Porcelain Painting: Learn How to Paint Your Own Zodiac Sign Coffee Mug | Windy Iris | Skillshare

Porcelain Painting: Learn How to Paint Your Own Zodiac Sign Coffee Mug

Windy Iris, Designer and Crafter

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11 Lessons (38m)
    • 1. Welcome

    • 2. Supplies

    • 3. Picking Three Colours

    • 4. Cleaning the Porcelain

    • 5. Practice Project

    • 6. Design

    • 7. Prep

    • 8. Main Assignment

    • 9. Fixing Mistakes

    • 10. Finishing

    • 11. Final Thoughts


About This Class


Have fun experimenting and learning to use porcelain paints and create your own custom zodiac sign coffee (or tea) mug. 

In this class I’m going to be showing you how to paint with paints specifically designed for use on porcelain and how to create your own personal zodiac sign coffee mug, using a color blocking technique. This class is suitable for complete beginners, as well as those of you how may have some experience but are looking for some new ideas. I know that ceramic painting can be daunting and it’s not the easiest surface to work on but during the course of this class I really hope to show you how fun and rewarding this sort of creative project is and once you’ve broken the process down into small steps its really very simple as well. You can take what you learn in this class to endlessly customise and decorate your china.

What You Will Learn


I’ll be walking you through every step of the process and you'll learn about: 

  • How to transfer a design to the porcelain
  • Working with a limited color palette and picking three colors for your own project
  • How to prepare your ceramic surface ready for painting
  • Applying the paints and painting using a color blocking technique
  • Tips and tricks for working with porcelain paints
  • Fixing mistakes and finishing the project to make the paints permanent        

I’ve also included a printable sheet with the twelve zodiac star signs, designs that I’ve created exclusively for this class and ones you can use to get started. Your final assignment for this class will be to paint a zodiac design onto your own coffee mug. Here are a couple of examples of class projects:





Materials You Will Need


Here's a general list of supplies you'll need to complete this class's assignment and more detail will be gone into in the lessons. I am aware that for many of you this may be your first time using and buying ceramic paints so I’ve designed this class’s project around just using three colours, so that you don’t need to buy a whole heap of different paints to get started. 

  • Print Out of The Zodiac Designs Sheet 
  • Porcelain Paints - three different colors of your choice
  • Plain White Coffee Mug + Small Plate or Saucer for the Practice Project
  • Paint Brushes 
  • Paper Towel 
  • Masking Tape
  • Rubbing Alcohol 
  • Cotton Buds and a Toothpick
  • Graphite Pencil Paper and Colored Pencils

You'll also need to use your oven to finish off the project. 

I hope you’ll join me for this class and discover how fun ceramic painting is. If you have any questions or comments then feel free to reach out and let me know, I’m here to help and make sure you share your project photos with the rest of the class. I can’t wait to see what you create and now let’s get started.



1. Welcome: ceramics is one of my favorite surfaces to work on, and I've been creating and selling hand painted ceramic pieces for several years now in this class, I'm going to be showing you how to paint with paints specifically designed for use on porcelain on how to create your own personal Zodiac Sign Coffee mug. I'll be teach you how to create seamless blocks of color with the paint, with little or ideally, no brushstrokes physical, this closest suitable for complete beginners as well as for those of you who may have had some experience but are looking for some new ideas. I know that ceramic painting can be daunting, and it's definitely not the easiest surface toe work on. But during the course this class, I really hope to show you how fun and rewarding this sort of creative project is on. Once you've broken the process down into small steps, it's really very simple, a swell. You can take what you learn in this class to endlessly customize and decorate your china. I am aware that for many of you, this may be your first time using and buying ceramic paints, so I've designed this classes project around just using 3 to 4 colors, so you don't need to buy a whole heap of different paints to get started. I'll be walking you through every step of the process through the materials. You'll need the designing process picking colors, how to prep your ceramic surface, how to transfer your sketch to the to the ceramic hell to apply the paints, how to finish the project to make the paints permanent on house a fixed, some common mistakes. I've also included a printable sheet of the 12 Zodiac star signs on these air designed that I've created exclusively for this class, and you can use him to get started. There is a small practice project included in this class to help you get comfortable with using the pains, but your final assignment will be to paint a Zodiac design onto your own coffee mug and post pictures of your creations to the Project Gallery on the class page. I hope you'll join me for this skill share class and discover how fun ceramic painting is. If you have any questions or comments and feel free to reach out and let me know I am here to help and make sure you share your project photos with the rest of the class. I can't wait to see what you create and now let's get started. 2. Supplies: first supply are going to need for this class are the porcelain paints, and you do need to use paints that state that they are specially designed for use on porcelain. This first section talking about the paints may seem a little long, but bear with me. It's all important stuff, so the paints that I use are porcelain. 1 50 by PPL P. BeOS of French company but the paints a pretty widely available all over the world. Amazon is a good place to start looking for them online, but many craft and art shops stock these paints a swell. While I would definitely recommend this brand and lay on my personal preferred paints. The techniques time teaching in this class will work with any brand of porcelain paint, so you can use whatever brand you have on hand or that you can get locally. But I will say again that the paint's must be formulated to work on porcelain. Over the years, I've often had people ask me if they can substitute in, use normal acrylics or markers or other types of paints. Andi. I always recommend not to do that. It's not that I don't think you can't create beautiful pieces with those supplies, but most paints that are not formulated toe work on China are not permanent on they will rub off or wash off after a while on. I really think that even if you're an absolute beginner, your work deserves to last a long as possible. I think if you're going to sit down and put time and effort into creating something, then I would feel so sad if it rubbed off a week later, the P B O paints a permanent one fixed so you can wash the China and use it there. Also water based there not to odorous so they don't smell very much on. Do you really need water to wash your brushes? As opposed to some paints, which require white spirit Onda. There is a wide selection off glossy colors. This is another reason why I recommend porcelain painters opposed to a critics with porcelain paints. You get a much nicer glazed look to the China when you're finished painting. When you go shopping for your paint, you may find you have a slightly bewildering away of colors in front of you on that Brazil Aries. So products like Aguta, which is a raised relief out liner in a tube. There were thinners to thin the paints. There were several different mediums as well frosted glossies and so on to keeps things simple. I don't use any of thes for this class, the only axillary to go with the P B o paints that you may want to look at getting is the glossy medium on. This is usedto lighting colors without making the paint more fluid, and it's definitely a really useful extra. If you especially if you plan on mixing colors together, then I would recommend picking up the glossy medium as well. One other thing you might notice when buying the paints is that some of the tones are marked transparent, summer semi transparent and some are opaque. There's a color chart that you can download from the PBIA website, which lists all the colors and their transparency levels. However, when you're beginning, I think it's best not to worry too much about this and just buy based on which colors you like. As you use the paint, you begin to see the different transparency is at work, and as you build up your collection, you can pick which look you prefer. If you picked up a paint during the course of this class that's transparent on do you really don't like the effect and you want to fix it. Then you can mix a tiny bit of white for the porcelain 1 50 range. That's ivory number 43 into the color, and that will make it more opaque as well as lightning it if you picked up a color that's too bold or dark than mixing some glossy medium into it or light in it, but not make it more opaque like mixing in the whitewood. In other words, the color will still be transparent but lighter in tone. All this information may be a little overwhelming, and that's why I say Don't worry too much about it all. However, it is useful to know a little bit about these aspects anyway. It will help you build up your skills and feel more confident using and buying the pains on . One last point to mention is that most porcelain paints are not officially classified as food safe. You can still paint with them on China that you're planning to use daily. Just avoid putting paint where it may come into contact with food or liquid. So with a mug, it's simple. You don't paint me inside, and you leave a small gap around the top of the mark, where your lips will touch the surface when you drink with bowls or egg cups again, it's simple only painting outside of the bowl on with plates. I tend to just paint around the edge where the food doesn't sit. This is not to put you off using porcelain pains in any way again. It's just useful to know, especially if you branch out to create your own designs. Okay, so they're the paints. As I said, you'll need three colors for this class, and I'll go into some tips on how you can pick your colors in the next lesson. The next supply is a coffee mug on any white coffee mug. Will do any white porcelain in any shape or size will work perfectly for this class. Plain white coffee mugs are fairly inexpensive and easy to find. You can go into a home to call shop or anywhere where they sell household goods. Or you could go into a thrift shop or a charity shop on up cycle, Some vintage China. You. You may even have some old white China mugs sitting in your covered. The options are endless. For this class, you'll need a coffee or tea mug for your final assignment on a small white plate or saucer for the practice project. Next, your needs and paintbrushes. I'm using fairly inexpensive ones. You'll definitely need a very fine detail brush. I tend to just use one brush. When I'm painting on, I find a small detail. Brush works really well, but having a couple of brushes in varying sizes can be helpful, especially if you're covering knowledge in areas. I tend to buy acrylic painting brushes, but really any type of brush will work fine. You'll also need water to wash your brushes, some kitchen paper or on old rag, some masking tape, a couple of cotton buds, toothpicks and rubbing alcohol. Lastly, your need to print out the sheet of Zodiac designs onto normal printer paper, and you'll need a graphite pencil on a couple of colored pencils as well. If you prefer to work on your own design than you can skip, printing out the worksheet and just grab some plain paper and a pencil, so there were all the supplies you need. This lesson also includes a handy print out sheet for quick reference of all of these materials on this sheet ca NBI accessed and downloaded on the class page. 3. Picking Three Colours: picking colors is my favorite part of the whole process, but it can also be the most nerve racking, as I can often be afraid of picking the wrong colors or ending up with ones that look bad or money together. However, the missing good news when you're only working with three colors, it's very, very hard to end up with disaster because from my experience, color combinations can often surprise you. And sometimes the strangest combos will work. They just end up working a couple of tips. I have to help you pick three colors. It's to first and foremost. Go with your instinct. Start off of one color, choose your favorite shade or even pick up a paint bottle that you just like the name off. Just start with one. Then next look for a clashing color, one that is very different but feels nice with the first and then the last color of the trio can be one that suits both of the 1st 2 so one that can tire them both together For the for the third color off trio like this, I often use a silver, a brown and yellow or gold. I always pick colors very much on instinct. I don't use a color wheel, but if you have one and feel that it would be helpful, then go ahead and use it. Another tip I have would be to make sure that the colors are not too similar. So three blues would probably not end up being a striking always eye catching as pink, blue and silver might be Andi. Because of this project and because of the color blocking style that we're doing, you really want the colors to be striking and you need them to clash and be bold. I know that if you're in the shop and you find a shelf full of different colors, it can be really difficult to pick three on, especially to feel confident in your choices. But I say trust your instincts, trust your instincts and start with your favorite color on build. From there, I found that any three comers as long as then all the same shade will work well in with this sort of design project. I've put together a reference sheet with some fun color combinations. If you prefer just to look at that and pick one of the combos to get started with. That way, you can kick start your color collection and not worry about which to pick as you're starting off. Once you picture colors and got them home, it's often a good idea to paint a little bit of the color on top off the white. What a lit. Because the labels, especially for the P B. A brand and not always completely accurate. And so if you have a little bit of paint on the lead, you can see exactly what the color will look like on the porcelain. 4. Cleaning the Porcelain: Now it's time to have a painting. The first thing to do is to prep the porcelain surfaces that you're going to be working on . All you need to do is to take the rubbing alcohol, place a little bit on some kitchen paper and then love down the entire surfaces that you want to paint. You're doing this to get rid of any grease. The porcelain should be clean and washed, but our hands contain natural. Greece is on in order for the paints to properly stick to the surface and not to rub off, the surface needs to be Greece. Three is possible. When you're painting, you often have to hold the object and turn it around and so on. So I like to keep the alcohol in the kitchen paper near me so I can clean one section at a time or wipe any areas where my fingers have been. When it comes to the mark, I do one extra thing, and that's the place. A ring of masking tape around the rim of the mark. The reason for this is just to act as a guide, and you don't want to put paint where your mouth is going to repeatedly touch China. So in order to remember to leave that gap at the top of the mug, I tape it up for these mugs are used the handle off the mark as a guide and placed the masking tape down to the point where the handle met the market. The top. It will depend on what size your mug is and where the handle comes to, but I say tape about a centimeter or sent me 2.5, depending on the size of the mug. 5. Practice Project: Now we're going to work on the practice project. This assignment. It's really designed just to help you get used to the porcelain paints to get used to the feel and the thickness of the paints. And to help take away any anxiety you may feel about applying the paint's to the porcelain , especially if this is your first time working on this surface. It's also good practice for holding your hands steady as that's important to get smooth lines. Let's start with the three chosen colors on the prepped plate or saucer. I'm using green, yellow and blue for my project. What you're going to do is to pick a simple shape, a circle or a triangle rectangle square, some small lines. Whatever you feel most comfortable replicating you can do. Deal a few out on a piece of scrap paper to get the feel of which one you like, drawing the most. Then pick one of the colors and started the edge of the saucer. So I'm starting out by holding the sources in my left hand on painting of my right. I find it helpful to lean the source of up against my hand and have it half resting on the table. I just find I get a better grip on it that way, but you can hold your plate or source of in whatever way it works best for you. So I find that when I'm painting Freehand like this, it's best to make a little outline of the shape first and then go back in and start to fill in the color. So the ideal aim here is to make small blocks of color with no brushstrokes visible. We've no lines or gaps. You just want pure blocks off glossy color. Quite easy to achieve this effect with these paints because even though they're quite thick , they do spread a little when they put down. So one of the things to bear in mind is your painting is gravity because thes paint do spread. So, for instance, with this saucer on these little triangles that I'm painting while the saucer is tilted downwards. This also actually has a a ring or a sort of a raised platform that curves upwards, so I have to make sure that I'm painting the triangles on. I'm putting my first load of paint at the top of that raised rim. I hope this is making sense. You should be able to see quite clearly what I'm doing on film, So I take my brush. I loaded up with a bit of paint on. I place it at the top. Most end off the triangle, the highest point of each of the triangle. And then I spread the paint very gently downwards, using little dabbing motions. It's also important not to overload your brush. As you can see as I'm painting each triangle, I'm going back to the paint lead. Multiple times I find it's much better just to take a little bit of the time. Dab it on, let it spread a bit, get a little bit more, and that way you minimalize the risk off, putting too much paint onto the surface and having a clumps or drips in the end. I'm just going to alternate the colors all the way round, starting with the blue, then the green and the yellow, then the blue green, yellow again and so on, all the way around the source until I get to the end. Now, the aim of this exercise is that by the time you've painted the same shapes over and over again, round a room of a small plate. By the time you get to the end, you've gotten quite used to using the paint you've gotten used to being able to. You'll be able to judge more clearly how much paint to put down on another reason why it's good to do this project before going into doing the mug. And the more complicated design is that these little symbols are much more easy to rub out or to clean up. If you make a mistake or you end up with a big mess and you put too much paint on your brush, it's much easier to clean up these little symbols to actually trying to fix it when you're working on your transfer design, because you really don't want to start cleaning too much with that, otherwise you'll end up messing up before the graphite. I'm putting down enough paint just to cover the surface to finish for trying up, up on. I often find that as I'm dabbing the paint on. If there are tiny little gaps between the dabs and the spots of paint, the paint will spread a bit by itself, not a lot, but enough so that it will create this pure block of color really easily. It does take a few tries to get used to this paint and to get the amount of paint right on to just to get very comfortable using it. So don't worry. If you don't get it right away or you end up with too much paint, just wipe it off and start again on really use this little source or little plate to practice Andi to get very comfortable with the paint Anyway, By the time you've finished your plate and you've replicated your shapes all the way around , you'll end up feeling hopefully a lot more confident using the paints on. You'll also have a cute matching plate to go with your mark. 6. Design: this class comes with a sheet of pre designed elements on Did you can pick which Zodiac star sign you want to use. However, if you prefer to draw your own elements, then I'll briefly run through a few things that you might find helpful on. These are things that I bear in mind when designing motives for painting. I like to start out in my sketchbook or on graph paper. This helps to make my objects more or less symmetrical. I try to think of the motifs as if they were stickers so bold and fairly simple. Shapes contained shapes as well, so not too many little struggling lines or edges that are unfinished. I also try to think about the coloring technique I'm going to use in this case. It's a color blocking technique, and importantly, there are no outlines. So in order for my motive to still be recognizable even when filled in with different colors, it needs to be clear and bold. Another way of thinking about it is to think about a silhouette drawing. So forget about any inside details and start off as you would with a silhouette of something, focus on creating a bold outline. Once the outline is down on paper, then you can separate the shape into color blocks. When I start blocking off the design, I try to use a mix of randomly place blocks as well, a symmetrical ones on ones that indicate where the details are or even where it shadows. Maybe depending on how complicated you want to make it. When you're starting off with this technique on starting off designing your own Moti's, I think it's best to start with quite simple shapes. So I was drawing a little coffee mug. A doughnut. You can draw things that you're very familiar with. Simple animal shapes. It's just very much easier if you start with smaller Andi more compact shapes. One other thing to bear in mind when designing is that you don't want to place paint on areas off the porcelain that will come into contact with food or liquid. So you may want to take a couple of measurements off your mug or your porcelain surface to start with. And just to make sure that your design will fit within, the area is supposed to fit on. Also bear in mind that when you're designing your motive. You need to design it life size because you're going to be transferring that design onto the mark. So the size that you draw it at will be the size that it is on the mark. Once your design is finished, then you'll need to outline it with a black pen. It doesn't have to be black, but black is easiest to see. When you're transferring, basically get your own drawing to the same point that the printed out Zodiac designs that when you're ready, we can move on to transferring the design onto the mark. 7. Prep: Now it's time to transfer the design onto the mug. So if you're using the Zodiac signs sheet, cut up a sign you want and make sure to leave a small white board award way around. If you've drawn your own motif, then do the same. Then take a small piece of cardboard. Anything will do here an edge of a cereal box and old Amazon parcel anything that you have lying around. You just want to have something to lean on so that you don't harm your desk or your table. As you're tracing, place the design face down in the cardboard and take the graphite pencil and traced the lines. If you're using normal printer paper than you should just be able to see through the paper and dark lines underneath. If you're having trouble seeing the lines, then you can hold the design up to a window and trace it that way. Once the design is traced onto the back, then from the paper over and place it onto your mark on, attach it using some small pieces of masking tape. Try not to press down or rub the paper against the surface of the mug because you don't want to smear the graphite at this stage. Once in place, use your pencil to trace the lines on the front of the design. Remember to press down hard here. You don't want to break your pencil, but you want to press down nice and firmly, and you can go back over the line several times to help with the transfer. When done, carefully take off the paper. And, like magic, he should have a faint transfer off the design on the mug. There may be little breaks in the lines and spots where the graphite didn't rub off, but that's perfectly all right. Do you just need to roughly be able to see where to paint? You also don't want too much graphite on the surface, as it doesn't mix well of all the colors. Andi. That's why we carefully traced the lines on the back of the design as opposed to smiling a graphite stick all over the surface. If you did cover the entire back with graphite and then traced it, you'd get much better lines. But doing it that way leads lots of smeared graphite on the surface, and we won't that surfaces clean as possible. Once that steps complete, lay the paper design back onto the cardboard and grabbed three colored pencils, ones that match more or less the paints that you're using. Start by placing one color in the center of the design. This will help with an anchor point and then add the other colors around it. Try to keep two things in mind as you go first. Try not to place the same colors next to each other. This would be unavoidable at times, but broadly, try and keep the color separate. Second evenly. Distribute the colors when placing out the colors, you want to strike a balance between the different shades on. Make sure that each color is well represented in each section of design. You don't want one color to show up on one side and not on the other. So that's transferring the design. And now we just cover a couple of tips for preparing the paint's. If you're mixing colors than bear in mind that the paint's dry quite quickly, so I would not mix any color ahead of time on. Don't mix too much anyone. Time. It's best just to makes a little bit and use it up, especially in the summer. The paint can dry up before you finished using it. You want to avoid making to any bubbles in the paint, so mixing the colors of a tiff pic could help to minimalize the air going into the paint. If you're using paint straight out of the bottle than what I do is turn the bottle upside down for about five seconds or so, then turn it upright again. You don't want to shake the paint bottle as that can cause air bubbles. Turning the bottle upside down causes the paint of flow into that lit. It mixes it on. That way. When you open the bottle, you can work straight out of the little puddle of paint that's in the lit. That's all the prep, and now we can get started on the projects. This may seem like a lot to do before you even start painting, but being organized and prepared really does help normalize mistakes on it helps to make the whole painting process much more easy. Going and relaxing 8. Main Assignment : Now we're going to finally work on the main assignment for this class on paint a Zodiac star sign design onto the coffee or tea mug. Basically, we're going to do the same process as we did in the practice project on your going to be using all the same skills that you learned in the previous lesson in this one. So keep in mind gravity. When you're painting, don't overload your brush. Spread the paint in the downward direction with little stabbing motions. You know everything that you were practicing on your practice project. You can now bring it to play and utilize. On the final class assignment, I'm painting Tourist the Bull when I'm eating the same thing three colors that I used on my plate. I find that the ceramic painting is a very relaxing process. It's nice to put on some music and to just chill out for a bit on. Spend some nice time painting on If you've done all your prep work, so you've done your sketch. You've cleaned the surface and everything. It's very relaxing because there's no decisions for you to make, especially with the colors. And this is why I think It's very important to color your sketch before you even begin painting, because you can just sit down and relax and paint. There's there's nothing for you to think about. All you have to do is, you know, keep in mind not to overload your brush and accept. I find that after a while you're it becomes muscle memory, almost so you don't even really have to think too much about even the painting because you just get used to doing it and you get used to. I'm being getting the right amount on your brush, and you could I just find the whole process so relaxing, So I'm liking one color at a time here on day, I took the yellow first blocked in all the yellow pieces that I took the green, and then the blue on just used one color at a time. I find this is very useful, especially when you're mixing mixing colors because that way you can mix one color on, then painted all in, and then mix another mixture next one so you don't end up wasting colors if they dry out or you mix too much at one time, and I really like seeing the peace come together this way. You, of course, complaint however you wanted. You prefer to just work on one section at a time, Andi, to use all three colors and simultaneously. Then go ahead. I just rather like working this way. So, as I said, you're using the same basic techniques as we talked about in the last lesson. The only difference with this project. It are the fact that there are gray lines on the porcelain now. Most of the time, those gray lines are not going to cause you any problems because the paint will go over the gray lines and cover them up completely. On This is true for pretty much all the colors except the one I'm using here today. Now this yellow is a transparent color, and it's very light on. The transparent colors are the ones that you may have more of an issue with, or at least they're the ones that are more likely to show the gray lines underneath. On this, yellow is the lightest and most transparent color I have, so, of course you can see the gray lines underneath it. But in order to get rid of those gray lines. What I ended up doing was to make sure that the darker paints covered them. So if there's a yellow section that's right up against the blue section, I just push that brute blew a little bit forward and paint over the gray dividing lines on a loss sites. On that way you still have your color blocks, but the gray lines are covered up now around the edge of the yellow blocks. It is a bit more difficult because there's no paint. There's no there are no darker colors up against them. So it's just the gray line, the yellow and the porcelain. Andi in order to Seoul, that particular problem. One thing that you can do is after the painters or dry. You can take a cotton bud and some water, not rubbing alcohol, just water on. You can just sort of about wipe around the edge off your design to get rid of any gray lines that there may be that is sticking out on this will get rid of a few of them. But in the end, I think if you're using a very light, transparent color, there'll be a few that you can't get rid off. I found that once all the colors in you really don't notice them on. And it's just something that is part of using the trans this particular transfer method, along with possibly seeing the gray lines through your paint. Another thing you want to just keep an eye out for is smudging. It's very easy to smudge the graphite as you move toe work in another area of the design, so you may stretch up, stretch your hand up over the design to paint a particular corner, or, in this case, you know, to paint the horns or something on you. Want to make sure that you don't accidentally lean your hand on the mark or to rub it against the graphite because you really don't want to muck up your design. So I find that I have to hold my hand in a sort of arch over the design that where you don't run the risk of smudging. So once the book was finished, I decided to move on to decorating the handle. I'm going to replicate the pattern that I painted on the plate in the practice project on the hand off the mark on that way, it really ties the mug on both e plate together. So you get a really cute matching set in the end on I'm just going to paint the same triangles, alternating the three different colors exactly like I did on the plate on you can go ahead and do circles or squares or whatever you did on your practice project. Replicate those shapes and the colors on the handle off the month. Once the paint is dry, you can peel off the masking tape. Andi, where you have your colorful, cute Zodiac star sign coffee mug. 9. Fixing Mistakes: what's painting. You may come across a couple of issues you may want to fix. The first is when you make a mistake with your paintbrush and flick the brush in the wrong direction and make a mark you don't want. Thes marks can be hard to clean because you don't want to touch the rest of the design. So taking a piece of kitchen paper or on old rag is normally not a good idea. So I take a cotton bud poor, tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on the end on news that carefully clean off the offending mark . Sometimes I don't notice these mistakes until the paint is all dry, and then I use the same method with the cotton bud. Andi. Use my fingernail to scrape off the paint after the alcohol has loosened a bit. Another common problem. You may have our bubbles in your finished paint. We talked a bit earlier about how to avoid bubbles by not shaking the paint bottle and so on. But no matter how careful you are, bubbles will sometimes appear in your painted color blocks. You need to deal with both bubbles right away and use a toothpick, a pin is often good as well to pop the little troubles now. I don't go too crazy with bubble popping because they were always going to be a couple of tiny ones that escaped me. But I do try to get any big ones. Once the paint is dry, they're there to stay, so you need to keep an eye out for them as you're painting and deal with them when they happen. One last thing you may notice with your finished piece is that the dried paint has clumped in areas, so some places a darker than others where the paint has pulled into one corner, like in the example here. This car lumping or pooling tends to come about because you've put too much paint on the porcelain and it's followed. Gravity on, clumped down at the bottom of the shape, spoke about how to avoid this. In other lessons on Dhere is what it looks like when the paint is dried. It really doesn't look too bad if you end up with paint like this, and no one will know it's a mistake, but it can be avoided by not overloading your brush on by paying attention to gravity. Andi, when you're painting a shape, place your first strokes at the top of the shape and then just spread the paint downwards. 10. Finishing: onto finally finishing your mug and plate. In order to make the mark watchable on the paint permanent, you're going to need to heat set the China. The exact directions will vary on the paint brand you're using, but for the P B o porcelain 1 50 you need to bake the mind in the domestic oven. You need to first leave the porcelain 24 hours so that the paint is thoroughly dry on. Then it's a good idea to make one final check around the mug, including looking at the base of the object as well, because often that gets paint on it on, clean up any paint smears or drops that you find with a cotton buds and smoking alcohol. Then you place the mark on enough entree. I like Teoh. Put a sheet of baking parchment underneath and then put the oven tray into a cold oven. Close the door on turn the temperature up to 150 C or 300 Fahrenheit on set a time of 35 minutes. Always put the china into a cold oven so that it heats up as the oven does. After 35 minutes, Turn off the other. Open the door and leave the mark to cool down within the oven. And it's a good idea to air out your ovens to keep the door open, as the paint can leave a small smell behind. But after simmering, this smell will go away on once called, the mug is finished, washable, usable, and it will last for a long time to come. 11. Final Thoughts: congratulations on completing this class and thank you for coming along on watching these lessons. I very much hope you enjoyed the journey. It probably took you a while this first time to go through the steps. I've outlined all the preparation on the painting, but if you continue and paint several more marks, you'll find really quickly that the whole process speeds up and things could become second nature in no time. I've tried to break down every step and section so that it's easy to digest and easy to get to grips with. If you have any further questions or have any comments, then make sure you reach out and ask me over on the class page. I'm more than happy to help. I know how frustrating it can be, learning something new and trying to get to grips of a new medium. So please reach out if you feel like it. Also, don't forget to post pictures off your final assignment and the other projects to the Project Gallery on the class page and share your creations with the other students. Once again. Thank you for joining me today. Andi, My final thought for this class is perhaps a belated word of warning. Once you stop painting of China, it can easily become obsession aan den. No white porcelain will be safe from your paintbrush. You're constantly be finding things that need an extra little something an extra colorful design, and soon all your white China will be in peril of being painted. For me, that's the best thing about ceramic painting. You can add that extra something special to the humblest objects that we use every day. You can add something that's very unique and personal to you and at the same time have a fun and relaxing time paint.