Quick & Dirty Sewing: Make a Zippered Pouch | Miranda Harper | Skillshare

Quick & Dirty Sewing: Make a Zippered Pouch

Miranda Harper, Seamstress/Cosplayer

Play Speed
  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x
6 Lessons (25m)
    • 1. Welcome to Make a Zippered Pouch

      0:43
    • 2. Supplies

      0:55
    • 3. Marking and Cutting

      6:39
    • 4. Sewing the Zipper

      7:14
    • 5. Sewing the Body, Lining and Turning Out

      8:42
    • 6. Wrapping Up

      0:32
16 students are watching this class

About This Class

In this class, you'll learn how to measure out pattern pieces, sew a very basic zipper, and sew a bag lining. Use your zippered pouch to hold your stuff; paintbrushes, makeup, pencils, dog treats, people treats, anything!

Supplies needed:

1/4-1/3 yard of main fabric in a mid weight (calico, quilting cotton, bottom weight twill, canvas, light denim)

1/4-1/3 yard of lining fabric (use a cotton and not a polyester garment lining as it will be easier to sew)

Thread to match your main fabric

12inch zipper

Basic tools: pins, zipper, sewing machine

A couple of my shots at the sewing machine are shaky! I am so sorry about that in advance. While you guys are learning sewing, I'm learning filming. Let's learn together!

Transcripts

1. Welcome to Make a Zippered Pouch: Hello. Welcome to quick and dirty sewing. Today we're gonna learn how to make a zippered pouch. In this class, you'll learn basic skills on how to add a zipper. How does so A very basic lining and how to turn sharp corners. I'm gonna make my zipper pouches a pencil case, but you could make your Sifford pouch into anything you want. A makeup bag, a toy bag, purse, wallet, nick neck bag, whatever you would like. If you have any questions about the class, please add them to the discussions page, and I will answer them as soon as I can. And as best as I can, I hope you enjoy this class and let's watch the next video about supplies and get started. 2. Supplies: First, we'll talk about the supplies you'll need. You'll need 1/4 to 1 30 yard of your main fabric, the same amount of your lining fabric for these fabrics. You'll want to pick something that is a mid to mid heavyweight, like a quilter's cotton. Or even if you want to go to a lightweight denim that is also good for the lining. You want to pick something that slightly lighter weight than your main fabric. For my have actually picked two fabrics that were the same weight, a zipper that is 12 inches long and my zipper. Actually, I haven't randomly in my sewing box, and it's 18 inches long. So I'm going to show you what a shortness zipper, the only scissors pins red to match your main fabric and a ruler to measure and cut your pieces, which I'm going to show you how to do. In the very next video 3. Marking and Cutting: So our first step is gonna be marking and cutting. This is where you're going to cut out the actual pieces to use for your zippered. Publish what you're going to need for this step. Our sisters, your see through grid ruler and a marking. I'm going to use a Sharpie just so you can see the lines. I'm making a little bit better, but I don't recommend that you use a Sharpie for your project. You should use either an ink pen or even better in air. Erase herbal marking pen my finished pouch. I want to be 10 inches by six inches. So when the step, I'm gonna cut to pieces of main fabric and two pieces of a lining fabric that are actually 11 inches by seven inches. And I do that so that there is 1/2 inch seam allowance all the way around each piece. You can, of course, make your pouch any size that you prefer. This is just the size that I wanted to make today. So you see, I have my main fabric laid out with the right side down and I've got my ruler and what I'm gonna do here we call squaring, which is where I line up the flat edge of my ruler with the salvage edge which a salvage edges that white ed you see running along there and I'm going to mark up seven inches. Now I'm going Teoh Square, a line that's 11 inches going to market there and then draw down another seven inches near my two sides. I'm gonna do the 11 inch fied, and I'm gonna line the grid lines up my ruler to meet the lines that I just made so that I know my line is perfectly straight because I just lined it up or we call squared it off. Uh, with my work, I'm really trying to keep my hands out of the way. So you could see now I'm gonna do the second side. I'm gonna measure down from that line that I just drew seven inches and I squared it up. No, but I know my lines are perfectly straight squared up on the other side. Why? I love grid rulers so much because you could make sure your lines air perfectly straight. The last line. Now my main pieces are marked there. Now I'm going to cut out my main pieces along the lines that I drew Emily gonna cut around the big square. I'm not gonna cut down the middle separating two pieces and you'll find out why in a minute . So after I'm finished cutting this, I'm just gonna have one big square and now going to cut my lining pieces. We'll grab my lining fabric here, and it's a scrap, so it looks kind of funny. I've used it for other things. I'm going to lay out my main piece that I just cut on to this lining fabric. I'm gonna match up to sell the judges, which, if you remember, are the edges of the wits of the fabric actually going to, I think, turn it over so I can see the lines made. Yeah. Now I can see that middle line that I drew now going to cut around the edge of the main fabric to get a lining piece that is the same size. And if this is too hard for you, don't have to use my method. You can mark out your lining fabric in the same way that you marked out your main fabric. Try not to put yourself I'm only cutting through a single layer right now. Single layer of lining fabric just to get a square. That's the same size and the main piece. What part is done now? I'm going to cut through both layers down that center line that I drew with the Sharpie. So when I get four pieces of the same size, I have to lining pieces and two main pieces that are the same size. I am going to iron them. So there are people free and then I'm going to 4. Sewing the Zipper: Now we're going to learn how to sew the zipper and the main pieces. Well, the first thing I have to do is shorten my zipper because it is too long. So I'm going to mark how long it is supposed to be, which is 12 inches. I'm just gonna make two tiny little dots so that I can use him as a guy. Now, I'm gonna do a zigzag stitch across the zipper to make a Bartek. And here are the settings for that. That my marks, and I'm gonna set it up. I have regular foot on there right now. I don't need a zipper foot right away. Someone's gonna use this, not go back and forth really slow. Um, I have to use the hand wheel, the turnovers, a zipper teeth just so it doesn't get stuck. And then I used the back stitch lever to go back over the dipper and then I let the back steps over. Go on. I'm come forward again, and then I do that a couple more times, so there's a good amount of stitching there. What that does that makes a new engine stiffer so it won't zip past Where I've just sewn and then I'm gonna cut the end off leave. Probably about 1/4 of an inch after the Fred. So not that much. I'm just gonna cut the rest of this up, my zipper ready, and I'm going to unzip it. So separated. I'm gonna lay it face down on to the right side of this fabric now, okay? Air is make sure it's lined up really well. I'm gonna pin it down. I'm being at my pinning because before I don't know how to pin by now, right? Sure. Okay. Now, when you use a straight stitch and hear my settings for that and I'm using, I'm changing out my foot to a zipper foot. Yeah. Okay, So when I start sewing, what I'm going to do is see this edge I'm pointing to there that ended up foot needs to line up right along the edge of the zipper teeth and that will make sure that thread gets as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Tom speeding this up as I go on, I'm pulling my pins out as I go so that I don't get tripped up on one. Then when you get to the end right where the zipper pull is. You're gonna have to kind of go around it a little bit. Just gets closer, You can do the teeth, then back such a little bit. Pull it out clip. And that is what it should look like. So now I'm gonna put on my lining piece. I have the zipper face down again on the right side of the fabric. I'm going to take this fabric and I'm going to sandwich the zipper in between these two pieces of fabric. So what I'm going to actually do is so another line again similar to the 1st 1 just on the lining side attaching the zipper to the lining And I'm gonna pin it and I'm gonna beat it up so you don't have to watch me forever. Enamel connect. Let's go. The sewing machine. Here we are. And I'm gonna run that same edge of the foot along the tape of the zipper and you kind of have to feel it out, just like I did before again. Kind of have to just feel it out. Pull my pins out as I go. Hey, I'm to the end and I'm going to back stitch and you know, you will see that it has one side of lining. You can't see the edge of the zipper at all. Just so now I'm gonna do the same process again for the other side of the zipper. So I'm gonna make sure my zipper is space down with the right side of my fabric face up. And just to make sure my sides or even I just kind of pull the other side up a little bit just to make your the edges are meeting up now in the zipper tape down fabric, just like I did before on the other side. So it with the edge of the foot as close to the zipper tape as possible, just like I did on the other side. I'm speeding up his video because, you know, sometimes it's boring to watch people. So for a long period of time, a back a little bit. Well, that clip. And now I'm going to do the other side of the lining where I will do just like I did before and sandwich that zipper between the two layers and come back and so again and I feel for the edge of that super where the teeth are and just get that foot close as possible to where those teeth are. And again when you get to the pole of the zipper, just go around it as best you can. They're getting, and with pool is just go around. Okay, Now I have all my pieces in place. You can see where the edges are opening up. There's the lining side in front side and then it should look like this. 5. Sewing the Body, Lining and Turning Out: So now we've come to the last section which is so in the body, so in the lining and turning the pouch right side out. So I've got my piece laid out here on the table. I'm gonna unzip the zipper, so I have a place to turn it out. When I finished sewing, I'm gonna grab the two main body pieces and I'm gonna fold him up just like this. And I just picked him up together and now gonna pin these two sides together, you know? And I spent the video while I was pinning because you don't need to see me again. So what I'm doing is I'm just going around the edge, pitting down the two pieces of the main fabric together. When I get to a corner, I'm pinning at an angle a little bit, so that just makes it easier for me to turn corners while I'm sewing. And the pins don't get in the way as much. We don't have to be. Keep sitting. Just keep spinning right here. We're at the sewing machines. I'm changing my foot to a regular foot. Okay. And then when I start sewing, I'm going to push this seems of the right side of the body of the fabric towards the lining parts. You can kind of see it there. And I'm gonna start as close to that Seimas I can get. I'm sewing half inch scenes. I'm gonna use the hand wheel, started to get going, and then I sped up selling part. When I get to a corner, I turn needle down with the hand wheel so that it stays in one place. And then I picked up the foot up. I might turn the fabric. And then I said to put back down, I start going again. They come up at the next corner, right, turned the deal down with the hand wheel to get up from the fabric and start going again a great way to get a nice, sharp corner. So I'm gonna go as close as I can to the seem They're gonna go over the scene just a little bit before I backstage and pull this out and put the threads. But before I start sowing the lining down, I want to make sure that my back is gonna turn out the right way. So I grabbed the body. The fabric through the zipper that I left open and kind of pull it right side out and show me the lining down in there just to make sure that it's gonna look OK. So now I am going to put the corners on the right side of my bag on the clipping the corner . Take some of the bulky fabric out of this so that when I turn the turn it right that out. I don't have a bunch of fabric in this very nice, sharp corner that I'm trying to get. It'll just les nice and flat, and anything that you buy that has corners on it have had this done, whether it's a shirt collar or a bag or whatever. So I clipped as close as I can to the stitching. We call it, too, but not through. Do you flip to the stitching, but not through it. I leave a little bit there, and I'm kind of curving around a little bit, even take some of the steam out of the side seams there a little bit from the allowance out of there. Just to take more bulk out, which I finished that I'm gonna start pending the lining, and I'm gonna do it exactly the same way as I pinned the body of the fabric. Except for one thing. And that is I'm going to leave open a section of the bottom where I will not so and that and so we can turn it all the way. Right side out. I just picked the two sides there right now back to the sewing machine. And I'm going to start again at that top scene where the differences and remember of the seam allowance from the lining from the main part of the fabric is pointing towards the lining from actually so over that when I start going and I'm a legal so to the last 10 that I put on that bottom edge And then I'm gonna back stitch when a clip of reds and then start a new line. I'm sewing at 10 at the other end of that gap. Well, that part is done. So now once I get all my pens out, I'm going to clip the corners of the lining the same way I cook the corners of the body, and that is to take my scissors and cut to. But not through the stitching. I actually leave a little bit above the city, maybe like 1/4 8th of an inch, Something like that. And then I put away some of the seam allowance around the corner just to make it less bulky . So the corners are nice and clean. Now we're gonna turn this whole thing right, flight out and take a little shimmying. So I stick my hands through the gap that I've left in the lighting and I grabbed the body, the fabric, I pull it all the way through, and then I kind of worked my hands in there and I pushed the corners out like them myself. Sharp push the corners out lining. And then once I get all that, if you can put the lighting inside, make sure it's real nice. Once you get done with that, just pull the lining back out a little bit. You don't turn it back inside out or anything, pull the lining out, and then we're going to close the gap that's in there. So I'm gonna have to do that is I've just grab two corners and I want to give it a poll and , uh, the seam allowance will just kind of folded on itself. And then I'm gonna so right through that right over that little opening there when a pennant close to so I consoled a little better. But now we're back to the sewing machine for the very last step, which is to close this gap. And I'm going to start the line of 60 right where that first pin is, I'm gonna backs it and I'm gonna get as close to the edge as I can. Just get close to the disease as you think you can. If you want to use a zipper foot for this, you're welcome to do so. That's great for doing. But I'm just a regular when you get to the end. What you gonna do this kind of slide the fabric off off, up under the needle instead of just picking the needle up and cuttings Just slide it out. So you're gonna have you have, like, a little taper at the end of your stitching line. Okay, so now all you have to do is push the lining to the inside and then zip off your pouch, and then it's all done 6. Wrapping Up: So now you're all done and you have a lovely Zuber pouch to put things in. If you like this class, please leave a thumbs up. This increases the rating of my class and puts it higher up on the search page so that more people will find it. And this means more people will take my classes, which means I'll make more classes, which is what we all want. So stay tuned for more quick and dirty sewing classes. We will learn to make mortgage rate things.