Resin and Alcohol Ink Art Basics: Make coasters and artworks | Deby Coles | Skillshare

Resin and Alcohol Ink Art Basics: Make coasters and artworks

Deby Coles, Artist and teacher

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19 Lessons (58m)
    • 1. Welcome and introduction

      1:26
    • 2. Why are they called petri?

      1:23
    • 3. Safety considerations for resin and alcohol inks

      2:51
    • 4. Basic supplies and materials needed

      2:37
    • 5. Alcohol inks basics

      1:35
    • 6. Which brand of resin should you use?

      1:06
    • 7. Measuring the volume of your mold

      1:13
    • 8. Preparing the mold

      2:28
    • 9. Mixing resin & dealing with bubbles

      3:42
    • 10. Adding inks to the resin

      5:21
    • 11. Unmolding our first piece

      3:16
    • 12. Adding glitter to your petris

      8:01
    • 13. Unmolding our next piece

      4:09
    • 14. Creating movement with swirls

      5:35
    • 15. Unmolding issues

      4:22
    • 16. Finishing the back

      2:03
    • 17. Displaying your pieces

      3:13
    • 18. Make money with Macros

      3:10
    • 19. Wrap up

      0:30
21 students are watching this class

About This Class

Relax and have fun with your new hobby! The fascinating reactions of alcohol inks in resin will delight you. Make pretty and practical items like coasters, paperweights, pendants and larger art pieces.

It's time to let go and go with the flow! Be mesmerised by the incredible effects created when resin and alcohol inks combine in what is known as the resin petri. You can create both pretty and practical pieces such as coasters, pendants, buttons, paperweights and larger art pieces with these techniques. But be warned - it can be addictive! You'll love watching the inks react with the resin to make the intricate shapes and details. It's a very relaxing process.

Our class will cover the basics of the resin and alcohol ink techniques and inspire you to go on and create your own amazing mini artworks. Stare into the intricate details and it's like the whole galaxy right there in your resin. Or like looking at life under the microscope. The class also includes tips on how you can create additional income from selling prints of your pieces too. People really are fascinated by how these look, and you will be too.

Even if you've never used resin or alcohol inks before, everything you need to know is covered in the class. It's fun, easy, relaxing and rewarding.

Additional resources for use with this class:

Class Download - includes materials list with links and suppliers, additional free videos that are referenced in this class and links to other resources.

Transcripts

1. Welcome and introduction: Hello. I'm Debbie and I'll be your instructor for this class. I want to teach you everything I know about how to combine resin on alcoholics to make beautiful pieces of art. We've got some examples on the table. Him in front of me. Even if you've never used resin or alcohol inks before. No need to worry because it's easy. I'm gonna show that everything that you need to do step by step, we'll cover all of the basics, including the materials that you need to get started. Hi. To work with resin. What kind of moles to use on several techniques for creating these amazing art pieces, including how to drop your inks into the resin which time off white ink is gonna work best . How to on extra sparkle with glitter on how to create incredible movement in your art by swirling things we can create beautiful but practical pieces like the coasters that you see in front of May on. Also, amazing art pieces are gonna fascinate people. The details in these pieces will blow your mind is just like looking through a microscope. It's absolutely fantastic. When you feel more confident you can go on to make larger pieces, too. At the end of the class will even show you a bonus about how you could make extra money with your art pieces by taking incredible macro shots and selling them as prince or making them into products that you can sell online or through your Etsy store. So I think we're gonna have a great time in this class. I had a blast making it on. I think you'll enjoy taking it to I look forward to seeing you soon that's get stopped it. 2. Why are they called petri?: These are some of the pieces similar to what we're gonna create in our class. When you drop alcohol inks interested, you get the most amazing reactions. The alcoholic, especially the white alcoholic, reacts with the resin to create the most amazing tiny, tiny little details. And it kind of blooms and spreads inside the residence that makes these amazing shapes. So why are they called P trees? While the name was coined by popular resin artist Josi Luis, she created one of these pieces and around mold, similar to what will be creating throughout the class on notice when she molded them that the details were such that it looks like life forms something really organic, because if it were growing in a Petri dish and so the name was coined, it has been stuck because it's a fantastic way to describe the amazing details that you get in these tight and little pieces of are the macro shots or, if you look really close. You were absolutely fascinated by the wonderful shapes that the alcoholic makes in the present. So be prepared these air not only easy and fun to make, but totally addictive. So you may need to go and buy some extra resident and some old and some alcoholic because you're gonna want to sit and do these all day the shapes when the alcohol come into the residence. Absolutely amazing. I'm really glad you joined me. I'm looking forward to the lessons that we've got coming up next. So without further ado, should we get started? 3. Safety considerations for resin and alcohol inks: Let's take a moment just to quickly talk about safety before we go any further. Alcoholics on resident do require some special equipment. Firstly, if you want to protect your surface, I like to use this plastic. This is a form ill. It's a nice thick one on liken. Lay it down here on there that my table on even my floor is completely covered. This a plastic is thick enough that I can use it several times, and it's easy to wipe clean. Then, in aswell as protecting your environment, you need to protect you. So, firstly, old clothes, because if you happen to get the ink or the residue on your clothes, then it's permanent. It's not gonna come out, so make sure you wear in some old clothes if you're gonna be doing something like this, and also you might consider a shower cap. You know, I know that sounds really fun. It But once I had some resin on my club, I was really hot. I ran my hands through my hair and suddenly I had residents stuck in my hair. So if you're the kind of person that does that constantly pushes your hair back maybe put it in a ponytail or consider a shower cap normal except being you talking about protecting yourself. Always wear some gloves. Doesn't really matter what type of gloves as long as they're waterproof. You can use the night trial, the latex or vinyl, and they will protect you both from the resin on from staining your hands with alcohol ing's. Most importantly, I get my glasses on. Let's actually have a look at the links themselves because they do contain warnings. This is the Tim Halts the Ranger one. This has warning a flammable irritant vapor harmful, harmful if swallowed. On the opinion data from D, Card says. Flammable. I hear a tent flush for eye contact flush with water. Contains denatured alcohol. Provide adequate ventilation on both of those are very important Andi warnings that you need to consider so yes, use adequate ventilation working an area if you can, where you can get flow through. Open your doors and windows. Make sure you don't have pets or small Children. In the era while you're working with these products, you should also consider using a respirator. Even if you have a brand of resin that is low or no Vo sees and doesn't require you to use a respirator just because of the flu perfumes that make him off from the alcohol inks you may wish to consider wearing. When I do my alcoholic on raising works, I always wear a respirator. However, for the purposes of this class, if I wear it, you will be able to hear me speak. So I'm gonna could carry all through the class without it. I will have my doors and windows open. I decided to make sure there's good airflow. But please, just because you see me not wearing one, Please, Please don't do as I do. Do as I say. I make sure that you're gonna be safe. 4. Basic supplies and materials needed: Let's take a look at some of the basic supplies you're gonna need for making your resin P. Trees started over on the left hand side. I have some small measuring cups. These ones are great for measuring at the exact amount of present that you need. Once you have it measured, you need a larger cup on stir stick in order to stir up your resin. Here, we've got some molds. This one is commonly known as a coaster. Mold has three separate sections here at the bottom, and, as you can see, it's kind of map on the back. But what's very important about your moles? I shine them towards my lights. You see that they're shiny. Your moles must be glossy in order to get the best finish with your resident. Because when your resident goes in here, the side that touches the mold is gonna be the top. Having will that be glossy? If you're mould isn't glossy or is in some way damage scratches, got holes in it or something like that, Then you won't get a good result arrested so you could make smaller pieces in moulds like this. You can also use larger pants again. You can see very, very Dorsey. This is a silicon just like a cake pan. I think it's a nine inch square. You could also get them in circles on lots of other amazing shaped. But whichever make sure they go see, make sure they're silicon talking about silicon. We will also need the Silicon Belt lubricant. This is 100% silicon oil, and we're gonna use this toe oil our moles to make sure that our best will cover easily to apply the silicon to the mold. Very simple. Just a few Q tips. You may also find handy to have something like the little cocktail sticks or toothpicks. These could be helpful for picking little bits and pieces out of your resident or manipulating into various different shapes. Then they will need some kind off torch. This is just a simple chef's torch looks a little bit the worse for wear minds, all covered in paint but still works just fine. These are called butane torches sometimes cramp you les torches. On this we will use to heat the resin in order to make the bubbles rise on pop those bubbles so that we get a nice cured resin finish. You'll also be handed to have some cleanup supplies. So I always keep on hand a nice big box off wet wipes or baby wipes on some alcohol. This one is isopropyl alcohol, 99%. Anything about 70% should be fine, so those are the basic supplies. Next, we'll have a look at alcoholics. 5. Alcohol inks basics: So let's take a look at some of the links that we can use now. The first thing, Very important. They have to be alcoholics. You can't do it with general can calligraphy inks or even Indian inks. Or a critic thinks it has to be alcoholics in order to get that fact within the resident. If you are in the U. S. And Canada, maybe certain parts of Europe, there are two main brands that you can get. This is the G card pin Yetta. He's come in a beautiful array of colors, and then on this side we have the Tim Holtz Range rings. Both are absolutely fine. Work perfectly. However, there's just one thing that you have to consider, and that is the whites. The white inks behave kind of differently within the resin. The Tim Holtz well is shown as a mix it if on this one is a little bit heavier or for some reason doesn't react in the resident. The same way that the jacquard Kenyatta does on this one does not give the best results. So I would suggest that the pinata by car, the Blanco Blanco, their white ink funny. No, that's the one that's gonna give you the best results in terms of colors. Go for it. There's an amazing array of colors in both ranges. On you can mix and match as long as you always use the pinata white. You could use whichever colors from either the pinata or the ranger range thinks that you like to use. 6. Which brand of resin should you use?: you might be wondering if it matters. Rich brand of resin you use on the after is yes, and then you will still get the same results With all of the typical crafting residents like art resin Master cast a lot of the other ones. They will give the same results or similar results when you're creating your Petri. The one thing that is important when you create your patris is to consider UV resistance because alcohol inks are like fast. So if you put Hollings into resin on the resin, doesn't know have a UV stabiliser, maybe somebody put so lovely little Petri in the window, you could soon find that one or more of the colors in it could fade quite dramatically, so it's very important. Regardless of which brand you pick that, you do pick a resin that has a UV stabiliser and therefore helps to protect your alcohol inks. I'm not gonna recommend any particular resident in this class because I know depending on where you come from in the world, and also depending on what your budget is, then it could be that you want to work with different brands. On old of them are fine 7. Measuring the volume of your mold: Before mixing your resident, you need to know how much rest into mix. So you've got your coaster mold. Or maybe you're using. This was a larger mold. I needed to work out how much resident poor easy way is to take a jug of water, pour it into your mold as deepest. You want your final product today for may say about there. So, of course, you can see over here some of the examples as a couple of examples here, where one is much thicker and deeper than the other. So it's entirely up to you as to which which statements you want to pour something shallow , something deep or somewhere in the middle. Once you have your water, now it's time to measure it. So let's see if I can do that carefully without tipping it everywhere. I'm gonna pour that into another measuring jug, and now, when I take a look on the side of my jug, I can see exactly how much resident I need to mix in order that it will be at the level that I want to in my mold 8. Preparing the mold: it's time to prepare our mold, ready for the present. We need to make sure our mold is nice and clean. It's grease free on it, doesn't have any bits of lint or hair or an eyelash, a little bit of straight lifter or anything in there that you don't want to end up in your Final Four. So I would suggest, first of all, to wash him all that just nice and gently with some warm, soapy water. If you're gonna do that, just make sure that if you use a cloth or sponge that it's not in any way abrasive, it's not gonna more that shiny surface you've got. Then I use a little bit off alcohol, so I'm gonna take some alcohol on just a cotton pad, make it nice and where, because what we don't want, of course, is any lint in there. So once my paths nice and where I can just gently wipe around on the inside of my mold and make sure we've got no bits off Greece and will also pick up any little stray bits and pieces that we might have their why providing the top two in case there any bits off hair lit dust, and then we can just leave that to dry Naturally. Now we can also help our coasters or our molds to release a little bit later, or by just adding a little bit of silicon around the edge. Now, no, on the actual flat surface of the mold itself, because if you do that, it can sometimes leave little marks or residue or some little bits of pitting on the front . So we're only gonna put it on the sides. That reason gonna use a little Q tip. This is the oil that I'm using is a treadmill belt. Silicon lubricant is 100% silica. I put just a little drop for two on the end of here and again. I wanted to be linked free. So I'm making sure that it's nice and cover, so there's no little bits of fluff they're gonna come off and then just gently wipe it around on the sides of our mold. Might do a couple of times just to make sure I got good coverage with the oil, same time, make sure not to let it drip down into the front of the mold, and there we go. That's good. We can just leave it for a couple of minutes for any little bits off uncle that might be in there to evaporate on. Then we're ready to makes our resident. 9. Mixing resin & dealing with bubbles: it is time to makes our resident. I'm really excited about this partner, so I've got a two part resin mind mixes, 1 to 1 ratio. Do check the instructions for the present Graham that you were using. Many of them are 1 to 1. Some of them were slightly different. It would also give you instructions on how to make sure residents where they choose one cup or two cups on how long to mix my requires. A single cup on three minutes of mixing was getting my resident on hardener both in there lessons kind of pricey, so I'm gonna let every little bit dribbler. Okay, that's good. Now let's talk bubbles, because if you get a lot of bubbles in your coasters, they could look unattractive on. Sometimes they can be hard to get out without burning your resident or your mold with the torch. So the secret is stir nice and slow, so I'm going to stir my resident nice and slow. It says three minutes. So I will still stir for three minutes. But by stirring nice and slowly, I'm not gonna add a lot of bubbles if I get in there and really whipping around with the stick, thinking that I'm going to get a better mix. I might find that it goes clear sooner, but I'm also gonna end up a little more bubbles, and they're gonna be harder to remove. So slow and steady wins the race on this one. Try on. Get a good mix with the resident but same time. Don't have too many bubbles now. Obviously, watching may stir A cup of raising for three minutes isn't going to be very interesting. So cut off. Now on, we will come back and start to add our resin into the mold. We'll talk a little bit more by bubbles. My reading is mixed on. It's pretty clear, but there's probably a few bubbles in there that you can see, and that's pretty inevitable. You're always going to get a few. So the best way I found is to pour your resin into the mold in a couple of layers, so I'll pour it into the mold. First of all, in a thin layer about half my cup. Leave it to spread out and then I'm gonna take my butane torch. Make sure I've got it set too low and just lightly and quickly. I'm going to torch over the surface of here so that I'm gonna heat the resin, allow any bubbles to escape. But at the same time, I don't want to scorch or burn it or mount the mold. That was it. Quick is that quick and light that's pouring some more. Resident when did exactly the same with the torture game? I go on, our last resting goes. And so once more with the torch. Get rid of any final bubbles and I think that looks pretty good. Now at this point, you want to have a good look inside and see if there's any little bits and pieces in there that you can see shouldn't be. I can see a little mark there. Is that a bubble? Yes, actually, that's a bubel Aiken. Just dab that with my stick and it pops. It goes away and looks like something done. And there's a little bit of fluff, so I'm pulling that out and I've got it. That's it. My residence now beautifully clear. I'm ready for my thanks 10. Adding inks to the resin: I've chosen a simple palette for my thinks. I've got the senorita magenta, passion purple and the Bihar blue. I'm also going to be using the pin your toe white. Now there's no real secret or designed to anything that you do. You comport all of your instrument, Lee in the center, you can pour them. If I wanted three different colors, I could put 1/3 here 1/3 here 1/3 here, Or I could do you know, rings or spirals of color. To some extent, what you do is gonna move any way you can try and put the inks where you want them to go. But they're always gonna move. So that's just without further ado Get to it. The white ink is what creates the magic. So I'm gonna put some white in here and then create some spots around the outside, which will be my target areas for where my color is going to go. Okay, says my wife 10. That's now do some pink on some of those. I'm gonna put a couple of drops of color directly on top of those white areas, and you can already see the interesting reactions that are taking place there. Thanks. Just my purple. Put the purple around the outside here and now My blue and I can see how some of the colors seem to have reacted mawr. At the moment, the pink is in the lead. That seems to have more reactions in the other colors. But if you just give it a little bit of time, those reactions continue to develop. I think you can see in the blue here have ink YSL moving around within the resin itself, we may decide to add a little bit more color. So the more color you at, the more thank you add, the more your reactions are going to spread out a little bar. So that's ad some more white. Each of these spots on again you'll see the cut, the reaction starting to take place as the ink layers react with each other. And then I'm gonna go over on. Just add some more color into the spaces where happened before. Now, if you want to, you can mix and match. You may decide that if you had pink in the first layer that maybe you want to add your purple the second time round, and it's all entirely up to you your design from now on. So it's really only up into your own creativity, and you can do whatever you like in order to make absolutely glorious designs. So I'm just gonna let the camera sit here on Run on that for a couple of minutes so you can see the reactions that continue to take place within the resident, - so we don't seem to be getting much in the way of any ongoing reactions. So I'm gonna do it. Just add one more drop off white on. Then we'll call it a day, and then we have to be patient and wait for the unfolding. See how adding the white creates these reactions Absolutely fascinating to watch. I could do this all day. Once our inks are in, and we are happy with our design. Now we just have to sit back and be patient. Sometimes that's the hardest part, so just take a box. Make sure there's no fluff or anything inside. Use it to cover your resident so that any dust or hair or anything isn't gonna fall into it . While it's curing. Check your manufacturer's instruction to see how long you have to cure your resting four and then we'll come back in the next video and have a look at the unfolding and see what we go. 11. Unmolding our first piece: My piece is cured and it looks absolutely glorious on the back, the colors here, the so so vibrant, so bright. Of course, it's gonna look slightly different to how we left it, because over time the things continue to move around on blend Onda. At the moment, I can see I've got quite three quite distinct colors in here. Sometimes you can agile colors and find that when you come back, they really have welled up and moved around so much that the colors almost all blended together and you may have added three and ended up with one. But that doesn't look like the case today, so I am excited to unmold this so that any further ado so we just get this at the mold and see what we got. So I'm just going to gently separated from the site of the mold. The's moles. They only have a limited lifetime. You may find that little stick the first time, the second time, the 10th time, but eventually your resin is going to stick into the mold or your mold will tear when you take your resin piece out on. Unfortunately, that is just part of the process that the molds aren't permanent. They will. They will break, tear or stick over time. So let's see how you get off slowly, slowly wins Race on Dhere Our pieces out on its looking glorious Love the colors. Now time for the big reveal. We have to turn it over on, see what it looks like. Oh, so pretty. I love it. And here it is. And wow, this it's so so pretty that thinks in this the colors are just fabulous. As you can see, we've got perfect, glossy finish to it on. The details are amazing when you look at this piece on the side. Amazing three D details on. Of course, my camera can't pick up awfully well the details of this. It doesn't do very well if I bring things in close to the camera. But what I'm going to do is take a few photographs and use them as a little slide show on. You'll be able to see some more of the great details that we've created in this piece. It's really, really pretty. Do you think we should do another one? I think so, too. So, while you enjoy the slight show this one I've been makes up a little bit more resin on. I suggest we have another go, and maybe this time shot a little bit of glitter. 12. Adding glitter to your petris: well, I had so much felt the first time I desperately want to do it again. So let's make another one This time it's at some glitter. I've got some of this just a basic craft store, very fine glitter, which I'm gonna Sprinkle into our resident as I'm creating the design with the thinks so my resident is already mixed my tortures here. I'm gonna pour into the mold and then we'll get started. So my reason is in the mold, it's all been had any little bits and pieces taken out and I've got my glitter at the ready . I think less is more so. I'm just going to tap a little bit. See, There you go. This is what happens. So I have got a little stick on hand and now I could move this about on. We can move the glitter so they're just not all in one place. There we go. See how easy that waas the disaster is averted. Add your glitter Now it's gonna be a little bit harder if we add litter during the process off putting in the inks. Because, of course, then we won't want to swirl the inks around so much. There we go. So if you want to add your litter during the process, remember, try not deport directly out of the park because these kind of accidents can happen. Best to put a little bit on your fingers and sprinkling in. Okay, so let's make a start. I've got two colors. I'm gonna go with the Baja blue because I love that color from the last one we did on this time a new one, uh, Kala Bazar orange. So we'll just do two colors because we have the blister on. Of course, I'm using the pinata white. I'm gonna keep buying design Simple. I just have six spots of color on the center. Let's put a couple of spots of white in this time, so it's up to you to experiment once you have the basic techniques underway to decide which way that you like to put your links in. Do you like to have more white? Do you like to have more color, which works best for you? Life is all about experimenting and especially our You will no doubt over time develop your own style. Go blue and orange from the lovely, lovely combination And of course, as you develop your own style, there's no reason that you have to put your links in any in any particular way. Just experiment with it a little bit and see which works best for you. I think maybe another color in the center would look like so I'm gonna do other some bright yellow. Put that one in the middle with a lot of yellow, nice and bright so it can see some really beautiful designs developing. And that yellow now, because of all the ink, is really starting to spread out on our glitter is well distributed at the moment. Within our resin, some blisters are heavier or lighter than others on. You may find that sometimes it will rise, and sometimes they were four again. It's up through to you to experiment and see what you like the best. So shall we add just a little bit more ad next to drop of why and all of these spots two in the middle, one extra drop of color a couple of years, and we'll leave it there. You can see at the moment there's a lot off negative space, a lot off clear areas of resident, so it will be interesting for us to leave it here on come back later on and see how much, if any, thes areas of think of spread. And of course, this time you see that I've added a lot less ink than I did in the previous one. So again be interesting. Whether you add, you know, two or three drops of ink or up to a dozen drops of ink, practice with an experiment with it and see which designs on which options give you the look that you really it up in this 2nd 1 I've already got my resident here. I reserved a little bit of resin in my cup on demand it a little bit of silver glitter to it. So rather than put it directly into the resident, I've saved a little bit. And put it here on that again can help you prevent a glitter overload or too much blister or more glitter than you intended or being in one place so I can matter at that. In a little spiral into my pace, we will see if it stays that way. Once our links have created the movement in the resident, so it's like the same as they did before. That's make a similar kind of design. We'll even use the same colors and the last one. I think we put two dots off white on day two of each color. Let's do it slightly differently. It's just do one doff white. This time I'm two of each color, and we'll see if using different amounts of white gives us a different result. Is our orange on that lovely yellow in the centre again? I think I'm gonna go 4123 four. Let's just give that a moment to react and we can see those fantastic reactions already taking place there. I think it looks nice also with the spiral of glitter if you use the right kind off colors with this kind of deep purples and unready. EDS. Andi BLUES With the silver like this, you could almost get like a galaxy effect. Perhaps so let's go again with just one drop of white this time andare two drops of color. I remember when I put white in the center, nine to another one 1234 Fascinating to watch them spread. Look what's going on with these. So also interesting to see how some colors react more than others. I think in the ones that we did previously, you saw how the pink was the most reactive. Here it seems that the orange seems to be more reactive than the blue. But neither of them are particularly spreading out. Let's add more drop of white, allow it to do its thing. And I think we will leave it at that. Okay. Looking gorgeous. So I've got plenty off clear resin here, too. So something just a little bit different in this one compared to some of the other ones that you've seen where refused a lot more inks on. They've spread out a lot more. So I'm not gonna put the cover over these. Leave them overnight Cure Andi, I'll see you in the next section for our d molding. 13. Unmolding our next piece: our litter pieces are now cured on ready. But before we take them out of the mold, let's talk a little bit about failure. Creating these kind off pieces is a bit like trying to create art with a blindfold, because, after all, what you're creating is on the underside and you can't see it. You also come in some in some ways not control it, because even after you leave, it thinks will continue to move on when you come back several hours later. It could be different, too, to exactly how you intended, same as we discussed earlier with the color choices. Sometimes you can add two or three different colors on when you come back, you find you are mold and mysteriously only have one color. So where did they go? So it's quite common that you'll find your unmold one of your pieces. You'll have high hopes. I don't be kind of disappointing a little bit there, I don't know, a little bit black, so be prepared for that. It happens is all part of the creative process. As you become more experienced on you, learn what works and what hasn't worked. Then hopefully your success rate will be higher. I find that about one in three is know exactly what I was intending? No, I was hoping it's a little bit there. So this is number two number three. So let's take a look at these and see how they worked. Well, from the back, they look absolutely glorious. The colors look fantastic and I can see little bits of glitter in Biff. But molding is going to be our test. So let's do this one. This is the 1st 1 that we did. Our blister one. This has got the blue glitter. This is where we poured a little bit of district and then mixed it around in the resin before pouring our Thanks. Oh, that is really pretty. Really, really pretty. Index like flowers. I'm gonna bring that in for a close up. So here is out of the mold. I think it looks so good. Really, really pretty. It's got lots of dimension to it. Lots of three D effects on. I really love the white. It almost reminds me a little bit of jellyfish, thes white parts around here. They're so, so light, so ethereal, the way the white moves through the resin and creates his amazing shapes. So that's the first question. One. You see the little sparkles off the blue blister and there, but it's not overloaded. It's quite subtle on, I think, overall, this one is really, really pretty. So that's trying Number three. This is the one where we added the silver glitter into a little bit off, resting on, then poured it into our mold on top of the other lesson in little spiral pattern. So let's see if we still have our spiral. Andi. Oh, lovely. Now lots of lots of glitter You may or may not be able to see, but just just yet, I'm gonna bring it in for a close up on again. It's really, really pretty. There's a little bit less white in this one, so I think you can recall that we added two drops of white to start in this one before our colors. This one, we only added one drop of why, and you can see if you compare the two. There's less white, less of the kind of feathering us of this one that there is in the 1st 1 that we did nonetheless there both beautiful and you can still see thes spiral of glitter. So let me bring this with him for a close up. So here is our 2nd 1 that has a love letter. The glitter looks really, really good, I think. Well, I'm not sure if you will see it sparkle, but the silver glitter that had is a little bit more sparkly in any event than the city than the blue one. And I think you can steal. See that it has vaguely kept the nice spiral shape. There's less white in this one, so we don't have some of those patrons around the edge to the same extent they're still there. No, as much as there was in the other one, where we had added more white before, we started to add the colors. Also, it's got lots of great dimension to it. Still, of course, the colors are very bright on the clear areas, a nice and clear with no bubbles. So I think this one also has been a great success. So if you're a glittery kind of person, I think you'll enjoy adding a little bit off blister into these Petri pores. So should we go on now onto another one. Let's talk a little bit in our next section about how to manipulate the ink hand, create extra patterns. 14. Creating movement with swirls: up until now, we've been adding our ranks in on just leaving them to their own devices. Let them do their own thing. However, there's no reason why we can't get in there with a little cocktail stick or something and move the inks around to create a design within our finished piece. So let's do that. I'm gonna show you a couple of close ups of some examples where I've done exactly that. This piece is very see through. You can see my hand on a lot of those surface through the back there. On the way I achieved this was to pour my inks or very much in towards the centre on. Once I had, um dripped into the center, I used a cocktail stick and I pulled him out towards the edges. So I have a lot more space here on the ink came to the edges that sort of folded over and created these soft effects where the ink starts to come up the side on in towards the centre there on the surface, so the edges are you see a lot more softer and we have a lot more softer effects around the edges of the peace. So that's that one Also have this one. This one was created in a spiral. So again, once all of the ink swore added, you can probably just direct See on the reverse. I took a cocktail stick. I made a spiral pattern and you can see how the inks removing in a spiral each of the colors. And then from the front you can see the spiral pattern again, where the inks move from one area round to the next. My reason is ready. So let's just start dropping some links. I will do exactly the same as we did in our previous examples. Can I have a number of different colors? And again it's up to you whether you decide to take your links to the edge of your piece or just leave them or in the center. This time I'm gonna go more for just a random placement of the colors because I want him to blend a little bit later on when I move them around as usual, that pink is creating amazing effects. This is the senorita Magenta Love that cutter. Okay, so now I've got a few gaps. I'm going to just add Cem dots of color in those gaps. That's not a couple of drops of white on that. I can feel a lot more of our color. I think you could do it some more. Perp allegedly side blue here, Sansom or Pink. And this time, because I'm on our thanks to more less come cover the whole area without any without any blank spots. So much apart from right on the edge is that I'm gonna add a lot more layers of ink this time. So now just going around and add a single door off white on top of all of these, and we'll get them to spread out by creating more reactions. Also, by adding more Thanks. So, as you can see, I was nowhere near as concerned about replacement this time again. You know, thes design decisions, Airil down to you t make yourself personally. You may want to set how very order designed, perhaps colors in graduating rings of color A man. You can mix them with your cocktail stick, so I'm just gonna wait a moment for those bits of white to disappear so that our Inc stop moving just a little bit. So I think I'm happy with the placement of my colors. So now just take my cocktail stick and it really now again. And there's another design decision. Do you just put the tip in on a swirl at the back? Or do you put the stick all the way down towards the front of the mold? Be careful. Of course not. To scrape the mold. You don't want to put your stick all the way down and use too much pressure to actually more the shiny surface. I'm gonna put my I'm pretty much time to the bottom and then start to create a spiral coming out on again. You could make a tight spiral like this one, or you could make a much looser spiral. Okay, I think I'm finished. So again, that's all there is to it. Nice and simple. I'm gonna put a cover over this one. Leave it to cure on the Enel. Show you what it looks like when it's all finished. 15. Unmolding issues: hours. World peace is now cured. So let's get out of the mold on See what we got. I wonder if we will be lucky this time and still be able to get a piece out of the mold. Yes, so far, so good on. It's another beauty. We have another great success rate with this one, So let me bring in closer to take a closer look at the details. It doesn't look anything too much interesting or exciting on the back, but when we turn it over, it's really pretty. Has lots of really lovely swirl effects in it. You can see where some of the whether Inc was right to the edge. It's come up over the edge and on to the top of our design. On throughout, we have a lovely spiral pattern. It's settled. This is just a narrow one. I just used to two actors on this one, so it's not very deep. I think you can still see you have a lovely swirl effect. There we go as I bring it in closer. I think that's about what my camera will dio. You can see some of the lovely details in this one So let's go on to talk a little bit more about unmold ing problems. So we were lucky. This one also came out of the mold. We have a great success rate So far, however, this mold hasn't always been so lucky. Let's take a look at some of the close ups on this this section of the mall just here. I think if you look carefully, you can see that there is an inner ring where it's slightly lighter, that the color of the mold above on. This is where the president is having an impact on our old and so over time it kind of wears it on on the residents, sticks a little bit to the mold. Have an example a couple of examples over on this. Well, on this one, just hear the resin piece actually stuck into the mold really, really strongly, and I could not get out. No matter what I do now, there are a number of tips. If you do find that your resonance stuck into the mold, you can heat it or you could make it cold on one of the other may have an impact so you can put your mold, including a resin piece in some very hot water. Leave it to warm up. Maybe that will soften it just enough that you get off the side of your mold. Or you can also try putting it in the freezer every night. So it's really cold and hard and maybe shrinks up a little bit and pulls away on. That may also help you in the event that it doesn't inherit event. You try both of those. You might still find that your piece basically is fused to the mold. I no matter what you do, you just cannot separate the two, and it's It's not like it's stuck. It's almost like a chemical bomb. Chemical fuse. The two have become one on. The only way you're going to separate them is to break one or the other. Typically, obviously, your resume peace is hard. You will be able to do anything about that on what happens is you will pull away some of the lining on the inside of the mold here. I'm just going to bring the camera in close to show you what that looks like. You see here where the edge of the mold has got stuck with the resident on. When I pulled the resin piece out, it took away some of the surface. This mold also has a little split it, as you can see just here. Luckily, it's It's only in the side of the mold on as I let the mold relax. This this area actually closes up on none of the resin. Know the resident exact. As you can see, this mold has been used, you know a number of times, and it's on its way out. So there's a couple of tips. If you do, find yourself with a piece of resin stuck in your mould in terms of how to avoid it. While you just need to look after your moles as nicely as you can, keep the license clean. Wash them carefully between use. I would also suggest don't feel right up to the top, because on this one where I had a higher piece on, it's created some damage around the very top. I can still use this same well for a shallower piece, and it's just fine. But it's an indication that my mold is certainly on the way back. Also, you want to use your torch carefully. So justice I showed with some of the earlier videos. A very quick blast ever with torch. Keep the torch away from the ball because again, if you heat, if you make the mobile too hot, then course that's another reason why more could be damaged. 16. Finishing the back: So if you've made any of these resin pieces, you may notice that when you turn them over onto the reverse, the site that was on the top of your resin when you did the mold that there's a little lip around the edge, a little edge, kind of raised up section. It's not a sharp, and it's very, very thin, narrow on regular, but it's not level with the back of your piece on your thinking. What did I do wrong? Was it something wrong with my resin with my inked with my mold? The truth is, you did nothing wrong. It's just what's called the meniscus effect exactly the same as if you pour water into a glass and you look at it very, very carefully. The water, it kind of turns up a little bit at the edges where it meets. The glass on your resin does exactly the same when you pour it into a mold, so you're always going to get this little rim along here. Now there's absolutely nothing wrong with it. If you want to display on a stand, put it in a frame, uses a coaster. He's just fine as it is is perfectly functional. However, it's a personal preference. You may wish to just go with it, or maybe you wish to fail this end. What you can do is just turn it up, face down, put some extra resin on the back, allow it to sit within the little lipped area, and then when you're done, you'll have a perfectly smooth back on. You won't have this little lips, so it will be exactly the same on the back as it is on the front. I have a YouTube YouTube video, actually, on my channel where I show this piece. I've done exactly that. What I did was I sanded down a little bit just to take the very sharpest of edges off the edge of that little lip on. Do you can see me in the video, which I will think, too, so you can go and over take a look at that. I just standing a little bit later, flat and then filled up the well on the back with some clear resin on. Then the back of your piece is exactly the same as the front of your piece on you. Don't end up with that little lip around the edge so again is not necessary is just a matter of personal preference if you would like to do that. 17. Displaying your pieces: now I think the resin pieces are completed. Let's talk through some ways. You can either use them or display them. Of course, they make the perfect coaster. If you do intend to use them as a coaster, four hot drinks, then you'll need to check on the rating of your resume. Each brand of resume will publish the temperature at which it's suitable for use. So probably it's. Unlike you. Use less use a specialized brand that you'll be able to put something like a hot source bone or something on it. But coffee mugs and things like that will be absolutely fine. You can get some brands of resin, which are suitable for use for countertops and work tops in your kitchen, in which case those well may may be very highly temperature rated. But for the most part, check for ones that are gonna be suitable for use coasters on. Then nothing else was required. They just make a beautiful coast of your cup of coffee. And, of course, you could make her set in matching colors, which will be beautiful for gifts. If you just wish to display them, assume artworks. Of course, there's lots of options for this. I've got a little one here that's really, really cute. It takes advantage of the fact that it has a lot of transparent areas because it's on just a little easel on it could stand on its own like that, just as a little stand alone piece of are these little easels that I use that very economical, not provide, of course, links for ways to get them on. It looks really cute. It's perfect for on your mantel in your entrance way a little piece of deaths car where you don't have a lot of room. I think these would make really beautiful gifts like this. You can also, of course, put them in frames on, depending on whether have a thin piece or thick piece. I like to use a different display. This one here is a thinner piece on. This is mounted onto actually a liquid or power, so it's not intended for use as a frame A such but because of its it's not too thick. It looks really good surface mounted onto this liquid. Our panel, I think, say, that looked really cute like that for my thicker pieces. I like to use a shadow box and 40. I don't have any finished a moment to give you an example. But here's what it can look like that this is a thicker piece mounted inside. Afraid. Give it a nice three d look. You can also be inventive on my multi other things Here. I've got an example of a ceramic tile. I haven't actually glued this one on just yet is an example of what you can dio. And, of course, remember your background doesn't have to be white. If you had a black glossy ceramic tire and glued your Petri onto that, it would look phenomenal because they're transparent on the colors are so fighting bright and vibrant, they look really good with other colored back rides. Especially black. I think so. I said this wasn't glued on yet. How can you glue your resin pieces on? Because, of course, a lot of the time they may have clear areas, and you want those to stay clear. Good news is it's easy. Just makes yourself up, tying a little bit of extra clear resident and use it as a glue up a little bit in the back off your rest in peace at it, where you want on your frame allow it to cure, and it stuck perfect 18. Make money with Macros: so I just want to jump in with a little bonus here on talk about Mac Rose. I've shown you some images in the past on my camera. Doesn't especially take really great Mac Rose, but if yours does, you can get some really fantastic images that people are just going to be absolutely fascinated by. Here's a few of mine, and, as you can see there a little bit grainy. My camera doesn't do the best job. I only have Ah, really old point in press. But if you have a nice SLR or you have something with a macro lens, you can get some really incredible photographs off the details off your Mac rose on a course there. An extra revenue source for you, If you like to create our on, sell it that not only can you create the resin P trees themselves, but you can create some amazing art pieces on, then go on to make products or prince from those. So even with mine, I can still go on to make some interesting products where it's not necessary. Perhaps toe have crystal clear macro shots, so I'm gonna take you now over to society. Sex on, just show you some examples of how you can use your macro shots. But course there are also other places available. You can get your own prince created to sell in your Etsy shop. You can use a company called Print Ful or places like Red Bubble. So let's go over to Society six and take a look here. I've just set up a dummy account with society Sex on added in just one photograph on. Here's some examples of the kind of products that you can create. So, basically you you take a photograph, you upload it into thes store on. Then you can automatically pick which items you want to create. So they're things like laptop skins on covers, coffee mugs, bags. Uh, Prince, of course. Pillows, clocks, stationary cars, throw pillows, beach towels, bathmat, shower curtains, beddings prince coasters. You can just make anything on. The good thing is, Society six does everything. They take the order, they make it, they send it on. Then you were in the commission of around 10% on their sales because you provided the design. Just take a look at some of the wall, our options. So I've just uploaded my image other days, rather than do anything fancy to it or crop it, for example. But it looks really nice if you make square ones, too. So here, for example, I've got some art prince canvas prints on a framed print, and when you click on, you have a price on a various number of sizes, so people pick which size they want to buy, and depending on what they buying, you get a larger or smaller commission on. Of course, you don't do anything for it. So you imagine you could make one resin Petri. You could maybe take half a dozen beautiful macro shots and create a whole shop full of products that people goodbye based on that one resin Petri and the amazing macro shop that you've taken off it. So that's just one extra little idea about how you can make money with your macros and from your amazing Petri R 19. Wrap up: So all that is now left is for me to say thank you. Thank you so much for taking this class. I had a absolute blast filling it for you. I hope you've enjoyed taking it. I hope you've learned some useful skills and tips that you go on to make some amazing art pieces and resin pieces for yourself. Please don't forget to check out the links and the other resource is available for this class. And I also have other classes of fact. Check those back too. And there might be something there that you'd be interested in once again. Thank you very much. And I hope to see you again soon.