Quick & Dirty Cosplay: Intro to Corsetry Drafting & Construction | Miranda Harper | Skillshare

Quick & Dirty Cosplay: Intro to Corsetry Drafting & Construction

Miranda Harper, Seamstress/Cosplayer

Quick & Dirty Cosplay: Intro to Corsetry Drafting & Construction

Miranda Harper, Seamstress/Cosplayer

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10 Lessons (1h 25m)
    • 1. Welcome!

    • 2. Supplies

    • 3. Drafting Part 1

    • 4. Drafting Part 2

    • 5. Fitting and Adjustment Part 1

    • 6. Fitting and Adjustment Part 2

    • 7. Cutting Fabric + Sewing the Shell

    • 8. Sewing the Boning and Lining

    • 9. Edging

    • 10. Lacing and Wrap Up

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About This Class

Corsets are staples in many costumes; from renaissance faires to super heroes to burlesque. In this class, we'll make a very basic underbust corset. Since this is a costume corset and is beginner level, we'll be using plastic boning with a fabric cover. There is minimal waist cinching. This class is CHALLENGING. Are you ready?

You'll learn to draft a pattern using your measurements, fit the pattern and adjust to your body and learn construction of the corset. A basic knowledge of sewing is required and there is some math involved. Don't worry about the math! I promise I explain everything. If you're brand new to sewing, check out my Quick & Dirty Sewing: Machine Crash Course for a rundown of the foundations of sewing.

Supplies needed:

-Shell fabric: twill, bottom weight or home décor- 1/2yd

-Lining fabric: cotton broadcloth- 1/2yd

-Interfacing: fusible- 1/2yd

-Paper for drafting: packing paper, paper grocery bag

-Scrap fabric: any kind but something you can mark on

-Wide single-fold bias tape: 1 package

-Covered boning: 3 yds

-1/4” Grosgrain ribbon: by-the spool or 4yds

-Tape measure

-Scissors (small clipping scissors optional)

-Thread to match shell fabric

-Seam ripper

-Pencil, eraser, marking pen



-Grid ruler

-French curve ruler

Let's do this!

Meet Your Teacher

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Miranda Harper



Well hey there! My name is Miranda and I teach sewing classes here on Skillshare. I've been sewing for almost 20 years, have degrees in Fashion Design and Fashion Merchandising and been a freelance seamstress/designer/tailor for almost 10 years making everything from prom dresses to swim wear to cowboy vests. I also have a day job as a graphic designer and I love to paint, cook, watch comic book TV shows and hang out with my dog.

I think sewing is an incredible skill that everyone should have, even if all you do is replace buttons and hem pants. Those things are important. When you take my classes, you'll learn basic skills to transfer to other sewing projects and I'll throw in a few industry tips to make your sewing life easier. Enjoy! 

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1. Welcome!: Hello, everyone. Welcome to Quick and dirty Cosplay. Intro to corsetry. If you've ever been interested in making courses for any kind of costume, welcome course it's are a big part of Renaissance Fair costumes and some superhero cost plays. You can also use them for burlesque or boudoir. What we're gonna make today is calling under bust corset. We're going to start here because it's the easiest one to draft. Is there no bust curves? It stops right under the bus, tends the name under bust. Course it. We're going to use ribbon loop placing in this one, the reason being that Ah Gromit setting tool can be a little bit expensive. A grandma are the little metal rings that outlined the holes where you would put laces. If you decide you enjoy this class and you want to make more horses, I would invest in a grommet setting tool for this particular class. We're just going to use the ribbon loops. What you'll learn today is how to take proper measurements, how to draft a custom pattern from scratch, using your measurements, how to fit a custom garment. How do you use and so boning and how to use on so biased tape. This class is very challenging, so don't get discouraged if you get stuck anywhere. Leave a question in the discussions page. Um, stop and start the videos as you need to. You might even watch a couple of videos all the way through. Before you start on the processes up next, we're going to talk about what kind of supplies were will lead, and we're going to jump on it. 2. Supplies: Okay, now let's go over our supplies. This is a big list, so bear with me here. First, you'll need a shell fabric that's a fabric for the outside of your courses. For this, I recommend a heavier fabric like twill. Well, you could even use some home decor, fabrics or tapestry fabrics. My fabric is a home decor fabric, like a heavy canvas. Then you'll need a lining fabric. For this, I recommend a lightweight broadcloth or a quilting cotton next you'll need if usable interfacing. Mine looks big because I buy my interfacing by the bolt. But you don't need a whole bolt. Don't worry. Next, you'll need paper to make your pattern on. I like to use the packing paper that comes in my packages from Amazon. It's actually really great if you use paper like that, we sure you iron it on a high setting before you start drawing on it, because it will get all the wrinkles out. You can also use the paper grocery bag or if you have actual rolls of drafting paper. You can also use that. But packing paper is the most, uh, convenient. For me. You lied. Some scrap fabric to make your draft with. You can use anything that you want for this along, As you could mark on it, you will need a package of a single tape, single fold, biased tape. I had to get the wide kind because it gives me a little bit more room and, well, you're in it. We're gonna use this for the edges of our course. It you'll need covered boning. This is the kind that you can find it. Any Joanne store. It's plastic, and it has a fabric covering on the outside. You'll need queer inch grow grain ribbon, bro. Grain ribbon has the little ridges on it. Um, you can either buy it by the school or you need about four yards. I buy mine by the school cause it's pretty cheap. You'll need a tape measure to take your measurements. Scissors. The little sisters are optional. I own these because I like to use them to clip threads, but you don't need to have them. You could just use your regular scissors. You'll need thread. I bought my thread to match the shell fabric. You'll need a seam ripper, a pencil and eraser for making the pattern and I'm marking pen for making marks actual actually on your fabric. So be sure that you can erase those marks later, either by with water or their air. Erase herbal. You will need pins. I like to keep a notebook for these kinds of projects because they can get a little confusing. You'll need your grid ruler and a French curve ruler. That's a lot of supplies. So I've made a nice list here for you, along with the amounts that you would need. I write half yard for all of the fabrics. 1/2 yard would give you an 18 inch long course it from top to bottom. Um, when we get into the measurements, I'll show you how to find that measurement. Mine actually turned out to be nine inches from top to bottom, so I doubt you would need the whole width of that. But I like to get 1/2 yard just to make sure I have enough. I'm also gonna put this list in the class project description. So in case you need to actually write all these things down before you go shopping, that's where you can find it up. Next. We're going to draft our pattern, get ready 3. Drafting Part 1: Now we're gonna draft the pattern. This is the hard part, so don't get discouraged. If you can make it through this, you could make it through the rest. I've divided this section ended into two parts to make it a little bit easier for you. There's some math involved, but it's simple math of fractions. Editions attraction. All the formulas will be spelled out, and there'll be plenty of time to do them, and I will explain them as thoroughly as I can. So grab a calculator, a measuring tape and a pencil and some paper and let's get started. So the first thing we're gonna do is take our measurements. So if you'll grab your measuring tape and your notebook, you will take thes. First. You'll need the measurement of your torso right underneath your bust, which is where a broadband would normally sit. You'll see the top red dashed line there on the, uh, model form. That's why you lied to measure first. Second, you'll need your waist measurement at the narrowest part. The best way to find that is to bend to one side and put your hand where you feel. Crease, then been to the other side of Put your other hand where you feel a crease and where your hands are is the narrowest part, which is, if you will see that second dashed line. Um, that's where you want to measure. Then you'll need your abdomen measurement, which is usually around the naval. It's the wires, part of the stomach. If you look at the third dashed line on this model form, you'll see it. It's a little bit below her belly button, Um, but it will be whatever the widest part of your stomach is now, we're going to do the center front. So if you'll take your tape measure from right underneath the bust line and down the front to right below the abdomen or the desired length of the course, it So I ended up wanting to make one course at about nine inches, which ended up stopping, um, a little bit below by belly button and kind of right in line with my hips. You'll see the red dashed a line in the center of the model forms body. That's where you want to measure. Then lastly, you will need thes side torso measurement, which is the red dashed line on the side of the model's body that is going from the under bust measurement to the top of your hip bone. Right now, we're gonna do some math. So have your measurements handy. Um, paper You're drafting paper, pencil ruler and a calculator. Make sure the paper you're gonna draft on has been ironed on a high setting. So all the wrinkles have been removed. It's still gonna be a little wrinkly, but it'll be flat, at least for this part of the class. Thes steps will go in this order. I'm going to show you the formula and explanation of what you're going to draw. Then I'm going to show a demonstration of me drawing it. Then I'm going to show a graphic chart of what you should have drawn. This is the hardest part. So go slow pause when you need to. And if you get confused, um, in the discussions section, just ask me your question. All right, here we go. I'm gonna use my measurements while I explain this. So first thing you're gonna do is take your largest measurements. Usually your abdomen and divide by two. My abdomen was 33 divided by two is 16.5. We're going to use half inch seam allowances on this project, so I want you to add four inches to your number. So for me, that was 16.5. Plus four is 20.5. Now you're gonna take that number and round to the nearest whole number, Which for me was 21? This is going to be the length of the top and bottom of your rectangle. Now you're gonna take your front torso measurement, which for me turned out to be nine, and you're gonna add one inch for a seam allowance that's 1/2 inch on the top and 1/2 inch on the bottom. And this is going to be the length of the sides of your rectangle. Now, here I am with my paper and I'm going to take my grid ruler. I'm using a pen, so just so you can see. But please use a pencil, some lining up my grid ruler with the straight edge of the paper. We call that squaring, and I'm drawing up from the bottom 10 inches. Now I'm gonna draw the top of my rectangle, which we decided. Remember Waas 21. So I'm going to square up the edge of my ruler with the straight line. I just drew my rulers 18 inches. So I'm gonna make a mark at the 18 inch line and then finish it off should you line it up really good that I'm going to square my ruler again from the line I just drew and draw another 10 inches down for the other side of my rectangle. Now I have a base rectangle. This is what you should have. So far, you've got your Abdin measurement across the top of the bottom and your center front torso measurement along each side. Now you're going to divide a rectangle length by four. So for me, that's 21. Divided by four is five and 1/4 or 5.25 And I'm going to make four equal sections on my rectangle. So 21 by fours 5.25 And I'm gonna mark my I'm gonna mark that along my rectangle here 0.25 equals 1/4 by the way. So taking my ruler along the top edge of my rectangle on but a mark five and 1/4 inches in the centre front, then mark five and 1/4 inches from that mark. Then mark five and 1/4 inches from that mark. And I'm gonna check and make sure I still have 500 quarter inches on the end. They do, and it should look like this. Now, I am going to square down a line from each of these marks so that I have four divided sections. So I'm just lining up my grid ruler along the lines I've already drawn. I make sure the grid lines are straight so that the lines I draw are also straight. I have four sections. I'm going to label them center, front side, front side, back and back. And now you're Pattern should look like this. All right. Are you still with me? That wasn't so bad. Let's keep going. Take your under bust measurement and divide that by two. So for me, that measurement was 30. Divided by two is 15. Now you're gonna add four inches to that number for your seam allowances. So it's 15 plus four equals 19 and I'm going to divide that number by four, which is four and 3/4 or 4.75 Then I am going to find the difference between the section width, which is five and 1/4 to the woods of each of my four sections and the under bust with which is four and 3/4. So 5.25 or five and 1/4 minus 4.75 or four and 3/4 is 0.5 inches or 1/2 inch. Now I'm going to divide that half inch by two, giving me 1/4 inch and I'm going to decrease the top of each of the sections by 1/4 inch. On each side of the lines that I drew here is what that looks like. So I'm taking my ruler and I'm going to each section line and I'm marking 1/4 inch away from each side of the marks that I have made that are on the scene lines so you can kind of see that there it should look like this. See those little bits of space at the top and you'll Onley do this along those three lines . Those are gonna be seem lines. Avoid the center front line and the centre back line. Now you're going to measure down from the top of each section and make marks at the three inch point in the four inch point. And just like on the last step, you're gonna skip the center front line in the centre back line. These marks are going to be the deepest parts of the waste curve, so apparently I didn't shoot a clip for this section, and I'm so sorry, but this is what your pattern should look like now. The top line along each of the, uh, seem line sections should be three inches from the very top edge of the rectangle, and the second line right below that should be four inches from the top of the rectangle, so there's a one inch gap between each pair of those horizontal lines. Now you've got the base of your draft done, and in the second part we will finish it up 4. Drafting Part 2: No, I've come to the second part of our drafting process, and we're going to pick up right where we left off. Be sure you still have your notebook handy with your measurements in it, a calculator and all your drafting supplies. Your next step is to take your waist measurement and divide by two. So for me, my waist restaurant was 28 divided by two is 14. Then we're going to add four inches to accommodate for our seam allowances. So for me, that was 14 plus four is 18 inches. Now I'm going to divide that number by four, which is 4.5. Now. Find the difference between the section with just 5.25 and the waste width, which is 4.5 of the five and 1/4 minus 4.5 equals 0.75 which is 3/4. Then you're going to divide that number by two. So 3/4 divided by two equals 3/8 which in decimals is 0.375 Now we're going to decrease each section by 3/8 of an inch on each side of the same line between the waist marks So I hope you follow me and I'm gonna show you how that happens. I've got my ruler and I'm going. I'm lining up one of the lines on my ruler along the seem line that drew on the 3/8 inch line. So I kind of show it to you again where I'm putting my ruler along the centre line of the seam and marking out 3/8 of an inch. So now you're pattern should look like this where you kind of have little boxes in the middle, ish of each of the same lines. All right, you're doing great. Keep hanging in there. Now. We're gonna take our side torso measurement and add one inch for seam allowances. So for my side torso, which, if you remember, was the under bus to the top of the hip bone, it was seven inches. I'm gonna add one inch for seam allowances, which is eight. Then on the seem line between the side, front and the side back, you're gonna make a mark measuring down this distance from the top edge of your pattern. Then you're going to square a line from this mark across the bottom of the side back and the back pieces. Here's how that looks. I'm measuring down eight inches from the top and making a little mark. Then I'm going to square up my ruler along the line and draw a line across the side, back in the back pieces and that should look like this. Now, receive that line going across the back, and now we're gonna do three steps. So from the top edge of the back, you're going to mark down 1/2 inch, then at the edge of the centre back, going to make a fold line that's normal for patterns. We place that piece on the fold, then from the bottom edge of the back, you're gonna mark up 1/4 inch. These top and bottom marks are going to help us when we make a curb along the back edges. So you'll see here I have my ruler and from the top edge of the back, I'm measuring down 1/2 in. Jim's gonna make a little mark right there. Now I'm going to make a full line and I'm going to square up about 1/2 inch. I'm just going to draw a straight line there and that like a little box, and I'm gonna say fold right here. And that is a reminder for when we cut out our pieces. Now I'm going from the bottom edge and going up 1/4 of an inch and make a little mark right there. So now this is what your pattern should be looking like. It's hang out here for a second, make sure you got all that not go over the centre front and from the top edge of the centre front, you're gonna mark up 1/4 inch. Okay, I've got my ruler, and I'm on the centre front edge, and I'm measuring up 1/4 of an inch, that's all. Now, here's what your patterns looking like. Now you see that little mark over there at the top left corner. Now we're gonna bust out your curved ruler. You're gonna make a smooth curve from the centre front mark to the side torso line on both the top and the bottom edge. Then you're going to make a smooth curve from the centre back to the side torso line on both the top and bottom edge and manipulate the ruler as you need to so you touch all the marks that you've made There we go. So that quarter inch mark where I marked up I'm going to start there. I'm gonna find the center scene between the side front and the side back. I'm gonna manipulate the ruler as I go so that I get a smooth line or a smooth as it can be Now I'm gonna go up from the bottom of the front to that seem line again between the side, front and the side back Remember how we marked it up? Now I'm gonna go up from there and make a smooth of a curve as I can. Now, I'm gonna do the same thing for the back. I'm going to make a downward curve from the seem line between the side, front and the side back, and I'm going to end it at that half inch mark. The member of the mark. We made those half an inch down from the top, and now I'm going to flip this. Well, I'm just gonna kind of smooth this curb out a little bit. Then I'm going to make an upward curve from the side seam line to the centre back line. I'm going to make sure that that is nice and smooth and meets up with the other curve from the front. So now here's what your pattern looks like. See how you have a slight curved edge from the top in a slight, curved edge from the bottom. That's gonna make sure that that course it goes over the hips and the top of the but really nicely. Now we're gonna make our side curves starting at the top edge. You're you'll use your curved ruler and the ruler should touch the under bust mark the waste marks in the bottom edge. So I was kind of a lot of words. Here's what that looks like. I've got my curve ruler and I'm lying it up with that top under bust Mark I made Remember when we marked in from this top of the seam? I'm going up and I'm I lined up my curve ruler so that it hit all of those marks in one line and now I'm going to do it on the other side as well and my curved lines we're gonna kind of crisscross at the very bottom. But that is OK, I'm going to do that on my other seems And this is what it looks like. I've put my waist curves on each of the same lines. You're almost there. Just a couple more steps now we're gonna do is just cut out our pieces here and cut along the finish. The lines. Remember, we made all those curves. We're gonna cut along that I sped this part of the video up because I am just cutting. I'm not doing anything special. My front side front. It's right back and back. Give you put first. My paper off to the side. Here are my pieces Now for finishing touch. We're gonna add some pattern markings and this will help us identify our pieces once they're cut out of the fabric and ah will help us line up our edges a little bit. So I'm gonna make some little triangle marks along the top edge of each pattern piece. I'm going to make one for the front to for the side front, three for the side back and four for the back. And they're just gonna be little consecutive triangles now. I'm just gonna do that real quick. It doesn't matter really where you put them As long as they're on the top edge. I've got one for the front to for the side. Front three for the side back and four for the back. All right. You did it. You drafted your first pattern. Reward yourself. Take a break. This was really hard. I know it wears me out and I do it a lot up next, we're going to do the fitting and adjusting. I've also divided that lesson into two parts to make it a little bit easier, because it is also quite challenging. But don't worry. Once you get past the drafting and the fitting, the sewing is going to be a breeze. 5. Fitting and Adjustment Part 1: Now we're gonna take the pattern you just made. We're going to cut out a test garment. We're gonna fit it on you, and we're going to adjust accordingly. So this is the second hardest part of this class. And if you can make it through this, you're golden. So it was Hang in there. It's gonna be OK. Let's go. The first thing you're gonna do is pretty simple. You're just gonna lay out your pattern pieces on your scrap fabric and you're going to cut them out, just like you would any other pattern? Whenever I do a test garment, I always lay out my pieces to start with in the way that just uses the least amount of fabrics. That's why I'm rearranging them a whole bunch right now. I'm gonna pin all of these down rytmel pinned down, and I'm just going to cut these out really quick. Sure, you cut out your little triangle markers. Those are gonna be very handy for when we're fitting. Just keep cutting until all my pieces are cut out. There we go. And when I take out all my pins real quick and as I do that, I'm gonna lay my pieces out. I'm gonna try to put him in order. So if you'll see there, those are my side fronts, which I can tell because they have too little triangles on the top, which indicates side front. Whenever I'm working with a lot of pieces like this, I try to always keep them in order because it can be confusing. If you have a bunch of pieces laying out, none of them are really marked. So I try to keep mine in order. You're my side backs. And then finally, my back piece. Now I'm going to start pinning my pieces together, and I'm gonna do the back section first, someone attached both side backs to the back piece, and now I'm going to attach the side fronts to the front pieces. Once I have these pin down, I'm going to go over to my sewing machine and I'm going to. So the seems with a basting stitch. Here we are now, and I have Sony's with a basting stitch so that I can take them out easily if I need to. And I am now going to attach the fronts two backs they're matching at my pieces at the side seam, and I'm going to so that with a basting stitch as well. But I've got my draft course a piece here, and I'm gonna mark all my pieces. And that's why we use scrap fabric for this, because I'm going to write all over this, So I'm gonna mark the front the side front, and you can just use letters if you want. So that's what I'm doing. I'm writing at F S, F S, B and B on all my pieces. Right now, we're going to see what this looks like on a body. So I'm using a dress form to show you this so I can do it a little better. If you have a dress form. Great, you can use that. Otherwise, just put it on yourself and let's see what we're looking at here. Looks like it might be a little wrinkly on the sides, and there's kind of a gap in the front. I don't usually worry about gaps in the lower front because I know that I'll be synched in later on. Here's a look at the side. It's definitely wrinkling a little bit there. So here's what I'm doing I'm pulling in the seam between the front and the side front. I also took it in a little bit between the side, front and the side back, but I forgot to take a picture. So I'm sorry about that. What you're going for, whenever you're looking at this on your body, is you want it to lay a smooth as it can. Now, it's gonna look a little bit different, of course, in a draft form than on a final form. But we're going for is you wanted to look a smooth as possible. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna make a little pen mark on either side of the flaps that I pulled out there and I'm going to take this off of the form and lay it out on the table. And here is my pen mark on the front and side front can kind of see it there. It's about 3/8 of an inch. Now. I'm gonna use my ruler to blend the line from that pen mark back into the seam allowance. Kind of like that. It's a really small mark, but it's going to make a big difference later. Now I'm doing the same thing on the seem line between the side, front and the side back. You can see this mark is a little bit bigger. I'm gonna make sure I put the same measurements on the other side of the draft so that I have my lines on both side both the left and right sides, that I'm gonna go back over to my still in machine and I'm going to based stitch along the new lines that I just drew. And for me as since I only I'm gonna take this in at the top part, I'm going to start at the top and then blend the seem line back down into the original scene and it looks a bit like this. And now I'm going to put this back on my form. Or you would put it back on to yourself and see what I'm looking at now. So it still looks like it's a little pulling a little bit on the side still and in the back a little bit. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just going to turn this around and look at it a little. It is still kind of big right here. So I'm gonna take it in a little more right there at the side seam. And it looks like it's pulling away a little bit from the back also. So I'm gonna take a little bit in the back to this enough so that it lays flat against the form and make sure lays flat against your body. If you're actually just trying it on yourself, kind of make increase a little bit along there. That's looking a little bit better. Okay, let's work on that now. So I'm measuring the amount that I took in between the side front and the side back, and I'm gonna market and then open up my piece and do the blending line just like I did on the first time. You can kind of see the third line there. Now, I want to make sure that my curbs stay intact cause I don't wanna have straight lines in my corset. So I'm grabbing my curved ruler, and I'm going to line it up with that third mark that I made. And I'm gonna blend the curve back into the side seam and you can see that right there doing this adjustment on the back is going to be a little bit different. I've marked where my pin went so I can see him when I unfold that. And I'm going to measure the space between those two dots, okay? And it is about 3/4 of an inch. I've got my seam ripper and I'm going to take out the stitches that connect the back to the side back. I'm gonna go about half way down now the 3/4 of an inch that I want to take out. I want to divide that between the two sides so that I get a nice spacing and so I can keep from putting a seem right in the middle of the back of my course It So I'm going to divide the 3/4 of an inch is by two, which is gonna be 3/8 of an inch. But I'm going to measure in from the seem line 3/8 of an inch. I can kind of still see where the stitching waas, and then I'm gonna take my ruler. And to make sure I keep my half inch seam allowance, I'm going to measure in from the mark. I just made 1/2 inch, and that is the longer green mark that you see there. I'm going to blend into the edge of the fabric, this time from the mark I made down. And there that is that I'm gonna trim off that tiny little sliver that's left over Now I've Onley adjusted the actual back piece, So I'm gonna pull my seems back together. I'm going to redraw the curve that I basically just cut out. This new curve is just a little bit deeper than my previous curb, and that will help avoid some of those diagonal pull lines that you saw while it was on the form. I'm gonna go back over to my sewing machine and I'm gonna so down along this line that I just made, plus the other two that I made earlier along the side seams. Right now, I've made all these adjustments and you can see them all here whenever you're doing them. It doesn't look like you're taking off much, but it really does make a huge difference. I know that doing that takes a lot of work, but you're doing great. So let's keep going. I'm going to mark the places where I'm gonna put my ribbon loops because I wanna lace this up and see how it looks. I'm making little marks about an inch apart all the way down these front of this. I'm going to cut them. So I just grabbed my center tonight, has made little holes on all my marks and just do that on both sides. Now I'm going to criss cross lace this like I would if I was wearing it. I'm just going to do a few of the loops and then I'm gonna try it on myself, and I know that my room is messy, but there you can see it, and it looks like its laying pretty good. And so I think that I'm done with the adjustments. So I divided this part of the class and to two sections because it is very time consuming and detail oriented and even kind of makes my brain hurt a little bit. So take a deep breath, take a little break, come on back refreshed and will finish up adjusting our pattern 6. Fitting and Adjustment Part 2: Now we're going to do the last half of the fitting and adjusting section. I laid out my draft peace flat on the table and I'm going to take my curved ruler and smooth out those jagged edges along the bottom. It's gonna take a couple of different steps, but I'm just laying my ruler out of smooth as I can along the bottom edge across where those seems air kind of poking down to make one smooth curve. And I'm moving the ruler over as I go to continue the curve. I'm going to do the same thing on the top part. I'm just gonna lay my curve cooler across the top and try to get a smooth curve on the top edge. There's a little bit of a better shot of it. You can see it butting up right against the top edge. And I'm just drawing a smooth line now for my back curve. I wanted to dip down a little bit, so I'm gonna draw a con cave curve along the back and I'm centering it between my two triangle notches. There you can see the curve drawn. Now I have the edges top and bottom drawn and I'm just going to trim along the lines that I drew to make it a little easier on myself. I'm going to fold it in half and cut along the line that way. And here it is looking very nice and smooth. Now I've got my seamer burn. I'm separated all my pieces out and I'm going to trace any lines I can't see along Ah, where the stitching waas So you could do that before or after I did it after cause I can still see the places where the needle went through the fabric. You'll also want to take the back piece folded in half separately and cut it down the middle. Now I'm going to trim my pieces along the lines I just drew now, in this step in particular, I'm not accounting for C. Malone's. So I'm just cutting straight along the lines I drew, which were on the final seems that I decided on. Now I'm going to transfer those final adjustments onto the paper pieces. So how I'm going to do this, I'm gonna lay my paper piece down and then put the cloth piece on top and I'm matching up the triangle notches that I have made. So it's right in the center for the front piece and the back piece. You'll want to make sure that not only do your triangles match up, but that your center edges also match up. Our next step is to grab our grid ruler and mark in the seam allowances. So what I'm doing is I'm lining up the edge of the fabric part with the vertical half inch mark on my ruler and then going along the outside of the ruler to take in the paper pattern . And I'm going to zoom in so you can watch me do this a little bit better. You can see on the front piece I kind of have a little bit there and on these side pieces, I have to draw in the bottom and top as well because I took out a little bit on the top and bottom edge. I'm just moving my ruler to go along the curve. When I come to where the seam allowance is gonna be. I straighten my rule out a little bit, and that is to avoid those pointy edges where the seem kind of comes down a little bit and the bottom edge looks jagged. That's where we smoothed out a little bit in the last step, going to do the same thing on my last two pieces, and I'm going to speed the video up just a little bit so that it's not like watching paint dry here. Okay, so I've got all my markings put in, and what I'm going to do is just define my curves a little bit more. So I'm grabbing my curved ruler and I'm tracing along the little dashed lines that are currently there. On some of these pieces. I'm going to indented the curves a little bit more like in the back piece. You did not have to do that if you don't think that it's necessary. I like to have a really curved defined. Of course, it's so I generally do this and then I am just going to trim. I know that that looks like a teeny tiny bit, but all those little adjustments that we made will make your course. It fits so much better. And now you have finally a final pattern. Great job. You did it. You got this done. That was the hardest part of this class. So now we're going to go into the actual construction 7. Cutting Fabric + Sewing the Shell: Okay, Now let's start the easy part. Sewing the actual course it in this step, we're gonna cut out our fabric. And so the shell I've got all my pieces here, and I'm gonna grab my fabric and pin them all down. Here's my fabric. Remember when we made that fold line on the center of the back piece that peace is going on the full of the fabric? So this is my half yard that I bought, and I just kept it on the fold line that they cut it from. I'm pinning down all my pieces. I'm doing it in order. Not for any particular reason. Just because I like to do it in order. So that the back piece on the fold followed by the side, back side, front in front, and I'm gonna cut all these out. I'm actually cutting very carefully. Even though this video is fast, I speed this up because I cut really slow. Now you're gonna make sure you cut out your little triangle markers. Those are gonna be really important later on. Now I'm also going to put out my lining pieces. I'm not going to show it, though, because it's the same process as showpieces. And I'm also going to cut out my interfacing pieces, which is the same process. So now I have all my pieces here and I'm gonna take my shell pieces and my lining pieces and I'm going toe iron them. There we go. Don't take the interfacing pieces over here. Just the lining and show. Once you have your pieces all iron, I'm gonna put my lining pieces to the side for now. And I'm gonna grab my interfacing pieces for this interfacing. You want to put the fuse herbal side, which is the side with the glue towards the wrong side of your shell fabric. So the side with the glue is usually has a texture on, and it's a little nubby and you put that glue side facing your wrong side of your fabric. So that is what I've done here with all the pieces laid out. The interfacing is in the right place and I'm going to iron this. You can kind of see it here a little bit with my interfacing poking out between the triangle markings. I'm ironing this from the shell side of the fabric so that I can have a really high heat. I want to press this on the highest heat that I can to make sure there's a good bond between the interfacing and the fabric. You want to press this from the shell fabric side because if you press from the interfacing side at a high heat, you could potentially milk the interfacing and we don't want that. So press from the fabric side on the highest heat that you can. Now I'm going to pin together my pieces and so them I'm gonna do it in a certain order going to so it fronts, then side fronts that I'm going to do the back and side back. Make sure that your edges match. See, I just mix it up there and make sure that your pieces air mirroring each other so you don't actually get accidentally get to side front seat air facing the same direction. So you have two left sides and on the left side to right side. And so I always lay my pieces out the way that you see here to make sure that they're mirroring each other. So there's my back piece and I'm gonna pen my front pieces and those edges should match up really nicely. When I get done here, I'm going to go over to my sewing machine. I'm just gonna so these on a regular straight stitch. Okay, Now I'm gonna so those edges and come right back. All right, So before I go any further, I'm taking both of my fronts. I'm going to make the markings for the loops. So when I'm doing this, I'm measuring down 3/4 of an inch from the top and measuring up 3/4 of an inch from the bottom. And this will leave enough room for my half inch seam allowance. Then, from there, I'm going to take my ruler. And in between those two markings, I am going to measure one inch increments as close as I can. There's one of them is going to be a little off, but I just get it was close to one inch increments as I can. Each of these marks is gonna be where I put a ribbon loop for making about 10 on each side . And I'm doing this before I sold my fronts to my back is because it's a little bit easier. You don't have Ah, this big long piece flopping around What? We're trying to make your marks. That's a little easier to line up the front pieces if they're not connected to anything. My kind of what I'm doing right now with my pieces are facing each other. I can kind of see where by marks are lining up. Now I'm gonna cut my ribbon loops. I've got my ribbon here and I'm marking 2.5 inches. I'm gonna cut 2.5 inch segments of ribbon. Think I messed up the second mark a little bit. Discount double check my measuring here air. Okay, there we go. 2.5 inches and I'm going to cut 20 of these total. There we go. Here's 20 pieces. Now I'm gonna take a piece of ribbon. I'm going toe loop it in hat Then I'm gonna put it on the edge of my fabric at one of my marks with the loop side facing away from the edge Won a pennant really carefully so I don't stab myself. You go. I'm gonna do that 19 more times. Assume it's you can see a little bit better here, so I'm folding it flat. So it makes a little loop, and I'm turning it away from the edge. Now, I'm gonna do this for every mark I have. All right, So here's all my loops, and they're facing inward right now so that when I'm finished sewing, they'll turn out like So. So what I'm gonna do is to go over to my sewing machine, and so these down with a basting stitch now back. Okay, Now my loops are secure, and I am going to So my front pieces to the back piece just lining out my side seam edges here. - Once I get thes pinned down, I'm gonna go back over to my sewing machine, and I'm gonna so these edges together using a regular straight stitch. Make sure you change your stitch back from basting to regular. All right, I've got my shell all sewn up. It's starting to look pretty good. Now, what I'm gonna do for this last step in this particular video is pressed. These seems open really flat. This is going to be worry. Put our boning. So once you've got your seems all pressed, take a little break and come back over and we will work on sewing the boning and the lining 8. Sewing the Boning and Lining: now we're going to so in the boning and the lighting. So the first thing we have to do is measure the amount of boning that's going to go in each seam. And you can do that one of two ways. You can just lay it out right on the same and market and cut it that way. That's kind of the shortcut way. Or you can actually take your ruler and measure the seam like so and then measure out the boning and market it. Cut it. Hey, and there's my first piece to go on that first scene there. Now, I'm gonna do the rest of my voting the easy way where I'm just gonna lay it down the center of the seam and market and cut my mark. Okay, here we go. I'm gonna do this for the rest of my three. Seems are now got boning cut for all my seems. And what I'm going to do is take all these pieces over to the ironing board on, iron them out really, really flat on a high setting, and then I'll be right back. All right, so I got my piece of a real flat. What I'm gonna do now is trim the plastic part back, and so I'm pulling back the casing a little bit, and I'm going to trim it, you know, like a much of a curve, as I can get just to get off the sharp ends. And I want to take out about 1/2 a niche or a little bit more than 1/2 a niche, because then the plastic won't get caught in my seem when I'm sewing. So once I cut it down, I'm just gonna could have done a little bit more and then pull the casing back up over it. Zoom in a little bit here so you can watch me do the next one a little easier. I'm going to do the same thing on the other end. I'm gonna pull the casing back a little over half a niche and just check there my ruler and then good and a curb. I just don't want any spiky ends on the corners. No. Pull the casing up, check it again on both ends. Looks good. I've got to ends that are free of plastic. Just do that on all of your pieces. Now I've got all my boning pieces trimmed I'm gonna lay them in the centers of each seam I'm gonna pin and down just that the ends to keep it in place for a bit I can't pin through the plastic so I'm just doing it at the ends Now, when I so boning, I only saw one piece at a time just because it's a little easier for me So that's what I'm going to show you. But if you want to pin all their strips down first and then go so them all at once, that's also fine. So now I'm gonna pop over to my selling machine right now. We're gonna so this down. I'm using a zipper foot because that will help me stay right along the edge of my bone casing to make sure that I only hit the fabric and I don't hit plastic. Now, I'm also trying to pay attention to where the bone is laying and making sure it stays in the center of the same. I'm just keep going all the way down until you get to the end and then he'll switch sides and go back the other way and be sure you back, such on the ends here and then from the outside, you'll see what it looks like. You can see that looks really nice on the outside there. All right. So I so down all the boating in the seams, but I still have two more pieces to go. So in order to get it on those center front edges, I'm gonna measure it out first. There we go to both sides. Once I cut this, I'm going to repeat the process I did on the other pieces of boning. Why iron them out flat and trim the plastic bag? And then when I go to pin this, I'm gonna pin it about 3/4 of an inch away from the edge so that when I fold it over, none of my loops will get caught up. And it will be far enough away from the edge that it won't get in the way of any of my lining pieces or edging pieces or any of that. Okay, remember those lining pieces we set aside? We're gonna so that together now I'm gonna go in exactly the same order I did for the shell going to do the back pieces first and make sure that they may or each other that I'm going to do the front pieces. Thesafeside, front to the centre front. Okay. And then I'm gonna so those together and come back. Now I'm going to just trim my threads here a little bit. I'm going to So the front pieces to the back piece, someone open it up just like I did on the shell. And so these down. So I have a nice long strip, Okay? And then once I get this pin down and go over to my sewing machine and so those down that my lining also together here, and I'm going to attach it to the shell fabric. So I'm gonna put it right sides together just like that. And I am going to pin and so on, Lee, along the centre front edges for right now. - Right now, I have my edges sewn here, and I'm going to flip this right side out, just like that. Uh, okay. Now, look, that just lines up real nice. Look at that. Look how it's coming together. You guys look at that, starting to look like something. So what I'm gonna do next is take this over to the ironing board. I'm gonna iron it really, really well. Especially along the centre front edges. And in the next section we're going to so are biased tape edging. 9. Edging: Now we're gonna do the edging of our course it using bias tape. All right, I've got my piece here and I am going to pin down the shell fabric and the lining, making sure I match up all the seams and I get the edges as close as possible. I'm also going to match up my triangle markings along the top edge. Now that I have my fabric all pinned down, what I'm gonna do is just kind of smooth it out a little bit from the back side. I want to make sure there's a few wrinkles in the lining fabric as possible, so I'm going to smooth it out with my hands and repent it as necessary. And then when I'm done with that, I'm going to take it over to the soy machine. And so a basting stitch along there Now I've got my basting stitch put in along the top and the bottom conceit on the backside. And now we are going to do are edging someone. Bust out my bias tape here, pull it out of the package and I'm going to measure how much I need just by running it along the edges. So on the ends, be sure you leave about an inch to an inch and 1/2 just dangling. You're gonna need that extra end to make a nice corner. And then I'm just going to move it down the edge with my fingers until I get to the other end and be sure you leave another inch or so on the other end as well, going to mark that and cut. And now I am going to do the other edge the exact same way. So leave a little bit dangling on the end and just move it down the edge with your fingers until you get to the end. And then once we do that, we're going to take it over to the ironing board. So first I like to iron my strips while they're still folded, with the two edges folded inward, and I just run the iron over them real quick to make them kind of flat. Then I'm gonna open up one side and press it open, just like you see here. So I've got one edge that's open and one edge that still folded up. Now I've got both of my bias tape strips with the one edge pressed open, and I'm going to go back over to my table and pin this down to my corset. All right, so we're gonna pin this all along the edge, make sure you still leave that inch to inch and 1/2 dangling off of one side. I start inward a little bit, and I just go all the way down until I run out of bias tape with my pins. Remember, you're still gonna have one little piece of bias tape dangling off the other end. All right, So I'm about Don pinning here and then what I'm going to do. It's so this down with a regular stitch. But there's still kind of a fold line visible in the bias tape, and that's what I'm gonna use is my guide. So I go over to the soil and machine. I'm gonna so right along that fold line that I see now I have my bias tape stitched down, and what we're going to do next is turn it up and underneath the lining to create a nice clean edge. All right, here's how this works. You're just going to take your bias tape and flip it right there and then flip it underneath on what you're looking for. I want you to feel around and I want you to make sure that the edge that's facing the lining is slightly higher than the seem on the outside, and that will make sure that will me. So it down. You won't be able to see stitching from the outside now, but you might want to do while your foot while you're folding this up is check your seems and make sure that they're not too bulky. Like I found one right there. I'm going to trim down so that it doesn't make my edging look weird. There's another one. I'm going to trim down a little bit if I can. Sorry, it's out of the frame, trimmed that a little bit and now I'm going to start again. I'm gonna flip my biased tape, huh? And over. I'm going to make sure that I feel that the edge I just turned under is higher. Then the edge on the other side, and that's really gonna help us get a nice clean finish when we so it down. I'm placing my pins kind of strategically to make sure it doesn't move while I'm sewing it . I'm gonna go all the way down with that. All right? I've got my edge pinned all the way down. There's a lot of pins. You can see what it's gonna look like from the opposite side. There. We're gonna so down the ends after we So down this main piece. So be sure you leave your ends dangling, okay? And let's go over to these sewing machine when I show you some little snippets of how to sew this because I am doing something different than normal. I'm using a zipper foot to sewed on my edging so I can have a guide and get really, really close right on that we call that stitch in the ditch right in the ditch between where the shell fabric meets the bias tape on our goal with this is to make a nice, clean, almost invisible stitching line. Since our top thread matches are shell, we don't want to hit that bias tape on the outside at all. So here's what that's gonna look like in practice. I'm actually going pretty slow because since my pins air underneath, I don't want to accidentally hit them so you can see I'm running the edge of my zipper foot right up along the edge of that biased tape. And then let me show you what this looks like on the back side really quick so you can see what I'm talking about. You see how that back edge helps me get that out of there? The edge of this bias tape on the underside is completely sewn down and you can't see those stitches from the outside, and that's what we're going to do along this whole edge. So I have finished that step, and what I'm going to do next is just go along the edge on the underside of my bias tape and make sure that I caught everything because sometimes the tape could slip and it could come out of the stitching or whatever. So you just want to do a check and make sure that it got so all the way down and there's no gaps where it slipped and didn't get sewn. And it looks like I'm good here. So now let's work on our ends. What I'm going to do is clip this till it's about 1/2 inch hanging off the end and I put a little bit extra on there just for safety. But I'm gonna clip most of it off, and then I'm going to take that end and fold it over the corner, can see that right there, spooled over like this and then pull the bottom side up. So you kind of have that corner wrapped, and then I'm gonna pin it a few times as best I can. It's pretty thick right there, so you might not be able to get up in all the way through. But I'm just putting these in here to kind of hold it as best as it can be held. And then you can kind of see from the outside that it matches up along the edge. Now we're going to do the other corner exactly the same way. I want to trim it till about 1/2 a niche and then fold it over my corner like so and then fold that bottom edge up like so. So I have another nicely wrapped corner. Then when I get this pin down, I'm going to go back over to my sewing machine and using the same type of stitches before again with the zipper foot. I'm just going to so down the very ends and be sure you use a back stitch and make sure you don't catch your loops in your stitching, right? This is starting to look pretty good. So the first thing I'm going to do now is clip all my loose threads that I have dangling off there. Merry go. And then I am going to repeat this edging process for the other edge. So once you do that, just grab your other strip of bias tape and repeat these last few steps, I'm going to do that off camera, and then I'm going to you come back. Oh, my gosh. Look at this thing. We're almost done, you guys. So the next thing I'm going to do is, um, gonna look at the inside of my course It I'm gonna find all the basting that I can see, and I'm going to take it all out because it's no longer needed. It's just going to clutter up the look of my corset. I want my courses to look really clean and finished and professional. So if you look way down there Here we go. I'm just going to tear out all these basting stitches. Be sure while you're doing this that you don't catch any of your real stitches because you don't want to undo any of the work that you've just done. Now we're almost finished. The last thing we're gonna do is the lacing. 10. Lacing and Wrap Up: and now, for the very last step, we are going to lace this up. I went to lace my corsets from the bottom, which puts the bow at the top. And I'm just going to do this real quick. I'm doing a really basic lace, but when I start off, you want to make sure that your laces are the same link and I am lacing this up just like you would issue where you just go back and forth in an X motion. And when you're putting this on yourself, make sure you're constantly checking your shirt underneath, make sure doesn't get to Bunch E and so that the hem line is even. And then I also always go through and tighten up my laces as I'm going, I'm going to do a little bit of that here, tighten us up a little bit and then tie in a bow. Look that I got my shirt a little bit caught up so I would adjust that later, like I did here. And the very last thing we're going to do is do a little clip in the ribbon so it doesn't fray. So I want to do is fold it in half a little bit and then cut at a diagonal. And then you get this nice little ribbon end and that will keep the ribbon from fraying. And tha you're all done. Congratulations. We've now come finally to the end of this class. If you enjoyed yourself, please leave a thumbs up or a nice review. I can't wait to see your projects. I know that this subject is very challenging. So if you have any questions, please ask them in discussions. Page and I will answer them for more discussions on sewing, extra tips and free links to join all the new classes, check out the quick and dirty Facebook group. You can find the link in my teacher profile. You can also follow me on Instagram at Morrissey Rue for more sewing inspiration, Happy sewing.