2. Setting the Stage: - That's bad holding. - Okay, - We're gonna be doing an evening. - Look, - um, - something that would work Really beautiful on the red carpet. - So I'm gonna be doing a smoky eye on Sarah here. - Our model and what I do after I finished the foundation and concealer and powder kind of - set her face, - we're gonna start with the brows. - I brushed him out and I filled him in using a Mac brow pencil. - It's called lingering, - and this sort of frames the face. - When you're feeling in the brow, - you want to go darker on the outer corners and keep the inner corners a little bit lighter - because you will bring the eyebrows in close together and the eyes will look like they're - close together if they're too dark right here. - So you want to keep more of the darkness and more of the product towards the outer corner - and you want to extend outward a little bit to extend the I outward? - Just go very softly towards the inner ground. - Before I start this smoky eye, - I'm gonna determine the shape of her eyes and what kind of shape I want to go for. - So she has a pretty almond shaped eye. - So I think I'm gonna go with a caddy Caddy, - I a smoky eye that is shaped more like a cat. - I'm going to start out with an eye shadow base. - This is from Sigma. - It's called Composed. - It's a soft brown shade. - I'm going to start out with applying that all over the eyelid. - And what this does is it's going to create a base for the powder eyeshadow. - But it's also going to create a thicker texture by having two layers of product on the eyes - . - I just go up to the crease. - With that, - you can use a flat brush to apply this product. - I'm using this Sigma Shader lid and e 56. - Once you apply this product, - you want to just blend it with a clean brush. - You could also see I've applied some powder underneath her eyes to catch whatever falls. - When we're working on the eyes, - I'm gonna highlight her brow bone with a sheer golden color. - This is the I am gland by Gela I later you don't want to go too shimmery or two shiny up - here. - You want to keep it a little bit sheer natural looking Okay, - now I'm going to start using a powder eye shadow over her lid. - This is a Tom Ford eyeshadow palette. - It is Quad cognac stable. - I always like to tap off the excess on my hand before, - so it's a cleaner application. - I'm going to just go over that Sygma cream shadow. - This smoky eye is going to be more of a bronzy, - smoky eye. - You can go with more grayish, - more black colors. - This one is more bronzy. - It's a little bit softer, - but it's beautiful for evening. - Do you want to take that right up to the crease? - And then I'm going to use a clean brush again, - and I'm gonna blend over here in the crease so that there's no harsh lines, - a smoky eye. - It's very important that there's no harsh lines in a smoky eye. - You want everything to really smoke out and blend out beautifully. - Now, - as I'm blending out the eye shadow, - I'm also pushing out and upwards to create more of a cat effect. - Using the lighter gold shade from the same pilot, - I'm going to just highlight the center of her eyelid. - This just opens up the eyes, - creates a pretty effect, - and then I'm going to blend that as well, - with a clean brush 3. Achieving Smoky Eyes: - Okay. - Okay. - So now that we've got the eye shadow on the top of the lid, - we're going to go with a pencil. - Eyeliner. - Islander is very important when you're working with smoky eye and I'm going to start on the - inner corner. - This is the Mac pencil and smolder. - I'm gonna go very close to the lash line. - This is a great pencil because it's easy to blend, - and it has a lot of pigment in it. - Now towards the outer corners, - I'm going up a little bit higher and thicker to create that cat hai effect And to get to - the very inner corners, - you want to always look the opposite way and up so you can get your pencil right in there. - Now I'm going to blend this eyeliner using a little blending brush. - This is a smash box brush. - I'm just going to blend the top part of the liner up into the eye shadow. - Sometimes when people line their eyes, - they don't go very close to the lash line. - And when you open the eyes, - you can see your eyelid and you want to try to avoid that. - You want to try to go very close into the lash line to create that definition and then - blended upward and outward into the shadow. - So you see, - now the smoky effect is we're starting to create the smoky effect by having the dark go - into the lighter. - Now, - for extra definition, - I'm gonna line her eyes a second time using a liquid liner. - This is the Mac, - the good liner and very close to the lash line. - Again, - I'm going to line one more time. - This creates more pigment and a beautiful definition to the I, - and it darkens up this smoky eye working with smoky eyes. - Islander is really important because you want to create that definition, - and you wanna have that gradual, - you know, - going from dark to light on the eyes. - The reason why I'm using now liquid eyeliner above is again to really define the I and get - the roots of the eyelashes. - Very dark, - the base of the lids, - and you want to make sure that the eyeliner is blend herbal, - sometimes liquid liners or not, - you cannot blend them. - You want to make sure that the liquid island or you're using is able to blend into the eye - shadows using a clean brush. - I'm just gonna blend outer corners here and pushed him out. - Now, - from this point, - you can determine whether you want to go with a stronger, - smoky eye or not. - You could leave it like this, - or you can go by adding some more dark shadows towards the outer or inner corners of the - eye. - I'm going to use a black match shadow and just apply some more towards the outer corner of - her eyelids whenever you're doing this and whenever you're working, - especially with dark eye shadows like black, - do you want to put very little in the brush and you want to build on top of it. - You never want to start out with too much because you can't take it away. - So you want to start out with very little bit, - tap the excess off the brush and start leading it into the eye, - and then you can always add more after. - I'm just blending this now. - Same technique pushing it out when you're working with smoky eyes. - It's also important to keep building, - so I'm gonna go one more time now with the black smolder pencil and line the eyes close to - the lash to really give the lash line that dark black pigment And again I'm gonna blend - very softly. - Okay, - now I think the top of the I and all the ah Sha application on the eyelids is complete. - So we're going to start with curling the lashes. - Now, - before we go ahead to the bottom of the im, - it's very important to curl the lashes, - especially when you're doing a smoky eye because it really opens up the eyes. - Sometimes when you do a smoky eye, - the eye scan become smaller because of the black liner inside. - So, - by curling the lashes, - you're really opening up the eyes. - I'm going to apply mascara. - This is the Loreal luminous and carbon black, - and you want to start out by going very close to the base. - Really? - Get in the roots of the eyelashes and go upward with mascara. - You can also build as well, - just like with the eye shadow. - So throughout your application, - you can build on more mascara, - just making sure that it's not clumpy. - Now we're gonna determine what kind of false eyelash we're gonna use on her. - And since we're going with a more caddy, - I we're gonna use a caddy last. - This is called the 102 Demi from our del, - and it starts out very short on the inner corner and it goes out into a longer lash. - I'm using the duo glue and black, - and I'm going to apply the glue right along the strip. - But before I apply it to her, - I'm gonna make sure that it's almost dry completely that it's very tacky so that it stays - in place. - So you always want to wait about two minutes before you apply it to get the eyelash glue - very sticky, - A good tip when you're applying the glue to the last also to put a little bit more in each - corner on each corner of the eye left strip. - So that way it holds better. - You can use your fingers to apply it, - or you can use a tweezer. - I like to use my hands. - They're so that last six right away because we let it get a little bit tacky before we - applied it. - If you're going for a really dramatic I, - you can also build with lashes and apply either false individuals above that or another - strip. - I'm gonna keep her. - I like this. - I'm not going to go with more lash. - That's pretty full right now on long. - And then you want to marry the fall slash with the rial lashes. - So you're going to apply mascara to blend it all in together? - Okay, - now we're going to start doing the eyes on the bottom here. - So I'm going to take the blacks mother pencil and I'm going to line along her inner rim. - And it's smoky eyes really not complete until you line the interim of the eye with a dark - shade. - I'm going to take the pencil and I'm going to apply it right along her last line. - Get it a little bit lower and through the lash line that I'm gonna blend it with a clean - brush using a clean, - flat brush like this one. - Here. - I'm going to take that islander they just applied and just smudge it, - going downward and side to side. - A lot of times, - when people attempt this, - they wind up with raccoon eyes or with eyeliner that's smudging all down their eyes, - and to prevent that you want to use loose powder under the eyes. - So that's why I first apply that concealer and loose powder underneath her eyes. - And then I blended this over it so that there will be no sponging and so that it stays all - day and you don't want to be afraid to go. - Bring the color down if you keep it to thin. - It's not really a smoky eye. - You want to kind of bring that color down. - Don't be afraid. - Just little by little, - smudge it downward for that really sultry look now, - using that same bronze e Capri shade that I used on her eyelids on the top, - I'm going to I'm going apply it with a small brush along the bottom lash line as well right - on top of that pencil and using that same flat brush. - Now I'm gonna blend the two together, - the eye shadow and the pencil when I'm doing a smoky eye. - A lot of times I like to do a little bit lighter in the inner corners and darker towards - the outer corner on the top as well as the bottom. - So I'm gonna take the black pencil now, - and I'm going to just go with one more layer of the black along the outer corners So we - have that gradual, - you know, - shade of light going into dark. - I'm just gonna blend this outward. - Now, - at this point since I finished with all the powder eye shadows I'm going to sweep away that - excess powder and I shadow that fell down as we were working. - Just using a clean, - flat foundation brush like this, - clean up that area and with the same mascara. - I'm going to apply now to our bottom lashes. - I'm going to apply one more layer of mess car to the top as well. - Just to get that really dark lash using the I'm glam highlighter Nigella I'm going toe - highlight just a very inner corner of her eye to open and separate the eyes a little bit - And that's pretty much how we do a smoky eye Now, - just to summarize what we did with the smoky eye we used first a sheer golden shade of - highlighter up here on the brow bone. - Then we went with a cream eyeshadow, - a soft brown cream eyeshadow all over the island up to the crease. - Then we went over that with a bronze e coppery shade of powder eyeshadow blended everything - blended outward and upward to create this soft, - cat eyed effect. - And then we took eyeliner, - liquid and pencil, - and we applied it thicker on the outer corners, - thinner on the inner corners, - and we blended upward and outward, - and we took some dark matte black ish. - I don't applied it right here towards the outer corners. - Applied mascara, - false lashes, - black eyeliner, - pencil inside, - smudged into the lower lash line and the same color bronzy capri shadow smudge along the - lower lash line as well. 4. Contour and Highlights: - Okay, - So before you start contouring and highlighting a face, - you want to determine where on the face you need to contour. - And also what kind of brush your using on the shade of bronzer that you're going to use to - cons work on Sarah's face? - I'm gonna contour her forehead and go along the hairline to kind of shorten and and make - the forehead a little smaller and as well warm up the skin tone. - So I'm going to use smash box bronzer and suntanned Matt, - You wanna have a bronzer that's not to read, - not to yellow. - It has a little bit of gray in it as well, - just to prevent from looking orangey. - And you want to brush. - That's about medium sized brush like this, - and that is tapered so that you could easily blend into the hairline. - Now, - if you're working with the client or model that has a very small forehead, - you're gonna probably not do this along the upper hairline here because it's going to make - it even smaller. - So just brushing this bronzer right into the hairline and blending it into the forehead - here eventually, - we're gonna have a three shape over here on both sides. - You want to make sure you get right into the temple area as well. - And you want this area along the hairline to be a little bit darker than this area here. - So you always start by going along the hairline and then blending it into the forehead. - Also, - when contouring, - you don't want to use a brush that's too big. - A lot of people use a powder brush, - and you don't want to use a brush that's too big because you're not gonna be able to get - into the hairline easily. - It's gonna kind of cover the whole forehead. - And also you want to keep the whole center of the forehead here without only bronze, - or you want that area to be light and highlighted. - So no contour right here in the center. - Now I'm gonna contour her cheeks and I'm gonna go right along the Hollows of her cheeks. - So an easy way to do it is by having them suck in their cheeks a little bit. - Yeah, - and that will kind of guide you, - and you just apply it going from the top of the ear downward, - right along the halls of the cheeks. - that's gonna make the cheeks recede in here and give you a nice high cheekbones. - And when you're contouring, - it's very, - very important to start out with a little bit and build. - You don't want to start out with a lot because it can get very money looking or dirty - looking. - Also, - you want to make sure that the face is powder before you start applying any contour, - any putters on the face so that it blends easily. - Now I'm going to go right along her jawline with the same contour bronzer under the chin. - Okay, - so what this is doing? - It's warming up the skin, - and it's also now creating more definition along her jawline. - Putting some dark bronze or here also lifts this area up here and thins out the chin area. - And then you always want remember to go down the neck as well. - Some mistakes that people make with contouring is using too much contouring powder using - too much bronzer. - Or sometimes you use a cream product to to contour and it's not necessary. - So you always want to make sure that you're using just a very little bit and you're - building on top a lot of times, - you'll see that people attempted to contour and you'll see that the skin looks very muddy. - There's a little patches of dark spots on the skin. - That's because you're using a product that's too dark and you're using it on skin That's - not powdered. - Now, - if you want to get a sharp kind of line here and create a high cheek bone, - you can take some loose powder with the velour puff and just apply it right below that - contour to create a sharper effect on the cheek here to really give her high cheekbones. - Now I'm going to contour her nose a little bit and using a brush like this, - this is a Vincent Long will brush. - It's very soft and tapered. - I'm going to start out. - They're going right below her brow on the inner corner and dragging the brush down along - the sides of her news. - This sickness could be a little tricky. - The first time I attempted it at a photo shoot, - it was a big mess. - It looked like a big, - muddy mess on the nose. - So you want to make sure you go with very little bit product and softly along the sides of - the nose, - and then you can always build on by adding a little bit more product. - If you want it to be more contra or darker, - you can also brush some right here on the bottom. - What that does is it lifts the nose a little bit now, - using a light colored powder. - This is just a, - um, - Matt press powder. - I'm going to highlight the bridge of the nose here. - You can also use something that has shimmer or a little bit of a shine to it. - But you want to be careful with that on the nose. - So I like to use a product that's Matt. - Now I'm going to highlight her cheekbones and using the I am glam all over highlighter by - Gela going to take a brush that's sort of full but smaller, - like a very small blush brush or a very large eye shadow brush that's tapered. - And I'm going to apply it right here, - right on the cheekbone, - going up towards the temple, - but not all the way to the hairline. - For daytime, - you would highlight using something that's a little more Matt or a little more natural. - But since we're doing an evening. - Look, - I'm using something that has, - uh, - shine to it so that the skin looks very youthful and glowing. - And I'm gonna take a little bit of the same highlighter and just apply it Cupid's bow of - the lip a little bit on the center of the chin. - This sort of highlights the center of the face and makes the lips a little bit bigger. - So now that I've got the contour and highlight complete, - I'm going to add some color to her cheeks were gonna do blush eso The way I like to do it - is have her smile and I'm using the orgasm blush by Nars with a brush like this and just - right on the apples of the cheeks, - You want to keep the color a little bit higher. - You don't want to go below the Hollows of the cheeks. - You want that blush to kind of blend into that bronzer that I applied on the hollowed out - cheeks earlier. - So to summarize the contour and highlighting, - what we did is we used a mat bronzer that has a little bit of grain. - It not too much red, - not too much yellow All along the hairline here, - Not not putting it in the center of the forehead, - just along the sides here, - along the hairline, - on the Hollows of the cheeks and all along the Jor line underneath the chin and into the - neck. - Here we took highlighter with a little bit of shimmer, - and we applied it over here on the tops of the cheekbones and a little bit on the cupid bow - of the mouth. - And we use a mat highlighter, - just a simple white powder or light colored powder along the bridge of the nose and a - little bit of bronzer along the sides of the nose to contour. - And we use the Nars blushes orgasm right on the apples of the cheeks. - So you have the client smile and you apply it right along the apples of the cheeks. - Not not going below the contour line here. - You want to go a pyre 5. Nude Lips and Finishing Touches: - you would lift and you want to determine now first the shape of the lips, - You can actually change the shape of the lips by using concealer or foundation. - So what I'm gonna do here is I'm going to apply a little bit of a concealer just along the - outer corners of her lips to really give them a nice point and make them go upward more. - Now, - this also helps with keeping lipstick in place so that it doesn't lead because I'm gonna - going to apply powder now loose powder right above that to set it and prevent the lip color - from bleeding. - I'm going to start out with a lip liner and a very neutral color. - This is the Kevin Kwan lip liner In medium. - You want the lip liner to be a couple of shades deeper than your natural lips. - So you want a line all around the entire lip Now, - taking a clean brush, - I'm gonna blend that liner up towards the center of the lip a little bit. - Same with the top part. - I'm gonna blend it down towards the center of the upper lip, - having the center of the lips a little bit lighter than the outer side of the lips is gonna - create a bigger lip, - more pouty lips. - Now I'm gonna go into a creamy lipstick. - I'm going to use a soft, - peachy beige sort of shade and apply that to both bottom and top lips. - And if I want to lighten up the lip, - I want to light up the lip color a little bit. - I could go over it in the center here with foundation or concealer, - just to give it more of a nude, - muted color. - We finish off the lips with a very nude look, - plus from Tom Ford. - You can apply that on the center and blend it towards the outer corners. - There you have it to summarize the new lip. - What we did was we reshape the lips a little bit by adding concealer to the outer corners - here. - Toe lift up the lips into a point, - and we also applied powder over that to prevent the lipstick and lip gloss from leading. - Then we lined the lips on the top and bottom, - blended that into the center of the lip and applied a very nude lipstick with a new lip - gloss on the center of the lip on the top and bottom. - You want to always start out with using a little bit of product and building on top so you - can prevent messing up. - If you use too much product, - or if you go to dark or heavy, - you're not gonna be able to go backwards. - So you always want to start out like I did, - using very little product and building on top to create more of a finished dramatic look. - So here we have it. - A beautiful, - smoky eye. - She's ready for a night on the town or to hit the red carpet.