Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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10 Lessons (50m)
    • 1. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets

      2:00
    • 2. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - materials

      3:18
    • 3. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - equipment

      3:27
    • 4. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 5. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - preparing the rivets 1

      6:37
    • 6. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - preparing the rivets 2

      3:15
    • 7. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - soldering

      7:42
    • 8. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - finishing the rivets

      11:54
    • 9. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - finishing the necklace

      6:46
    • 10. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - final thoughts

      1:02

About This Class

Soldering is great fun and opens up a whole new world in jewellery making, but sometimes it's just as great to use materials that don't stand the heat! That's where rivets come in - a cold connection technique that holds layers of a jewellery design together without the need for a blowtorch.

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This fourth class in my series moves on again through the riveting techniques, encouraging you to add more detail to your jewellery designs by using rivets that are more decorative than a simple hammered piece of wire. This time we're going to learn how to make and use more than one pin on the back of a decorative rivet. It's a little more fiddly than using just a single decorative rivet, but I really do think that it's a skill worth mastering as it allows you to securely add a larger element to the front of your design, and too hold it at a precise angle.

I do recommend that you watch the first three riveting classes in the series as this class builds on the techniques covered there:

Riveting Part 1 - Simple Wire Rivets

Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets

Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets

I'm going to make a simple but beautiful necklace in the video to show you all the different steps. The top layer on my design is an oak leaf sawn from silver sheet and I'm going to rivet it onto a wooden bead. However you could use decorative rivets to layer copper onto brightly coloured acrylic, patterned pieces cut from a recycled biscuit tin or sandwich fabric or leather between layers of metal, as long as the decorative top of the rivet is made from a metal you can solder the rivet wires or pins onto. The only limit is your imagination and riveting is a great way of using upcycled materials!

Other classes in the series will take you through simple wire rivets and also how to make rivets from tube. More videos with extra projects to help you practice your new skills will then follow!

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Transcripts

1. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets: Hello, My name's John Tinley. I'm a joy designer and shooter from the South First UK. Welcome to the fourth class in my Siri's riveting techniques. So far I've taught you had to make and use one standard, simple why of it? How to plant design that when you need more than one with it, perhaps to hold a design, a particular angle and how to make and use a decorative of it. This class will build on those skills. If you haven't really watch the 1st 3 classes in Siris, I do recommend something will help you. However, this time I'm going to teach you how to adapt your work when you have to. Rivets soldiered on to the back of a design I to decorative minutes among piece of silver. You would want to use this technique when you have a design that you wanted to hold at a particular angle on a background that you can't sold onto on that staircase in the projections are designed for this chance. I have silver oak leaf, the type textured that I want to hold onto a wooden beads as a particular angle towards abortion of beans to turn it into a lovely necklace as we're focusing our riveting techniques in Siris rather soaring techniques. I'm not going to go through with you how to sort out the silver oak leaf, although it just so happens that I have a class that goes through how to sort this exact shape and how to give it is a lovely texture. So I will link to that class in the description I would also on a downloadable pdf full of hints and tips to help you get your soaring as smooth and efficient and accurate as possible. However, we're going to be concentrating on the deputy of its in this class, so that here started, I have been looking for the materials and equipment that you're going to need. 2. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - materials: the's of the materials I'm going to use to make the project for this third riveting class on. Remember that in this class we're going to be doing to decorative rivets. So I'm going to have to rivets on the back off the silver oak leaf that you can see here on . Both of those rivets are going to be sweated through the wooden bead to hold the oakleaf at a precise angle and to hold it firmly and securely. I've cut the silver oak leaf form no 0.7 millimeter study, so a sheet on dive texted it to give the impression off the veins of the lines that run across a relief. I'm not going to be going through how to sort the silverleaf out and how to put the texture on the top of it. As I want to really focus on the riveting techniques in this series of classes, However, I will put in the class description information about another class where you can find out how to cut and texture this silver oak leaf. Andi I will also attach a template for the oak leaf to this class as well. The beads that I've chosen for the project has got a lovely wide working area, so it's big enough for the oak leaf to fit onto it comfortably without the holes for the river. It's affecting the whole that runs through the pendant. Remember that although the silver oak leafless I'm using has to be either silver or copper of you re wanted to gold so that I can soldier the rivets onto the back of it. The materials it fixes onto the rivets through can be virtually anything I'm using. Wouldn't beat. You could use a piece off beautifully colored acrylic sheet, a piece of aluminium. But remember that you can get aluminium in, died in lots of beautiful colors, a piece of leather. You could lay out more than one thing together. The only limit really is your imagination. So I'm hoping that he'll take the techniques I'll show you in this class and then adapt into the materials that you've got. I've got a real of not 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge sterling silver wire. I'm going to use that not only to form the rivets that they're going to hold the Oakley from place on the bead, but also to go throw the bead with rapt loops. Is either side beat to turn the beat into a pendant? I've also got a 16 inch sunny silver traced Shane. I'm going to use that to finish off the jewelry to turn the riveters Oakley feed into a necklace. I particularly like this chain because the links on it are big enough for me to be able to pass no 0.8 millimeter wife through it. So do make sure that the chain that you choose can pass a no 0.8 millimeter piece of wire through it. Or, alternatively, use a different gauge of wire to thread through the bead to attach onto the chain. Alternatively, you could use a piece of leather or piece of ribbon or piece of silk to finish off the nexus instead. 3. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - equipment: These are the tools that you're going to need to make the Oakley dependent. The project. The second decorative, riveting class I catch the oakleaf out of selling silver sheet, using the jurors sore on our supported toothy silver sheet on the bench. Paige on the apron underneath, courts the dust as I was soaring so that could be sent for cycling. Remember, I'm not going to be covering the techniques that you need for soaring out off any metal sheet in this Frances were purely will be focusing on the riveting techniques. However, I will link to other classes that will help you with this technique. I do remember to download the hints and tips sheets that will help you with this technique as well. I'm going to use a Sharpie to mark on the wooden bead where I want to drill. The holes that we're going to hold the oakleaf in place on the holes of cells are going to be drilled with my bench drill. I'm going to use a no 0.8 millimeter job. It as the why that I'm going to use to form the rivets is no 0.8 millimeters, and it's important to the whole on the rivet are exactly the same size. I'm going to use the magic Scotch tape to hold the oakleaf onto the wooden bead to help work out where to put the rivets. I'm going to use the ruler, Andi, the wire cutters to cut off the length of 0 00.8 millimeter. Why, that's I'm going to use the rivets and I'll use a needle file to file the ends of the rivets. Nice and smooth before I saw them in place. Want See Rivets Association place on the back of the oak leaf. I'm then going to thread them through the holes in the wooden beat. Andi, I'll use the riveting hammer to finish off the rivet on the other side of the bead. Whilst I do that, I'm going to support the bead on hard rubber block. I'm going to support the work on that rather than the steel block that she saw me use in the first riveting class because the steel block would damage the texture on the front off the oakleaf and I don't office. You want that to happen, so the hard rubber block is a good compromise. It's the hardest surface. I've got to support the work, but it's soft enough and smooth enough that it's not going to cause any damage. The oakleaf The rest of the tools that you can see here are to help me finish off a piece of jewelry to turn the wooden breed with the oak leaf into a lovely necklace. I'm going to use the wire cutters around those pliers. The flat nose pliers on the 900 applies to help me prepare the wrapped loops that are going to help me to attach a chain to either end off the wooden bead to tie it into a necklace. Although finishing off the rivets is a cold connection, there's no heat required to finish off the rivets so you can rub it together sections or layers of a piece of jewelry that can't stand the heat from the blowtorch to actually form the decorative rivets in the first place. You do need to do some soldering, so we're going to have a look at the soldier equipment that you're going to need next 4. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - soldering equipment: I think this is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, Everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier, move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans. Since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - preparing the rivets 1: e no. Want to drill a couple holes in the wooden beads for the two rivets to pass through so that the oakleaf can be held at that kind of angle on beat? Andi, I've also chosen which side of the meat I wanted to use decided over the slightly darker site. Andi might just be able to see that I've used a use a Sharpie to mark the line here on another one there on that, showing me whether the whole that's so true food. The bead actually is on, and I'm going to have the bead this way up Wise aren't going to go to the whole Andi because the hold is off center. The bead will hang down nice. It'll be weighted down with, especially once. It's got the silver bead on there. So silver oak leaf on there. That's when former really nice pendant. Now, when I've show his house before. In the 1st 3 classes, I taped the silver on top of the wooden beads that I was using or beads in case Sir of the first fast with E, a pair of earrings on Die drilled through our silver on the wooden bead at the same time, however, I don't want the holes to be Sienna won't go through. The oak leaf is. Why won't the Oakley to be nice, smooth and clean on for it almost looked as if it's like magic that it's held on top of the wooden bead. Not until you look at the back concealer to revert pins that you can see how it's held on. So I want to just drill two holes in the wooden beat. Andi, I want to make sure that they are in exactly the right places. No point telling hold down there and one there. And really high sea when the oakleaf isn't going to cover those two holes on bay isn't at the angle that I wanted it to bay. I'm also then going to use those holes of the guide as to where to put the rivet pins on the salt, um, onto the back of the oakleaf. So I'm going to mark with my Sharpie on here. And don't worry, although it's up potently permanent marker. The fish on this wouldn't be too so nice and glossy. That's just a quick wipe with a baby. Wipe is going to get the marks off. So it's a says every put the marks to show where the holes are in the beads just to make sure that I don't interfere with those holes. Andi, I'm just going to have a play about a little bit. Andi, position this oakleaf, like if I wanted to say I'm going to do is Mark. Whoops, Mark. They're on the side of the bait. Checking that mark has come up a house on hold. Everything still Onda a marking just son Hamlet on marking is the two ends of that stem that runs down the middle of the oakleaf. So now I can move back out the way. Andi, join him up. Okay, so she had to see that shining in the light, some of the light around. So that is the line that stoner leads back. Hans isn't your eye out? Do you like these nice find nips? But they do dry out quite quickly, but thankfully, we're used to him just a scribble on a piece of paper and then comes back. Have held that position again. I'm going to do is drill two holes along this line. I'm going to make sure that they're not too close. So the edge of the beach, you're those two hosts with the drill with my no 0.8 millimeter job It, Andi, those going with holes that the rivets are going to go throws. We'll show you that next on. Then the state after that is going to be showing you how I use those holes as a guide to mark where to solder the rivets onto the back of the oakleaf set up the bench drill. Andi, I've got the wooden bead resting on the rough bit of wood here so that you're gonna go through the weekend beat and get that we can see the hallways is we're going here. So I'm going to do, though is I need to make sure that the holes are exactly the right place. So before I drill each one, I'm just going to bring down the drill bit and just make sure it's lined up properly. - Is one two hosts enter? Here we go. We'll see them if I hold it like them, like having said I was going to do ever so carefully and lineups everything nice and I turned the job. It's on child care of the drill on and nearly just went for it and remind myself in turning off again. So those are the holes that the rivets are going to go through in the next section of class . I'm going to show you how I use that, the template marking out 20 soda on the back of the oak leaf. 6. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - preparing the rivets 2: I've used a pen mark since I put on earlier to line up the oakleaf ago. There wouldn't be doing this time. I've used magic Scotch tape just to hold it in place on have also taken the your 0.8 millimeter drill bit out of the bench. Trial was I'm going to do now is go through from the other side on and family twist the drill bit up against the silver to mark the silver. Now, if this was a much thinner piece material, then I could just use maybe Sharpie for its right now. I think that is about the right size to go through these holes. We just used a Sharpie to put a mark there. Oh, if I had a long piece of seals that would fight size, I could push that. So just something to mark the back of the oakleaf, but because it's quite a a sick thing. The job. It is really a horse I've got that will fit. So I know if it through the hole because it draws the hole in the first place. So pushing it through will push on the Oakley foot back, so everything's hard up against it and just twist firmly, there's no risk of going all the way through the silver. I'd have to be twisting away there for a long, long time. To be able to do that as it is or I'm going to be pushing in is a quite a faint mark. But it will be enough on this one. I should put the tape over this whole go to the tape first. No special and again just twist Moses, even just a very faint mark. It will still be enough. I should do it. I'm just going to take the tape off at one end. Just lift it up gently. So have a look. Yes, I can see two marks there. You have to see them as I move it about. And in the light one there. Someone there sort of done is used the holes in the wood as a template to mark on the back of the silver oak leaf where I want the rivets to be soldered onto. So the stage is going to be soldering the rivets into place on the oakleaf. So I have to decorative rivets on the back of this toe. Hold it. Security at them. Light angle on wooden bead. I take this off and head over to the soldering table 7. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - soldering: I thought the oak leaf over to soldering blocks. I pushed upside down so that the texture is definitely bottom. Andi, hopefully see, they're on their the two marks that I busy drilled into the back of the oak leaf that show me where to put the rivets on. I've got one two pieces of about 12. 13 millimeters of no 130.8 or 20 gauge. Stunning silver wire. Andi, that is going to be enough. Why? To form the rivets on. I've also got a bit harder to see. One, two pieces off. Easy, soldier. Well, im going to sold out one on each end off the rivets. Now, if you're still learning how to solder on and you're still building up confidence with your solving skills, you might want to put medium solder on the bottom off the first rivet you going silver in place and easy solder onto the bottom of the second. Andi, that way you have a little bit more confidence that when you melt the solder for the second rivet, you're not going to re melt the soldier on the first thing. Cause it for over. However, with more experience, you will get to see more clearly, more quickly, the signs as to when the soldier has run and your reaction time will get faster. And all of that will help you to move the flame away from your work before the first soldier has a chance to re mount. So I'm going to move one of the pieces aware first on that you want that I should said, Is that actually filed? One end off each rivet? Eso that I am putting a nice flat end of wire on here On day or so. The drilled little holes are actually going to help me to feel where the river it should be should be able to fit into a dick pretty hard. But hold everything steady. Andi will also help form a stronger soldier. Join because the wife is going to be sitting down inside a little dip. So if you put marks with a Sharpie or just scratch a couple of little dots, you might actually want to deliberately still take a no 0.8 millimeter Drillbit on and carve a little. Dip it into the back of the oakleaf for the stuff fittings or side the rivets, which are essentially bigger longer stuck fittings onto the back of the oak leaf. So I've got flux just started. Shut the cameras. I'm dipping the first wire into the flux and hold it onto the bottom. So hold it against that piece of solder. I'm not. So lunch the bottom. Okay, so soldiers flow nicely on there. Andi, I'm trying to use the bare minimum motor soldier. I don't want any excess older building up around the bottom of the river. It because that would prevent the rivet from sitting nice and tightly up against that wouldn't beat. So it's gonna make sure happy with how have things positioned. So But first, you can see what I'm doing. Onda. Perhaps a little bit more importantly, I can hold everything safely without my home getting too hot. So I'm happy with that. I'm going to hold that rivet out of the way. So I practiced what I wanted to be a split tip my hand out the waste slightly so I could go bring it back in around you too. But hold it out at the moment because you oakleaf most of Lee speaking is ah, bigger piece of silver. So we need to put more heat into that south Seattle observations Hearing on that silver oak leaf, we have a reddish change. Momentous, this building up temperature in I see. Put that rivet back in a bit more heat little bit of feet into tweeters. Join heat away. We got so hoping you saw a flush old liquid silver as a soldier float round at the bottom. So that's the first rivet securely in place. So put the torch down so I can pick up a second. Ribbit. I'm going to dip set in the flux as well. That's the second piece of soldier nearly lost that melt that onto the bottom off ribbit for the flux bubbling up there and I didn't quite get Silvana. There we go. That's special. So let's take this slowly C. C or time doing on. And that's where I want the second rivet. Teoh, Where to go Quite nicely. Settled habits you could s over. Drilled into the back of the oak leaf. They're still visible, even though the oakleaf is covered in oxidation from the copper. In that it's in a stunning silver. Such why I wanted to go tip my hand out the way I'm going to keep a careful eye on the first rivet to make sure that sort of that me melt so it takes so long to heat up. This time, it's still holding some residual heat. From what I did the first soldier join put us in price. Here we go. As soon as the second soldier joy I had taken, I took the heat away and then turned it off. By the way, always put your torch on and off when it's pointing somewhere fireproof but not pointing at your work, because everyone's tendency touchy, hold their talks. Still, when you turn it off so it's still in your work. You're going to be holding it in one place for too long on, although it's surprising how long you can keep the torch on your silver. You can only do that if you keep the torch movie, so this now needs to go in the quench pot in the pickle Proctor cleanup on. Then I'm going to put it in the tumble politics share to get a nice a polished finish on that oakleaf because obviously I'm not going to be on to polish it once it's riveted in place, or the wooden bead 8. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - finishing the rivets: the cliff is now. It's a tumble publisher, lovely and shiny and still see the texture of the top on and off for two pins was going to form the rivets soldiers onto the back oakleaf there. Andi. It's almost time to assemble everything but the oak leaf on the wooden beat. However, I have noticed that on that, Rivet said, there is a little bit of excess soldier. And if you've watched the first decorative reversing class, which I hope you have, because it will help you with this one, then you'll know that a little bit of access solder is a bit of an issue that we need to sort out because it prevents the decorative rivet from sitting flush or much of your solving. So I would have your riveting, not soldering, have your riveting it on top hole because, yes, a soldier we're going to be able to fit into the hole that you drill was because I know I said it before. But the Holy Jill has to be the same diameter as the bees. There's no extra room there for any extra soldier, so I've got a needle file on, just like any other decorative, riveting class. It's my direct fire, which is a tapered, its I triangular at the black and its safety about There's no teeth on the back. So what I can do is coming the on the back asi oakleaf on safely file away the excess soda without worrying about filing up against the the river itself. Earned weakening that well that happens like just use a little bit too much solder on that Move it. It doesn't matter. Some putting far marks in here because I'm not going to see them. We'll see what Cliff is on the written page That should do it because it's so It's not very much so. What I need to do now is put those through now before you put him through the holes is the worst double checking that your rivet pins are actual right angles to the direction of effort you soldier them onto because if they're not one of them or it's going or maybe both of them are going up a bit of funny angles, they're not going to fit through those holes because remember, we lined everything up really carefully, so the easiest were so venous. It's to get either power flat nose pliers or Niland your applies, and just carefully make sure that it is. The river pins are sitting at the right angle on, by the way. That's also a good test of your soldiers going to make sure that so joins are nice and secure. If the worst happens on bond, what is those Pins Witter to snap off with me. That solder hadn't flowed properly. Down at the bottom or you have to do is to go back to Soviet station on and resolve it in place. You might have to file off any excess soldiers have behind First of absentee, inhibit the flow of your new solder. But it's not too difficult to go back and just sold everything back in place again. When I would see me do that on other video classes, I'm sure, but once everything's lined up, shoot. There we go. I would go lovely. That went through really nicely. So that is giving your better idea off what my pendant is going to look like. So the next job is to trim off those rivet pins because they're far too long at the moment . Andi again, I know so this before. But it's worth repeating just inclusive misfits on previous class, and there were different methods of working out. How much silver to leave on the river is, and how much should trim off. Microphone method is to use a very fine sharply on. And so I'm going to do now. Just get out of it. Just use the Sharpie right down. That's the bottom of the pin going to put line The Medicis I darker line on going to do the same on this one's wellness were due to both the same times about the same job doing on that. I can't about those lines. That is really all that is needed or see why that's needed. All you need is just to be on to hammer out, spread out a little bit of white top, and it won't be hard to go back through that hole. Other Masters people like to use this yet a piece of thing card after playing college, because a hole in it Britain over the rivet and hold the wire cutters flush up against that card. On that cards wits will be enough wire to fool the other side. The rivet migrate to bring the camera down at a lower angle now so that you can see the next steps a little bit more clearly. But this angle, you should be able to see me finishing off the rivets of a bit more clearly but fascinating to do. It's just used the wire cutters to trim off those excess pieces wire. So it's one. You can see the difference. You see just a doctor. So over there and so so a stem there, one on bond to So I know what I'm going to do is hammer on top of each one. It has taken a bit more hammering than the silver flowers on the earrings did. If you've watched the first riveting cross because I supported those on the steel bench block on because he has a really hard behind thumb it around the action here to have a little bit more impact, I'm still going to be able to rivet the's. No problems spread the top south and spreader of it sound indulgence. They can't go to the hole is just going to take a little bit more effort than it would if it was still block. But it's worth it because the steel block, which damage it's up very carefully so it doesn't fall apart. Remember, the rivets are finished. It would damage that textures I put on the front off the cliff. I really don't want to do that. So I'm going to start hammering now. To say one at a time has spread out the tops of those rivets. Remember, that's what's happening. Is such the metal? Espero, edging out at right angles to the head of the hammer, says. I hammer like that. There were spreading out that way. So I turn around. It's going to spread out in different directions and enlarge that top of the rivet a long time. I'm pressing down on this rubber block so that the oak leaf is being pressed up against the wooden beat. Isn't any wiggle room okay now, which I'm hoping I hope he have my fingers crossed here that as I lift it up, there we go. The oakleaf can't actually four out now that first rivets being done is enough to hold it securely on the wooden bead on the whole point. Remember, having a second rivet there is that it holds this oakleaf at precisely. Groups have precise the the angle that I wanted to for my design. So and finish off this second rivet head now up. - Okay , so that is now held on. That's no wriggling, a tool that's really nice, tight fit. Basic here. However, as I move my fingers across the rivets, they're a little bit scratchy on Daz. This is going too dependent on the back of this is going to be worn properly. That's the skin. I don't want them to be scratching. So that's where the second rivet head comes. And remember, you can use this were preparing simple, wide rivets to help mushroom the top of the while out a little bit. But you can also do the same on the back of rivets and just spread it has to smooth it out . So it's nicely, um, smooth and scratches national flush with whatever you're riveting together, some hammering. I'm not just hammering in one place and try to hammer Mr around the outside the rivet. He doesn't look like very much movement to talk because of it so small, but that's trying t o. Again, this one. I'm happy with that. So that now I just need to be turned into a necklace by means of a piece of wire going through the holes in the beat on attaching onto a chain. 9. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - finishing the necklace: I've got three separate items I need to put together to turn my lovely oak leaf in. It wouldn't be into a necklace. So off you got the wooden bead itself. I've got a 16 inch say so, a trace chain that Cygnus er are cut in half. Andi, I want one end of that change to go to each side of the beach. I'm going to hold it place by means off a thinks of no 0.8 millimeters. Say so why I'm going to turn a rupture loop at either side of the beach with the chain while into the chain attached to interrupt Group. Now, if you're not already confident with turning wrapped loops and do download the photo tutorial that I've attached, the class that would take you through everything step by step are cut about 12 centimeters of the North 120.8 millimeter. A 20 gauge wire on Daz. My bead is about 2.5 centimeters across. That's going to be plenty of why to go through the beat and for a rap group at either side , so revised its house the way the moment going to hold the wire quite close to tip supplies because I want to turn a very small loop. Remember, close the tips. A smaller there was going to be. I've gone maybe a couple centimeters down the down the wire and use my some just to turn the wire. That's almost a right angle. Moves applies there, sitting up with the top, so I can then use my finger and thumb to put the wall up over the pliers down the other side and then take the wire across. So what? We're all way round. No supplies on back across itself. So it's like to know he's use the flat, no supplies, which you're going to leave less of a mark on the wire hug, any mark tour. It's just lift. Uh oh. So I can carefree threat on Americans. See this so well when the cameras not watching over gay right on one half of the chain and then close that down. What I'm going to do is hold everything in the pliers. I start to twist that why around the stone on some going to do is use the round nose pliers to get a good grip so that I can twist it. Whips Maybe not that good a grip supports everything out of my hands. Just cert Pool's the UAE around just a couple of times. That's what's needed. I don't want to go more around more than a couple of times. If I do that the wire this country seeking for months, I'd be just going to be that longer. Some scanty trim off. He access there. Andi, remember that Even that time you were to be doesn't going to go to waste. Type it of why I wasn't going to go to waste going to my scrap parts and get used for something else. So just going to double check. I've touched this chain onto this little while into the past, the chain that hasn't got the clasp attached to it. And because I'm right handed, I always like toe have the class on the right. I find it easier. So I'm just made sure that that sections I've just done, I undo the class. What? You sit more easily. That hasn't got class bonnets that is on the left, which for me, being a right handed person makes it easier. So what do you do now? Start to get an idea of how that's going to look. What I need to do now is put the rap group on the other side. So what we're going to do on this side is hoat the pliers tight up against the beat again. Turn the wire and the wire over so it's about it's a right angle. I'm betting the wind up over down the other side earned across itself quite often. Have some was. Lift the wire across the wooden beads because that gets in the way. So loop on and going to get the other and chain on and put that loops. There we go across the why, so that's no in place now. The reason why I'm doing wraps loops. It keeps opening us up a little bit more so chain comfortable. That's better. Reason doing rap loops is that by wrapping up the wire around stem, it's going to make sure the chain can't slip off. So so that change out the waste and ripping across that with apply. So don't do it any good, because this end of the wire is longer. It's ah, long enough for me to grip with my fingers and pull that around so from that tough. Sometimes you can't cut all the way through because the cutters can't get in a tight space . But also, you start catching, then Wiegel the wire back of force to finish tough. So that piece of wire is is love enough to make maybe a short head pain was maybe even if I us me, the town's my belonging up for a sore ear. Why? So I always prefer to work with a longer piece of wire that I know this I need because it's just easier to handle. And I know I keep saying the bits I cut off is not going to waste so chained up again. And as you can see, another pendant nicely finished on, ready to wear. 10. Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets - final thoughts: e. I hope that the classes in the series so far he's showing you just how versatile habits are on that. This class, in particular, has shown just how useful decorative rivets are and how lovely they bay. They're still class as a cold connector, as although soldering is required to prepare the rivet. No heat is needed to join the layers of the piece of jewelry together, as in more than one rivet pin to the back of a piece of silver definitely doesn't make design little bit more fiddly to put together by re through think it is worth it. Are we looking forward to seeing what projects you come up with on what you confined to rivet together? If you're anything like me, you're going have quanta stock of different materials and beads and so on that you could use Thank you for watching on, and I look forward to seeing you back for some more classes about riveting