Reticulated Star Pendant | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare
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11 Lessons (1h 16m)
    • 1. Reticulated Star Pendant - learn how to texture silver with your blowtorch

      3:03
    • 2. Reticulated Star Pendant - materials

      1:16
    • 3. Reticulated Star Pendant - equipment

      2:20
    • 4. Reticulated Star Pendant - soldering equipment

      5:15
    • 5. Reticulated Star Pendant - depleting the silver

      18:42
    • 6. Reticulated Star Pendant - reticulating the silver 2

      12:48
    • 7. Reticulated Star Pendant - sawing the star

      12:11
    • 8. Reticulated Star Pendant - filing

      7:02
    • 9. Reticulated Star Pendant - soldering the bail

      5:32
    • 10. Reticulated Star Pendant - burnishing

      4:49
    • 11. Reticulated Star Pendant - final thoughts

      3:24

About This Class

Learn how to texture silver using your blowtorch! Smooth shiny silver is beautiful, using a rolling mill or hammers to add patterns to your silver is lots of fun - but have you tried using a blowtorch to create a random rippled effect across your silver?

Reticulated patterns are great fun to produce as you can never be quite sure what you're going to get! The technique essentially requires you to melt the surface of the silver and allow it to cool down again, but the key is in the preparation of the surface. This class will take you through everything you need to know, and as I've used my piece of reticulated sheet to create a simple dainty star pendant I will also give you a refresher on sawing techniques.

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The Reticulated Star Pendant class is part of a series on Intermediate Silversmithing. As you progress through the series I will help you build on the skills covered in the Silversmithing for Beginners series, encouraging you to create more complex projects. I will always take you through everything you need step by step, and include troubleshooting sections where appropriate too. We will be covering soldering, various methods of stone setting, etching and more. This class is an intermediate class as it assumes that you already have good torch control and have soldering experience.

Transcripts

1. Reticulated Star Pendant - learn how to texture silver with your blowtorch: Hello, My name's John Tinley. I'm a George designer and tutor from South Coast UK on Welcome to Articulate a star pendant In each video class, I not only like to show you how to make a new, lovely piece of jewelry, but I also like to go through 12 skills and techniques as well. After all, enjoy making. There is so much to learn, and in this class, as I expect, you guessed from the title of the videos In this class, we're going to be focusing on technique. Articulation are the words. Articulate means net like On refers to a surface pattern off veins or lines or pipes criss crossing back across each other in a very random pattern on ditches that these very randomness that appeals To many silversmiths, Andi is a complete contrast to a beautiful, smooth, polished surface of combination to can produce beautiful results have in this class. We're just going to be focusing on the texture and using that the key to creating an effective, particularly to silver surface is in the preparation. So you're going to see quite a bit of class focusing on match because it's really important to get it done properly. The preparation process isn't difficult on, and in fact you already had a go. It'd every time that you have a Neil your silver, but it is important we get it right, so I'll take you through it on. Here is many hints and tips as I can Have you ever seen? I'm going to be using my piece of articulated silver cut out a lovely, dainty five point star pendant. So this class is also an opportunity for you to find you your soaring skills. The reason why I am being a reticulated surface to a knowledge, a piece of silver sheet on, then cutting a star out, 12 Kuttner star first and then articulating it is that it will allow me to choose the best part of the sheet for my star, the part of sheets that has produced the textures I really like the best. The other reason is that I want to my start to have a very defined lines and try to find points to it. If you read, articulate a certain shape, then usually articulation process around the edges out on. Di didn't want that for my particular design, so if you are ready. Let's have a look at the equipment and materials that we're going to need. I get to work. 2. Reticulated Star Pendant - materials: the's materials I'm going to need to make her articulated star pendant. As you can see, there's not very much here, but it's still going to make something lovely. The piece of signs of a sheet says I've got here is the last piece left over from quite a big piece of 20 gauge or not 200.8 millimeters saying silver sheet it is four centimeters tall. Onda, at its narrowest point, is about two centimeters across, so it's got plenty in there for what I want to do. I would not recommend using anything thinner than 20 gauge or no point H millimeters for articulation, because with a thinks dinner than that, you basically haven't got enough material to play with. You are actually more likely to melt holes in the middle of the sheet than you are to move the surface the silver, which is what we want to do. I've also got a shorter length of No. 28 millimeter staying silver wires rescue for my scrap pot on. That's going to be big enough. It's just under four centimeters long, and that's going to be plenty big enough to make a small bail to soldier on the back of dependent 3. Reticulated Star Pendant - equipment: This is the equipment that we're going to need to make the reticulated stop pendant after a piece of sheet has being articulated to give it that lovely, organic, quite unpredictable texture. I'm going to stick a template of a star on top of the sheet. Aren't going to use the blue plastic sticker maker that you can see here to do that? I'll show you how to use that in a moment. If you haven't seen one in action before, and then going to use my curious sore to saw the star shape out ongoing support. Silver on the bench pack as I work and I've got the leather apron underneath to catch the silver dust. And it's a scrap silver that all going to end up on the scrap parts. They be recycled. Italy State. I'm going to use my needle files to refine the shape Onda smoothed off the edges on also to take the sharpness off the very tips of the points of the star. So it turns into a very comfortable pendant toe wear with no really sharp points. I'm going to continue to smoothed off the edges. The star with the emery paper you see here? I've got three great of Emery paper. I've got 240 grit, 501,200. I went it A re night contrast between the quite rough surface that we're going to create with the articulation A nice, bright, crisp ages of the star. So where's used to burnish of? You can see here just on the edges of the star to make some shine, give a little bit more polish. The last two tools you can see here are wire cutters Onda around those pliers. I'm going to use those to shape the bail out of the North 20.8 millimeter. Why? I'm going to soldier on to the back of dependent as this is a solving project. We're also going to have a look at the Soviet equipment that you were needed to complete dependent 4. Reticulated Star Pendant - soldering equipment: thing is the soldier equipment that I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks or soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap until with that, Um, and they form nice of my balls has, I mean used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here, and I've also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I use in combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's You ting, the red handled snips. As I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder start. I can't tell which melting temperature they are. The more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi The paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work, so he was also available in a paste form, its ground up soldier that's already mixed with a flux, so you don't need a separate flux. In fact, if you were toe adds the yellow Fluxus, I showed you it would stop this soldier pace from working properly. It's most commonly available in syringes with small tips that she can see here. You can also buy it in tubs and pots, just like with the traditional sticks or strips of soldier, so the pace is available in three different melting temperatures. Easy, medium and hard. I've just got easy and medium here. The easy is the one that's 268 degrees. Sent rate for amount in 10 pressure. The medium is 732. Recent weight, As you can tell, the easy soldier paste, is a favorite newer than the medium soldier paste. When you have a new syringe, it's best to pull back on the plunger after you finished using it. Otherwise, the soldier pace going to continue to snake out of the tip a little bit, and you don't want to waste it because this is actually the most expensive way of buying soldier. I like to use the solder paste on projects like chains on, and also holly beads sometimes might use it on sucking rings if I'm in a bit of a hurry because one of the advantages sort of place is that the soldier usually stays exactly where you want it to be. Unlike the sort of Italians that can jump off as you start to heat the metal up, small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas butane gas that you use to refill cigarette lighter at the back of a picture, you can see a slow cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution go to safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to four cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers, not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and last, but definitely not least our home safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes look after 5. Reticulated Star Pendant - depleting the silver: the first stage each in preparing the silver for articulation is deplete the copper from surface status. Take the copper out of the surface of the silver. This is going to result in a sheet of silver that's got a different to make up on the surface than it has actually in the core. Is going to have a finer silver surface. Onda core. This is still got her high copper content. It is still sterling silver. This means that we're going to end up with a sheet of metal that has two different melting temperatures. The sterling silver inside has got a lower melting temperature than the fine silver that we're going to have left on the outside, and it's that difference in melting temperatures that's going to cause the articulation. However, we watch a little bit of work to do to get to that stage. What we're going to have to do is repeatedly heat, quench and pickle. I go through that process 10 to 12 times to remove more more copper from the surface of silver. So I've got the silver set up on Saudi Rex. I've got my quench parched put silver in. I've got the reverse action trees is says, I complete silver up safely. Onda What? Brass tweezers to put the work in and out off the pickle and pop back here because remember putting steel in the pickle with everything Faris. So anything that contains iron in the pickle reverses the procedure that the pickle usually carries out. And so the pickle taking copper off the surface and holdings in solution. It would come out of solution back onto the surface of the silver. And as we're gonna be working so hard to remove the copper from the surface, we definitely don't want to add more to it accidentally. They do make sure that you use either brass or plastic tweeters to take your work in and out of the pickle. So going to move these asked the way. So just just three pieces. Soldier. There definitely don't want that their thio, of course problems. I'm just going to be using small blow talk shouldn't use a big one because it is still quite a a small piece of silver. I'm basically going to be heating up until pretty close to a kneeling temperature, so not as high solving turn creature. But I'm gonna heat up until there is a nice bloom of oxygen ization on the surface here. So it's enough copper oxides for the pickle to remove from the surface. I've made sure, by the way, that the pickle is is nice and warm, because I wanted to remove the copper oxides very quickly. So I'm not hanging around and waiting. What I do is show you the first couple times I'm heated up, but I will speed up the film a little bit so you don't have to go through the whole waiting for the pickle to clean up 10 to 12 times. It can take quite a while, but it's worth doing for the results, and we will come a little bit closer so he can see in more detail what I'm doing. That's its over heated up the first time a C as you can see that a nice bloom of oxygen ization there, especially if I am. This is a piece of silver that's the same colors. This Waas piece of silver that bean heated up. A tall yet see in C from the contrast says nice bloom of oxidation, so of a pet cut in the the quench port so that no using the brass tweets is this out of size, the film of which outside the cameras your pop that in the pickle almost that's cleaning up . Not in the most exciting view there, but while such cleaning up and tell you that I'm basically to repeat that process again and again on each time there's going to be less oxidation because eventually less copper to remove from the surface. But I want to keep going until the silver has got to be fulcrum paper white. Finish to it when it comes. Asked the pickle. There's no hint. Fox ization a tool because nice and warm, so hopefully such cleaned up just like to give it another rings just to get the pickle off it. But you can see that screamed up again. There's something else that I like to do. Please just give the silver a dry to make sure you see drying it are moving the water. If I don't do that, if I dry the water off with the flame instead because the water isn't pure, it's a silver put in and out of it, so it's actually got a little bit dirty. It was impurities in it that will leave marks on the silver as the water dries off on as you go further through the process and your silver gets water and white owners less oxidation. Sometimes they've marks left on the silver by the water. You think there's still more organization than there actually is? So then heat this up again, not dry. - It was a good amount of heat in there, but there's not as much oxygen ization this time. By the way, I allow the silver to air dry a little bit before I put it in the pickle pot. That way, I am not fully a kneeling the piece each time. Remember that. Usually when you're heating a work up on your quenching it, you are also a kneeling. If you are making it softer toe work with, however, there is a possibility of over a kneeling your work eso to try and reduce that I let silver air dry until bitch, which is what I'm talking to you now. Before I pushed in the French parts so it doesn't fully Aneel. I go in a little bit of a hiss. I can go in again that's going to go in the people to think up. But this one time when I take it out, I'm going to give it a bit. Currents in the pick The pick sides quench pot between pickle off, but I'm not going to dry. It's you see, you can see what I mean about 30 marks that are left by the water. Let's see if it's cleaned off again. So nice and clean, so can just minced it. Haven't dried it for this time. You see what I mean about the dirty marks and see why I like to dry it. Usually the flames drawing at this time easy for you seasons so they can tell their most of the dirty marks are actually not from fox ization, the marks left by the impurities in the water. So not allowing me to really see what's the surface of silver looks like. So that is why I usually dry the silver after I have rinsed it clear. So that's in there. You can see some of those marks just being washed off by the water so into the pickle that goes. So the state I'm going to speed the film up a little bit. We've now has three heating czar the silver. It usually needs at least another 78 maybe nine. Heating is up after that just to make sure this is really is clean. So I've got a ZMA much of a difference between surface on the core of the Meshal as possible. This middle piece of silver has now bean heated up, quenched on pickled 10 times. Um, it's just fresh as the pickle again given to rinse in the quench pot bound dried it off. But I want to show you now what it looks like one of he set up. So you see how much oxidation I was right now? But I thought be useful if you to see. Um this piece is still for that. I showed you earlier so you could see how right to sell a reason he wants. This is a piece of staying silver. That doesn't mean he stopped tour yet, so I'm gonna heat us up now. See him. See the difference between a piece with lots of oxidation. The first time was being heated and how they seize now on this is a piece off fine silver. So when I heat this up, they won't be in York Citation tour. So you're about to see how white this is her paperwhite color because this is really quite clean out was fighting. It still needs a couple of goes on. And when you see that, how they're the color of this will help you about to say, but the difference Teaching up fresh piece So silver now see the oxides Asia hearing already revolt to the pieces I've been working on my anybody could tell in the the cameras I completely to my eye that has led to a bit darker from how it waas originally. And this is what this is the fine silver the heat top would take the Polish looker wearing , say, no optimization appearing the copper content that goes with quite a when I turned the torch off. Maybe he's a bit closer to get sh other Seacon really see the difference. Okay, so first I was being heated up Sterling silver, lots of optimization. So he basically taken this piece of silver from this very rare dark appearance toe How it is now. So virtually all of the copper well, vast majority the copper has bean taken out of the surface of this. So we have got a surface that is finer silver when still sterling silver inside the court. This is Sethi. The fine silver never been heats up before. Andi, this is actually still a little bit that white paper white finish. Then this is This has still got my eye a little bit of optimization, so but it's a a tinge of gray in it. So what we're going to do now is some quits, this one of them. Just leave it in the pickle pot. Sadiq the quench pot. So I know it's cool and safe enough away. Whoops. Quench that as well, and then invent Pop it in a pickle. A SE cough, a little bit of oxidation. I'm going who were pop that piece of fine silver in the quench pot. Well, my pickles, nice and hot. There's not much exercise ation to removes. It doesn't need to stay in the pickle pop of our long practice. Nice. A racist, nice and clean, but I'm going to give it a bit of a dry so I don't have the the dirty marks from the heat up water he's having evaporation dried off water. Should I show you one more trick? Because when the silver readers have very roadblocks ization left on it, it can be quite easy to overheat. The silver earned to it. A for Mattarella additional bitch, basically is the biggest problem. So one trick he most see me do before on pieces of silver that I went to a Neil instead. Jewel a sharply mark on when that markets will be burnt off. I've got to the right temperature. I'm going to use this now is the same kind of thing. So I'm going to stop heating up when that mark has a deorbit burn off. This piece should only need another 23 goes for you too. And another one for luck. And then we'll be ready. Okay, That mark has burnt off. Let it cool down a little bit, remember, we don't want to. I'm over a Neil Silver because it can She get her past being in the audience to being brittle. So I'm going to give that a couple more going toe over just for good luck. Good measure. Just to make sure that with self, the copies out of surface But that's so hasn't be bean in the pickle yet, but is still quite clean. But another couple just for good measure on bond. Then I'll show you what it looks like then, Onda, we start actually coming out the articulation process. 6. Reticulated Star Pendant - reticulating the silver 2: way now gone through the process of depleting the copper, Taking the copper out of the surface of the silver elaborates the sage where when I put the flame on silver and then take it off, this silver doesn't actually change. Other tools shake no change in the color of the silver. No organization appearing a tool. So I now know that I've got a piece of sheets This has got to different Malloy's a silver making that she topping that one. She top. So I got a core. This is still sterling Silver still got 7.5% copper in it. I've got a surface off as close as I compute. Really make it fine silver. So I've removed the vast majority of the copper that was in as much as I possibly can. So now we're piece of sheet where the core has got a lower melting temperature. What I'm going to do now is to heat the sheet up again or heat up the whole sheet on. Then I'm going to concentrate the flame in just one spot, which I don't usually do usually are going on about how you can keep the flame on your work for quite some time as not Would you keep moving? But this time I'm deliberately going to hold a flame in one spot so I start to melt the metal. But because the core has got lower mounting temperatures to call, this is going to melt before surface. What this means is that as I then remove the hate or move the heat some to a different part of the sheet, the core is going to go a bit more solid. It's going to contract. On the surface. That fine silver surface is going to distort. Andi form wrinkles. I can't predict whether I'm going to get lots of wrinkled or when, whether it's going to be very even. Pastoral. Where cross Whether I'm going to get a A couple of spots sit are going to become more wrinkled. But one thing I'm going to do but its hold see the blowtorch. Atmore often angle. I find that gets a nice results by using inflamed with blow the silver across on the way. I like sex painting classes is if you imagine that you have got a straw and you're using the straw to blow just across the surface of a glass of water and you get wrinkles appear in the ripples in the surface of the water. Similar idea, which is overflowing down a straw. I'm going to get the flame to blow up the blowtorch and push the silver across. But the first thing again to see is if he's the silver up is brighter patches. By the time we finished, we should have a realized wrinkled piece of silver articulated piece silver without surface distortion. Um, on and it will be very much oxidized. The fine silver in this sterling silver will have mixed up again as the surface moves about . It will break apart a little bit and allow the copper content the so silver comes through to the top. So it will be very much oxidized by the end of it. So let's get going on and see what articulation we get to the end. Just beat seeing everything up generally trying to even the heat the whole piece, like the secret of a reddish change now. So I'm going to do concentrate my flame on the widest parts. Just sit right. Okay. See the right in the snow to move that about. - You're seeing a silver very red when I take the heat away from a patch. Sees optimization does well, which we didn't have before. - See this patch going but brighter again, spreading Going to Syria where I haven't worked yet See the politeness for writing out across. - That's a nice touch there heating up. I'm taking a flame away for that. Cool down a bit to allow the Brinkley and contraction at the chop machines. Okay, going to leave it like that? You can see the color changes, losing its readiness. It's cooling down already. Now she also such a brick hers off. See, a little bit of flux may be left on the brick, and that's, uh, sticking the piece of silver temporarily to the surface, so we'll leave it to cool down. I'm leaving it to air. Cool. Rather surprising it off and quenching it because, remember, I don't want to really Neil it too much more. I don't want it to go much softer, so I can we see this A nice pattern ized rippling trip tickly Nice here. Do like that patch, but it's got a great, uneven surface now, so I'm going to leave that cool down Quinn Church. Make sure it is completely cool before pretty into the pickle. And in the pickle, this oxygen ization will be removed. 7. Reticulated Star Pendant - sawing the star: So Silver has now being cleaned up in the pickles for the dirty oxides that you saw after the articulation processes finished Havel being cleaned up on bond they find Move this about in the light. We have a shipyard to catch the texture that's on it now. You can certainly see on the back that it's no longer I Su's pieces, silver wriggled and buck up younger, back as well. But the front has got a really nice texture, especially in that section up there. I like that bit. So I actually don't use that bit. Made me to cut my star pendant out off and save the rest of it for something else. So off comes the star or printed Rather star. After he's got my sense, it's through 100 stick a maker. I put it through there. That was the case of on the back Turnstone interest the sticker just now, going to place that to do so so that the nice expect of its like Paris is on chase a mango tea style without a point of stuff being off your silver with Gingrich. So now it's time to actually cut that start out now If you've watched any of my video classes just involved going after, so we sheets, then you might really hurt the hints and tips. I'm going to you to you now, but it has always worth repeating by way. There is a against tips, pdf touch to the class materials, so the even first that as and when you need to download it and print it off so we'll be working on a bench. What support my work on the woods as much as possible, which arrive squared off. It doesn't tell you got these cuts in it, but I cut an option to it says I can support my work on there while still being able to access it with the jewelry store. They said, You can see it's filed, carved and so on into city spent picks eventually do where away have to be replaced. I'm going to try as much as possible to keep my blade upright, because by doing so, I'm going to be turned those nice, sharp corners. If the blade is this an own goal, then you end up cutting the top slightly before you have the bottom. The underneath of sheet, which makes it difficult to turn the sharp corners without breaking so bait. I'm also going to concentrate on my accuracy rather than my speed on and the last step I'm going to give you much trying to illustrate. You should listen to the noise I'm going to make. Yeah, I stopped liking cup of No, she's up quits. Yeah, So this now it's the noise. You with this? A little bit later, Scott stuck. It's a nice, smooth, arrhythmic sound and that's occurring because I'm not putting any pressure on the blade. I know, especially when you're starting. Teoh saw starting out this particular technique, the temptations to help the sobering such a push it a little bit here that you actually own here isn't help. But this is actually what happens if you put even in this world is a pressure on get stuck . So let the blade to do the work for you on your actually find everything goes a little bit smoother and easier. So I'm going to cut up to the corner so they inside caller just there. I'm going to show you how to turn every sharp corner Stop move my finger when this side well so that both sides the cut are supported because I won't cut it to size shape. I am going to vacations silver just way so I can make sure it's the right point. By the way, having state not putting for ashore means you get a smooth, rhythmic sound. This sheet, remember, is no longer even so you are actually more like it. Hit played, stuck on the piece of particularly sheets like smooth sheet. So reach corner. I want to tell a green I shuck corn. I don't want to turn occurred. So what? So I'm going to do? Is that the blade joke up down spot? But as it does so, I'm going to turn sheet slowly. If any point I really can't turn sheet, then I need to start swinging back a little bit and heat leaving again. So one support sure did you little bit just a corner again. Once you're facing the right direction now, I could have turned the corner again at that, tipped the star and carry on downwards. But because thes who tips are so close to the action sheet, so much so off. Stop here promotion. How much it 68 she still stuck way more like cool again. Again. I don't smoke. I think what's happened is that particular piece of sheet is a little bit thinner than the rest. Just forced it slightly differently. But it's thinner on that particular piece is thinner. Then the blade becomes a little bit too sick. Foot. You big for it, Really? So that's why that was stuck. So but thanks, queen. Hey, hopefully that h bitches with this bit from here onwards, I'm going to be turned sharply. Happened on smooth Chinese around slowly is facing the right direction again. - So one stop looks of silver dust as well. One lovely, quite sharp pointed at the moment. So star cash out that reticulated sheet how she hopefully here and see by the fact that my baby will be getting stuck Once I got past that much still a part of the sheet, it went, I talked more smoothly. So the next thing I need to do is to file start to remove the sore marks a door. So to make those Texas a little bit softer, so it it is a comfortable piece of your eat aware. Yeah, 8. Reticulated Star Pendant - filing: I just need to find out because it is time to file the itches of the star to remove the marks left by the saw blade Teoh make me look a bit more presentable And also to take the sharp ticks off the star because I wanted to be comfortable piece of jewelry to wear Ondas also despite from of it Yes, despite me trying toe cut out it accurately, accurately as possible that tick it is actually a little bit longer then the others. So I'm going to file a little bit to direct if I that I'm using of a wretch fire It is in C the tapered file. I says I try and get on the back. It's got one cutting face This one here on the other two are safety back on the reason why I'm using this is that not only will it fit nicely in between the points off the star, but he's also do so fire one side because its safety backed hasn't lost any teeth on the other. On the back of it, he's not gonna cause any damage on the other side. So remember, files, any work going one way bullet on. I'm going to file by simply That's my soaring apart from that chick's a bit longer was pretty accurate. So going to do. We just filed to reshape very much a tool from that shovel tick. I'm just finding to remove Seoul marks, So just doing one side of each tip at the moment find. Once I've been checking it around, I find that way I can keep a better track of a ship point. This is how far fires just filing until both sides oh, have lost their the rougher appearance from so late on a smoother and showing you hey, get So turn the star around it have the particularly surface facing toward me Turn around the other way on Go, go around again, doing you decide who's we can see. It's not shaking me too long. The feeling was that huge taking me about six stoked file in each. That chip, I think, was the one where the blade was catching because there is definitely a thinner metal tip. And so the one next to it, because remember, you have the silver around on the surface, of course, articulated finish. So the sheet is it's no longer, even in thickness. It's a swim. Yeah, that's the most Once it out made them all showing initiative that would check it because sometimes just going through making shiny I'm making smooth removing, so marks rectify any. It's like shaping this, but that is still a little bit too long. So what I'm going to do with this one? It's just keep fighting it at the same. I go so rich on the other. Yeah, that's yeah, that's a bit much. What I would also do is checked again. Decide whether I want which way around I wanted. If there's one tips, it is still started longer than the other with a five pointed star. Then, by having that tip top, it still looks all nice and symmetrical. Now those chips are still very sharp. So what I'm going to do is use direct five time too sweet over talk. But again, I'm going Teoh, adjusting four strokes and because I want you count them because I want you same on each tip. So four strokes going that way. I'm going to work my way around the storm again. Well, 23 full. 1234 But two more points to do. Turn it around. Do the same on your side, chip. So this is all about trying to make trying to keep what should be a very even making a shape, even trickier. That feels a lot better if yours don't. You can also do this at the very tip. Just Steve. A couple strokes. Just going across those couple of strokes won't be enough to change the shape visibly, but they might be the loss official. It's that you need. It takes a shock this off. Now that's just has done that. Such great. Um, So what I'm going to do now, this soldier who bail on the back to turn Michael stop into a dainty little pendant? 9. Reticulated Star Pendant - soldering the bail: I've now brought the star over to solving station because I want to solder a small vessel to the back. Secondly, Warner is dependent. Ondas you can see I put a mark with a Sharpie on. The point is somewhat the bail to be soldered behind. I had a good look Look settle five different ways up and decided that out of the four different So that's a fire. Different points and star. That one was maybe the old one out that by having it this way up it looks the most symmetrical. Andi, I've put too pieces of easy soldier just there one there. When they're they have their I promise I'm going to use those to solder the bell in place. But the first thing you need to do is actually make the bail. So I've got a piece of no 10.8 millimeter savings of around. Why Onda Pair off. Well, nose pliers. Andi. So I'm going to do quite simply, his hoat. The wire, probably 1/4 said, you know, more than 1/3 of the way down towards the handle. Remember, the further I go towards the handle, the bigger the loop. I'm going to turn because see, the nose is a tape. It something to do is some. Hold your finger and thumb quite close supplies. So I got control of this piece of wire and just turned. Applies round to form you shape. You see that moved about the light. Other Vinci's the cutters to cut off the long tail So the two ends much up. So I've now got my This will fail and that will be sold. Did you see it That will be soldered onto the back off. Start with those two pieces off. Easy solar. I just moved on wire cutters implies after way so that they're not going to come to any harm and soldering. What I'm going to do is just hold ups getting my fingers here. Hold that bail in bent nose reverse action pliers so that the whole held firmly I can use the Plaza tweezers rather toe hold on the back of star. I prefer to use bank knows for these and hold'em that way. But an experiment to see which is best for you. Dick that info Lux, which is just out of view of the camera. Oh, it's easiest way of getting the flux where I want it to be. I don't need a flux on both parts just on one. So it goes on the soldier, Andi, I'm going to hold 1st 1 and then the other side off the of the bail on to the soldier on and melt soldier in place so that I can put in here. The soul will be exactly where I want it to be, what he might just get to see in the camera that those ends now a little bit more rounded out they were. You can also see some excess flux on the tweet is that white powder? Because the end of the tweets is went in the flux as well. So now it aren't going to Dio is just practice where I went to think hound, pivot my hand away So it just comes straight back down again. Just pivot my hand out the way and for bit so I could put some heat into this store because , relatively speaking, even though that's a small star, it's a big piece of metal compared to the bail. So let's outwait start with some heat in here and bring that down to finish mounting soldier so that everything becomes one piece of jewelry. By the way, the show P mark. Yes, it burns tops now, But it was there long enough to remind me where to put the bail. Okay, so it heats up the whole piece, put the bail back in place. He steps, um, more wrong. The bail on then very important thing might have seen the liquid flush. The motor soldier. I eat everything. Still, until the soldier had gone that doc appearance, is it? Go inside. If I had moved everything to quickly, the bail would have have come off again. So you may want to watch that back it so emotion so you can see the with the soldier actually melting because this everything so small it was rather quick. But that is now. I said, dependent. I'm going to quit Shut Christian pickle porch to clean up. Andi, I'm going to show you how I burnish edges to give. Those are lovely shine in contrast to the texture front 10. Reticulated Star Pendant - burnishing: I've coming very, very close is close. Is my camera will allow me. So I hope sauce, These are focused, but I want to show you how to make the edges of the star extra shiny The contrast to the post surface everywhere else. This has just come out of the tumble polisher. Andi, What's he giving it? A dry? My tubal polish is a really nice one. So it doesn't get into that lovely texture on the front there. But if you was a little bit of extra help, then a gentle going over with a wire brush every gentle wide brush will help too get, um, the polish to shine into the corpses. The other alternative is to give the star a and teach or oxidized patina on that really draws out the texture beautifully says it's up to you. Depends what show which look you prefer if you would like to give its not size patina and you don't really know how to do that and have a look out for the car. My silver tutorial video that I've got um so I'm hoping you're going to have to see this on the video. You have looked at that edge. It was a bad that's not two shiny, that's what to my father. Um, what's your focus? Let's try again. Okay, that's dragging. Right there we go from were coming in place that it close to possibly more like to focus. So that's H there. That fish just there that's not too bad have compacted that one. That's definitely showing about catching the light. Nicer on its this tool that's allowing me to do that. This is a still Berisha. It's a bent nose burnish. Er, I prefer the but knows once I just find that I get a bit of extra pressure on them. So we go. How's your focus again? Wait for moments if I come back into focus? No, there we go. That's keep moving it about, Um, I thought I could I can put my finger in the curve there. I find that I I'm able to get much better pressure. But basically what bullshit does show you the eight year just work a small area of time. I have to really give that nice shine you can get. If you don't have a been a shirt, then a metal knitting needle could actually do do a good job as well, but these is out there such expensive I never used for for doing this and also for official sewn settings as well. So let's get this back and focus again. Moving about. So what I'm going to do is, um, come along here. Come on, camera essence for because you can do it with eventually. Alright, What I'm going to do is rob back of force all the best so that someone of region There we go. So I wrote back in force. That's one of the John. So I'm going to go around each point of stuff. Just It's very firm. It's just a little touch to finish off. It's, uh, Stephanie option. Also going all the way around one side. Gonna go check the star around to go around the other side, since it's definitely up. Sure don't have to do this. The stars lovely enough as it is. I just thought so likes to something. If I accused thicker sheet, I don't see the edges of star would be thicker, Andi, because it will pronounced effect during that. So that's my finished Our my foot you store on and it's it's worn the anxious. I'm going to catch the light beautifully as well said that just needs hanging on the chain on what a lovely little pendant. 11. Reticulated Star Pendant - final thoughts: I've now got a lovely, dainty on absolutely unique star pendant. Now, after all, it would be almost impossible to accurately recreate that articulated pattern on that is a large part of the appeal of this technique. A quick word about the materials such We're using this technique to end the class now, as I said before starting his pleating process, that success in that articulation comes from the difference in the melting point on Duthie . Cooling rates between fine silver on sterling silver. The stunning suffer inside on the fine service surface has been created by the depletion, and it's the difference between those accorded one area to contract more than another, creating ripples and creases. Now there's actually less than 100 degrees center, great between the different melting temperatures. Sterling silver got amounting temperature off just under 900 degrees centigrade, and fine silver has lost about interpret shirt off just over 960 degrees centigrade. Know very much when you think about how it you're melting temperatures not very much, relatively speaking, but it still creates unlovely effect. But if you'd like a more pronounced effect than you cannot she by something called articulation Silver now the study Silver's I've used this class is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Something I'm sure you've heard me say before. Articulation. Silver can be something more in effect off 20% copper and 80% silver. A much increased copper content, which means that by the time you carried out secretion, which will obviously take longer, there's more copper to deplete from surface to take out, you are actually left with materials that got five sylvan surface still. But the silver copper mix underneath has got a much lower mounting temperature. Onda much different cooling rate compared to find silver. The increased amount of copper increases the effect and can give you much. Will pronounce report articulation effect across the surface of silver. The results can be amazing, but you do have to be aware that the finished piece would not be a hallmark quality, something you do have to think about if you're in the U in the UK, I hope you have lots of fun creating beautiful jewelry. With this technique, be sure to ask questions if you need to to as you're finished piece of jewelry or even just your reticulated silver to the project section of this class on your social leave a review because that helps other students to find the cuffs as well. Thank you for watching.