STICKERS: Design, Setup, Slap | Jon Brommet | Skillshare

STICKERS: Design, Setup, Slap

Jon Brommet, Graphic Designer

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10 Lessons (35m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:28
    • 2. Design & Illustration Process

      3:24
    • 3. Vectorizing Hand Drawn Art

      3:09
    • 4. Creating A Die Line

      4:30
    • 5. Creating An Underlay (Specialty Sticker)

      4:24
    • 6. Ordering From StickerApp.com

      3:59
    • 7. Behind The Scenes & A Thank You!

      3:41
    • 8. Bonus - Die Line Revisited

      3:45
    • 9. Bonus - RGB v CYMK v PANTONE

      3:46
    • 10. A Message From Future Jon

      2:24
24 students are watching this class

About This Class

Where do I begin on this class? Stickers are awesome! At one point or another in your life you have likely acquired a sticker that was so amazing you couldn't find a worthy spot to put it! I've still got a drawer full of those.

In this class I am going to walk you through my process of designing, illustrating, and setting up stickers for print.

For this class, I have found the coolest sticker company on the planet to sponsor this class. They are StickerApp.com and as I write this I am still amazed at how cool their stickers are. Don't believe me? Check out their website or their Instagram @StickerApp and see for yourself!

So that's it! Check out the class and let me know what you think!

Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hey, what's up Skillshare and welcome to Stickers. My name is John Brommet. I'm a graphic designer and illustrator in Barrie, Ontario, Canada. In this class, I'm going to show you my workflow and how I start with an initial sketch, I turn that into Vector Artwork, I set up a DIALIGN and underlay and get my stickers ready for print to be printed by the amazing people at stickerapp.com. Of course, in this class, I also have a contest and three lucky students are going to get a $50 voucher, which they can use stickerapp.com to order any stickers that they want in any size, quantity, and so on. Most of this class is going to focus on my whale design because it is printed on chrome vinyl. It's got a white underlay under the black and the blue so that it doesn't reflect and just the dark blue actually shows the chrome, so it gets a reflection on the tattoos. If you're like me, probably at some time in your life you've had a sticker-up obsession. I still have a drawer full of stickers that I couldn't find something worthy to stick them on, so instead they collect dust in my drawer. But we want to help you make some designs that are going to be really cool and hopefully, you'll learn something new in this class. Also, you'll be able to work with a really cool company that prints out amazing quality stickers. They're all vinyl. They're waterproof. They're going to last a long time. They're just really good quality stickers. I hope you check out the class and click "Enroll" and we'll see you in a minute. 2. Design & Illustration Process: Welcome to the class. As I said in the introduction, this class is mostly going to be about my whale design and I'm going to show you all the process from illustrating it to adding a dieline, to adding a specialty like an underlay if that's something you're interested in, digitizing it like turning it into a vector artwork. All those steps just so you know how to make stickers and you can take what from it what you will and order your own stickers if you want to. To start with, I'm going to show you my process. The first idea that I came up with is I wanted to draw a whale and I had the idea of an octopus being in that stomach like it ate the octopus but you can see through the stomach. Then I also had the idea of the tattoo whale. I put both on Instagram. Sometimes it can be a really great thing for people to give you input on, and everyone loved the tattoo version better. I decided to go with that. Here is the beginning of my sketching. I'm actually using an app called Procreate. I'm sketching digitally on the iPad Pro, but it'll be the exact same if you were just sketching on paper except for that I can easily erase and move things around. You can see right now, it's extremely rough. I'm not worried about it looking good. I'm just trying to get all my ideas down and get an idea of placement and then I'm even doing some word association and I'm writing down different things that maybe I could add to it. Then from there, that's when I start to add the inking and then try to refine it. The reason why I use cyan, is that's an old comic book way to do it. They still do it today. The reason why they do that is they'll draw it in cyan, print it out, draw over it with black ink. Then when they scan it, the scanner doesn't pick the cyan up. But it's also just a nice color and it's light and easy to use when you want to ink over it so that's why I do it that way. You can see that I'm just focusing on bit by bit, adding in the shadows. I wanted to try and keep the colors pretty minimal because sometimes that'll save you some money, especially if you are screen printing designs of some kind. Yeah, I'm just moving things around. The idea was definitely that since a whale is obviously in the water, that I would keep things related to nautical different things. I had birds, and anchors, and I had the pirate idea still. I still like the idea of the octopus, so I drew that on the side and did the joke of the size matters. Yeah, it's basically just trying to come up with whatever you can and refine it and redraw it, that's my process. I've definitely drawn on paper a lot and then just scanned it in. Then in Photoshop if you want to, you can move things around. But a lot of the times, you're limited to where you put it, you can't as easily move it around as you can when you draw in digital. Right here, I'm just experimenting with drawing it in a thicker stroke, but I decided that was too thick, so I went back. You can see that I redraw things over and over just to get them the way I want them to. But I still wanted this design have a hand-drawn feel. I didn't want them to be perfect, precise vector shapes, which I'll talk a bit more about in the vectorizing video next. But yeah, this gives you an idea of how I draw and you can see how I redraw things. If you have any questions, just post them in the discussion and let me know what you think. But that's my general process. You can see with the text, I actually brought in a little image and then I redrew over. That's it. Well, see you in the next video. 3. Vectorizing Hand Drawn Art: There's a few different steps that you could have got to, to get also where I am right now. You could have hand-drawn your artwork and scanned it in and then brought it into Photoshop or then straight into Illustrator. You can have a Photoshop image that you've saved as a JPEG, PSD, TIFF, something like that. Brought that in Illustrator, you could have vector artwork because you created in Illustrator, or you could do what I did. I brought in a PSD that I had exported out of procreate on my iPad. In any event, you're going to have artwork here. If you have vector artwork, you can skip the next minute or so. But if you don't have vector artwork, I'm going to show you a way to quickly make it. This is going to depend on whether you want perfect artwork or not. If you want your artwork to look precise and it's just extremely accurate in fires curves and things like that, then you can redraw it with the Pen Tool or Shapes. I've already actually made two classes that really go over that well with the Pen Tool class and a Pathfinder class, those will really show you just how to make really precise vector artwork. But sometimes, what you want is your artwork to look really hand-drawn, and obviously, there's no better way than just a hand-draw it. Then you can bring it into Illustrator and we use something called Image Trace. I'll show you how to do that right now. We're just going to zoom in here, you can see it's a little bit pixelated, but when I brought the image in, it was at 25 inches and it's at 132 dpi. I don't need it that bag, I'm going to break it down to around eight inches, we'll zoom in. Because as you can see up here, the pixels per inch is 438. That's a pretty high resolution. If you're scanning in your work, just make sure you're scanning in at least 300 dpi and image trace will work best for you that way. Now, we just need to figure out how many colors we're going to use. In this case, it'll usually count the white as a color, black, dark blue, light blue, so we've got four colors. The easiest thing to do is go to Image Trace, and I'm going to make it six colors. We're going to say "Okay" to that, let's just say it's going to take a little bit longer because your image quality is pretty high. Once this goes ahead and maps out all the things, and we're going to open the dialog box, and we're going to turn it from six colors down to four. You can see it hardly looks any different, I didn't even notice any changes. We're going to go ahead and make this forward, just in case it'll try and sometimes it'll add a color that doesn't need to be there like a weird, slightly different shade of what you're using. We're going to on four, that it's exactly what we want. Once your artwork is ready, then you go over here and you just hit Expand, you can now close this dialog box. What we're going to do is we're going to double-click to go into the layer, and we're just going to select the white and delete that. Now, you might have artwork where there's white all over the place, and if you don't want it, then just select the biggest piece of it. Go to Select, Same, Fill Color, and then it'll select all the way and you can hit Delete. If we double-click where now out of that group and we have a finished vector whale. You can see that the quality is great. [inaudible] Now, we just need to make a die line. 4. Creating A Die Line: So now that your work is ready, inspector, we're going to go ahead and we're going to make a cut line. I should mention that sometimes if you have little textures and things, and you want to keep your work rasterized, that's okay. You're just going to have to make a shape and draw it with shapes or the pen tool that goes around your raster artwork. But they can stay raster, that's not a problem. So I'm going to click this and I'm going to go "Command C", or "Control C" on my keyboard, and then "Command F", and what that does is copy it and paste it in place. From there, we're going to make sure that we have our Pathfinder window open, by going to Window, and then we're going to go down to Pathfinder, make sure there's a check there, and then we're going to hit the "Unite" button. In my case, I get these little [inaudible] lines, so I'm going to hit "Merge" and then unite again, and then I'll clean all that up. So now what we need to do is turn this in our cut line. So that's pretty simple. Over here, we're just going to drag this down and we're going to make it a 100 percent magenta. That's a pretty standard color for a dye line in the industry. As long as you artwork isn't all pinks, it's probably good to use a 100 percent magenta, if you have a lot of pink in your artwork, just use a color that really contrast and stands out against your artwork. Now this is a very important step. We want to go to this drop down menu right here, and we're going to hit "Create New Swatch". In order for sticker robot and most printing companies to recognize that we need to turn this to a spot color. Then we're going to call it dye space cut. So if you color it exactly that with these things turned on, sticker our apps website will instantly be able to recognize this as a cut line. As long as we go ahead and we're going to swap this to a stroke, and they'll recognize that anywhere from 0.25, I'd like to go 0.5 points. That's just a standard thickness that I like to use. So there's one more step that we need to do. I'll try and explain what will happen here, and any printing in any industry and in any company, what will happen sometimes is your artwork will shift a little bit. So when you add something called bleed, for example, if we didn't add bleed and the artwork shifted a little bit and I get to cut, you could get some weird little white lines and things that you don't want to see. So what we do to avoid that is we're going to actually take this dye line that we just made, and copy it again. So "Command C" and I paste it again, "Command F", and then this time I'm going to use the black. I'm going to use my eyedropper tool, which is I on the keyboard. I'm going to grab this black, and now my shape is black. Then what I'm going to do is I'm going to go over here, and I'm going to drag it to my fill, and I'm going to increase that by 0.25 inches. That's maybe a bit thick or I'm just going to put that down there, it doesn't need to be quite that thick and you can bring that down, something around there. Just see how it looks good. But you just want to make sure that you have a decent amount of margin, we're going to expand it, and go ahead and hit "Unite". The only final step that you could do is sticker app has a software that'll actually turn your black into the nicest rich black that they can do. So what I would do is I go ahead and select your black, and then go to Select Same, Fill Color and just make it a 100 percent black. So we're going to leave it at zero cyan, zero magenta, and zero yellow, and sticker app will take care of making it a nice rich black for you. So there you go. That's all you need to do in order to make your dye line, and then the last step is just make sure your size is exactly where you want it to be, go ahead, and make your art board just a little bit bigger than that, just to make your artwork clean that way. So there you go. Lastly, you're going to go ahead and you're going to save this and you go up. In my case, I going to call it whale, and save it as a PDF, click "Save". You can use it as high-quality print. I have my own, let's press "Quality", but high-quality prints fine, and there you go. Now your artwork is ready to upload to sticker app.com. So in the next video, I'm going to show you a specialty print. It's only going to matter if you're going to use some really neat, unique vinyls like Chrome, brushed alloy, or something like that, and what it's going to do is, it's going to stop certain areas from allowing the shine of the Chrome to go through, so they call that a white underlay, and that's what the next video I'm going to show. If you're not going to have that in your stickers, you can skip the next video. This is the basic process, you just need to make sure you have your dye line on there. So we'll see you in the next video. 5. Creating An Underlay (Specialty Sticker): Now we're going to get into the strategy part of the class. This is adding a white underlay. I mentioned in the last video that this is something that's only going to be useful in certain cases. In my example, I printed the sticker on Chrome, and I only wanted this Chrome to show through where the tattoos are. In order to do that, you need to make a white underlay. This is definitely a little bit more complicated and you may be a little bit confusing to follow, so I would consider this a bit more of an advanced step, but it's not too bad, so hopefully you can follow along and of course, if you ever have questions, you can just post them in the discussion. In order to do what we want to do, I basically need to make another color shape that's going to show exactly where the white is going to print. I need to make sure that the blue that I don't want to print white is cut out of that. Sounds a little confusing, it's not as bad as it sounds. So first thing I'm going to do is I am going to go in here, I'm just going to double-click to go into my group and I'm going to select this dark blue. The easiest way to do that to make sure I get it is I'm going to use my Direct Selection tool, I'm just going to click a big piece, Select, Same, Fill Color. Now I have all this dark blue, this is what I want the Chrome to show through. I'm just going to go Command C to copy that and I'm going to double-click to get out of that group. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to hit Command F to place that in place and we're just going to make it a strong color that stands out pretty well. Now what I want to do is I'm going to take, I also want the white underlay to go under the black. Black usually won't show it as strongly, but still. So we're going to select my believe that I designed and I'm going to copy that, paste it in place. The only thing I want to do is go to Arrange and I'm going to bring that backward, you can use your quick keys here too, so I'm going to send that backward and I'm just going to use my cookies here. My pink came along groups, so I'm just going to hit Select, Same, Fill the Color and group it by hitting Command G. Essentially what I want to do is just cut this out of the black which is pretty straightforward, so we're going to select that, we're going to select the black, and I'm going to get over here to my Pathfinder and hit Divide, and then I'm going to hit Command G to group it, I'm going to double-click to go into the group, I'm going to select the pink, Select, Same, Fill Color, Delete. Now if hit Command A it should just show black here. If it doesn't, that means that you might have some weird straggler colors, so just make sure that you get everything one color. We're going to enter or leave that group and we're basically ready. The only other steps that we need to do is we need to do the same ideas, the spot color last time, so what we're going to do is make this 25, 25, 25, 25, we're going to go Create New Swatch, and again, this is for sticker apps specifically, but they like it to be called HPI-White, and we're going to call this a Spot Color and hit OK. There's one last step to make sure that this prints accurately and what that is, is an overprint. It's just a printer term and it stops the printer from printing this white when they don't want it to, we're going to go to Window, we're going to go to Attributes. This is something you'll rarely use, but we just want to go ahead over here and we're going to click Overprint Fill on. Now with that setup, we are good to go, the only thing that I like to do is make sure that my dialine is the topmost object, so I'm going to go Command Y to go into wireframe, I'm going to select where I think my my line is, and if I can't see it, what I'll do is I'll grab this, send it to the back, grab my line at the same time, it's grouped so ungroup it, bring that to the front, and there we go. We've got our stroke all the way, our pet line all the way to the front, we've got the white underlay, it's got an overprint fill, and we are good to go. At this point, you can just go ahead and hit File, Save if you've already saved it, otherwise Save As and give it a name. So hopefully that's not too confusing, again, if you have any questions about that, please let me know and we'll see you next video. 6. Ordering From StickerApp.com: Now that our work is ready, we're good to go to stickerapp.com and upload it to them so that we can order some cool stickers. I've got stickerapp.com already open, and note too that they have free shipping to Canada and the US. We go ahead here and we'll click "Materials" and you can see the different options that they actually have. They've got glossy coated vinyl, which is just a standard white glossy vinyl. They've got a transparent sticker which is really cool as you can see, you can actually see through the areas. Your artwork anywhere that is white will actually be a transparent, so you will able to see through it. They've got brushed alloy which is really cool, it's like the chrom, but then it's got the obviously brushed effect. Then we've got the mirror chrom, which is what I use in my whale stickers. You got wall stickers, they're meant to go on dry wall and they have a slightly less adhesion so they don't peel up your paint. You've got kraft paper stickers, these are really cool. The only downside of them is they are indoor used only, they're not waterproof like the rest of them are. The wall stickers aren't waterproof either, I don't believe. You can always order a sticker pack first just to see the examples of them and feel them yourself, so that might be something you want to do just to check them out first. Just take a look at those and then you can always just go back and you can click Custom stickers, or go right back to the website and then we'll click "Continue to custom stickers" to place your order. From here, we're going to want our cut contour, so that I cuts the toe the shape like these examples here. But if you want, you have a square, a circle, rounded corners, or you could have a sheet with the kiss cat. I'm not going to get into that right now, but straightforward enough. From there, then you can pick your size and your quantity. If we're going to use a custom material like I wanted, I'm going to go ahead and click that first, which is Mirror sticker, and then I'm going to enter my Custom size. I found that if I entered the Custom size, then clicked it, it would forget it and I have to re-enter it. Just do it in that order, it's not too big of a deal. I'm entering in my size in inches, and then we're going to go ahead, and I'm going to go with 500 pieces. You'll see too that their minimum amount of pieces is a little bit higher when you're using a specialty vinyl than it is if you just stick to the usual. You can see the type of files they accept: PDF, PNG, JPG, SVG, TIF, GIF, BMP, AI, and PSD. I want in use PDF because I thought that was the easiest and that's something I'm comfortable using. We'll go ahead, and we'll click "Upload file". I have two different versions here, I tried the NoUnderlay version if you're not going to have the underlay, which I'm guessing that many of you probably won't be playing with. We'll go ahead, and we'll click that. As you can see it recognized my cut line because it doesn't show the bleeds, so that's perfect. If you wanted to, you can always add a cut line. If I hit Small, it'll make it wider, and things like that. In this case, we'd be good to go, so I will just click "Save" and then I would pay for the order just as any kind of thing you order online. We're going to go back real quick. I'm going to upload a different file. This one is the whale with the underlay. I'd have to re-enter this information, but for the sake of showing you. You'll see it figured out the cut line again. Sometimes, when you have this underlay with the overprint checked, it messes up, it doesn't show it exactly. That's okay, don't panic. What I would do is I go down here to add a comment, and I would say, "The gray is meant to be a White Underlay. Please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions at," and then I would give them your e-mail. Something along those lines, I would click "Done" and then I would click "Save". Then from here, you just add it in your information, place your order, and you're good to go. So that's it, that's the class. I've got a quick little thank you and a little bit of behind the scenes in the next video, you can actually see my stickers being printed. [inaudible] that's really cool, and on that, we're done. 7. Behind The Scenes & A Thank You!: Okay. So I thought it would be interesting to show you guys a little behind the scenes of how the stickers are actually made at stickerapp.com. In this case, they had actually already printed my Chrome stickers and sent them to me in the mail. So I asked him to reprint some and just show the behind the scenes. So what they did, is they printed these ones digitally. So they're not on Chrome and they don't have the reflection and the tattoos, but still is a pretty good idea of the process. So this here is a wide format printer and the head is just going back and forth, laying ink onto the vinyl. After that, what they do is, they take the vinyl and they put it through a machine that actually adds a lamination to it. The lamination just adds an extra layer of protection and it makes it so it's more scratch resistant and the stickers will actually last longer. Even though they're already waterproof and high-quality on the vinyl alone, the lamination is just an extra step. From there, they put it into a cutter. So you can see here it's coming along and this is where your DIALIGN comes in. So your DIALIGN will tell the machine where the little blade needs to follow and cut along into those stickers. So this is just one big long sheet at a time and you can see that they gang the job up with other stickers to be printed, and then it just goes one-by-one and cuts each little sticker out. This is slowed down a little bit too, just so that you can see the process and you can see the quality. Sometimes it goes a little faster, it depends too. If you have a shape that's just like a circle or a square, it'll be lightning fast, whereas if you have a more complicated design and the little teeth like mine had, it goes a little bit slower. From there, you can see that they're just going to pop out all of the stickers out of the sheets. You do this by hand and they actually cut them into little rectangles first, and then, so he's doing about three or four sheets at a time when he pulls them out. We'll see that again in time-lapse here. Then once that's done, they put them in a nice little sticker package with the sticker app logo of course on it. They throw them in the mail and they come to you and you'll be excited to see your stickers. Well, that's it. I really hope you guys enjoyed the class. Thank you so much for taking it. I want to really thank stickerapp.com for sponsoring the class. They were amazing and they sent me lots of cool behind the scenes footage, as you saw, and the quality of the stickers that I got from them was far beyond what I ever could have expected. Definitely hands down, I'm never going to order from another company again. They've been amazing. Please check them out. Of course, it's stickerapp.com, check them out on Instagram and all social media at stickerapp. They've got a really cool Instagram page where they're constantly updating and they're always blowing my mind. Of course, follow me. That's at Jon Brommet on Instagram. I'm also on Facebook, Twitter, whatever else, dribble those things. My website is www.jonbrommet.com. On there, you can buy lots of stuff from me, like stickers, art prints, pens, patches, you name it. Hopefully you'll find something you like there. So yeah, this class, I actually shied away from what I've been doing in the past, which is focusing on a specific tool and showing you how to best use it, and instead I just wanted to show you an overall workflow. So let me know what you think of this class, and if you think that this is a good direction to go in, and if I should do future classes like these, or if instead I should focus on a single tool like I was doing in the past. Again, I really hope you guys enjoyed the class, I hope you learned something new. I can't wait to see your projects. Just start with your reference image or whatever, you don't have to start with the whole project. Just post it right away, get it started, and it'll help inspire you to actually get your stickers on and get comments from other students as well. So thanks again for joining the class and we'll see you next month with a new class. I think it's going to be really exciting and hopefully you guys will love it too. Thanks. Bye-bye. 8. Bonus - Die Line Revisited: Okay. So this is a bonus video. This also shows you how to set up as a dieline. I actually did this for stickerapp.com so that they could use it on YouTube. For my class, I actually wanted to show you that one way all the way through, but for them, I showed them doing some different stickers, and I also showed really quickly how to create a dieline if you don't have vector artwork, which is in this video. I figured for the sake of it, I would add it, it was a bonus video for you guys to check out. It is repeating the same information that I showed earlier, but it's slightly different and maybe it'll just help you understand it more if you need it, if not, you don't have to watch this. So enjoy it. Before uploading your final artwork to stickerapp.com, you just want to make sure that you have your dieline setup properly. In this video, we're going to show you how to do that. We're using Adobe Illustrator, and at this point I'm going to assume that you have some knowledge of the program, so, we're going to skip some of the basics. I've actually got a rasterized image that I took in a Photoshop, it was a vector, and I just wanted to add some of the texture that you can see in here. What I've also done already is I've gone ahead and I've made the line that I'm going to use to make my cutline from. If your artwork is already vector, then you don't need to do this, you can just copy the most outward shape and paste that to use your cutline from. If you've got different strokes and things, the easiest thing to do is go to "Object", "Expand" and a little button will come up where you can click "Okay". In this case, all of my shapes are already expanded. From there, you want to make sure that you have your path finder window open. So we'll go to "Window" and make sure that there's a check mark beside pathfinder, and then we're going to go over to "Unite", and click that. Now that this is all one shape, we're going to go ahead and make it a stroke, and with the stroke panel again, you just want to go to window and make sure stroke has a check mark beside it, and we're going to click "Align Stroke To Outside". This is where your margin will come in. You can go as small as two millimeters or 0.079 inches. So we're just going to type that in over here, and if you just put the inches symbol and hit "Enter". You can decide if you want to make it any thicker than that, but that's just the minimum that you want to make sure that your artwork won't have any issues if it shifts slightly while printing. Then from there we're going to go ahead and we're going to actually add a fill as well, just make it match. We're going to click the stroke and just drag it over, so now we have both. Go to "Object", "Expand Appearance", and we're going to go back over to "Unite". Now we're ready to make our dieline. In order to do that, we just need to make it quickly a spot color. A really good spot color generally is a 100 percent magenta. You can use a different color if you'd like. Just make sure that it stands out really well from your artwork. But magenta is a pretty common one. From there, we're just going to go ahead and we're going to click this little drop-down box, and we're going to go "Create New Swatch". We're going to call this diecut, and we're going to change the color type process to spot color. So we'll go ahead and click "Okay". The last step you need to do, is just make sure that your cutline is colored in the stroke and that the fill is set to No fill, so you can always click that. The thickness can be anywhere from 0.25 points all the way up to one. I'd like to leave it at 0.5, I think it's a good thickness and it's just easy to see, but not too difficult to see either. So that's it. That's how you make your dieline, and now you can go ahead and upload your artwork to stickerapp.com with it. Hope you enjoyed the video, and we'll see you next time. 9. Bonus - RGB v CYMK v PANTONE: Okay. So I wanted to come back with another bonus video and just talk a little bit quickly about color. It's something that I didn't touch on really in the class, and I decided it'd be something that would be useful for you to know if you're not familiar with it already. So it can be a bit confusing, but I'm just going to try and break it down as quickly and easily as I can. When you're printing your stickers, you can actually print them in three different methods. You can print them in RGB, CMYK, or using Pantone colors. There's definitely a few differences between each and I'll do my best to try and explain them without it being too confusing. The main thing is, RGB is more of an onscreen color method. That means that the monitor that you're looking at is made up of three colors: red, green, and blue, and then those colors are mixed together to create a ton of other colors. You can see the example here. But generally when you're printing, especially on any kind of commercial printer, the printing mode is CMYK. So they're actually using cyan, magenta, yellow, and black, and they combine together to make all the colors. I don't know all of the color theory as to the reason why we use one for the screen and one for print, but that's just the way it is. So it can be a bit confusing if you've set up something that looks good on your screen, and then when it's printed, because it's printed in a different color method, it may actually look different than what you're expecting to see. There's a couple ways that you can avoid that. One way that can be helpful is if you actually make your file in CMYK and that's pretty standard when you're designing something that's going to be printed anyways. But sometimes oddly enough, in RGB, a file will actually look a little bit nicer and some of the colors will be more crisp. But the problem with both RGB and CMYK is to some degree, it's hit and miss. So you could end up ordering your stickers and they'll come back a slightly different color than you expected, just because maybe your monitor isn't calibrated right, or it's just the difference of your monitor being RGB, and the stickers being CMYK. The best way to avoid this is by using the industry standard, which is a process called Pantone. The way the Pantone matching system works is that everybody theoretically all over the world has these Pantone books. Any kind of commercial printer should have them, and they'll print out your color and they'll test to make sure that it matches your Pantone. Some of them, depending on the printer and the application, will actually use Pantone inks to print them so they're exactly the same colors that you want. If you don't have a Pantone book that looks something like this, then maybe you can see if a friend does, or a graphic designer that you know, or even if you went to your local print shop and just ask them to look at the book. Again, this is a little bit above and beyond and you probably ordered your stickers in CMYK or RGB and have no problems, but if you want to really make sure that your colors are perfect then going the Pantone method is definitely the best. So for example, for me, I actually set my artwork in Pantone. So already, I showed you how to make this spot color, which I'm just going to delete and if I go ahead and click here, you'll see that it is actually a Pantone. It's Pantone 3005 C, rather than just a makeup of CMYK blue. The same with the background color, which is 2000995, and black is just a straightforward black Pantone. Like I said, it just makes sure that your color is going to be more like what you're expecting, and I happen to have a book handy. So what I would do, is I look at the book and I look at my screen and I try and pick the color that most closely matches what I'm looking for. So that's just a little bit about the behind the scenes of color and hopefully you guys can understand that. Again, it's not something you have to be too worried about, but if you want to make sure that your colors are perfect, then I would try and get your hands on a Pantone book. You can always buy one, but they can definitely be quite expensive. I hope you found that a little bit interesting and maybe you're learning something real quickly. Thanks so much for enrolling in the class already, those of you that have and welcome to the new students. We'll see you later. 10. A Message From Future Jon: Wait, one more thing. I'm adding this, this is future Jon Brommet talking to you, I hope you enjoyed the cost that you just watched. Some of these classes have been recorded a few years ago. I just wanted to give a little up to date on what I'm doing now. You can see that I've put out a ton of classes potentially from the class that you just watched as you may have been watching one of my older classes, so if you go over to my profile, you can click it somewhere on the Skill Share website or go to Skillshare.com/JonBrommet, spelled just like that with no H, it's just J-O-N. You'll see here I've got things broken down in my newest classes. This may even look slightly different for you because I'm putting out classes once a month right now. I've got my most popular classes, illustration, efficiency in Illustrator, Photoshop stuff, and then all of my other classes and make sure that if it's not already selected, you click 'see more' to see the rest of it. So many different classes. I hope you guys will be inspired to learn lots more and hopefully you're enjoying my classes and want to see more. If that's not enough, I'm at Jon Brommet on Instagram so you can check out my Instagram as well to know what I'm doing, I post all my new artwork there and of course let you know when I'm doing new skill share stuff. I've started a YouTube channel where I put short videos that are instructional, and I'm obviously advertising with my skilled shared class, but short videos that I can't really put a whole-class, so I put here on YouTube. I even do things like have conversations with other teachers, like Tabitha Park, plan to do that kind of stuff more often. If you head over to JonBrommet.com, I've newly updated my website. I have a digital shop where you can grab my procreate brushes or other things like that and on top of seeing that my different portfolio elements and things like that, I've also got a Etsy shop, which I'll click here and it would open this. You can buy all of my pins and different art things that I've created and I will ship them to you from me. I've gotten them all produced here in my home and they look awesome and I know that they're cool. I just recently started a Threadless shop, which you could click here. Of course this is about unskilled sharing contact. Everything's linked from my website. This new Threadless shop has all my merch that can be printed on demand on a really weirdly wild variety of things like, I don't know. Let's just click one of these things here. It's going to open a t-shirt, but let's just say maybe instead of a t-shirt you wanted a duvet cover or shower curtains. Why wouldn't you want those things? I don't know. Anyway, I've got lots of different things going on, if you'd like what I'm doing, please check out more of it and I'll keep making more things. Thanks everyone. Bye bye.