Punch Needle Basics - How to Create a Punch Needle Project in a Swoosh | Jenni Ahlberg | Skillshare

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Punch Needle Basics - How to Create a Punch Needle Project in a Swoosh

teacher avatar Jenni Ahlberg, Illustrator, Hand letterer & Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

22 Lessons (1h 35m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:58
    • 2. Inspiration

      1:15
    • 3. Tools Overview

      0:49
    • 4. Frames and Hoops

      4:43
    • 5. Fabrics

      2:30
    • 6. Yarn

      3:26
    • 7. Needles and Threading Them

      5:29
    • 8. Punching

      7:31
    • 9. Stitches

      2:54
    • 10. My Favourite Tools

      0:22
    • 11. Q&A

      11:53
    • 12. Pro Tip

      0:47
    • 13. Class Project Introduction

      0:56
    • 14. Templates

      0:58
    • 15. Drawing the Design

      3:31
    • 16. Transferring the Design

      3:54
    • 17. Attaching the Fabric

      7:24
    • 18. About Choosing Colors

      1:07
    • 19. Punching Part 1: Arches

      13:05
    • 20. Punching Part 2: Cleaning up & Finishing

      10:24
    • 21. Framing the Project

      8:43
    • 22. Thank you

      1:11
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About This Class

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Do you wanna learn something fun and easy to decorate your home with or gift to a friend?

If yes, then this could be the class for you. The punch needle technique is very easy and quick to learn. By taking this class, you will learn in one evening, how to create cool looking punch needle projects.

You will also learn:

- What tools and materials you will need

- About the punch needle stitches

- How to draw the project template and transfer it to the fabric

- How to attach your fabric onto the punching hoop or frame

- How to punch the project

- How to finish your project and frame it

- I have also included a little Q&A on "hot topics"

To succeed in this class, you don’t need to be crafty or know how to knit, crochet or sew. It’s so simple that the whole family can join in the fun - well, maybe not babies and pets.

To see what tools you'll be needing in this class hop onto the Projects & Resources page. That's where you'll also find the punch needle templates for the Class Project and a link to a Pinterest inspiration board.

Here's a link to the bonus punch needle templates (optional) on my website. You'll find the password in the Inspiration lesson.

Link to a Punch Needle Pinterest board.

See you in class!

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Jenni Ahlberg

Illustrator, Hand letterer & Designer

Teacher

 



 

I'm an illustrator, a hand-letterer, an interior designer and a big-time coffee consumer. I'm also into surface pattern design, Procreate, handcrafts of all sorts, colours, plants, cardigans, T-shirts and coffee with tons of milk (Yes, I know this is the second time I mention coffee. That just shows you how big of a thing it is for me :D ).

Lately, I've been getting more and more into sharing what I know. I have always had a soft spot for helping people. If someone is struggling with something, that I feel I could help them with, I tend to offer help. That's the reason I started teaching here at Skillshare. :)

In my free time, I doodle and craft with my daughter, play Minecraft with my son or plan to go running with ... See full profile

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: it's punch needle time. Thank you for joining me. I'm unique. But you can call me Jenny. I'm guessing that since you're watching this, you're curious about Punch Needle. Well, so was I. When I first solo Lisa condoms punch needle pillow that she had punched with her own design . I thought that it looked so cool, but at the same time, I thought that it's probably a really difficult technique to do, so I did not. It took me a while to try it out myself. But once I did, I was hoping I couldn't believe it was so easy and quick to do. And when I realized that the technique can be mastered super quickly, I thought, Oh my gosh, people need to know how easy these days. I bet there are so many other people out there who think like I did that. It looks so cool. But I bet it's really difficult and they do not think. But it's not hard. It's easy and it's fun. But when I started looking online for instructions, there seemed to be plenty offshore tutorials scattered all over the place, but notice single place that would answer all the questions that I had. So I felt that someone needed to fix that. Yeah, what? So I decided together, all that information and then some and give it to you in one needs package. And here we are with a class project. You are free to punch any design you like. But here's the one I'll be punching during this class, and I'll show you how to do it. You will not need any previous knowledge off the technique, and you do not need to be particularly handy off good and knitting or anything like that. This technique can literally be mastered in a swish by anyone, and I made it anyone. It's dutiful for the whole family. I'm excited and ready to do this, so let's go. 2. Inspiration: to tickle your inspiration. I have collected some examples off what kind of projects you could be making real solar. But just so you know that all the throw pillows might be tempting, they are quite a big undertaking, and I do not recommend it as the first project. It's best to familiar. Familiarize yourself with your tools and the technique with the smaller and more simple project. First, here's an example off a simple design if you want to keep your first project super easy. However, for the official class project, I will be making and guiding you to create this design, a simple yet pretty little rainbow. You'll find both templates on the project, and resource is Paige. If you need a one more inspiration, you can check out a Pinterest board that I have put together for you. You'll find a link to it in the project description, and as a bonus, I have made these two templates that you are free to snatch for yourself by using the password punch needle to on my website. You'll find a link to them once again in the project description. Next up will be an introduction to the tools 3. Tools Overview: So next up is the tools overview. So first I'm gonna introduce you to the five essential tools that you'll need for doing Punch Needle so you will need some fabric, preferably monks. Close. You'll need a punch needle. Here. I have two different kinds and a needle threat ER, which usually comes with the needle. You'll also need a frame either a square, one rectangle, one or around hoop on. Then you'll need some yard. So these are the essential said you will be needing. I'll go through them in more detail in a bit and also introduce a few other things that you might find helpful. 4. Frames and Hoops: Okay, let's start with the frames. You can get started with almost any type of frame. Here's a regular frame that you use for framing a piece of art, so I've just flip this over and attached my fabric onto that. Another cheap option is to buy a cannabis for painting and removed the painting canvas like I have done here so you can still see the staples here on. Then attach your punch needle canvas on it instead. So this is a really cheap option, and you can get them in so many different sizes as well as square ones. There are also frames that come with gripper strips on them, which makes the attaching off the fabrics much easier. But of course, they come with the bigger price tag. You could also make one yourself by attaching a creeper strip to a wooden frame. You can see the attachable strip in the picture, but that's another story, and I have no experience in making those. But if you're interested, I'm sure you can find tutorials for that on YouTube. If you're making a round piece, then I recommend that you get one of thes hoops. It's called No sleep poop. This one is by Morgan, and I order it from Amazon. The reason why it is ideal for Punch Needle is that you can, first of all, you can tighten it so that the fabric stays in. But even more importantly, it has a little groove here on On the other hope this a little rich, so those things together prevent your fabric from slipping through between the hoops and becoming loose while you punch. So using one of thes makes punching so much more pleasurable than then using something that's not designed for Punch Needle like these. So these are regular embroidery hoops, and I used these for framing my finished pieces, but they are not very good for punching. I do use them for punching as well, but on you can, too. But just bear in mind that although you can tighten it and make it tight, make the fabric tied on the hoop. Once you start punching, this usually does become little bit loose, and the fabric will start coming off so you end up reattaching your fabric during your process. But they do look pretty on finished pieces. Here's a different kind of embroidery hoop. This is the one that I used when I did my very first punch. The old piece and I can tell you it was a nightmare, this one, because it's plastic on because there's no hope, a misery, no rich or no groove it, kid coming off constantly. Even though I tightened it, it didn't help. So I spend almost as much time reattaching these to my fabric than I did actually punching it. So it was extremely frustrating, and I don't recommend using this kind of embroidery hoop, but at the time, that was the only thing I had. So I did my very first piece with this, but never again. Here I have another one that I had lying around. It's Ah, hoop that I got from my mom, which she has had for decades. She's never done punch needle, but somehow she had this. And although these just have kind of has a a groove and a rage, it still doesn't work very well. It works better than these because this is kind of rubbery plastic on bits. It provides a little bit of friction, so I have used this a little bit, but it's not ideal. You can tighten it so the fabric does come Lewis a bit. But if you do have something already at home, I recommend starting with that so that you don't have to spend so much money. But if you then want to move on to tools that really served a purpose. Really? Well, I do recommend getting getting a no sleep poop like this one. If you're making a round piece, obviously for a square one, you will need to get a frame so their next will move on to fabrics. 5. Fabrics: okay, and next up is fabric. Here in the lift. I have two different eight of fabrics, which I don't recommend using. They can be used, but they're not ideal. This one is a very stiff Andi, heavily starched. This is also stiff, but not as bad. This one, I actually this was the one that I use for my very first punch needle piece, together with that horrible hope that I told you about. And that was a nightmare because it's so starched, it is harder to get it tied on your hoop, and it's also harder to penetrate with the punch needle. So I ended up getting really sore shoulders. Onda hands from from trying to punch it so it's It's not ideal but can be done. Here's another fabric. This is pure cotton on works kind of nicely. It has relatively because you can see where you're punching, but it's not your number one choice. This one, however, is my number one choice. It's monks cloth kind of tightly vote in. This is more loose as you can see the whole star Baker and this one works okay as well. If you're ordering online, this particular one can be found on at least on Amazon. So if you're ordering online, make sure you read the recommendations on DSI. If people have used it for punch Needle, and if they think that it works well because not all amongst cloth is as suited to punch needle as others, so do you. Look into that before you order. I also have burlap, which can be used. I've used this only for one piece, and it worked fine. As long as you have the right size needle on right kind off yarn, it can be used, but it's a little bit messy. You can see that the bits of the the fabric come off on you end up having it all over your your pants, and so far, or whatever your using it. But it does have, ah, lovely, crafty look to it. All right, that's it for fabrics 6. Yarn: all right. Next on to the yarns those of you who know me a little bit to know that I'm crazy about art supplies and I think it's fair to say that the same goes for yarns. I have gone totally overboard and I have hoarded a ton of different kinds of yarn, so I'll have plenty of material to work with for years to come. So here I have some woollen yarns which look a little bit different, but they actually the same weight. They are both 50 grams per 70 meters, which is the Samos. 1.8 ounces per 77 yards. So although they are same in weight, they don't work just as well. So you do need to pay attention to also the texture off the guard, not just a wait. So this one, as you can see it's much more rougher, so it provides more friction when you're punching it into the fabric and thats why this one didn't work at all with any off my fabrics. It kept coming off the fabric. It didn't stay in the loops. So do keep that in mind. So I recommend to go with a smoother yarn like these, these two are a little bit lighter in weight. This one is acrylic, and this is also wool. So, for example, these Shulkin Meyer Not sure if that's how you pronounce it, but that's how I said it. This one is much lighter. It's 50 grams per 133 meters, which equals 1.75 ounces per 146 yards. So this one has bean very nice to work with with these monks cloth as well as this one. So these two, uh, my favorites at the moment and they very nice to work with. I have also worked with cotton, and as you can see, this is much lighter in weight than any off. These are the ones on. This requires a much thinner needle. So, for example, this one that I use with these it's way too big. You can see that the hole is much bigger than the yarn. So then you just need to work with a small needle, a swell, so if you're just starting out and you don't know what kind of yarn to get, I recommend to start with a medium weight yarn, something like 50 grams per 130 meters or 1.75 ounces per 146 yards. Something along those lines and make sure it's relatively smooth. Not not too rough. So you'll have, Ah, nicer start and next I'll go through the needles. 01 more thing. If you're gonna be creating something that needs to be armed in the end, for example, a pillow or a pencil case, and you need to earn some interfacing on it to make the loop, stay in place. Then you have to avoid a Grill Inc yards, and you have to stick with woolen or cotton ones because the acrylic yarns will melt when you are in them, so do keep that in mind. 7. Needles and Threading Them: Okay, so let's talk needles. Here. I have two different kinds of punch needles. There are many more on offer, but they said the once I have The main difference between the two is that with this one, you cannot change the size off the needle. It's always the same. However, you can buy this same same needle from stores in a smaller size, so this one you can actually change between the three different sizes. Another difference, he said, with the larger one. It comes with pre settings. You can choose to have a really long needle or kind of short one on. And what that means is that your loops that then are formed when you're punching will be about half the size off the length off your needle. So these needle would produce loops that are about that toll like that on with this one, they would be about that toll With this one. You can also make the length off the needle different. However, there are no markings, which is which is the only down side with this one, I think so. It is a good practice to measure it and then write it down like For example, I'm using one inch for this piece. For example. This was shorter, but just an example. So then, if it does accidentally come loose than it's easy to just measure it again and make sure that you continue with the same length off needle. Or if you're doing a different piece with the same needle in between and then get back to an older piece that you haven't finished, you can just check how long your needle waas on get going without problems. This is my personal favorite because it's it fits nicely in my hand, but that really is a matter of preference. Other people like it to be much bigger, and I have something more to hold onto, so that really depends. If you have possibility to go to a craft store on try out different ones, that would be ideal. Otherwise you will just have to dress your gut and order online. That's what I did. Actually, first I ordered thes both online. So this one, if you interested buying this one is called Labour Love Order Andi. It costs about less than $20 less than 20 euros, and it came with the threat er and instruction booklet. Later on, I bought another one for my mother, which didn't come with the threat, er nor the booklet, and that was almost half the price. So make sure that you check what's included in the package. This one is by Rico design. I cannot remember the price for, but easily you can cool it easily that also can be found on Amazon. Next. Let's go through how to thread the needle with the tall one. You might have to do it in two faces, depending. What kind of middle Fred are you are you have? First, my needle freighter was so short it on Lee came out of the A needle, a tiny beat. So it was hard to to thread, so I had to do it in two steps. So basically I just sleep the threat er through the needle. Then I put the yarn through the threat. Er like that. Don't pull too much of it through a little bit like that will do. It's easier than to pull it through the needle, especially with the smaller needles. Then in the second face, you put your hand on the bevel. The larger opening off the needle on push the threat or through once again you put your yarn through your threat, Er and you pull it through the little hole like that. And there you have it. However, I use a quicker method because my threat, er, is long enough to do it in one step. So I cover the bevel with my finger. Andi, I push the threat er through the tiny little hole all the way through the needle. The rest is the same. You put the bjorn through, you pull gently until it has come all the way through and Wola. Then you leave a little bit out so that when you start punching, you have, ah, short piece steadier than finish off later. But you don't need to leave a lot off yarn out. It's enough to have a short piece. So that's it that's so simple on this is actually the hardest part of punch needling the rest. He's easy, breezy, so yeah, can't wait to show you how to punch next 8. Punching: All right, so finally wicket to punching. So to get started, make sure you have freed of your needle and you have put your fabric on your frame or your hoop on that you have enough loose yarn out of the skein so that you can get started. So what do you need to know about getting started? Is that the bevel? The larger hole in your needle is always facing the direction that you're going. So if you're punching upwards, the bevel is facing away from you. If you're punching downwards, the bevel is facing you. This is to avoid punching into the yarn so that, you know, kind of to have ah, clear road ahead. So you punched the first hole, and then most people like to pull the yarn to this side, which will be the Lupus side. In the end. I tend not to do this. I just trim it often on on the flat stitch side. But it does help you in a way that your first loop won't get so easily undone. But then again, if you have a whole bunch of loops like here, if one Luke come comes undone, it's it doesn't really matter, but it's a good practice to do to pull it on this side. So in the end, you then trim it to match the hide off your your loops. Imagine that your her central line is your fabric. When you punch your needle all the way into it, your blue yarn will penetrate the fabric. And when you pull back your needle, Chen DLLee, a little loop of pull yarn is left behind. Once your needle is out of the fabric, you keep it close to the surface and slide it a little bit forward on punch again. Then you just keep repeating that because the fabric is tight and you have the right combination off yarn, fabric and needle, your fabric will hug the yarn and keep it in place. Okay, so let me demonstrate what I mean. So you punch your fabric, you pull out your needle very gently. You do your first flats teach you punch again. You pull it out very gently. You do another one, and your loops will start forming on the reverse side on day on the front side, you'll get your flat stages, so when you pull on, it allowed don't lift it in the air. Instead, just pull it out of the fabric gently on moving forward and create your stage. If, however, you accidentally pull your needle too high up in the air, you will probably undo one of your loops. If this happens, don't worry. Just pool at the end of your yarn end of your needle so that old yarn comes through and there's no loose urine left between your needle and your fabric. Andi. Then you continue, so it's not a disaster. But it's just something you need to keep in mind not to pull your needle in the air on Lee , just barely out of the fabric on Bhola. It's that easy. You also want to keep your stitches consistent so that the length of your speech is pretty much the same. If you are doing a design where you're using the loop aside as the side that you're gonna display, you don't have to be as exact. But if you're doing a design where you're displaying this site with the flat stitches, then you want to be more careful. You might even one account the holes and punch in every second hole off the fabric. Like if you if I would punch here and then maybe count. 123 holes. Another punch. 123 whole. Three. Another punch. Um, but since I'm doing a loopy version, I'm not worried about being exact. Another thing you need to pay attention trees when you turn, that's when once you are inside the fabric, you turn your needles so that the bevel is once again facing the direction that you're gonna go. If you don't know in what direction you are, needle lists inside. You can always check on this side, so that's OK. I need to turn it this way. It's a total disaster if you make a mistake, but it is just to prevent you from punching into the arm like I said before. Also, it's a good practice to first do the outlines off your section that you're working on. I am not doing a design here. I'm merely demonstrating how you punch. But let's say I was doing this piece so I would first want to punch the outline, for example, off this white section. So punch here. Then I would start working inwards in a circle emotion like that and eventually I would get to the end. Having punched the whole white area, they know what change color will actually know, Wouldn't I would punch the other white area and do the outlines and then work in words in a circle emotion they don't would change color and do another ah section with a different color. Also, I recommend that you do a little test run before you start your actual piece of you working on so that you are sure that your fabric and your yorn on your needle work well together. If you have bought already made punch needle kids to, you probably don't have to worry about that, cause they would have made sure that they all work well together. Okay, so here you see how I work it so that old and old, the stitches on nicely next to each other so that the end result is also nice on dense like that. Once you're done again, you cut off the yarn on the little beside. Then in the end, you trim them too much the height off your loops like that so the ends will disappear within, like between the loops. And here you have, ah, clean a flat stitch 9. Stitches: next up are STI cheese. One thing that many people are wondering about is how maney sti cheese can you make with a punch needle. The answer is simple one. So although these stitches look very different from one another, they actually made with exactly the same kind of speech. The loops are the opposite side off the flat stitches, which are also known as the Saturn stitches. So here you can give your work a different look by varying how you do the speech. But this teaches still the same. So here in the bottom one, which looks a little bit like it's machine made, I have kept the length off the stage and the placement of the States, except of the same. So I've gone stitched all the way here. And then on my way back, I'm punching exactly in the same spot as I have done on the first line, and I'm keeping the stitch length exactly the same in the 2nd 1 I have kept the legs off the stage exactly the same, but I have varied the placement. So once a rich here, I don't punch next to the previous whole. Instead, I punch in the middle off the previous teach. Therefore, it creates this masonry style layout. Here I have kept the same placement, but I have varied the length of the stage, so have created a short one long one short, one, long one. And then on my way back I have done exactly the same in the same order. Long one short, one long, one short one and placed them exactly in the same sport as on the previous line at all. Three. Give you Ah, different look. Same goes for the loops. You can get different looks by using different dorn. If you have a thicker yarn, even the same sighs loops will look different here. I have short loops, medium ones and long ones. On the way. I get them to look differently. Stepped for the short ones. I have used a short needle and for the long months, my needle has been longer, so very simple. If I want to take it further, I could cut these loops. Andi, I would get yet another look for my surface of the design. So there are things you can do to to give variation to your design. But essentially there is just one stage that you're using on if you have a come across a different one employees let me know. 10. My Favourite Tools: Here's a claims to the tools that on my favorite at the moment. 11. Q&A: it's Q and a time when I first started to learn Punch Needle, I had so many questions and no single place to find the answers from I wondered, Why don't my stages day? How long does it take to punch one project? How much you aren't? Do I need the least went off? So to save you the trouble, I have tried together all the big questions and answer them here for you. So here goes. So let's start with one of the biggest questions I had in the beginning. How long does it take to actually complete something like, Can I create this in one evening? Well, the answer is yes. That's the beauty of Punch Neil, is that it is pretty fast to do. Unlike meeting Oak Rochet, which takes me forever to complete something with Punch Needle. You can make something in just one night. So, for example, this piece that we're gonna be grating in the class project This would take me less than an hour to punch. Obviously, it will take a little bit longer for a beginner because you're still figuring things out. Your making mistakes, you're trying to figure out what needle yarn on fabric go together and so one. But in general it's really fast, and obviously you need to reserve a little bit of time also to drawing your design and transferring it onto onto your fabric. So overall this would take more than an hour, but definitely a piece that can be done in one evening so that it's one of the things that got me super excited about punch Needle work is that it's just so quick to complete. Okay, another thing that I was wondering about these. How big should I make my loops? You might be able to check this from your instructions. They might tell you what size needle to use, but often times you have to figure it out for yourself. So I have made this little example for your guys, where I have used all the four different settings that come with the record design punch needle. So the shortest ones are created with the shortest sitting sitting D. The 2nd 1 is done with setting. See this one. The second longest ones are done with sitting be on, then the longest loops are done with setting a so you can see that the needles Preeti Long on the other side, the stitches look pretty much the same. I have used the same stitch length. So let me show you. This is now the longest setting. So let me show you how that works. I'll start another row, do a couple more so, as he concedes, creating Preeti long loops. And this could be really nice, for example, for a pillow or a piece that you could hang on the wall. So this is really a matter of preference as well. Obviously, if you're doing something that you're gonna be using, you might want us like a pencil case or a piece that you're gonna attach. Teoh A garment, for example, like pockets or something that you might want to keep your your stitches pretty short because there's less risk off getting them caught in things because this loop would very easily get caught in your nails or zippers and stuff like that. So keep that in mind one question that at least I had when I was first. Starting out east. Can you use your scrip materials like here, for example, I have one meter off yarn, so that's about 40 inches off off yarn. Andi, the answer is absolutely yes, You can use all your scrap leftover yarns as long as they are not to think. Andi. They work well with the other yards that you're using for the same piece and then related to that. How much can I produce with certain amount off yarn? Like if I have one meter for the inches, how much will that resulting like what kind off end result will I get with it? So with this yarn, I was able to punch a little petal for a flower, for example. This is also done with one meter, 40 inches off yarn, and so is this. This is 17 centimeters, which equals about 6.7 inches. So this amount of yarn results in this. Obviously it varies a little bit, depending on how long your loops will be. So if you're making really long loops, obviously it will be a shorter section that you'll be able to do or a smaller part of the petrol. So here I was using my four centimeter needle, which is about 1.6 inches. So if I was using Shorter Needle, I would have gone even longer. Okay, So the number one question is probably Why do my loops become undone? That is probably the question that causes the most bafflement and anger when you punched, needling, like, why on earth don't the loop staying and what where the stage is becoming undone? Well, there are a number of reasons why this might be happening. You might be leaning on the yarn so that when you're punching, eventually, once you punched long enough, it will stop running freely because you're leading your hand on it or you're holding it in your hand without realizing it. Like I might have it in my hand here. And then I'm punching away and all of a sudden it stops running freely. Same might happen if you have accidentally dropped your skin on the floor, so you might be stepping on it without realizing it. And so make sure that, you know, doing that. That's probably the most common reason. Another one is that there might be a knot in your yard. It could well be that the North has already entered the needle because the whole here is bigger than in the other end. So it might be that it got in the needle, but it can come out so that's easily tested by just trying to pull it and see if it doesn't work, then you gotta not insides, and you need to sort that out. Also, they might be a not inside this cane so that it's not coming out freely from there. That also can be just tested by pulling, pulling the yarn a seeing if it comes out nice and easy. Also, one reason might be that your yarn is too big or too sick for your needle. So if it doesn't run nicely through the needle, then that might be the reason that it's just to think for the needle you're using. So try a bigger needle size or thinner yarn. It would also be a combination off your fabric, your needles and your yarn together. So by changing one of those elements, your loops might start staying staying in. So do try switching the competence and see if that solves the problem. So those are the main things that I can think off that might cost you, too. Have you loops becoming undone. I hope these explanations help you and you will have less off those frustrating situations . So how much you aren't? Do you need? Well, that depends on several things. First of all, the thicker your yarn, the less of it you will need, uh, defense in your design if you have a design that, for example, has just something small in the middle. And then the itchy security sign is just plain fabric like this that you're not punching from one side to the other, So then you'll obviously need less yard. Also, if you're doing really big loops, you'll need more yarn than if you're doing short ones like these that just barely come out of the fabric. So So it varies a lot, for example, for this piece, which was my very first piece that I ever did with this horrible Steve eight of fabric on that ridiculous blue hoop that I told you about. So this one, which is about 20 centimeters in size that equals eight inches, so this one took about 100 meters, which equals about 109 yards off yarn on that basically ease about one skein off yarn if it's medium weight, so it really depends on many things, but I advise you to have a look at the instructions. If you have some that they should tell you how much garden you will need. If you don't have instructions, you can always look at instructions for a similar piece that you're doing. Like maybe another piece that has the same size, even if the decides different. And then you can guess from there. Ideally, you can go back to the store and buy more off the yarn you've needed. What if you make a mistake? Is it hard to undo the stitches? Absolutely not. It is actually very satisfying. Teoh, undo punch needle speeches. So to just get the ending or the beginning out, and then you just pull. This is really nice to do here. You can see that I have punched into the yarn, probably on my way down when I was punching next to the first line. So not to worry. I can just start undoing in a different section. Andi thin. The whole thing will come off. You can fix the fabric to get rid off the holes that you have punched on bond there. Then you're ready to start over again. Or you could be just undoing a little short section and then continue without even taking the guard off your needle. So easy peasy. I hope these explanations and answers help you figure out what the problem might be if this is happening to you. So happy punching Andi. Let's move on. 12. Pro Tip: If you really get into this, you might discover that your hands, wrists and shoulders might become sore from all the punching. One way to ease that is to use a special punch needle. Hope that has the build in lab stand like this. Google and Amazon will be our best friends. If you want one of these, at least Morgan produces them for a cheaper option. This idea laptop support is what I have recently started using to help me have have a little bit better posture while punching. I know it's not perfect, but it has definitely helped me work in a more economic position. And since I Kia can be found almost all over the world, many people will be able to access these. 13. Class Project Introduction: Yes, it's finally time to start the project. Remember that you can find the brief written instructions on the project, and resource is page. That's where you'll also find the template for the flash project. The Little Rainbow For the bonus templates, you'll find a link in the class description, and the password could be found in the Inspiration video. Next, I'll go through all the steps with you from setting everything up to punching the actual design and finally to finishing it. I hope we will help you post your process on your final project in skill share, so that others can be inspired by what you have created. You can also post them on instagram and tag them with hashtag skill share with Yeah, yeah, with a J on they might end up in my instagram stories, but now let's go 14. Templates: To get started with the class project, you first need to either print the template out or draw it. I will start by saying a few words about using the templates and then in the next lesson, walking through the drawing process, you'll find the rainbow template on the projects, and resource is Paige. That's where you also find even more simple color blocks template. If you want to start with something super simple, printing the template out will be the simplest and quickest way to get started. I recommend watching the drawing lesson, though, as I've included some important information that you might find useful, especially if you do end up drawing a design or two by hand. Once you get really hoped into Punch Needle like I have next, they'll show you how to draw your design in case you can't access the printer or just prefer drawing. I will also tell you why you need to use the mirror image off your design if its direction dependent, like a later 15. Drawing the Design: Let's draw. I'm going to start by crabbing some creed paper on and placing my hoop onto the fabric. Then I will draw the shape of the hoop here. So I know where, how much room I have to drawn on. Yes, I know this is not an ideal hope for doing Punch Needle, but this is the one that I'm gonna be using for this rainbow design. I know for a fact that is probably going to come off when I start punching. But since it is a small the sign, I'm willing to take that risk here. You'll see me trying the rainbow in random order, as I have already sketched it very lightly onto the page. But I do recommend drawing it in certain order. So in case you're drawing your own rainbow, I recommend taking a look at the template anyway to make your drawing process quicker. As you can see, I have added short instructions on the template about drawing it, the main point being that it's easiest to start with the smallest arch and work upwards from there. So once you're somewhat happy with your design, you can draw on top of it with a pen so that you can then see the lines a little bit better when you start transferring it onto the fabric. Don't worry about making your design absolutely perfect. Since it's transferred to the fabric, you won't be able to make it extremely detailed anyway. The more simple your design, the better it is in the beginning, especially, you don't want to make it too complicated. So once you punch, it doesn't matter. If you're line is dead straight or a little bit wonky, the loops will be very forgiving once you punch them in. So no stress. Okay, here we go. So here's my design. Next, I'm gonna transfer it on to the fabric. There's one extra step that you need to take if your design is direction dependent. What I mean by that is that if you are punching a design that has a later or some text on it, you need to draw the mirror image on your design. The reason you need to do this is if you transfer this onto a fabric and you punch it. The loops will be formed on the backside, and once you're done, the backside is the one that you're displaying the loops would be on this side, so you would realize that your literacy wrong way around. So to do that, all you need to dio place your design on a window. You can already see it through here, but you'll see that he see it even better if you put it in a window and then just transfer go design to the other side, and then you use that side, your mirror image side to transfer the design on to your fabric. 16. Transferring the Design: Okay. I have decided to use months cloth for this design, so I need to measure the right amount. It will be a good idea to earn this before I get going. So I want to cut a piece so that I have about an inch or so maybe four centimeters on each side. So there's enough fabric to do the final touches, like maybe attached the sides to hoop or or so them. If I put it on a ball without a frame. So yes, I'll leave. Leave a little bit extra on the sides like that, and then I'll just cut it here. Now that the fabric is caught, I will add some masking tape. Two decides to the edges to stop it from fraying. More monks, cloth phrase really easily, as he can see it starting to pray like that. Alternatively, I could just do a little so a little six AC thesis a quicker method. So I'm doing this, but it's up to you. Or then you just cut even a little bit more that you have room for the fraying and fraying , and then you can cut that part off. Once your done with your project, But this is what I usually do. It's quick on easy. You could do it on both sides, but I have noticed that doing it on just one side usually is enough should transfer my design. Oh, into the fabric. I have decided to use a window. I could be doing this also with the light pad, but since it's pretty light outside the window will do. It'll be a quicker method. I don't need Teoh. Stick out my lo pent, so make sure that your design is approximately in the middle off your fabric so that there's enough room on all sides. So once you attach it onto the frame that you don't realize, oh, I drew it in a wrong spot. I recommend using a pencil. That way you might be able to fix it if it doesn't go perfectly. It is a little bit hard to erase from fabric, but if you draw with the pen, then absolutely nothing can be raised. And if you need to, you can then in the end, make the lines more visible by going over the line. Sweet the pen, Okay, but this is not a new exact science. Okay, that'll do 17. Attaching the Fabric: for my project, I'll be using around in broader hoop. And yes, I know it's not ideal as it will probably come off the fabric a few times, but it is the perfect size. And since the project is small and quick, I'm gonna take my chances. If you have a small, non sleep poop, I recommend to use that or a small square frame will also work. Fine. So you start by placing your smaller group under the fabric and the larger hoop on top off the fabric. Try to get your design right in the middle off your frame. Once you're happy with it, you tighten the screw a little on. Then you pull the fabric fabric really tight and lastly, you tighten the screw as tight as it can go, maybe with the help of a screwdriver. And remember, when you pull the fabric, be careful that you don't pull, pull it off the hope which happens very easily. Then you just start all over again. Once you're happy with your design, you can do the bones, the coin test and see that it's tight enough and that's it. Oh, before we move on, I want to show you two more things. You might want to take the sites of your fabric to prevent it from frame. Your other option is to leave about two inches or 45 centimeters of fabric around all the edges so that you can cut the freight bits off at the end. Leaving a bit of extra fabric around the edges also gives you the possibility to so decides afterwards or fold them neatly behind your project before displaying it. Next, I'm going to show you how to attach your fabric onto a square or rectangular frame. I'll be using Stubbs as they are easier to detach. Once your project is gun, you could be using staples as well. But those are pretty hard to detached in the end, when you're done with punching and let me demonstrate why that's important that you have that option to detach your fabric. So here we have one project, which is in the punching mode, so to say so that if you can see the difference, let me show you that finished beside. So this is a little beside that I wanna display in the end, and when I punch it, my fabric is placed in the frame so that the loops will be kind of at the bottom, off the frame, if you will. And here, once I'm finished with the project, I have turned it around and re attached it to the frame so that the loopy side is actually levelled with the top part of the frame. Can you see the difference? So when I'm punching, the flat stateside is leveled with the top part of the frame. And when I'm done with it, the flats teachers are at the bottom off the frame, if you will. So you are very likely to detach your frame from your fabric once you're done. So that's why I recommend using stables. Okay, so on protection the fabric to the flat side off, my friend. Not here because it's much easier on for demonstration purposes. I'm using a little piece off eight a cloth which is not very good for punching. But this is just to demonstrate how I how I do this. So I start by attaching two corners. I try to make it tight. Whenever I put a studying, I tried to make it tight. You will want to use a soft frame a soft as possible. Pine is one of the softest trees, So if you can find pine or even spruce frames, that's great. It makes it easier to penetrate the wood. Okay, so now I'm done with the first sides. Next, I'm gonna work on the opposite side on. And every time I put a study, I tried to make the fabric as tight ask possible. Now you want to be really careful with your last side because that's the last chance to make the fabric really type. The tighter your fabric, the more fun punching will be because the needle will penetrate the fabric really easily. So you contest. If you're fabric is tight enough, you're supposed to be able to bounce things off it. Yeah, it's pretty good. But if you're not happy with it, what? There is one thing that you can do. I'm gonna demonstrate how to do that with the larger frame. Okay, so here's one more thing you can do if you're not happy with how tight your fabric is on your wooden frame. So, just like with regular paint canvases, you can use the switches to make your frame a little bit larger, which then at the same time stretches your fabric tighter on the frame. So as I'm using a canvas painting canvas that I've just detached the canvas from, I also have these wedges that came with it. So all I need to do is put them in just the same as I would if I was doing this to a painting canvas. So if you can see there are two holes on in each corner and you push the wedge into the hole like that on, then you just show them a little bit of on these stretches, the canvas a little bit tighter to your. That's a very simple trick. This should help. A little bit on your canvas is stretched. 18. About Choosing Colors: I'm not going to tell you what cars to pick as it's a matter of preference. Instead, I'll give you a tip. Here are the colors I have Joadson to make sure the colors look good together. I have done a little test. To be honest, I have never done this before, but I have paid the price for it. As it happens, sometimes cars look nice together when they're on the table, but end up looking less good once they're punched into a design. And this has happened to me a few times. So to avoid time consuming mistakes, you can test how the colors look together in a design by punching a little test piece. It's not an idiot proof method, as the size of the area that you punch with any given color will also affect how it looks together with the colors next to it. But at least you can minimize the likelihood that you need to undo a part of your design because the colors just don't work, and another benefit off the tests piece is that do you know whether or not you go yarn fabric? A needle will work well together, so I do recommend you give it a dry 19. Punching Part 1: Arches: Yea, it's finally time to start punching, so make sure you call your tools ready your needle, your hoop with your decide on a threat Er on. Then get enough loose yarn from your skin so that it can run freely and it'll be nicer to work. I will also have my main ingredient, some coffee to keep me going and then I'm ready to start. So I'm gonna start by threading my needle a super Remember, I'll block the bevel with my finger and insert the threat er from the tiny hole on the top off the needle. Then I'll insert the yarn through the thread er on gently pull it through the needle like that and I'm ready to go. I'm gonna do the outer arch first and I'm gonna dude with these PCI Petey Rose color And then I'm gonna use the mint for the middle one on the blue one for the smallest arch. So I'm gonna start by facing the larger whole off the needle away from myself because I'm gonna be punching in this direction and I'm going to do with the outlines first and then work in words from there. So here we go. I am turning my hoop as I go. I could be also just keeping it still and turned a needle. But since my hoop is so small, I find it easier chest to turn the hoop around a little bit so that I can keep my needle in the same position all the time. 01 thing that I did forget to do is measure how tall my needle is. I'm gonna measure mine now, so mine is four centimeters, so that is one point five inches approximately pro tip. If you use masking tape to prevent your fabric from fraying, right, your needle length or sitting on that and you'll never lose your note. It's a little bit hard to punch when I'm working on this side and it's so close to the table. So I keep hitting the needle on the table so I might want to turn into little bits to avoid doing that. I'm also noticing that my design is not the first arches, not perfectly the same width throughout. So it's much thinner here than here. That's not a problem. I can just do a little bit more here or fix it on this side once I have finished it. So Punch Needle is very forgiving in that way that you can just have a look how it looks and then adjusted as needed thistles me punching in real time now gonna try to do it so that I'm punching towards myself. Because last time I noticed that I kept hitting the table since I'm holding it, I'm right handed on holding the hoop, um, so that the right side is leading on the table. So I think this way I will avoid hitting the table all the time while on the start of the design, get some more, lose your arm. This time I'm not pulling from inside this cane because excellently started pulling it from outside. Usually I tried to get it from inside this cane. So that way, this game doesn't rotate all over the place. When I pull more yarn and it's less likely to fall on the floor, I just love the sound often hittle penetrating the fabric and doing this crunchy sound. Remember that the large bevel is always facing in the direction where you're punching This way you will avoid punching into the yard s you go Okay, so now I'm noticing that my flats teachers are covering the whole whole area that I have here, but here it's not. So instead of forcing it and punching between here, I will just cut the yarn and continue from here. If I punch in between here, I will probably make it too crowded and it will show on the loopy side. So now it looks nice, and even so, I don't want to ruin that. So instead, like I said, it's thicker here than it's here. I'm gonna fix that by doing a little line of stitches on the outer edge here later. So for now, I'm gonna cut my You are here like that, and then I can fix it immediately here. Or then leave it until the end and then cut off all the loose ends in the end. And same goes for this. Many people prefer to bring the loose and here when you start. But I sometimes don't bother and just leave it on the side. These might actually be fine if I leave this unstitched, but you can shake that chick that from these side and see if it looks like you can see the fabric through. I think it's actually dense enough, so I'm not gonna complete that. And now, as you can see, my my design is going all the way to the edges. So it's impossible for me to punch more onto the outer edge because it's already touching the side of the loop at the hoop. Sorry. So I'm gonna do that once I've finished the rest of it and then just move the design little bit or put it in a larger hoop to fix that bit. So that means that I need to change the color of the arm. Where's my better gone? Here it ISS and we're ready to go again. I will leave a little gap in between where I will punch a little bit off white. I'm gonna pull my you aren't. You decide. Then get going. Try to make sure that I do believe that gap that it doesn't get too crowded and they will be enough room to do one line off white stitches. Okay, this wasn't working very well. What's happening here? The yarn is becoming Messi. I think this a little. Yeah, there's something in the yarn here, some kind of it feels like this. This is a little bit off glue or something in there. So I'm just gonna cut that loose and start over again. And I'm gonna pull the last loop that I made to this side so that I can finish it off nicely. And where are you? Loop. You could have just cut the whole thing on this side. The worst thing that would happen is that you would lose one loop on this side later on if if the end off the yarn would run through. So it really is no big deal if you do that. So there are immediately noticed that the yarn wasn't flowing freely that something was up , but I couldn't see you're not there. And that was because there wasn't or not. But there was something in the yarn that had ended up there in the factory where they made it. It felt like it was some kind of plastic e glue, a bit that had tried up in the yarn which prevented it from flowing freely as it wasn't smooth. Oh, see, that's where it happened. My needle accidentally went in. So this is the reason why I want you to measure your needle before you start punching. Because now it would be impossible for me to know exactly what length my needle waas And if I hadn't measured, I would just have to try it out and see When do I start getting the same length loops on the other side? So instead, I can just measure. It's almost exactly four centimeters. I have already learned to kind of estimate. Yeah, it's four centimeters and now make sure that it's tight. Okay, we ggo. So that was a great thing to happen, so you could actually see how it can go. But of course, that's not a problem. If you're using a needle that has fixed settings like this, this one doesn't slide. Shouldn't at least slight inside the handle, no matter how hard you punch or if you have not in your yard. Okay, time for the last Arch with the flu. So far, the design has taking me about half an hour to punch. So all these three argies so far on that actually includes a few minutes for pondering and wondering how I'm gonna go about it. So less than half an hour as you can see why. I don't know if you actually can see. But I can tell you that because I have done the outlines first. Now it gets easier to and faster to punch inside the outlines. For example, if I was watching TV now, I wouldn't really have to pay that much attention, Teoh, where I'm punching because I just followed the previous line on and I can't go too wrong. So it definitely is a good practice to do your out of lines first. Oh, it happened again. Next, I will hope onto the punching part to lessen and continue from where I left off here. 20. Punching Part 2: Cleaning up & Finishing: Okay. As you can see, it's not perfect from this side. But that doesn't matter, because this is decide I'm gonna be using for displaying. I'm gonna finish by cutting all the loose ends. Just match them with the height of your loops. But this one And now, before I punch the white between the arches, I want to go through these areas where the colors meat. Because, as you can see, I have some off. The stitches are punched into each other. So no, all the peachy color is own this side. Some of it might have ended up in between the mint color, for example. Here, I hope you can see it. I have punched it so that their little bit intertwined here. No, that's tricky. So I'm trying to separate them so that I won't punch even more into the yarns. When I do the white, it doesn't matter if you do it. It's just it just looks neater if all the colors are on their own side or in the section where you were punching them and they're not mixing here, But that's a matter of preference. You you don't have to do this big if you don't mind the means and mind the colors mixing with each other. And when you do this, just be careful not to pool the yarn too heavily, because you will also pull the loop out. It's not a disaster if that happens, but you don't want to be pulling a load off the loops out. Then it will start affecting the look off your project, so be careful when you do it. So I'm saying, Oh, hi. I thought I'd drop in to say hi as it's probably really boring or get my hands all the time . Let's see here. So here's a good example. I hope you can see it. I The Pizzey color is completely going over the mint loop some Chantilly trying to pull the means back through like that so that it's no longer intertwined with the peach loop. Same here. I'm pulling the mint out from the peach. Look, here's monos. Well, the peach loop is completely going under the meat loops here. So one out, then this Another one Which way? I think three mean loops where inter wind with just this one peach loop. Wow, I think that was a record. So these can take a little bit of time if you decide to do this. So if you wanna finish something fast, you might just want to skip this whole step because you can. I'm just a little bit of a perfectionist, as some of you might know, so I cannot leave it at that. I just have to fix it. Okay, so now they are just already on cleaned up, and now I know that I'm looking at it. I'm noticing that I'm not a big fan off the colors after all, although I did try them out here and I thought they look fine together. But now I can see that this is so much darker than these cheered that it's kind of bothering me a bit. But yeah, that's what happens. And that's why it's important to test your colors. It's not too bad, but let's see if it helps at all. If I add the whites in between the arches, here's an earlier piece where the colors are more balanced. In my opinion, it could have helped if I had placed my darkest color in the middle with my class project. But it's too late now on I'm fine with it. And nothing I could do these two. I could add a darker shade or any shade that would balance them off to the rest off the design. But I'm not sure I want to do that, so we'll see. I'll do the arteries first. Yeah, I like that. I like how that kindof separates the car chase from each other. One of my favorite things about Punch Needle is that you don't have to tie are not to the loose ends off the yard. That's something that really bothers me when you're doing other type off sewing or meeting or crow. Shea. I hate finishing off the endings off the guards, so I love it that you don't have to do with Punch Needle there. It's that quick. I love it. Okay. And then the other ones. Okay, what's happening? Ah, it's not running freely. There's something in there. I'm pulling. It is not coming out. So I'm guessing that there's a not Yeah, there's something. Yep, they're not. That's easy. Fix. I just thread the needle again on and off I go. That's the beauty of Punch Needle. Another thing that is super easy. You can just cut your yarn and start going again real quick, like it's I love it so simple. So the minute you notice that your yarns not coming through nicely, you can check. That is, there are not Or are you leaning on your yarn standing on your yarn? And most likely, you'll figure it out pretty quickly. Why the that yards? Not running smoothly. Right? Okay, I can see that. Yeah, that was where my knots There was not Onda. Apparently that poured out the the loops from this side. So I need to really do those. You can see that this a gap in the white loops here. So I read, Do those. Yeah, that's section didn't come through very nicely, but I'm thinking that I actually want to have two sets of loops all the way. Some just gonna punch all the way till the end on, then redo the beginning so that I have two lines off white loops so that you can distinguish them a little bit better. So now I have done to rows off white stitches between the different colors, and I think that looks better. It even helps a little bit with the dark blue versus the past light pesto, other colors. So I'm happy with that. Next up, I will take the loop off Andrea, attach it so that I can fix these sides to make them a little bit more even. Okay, so now we'll have fixed the sides off the largest arch. As you can see now, they are the same weeds here as they are up here. So what I did Waas. I just added a row off extra stitches from here to here on this side and same here from from the bottom all the way here. Andi Now the arch looks much better, so it's a very easy fix. If you realize that some shape is not as you planned, you can just add Steve cheese to eat at a later stage. So there I also detached the previous I hope I was using this size hoop when I was punching , but I realized that's too small. I made this art a tiny bit larger than this one. I mean, this rainbow of time to get larger than this one. So I put it on a larger hoop for framing. So this is actually going to be the frame for the final piece 21. Framing the Project: at the end of the previous listen, you might have seen that I had already attached my design to a new and final frame. But before I get into showing you how to friend your design, I want to show you a project where I have used if usable, interfacing. This here is a throw pillow that I'm making, and I have ironed the physical interfacing on the reverse side off the design to make sure that none off the loops will come off. When the pillow will be news for pieces that you hang on the wall, you won't need to do this. Another option is to use textile glue. It's very simple. You just spread the glue to the back of your design with a brush like I'm doing here. So when do you have to do this? Well, gluing or interfacing is a good idea. If you're making throw pillows, pencil cases, bags, pouches, toys or anything that would get handled a lot. That's the basic rule of thumb, and now we're finally ready to frame. Since I already framed my friend Bob Project, I will use this hills designed to show you the framing, so you start by detaching your design from the hoop or your frame you turned the fabric around. Then you place your smaller hoop under the design on the larger one on top. Try to center your design in the middle of the hoop and push the hoops together. When you happy with it tightened to screw a little bit or as much as you can with your fingers and then you tighten the fabric. You don't have to make it super tight this time because we're not punching anymore. So just tight enough so that it looks nice on the frame and when you are happy with it, then you tighten the screw as Titus it goes so that the brain doesn't accidentally come off when you have it. And when you're done, you can move on to the final steps. So next what? I'm gonna do these. I'm gonna add some two sided tape and I'm gonna glue it here, do the inner side of the hoop, and then I'm just gonna attach the left over fabric to the tape. As I have done here, I have also cut the fabric so that there's not too much extra fabric in the corner, so I'll caught that a little bit. If you want to, you can add some tape here, a swell the same kind of tapes I've used here if you're worried that it will start fraying . But if you are using your final project to hang on the wall, it's very unlikely that it will fray much more because no one's gonna be touching it. But it's up to you. It's not necessary, but it can be done. So I'm just going to start clue ing the tape here. Thesis then, just so you know, this is something that I'm not gonna undo. So if you're planning to use your frame for something else later, I recommend you don't clue it onto the sides. You could. Also, instead of using two sided tape, you could just use fabric, glue or any glue that suitable for wood and fabric. So other option would be just to maybe take them lightly with any tape what she tape or masking tape to the backside off your design so that they hold inside the hoop and don't show if you're hanging it on the wall so it doesn't have to be a permanent thing like I have done here. Of course, this could be undone this well, but the clue from the tape would probably not come off, so it would not be ideal for using another time. So but that's up to you. But I'm going to continue gluing the tape to the sides. Okay, So once it's clued on to the hoop, then take off the paper, peel off the paper. If you are using some kind of glue, just be careful that you don't get it on your on this part of the fabric because it could potentially stain it and show through on the front side. So keep that in mind. Be careful with the glue. Okay, so now I'm gonna carefully start attaching the fabric on to the, uh And as you can see, I'm squeaky escaping parts off the fabric, so kind of like try to attach it every few inches, Andi, make it as tight as possible, and then finish the other Lewis bits. These phone actually reach all the way. So I shouldn't have actually, but the tape here, Maybe I can put this to prevent all the dust And what not from getting glued onto the frame . Not that so much dust will get in there. I mean, this will be hanging against the wall, So here we go. OK, so now you can see a little bumps on this side. So to get rid of those, well, you can just push it from this side. And also here, you can make sure that just have to try and see, like, straightening out on this side and then see if it's still bomb. Be on the front. It's not hard to fix. Okay, so here's the finished piece. The total time that I spend on this would probably be about an hour, including the sketching, finishing, gluing the edges. So all of it, Andi, even for a beginner, you can definitely complete this in one evening. It's so easy and quick to dio. I hope you had fun completing this project with me. Andi, I really hope that you share what you created in the project section so everybody else can see what kind of things people have been working on and also to give inspiration to others . So thank you for joining me. 22. Thank you: Oh my gosh, I can't believe we're done. I hope you fell in love with Punch Needle as much as I have. It's such an easy and fast craft to do. And there are so many cool things that you can make. I would love to hear your feedback on the class both the good and the bad. But police re kind and please, please, please post your process on your final project onto the project and resource is page. Why? Well, because it's exciting for me and other students to see what you made. It could be super useful for others to see what kind of ideas you came up with. Ideas that maybe I didn't think off like new designs or color combinations or ideas on how to use your final punching a project. It's also eye candy if you like. You can post your images to Instagram and attack me with hashtag skill share with yeah, so can cheer you on there a swell And finally, I'd like to thank you for taking this time to hang out with me, happy creating by until we meet again.