Printmaking Party! - Block Printing on Fabric | Danielle Broder | Skillshare

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Printmaking Party! - Block Printing on Fabric

teacher avatar Danielle Broder, Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (11m)
    • 1. Welcome!

    • 2. Tools for the Project

    • 3. Creating your Design

    • 4. Transferring your Design

    • 5. Carving your Monogram

    • 6. Paint and Printing!

    • 7. Setting

    • 8. Final Thoughts

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About This Class

Want to learn a ton more about block printing? Make sure and come visit me over at The Recoverie, where you'll learn more about inks, tools, fabrics, and more.

Do you like to make stuff but feel like your drawing or painting skills aren’t up to par?  You won’t have a problem with that in this class.  Prepare to be impressed with yourself!  

Block printing has been around for thousands of years, yet it's still a great modern way to create unique handmade designs on anything from your holiday cards to that sweet fanny pack you scored at the thrift store.  In this class you will get down and dirty with learning the various methods of rubber block printing onto fabric.

During the video you will learn to design, carve, and print your own custom monogram stamp.  You will also achieve a basic knowledge of tools, inks, process, and insider tricks and tips.  

This class is for anyone with or without any artistic skills who wants to learn a simple and fun way to apply designs to fabric.

(The class project is based around a monogram design, but as you can see below, you can turn any design into a block print!)


Meet Your Teacher

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Danielle Broder



Hey! I'm Danielle, and I’m the one woman show behind everything here at The Recoverie.

I’m here to inspire, motivate, and give you a general swift kick in the ass when it comes to pursuing your crafty dreams.

A native California girl, I was brought up creating.

Whether it was beading my own jewelry, building stick forts on the beach in Malibu, or learning how to crochet on a road trip to Santa Cruz, I was lucky to have people around me who always encouraged me to keep making stuff as a kid.

By a swift chance of fate, I ended up earning a double bachelors in illustration and interior design, which led me to my booming interior design career....


Mostly that just taught me that I didn't want to work for someone else &... See full profile

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1. Welcome!: Hey, everybody, I'm Daniel Broder and I'm here in my home studio in San Francisco, and today I'm going to teach you how to block print. I started block printing a little over six years ago because I was looking for a great handmade way to put my illustrations onto textiles. Block printing is a really great medium because super forgiving and you don't have to have a crazy good art skills to actually create something really impressive. It's inexpensive. You can get the tools online for pretty cheap, and you can finish a project in a few hours or less. Today, we're gonna go over all the basics for creating a block printed monogram and putting it on to fabric. You're gonna learn about tools and techniques you're gonna learn about. Thanks. So get some insider tips and then you're going to create a handmade monogram on a block, and then you can customize anything from tote bags to gift wrap, and you're going to create something like this. Let's go ahead and get started on your pattern 2. Tools for the Project: So to get started on your print, you're gonna need a handful of tools to get started. The first thing you're gonna need is you're going to need a rubber block. Your rubber block may look gray like this, or it may look pink like this. There's also a blue version. I haven't found much difference in any of the textures. So feel free to use any of them. These air, all speedball brands which are easily found online. Um, you're also going to need a foreign judge, Robert Soft rubber. Breyer, make sure you're getting the soft rubber one and not the hard plastic one. This one is specifically for water based ink, which we're going to be using today. Also. Speedball brand. Uh, the next thing you're gonna need is a set of standard block printing line. Oh, cutters. This could be used on linoleum block, which we're not going to be using today. But if you choose to go that direction later, that's fine. Um, the blades air held inside the handle, and this is just also speak program. Um, next, you're gonna need a pair of little scissors. Ah, piece of plexiglass. This is just a eight by 10 Piece of Plexi You can get it a Home Depot. You can also use piece of glass from a frame. You need some water based screen printing ink. This is just speedball brand as well. This works perfectly fine. Make sure it's for fabric, and it just doesn't say block printing. If it says I should say fabric or say heat set on it next, you'll need a ruler. This is optional. If you want to create a repeat pattern, a metal spoon for the transfer. Some junkie 35 cents art brushes from moving paint around or some little plastic spoons, pencil, some scratch paper and some fabric scraps to print on to practice and on iron for heat setting. 3. Creating your Design: So now we're ready to create a design. The first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna take our paper and R block, and we're going to trace our block onto the paper to create some of them now. So when you're creating your design, you want to make sure innkeeper design bold and you want to use the whole space. Remember that. The smaller the details you have on your block, the more difficult it will be to carve. So go ahead and create some patterns, and next we're gonna work on transferring your design. 4. Transferring your Design: So here we have some some different thumbnails on different designs. I've chosen to use this one. So the next thing I want to do to get ready for the transfer is I'm gonna actually take the outline. I'm going to cover the whole thing in another layer of graphite when the dark in it, Like so to make sure that it's gonna have enough graphite to actually transfer onto the block. So after I covered the entire thing, I'm gonna have that nice and dark, and I'm gonna take my block, and I'm gonna place it directly on top of the design. I'm going to make sure every little details covered, and I'm gonna have my metal spoon over here ready to go grab the whole paper, hold it in place, flipped the block and the paper over together. From there, I'm going to take my metal spoon. Still holding this in place on gonna actually burn itch this design and I'm going to give it a good push and make sure I'm getting this entire thing. Entire design transferred onto the block and you can kind of pick as you go. Kind of See it. Make sure it's transferring and maybe light. That's okay. It doesn't need to be perfect. It's just a guideline. So I'm gonna go ahead and go through this direction, and when you're done, you could just peel off the paper. So from there you're gonna have something that looks like this. This is your block that is ready to go, ready to carve. You can. Actually. If it's too light, you can take your pencil and direct, like directly work on to the rubber as long as you make sure not to dent the rubber. That's totally fun. But you want to make sure have a nice dark line because when you start carving, you may rub the design away, and if it's really complicated, you're gonna lose, lose your place and where you are. 5. Carving your Monogram: So if you open up your blades, you just twist off this little red top right here and you can pour your blades out. There should be about five blades inside. There's a number 1235 and six. Um, the blades are actually numbered on the back, so you can check that up. Here we have the number. Number five. This is the largest gouge. I will generally start from the largest gouge and go to the smallest one. And I always work from the outside of the block towards the inside of the book. So the number five I would use for areas that are larger, so use them for, like, the outside edges And, like, maybe this Maybe that moving on, I would use the number three, which is just a little bit smaller than the five. Um, To get in a little toe, get in some of these other smaller areas. The number two is going to be your big one. You're gonna want to use that right around the edges to get right up on those lines and get a really sharp relief and then moving on to the little small guy. This is a number one seed, your smallest V and the smallest V is great for getting into that little detail. Work these little tiny little pieces in the pedals and in the leaves. And then lastly, we have our number six, or number six is used vertically, usually to cut off edges or to get into these 90 degree angles. So to put the blade into the handle, you're going to take the rounded edge of the blade and you're going to just slide it right in around that circle in the center of your handle. Then you just go ahead and twist it. Tighten it and you're good to go. So when you're carving, you always want to go horizontally, and you want to make sure you keep these two tips above the rubber at all times. If you go down like this, what's gonna happen is you're going to go like you're gonna go under the rubber. You can see the little tips or creating some pressure, and you're gonna end up ripping it, and it's gonna rip into your designs. You always want to stay. Keep those two little tips above when you come to the end of where you want except carving . You can just pop it up like this and it'll cut off. So now that we have are bought completely carved, all ready for paint, I'm going to show you how to put the paint on the plexiglass and get a nice, smooth finish. 6. Paint and Printing!: So first I'm going to open my paints and I'm gonna take my paintbrush and I'm going to get a little scoop of paint on to my plexi glass. You don't need a ton. Just going to use a little bit to get started. Less is more in the situation. Next, I'm going to take my Breyer. I'm going to start at the top and I'm gonna roll the paint down onto the plexi glass lifting. Apposite Go. Kind of spreading it out, thinning it out. The idea is to get my whole roller covered and get an even consistency. Um, and a little bit of texture. You don't wanna have too much paint, and you'll know you'll have too much pain if you have long, long, big streaks here and you have pain around the edges. So from there I'm going to take my my Breyer, and I'm gonna take my block laid on the table. I'm actually going to roll it onto the block from there. That's about all you need. You don't need to do it a 1,000,000 times. That's perfectly fine. Next, I'm just going to take a look at my block and I'm going to see if there's anything that I don't like or things that I want to change, things that maybe be showing here that I don't want. If there is something I can go back with my blade on, I can take ticket out and remove it so it won't actually show up on the paper. Now I'm gonna test it onto the paper and I'm going to see how it looks. I'm just gonna flip it over. Don't know carefully hold it here so it doesn't smear. This is not the ideal way to do it. That's why we use this method for printing on fabric because it can slip on the paper. But just for testing purposes, we're going to do this. So then I'm gonna hold this paper and I'm gonna slowly pill it up so I can see that that looks pretty good. And I'm pretty happy with it. So I'm just going to re ink it one more time. That's still a good amount of pain. Roll it one more time till it's completely covered, and now I'm going to print it onto the fabric. When you're printing on the fabric, you can push much harder just make sure you get the whole thing, so it's even and it won't slide on the fabric, which is really nice the next you're just gonna light it up, then you're gonna have your final print. 7. Setting: So once you have your finished project, you're gonna want to wait till the ink is completely dry and no longer tacky. Then you can go ahead and heat said it so it doesn't wash out of your fabric. All you're gonna have to do is you're just getting you that a towel or an ironing board and iron. You're going to take your ink your ain't project and you're gonna put it Inc side down onto the fabric and you're gonna take your iron. Uh, this was on linen fabric, So I'm gonna put on linen setting. And then from there, I just wait, I turn off the steam right here, and then I'm gonna just hit it for about a minute, continuously moving the iron until one minute is up. And then after that, you can feel free to just throw it in the wash. It's on a tote bag or something. You can do it from the inside of the tote bag, and then you can turn it inside out and throw it in the machine on, like, delicate cycle or something. The more gentle with that you are, the longer the fat or the inquiry Last 8. Final Thoughts: that's gonna be it's completely done. Um, if you guys come up with your own monogram, I would love to see it post pictures in the gallery. Um, I can offer feedback and, you know, give you tips. There's lots, lots of questions. As far as like, glades and pain and things like that. I can totally help you with that. Um but I hope you had a good time, A senior design and see you next time.