Resin Ocean Painting with Real Sand | Haley Patricia | Skillshare

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Resin Ocean Painting with Real Sand

teacher avatar Haley Patricia, Resin Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (21m)
    • 1. Intro

      0:28
    • 2. Resin Basics & Safety

      3:27
    • 3. Supplies Needed

      4:23
    • 4. Canvas Prep

      2:36
    • 5. Measuring & Mixing

      3:27
    • 6. Pouring Resin

      3:57
    • 7. Finishing Touches

      1:27
    • 8. Final Product

      0:52
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About This Class

Have you seen those addicting resin pouring videos all over social media and wondered how to do it? I wondered the same thing over a year and dived into the medium head first. I became obsessed with learning how to create the perfect resin ocean painting. I experimented with countless resin brands and have finally found what works best for me; Now I'm excited that I can finally share it with you. I've gone through hundreds of dollars in wasted product, and endless hours or trial and error so that you don't have to! In this class you'll not only learn the technique I use for my oceans, but the exact products I've discovered that make all the difference. As an added bonus we'll also go over resin safety and how I prep my work space and my canvas. You'll not only learn how to recreate my photorealistic ocean, but you'll be able to take this method and apply it anywhere, whether it be on a larger canvas, or on functional art such as cheese boards, trays, and tables. Enjoy and have some fun!

Meet Your Teacher

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Haley Patricia

Resin Artist

Teacher

Hello, I'm Haley Patricia, the creator behind ResinDiva! I'm a Fort Lauderdale based resin artist who is new to the world of teaching. Before COVID-19 rattled the world, I was preparing to host my first ever resin class at a local studio. Since that couldn't happen, I couldn't just wait for the world to go back to normal before I could share my knowledge about resin and the techniques I've learned over time. That's what brought me here!

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Transcripts

1. Intro: 2. Resin Basics & Safety: Hey, what's up, everybody? I'm Hailey Patricia, the creator behind present Eva, and thank you so much for tuning in. I really wish that I would have invested in something like this over a year ago because it would have saved me a ton of time and money in the long run. This tutorial will definitely prove useful if you're a beginner, but it will also prove useful if you're an experience resin artist who just wants to learn a new technique before we dive into the how to. I'd like to go over some basics about resin, some safety precautions and, of course, the materialist. I only to make your oceans look like I highly recommend you watch this tutorial all the way through at least once before diving in on your own. Resonant is an amazing and versatile material it could be used to create. Abstract designs could be used to call your artwork to give it a glass like finish. It can be poured into molds to create pretty much any shape, and it can also be used to preserve your most precious keepsakes. Today we're gonna be adding color to a resin, applying some heat to it and creating a fabulous paper realistic ocean. First, let's talk safety. You'll want to work in a very well ventilated area based on personal experience. Some resins give off more fumes and others, and just because you don't smell them doesn't necessarily mean that they're not. They're high quality. Resin by itself does not give off anything they need to worry about. But once you start adding colorants and applying heat, it changes the chemical makeup. So why not just be safe? I recommend that you get a respirator. You'll need a chemical cartridge respirator versus a particular respirator because these ones have cartridges that filter the air from chemicals versus just particles like dust. This is the one that I bought on Amazon. This is the 1st 1 that I have ever got. It's called Breathe, Buddy. It's really great. I've only had to replace the filters a couple times. They're actually overdue to be replaced. After using resin for quite a while and learning more about safety, I decided that I need to protect my eyes to I get very, very close to my resin pieces to catch dust and to see if it's level things like that. So I'm wondering if these fumes are leaching into my eyes as well. So I invested in a full face respirator again. Chemical gas mask versus particulate respirator. Um, this is good for your lungs and your eyes. I know it looks crazy. It's got a little strap on the back that keeps your head, and it's pretty heavy. It hurts my neck after a little while, but I'm rather be safe than sorry every time. Gloves are an absolute must resident is just very messy to work with. You could be the most organized person on the planet, but you're still gonna get residents somewhere on your hands, on your arms anywhere. So I highly recommend wearing long sleeves and wearing gloves. I work outside in Florida, so I actually don't wear long sleeves. But I've already experimented and know that I don't get chemical reactions on my skin if I accidentally have contact, so I'm not as worried about it. There's some people out there with severe allergies and sensitive skin who react much worse than I do what type of gloves I recommend getting Nigel gloves, these air chemically resistant versus latex gloves. However, I know that they're not as easy to come back. So if you absolutely cannot find any natural gloves or even if you have an allergy, you can find out what works best for you. What works best for your skin. If you absolutely have to use latex, I have. These is a backup at all times. Um, just double up on them double. So you wear too two gloves on each hand, which also works for me. Sometimes if if my glove gets really messy with President, they could whip it right off. And I have another one ready to go, you know, instead of having to stop what I'm doing, but another global 3. Supplies Needed: Firstly, you're going to need some resin. My go to is masa pox ease their an amazing company with high quality products, and they're really also work with their tabletop. Pro is my favorite for making waves and for creating functional art such as cheese boards and serving trays. They also have a low viscosity, UV resistant art pro resin, which is perfect for coding your artwork to help combat the yellowing process. For this simple tutorial, we will just be using tabletop. I'm using an eight by eight inch cradled wood panel. I prefer using wood over canvas because it's starter. Resin can be heavy and will pull up in the center of your canvas. Unless you properly support the backside. You'll want to be working on a surface that is easy to clean up. I buy heavy duty trash bags, cut them in half and take them down on my work surface. The cured resin peels right off. You'll need some painter's tape. We're going toe line the edges of our wood panel so the resin drips fall right off. Having a flat level surface is crucial for resin pouring. If your piece isn't 100% level you'll come back the next day to your beautiful design, having shifted and completely ruined. A simple bubble level will do the trick, but I personally prefer using my bubble level app. Maybe that's millennial on me that just finds it easier to use. But it's worked great so far, and it's free to use in the APP store. You'll need to have a dust cover in place. This is for when you're done with your resin peace and need to protect it from particles like dust and hair getting stuck in the peace while it's curing. I keep a few objects around that are the same height. Like a few stacks of cups. I play some around the piece and then take a larger flatter objects and place it on top. I then use several cut up trash bags and drink them all over the sides, constantly checking on the peace for stray particles before leaving it to cure. You'll need some basic acrylic paints and a brush to make the under painting and for finishing the edges all be using a blue, turquoise and sand color and for the edges. I have this titanium white for this project, were using real sand, but that's totally optional. You can follow along this tutorial and just paint in your sand, or use a natural grain of the wood as a background. I've done this in several pieces, and they turned out great. If you want to make your beach look like mine, you'll need some sand and some matte finish mod podge. The map part is important because we don't want her sand to look glossy. You'll need at least one measuring cup and several mixing cups. I love these silicone measuring cups I found on Amazon. They're flexible and have all the measurements I need on the sides, and the resin just peels right off. I got this pack of small cups, which are great for mixing colors and also propping our work up. Next, you'll need starting sticks. I started out using Popsicle sticks but found them difficult to reuse. I try my best to reduce my waist, so I like recycling tools as best as I can. I found that using plastic cutlery has proven the most versatile and reusable. Next, you'll need some colorants. I will be using fluid acrylic inks by the company. Golden. I'll be using teal for my lighter color and indigo for my darker color. You can choose from a wide range of colorants for resin such as mica Powder Alcohol Inc. Resin pace, etcetera. You can even use eyeshadow if you really want to. This is my magic ingredient for making cells in my waves. It's called casting craft white pigment paste, and I got on Amazon and I love it. Nothing has worked as well as this pace. It's specifically formulated to work with resin. It's heavily pigmented, and this little ounce bottle has lasted forever. It's probably the 2nd 1 that I've ever bought. Next, you're gonna need a heat gun for moving around the resin and popping bubbles. This is an essential tool that creates our classic wave technique. I like this particular he gun because it has varying speeds and temperatures for a project . Today we need a strong speed in order to push our waves out, but I also have smaller, more delicate projects like my mini seashells are like having a slower speed as an option. Finally, I recommend getting a torch. It's not 100% necessary, but it does make things a lot easier enforces air bubbles to rise and pop much quicker than a heat gun does. It can also help informing extra large cells in your ocean. Here I have a simple crumble, a torch. A lot of artists have really large butane torches, but this one will do just fine. It also has bearing flame settings. 4. Canvas Prep: Okay, so we're going to start with our blank wood panel. We're gonna take the sides with a painter's tape that's just a little bit thicker than the depth of the panel. This allows all the resin drips to flow right past the edges without sticking to the bottom of the panel. In a lot of my square pieces, I tend to let the colors run over the sides to give a live edge effect. But in this tutorial, we're going to paint those edges white for a crisp, clean and final piece. Make sure to apply pressure as you apply the tape, especially the corners, as resin has a tendency to bleed down. If you have a thinner tape that you can wrap it around twice as you can see, my canvas is sitting on some small paper cups. It's just one of many ways that you can proper campus up, so the resin drips of somewhere to fall. Now we're going to do what is the equivalent of an outline for a resin piece by painting it in acrylics first. Although this is a simple design, it's best to map out where you want your colors to fall so that you're not guessing later. Applying a layer of acrylic paint also serves as a primer for the resin, which can prevent bleeding, warping and uneven carrying. As stated in the beginning, I'm using some simple craft pain I had laying around. It doesn't have to be the exact match to the pigments for your reason, but as long as it's close, it'll be fine. I will be using a turquoise and Othello blue tint for my resin, so these two colors will be fine for the under painting. Next, we're gonna mix our sand. We're gonna mix one part sand to one part Matt Pudge at the sand to the mod podge and mix it up really well. When you add the sand, make sure to your canvas. I recommend using a spoon so you will be able to scoop out a good amount at a time and let it drip onto the campus. You'll see it kind of spread out on its own, but you can use this boon to spread it out evenly to all the edges and to make it line up with the Sandline that we painted earlier. This is going to take a few hours to dry. You must wait for it to be fully dry before adding your resin, or you'll risk it moving around and drawing unevenly. 5. Measuring & Mixing : all right. Now that our sand has dried, we can start adding pigments to our cups. In my first cup, I add a few drops of teal acrylic ink and the second cup. I do a couple drops of indigo. I add a drop of teal to the end ago, just to make sure the colors blend together a little better. In my third cup, I add some of my cast and craft white pigment. I use this a little more liberally because I want my white mixture to be as thick as possible without jeopardizing the consistency. I add one little drop to the teal to brighten it up even more. A mistake I made a lot in the beginning was waiting until after a mixed my resin toe add pigments to my cups. We want to do this first because it will save you a lot of time. All resins have a certain working time before they begin caring, so you want to reserve as much of that time as you can for the fun part. Most resins I've used come in to part mixtures, but always double check with the manufacturer first before pouring out of all this expensive product, So I have my silicone mixing cup here for this project. I'm using about five ounces total. So with the little measurements on the side. Aiken First Port, 2.5 ounces of partner than 2.5 ounces of present. This particular brand of resin that I'm working with is really great because they have an online calculator that you can punch in the dimensions of your canvas, plus the thickness that you want. And it will calculate the exact amount of resin that you will need. I always round up announcer to so that I can pour any access into moves that I have laying around. It's better to have extra than not enough. Start mixing your resin and slow movements, always scraping the sides and the bottom as you go. Each manufacturer has its own guidelines for how many minutes you should start, but my general rule is keep starring until you no longer see the little threads of resin, and it's completely clear for added measure. Poor the entire mixture into a separate cop and mix another minute or two towards the end of your mixing. It should look a little something like this. All of the micro bubbles are okay. We can torch and eat them out later on. So now we're gonna measure out our resin into our cups. The golden ratio for mixing pigments in tourism is always tend to one. Adding too much pigment can make your mixture really goopy and affect the curing process. Not adding enough will make your layer very transparent. I only poor about announce of present into my white cup a little bit goes a long way, and we won't need an awful lot when you measure your resident. Make sure you have a little bit left over at the end because we're going to need some clear resin toe. Apply our wave, so keep that to the side. For now, make sure to scrape the sides and bottom of each cup when mixing your colors to get the most out of each pigment. This will also help avoid clumps and transparent layers where you don't want them 6. Pouring Resin: All right, you guys, it's time to pour. This is usually when my heart rate goes up a little bit, so we're going to start with our darkest color. What you're gonna do is coat the top third of the canvas. Make sure to coat the corners and the edges. Next, we're going to pour down our teal resin. Basically fill in the space between the fellow blue and where the sand is except you leave a little bit of space between the lowest point of the teal resin and the line remade the sand. This is where we will pour our wave next. So you want to leave some space now that all of our ocean colors air down, we're gonna heat them up a little bit with the torch to pop Some of those bubbles never hold the torch over one spot as you can easily burn the resin. Always move the flame back and forth and a swift motion to heat up the surface as a whole rather than one particular spot. Next, we're gonna take a gloved finger and mix those two colors together. Of course, you can use a starring stick for this, but I feel like I get a better, more cohesive blend with my finger. I think this is where that little bit of extra resume come in handy. Take the clear resin and start drizzling it along the bottom line of the teal. Present in the same direction as the Sandline. You shouldn't quite yet be poring over the sand lines or try and leave a little bit more room for the white to go down next. This is a common step that most beginners will miss, and it's super important because it allows the white pigment to more easily move across the canvas and make those beautiful cells carefully. Pour the white resident directly along the Sandline and flowing movement so as not to let any of the pigment pull up in one spot. I usually pour off all of my white resin that I mix because I like to have a thick, foamy layer. If you prefer less foam and more, sells tripe or now only half of your mixture. Next, take your heat gun and get ready to adjust it to the highest speed aiming at the wave and gently sweep over each part in order to heat and loosen it up, slowly approached the waves section by section and pushed the way pigment upwards in a rebelling effect. Once it's moved upward by the heat gun slightly to the higher points. Remember to always used swift movements and never stay in one section too long or you'll burn the resin. Sometimes you might end up pushing too much of the white away from the shoreline, so you can just scrape a little bit of extra way from your cup and carefully dripping onto those boats. Butts. Another common rookie mistake is not knowing when to quit. Once you push your waves outside the heat, gun down and let the cell start popping up on their own. This is a good time to use your torch if you have one to pop their meaning bubbles, assholes, force outs and bigger cells. You can also pick your campus up and slightly tilted forward or backward to get some more movement. Be careful doing that and make sure when you set the canvas back down that it remains on a level surface. Otherwise, you will come back tomorrow and it will all be ruined. I'm gonna replay what we just did at a higher speed to show you how much work the resident does on its own. After that initial use of the heat, gun and torch. Now it's time to leave your piece alone, cover it up and leave it undisturbed for a minimum of 24 hours. Each brand of resin has its own carry instructions, so follow them carefully. Even if the surface looks like it's fully hardened, it might still be susceptible to scratches, dents and pieces of dust getting stuck. 7. Finishing Touches: our pieces finally dried and she's beautiful. Now let's make her display ready. The best way to remove tape is to apply heat. I'm gonna carefully use my heat gun and do this side by side, trying my best not to touch the cured resin surface as it's still pretty delegate. - Now I'm gonna paint the edges of plain white. I believe this is the best choice because it ties in with white wave and overall brightens up the peace. 8. Final Product: That is the end of my tutorial. I really hope you guys found it useful and you enjoyed it. I really hope you follow along with me on Instagram. I hope to create more and more tutorial videos for you guys. As I learned them as I holding on my skill as I get better at what I do, I get very excited and I just want to share with you guys. So thank you again so much and have some fun.