do this, because if you lie the joints up properly, then you're going to be able to close jump rings on dso older the to jump brings together. At the same time, I'm using a little bit of medium solder paste to so do these using solder paste because it will help to hold them together as I'm heat everything up. Oops, so I want just manage to move that has that moving back together together again. That's better. I'm using medium soldier because that leaves me free to use Easy soldiers started a start fitting on the back. So now I've replied with solder I'm going to do is you see small blow torch to heat up around. Each hearing, in turn, has start by heating up around it at the heat turned the silver quite so. These I normally dough and then brush across. I see a little bit of a burning on the soldier itself. That's normal. That's the binder in the pace burning off. I see so D so with certainty. River reddish change such a brush cross. Okay, so you should have seen the liquid right silver there, soldier flowing in C She's now one pace Do the same to this once and move that one after way. So as soon as the Silver Star to take on with a reddish tinge that showed me everything was starting to get the right temperature. So I started to brush across the to jump rings to allow the soldier to melt across the to to join them together. On day two soldiers, the jump cream closed again. Gonna really Change started ship rush across. Okay, so this the start of my stud earrings. So figure of eight with a rounded wire on, they are going to end up as nice flattened shapes. So those need to go in the quench pot andan the pickle. Unless they're doing that, I'm going to show you setting up for the hoop earrings I started to set up the jump brings the soldier together for the hoop earrings. Now, and as you can see, I'm using a ruler to help me line everything up because, although with to jump rings, it's pretty easy to get them lined up straight next to each other with five with. Hey, thing more than two. It's such a lot more difficult, and you end up getting a bit of a wheel in the line. This way, I've got something to push the jump rings up against. So I'm going to continue doing that now. Andi, What I'm also doing is lining up joins. So where the jump rings is still open, twisting that one round. There we go. So the joins are at the top so that they are sitting next to the bottom of the jumping above them so that when I sold the jump brings together again, I will. Soldier, the jump rings closed this one. This last one, I'm putting its join pointing down towards the other ones because if I had that join up at the top, it wouldn't be sold it closed. I might be hard to see here that I've already applied four bits of the medium soda pace. So I'm going to do the same to the joints here. - Group someone's come away once moved as well a little bit, so I can just push them back up against the ruler right now. I need to move this ruler out of the way for two reasons. Well, though, is metal Andi? It wouldn't come to a great deal of harm. It would burn the painted numbers, engages off the ruler and also because it's touching silver. It would be a heat sink. It would draw heat away from the silver and make it more difficult for the silver to get up to soldering temperature. So I'm going to very, very carefully. I've got my I am fingers either side just hooking under nace Okay, very carefully lifting it out of the way. So now with it remains for me to do is heat up around each one. In turn, The same might like it for the stud earrings. Hate up around and then silver takes on the register. Change to brush across the silver. Okay, that's just a finder burning off. - Yes , the 1st 1 done, I hope, actually, city just in case you should move every anything back into line, but it will be hated itself. So second airing. - So then, although these don't look particularly pretty at the moment, they are safely soldered together. What, No one. Still such the bric a little better Let it cool down on. Then it will come off on its own accord. By the way, that sometimes happens when there's a bit of excess flux on here. Andi, the flux heats up in six. The silver a little bit, but that will come off as silver cools down. So they now need to go into the quench pot, the pick apart to clean up, and then I'll be ready to shape some using the rolling mill 6. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - rolling mill: I've actually already soldier together on sent for the rolling Mill, the start of another pair of studs because I wanted to show you the look that we're aiming for. As you can see, these have links, since they were exact same type of jump prints. Start with they've lengthened, and also they have a wider look to the metal as well. Because the metal has been flattened is no longer nice round why it's being flattened out. It's got much wider look. So that's where aiming for on what I'm going to do now is show you how to get it. So this is a close up shot of my lovely Durst and Rolling Mel. It's a really lovely quality one, but what we asked for this project any rolling mill from the most affordable value model actually really, really nice duster model will do the job for this project really nicely. There's always going to be doing is rolling through, lengthening and flattening some metal Well rolling mills have a wheel, but the chop that's just statue of you. Just up up here, Andi. As I turned the wheel that moves, the chopper rolled out, some turning to the moment and you might be able to see the top roller is moving down, so the gap in between here is getting smaller, so that would send the metal through tighter. Have more pressure when the rowers are closer together and as a handle is a casing for that , the years and the handle. As I turn this handle the road is move again. I just want to see those rollers and moving there. So what I'm going to do is take each set of jump rings in, turn on, send thumb through the rolling mill. Now I'm actually going to be working with the longest sets initially because the bigger going to be easier for you to see a couple of things to note. I need to make sure the time, sending them through that so that the jump rings are perpendicular to the rollers are sticking out the rollers at right angles. That way, I'm going to make sure that it's a nice even spreading along that line. Not going to end up with a curve or with misshapen jump rings are going to end up with the nice overalls that I created on the part made past stud earrings here. Andi also I want to send him through. I was tightening it up a little bit. It's a time I don't want to put too much pressure on straightaway because I want to take my time and have a look at what I'm creating. Have a look at what I'm ending up with on Stop when I'm happy with how they look. Quite often. Rolling wheels are used for putting a texture on a piece of metal. See might send piece of metal sheet through the rollers with something that's what texture on it. Even something like a piece of paper can be in Boston really nicely into the silver. Andi, if you're doing something like that, then you need to do a bit of experimentation but playing first with the wits of the rollers , with how far the rollers are apart to make sure that when you send it through, you're sending it through tight enough to get a really good impression. But no snot, but not so tight that you could risk tearing the materially that is sending through and running. It's a takes, a little bit of experimentation to find the right setting However, with something like this, there's no texture involved. I'm just flattening and shaping so I can send it through on a thickness designed, very happy with that is having a good grip on here on the silver on the entitlement for this time. So I'm going to do first. Want to get set up? I'm going to hold those jump rings in place in between the rollers and just tighten to the point where I can't move them back out again. I was engaged on my wheel. So isn't making a note of where the arrow on my gauges pointing? If you haven't got a gauge on your well, they just put a mark of their or just be aware that you are, too, maybe turning the wheel a court return to loosen them and then tightened back down to that . So that is the point at which I'm going to start where I could three start to force the jumping through. But it's not going to go through easily, so that's when you start said. I'm making sure that the jump rings are perpendicular for the with the rollers. Well, I'm going to send Nice three now. That's How about, you know, impacted Tool, but has given me a starting point, so just tightened the rolls up a little bit. I'm gonna send frickin get not much. So good Tyson off a little bit more. I can feel now that it is a lot tighter as I pull that handle. It's a bit more of an effort to send it through. And if I show you the two, this one's actually catching like a little bit differently. This is a once I sent through and they start to be flattened out a little bit. I'm going do exactly same to this one. Whatever I do to one, I'm going to do to its pair to make sure that they end up looking exactly saying so again, making sure that is perpendicular and send it through So they're tighten them up. Just 1/4 turn of the wheel. Send it sir again again, since flatter. It's not really getting any longer than not telling travels yet, but they are getting flatter. He's not saying toe ovals visibly to To my I said, it's passed through, so I'm going to go through that. I'm going to keep tightening them up just a little bit sending on through perpendicular to the rollers you can see. Actually, that last turn that's made a bit more of a difference no longer. They're starting to comfortable over the shape they're flattening out. Exactly. Seem to this one. Signed up with a much pair Doing it a little bit of time like this means that you got more control over your work. Oh, yes, I like. Look at that. And it went longer again. It's about comparing it, though to the one that I did as a zone pull. These were a little bit longer. So send us food again. Tighten it up. Maybe one last time. Send it through again. I'm happy with that. If I said that Su shade quite surprising, how? Just tighten it up a little bit and said he threw one more time. The difference it makes. So that is the first pair of earrings flattened out looking, I think, really a lovely, lovely shape. So I had to do the same to these two. I'm making a note on the gate at the top here at where I have finished. I could put pen mark on my gate every once I wanted to, you could maybe market with the masking tape. You can actually put a bit of masking tape on the handle the wheel itself. And you know that when that piece masking tape is facing directly towards you, that is where you want to finish. So opening up again, send through ribs. I spent more filling with these. How sweet of film. Up a little bit now Andi go through sending the shorts studs through. Don't they look completely different? It is amazing what a rolling Milken do. So those are two of the jump rings that we started with. Remember, they've got an inside diameter of four millimeters or they're made out to 1.3 millimeter sterling silver around wire on this subsumes what we've ended up with. According to my dish to Canopus, they are a tiny fraction under nor 0.7 millimeters thick now, so I've nearly hauled their sickness. I think it's like a really, really attractive shape. The next thing I need to do is to finish off the earrings, so I need to sell to stud fittings onto the back of the stud earrings. Andi, I need to shape the hoops and form wise for those as well 7. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - finishing the stud earrings: e. I thought my double ovals for the stud earrings over to the sergeant station again, setting off the solving brick I've marked where I want the study for seems to go, I found that's quite used to just to give me a guide, something to aim for its march on with a Sharpie. And don't worry, the Sharpie marks will burn off before I get soldering temperature so that ink won't interfere with the soldering process. Because, of course, you do need clean metal the soldering process. Now I use medium solder paste to solder the to pass off jump brings together. So I'm going to use easy sort of pace circuit of a little bit on the end off a start fitting hold. Inverse action tweezers here, Going use easy soldier paste to social in place. There is that we do this this one first, so I'm gonna heat up around the hearing first. Just put a little bit of heat into their cause. That's although it is a small piece of silver. It's still bigger than my study. Fitting is here. Just check up everything lined up. I'm happy with it. Reason putting heat in here first is, it helps reduce the chance off me. Melting stuff fitting. That's the 1st 1 done. But listen the French much and catch the second stuffer Siegen held in reverse action. Tweezers put a little bit of soldier paste on it. But that would check Forbes, which wasn't because idea just double check. I've got everything lined up. Okay, so there's the second hearing so that would join its pair in the quench pot. Put them both in the pick apart to clean up, and then all I will need to do with those is polished. Um, Andi put their butterflies on the back. So those are basically finished My quick pair of earrings to make what I need to do. Now they show you how to finish off the hoop earings. 8. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - hoop earrings: annealing: although I'm not going to do any more soldering toothy long pairs of jump prince I'm going to turn to the hoop earrings. I still bought them over to the soldering station because I need to kneel them. And that's because sending them through the rolling mill to get this lovely long oval shape Scout pattern tooth Um, that reminds with Scotch ribbons. All of that has work hard in the silver. Think about the amount of pressure that the rolling mill must put on silver to be able to flatten it out and shape it in the way that it has. I could probably give the silver a nice U shape, but I don't want to risk it without a kneeling, because each of thes joins here because there are a now. Our part of the design are a weak point, their point at which the silver wants to fold rather bend nicely. And if the silver is work hardened, they are more likely to fold and maybe even get a little bit of a crack in them. So I know that by kneeling them, I'm going to avoid such problem, so it's worth taking the time to do it. I've put a couple of Sharpie marks on each one because I don't want to risk overheating thes designs. They are very small. They got four soldier joins in them, each that's not so joins or something so small, and I don't want to risk overheating it. So I'm going to use a Sharpie Marks as a guide. A. Still, when I've reached a needing temperature when they've burnt off, that will be enough heat just saying we want to time keeping the play nice and study that one stung 2nd 1 stomach well, spend a bit more oxidation, one part foot open sometimes. So going to quench these now. Andi, you hear the hiss as I quench them, they're going to put them in the pickle pot to clean up that one. Don't get them after the vehicle parts is just out of you here. This is true. There's a hoops. So although there's not much optimization on them, they do need to go in a pickle pot to be cleaned up on. Once I've done that, should I give them a good rents and a dry I will carry on shaping them into the hoop earings 9. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - hoop earrings: shaping: the Knights of Silver that become the hoop earrings have now been taken out of pickle. As you can see, I've given them a rinse on, giving them a good dry as well because you don't want wet metal nous. You're still tools. It wouldn't do the steel any good tool lets job is to shape of Silver into long you shapes rather than going for a more traditional, almost such a have hoops. I'm going to go for a very long pair with steep sides to the U shape. I'm going to be using the such mental pliers. To do that, I'm going to use the biggest section on those Mandel's Andhra member, that this part has got some padding on it. So it's going to protect the silver from the steel at the back here, but still give a nice firm surface to hold everything. So I'm going to do is hoat the silver so that that middle jump ring is in the middle underneath this model here. So that's going to be at the bottom. And also that silver is if I hold it straighter for you like that. Think that the I went back out of the way the silver is perpendicular to the pliers on both of those things are going to help me get the most even shape possible. So I'm going to do you embrace the silver up against my fingers. Some like that. Just push that gently up against the Mandrell on. Take it to the point where you can see safe. I mean, my thumb of the way it's It's sticking straight up now, rather than just push that side. Help could do that. But I'm going to turn it around, hoat everything in place again. So it's time to make sure it's lined up and do the same action from this site. That way, both sides of silver are going to have the same type of pressure the same amount of pressure put on them because I noticed if I would just went like that, that would be different amount of pressure than here, and I might not end up with a symmetrical shape. So nice even U shape, which is what I would prefer so. But it's the same with this side. When did top make sure they go up like so on? Dutch is a nice even you shouldn't nicely shaped at the bottom, so you can see that bottom. Why, If I may put a darker surface behind it, you can see better. So that bottom is nicely curved. I'm really happy that shape. So the challenge is going to get that ship to match. Let's see if I can do it again. So it was checking, by the way, is that one side of your design that just looks a little bit neater than the other? Maybe, um must be scratched on one side. He hadn't noticed that you could get away with Emery paper, but it was only a minor scratch. Well, that Emery paper could damage the very crisp edges. So it's on your really, really minor scratch that you might notice the front No announced, probably would. But you might notice that you might want time to tell the back. Obviously, it's a deeper scratch that meant that you were weren't as careful with your work. You could be most you're working on. You would have to get the emery paper out again, just double checking that it is in place. Andi, bend up. Make sure that that one it's sticking nice. Not right turn around. Make it sure that she's lined up again and that went up can just make sure I was pushing in . We get too nice even you shapes that are now ready for the next stage, which is making the Iwas. 10. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - hoop earrings: earwires: The last thing that I need to do to finish off the hoop earings is to make the ear wise. I've cut to 5.5 centimeter links of no 0.8 millimeter or 20 games, stunning silver wire. It's probably a little bit too long to make the ear wise, but I would much rather start off with a longer piece and then trim it down if I needed to rather inform the air wise and realized that I really would have preferred that you want to be that little bit longer. The first dance I need to do is turn a I loop were simple, Rupert. One end of each piece of wire on that loop is then going to attach to one side of each hearing. If you're not already familiar with how to turn, I'll Oops, I do download the step by step photo tutorial that's like attached to the class materials. Some simply shows out of the way for the moments we can focus. Just own these vets, so don't want the lips be too big coughs. You want them to be able to fit around the sexual Why here? But I don't want to be too big. Think about 1/3 of the way down. I would do if I find out some long who I have to do is unbending. Um, use some nine on your places. Pull it nice and smooth again on don't start again while it's quite forgiving. So I'm holding the wire about Serves the way down the pliers. Remember that Closely. Go to the handle. The bigger the loop you enter form. But I got my finger in some close to suppliers. But have them back here. I'm not going to support the wire here. Move about all over the place. Social good news. Just turn applies away from me Back in turn again Until that loop that cut end Rather is faces up against the tail. So it's nice and flush. However I want that looked to be sitting on top of the peace Why not to one side. So to do that, I'm going to put the prize down The chip down there, just the tip of the pliers. Andi, pull back. I'm not just made them sit nicely. So it is like the same. Where's this one? The same. Just since down the pliers twist applies round some, putting the wife through my fingers some until that cottages lined up in Eastleigh meeting up against the longer tail pliers tipped the pliers back in sight. That Luke, but she holding onto the tail. But just inside the loop isn't holding onto this longer part. Just pulling that back again and again. The photo tutorials that myself, Right a tour will help you get really close up. Look of that. So that's the start. What I now want to do is put a U shape into each of those wires, Andi, because I've really been using the step Mandel pliers. I'm going to use them again on and I'm going to be using still, the largest part Andi I'm going to do is Holt the wire in, like, position there. So that's the loop is that she pushes fallen down as I can make it. So just only just sticking up out of those pliers and all I'm going to do is just benj the wire around with my fingers some. Well, I've got a nice you shape. I'm going to start to do the same with this one. By the way, I'm making sure that the size of a little opens is facing into the U shake. Such a sinking looks. Britain nature. So at the moment I've got this side of the loops that opens sicking up towards May. It's on this side so that, as I bend applies around, opening part is on the inside. Now. They should bay hopefully the same size because I formed the same tool holding them in the same way. But it is worth checking. Yes, they are this one. So I think it's a second when I fall doesn't eat bending round a little bit further, the tail back bending round a bit further. So obviously, I put everything back in the just push that talented more. There we go. That's better. There were nice match. So what I need to do now is attached, um, onto the hoops. I need to do that before I finish off the edge is because I want to work out where to trim off the tales of the ear wise. I can't do that until everything's in place. So going to use a pack off flat nose pliers just to lift up at that loop on and to her Kong , those ear wise said who call me the Hoops on. And I have made, like, three loops the right size. So it's the start. One hearing on the set. Look more like a hearing now. Same with the other one. Just open up that who proof? Orbits. So getting in my loop on my hoop muffled up. I usually don't close it back down again. Okay, Now futures up the way she not distracted by them. Well, we need a wire cutters on the flat nose pliers. You can see the tip of it. And the Sharpie? I did mention right. It start. The class is going to be using a Sharpie to help me work out where to trim off the ear wise . Does he take one at a time, Andi? So going to do? He's hoat the hearing, trying to hold it so that you can see what I'm doing. But I'm holding security, which is not the easiest thing. Well, it's so small, right? What I'm doing is holding it so that the air watch is in the position that I wanted to be in while see hearing is being worn on my finger thumb. Here are holding the ear wire up against the middle of the back. Both the hoop find something to do. He's just put and no oops, just on the inside. I poking the Sharpie through the loop here through the opening. In that fact jump fring under milking across, the while just going to make that mark a little bit darker. Here we go, See, conceived a bit more clearly ongoing fantasies that one as a guide for marking the second hearing. So I hold everything so she's lined up so the tops of those hopes are lined up. If you're set on done, one of things wants Pete moving about. I also try to keep it in view of the camera. It's trying that way around. Not gonna do it sweet around instead. So getting those he waas lined up, going to put the second line there right? So that might just about be hard to see. The darker market is very small, showing through the middle of that jump ring. That is where I want the Y to be bent because that's when to form the hook. Put it back on that before it dries out. Cash is going to form the hook that's going to hold the you are in place. So I'm going to do now because get the flat, no supplies hold'em against that mark and turn the wire. But my tangles now at the moment that is far too home. But you can see that it's going to hold that's going to start forming the hook. Same with this one. Pliers up against that mark breaks up with my friend with some a new supplies to return it . That's a right angle, so that's starting to look a little bit more finished. I just can't use the why. Cause is now to trim off the ear wires so time leaving no more than three millimeters of that little hook there. I'm going to do the same with second run again. Using the 1st 1 is a guide. If I can get to lined up nicely, that's better. Then just try and see where that's long enough to hold everything in place, just going to pull that you shape open a little bit. That's better. By enlarging that, you shape to settle bits. You see what I did? It's just hold. Besides the U with my fingers and just pull ever so slightly. And that's wide in the shape of it means that if he's held intention a bit more so, that's going to do two more things to that. I'm going to hammer the front. I'm going to smooth off. It's about I bought the camera in for slightly closer view so he can see that it is just the front section of the ear waas that I went to hammer that part. Just hammering that section will give a great your strength to these ear wise and make them come are not spring here so that this section here it was spring back and hold the hoop in place nicely. Hope it, hold it close properly. So I'm going to hold the Hope section of the hearing off the steel block so that doesn't get damage. Just use the Mandrell, so just use the flashing, however, rather not the Mandel to hammer that front section 1st 1 Just six hammer blows. That's all it's taken to do that Number two. Okay, how is it? Nicely, The very last thing is just filing those end stairs. That's why I eat it, too. Undo the hoops to do that, so I don't risk scratching this section here. I'm going to be using a flat needle file to do that. The reason, by the way I hammered before doing the firing, is that giving the ear wise that little bit of extra strength before I do this section means I'm far, far less likely to pull everything out of shape. Last time I'm filing, it's always use your fingers as much as your eyes to just double check that everything is nice and smooth. One airing again. Unhook this one so I can file without doing damage to the main cost. The hearing. That's all it takes to to to finish off, so that when that she needs, I think my heart just a little bit more. That's better. They were just the here was a little bit. If you need to sow those hoops now, need to join the study rings in the tumble polisher on. I will show them to you when everything's lovely, shiny 11. Scalloped Ribbon Earrings - final thoughts: I hope this class is giving some further insight into how versatile are rolling. Mill is on what a great piece of equipment it is to have in your workshop. Our only Mel doesn't have to just be used for thinning out sheet metal or for putting a texture into metal. It can also be used for completely changing a look or something, just a simple as jumping and creating something really, really nothing. As he saw, I left both of the hoop hearings on the study ring, So I'm majoring the class with a nice, smooth, untested finish. However, if you remember the example pair of earrings I started to make, so compare the shaped and unshaken jump rings. I've given those lovely texture before soldering the so fitting on the back so you can see a way of adapting design of adding a little bit of extra interest to it. Although this class does refocus on using the rolling wheel to shape your metal, you can create a version of this project by hammering the silver instead of city For the rolling mill. You won't be able to create the e long gated oval shape, but you will still be able to flatten out the hearings on give them a nice, wider shape and also creates quite a subtle how much texture to them as well. Of course, if you've watched any of the other classes that use thesis Swiss done across being hammer that I've used on this extra pass stud earrings, then you already know that using that some of Hamah does actually stretch out metal as well . So it was having an experiment and seeing what shape you can turn it from prince into with hammers instead of rolling. Now, I would love to see what you create with these techniques, whether you leave your silver smooth or gives it texture, whether you go for the hoops or the studs, will you come up with your own idea of how to use the rolling counter shape? Jump friends in this way, please do upload photos to the project section of class, and if you have any questions, please do ask. Be great if you could also really feedback for students. Thank you for watching