Scalloped Drops Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare
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10 Lessons (1h)
    • 1. Scalloped Drops Earrings

    • 2. Scalloped Drops Earrings - equipment

    • 3. Scalloped Drops Earrings - materials

    • 4. Scalloped Drops Earrings - sawing

    • 5. Scalloped Drops Earrings - annealing

    • 6. Scalloped Drops Earrings - texturing with the rolling mill

    • 7. Scalloped Drops Earrings - filing

    • 8. Scalloped Drops Earrings - drilling

    • 9. Scalloped Drops Earrings - the wirework

    • 10. Scalloped Drops Earrings - final thoughts

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About This Class

Welcome to the Scalloped Drops Earrings class! This class will help you to become more confident with the rolling mill, one of the best investments you can make for your jeweller's workshop, and also teach you how to create a pretty scalloped pattern around the edge of a piece of silver sheet.


My rolling mill is one of the pieces of equipment that I use the most in my workshop, helping me to recycle my silver and to change the shape and gauge of my silver wire - techniques I will teach you in future classes. I also use my mill to add beautiful textures to my silver sheet, and this is the rolling mill technique I will focus on in this class. I will introduce the main features of a rolling mill and show you how to use it to add a pattern to silver shapes, and also demonstrate how the mill changes the shape of these shapes. We will then be doing a little wirework to allow the scalloped drops to hang from the earwires.

A downloadable information sheet to help you get the most out of your rolling mill is attached to the project section of the class, and don't worry if you don't have access to a rolling mill as the earrings can also be easily made by texturing the silver discs with hammers or texture punches instead.

This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me.

In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is for intermediate jewellery makers.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers all of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #9 in the #52earrings challenge

Meet Your Teacher

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Joanne Tinley

Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer


I have been making my own jewellery for as long as I can remember and left my first career as a school teacher to set up business as a jewellery designer and tutor nearly 14 years ago. I am self-taught and like many people I started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making! There is something so magical about watching solder flow through a seam, joining two pieces of metal together smoothly.

I work from my studio on the south coast of the UK with 15 other wonderfully creative artists. I design and make jewellery for galleries across the UK, teach regular and popular jewellery design workshops, and also offer private tuition. My jewellery design projects have been published in both UK and US magazines and books.

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1. Scalloped Drops Earrings: Hello, My name is Jonathan. Me, I'm a joy design and teacher from South Coast UK On and welcome to slap stops us. This is an intermediate class Sichuan teach use of new tricks will be using the rolling mill to texture to hearts of along mobile. And then I'll show you how to use needle files to create a pretty Scott pattern around the edge of shapes. Firing does say some patients, but it is worth it. This class is part of my 52 hearings. Siri's I've challenged myself to create 52 hearing designs in 2017 on film tutorials for them. The help for the 52 Hearings hash tag on Instagram and Facebook to see behind the scene photos. So if you're ready, that start off by looking at the equipment that you're going to need to make the earrings 2. Scalloped Drops Earrings - equipment: these air handles you're going to need in this hearings class going to use thes Sharpie on the blue plastic template to mark onto the silver sheet. That shape is on what to cut out. And then I'm going to solve those shapes. Sounds with the jewels sore. Supporting my work on the bench. Paige on Duthie a print underneath will catch the scraps and dust that four downs they go in my scrap pot to be recycled. The flat needle file is there because I'm going to use that to refine the shape after I saw on it out. But I'm going to be using the oval file at a later stage to give the wavy shape to the bottom part of the earrings. The material that you can see here is a cut off piece of material from a blind. As I put up in the studio, that bind was too white, so I say the material. But I'm going to be sending that with the silver through the rolling mill, and I'll show you the rolling will shortly. However, if you don't have access to a rolling mill, even use a lot of different off techniques to texture your silver. You could hammer it with different types of hammers that give different textures. I have a look, a toothy other jewelry classes that I produced to give you some ideas of textures. Or you could use decorative metal punches instead to put a pattern into silver. All, of course, you can leave a plane. We're going to be using the other tools you can see here to shape the wires, obviously going to be using the wire customs to cuts the wire and then around those pliers ons the flat nose pliers to shape the wires that we're going to attach to silver sheet and shape the ear wires. I'm going to bend the ear wires around stepped Mandel off, though of course, you could use a Sharpie to do that. Instead, I'll be using the needle file again at the end to make sure that the end of the year wise and nice and smooth and comfortable to go to the holes in your ears I'm going to help to strengthen the ear wires by hammering the front part of thumb with the hammer that you can see here punishing hammer. But our support, the Iwas on the bench. Block on the cushion, lost. I'm hammering it. You will also need to drill under no 0.9 millimeter Drillbit to drill two holes at the top of the sheet section on each airing. You don't see use a hand drill, but I like my little bench drill, so I'm going to be using that. Although there's no soldiering involved in, this project was still going to eat a few pieces as the soldering kit because I'm going to need to a Neil the sheet silver before I send it through the rolling mill. Remember, a kneeling means heat treating heating the silver up, quenching it, cleaning it up again to soften it so that you can put a good texture into it. So what? Slate tiles on soldering blocks to protect my work surface. A small blow torch to heat the silver up river section. Tweezers to pick the silver up with whilst it's hot are there in quaint shit in the tub of water. Pop it in the safety pickle in the so called vertically atop and remember that you need to get the work out of the safety pickle with the brass tweezers. Not the steel ones. Otherwise, the copper that's held in the safety pickle solution will come out of the solution and back onto the silver. And you don't really want to do that. The safety glasses there because, well, even you got one pair of eyes and you want to look after them. The biggest piece of kit since I'm going to be using to make the earrings is my rolling mill. I've got quite a fancy one with gears that make it a lot easier to turn because I use the rolling mill a lot in my work. You actually don't need a rolling mill as fancies. Once I've got you could get some very good ones, quite often owns value range ones or Chinese or Indian made rolling mills that do the job very well. In fact, I had one of those for many years before I upgraded. Andre really upgraded because I need to the gears on a wider section on the rollers to work with. Traditionally rolling mills are used to shape on thin out sheet and wire, but they're also great at in Boston, patterns into the silver, and that's it. I'm going to be using it for in the class. Remember, though, as I've already said, you don't need to use the rolling mill for this class. You can give your sheet metal for the earrings are really lovely texture by eating texture , punches or hammers instead. 3. Scalloped Drops Earrings - materials: the's all the materials that you're going to need to make the year rings. You need some no 0.8 millimeter wire to make the ear wires. No 0.8 millimeters My preferred sickness, as it's thick enough to be strong enough to hold its shape, but it's still enough to be comfortable where it's passed through the holes in your ears. I'm going to be used in the same no 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge wire to form the section of one's friends. Connect the sheet to the ear wise. The piece of sheets that I've got here is approximately no 0.7 millimeter sterling silver sheet. It's left over from another couple of projects on. As you can see, it's already lost its plastic coating on its bright shine, because I have heat it up a least once Andi cleaned it up through the pickle. No 0.7 millimeters is usually the thickest sheets that I used to making a pair of earrings . You can go down as though is about no 0.5 millimeter, because hearings are, after all, generally rather small. However, I'm going to be sending the silver pieces that I cut out the sheet through the rolling mill to give them a texture, and that's going to thin them out a little bit so that I'm gonna be starting off with no 0.7 millimeter sheet is probably going to end up with something like North 0.6 millimeter. 4. Scalloped Drops Earrings - sawing: I've used a Sharpie on the template for George and I slow oval on the Peter sheet. This oval is the bottom one. Down here it's about 43 by 30 millimeters at its longest and widest points. I find these templates very useful. But if you don't have one, then have a look at what could heart. You can find on Prince some of that out instead. So I'm going to cut shape out. I'm going to start on this section here and work my way around because that's already on the edge of the piece of Silver Way. A couple of tips to remind you about from your story. Try and keep the bladers upright as possible, because that's going to help you to be accurate and hopes to turn the corners on the bones of need is possible. Onda also listen out the sound that you're making you want a nice, smooth, rhythmic sand. Yeah, so no, this time sound. That sounds because I was starting to put just a little bit of pressure on the saw blade. It doesn't need that pressure would do the job for you just by riding. I go one over there are some other tips available for you to help you. You're soaring. If you have a look in the projects, section the class, then you'll see a download that will give you some more hints and tips were soaring. The next day I want to do is to cut that oval in two and have 1/2 for each hearing. So going to use the Sharpie to help me to do that? Andi, I'm going to do this by I on their needs to know the two hearts afterwards to make sure that they are just saying likes bits out way. Was that you? Okay, that was a little bit too far over the first line. I'm happy with that. You kind, of course, Use a ruler to work out the me before you make a little bit more accurate. But when I send thes ovals with 1/2 ovals through the rolling mill, it's actually going to distort the shape little this anyway. So I'm happy to need to know my craft words instead, okay? And want to have shapes. And actually, I'm not shocked from I don't much up bad New tool. Now I'm not going to worry about Oh, that's firing the tops because that's something to need to need to nose up a little bit later anyway. But I am going to just file around to make sure that thes ages here a nice and smooth Andi . I'm going to use the flat needle files. How we do that. I spent two sweep around the edge. You can go across the silver, the edges silver like that, too. I tend to do a mix of the tree, this using my fingers to feel for any bumps. - Okay , now you quite often get birds of silver that, as you're fighting, the file pushes bars of silver over the edge. Just get rid of those by holding a file at about 45 degrees ish on the edge of the sheet. Just sweep across. Just get me days because otherwise they might interfere when we send sheet through the rolling mill and interfere with the texture. It could also, if you wanted to the same with the other one, a little bit of a bump there, so no work work from that. Get rid of it, and then sweet ground. Can you just sweep five th get me today's best we go. That's the first stage of the hearing stunk 5. Scalloped Drops Earrings - annealing: Soren and filing the sheet to cut the shapes. ELT has work, hardens the silver a little bit on because I want to send it through the rolling mill to get a nice embossed texture. I'm now going to a Neil it to soften it a little bit now. Usually when I'm a kneeling a piece of silver, I use the nice bloom of oxygen ization that appears as one of the clues to show me that I've got the right temperature for a kneeling. However, on a piece of silver like this, it's already being heated up. At least once. We won't actually get us much optimization forming. That's because it's already bean in the safety pickle. Once we've hit the top, quenched it, put it in the safety pickle on that's remove some of the copper from the surface so that this time around my heat again there won't be as much optimization forming because there's not as much copper there to oxidize. So I'm going to show you a different trick. Instead, if you scribble a bitch of Sharpie or permanent marker onto the silver and then he silver up by the time you have all but burnt off the sharp. You re just a ghost. The markets left. You've got just the right temperature. I mean, if you swore blowtorch because I don't need to get these up to a great heat, why do you keep them evenly? You could see that mark burning off already. Soldiers their main for counter kinds of five for pizza. Sober this size, I may want to the 2nd 1 and then to completely anything. Process moves. I just need to quench them. I gotta put the's in. The pick would clean up because although there's virtually no obvious ization two on the surface, I don't know, we can see the edges do look dirty with oxidation on. That's because those ages of freshly cut so that they still 7.5% copper, that you can see through the edges enough copper to oxidize so that needs cleaning up in the pickle. And then once I've done that, I shall put me to the rolling mill to em boss, a nice texture into them. 6. Scalloped Drops Earrings - texturing with the rolling mill: It's now time for the metrical bitter class, using too heavy steel rollers to press a part of the soft Peter material into the silver. I've cut to pieces off the material enough to fold over thesis over shapes. I've cut out cycling boss, both sides of the Peter Silver. And of course, when I did that, I realized I left our Pete of equipment off the list earlier. My apologies that your sir venting to pass scissors to cut material. I also cut a piece of material long enough to wrap around a piece of scrap left over from the sheets that I cut the oval from. And I also any was that piece of scrap so that I could use us tester to help me make sure that Side two sets the rolling mill up at the right amount of pressure by turning the handle on top of the rolling mill, it moves the rollers further apart. If you consider it to the White War starting to appear between the rollers, it's now why'd no start with my finger through? I'm telling it, but down again, we'll put that back down to Well, that was I had it the more expensive rolling mills have a gauge at the top, and you can use that to help you set your rolling mill to the correct settings for the job that you want to do. You can't take the numbers at the top of the gospel truth, so might not be completely accurate compared to the wits between the two rollers. But it's very useful to perhaps a mark on their thesis. Etting is that you need for particular projects maybe some sicknesses of sheets that you use quite a bit, although even using the same sickness of sheet, you're still going to need to very setting on the rolling mill a little bit, depending on how sick the material is that you are sending through with the silver toe embossed ipek There to em, boss, the texture into it. And also how wide is the piece of silvers as well. The wider the piece of silver, the tighter the rollers need to be because the greater the pressure is going to be needed to em boss a pattern into the silver. I have attached another information sheet future download that gives a little bit more information about how to set up your rolling mill. I used the piece of scrap to help me work out that on my gauge on the rolling mill. I need to set it toothy 0.7 to 5 setting. I worked that out by opening up. The role is a little bit putting the piece of scrap in between the rollers closing the rollers down. So they were tight up against the silver on the the double folded blind material so that it was snug and I couldn't put pull the piece of scrap by count again. I then made a note on the gauge off what number was showing nice little arrow and over the rollers back up again so I could take the scrap back out, then tighten the rollers back up again to a couple of marks on my gauge past. The setting or tighter that night had it before and sent the piece of scrap in the material through. That gave me a really nice texture, so that's a setting a 0.7 to 5 setting on my gauge here. That's a settings I'm going to use for sending the two halves of the oval through for my earrings. I've got the first piece of over sheet here on going to fault the material over it. Andi, I'm going to everything set up how I needed to pay. I'm going to send it through the rollers so that it's going through. Head on is going through nice and straight because the rolling machine will stretch the shape out a little bit. I don't want it to end up a little bit. Skew if I'd like like it to stretch out even the so that the half oval is still is closest . Symmetrical as I can make it. So hold it in place. Handle my treatment from the other side. I'm happy with that texture. I'll show you close up in the moment has come out on both sides, so time to see the other one. This time I'm going to show the rolling mill for a slightly different angles. He can see what comes out the other side as well. There we have to nicely textured two pieces of feet on the texture. It's on both sides of them as well. You can also see where the material where it was in contact, so but it's really been smoothed out by Soviet for the rolling mill. So with a technique like this, that piece of material can really be used once. So next thing I need to show you is how to create that way. The edge, Onda. At the same time, I'm gonna make sure that the two hearts of the oval are nice and even so, make a matching pair of earrings. 7. Scalloped Drops Earrings - filing: Now that my 2/2 ovals are being checked you through the rolling mill, I need to make sure that they match before I start any of your shaping by remarked across the top of this one a line because the top is actually sloping some art a horizontal line on. The first thing I need to do is file down. Stop trying to make sure the top is not horizontal. So I'm going to use the flat needle files that we do that. Remember that the files only work in one direction away from you. You go across so or across the metal like that Doesn't matter what you do. Why did you do a compilation that safe? - If you're a little bit straighter, just turned it round. So the the mark on the other side doesn't distract me. Looks a little bit straight a bit high. Still, this site you might see as, ah, tiny bit by thing, but a silver sticking up just they're not actively, easy to see, but let's just pass the burgers that some appears. You start filing some of silver, gets pushed over the edge. - But I'm happy with that, so I know need to get the 2nd 1 too much. They match pretty nicely around the curve by pleased with that. But I'm going to do now is he's the one that I've just filed as a template into much of again nice it bottom and use a Sharpie just to draw across the top of it says I've got a mark on the second piece is I nearly fell down to of his speed to spit up a bit so you don't have to watch. We do the same thing twice. - I'm pleased with how they match. I now want to put the nice, wavy appearance around the edge of each half oval. Andi, I'm going to use the Oval Needle found. I've got here to do that. Just gonna work one time. So put that one out of the way. For the moment on, I'm going to use a felt E to mark around the edge of the oval, So I want to try a late These marks, very even. It was so very symmetrical as well. - There's a better way to do it through the lines. Well, the way across making the lines of powers I can with top until I'm going to do to get the way even is to mark. It's a file just in one place. At what slowly, first, you might be out to sea. A little indentation. That's three being filed in there when keeping the needle file. But my tangles to repeat a silver so it's bison even across the age don't want it. So be one side or another, because then you won't get a nice evening shape. He's such a quite so early so far slip. But once the U shape that it's carving into silver becomes a little bit more pronounced, you can also become confident. Pick up speed of it. Remember, it's just the forward motion of these files that cut. But I'm keeping file in the same place in that channel that I'm filing as I go backwards just so that I don't sleep. Should we have to see a little bit more now, the shape that's firing in the definite becoming more pronounced now, the fact that for the moment here we go back and do a little bit more for went to when we want to the 2nd 1 So you start off but slowly and then is that channel starts to become a bit more pronounced. You can pick up speed. Do you remember to stretch your fingers out every now and again when you're doing this because you're holding onto a small piece quite tightly and you don't want to get krump Krampus motion likely to appear and the part of your some down here just to make sure that you you stretch your fingers out, - check before you go too far that they are even that's the one that I've just started. Now this is it can be too low in at this stage, my cat. That should be careful. Move my fire off a little bit so further up this way, - right ? So happy with that, we're going to use the flat fall again because at the moment there's a very distinct U shape with quite shop top. Sir Andi. I want to smooth them out bit so it's a bit being a you the street bit in the U the straight. But I wanted to be more of a wave, so just use the flat file to remove those top sound curve the mouth bit. I find it easiest. Still, the ones on the right hand side of each. You and then turn the piece of rifle round and do the other sides. Oh, hopefully, you can see quite distinct difference from two shapes. Nothing I haven't done this one yet is just filed tops a little bit because those top corners is still quite sharp. Simples conscious, sweet across like. So just check his field, make sure that they're not no shop anymore for so just going to use the overall file again just to do that, sweeping it around the edge to get rid of the buzz. Three for my music. Yeovil filed this time says that the flat one, please, because it's a, uh, is better suited to shape, basically. So now filed some cold Hey, values into the faith. Okay, I'm going to follow the second hearing too much on then. Next stage will be drilling to holds at the top of each shape 8. Scalloped Drops Earrings - drilling: I've used a Sharpie to mark two points at the top of each of the filed and shaped ovals or half ovals on. That's where I'm going to drill the holes that the wise going to go through. I'm using no 0.9 millimeter drill bits because that's going to be a good fit for the North 0.8 millimeter wireless I'm going to be using. It's going to allow the wire to go through nicely without having to re struggle and push it through, but not be too loose on this whole sort. Going to fit quite nicely into the curves that I filed in here. So has his stuff. It's the 1st 1 done when you are using one of these electric drills on just still getting used to it. It's best to practice. Make sure that you know exactly where the drill bits going to go, align everything up properly and then then switch the drill on and start to draw the whole properly. But once you build up confidence to get more practice with, these you can do is I was just doing and half the drill spinning. What's your bringing the drill bit down and then finish lying atop individually in in one movement. So do the 2nd 1 Now, if you have burgers, little bits of metal on the inches, the whole thing a easy way of saying those up is to use a larger drill bit, not one that's two new. Otherwise it would be too sharp. You just put your chin the hose, spin it around front and back. That will sweep the birds away from the site. So I'm going to actually polish these pieces now because the ear wires and the other bits of wire won't actually need polishing very much if you just give them a quick grew up with the polishing cloth if I need to. But I'm going to put these in the tumble, polished for a little bit and get them nice and cleaned up, ready for finishing off 9. Scalloped Drops Earrings - the wirework: the bottom section of silver sheet section, the earrings now nicely polished. I actually had to heat them up before I could polish thumb, because the Sharpie mark has gone quite deep into the lovely textures I got from sending this overthrew the rolling mill. Andi, simply polishing it, didn't get it out. So I had to heat the work up again, burn off that mark, then popped in the pickle and then polish it. And now they're They're nicely polished and ready for the next part. As you can see, I've really started that on one of the earrings. Swings quite nicely. Offer will handle, I suppose, is the best way to describe it. On there's an I loop at each end, off a U shape on death. EU has Bean Hammett. You can see that when we have about the light a little bit flatter. It's being hammered to give it to me. The strength. We can't simply just turn the eye loops at each end of the U, and then threat those I loops through the two holes in the silver sheet because you need to threaten to through to at the same time. So I'm going to show you what we need to do. Starting off with 5.5 centimeters. No 0.8 millimeter wire. Andi, I'm going to bench that wire. It's a big point. Been that why, around the middle section off the step from Angel's I'm so fond of using, it's going to double check that they, uh, going to be equal ranks. Not quite a pull that one out of it. Do not quite right. No better but easy for me to see from this angle. Okay, so wasn't even you a little bit. I'm going to threat that wire through the hose and silver sheet. That's it. She's now because it's almost like a staple. I suppose that this section, this part they fit through quite nicely. Hey, So what I'm going to do, though, before I certainly have carry on to do some more work, is I'm going to put the hammering in. So but now the cushion with a bench block on top and hammer that top section. Uh huh. What that does is give a lot of strength to this top section because I'm going to be manipulating the wire quite a bit. I would be quite easy to lose that nice, rounded shape. I don't want to do that. Hammering will help to keep it in that. So Swifty's back through again. Andi, I'm now going to turn the loops at the end of those peace wire bangs, going to use my round nose pliers to do that and hopefully see that I put a Sharpie mark across both noses of around those pliers, and that is where I want to turn the loops. I put a mark there because I want to the loops on both ends the weiter match, but I also want the loops on that hearing. So match the loops on that hearing, and this is the best way to do it. Putting a permanent marker mark on there and that will eventually wear off right? This was important. You don't want to bend your loops down towards the sheet. You want to spend some up, so I'm going to pop the wiring there at the mark lunch, then twist the wire around and see it put Mark on both sides. It's time it's so little bit more friendly than doing normal. I loops with this Peter sheet in the way There's the first sleep and seem to next one, but again, it must go up towards the top. Hey, I don't want it going down. Otherwise gonna have problems with the next part. Hey, to I loops Just going to use my finger so you can see that's a bit of a a bend in that section for the wire round of. But since leave my fingers just to straighten it back up again, that's any wire take to go right nearly there. But that why that sheet rather definitely won't go into the eye loops yet. So what I'm gonna have to do is open up the islets again. You've got to open them up in a certain way. I'm going to use the fact no supplies to do that. What I'm going to do is left open this I loop, twisting it towards the outside of the hearing. I show you what I mean. Just remember to open up the I loops. You just lift them up. I see. Uh, we're going toe point away on going to do the same to the other one. And again, it mustn't go in the same direction is the other one has got to go towards the outside corner now, what you should be up to do. It's a little bit of manipulation if pull the sheet. Of course, it's not going completely smoothly because I've been demonstrating it. Right. Meeting these up a little bit? No. Okay, this will be a friendly, but by opening them up that way, just fiddling about with the the sheet a little bit. They do fit all. Now I'm gonna have to tidy up the edges of the U shape here. Well, he's not on your plans to help me to do that. But the important thing is such you shape has kept its nice round shape. And now I've got with sheet on the I loops. I can close and back down again. His twist. Place him down. There was downloadable instruction sheet, by the way, giving you some more help to make these I loops. If it's something that's new to you, so just going to use No, I don't. Your place just need to not wire up. The best way to do it is hold it across both wires. Just give him a gentle squeeze that brings him back in line. with each other. Now we've got both the same way. Now. We've got two pieces of silver sheet with their handles on. I'm going to keep it so that the I loops are facing towards the back of the earring. It happened that way around if you want to. So the next job is actually to make you wise themselves. I move those after the way they don't distract us. And I've got to four house centimeter links off no 40.8 millimeter wire. Andi going start off by forming, and I loop at each change. And just so that things much up nice. I'm going to use the same mark on the ground those place. So first step isn't I, like same on the other one. Remember how to journey? I loops. Got sound. That downloadable instruction sheet. Andi. Yes. Again, I'm going to use the step Mandrell one going to use the middle section. I don't particularly want these ear wise to be very long because the earrings themselves a longer than I usually make him. So I'm going to hold the wire quite so that I loop is quite close to the mantle and spend it around quite quite dinky little ear wise compared to some of the other ones I use you make on. And such a form, the 2nd 1 oops that you can see. I couldn't quite hold that loop flat well, in the right direction to the Mandel, because any why we had to bend it round control bit important thing is this. I want to see whether it is the right blank's most looking quite bitch. Put it back on the mantle, finish spending that wire and to realize don't check the same links at the back. Yeah, that's a good much. I was going to use the flat nose pliers just to hold him over. That's que with I look, you just twist it around. But now that lying neatly. What's going to use the flat nose pliers to remember this part before? If you've seen a mother close is difficulty getting out into focus. It's always the most difficult part of showing this. So I've got the wire going across the the flat. Those supplies, like So just Frenchy pull that back, quit a little bit to flick out to the end of the year. While this is a bit more of a finished look on, and it's actually also, I don't quite do that straight. It actually also makes it a bit more difficult for the ear wives to come out of your ears because they've actually got to quite simply change direction to keep coming through the holes in your ears. Most adventure hammer the front of the U shape so they they keep the shape nicely. Didn't take very much you can with the other one. And last but not least, I need to file any idea why so nice and comfortable to go? So your is, by the way, you don't have to use a needle file to do this job. You can also get a tool called a cup for um, a bird is something that you can even use My handle can fit in something like a Dremel Andi . It has teeth carved into it on those teeth, Then grind down or fire down your metal. The Kupper. It has got a little teeth filed. Teeth inside the cup on. What you can do is fit that cut over the end of your wire twisted around on that file. See end for you, doesn't matter what she used to go to the same job. I just before my needle file. Use your fingers whether you're using a cup bearer or needle fire, just to check that. Such is nice and smooth. Very well, since I need to do is put these together so it's going to twist open that I loop thread on the hand of on the hearings. Andi. But down again, don't do the same to the 2nd 1 Twist open lift up. But that blew for the end of the wire. Quite just enough. Original hearing. Make your hearing state inside the loop. Sometimes it's a bit tricky. Yes, I believe that's better in close but down again. There we have a new pack feelings. 10. Scalloped Drops Earrings - final thoughts: I'm really pleased with these earrings, the scout and she's really pretty on. Although it does take a little while to create, it's not that difficult. Once you get the hang of it, I think it's best to choose quite a subtle texture with silver, so you don't take the attention away from the shape of the earrings too much. There's always enough to see what you create and how you adapt the design to make it your own on. Please do leave a review for other students to help them see what classes about. Thank you for watching.