Photo Editing for Mac Users with Mac Photos | Phil Ebiner | Skillshare

Photo Editing for Mac Users with Mac Photos

Phil Ebiner, Video | Photo | Design

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52 Lessons (4h 3m)
    • 1. Enroll Now

      1:47
    • 2. Welcome to the Course

      1:58
    • 3. Import Photos from Your Computer

      2:44
    • 4. Import Photos from Camera Card

      2:32
    • 5. Import Photos from Phone with Cable

      1:34
    • 6. Import Photos with iCloud

      7:56
    • 7. Import Photos with My Photo Stream

      3:38
    • 8. Import Photos from Websites

      0:50
    • 9. Viewing Your Photos

      6:05
    • 10. Viewing Photos by People, Places, and More

      5:02
    • 11. Creating Albums, Smart Albums, and Albums by Photo Type

      6:29
    • 12. Easily Find Your Photos with Keywords + Favoriting Photos

      7:36
    • 13. Basic Editing and Auto-Enahncing

      6:45
    • 14. Use Filters to Automatically Make Your Photos Look Amazing

      2:53
    • 15. Crop and Rotate

      3:24
    • 16. Case Study: When to Crop and Rotate

      4:44
    • 17. Light / Exposure Adjustments

      5:40
    • 18. Color Adjustments

      3:18
    • 19. Black and White Adjustments

      3:39
    • 20. Retouching Photos and Red Eye Removal

      6:26
    • 21. White Balance Adjustments

      6:29
    • 22. Levels

      11:05
    • 23. Curves

      8:07
    • 24. Definition Adjustments

      2:02
    • 25. Selective Color Adjustments

      3:49
    • 26. Noise Reduction

      4:31
    • 27. Sharpening

      2:47
    • 28. Adding a Vignette

      3:15
    • 29. Editing a Live Photo

      3:41
    • 30. Save Photos as Files

      7:46
    • 31. Save Live Photos as GIFs or Still Images

      1:41
    • 32. Share Photos Online

      1:44
    • 33. Create a Slideshow

      10:50
    • 34. Printing Photos

      4:35
    • 35. Order Prints Right from your Mac

      3:09
    • 36. Create a Calendar

      5:57
    • 37. Create a Book

      5:09
    • 38. Create a Card

      2:39
    • 39. Editing a Portrait

      10:31
    • 40. Editing a Group Photo

      8:34
    • 41. Editing a Creative Landscape Photo

      7:17
    • 42. Editing a Night Photo

      8:08
    • 43. Editing a Cat Portrait

      5:16
    • 44. How to Find Photos in the Finder

      1:20
    • 45. Change Where Photos are Stored

      2:23
    • 46. Send Photos to Other Apps for Editing

      2:09
    • 47. View All Keyboard Shortcuts

      0:51
    • 48. Working with Video in Mac Photos

      5:38
    • 49. Viewing and Organizing Photos on Your Phone

      4:55
    • 50. Sharing Photos from Your Phone

      4:02
    • 51. Editing Photos on Your Phone

      6:20
    • 52. Thank You Video

      1:15

About This Class

You have a Mac computer, and you want to learn how to easily edit and organize your photos, right?

Perfect! Mac Photos is the free application that comes with all Mac computers (previously called iPhoto).

This course will teach you how to use all of the amazing features of Mac Photos, a truly powerful editing and organizing tool for all kinds of photographers.

What will you learn in this Mac Photos course?

  • Import photos from files or your camera
  • Organize photos so you can easily find them
  • Edit and adjust your photos to look amazing
  • Save and share your photos how you want
  • Use the Photos app on your iPhone

What kind of editing will you learn?

  • Auto-enhance feature
  • Rotate and crop
  • One-click filters
  • Advanced slider adjustments
  • Retouching and blemish removal
  • Red-eye removal
  • and more!

Who teaches this course?

Phil Ebiner is a Mac-user, photographer, best-selling Udemy instructor, and most importantly - he truly wants to help you with this course. No matter what your skill level is right now, you'll get the best support in this course.

Why should you enroll now?

This course will make learning fun and easy. All you need is your Apple computer and any version of the Photos app. We'll be teaching with version released in macOS High Sierra. But you can use pretty much any version because the process is very similar in each version. 

We also have a 30-day money back guarantee. So you can enroll today, and if for any reason you aren't enjoying the course, you can grab a refund.

We can't wait to see you in the course!

Thanks for your time, and we look forward to helping you learn Mac Photos.

Cheers,

Phil

Transcripts

1. Enroll Now: Do you have a Mac computer or device? And do you take photos If you answered yes to both of those questions, this is the perfect course for you. Photos is the free application that comes with all Mac computers, and it's the perfect way toe organized share and edit your photos. This course covers everything so you're completely comfortable using the entire application to import photos from your phone from your camera from a hard drive than to organize them in different ways. Things like viewing by face by location by tag or putting together your photos and custom groups. But photos isn't just for viewing. You have a complete suite of professional editing tools to make your photos look amazing. And not only will you learn the tools in this class, you'll learn a professional workflow to take a not so great photo and make it amazing. And lastly, this application isn't just for viewing and editing. It's perfect for sharing, so if you want to save your photos and share them online, if you want to put together a slideshow, or if you want to order things like Prince books or calendars right from this application, we're going to show you how to do it in this class. We've even added a complete bonus section on how to use the photos app on your iPhone. So many people defer to using expensive professional tools, but photos by Mac can do most of those things completely free. If you're ready to learn something new to have fun while doing so, then click that enroll button and I'll see you inside the course. 2. Welcome to the Course: Hey, Phil Ebba near here, and I'm so excited that you joined this Mac photos class. It's a really cool class because anyone with a Mac computer can dive right in and start organizing and editing their photos like a pro. So in this video, I just want to talk about what this course is all about, how you take it and how you can have the most success. In the next lesson, you can download all of the practice photos will be using in this class, and then we're going to dive right into Mac photos. You'll understand how to import photos into the program. You'll then learn about how to organize them and how to view your photos so you can find them as easy as possible. And then we have a big section on editing your photos, and they walk through all of the tools available in Mac photos that you can use to make your photos look amazing. And I follow that section up with a complete series of videos where we do an entire photo at it. Because in this class and in all of my classes, I'm not just telling you what the tools do. I don't just say, Oh yeah, this tool does this dry go up and down the slider? Click this button. I want you to understand how to use the tools like a professional photographer, so we'll walk their entire edit so you can see my entire process. And then after that, there's a few lessons, some more advanced tips and tricks, and any additional lessons that I add as Mac photos changes the way that you can have the most success with this class is to take action to practice while I teach you and to let me know how I could make this course even better if I go over something too quickly. If I miss something completely, or if you have any questions, just let me know. You can post questions to the course. Q. And A. You can send me a direct message, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible, hopefully with a new lesson or some update, so that everyone can benefit from your questions, too. So with that, I'm going to let you dive right into the course, and we'll see you in the next lesson. 3. Import Photos from Your Computer: let's dive into Mac photos and start importing photos. So if you open up Mac photos, you probably won't see all the photos like I do here. And this is because I've imported photos in the past. If you've downloaded the practice photos from the last lecture, you will have this folder of a lot of raw and JPEG images will be working on in this course to import, go up to file and then click import or press the keyboard shortcut shift Command I and using keyboard shortcuts is one of the best ways to improve your workflow as a video editor or just as a hobbyist. So once you do that, you can either select the folder or you could select individual photos. If you select the folder and then click review for import, it will bring up this new window where you can review the photos that you want to import. Now I'm going toe. Make this full screen just by dragging this over to the right so we can see all our photos more clearly. And so what I can do now is just click on individual photos that I want to use or I can import all of them. If I don't have any selected and I just click import all new photos, that's what will happen now. There are a couple other things that I want you to keep in mind to help with organization, and that's one of the key things. As a photographer and an editor, you want to be organized if you want to just import into your Mac Photos library, which is basically all of your photos, and you can organize them and view them in certain ways, which helps find specific photos by date and things like that. But it's better to keep them organize with albums. So if you click this import to and then the drop down for library, well, you can do is new album. Or you can choose one of your old albums like this Photo Walk, one that I've created, or the I Photo Events, which is one of the events like a date that you've imported in the past. I'm going to click new album, and I'm going to call this Mac Photos course thing, click OK, and then click import all new photos. Now all of our photos are imported and we can start to work with these in our class. If you want to learn how to import from a camera or directly from your smartphone, your iPhone via iCloud, I'll be showing how to do that in the next couple of lessons. Or you could just skip to the future lessons on organizing, viewing and then editing as we dive into editing these photos and learning the power of Mac photos. Thanks so much for watching. 4. Import Photos from Camera Card: in this lecture, you're going to learn how to import photos from your camera or from a memory card that you've taken out of your camera like an SD card. So I'm using my I, Mac and I've closed down Mac photos to show you what happens when I plug in my SD card to my computer. Now I'm putting it directly into my I Mac, if you don't have a slot, you can use a USB card reader. I just put in my SD card, which you can see it docked here and automatically. Mac photos has popped open, and that will happen automatically when you are just starting out with Mac photos and you put in any SD card. And I wanted to show you that because I want to show you how you can stop that from happening in case you get annoyed because some people like importing their photos onto their computer separately onto ah, hard dry, external hard drive and not into Mac photos. And that option right here, if you don't want it to automatically import, is with this little check box right here. So uncheck that open photos for this device and in the future. When you plug in that S D card, it won't automatically open Mac photos now, just like we saw before when we imported the photos in the last lecture. We have all the photos for review and what we can do and even some my videos. We can just select them and then choose import the selected ones or import all new items. And you also have this option delete items after import, which will delete the photos from your card, which is a neat, handy feature. But I prefer deleting photos from my card separately. You never know what's going to happen. You might want to, you know, import them later. Copy them somewhere else. I like formatting my cards separately via the camera and not through Mac photos. So if I select, let's just say these three typewriter shots and then choose import noticed that I've just imported to the library and not to a specific folder. What happens is our library opens, and if I scroll down, I see these three photos right here that I just imported. You could also see the past import that I did right here. And this is just one of the ways that Mac photos helps you organize your different imports by date and again in future lessons, we're gonna go over how you view and organize, and you can filter your photos. But in the next lecture, I want to show you how you import photos via iCloud, which is great if you want to import directly from your iPhone or other Apple device. 5. Import Photos from Phone with Cable: Here's how to import photos from your connected iPhone. So I'm using my iPhone. I'm connecting it to my computer via the USB cord, and that's typically the same as your charge records. So you gonna unplug it from the outlet part and then put it into your computer and you see here on the left that I have this iPhone device, and you also see that I have the E. O s digital SD card from a previous lecture about importing from the camera. If photos doesn't open automatically to import, what you can do is just open photos and then see what devices are connected. Then you can click on it, and it opens all the photos from that device. If you wanted to open automatically, just like the device and check this box up there and it will automatically open in the future. But now I can go through, and I can select all the photos that I've taken with my phone. So here, little winter adventure in Southern California and photos and then just import just like before, or you could select all of them. And the cool thing is that photos knows which ones are new items. Which ones? All right, And so all the ones that appear are new photos. You don't have to worry about duplicating any old photos. So pretty easy. Just toe import photos from a phone that's connected and depending on your WiFi signal and everything like that, it's probably a lot faster to do it this way if you have a lot of photos rather than doing it via iCloud or another method like that. 6. Import Photos with iCloud: in this lesson, I'm going to explain how you can access your photos taken on your phone anywhere from any apple device. When you're signed in with iCloud, I cloud is your account with Apple is your cloud storage. You get five gigabytes of storage with any apple account, and when you enable that and turn that on on any of your devices, you can access your photos on your Mac. If you go up to the photos menu and then click on Preferences, you'll see General and iCloud click on iCloud and then click on Continue. If you're not already signed in to your iCloud account, you might be so click on Continue if you aren't and then it's going to open up the System Preferences menu and then sign in with your apple i D. Which is your standard apple I D. That you use for iTunes for your phone, any apple device or you can click create apple I D and walk through the steps to creating your first apple I D. So I'm gonna go in and sign in. Once you sign in, it's going to ask you what you want to use iCloud for you can use it for finding your Mac if you lose it or it gets stolen or for things like your contacts and calendar. I'm gonna check these offer now and click next. Now you can customize what you use iCloud for now, this is the System preferences menu that popped up and you can go into your photos options here. Or let me just get out of here and you'll see back in our photos menu again. This is from photos into the preferences. Now we have these three different options for using our iCloud photo library right within the Mac photos menu. In another lesson in the section, I'm going to talk about my photo stream, which is sort of an older way of importing photos from your phone. But for the more preferred method, if you turn on the iCloud photo library, it's going to ask you if you want to download originals to this Mac or optimize max storage . No, I'm not clicking this yet, because if I click this, what's going to happen is it's going to ask me to upgrade my plan. Right now, I have the five gigabytes of free storage, but you'll see here that my photos library has 37.85 gigabytes of photos and videos that I've imported in the past. If you're brand new to this, you're not going to get this menu. It's going to allow you to use your current free plan. But since I have more photos on my computer than my free plan allows, it's going to tell me I need to upgrade to even use iCloud for my Mac device. This I'm act that I'm using right now because what it's wanting to do is sink all of the photos that I've ever imported and put them online for accessing anywhere with any other device. If you don't want to upgrade and you think you're gonna be taking a lot of photos and videos and you're going to pass your five gigabytes of free plan, then you don't need do this or you can choose a plan. But if you're just starting out, go ahead and check the iPhone Cloud Photo library and you'll see that you have two options . Download originals to Mac and optimize max storage with download originals to this Mac. That means that whenever you take a photo from your phone, it will automatically sync to your Mac computer and download the original file. If you choose optimized max storage, what will happen is you'll be able to see a compressed version of that photo from this Mac computer. But the original file will stay in the cloud and won't be downloaded if you're ah, photographer and you want to make sure that you have the original files, choose download originals to this Mac. But say you have another device, a laptop and iPad where you don't necessarily need the original file on that device. Choose optimized max storage. Now, since I can't show you how to do this on the computer because I'm not using that actual iCloud account for my I Mac, I'll show you how to do it on the phone here. I've brought up my phone, and if you go into your settings and then into your main account settings, then into iCloud now you have all your iCloud settings for your phone, so click on photos and you have those same three options. So my phone, which has less than five gigabytes of photos on it right now it will work. So if I check this on. It's going to verify that I have less than five gigabytes of memory used. And then Aiken choose the same optimize iPhone storage or download and keep originals. I'm just going to download and keep original so that I have the originals on my phone in case I want to import them to my computer a different way, say, via cable, which we show you in this section as well. And then what I'm going to do is just click back now. The cool thing is that I have access to these photos on any device that I'm signed in tow. iCloud. So if I did sign into iCloud on my computer, then those photos would automatically appear under my photos. Now, since I'm not signed in on this computer, what I can still do is view them via an Internet browser. So if I goto iCloud dot com and sign in with that same apple, I d. Now I see all of the iCloud data that I'm sharing from my iPhone. So if I click photos, it opens this iCloud sort of op view, and I can see all of the photos that are on my phone right now. The cool thing is I can actually manually import these photos into my Mac Photos computer folder, and that's a great way to do it. If you don't want to sign in to your iCloud account from your computer, it takes a couple extra steps, which includes selecting the photos that you want to download so you can select one. Or you can select multiple by command, clicking all the photos that you want to download, and then click this download button up here so download selected items. It's going to automatically open them in preview. But what you can do is open the full that the downloads folder. So command click that to open the downloads folder. Now if I go over to my photos account, I can import. I look by going up to the file import option and going to my downloads and reviewing for import. Or I can literally just drag and drop these photos into the iPhone photo library. So let me find one that I haven't imported yet. This one of the chair leg. It's a project I'm working on. I can just literally drag that into the photos icon in my dock and it's going to import into photos. So if I scroll down all the way to my latest import, you can see now that I have this photo imported. Now that's a roundabout way of doing it. But it's a work around if you don't want to pay for storage. So just to recap to use the iCloud feature to sync your photos on all of your devices, all you have to do is sign in to the iCloud library on all of your devices, using the same account here on your photos app on your computer and then here on your phone in the iCloud settings. If you don't sign into your iCloud photo library on all accounts, you can still access your photos via a Web browser by going toe iCloud dot com and signing in. And you can download these photos on any device manually. Now the easiest way is just to sign in and upgrade to paid account, so everything is synch automatically. In the next lesson, I'm going to show you how to use my photo stream, which is another way toe automatically import photos from your phone without using your iCloud storage 7. Import Photos with My Photo Stream: in this lesson. I want to show you how to use the photo stream option. So if you go up to your photos menu and then into preferences, you'll see that my photo stream check that on. Now, if you're using the iCloud photo library, that kind of overrides the need for using my photo stream because all of your photos are automatically sync anyways. But if you're not using the iCloud photo library on your computer like I'm not, you can use the my photo stream option toe automatically import photos from your phone onto your Mac Now on your phone, you're gonna want to do the same. So let me close out of those preferences, go back into the iCloud settings of my my phone. I'm gonna turn off iCloud photo library again because it's kind of redundant and then turn on my photo stream. Now, when I go back to my camera, let's take a new photo. So here, let's take a photo, take a photo. My sleeping pub Ashby. Okay, so I've taken that photo. Let me close out of the camera up. And when I opened up my photos on my phone, you'll see that I have this new photo stream album under photo. So under your albums, go on, scroll down to my photo stream. So here were a few tests that I did, And you'll also notice that in my Mac photos library under the main photos folder, I have this photo that was automatically imported. So again, if I go back to my camera, take a selfie. Now nothing happens until I turn off the camera because it waits until the cameras off until it sinks with my my photo stream. So let me turn off my camera. It appears in my photo stream album, and pretty shortly it should appear on my computer, which is pretty awesome. Now, once it's past 30 days or five taken over 1000 photos, I won't be able to see this particular photo in this my photo stream folder. But it's still gonna be on my phone so I can import it manually later and on my computer, since I've automatically imported it with the setting under preferences for my photo stream , it's going to be on my Mac computer. So this is another way that you can automatically import photos from your phone on to your computer without having to do it manually. There's something to be said about manually importing your photos just because you have more control than you don't waste a lot of space. It forces you to go through and select the photos that you actually want to import rather than automatically importing all of them. But for ease, both the I Cloud photo storage and the My photo stream options are there for you to make it easy. I'm going to include some supplemental links, and resource is at the end of this section to get more information about the my photo stream and iCloud set up because I know it can be a little fusing for people who are just starting out. If you have any questions, though, please feel free to let me know. At the end of the day, though, if you're having too much, many problems with iCloud and my photo stream, try importing via a folder via a cable with your phone. It will be a lot easier. Thanks so much for watching and we'll see you in another lesson 8. Import Photos from Websites: Here's another cool, quick tip that you can do with photos. If you are browsing online and you see a photo that you want to download and import into photos, what you can do is just click that photo. So I'm on Facebook right now, and if you aren't a fan of the video school online Facebook Page, I definitely encourage you to do so. But what you can literally do just click and drag and drop it into the photos icon in your doc. So if I drop it there, what's going to happen is it's going to import that file, and now you can see it gives me that note successfully imported, and it's here in our photo stream, which is just incredible. It's a quick way to work with photos and edit photos that you find online and, yeah, that's a just a quick pro tip toe. Help you out 9. Viewing Your Photos: Welcome to this brand new section of the Mac photos course. This section is all about organizing and viewing your photos. Mac photos has a ton of different ways for you to view your individual photos view groupings of photos, and it tries to make it as easy as possible for you to be able to find photos that you've taken. So I'm gonna walk through all of the different ways that you can do that with Mac photos over on the left hand side, under library, you can see the different options were going to be going over in this section. So you have your main photos library, which I'm in right now. And then you have things like memories people, which is face recognition places imports, then also albums, which is a great way to organize your own photos however you want. So, in this lesson, let's just start with the photos library and then we're gonna go over these four tabs at the top and how you view the individual photos and stuff like that. So you won't see all of these photos because thes air the photos in my library, but you will see all the photos that you've imported yourself specifically, the one in the folder for this class. And I wanted to show you something really cool. Ah, something that happened after I stopped recording yesterday when I was recording the lectures on how to import photos. These photos were added automatically because they're part of my photo stream. I didn't have to do this at all. Manually, it was just automatic using the my photo stream method. Anyways, at the top of photos, you have these four options for viewing your photos. If you click on photos, this is just a group of all of your photos. So you know, I can scroll back all the way to the top. And this is just all the photos not really organized that I've ever imported into photos and give you sort of a date as you scroll through. OG is 2017. If I scroll up, you know we're getting back to July, etcetera, etcetera. If I move over to moments, moments jumps to a collection of photos based off of time and location, and it's fairly specific. So if you're on vacation at a specific location, it might group a moment as a trip to the beach on one afternoon, and then even if you go somewhere else the next day or in that morning, it might be separated as a separate moment. So if I scroll down, here's my latest moment was just yesterday. Here's another moment from yesterday, but they're separated because this was in the evening. This was earlier in the day. If I scroll up, here's you know, Wednesday by date, August 26 I was 25th. He's heard when we were trying to look at dogs toe adopt. And so these air basically collections of photos based off of time and location. And it will work better if you have the geo tagging option on on your camera or your phone , which is available for most modern phones and cameras, where actually tags the location of the photo with where it was taken. So that's moments If we move over to collections, this is a broader grouping, so it tries to group again based off location. But instead of making individual moments for, say, an afternoon at the beach, maybe it will pick the entire weekend trip. So here we have this trip that we took up to San Francisco. This one is just sort of August the week of August 13th 26th. So this depends on how many photos you take, what you do, where you are. Sometimes it groups multiple things together. So this is just a little bit of an easier way to find individual photos. Uh, when you know that they were taken at a specific time rather than scrolling through the moments which it might take a little bit longer to scroll up. So here, if I want to get back to my Australia vacation up there, it is a little bit easier to find. Years is pretty self explanatory. It organizes by the year. But of course it's a little hard to find individual photos this way. But if you have a lot of photos and you've been using photos for a number of years, it's an easy way to go back in time. If you click within one of the years, what happens is it takes you to the collections, so I'd clicked on 2014. And then here are collections from 2014. If you want to zoom into its individual photo, no matter what you're on you can double click that photo. So if I double click this one, for example, it brings it into full screen. If I select a photo and then press the space bar, it will also bring it full screen. You can see. As I zoomed out, it took me to the moments tab and so say I want to bring up another one. Here I am eating fondue in Switzerland. I click that one, and then I press the space bar to bring it up full screen and then space bar again to drop it down. One other thing I want to show you is that if I bring it up to full screen and go up to the view option, you have a number of different options to bring up into your window. But one of the ones I like is this Show thumbnails. So if I do that, it brings the thumbnails up down here and now I can more easily scroll through the photos and find them rather than going back to the moments view and finding it here and then bringing it full screen. That way, you can zoom in on an individual photo as well up here we have this zoom slider or the fit slider, and if you zoom it in, you're able to move it around. So say I zoom in here, but I want to move up to the top of the mountain. I can just click and drag up here, like so, then the zoom back out. I can just scroll this down to see the whole photo, so that's kind of the basic process for looking at photos and finding photos under the photos tab in your library. So play around with that, make sure you're comfortable doing that. And then in the next lessons, I'm going to walk through these other ways that Mac photos curate your photos before diving into more of the organization and creating albums and tagging your images. 10. Viewing Photos by People, Places, and More: moving on down the left hand menu from library to memories. We get another way that Mac photos curates our photos, and this will happen automatically, sometimes up to a few times a day, depending on how many photos you're taking. Ah, and so you can see here that for me, one of my past memories that they put together is the best of the year. So if I double click into this memory, I can see that Mac Photos has automatically added a number of photos from the past year into this quote unquote memory. And this is just kind of a cool way to look back at your year or your trip or your day, depending on how they curate and put it together. It's not perfect how it curates it. And personally, if I am doing this, I'd rather create a custom album myself. But it's kind of fun to look at. The next option is people. So when I clicked on people, I see all of these faces pop up, and these are all people that Mac photos recognizes in all of the photos that I've imported . Now, this probably won't happen for you because you haven't imported a lot of photos. But if I click on any of these photos and double click into it, it will show me all the photos of that person. So here I am. I go back. Here's Isabel, and once I'm in here, I can add people's names. So if I click, add name up here now I can type in Isabel, and I can actually add this photo to her contact. So all of the contacts pop open for Isabel that I have and that will help me use these photos in other applications as well. Or I don't need to, and I can just click next, then click done. Or I can add names right here in this menu. So here I can click the plus name. Add my name, Phil. Now, the cool thing is, if we go back to our photos tab, for example, here I am the day that we got engaged and if I go up to view and if I show face names here , you can see that were tagged right here. Cool. Right now, if I go to any of the photos of us, it should have our name. If for some reason this was wrong or something like that. We can edit it just by clicking in or say someone's name. Did it show up? So here we've got Isabel's cousin so we might want to type in his name. Now, if we go back to people, Paul shows up down here as well. So this is another way that you can quickly find photos based off of people. Next, we have places, so this geo tags are photos to specific locations. Now I don't have that many photos that are geo tagged. But if I zoom in here on California, which I can do by double clicking, it will start to bring up MAWR locations. If I continue to zoom in, we can see that some my photos were tagged all over the place. So here, if I don't click into this place, so go back. Just click wants to go into that place here. All these photos from the Huntington Gardens for Isabelle's birthday You have your view options for the map. If you want to see a satellite view, you can see that satellite view or, if you want to just view it by grid or just this regular view, you can do that. And instead of by date, it's by location like So Now if your photos are automatically geo tag, that's okay. We will learn how to customize an at a location and all kinds of other metadata in a lesson coming right up. But first, I just want to go through the rest of these library views. We've seen imports before. This just organizes your photos by when you imported them and the times you imported to them. So here I have this huge folder of all these photos that I imported yesterday from my iPhone. I hadn't done it in a while. And so here's all from my iPhone for from the past year or so. And then once I get up to here, we have these other imports, including this import of the photos that we're using for this class. Recently deleted photos will show in this recently deleted tab, and it has about 30 days until it's actually deleted from your library. So this is kind of the trash can, and you can go ahead and delete all right here to save up space or toe, actually delete them. But if you want to just leave them in here for? And now you can do that in case you want to go back and actually recover them by clicking on them and clicking the recover button. So those are all the library views. So if you have any questions about those, let me know. Otherwise, we're going to move into the album's section in the next lesson, and then later on, we're going to look at how you tell your photos. Add custom locations, names and things like that and keywords to easily find your photos. 11. Creating Albums, Smart Albums, and Albums by Photo Type: in this lesson, you're going to learn how to organize your photos by album. So under the album's menu, you have two different album types will call it One Is Your Albums. So if you click on this drop down, you see any album that you've created. Remember that you can create albums when you're importing photos, and that's what we did with the Mac Photos course. Here's another photo album that I created in the past, which is just a photo walk adventure that I did for a class previously to create a new album. Just click the plus button right here, and you can use three different options. Just create a standard album, which is basically like a folder. So once you do that, click the untitled album text up here and then type in your folder. So maybe I want to create a folder for all of my pets, and then we would have to go in and add individual photos to this album. So if I go back to my photos or view any of my photos this way, I can click on my photo right click and add to my photo album so pets or another way you can do it is just simply dragging into the album. I can click and drag into album, or I can select multiple. So click and then command click all of them that you want and drag into that album. Or you could also select multiple and then right click and add to your folder. Right there are your album. If you're in your different views up here, say I have my people view and then I select Phil. I can select all of my photos by pressing Command A on my keyboard. I make a lot of silly faces of my photos command a selects all of them, and then maybe I want to create a folder just for my face even. You know, that's kind of redundant, but maybe it's a little easier to get to so I can select. All right. Click. Add two new album, and now I can just type in Phil. So here we have all of our basic albums. Another way to create an album is with a smart album. Here we can use different sort of text and combinations of keywords to create an album. This automatically shows, creating an album with all of our favorited photos. Or maybe we want to create an album with all of our photos captured on a specific date or that has a specific person, which is another way we could do it. So say we have Person includes Isabelle, and so this would create a folder for all of Isabel's photos. So click OK, so now we have that smart album with all of is balls photos. So that's how you can create a smart album. And there's lots of other ways that you can create smart albums by keyword by date, captured by camera model. So if I want to create an album with all my canon 70 D photos, it automatically knows the cameras I've used because it's in that metadata so I can choose 70 D and then click OK, and now I have all the photos that I've taken with my 70 d that have been imported into Mac photos. You'll notice when I click this little plus. But in that we also have an option for folders. This is a folder for your albums, so maybe I wanna create a folder for people and then I can put these different people albums underneath this folder, So is Bow. I'll put Phil, or maybe I want to call this family and you can re edit these names by right clicking and choosing renaming family and I can put my pets folder under there to, And this way I can close down this folder, and it just makes it a little bit easier to view. One thing that I would probably do is create folders for years, so I would create a folder for 2017. And this way, whenever I add a new project. Or, if I go on a vacation, Aiken create an album for that vacation and put it within that year. Cool. So I hope that makes sense with how you can create different albums and organize them. Let me know if you have any other questions. I also wanted to show you the Media Types albums menu up here, so if you click on media type, you can see all the different media types that are included. You can go directly to all the videos, all the selfies with. She's just really cool. It knows when you were using the selfie camera on your phone you have all your live photos . So these air the photos that are using the live mode and see. Let's click on open one of them, and it shows that it's live up here. And if you hover over the live button up here, there, you see that the video place with a little live photo plays, and there's a lot to cool effects you can do for life. Photos in the editing options were going to be going over that in a future lesson. That's a new feature for the new version of Mac photos. You also have your panorama as anything shot in slow motion. We haven't really looked at videos yet, but you can double click your videos to open it and press play button to play through. Scrub through here I am trying to juggle. This was a, you know, little snow adventure in Southern California. So that's how you play, and you can watch through your videos and you can see actually that I'm not tagged here. Aiken tag my face here. The tagging doesn't work that well for videos, but I can tag myself in. This video burst is another mode for cameras, where it takes a lot of photos at once. So if I go into one of these bursts and then click make a selection, I can go through the different photos that were a part of that burst. And it depends on how many you take and then, lastly, screen shots, which are screenshots of taken on your phone. So this is a quick way to get to all those different types of photos under albums. Awesome. Thank you so much for watching this lesson. And the next one, we're going to look at adding more data to your individual photos like keywords so that you can more easily find them through the search menu. 12. Easily Find Your Photos with Keywords + Favoriting Photos: One of the best ways to organize photos is by keywords, which is another type of metadata. Metadata is basically all of that information that's attached to any photo. We can see metadata that's included for our photos by clicking on them and clicking on this I info button up here. So no matter what view you're in, I'm in the album view looking at the Mac photos course images were going to be using. So here's this photo that I shot with my go pro on a trip to Australia, diving in the Great Barrier Reef or just snorkeling. So if I have this photo and click this I button, we see information for this photo. What's already included is the name of the image. The date taken, the camera that was used, including the data from that camera like the eso, the lens, the size, the shutter speed, the aperture. But there's all kinds of other information weaken, add two starting at the top. We can add a title for this so we can call this underwater shot down below. We have a description, and so you know this is depends on how detailed do you want to get with your photos. I often don't add a description, but maybe I'll add a keyword. But maybe you do want to add a description in case later on. You want to remember more information about this photo and you forget so I might add photo shot during wavelength tour in the Great Barrier Reef. Now, right now, I remember that the company we went with was called Wavelength, but later on, we might forget. So it might be good to have that information there. And then we have key words, which are words that you can add two photos toe help you find it in search. So for this one, I might add a keyword ocean Australia. And when I type in the words and then press the comma button Adsit as a keyword GoPro fish and we'll show you how this works in just a second. Why, that's important. We can also add faces this way. So if I want, I can click that plus button, I'm gonna put this right on the face and add are facing. I forgot this fish is name, but he looks like a bob to me. I could make this bigger by clicking and expanding the edge. Think so. And lastly we can add a location which this one wasn't automatically tag. So when you start typing in, if you're connected to the Internet, will bring up different options for a specific address. Let's see if they have Great Barrier Reef. Yes, they dio. So I'm just going to add the Great Barrier Reef. So now that will appear on our map. So by exit out of this information, now weaken search for this and finding different ways. So if I go to my place is tab over here, zoom out. I'm just scrolling with the wheel on my mouse that we go over to our Great Barrier Reef. Here we are. That photo shows up over in the Great Barrier Reef. Awesome, right? Another thing we can do is go to the people that we can see that Bob are. Her fish appears in our people. Another thing we can do is search. So say we search for Australia, so type in your word and you'll see that all these photos pop up and actually have a number that pop up because some were actually named Australia. It shows you why these photos are showing up for what you typed in for this. These 158 photos it's popping up because the file name is Australia. And if I click on that, it shows me all the photos that were named Australia and these air photos that I imported and they were named Australia one, Australia to Australia. Three. These were all my photo favorite photos from Australia. That's why they're showing up. But if I go back and go to Australia and do the keyword option, this shows all the photos with the keyword Australia. So let's quickly go back to the Mac photos chorus option and let's go into this photo. Add the keyword wedding came and then let's go to the next one and you can see that when we have the info panel open already. It just changes depending on the photo we have selected. So I'm going to add the foot keyword wedding, and you'll notice that when I have a key word that I've already created. If I start typing in that word, it pops up right here. So if you have it highlighted and you just press the tab of button, it will select it. I'm not. My face isn't recognized here. So I can tag me and Phil and I can add a location, which was Manhattan Beach, California and a little chapel there. Now, if we go back to our photos view and we have our search bar up here and we type in wedding , we can see that we have our keyword wedding right here, which pops up all these photos that we've keep out of the key word for Okay, so I think that makes sense for you right now. Another thing I want to show you is this Favorite buttons. When you hover over any of these images, you see this little heart. So if you just click on the little heart, it favorites that photo. You'll also notice that up in the library, we have a new favorites menu. So if I click on that, it shows all the photos that I've favorite it. And then there's one other way of filtering photos that I want to show you. No matter what sort of you you're in in a an album or in one of these other library views. You have this filtering option up here Right now it's showing all photos. But if I click that button, it drops down this menu where I can choose. If I want to see only the favorited photos. You can see all the edited photos that I've done, all the photos, all the videos or a combination so I can do all of my favorited photos. Now I only have photos in this album, and I haven't edited any. So if I choose Favorited edited, nothing will show up. But if I did have some that were edited and favorites, they would appear. So now, even if I'm in my main photos folder right here, it's showing all folders. But if I go from here to my favorites, it would just show the ones that I've favorited so far. And then one other thing I want to show you is that you can edit multiple photos at the same time. So these two photos were taken and Joshua Tree, so if it's select both of those and then click the information button, not all of the same information appears. But we can add a title description, keyword or location. So for a location I can type in Joshua tree and for keyword. Also type in Joshua Tree, maybe night photography. Now if I exit out of this, but if I go into any of these individual photos and look at that information, it's been tagged, and then same with this other one. Cool. So that's how you add keywords and more information to your photos that allows you more easily find them when searching. If you have any questions, let me know. Otherwise, we'll see you in the next lesson. 13. Basic Editing and Auto-Enahncing: All right, Welcome to a new section on editing your photos in Mac photos. Now we get to the good stuff where we can dive in and learn how to be a little bit more creative and learn the professional techniques and work flows that traditional photo editors use, usually in other, more expensive software. But now you can do a lot of those things right here within Mac photos. So let's go over the basic editing process, how you open the editing menu and do some basic adjustments in this video. And then in the following videos of this section, we're really going to dive deep into all of the different tools that we have for us. So I'm going to be using the photos that you have available to you when you open up any photo again by double clicking or pressing the space bar win, it's selected. You get this edit menu button that pops up right here. We also have a few menu buttons up here that we've seen the information. This button is for sharing. If you click that one, you get your different share options, such as sharing via mail, airdrop, twitter, Facebook, etcetera, you have your favorite, but in which we've seen, and then you also have a rotate, which is a quick way to edit the rotation of your photo. So let me go to this one right here. This is the portrait of my buddy Caleb, and this one needs to be rotated. Most cameras know how to automatically rotate photos or at least have metadata that fixes that. But if you don't, that's a quick way to rotate and just keep clicking until it's rotated. Then there's this special auto enhanced button. What this does is it tries to look at your photo, and it tries to make the exposure and the colors look better. So let me go to this photo right here of Isabel, my wife. This was on our wedding day. She's looking outside a window. It's super bright, so I'm curious to see what the auto enhanced, but and does once you click that it might take a while, depending on the sides of your photo to actually make some changes. And wow, look what it happened. It's trying to fix the exposure because it's saying, Wow, this photo is too bright. But when it does that it didn't do a good job, and I wanted to show you this one as an example. First, to show you that the auto enhance button is not necessarily your best friend. I like going in and manually adjusting my photos. It's kind of there as a crutch. Depending on the photo, it might do something differently. Might work, for example, with this underwater photo. If we click this and auto enhance it, it does give us a little bit more contrast, which I like, but it doesn't fix everything such as the white balance. And so that's why I think you should go into the edit menu when we're editing photos. So when you go into the edit menu, you have all kinds of different options. And in this lesson, I just want to show you how you use thes sliders, not necessarily to show you what and why you should be doing them. So over on the right hand side, you have all of your adjustment options, and you can click the little arrow next to any of these menus to drop down that option. And some of them have mawr sliders underneath like, for example, under light. You have a number of options, and if you don't see those, just click down the options menu. These are a ton of great sliders that professionals used to make their photos look better. So to adjust any of these, what you can do is click in this little slider with the image and drag to the right or left . And that kind of gives you the master adjustment for whatever this category is light meaning the exposure, the brightness. And so this is controlling the entire brightness of this image manually. Another thing you can do is to do an auto. Before I do that, I'm going to click this little back arrow button, which reverts this slider to the original. So within each of these sliders, we also have an auto correction. So auto, correcting this photo, it makes it a little bit darker again. We can revert this to see what it was before and then click it again. Another way to see the before and after is to click this button right here. The show photo without adjustments. So if you click and hold, it shows you what's before, and then when you unclip it shows you the after. So let me go through one of these other option to show you something crazy, so you see it a little bit better. If we go down to color, we can make it mawr less saturated, so let's make it de saturated. Now. If I click and hold this bunny, you can really see what happens with the before and after. We also have this check box over here next to each editing option. If I turn this honor off, it doesn't necessarily revert the changes we've made. It just turns on or off that filter for the time being. So say you want to see what you had done before without the saturation or color adjustments . While you can just turn this off and now we can see the brightness adjustments. Make those changes, or if we want to see the original, we turn them all off. But again, it's probably easier just to click this on or off button. So that's pretty much how you go and addressed any of these settings down here. Like I said before, we're gonna be diving into all of these and showing you exactly what they do in upcoming lessons. To undo all of these adjustments, you can click reset adjustments, which undoes everything we've done instead of doing it one at a time. If you ever click a button and you want to go back, you compress the command Z undo button on your keyboard or go upto edit. Undo So Command Z. That's well under the last thing that you did. So if I reset my adjustments, but then I say, Oh, wait, no, I don't want to do that Command Z To undo that, you'll also see this revert to original button up here in the top left. What is the difference between doing that and reset adjustments? Well, that has to deal with your filters and your crop right here. So we're going to dive into these in the next lessons but say Click on filters and I click on Vivid. Really quick clicking Revert to original will undo not on Lee the filters, but also the adjustment. And I can see all my adjustments by going back to adjust. So now I have a filter and these two adjustments. So if I click revert to original, it takes off both the filters and adjustments. That's pretty much how it works. So that's a good starting point. You can play around with the sliders or continue with me through these lessons as I walk through all of the different editing options. 14. Use Filters to Automatically Make Your Photos Look Amazing: in this lesson. I'm going to show you how to make your photos look amazing in just a few seconds. So I'm gonna open up my car photo, go into my edit menu, and I'm going to use my filters to do so. Thes air preset filters that combine different adjustments such as color adjustments, exposure adjustments, saturation adjustments, vignette all kinds of cool stuff that automatically get you an image that looks pretty darn cool, depending on what style you're looking for. So these air kind of 1-click adjustments, and that's pretty much all you need to know. With these filters, you just click on them. And when you're happy with the one that you want, I mean, I like this dramatic warm. It kind of makes this image look pretty vintage You click done, and this is the same for applying any other effects you can click done, and now you have this photo that's edited. The cool thing about the way that you edit photos in Mac photos is that it's a nondestructive edit. What do I mean by nondestructive? It means that I can always go back and go into the editing menu, adjust and go back to the original photo. Some photo editors. Once you apply adjustments to the photo and then you save that project or save that image. Those edits are burnt or they are tied to that photo. You can't do anything to get back to your original image. And so anything you do with your edits don't worry. You still have your original photo. You can always click this revert to original button. Another thing that some people like to do when they're editing photos is trying different versions. And so, if you right, click and then choose duplicate one photo. This will create two versions of the photo. So in case you do want to have the original photo and then you make a couple adjustments. So you pop on a couple filters and then maybe you want to make another duplicate so I could just duplicate again. Then go into this new image. Say we want Try that now. I can quickly compare these three photos because I have three versions of it. These air three individual images. Now these are not the same image. So if I do something to this photo, it doesn't affect the other photos It's a completely separate image, according to Mac photos. So that's one way of professional editors like to edit photos toe always keep an original copy so they can easily reference it, especially when they're doing multiple kinds of edits. So not just one edit when they're trying to see different versions of an edit. If you want to get rid of any of these copies, just select it and you can delete it. So click delete. You have to confirm or just select the photo and press delete on your keyboard. So that's how you add filters to photos really quickly, and the next lesson, we'll learn about the crop feature. 15. Crop and Rotate: in this lesson, I'm going to show you how to crop your photos. So with his cat photo of my cat shall a click the crop button to get your crop tool? Once you click the crop button, you have this bounding box that surrounds your image. With the highlighted corners, you can take any of the corners and drag it to decrease the size of your crop. So if I drag this in like so, for example, and then I unclip what happens is it saves that crop. And now my photo is cropped in when I was clicking and dragging. Though this is called a freeform crop where I can make it any size, I want any aspect ratio, the ratio of the with to the height. So if I want super skinny, I can do that. And then when I unclip, what I can do is actually click on the photo itself in. Drag it around, too. Move it within my crop. So maybe I want something super skinny and wide like that so I can just click and drag. Then when I unclip, it saves that crop. As always, I can click the revert to original button. What if I want the aspect to lock toothy original aspect? There's this aspect, but over here on the right, if I click the drop down button, you see all of our different presets. We were on free for him. But if you click original now, if I click corner and try to drag it in, it locks it to that aspect ratio. So the aspect of the with to the height is the same, no matter how large it is. So if you want that original aspect, that's how you would do that. Or you can use one of these popular presets like square, which is great for like instagram or social media posts or one of these other presets. Eight by 10 5 by seven These air very popular aspect ratios for printing. When you click on one of these aspects, not the square, you get this portrait or horizontal view mode. So in right now we're on sort of the horizontal mode. But if I want the portrait version, I can click the portrait button, and now that rotates the crop. So I'm getting the portrait mode. So if you want an up and down photo or one that side to side. You can also create a custom aspect. Just click the custom button and then type in your aspect. So maybe I want it four by six. So it's going to save that once you press return, and then again, you can choose the aspect. Do you want it to be wide or tall with that 4 to 6 ratio? Let's go back to our square and let's make a minor rotation adjustment because my kitty's years are a little bit rotated and the eyes aren't perfectly level. And that's with this dial over here on the right that you see when you go into the crop mode. So if I click on this dial and drag up or down, you can see that a grid pops up over my image, which makes it easier to adjust my rotation. So Aiken perfectly align that years and the eyes so they're perfectly horizontal. And when I'm happy, I can just unclip, and now we have our cropped image. So if we go back or click done now, that image is cropped like so so that's the crop feature in the follow up lesson. I'm going to show you how to use cropping to be a little bit more artistic and really what you should be looking out for Win cropping a photo. 16. Case Study: When to Crop and Rotate: There's a few reasons why you might want to crop a photo. This photo, for example. I would want a crop to crop out this blinds up here and maybe these bars on the left and right. So for this one, I might just take my crop, crop it in, like so, so that we get rid of all of those distractions. So that photo itself, I think, is a lot more clean. The other thing you might use the crop feature is to follow the rule of thirds. The rule of thirds is a quote unquote rule. More of a suggestion for how you can make a well balanced photo. So if I take up this photo of the car and I click the original aspect and then click my image, I see these lines, two horizontal lines and two vertical lines. The rule of thirds states that you should put the subject of your image whatever you want to be the most prominent along the intersections of those lines. This is where the eye is naturally drawn. So this car right here is automatically close to that intersection. We could make it a little bit better. Something like this, and also what I like about cropping in like this is that the reflection is also on one of those intersections. So many people would say this looks like a more balance photo compared to the original. Revert to original and undo another way to use the rule. Thers is by putting horizons or different lines in your image along those lines along the thirds lines, and you see here that the horizon is pretty much along that top horizontal line. So that's already kind of using the rule of thirds. This photo was already really good. Let's go to another one to see how we can make another minor adjustment to fix it. So if we go to this image of the rocks and the water, we change our aspect original. And then again click. We see that our horizon at the top is again right along that line, which is good. It's well balanced. This rock on the bottom right is almost on the intersection. We can zoom in just a little bit to get it more on that intersection, then drag up like so to get it more balance using the rule of thirds. Another thing to keep in mind when you're cropping your photos. Taking photos and editing them is it's really nice to have horizontal horizons, so here the horizon is a little bit tilted. So if I take my rotation, I can now adjust it so that horizon of the lake and the woods in the back is more horizontal. So those were just very minor things. But probably subconsciously, it's going to help make your image look a little bit better to people. Now the rule of thirds is meant to be broken. Here's an image where the tree is centered. Yes, I could come in here and I could crop it so that we're using the rule of thirds something like that. Maybe zoom up a little bit. Something like that is using the rule of thirds, but to me it's almost not as interesting as the regional, where the tree is right in the middle of the frame and it's very symmetrical, so it really depends on what you're going for. You don't have to follow the rule of thirds, but it is one way, especially when you're taking photos of people that you can compose your photos a little bit better. That's really one of my first suggestions for beginner photographers is when you're taking photos of people instead of putting them right in the middle of the frame, you know, move them a little bit or move yourself in the camera just a little bit so that they're off to the side just a tiny bit. The last thing I want to show you with the crop menu is this flip button. By clicking the flip button, it mirrors the emit, and this might be useful in some instances. Like for some, it's not going to be useful here if I flip this. The VSO text is completely backwards, so that's not good. But maybe for this photo of the fish, maybe you're putting this together in some sort of graphic, and you want the fish to be on the right hand side. You can flip it, and right now, to me, it looks a little unnatural because I just flipped it from the original. But for most people seeing this photo for the first time, they wouldn't think twice. So that's the crop feature. We learned a lot about how you can use it, how you can crop. In the next lesson, we're going to jump into some more artistic details and ways you can make your photos look more professional using crop. 17. Light / Exposure Adjustments: in this lesson and the following lessons. We're going to dive back into the individual adjustments that you can make in Mac photos, and I'm going to dive a little bit deeper into each individual one, so each video will be each one of these options. So if you're feeling like oh, I'm ready to go, I can just play around with this myself. That's totally fine. I'm creating these lessons for people who are just starting out and really want to know how I as a photographer, would use these different sliders. So I know it's going to be a little bit more in depth and maybe you want to skip ahead, and that's totally fine. First, we're going over the light adjustments. And remember, for each of these adjustments, you might have a drop down that you can click the little arrow to get to, and then the options drop down to get even more the 1st 1 The light adjustment just controls the overall brightness and darkness of the entire photo, and it's an automatic way to tryto fix the exposure to make it as well exposes possible. So what that means is it's not too bright and its not too dark. So when I increase the overall slider up here, what's actually happening is some of the highlights are being brought down because they don't want the highlights to be completely overexposed or completely blown out. As we say, if we drop this down, it will drop down the highlights, but it's bringing up the shadows. So let me go through these individually. So you know what's happening. This brilliant slider is kind of similar to the overall slider. It addressed multiple things at once. It will slightly bring down the dark parts of your image, bring up the light parts to add a little bit more contrast, and it makes it a little bit more vibrant as well. Exposure is a little bit different because this just brings up the exposure of every single part of your image. So you can see if I do this every part, even including the highlights. See up here in this balloon and over here in the sky, it got brighter as well as the darker parts where our faces are and same. If I bring it down, everything becomes dark. If I double click, it will revert that individual slider back to the original highlights just effects the highlight parts of the image, so you can see that it's just affecting mostly the sky in the background and some of the areas up here where it's a little bit brighter. And just like that, the shadows just effects the dark part, just the darker part of where we're standing. Brightness is also similar to exposure. It increases the brightness of the entire image, and it makes it a little bit more flat and washed out, not as contrast e as just doing the exposure. And then contrast is another way. These are all kind of doing similar things, but when you increase the contrast, what happens is it darkens the darks and brightens the bright. Or, if you decrease, contrast, it brings up the darks. So see that all the darker areas become brighter, and then the lighter parts become darker, creating this very flat image, and that's kind of a cool style that you see a lot nowadays. But typically increasing contrast actually makes a more dynamic image, and when you also increase contrast, it's increasing the saturation or the colors, the vibrance of the colors in your image. So that's one thing you need to pay attention to to and then, lastly, with Black Point vicious brings up or brings down, actually makes the darkest parts the blacks of the image darker. So now that you know what each slider does, what would I actually do to this photo? First, I would bring up the darks, the shadows, because we were in this shadows when taking this photo. So I want our faces to be a little bit more colorful. I would also bring down the highlights just toe, create a little bit more of a flat image, but also to bring back a little color in the sky that we lost because I did that. I want to add back a little contrast. So this Deke actually then decreases the darks. But it's more of the darker parts of our hair, the blacks of our jackets, the colors up here. But our faces are still more exposed properly. So something like that, and maybe let's see, if we bring down or up the black point, it's a little bit just a tiny bit. I don't want to go too far. If I go too far then Isabel's hair come becomes completely black. My sure is completely black. There's no information there and I don't want that. I've still want there to be actual information in details there, so that's initially probably what I would do. I would also just play around with the brilliance, just to see how that what that does and actually increasing that. I actually like that a little bit. But then there's parts of my skin that is a little bit too bright because the sun is shining on my cheek. So I then go into the highlights and bring down the highlights even more so because I increased the brilliance, I decrease my highlights. So let's just click the before and after button to see what it looks like before after before. After automatically, this image is looking a lot better. Our faces aren't in the shadows, which was really bothering me before, before our eyes are attracted to the balloon. Up here, we're not really looking at our face, but now, with our faces mawr well exposed, it looks better. And so that's what I would do with the light adjustment layers for this photo 18. Color Adjustments: in this lesson, we're going to learn about the color adjustments. I'm using this portrait image. There are three options. Four color. Well, first you have your overall color, which brings up the saturation and the contrast, the vibrancy of all the colors or down. If you want to quickly make your photo black and white with the saturation slider me. Revert that. But underneath you have the three slider options. First, you have just saturation. Now what saturation does is it brings up the colors, no matter what color it is all colors it will bring up. So you can see that if I bring up the saturation of this portrait, it starts to look a little bit funky. The skin it gets a little bit to read. The eyes are brilliant, which are nice. You see these blue speckles in her hair, but it starts to get a little bit warped. Of course, going down if you want again that black and white image that's great. But adding saturation usually isn't the best option for photos of people, because you do get that sort of those red tones and those weird sort of skin tones coming out with the saturation slider contrast is a little bit different. What contrast does is it makes colors that are next to each other a little bit more separate. I know that's a little bit confusing, but up in the light settings, what contrast did was it made the darks darker and the brights brighter with contrast under color. What it does is it separates the colors that are next to each other. So you have a little bit more differentiation, and I like adding a little bit of contrast in the color to portrait's because it makes things like eyes and lips stand out a little bit more. It's very subtle, but specifically in this portrait you can see with this glitter that's on her face. If you do the original and off, it definitely makes that glitter pop a little bit more. What caste does is it gets rid of any of the blue light that is being cast on an image from sort of that fluorescent cool lightbulb. Now this depends on what type of image in if you're using natural light outside, you might not need to use this, but if you're using a fluorescent flash or something with a cooler light temperature. Now we can talk for days about color temperature, but basically lights come in different temperatures. Some are cooler. Some are a little warmer, so a little bit more yellow, and so if you want a little bit of a warmer feel, you can increase the cast. That's basically what you need to know. To make it a little bit warmer, you can increase the cast. If you want it to be a little bit cooler, you can decrease the cast creatively. This can be used to get some cool images. If you want something really cool like this a little bit more muted, or if you're going for something a little bit more warm, you might want to increase the cast. That's more of a personal preference. Typically, I use the white balance to adjust the color temperature if it's off and we'll go over that in one of the future lessons. But with the cast lighter, I use it more as a creative tool to bring some warmth or coolness to an image. So those are your color sliders and in the next lesson will be going over a black and white 19. Black and White Adjustments: in this lesson. We're going over the black and white adjustments I'm using. This photo of me actually shot at my wedding, and I think this is a good one to turn into more of a black and white image. The intensities ladder increases or decreases the tone different tones of the image. So if I decrease this, I actually like decreasing the intensity, especially for portrait, because skin becomes a little bit softer, you don't get as much detail, which maybe you want, but especially for a skin. You can see that you see all the details and my skin, and it actually makes it even more detailed in a little off, which I don't like that much. So for this image, I would decrease the intensity a bit with neutrals, this effects sort of the middle gray areas of our photo. This is another sort of advanced photography tip or topic, but you have different areas of your photo. Neutrals are more of those mid range exp closure parts of your photo. So not the super bright areas or not the super dark areas like my hair. So if I bring this up, it will bring up a lot of those mid tone parts of the image. So, like where my shirt is, if I bring it down, it will make those a bit more contrast. E. If I do that a little bit too much, though, it starts to affect my skin a little bit, which I don't like. So I would just play around with this. There's other ways to add contrast, of course, like in the light section, which would be looked pretty good in this image. But for neutrals, I might bring this down just a little bit. The tone will also add a little bit more contrast. So if I increase the tone, this makes the dark starker and the brights brighter, which I think for black and white images really helps to get that. You kind of like film noir. Look where you have, like, these sharp shadows on my face. I like the light that was coming in from this window to my left to the right of this photo . If I decrease this, it becomes very flat image, which is again, a style that you might like, but for me, for black and white images, I like to increase the tone quite a bit to get that more contrast image. And then, lastly, you have a grain slider, which is just an artistic effect that you can add grain to your image. This is sort of replicating that old black and white film stock type of photo where you do get grain in your in your image. So there's just replicating that style if you want grain or not, and you can kind of see that. And let's look at the before and after, so before, after you can see that green. I think it's way too much time I actually not put any grain myself on this image. But perhaps you want a little bit so before, after before, after I might go in here and do have some other adjustments. And the main one is bringing down the Black point just a little bit, actually, So slide into the right just to add that little bit more contrast, maybe bringing up the highlights, too. So for black white images, sometimes I like to go a little bit extreme, even though we're starting to lose little information in my shirt over here, we still have that information on my cheek. And I like that a lot. Play with shadows. You know, if I want to go really, really contrast e make my face even darker This right side of my face, which is kind of cool. That kind of like that. So before, after before after. So those are the things that I would do for this photo. But now you understand the different sliders underneath the black and white adjustment. Thanks so much for watching. 20. Retouching Photos and Red Eye Removal: in this lesson, I'm going over the retouch and the red eye sliders. The retouch slider is a way to remove blemishes or just to make something in your image disappear. So I'm gonna pick on myself just a little bit in this lesson. So I brought up my photo that we worked on last time and I reverted it to the original so I can see what I'm working with. A little bit better. I'm gonna zoom in here with the slider and drag up to my forehead where you know, I've got little pimples. Little frack holds things that I might want to get rid of with a bit of retouching. So all you have to do is open the retouch slider and then click this little brush. When you do that, you see your mouse changes to this little circle when you click. What happens is Mac photos tries to find a similar part of the image to sort of blend with this part that I am brushing over. So what you see happen, though, is that Frankel disappears. So let me show you the original. Now this one. So what Mac photos did. It probably found some similar tone and color, and it blended with the original. Let me show you one more time. So let's take our brush and I can address the size by increasing or decreasing the slider. And here these air. I actually had my ears piers. I don't really use earrings anymore, but I still have my little hole in my ear. So if I click that and it gets rid of it pretty easy here as well, pretty easy. So if I press the space bar, it allows me to click around. What if there's a part of my image that I brushed, but it doesn't look that great down here. You'll see that you have this option two option click to choose the source area. So if I want Mac photos Teoh take from this specific area of my skin where my mouse is, and put that on this part where I have this little mole or freckle, what I can do is initially just option Click and you see, when I press option, it turns the mouse into this little plus sign. So I'm clicking that, and then when I let go of option and I click up here. What happens is Mac photo says I'm going to take that area that you just option clicked and put it and blend it to where I'm clicking here. So let me show you how this works to an extreme. If I option click in my hair and then I click over here where this Frankel is. It actually takes some of that information from the hair and blends it over here. I'm gonna undo that. And that doesn't look so good. It's very obvious, but say I option Click over here where this skin is, and then click and drag over this pimple or freckle or whatever that is. Blemished beauty, Mark. Whatever you wanna call it, it fixes it a lot better because you're taking an area that's very similar. So that's how you use the retouch tool to fix blemishes to get rid of pimples or anything like that. What if I want to use the retouch tool to get rid of this cloud in this image? Zoom in just the bed and get over here where this cloud is so we can see it take our brush and I have to make it a little bit bigger and then just brush across this cloud. And, hey, look at that. The cloud automatically disappears. It might not work. If you're going for a huge part of your image, let's see how well it does over here. It does a decent job, but you can still see the edges. It does do a pretty good job. It works better when there's like an individual thing that you're getting rid of and not just a part of the cloud, because you can kind of see the edges where I started to disappear. But, man, that's a pretty good way to get rid of any objects you don't want in your image. For example, what if I wanted to get rid of all of these fish around this big fish? I can just take my retouch brush, make sure the size is big enough, paying over the little fishies and look at that. I can just automatically disappear her make thes erase these fish. You might have to go over a couple of times option click to get rid of something if it's not working. And now if I just keep going, sometimes it takes going over a couple times you might want to change the brush size, you know, do a little bit smaller, a little bit bigger, depending on the details that it has. I'm pretty amazed by this right now. Mac photos is pretty darn amazing. So now we have this image where just this fish is. Get a zoom in there and we can get is detailed as we want. Now you can see the original and then later. Amazing Mac photos is a really awesome program and hope you're really realizing this because this does almost as good of a drop, if not better, than photo shop. And I used photo shop for a lot of things. But this does automatically and it's just men. I'm impressed. Cool. So that's how you use the retouch lighter, the red Ice letter. If you have red eye from a camera flash or something like that, we don't get that as much anymore because cameras air smart either removing red eye or just not having read I when you take that photo. But all you have to do is click on the red eye slider, click on the brush, make sure the brush size is the size of the eyeball itself right there and then click. And if there is red eye, it will get rid of the red eye. Now we don't have any red eye in this photo, but that's really all you have to do. Just go over and click, and it's gonna automatically do that. Even just clicking the auto might actually help because it can tell where the eyes are cool . So that's the red ice lighter. If you're confused about that, just let me know. But it will definitely look better if you have a photo with actual red eye. So those were the retouch and the red eye sliders. I hope you enjoyed this lesson. If you have any questions, let me know. Otherwise, we'll see you in the next lesson. 21. White Balance Adjustments: in this lesson, we're going to learn about white balance. White balance basically fixes the colors of your image. Depending on what kind of light source you're in and the settings on your camera, your photo might look a little bit warm. It might look a little cool. Little bluish might look a little green. It might look a little pinkish, which is magenta, and that just depends on what lighting source you have. Also, if there's a combination of lights like here in this image, all the light that was shining on me was coming through the window. So it was just direct sunlight. And this photo looks pretty good, is pretty natural. It doesn't look a little too cool or a little warm, but playing with the white bonds, we can make it perfect. So underneath white balance, you have three options in this drop down and these air three different ways to get proper white bonds. Let's go through them one at a time. First with neutral gray. This is sort of a standard way of getting white balance. What you do is, you click the little eyedropper button right here and then you go over to your photo, and what ask you to do is choose a neutral gray in the photo to set its white bounce. What that means is find something that is, has no color that is white or gray that doesn't have color to adjust to. This is what is going to set your white point, meaning that wherever I click, this is going to be white. This is going Teoh, have no color, and then it just all the colors around the photo to that point. So if I click over here on my shirt over here, it makes the image a little bit more warm because this sure is a little bit cool. It was a little bit blue. Once I click that it just everything. So this becomes more of a neutral white and then everything else adjust accordingly, so that means everything gets a little bit warmer. Once we do that, we can actually play around with a slider to adjust it manually and again. If I drag to the left, it becomes cool to the right, becomes warm. If I click somewhere else, say I click down here, it might adjust differently, so really you need something that's pure white or pure gray. And you might not have that in all of your photos. And that's why one of these other options might work better. The next option is with skin tone. Let me undo this and revert to the original and then go to skin tone. Now I automatically tries to adjust for skin tone, but we really need to pick it ourselves. So let's choose the eyedropper. And now, instead of picking something that's white or gray, we pick the skin tone so I'll just pick this on my hand. And now this makes it look a lot better. It makes it look a little bit pink, and so maybe I would go in here and again adjust it myself. Let's just go to this other photo to show you what happens. So if we go to a skin tone taker, color picker picker, natural skin tone so typically I'd find somewhere where there's not a lot of makeup. So maybe over here and see that makes it a lot more warm. A lot adds a little bit of color pink to it, so it's not as cool and green if we go back to this photo. Let's go to the last one temperature intent, and this is a good way to really dive in and customize it yourself. First, you can pick the color picker or the eyedropper and again ask you to choose a neutral gray in the photo to set as its white bones, just like we did with the neutral gray. So choosing the cufflink down here actually works really well because that's the most great thing in this photo. So doing that with the neutral gray or the temperature intent works well. From here. We can adjust the temperature and the tent so the temperature, like before, is the warmth of it. So if I drag to the left, it becomes more cool to the right. It becomes more warm so I can do this custom and see what I like. Maybe I want to add a little bit of warmth to the image. You can use this to get a little bit more creative. Tint will make it more green or more pink. So depending on what your lighting source, this might help a lot to. Let's go into this underwater photo because playing with the white balance can really make this look a lot more natural. Shooting underwater. Everything has that really blue tint, which sometimes looks good. But maybe I want to look a little bit more clear now. I can't use the eyedropper because nothing in this image is neutral, Gray. So I'm going to have to use my sliders. So first, I would just play around with it. If I drop the temperature, that actually looks pretty good. It makes the water look a little bit more blue. If I increase the temperature, it makes it look a little bit more yellow, which I don't necessarily like right now. But I think I don't like it because there's a lot of green in it. So if I leave this increase, keep it a little warm. But now take my tent and drag it to the right. What happens is it gets rid of some of that green that I don't like, and it becomes a little bit more neutral color and is not as blue if I drag this all the way to the left. I don't like that at all. I don't like that at all. So I'm gonna keep the a tent over to the right quite a bit. And even if I play around with the temperature afterwards, I think that's what the problem was. Was the green tint. Even if it's blue, I like that more than the original. So if I undo this turn on off original edited, I like the Blue, but I don't like the green. So playing around with adding some magenta really has helped with this image. And if you are doing underwater photographer you, one thing that really helps is playing with the contrast under the light settings even is taking the overall light setting can really help make it a more dynamic image. Something like this, I think, looks a lot better because just shooting underwater, everything becomes a little bit washed out literally. The colors are are as contrast e and so I like having a little bit more contrast like this . I might boost exposure when I do that, bring down the highlights just a bit, so they're not completely overblown. But something like that looks a lot better to me. So playing with the white bounds and with the light adjustments can make your underwater photos look a lot better. Cool So that is the white balance adjustment. If you have any questions, let me know. Otherwise, we'll see you in the next lesson. 22. Levels: in this lesson, we're going to go over the levels adjustment. This is getting even. Mawr Advance in how we adjust the exposure of our image. First, you'll notice that under levels there are five different options. RGB luminous red, green and blue. Let's start with RGB, which adjusts every color of your photo. Red, green and blue will adjust just particular colors within your photo, which can be cool for getting a little creative. And luminess is good if you're editing black and white photos, the first thing you'll notice when you open the Levels panel is that we have this graph over here, which is called a hist a gram, and this basically shows the exposure of different parts of our image on the left hand side . You can think of this graft as going from darks too bright. And so in this image you can see that a lot of these colors are sort of in these shadows. And over here on the left you have these different points down at the bottom. So this is your black point. This is your white point. In the middle, you have your mid colors, you have your shadows and then your highlights. So blacks shadows, mids highlights whites. And so this is your brightest parts of your color. So this little peek over here, this is all of the sky up here. Whereas this peak over here is the mountains and the bottom of this image. Let's just show you another image to show you what it would look like. I think this is a good one to see the hissed a gram. With these air large images and depending on how fast your computer is, it will affect how fast Mac photos loads the settings. So here this history Ram looks completely different. You have this big spike right in the middle, which is the Joshua Tree, but everything else around it is there's no real information. There's not a lot of highlights. There's not a lot of breaks. And so that's why you don't see a lot of highlights and brights over here versus let's look at this photo of Isabel at the wedding. Everything is white, and it's almost completely white over here that you see in the history. Graham, you see this big spike on the right hand side, and you don't see much darks So that's how you read the history, Ram. But how do we actually adjust these levels? What we do is just click and drag these different points at the bottom of the graph. If we click and drag this left most one, this is the black point, and this is basically telling Mac photos what part of the image is completely black? And so when I drive us to the right, you can see that all the other levels are being dragged as well. And that will happen if we click either the Black point or the white point, but not the middle points. I know this is getting a little bit more advanced and a little bit more technical, but I hope you can follow. Let me know if you are confused at any point, basically, as a photographer, what we generally want is a photo to have a whole spectrum of colors and brightness from black to white, and this is a good example where we want this clouds to be white to be bright, but we also want some dark parts. So a good hissed a gram would show spikes all the way through, and this one doesn't. The spike doesn't start till around this point right here. So what I would do is take this black point and adjust this over right around here. No, I don't necessarily have any blacks completely blacks in this image, so I don't want to go too far, because what happens when I go too far? I'm telling mac photos that this area right here should be completely black. It should have no information, but that's false because their trees and is not completely black. So I'm gonna leave this around here. We already have white over exposed parts of this image. So I'm not going to bring down the highlights like this because I already have highlights in this image. What I can do now is adjust the individual parts so I can go in here to the darks, and I can bring up the darks a little bit because I think that the darks are a little bit too under exposed. I want to bring those up. I can also go into the mids and bring those up as well. Now, this is adjusting different parts of the image and then go into the highlights and see okay , If I drag this to the right, I bring back a little bit more detail and the clouds drying the left makes it even more bright. So I might drag this to the right a little bit and just play around. Do I want it a little bit more contrast, E or not? Something like that is looking pretty good, I think. Then, depending on if I like it like this, I can adjust the black point again in case I brought made it too dark or too bright. And this is just playing around. So if we see the original before after before, after there's a little bit more contrast, it's better exposed throughout the entire image. At least, I think so. Let's go to this Joshua Tree photo and see what happens with RGB levels in this photo. We already have something that is black, which is this Joshua tree. It's very under exposed if I want to make it completely under exposed Aiken drive the black point just over just slightly. We have this spike in the history Graham, which is the Joshua Tree that is now completely under exposed. If I bring my white point in you see that if I dry all the way to the left like this, what is telling Mac voters to do is that this part of the image, the sky, should be white. Of course, that's not what we want, but we might want the stars to be white. We might want this little bright part in the back to be a little bit more bright, so I might bring this down, like so until it touches this peak. And then from here, I can go in, play around with the middle mids until I get an image that I want. I might want the shadows to be a little bit darker, but not as dark as the blacks. And then, lastly, let's go into this image of Isabel. I don't want to bring the whites down really at all anymore, because so this entire image is overblown already. What I want to do is bring up the black point, though, and I might say, OK, I want the shadow in her hair to be completely black, so I'll just drag us up here until it is completely black. But then when I do that, I think her skin gets a little bit too much in the shadows, a little too dark. So let's bring that up just a little bit toe look a little bit more natural. So then I take my mids and adjust that back. So something like that looks a little bit more contrast. E get darker darks, and even if I want to get rid of, it's hard for you to see. But I do see some colors over here in the highlights. If I want to get rid of that, I can bring down the white point just a little bit and then maybe adjust back with the highlights over here to get a little bit more information back in Isabel shoulders and the dress and things like that. So that's the basic levels with the RGB Trop town, which is affecting all the colors of your image. Say you want to adjust just individual colors. We can go down to the red levels. And now for this photo of the car, if I drag up the slider, it actually makes the image more blue and green. If I dragged down the white point, it makes it more red. And so dragging to the left will make things more red and drag into the right woman decreased the Reds, and so I could go into the different parts of the image. Do I just want the darks to get a little bit more red? I can drag this slider to the left or right. This image is very blue already, so let's go down to blue and see what happens. And you see the color hissed. A gram right here. Dragging the black point to the right actually makes this image. It decreases the blues, but it makes it a little bit more natural looking. It's not as blue. I don't want it to look so cool and sort of dreary. But when I do that, I start to see a lot of the greens. So let's go into the greens and drag up the greens as well, not too much. And maybe not with the black point, maybe with the midpoint or just actually the shadows, because a lot of the green is in the plants back here. The ground right here, which I think is looks pretty cool if we just want to affect the highlights or the sky in this image weaken. Do that, say we want to add more red to the sky. We can take this highlights and dragged to love, to write, to make the sky look more red. You know, this is where you get a little bit more funky and creative with your editing. Not necessarily. Just adjust the white balance or fixed the colors. That's what you can do with white balance. But if you want to get more creative, you can do that with the levels, and you could multiply these things. We've already adjusted the red green blues, but now we can go into the RGB and set our white point. We can make everything a little bit brighter. We can increase the contrast by bringing up the Dark's but say, you know, that's pretty good bye. We're losing some of the detail in the car. So now let's go into our shadows and bring those up just a little bit. You can see that what I'm doing is a lot of playing around with what I'm doing. There's no right or wrong way to edit a photo. Of course, there's a right way to make it look more natural. But if you're getting creative Like what I'm doing right now. All it takes is playing around with your photo. I would love to see the photos you're playing around with and will have in this class an assignment for you to share your photos with us. But if you have any adjustments that you're making for any of these photos right now, please post it to the course. I would love to check him out. So that's the levels. The last one was Luminant. This works better. It's very similar to the RGB where it affects everything in the photo. But it works really good if you have a black and white photo, so let me go back to this photo of me. Let's turn on black and white. We'll turn off the white balance because when an image is black and white, you don't need the blight bones. And now we can addressed the contrast and the exposure of the image. And this is a good example because right here were saying the white point should be right around here, which is some of these highlights in my shirt. And then the Black point should be probably my hair up here so we're increasing the contrast by bringing in the white point and the black point. And then from there we can just the midpoint if we want more or less contrasts. And if we want to be brighter or darker, so play around with it. Let me know if you have any other questions and in the next lessons will be diving into another MAWR advanced technique with curves. 23. Curves: In this lesson, you'll learn about the curves adjustments. Very similar toe levels. It's a way to adjust the exposure of different parts of your image based off of color. The first drop down has RGB red, green and blue. It doesn't have a luminous like levels, but RGB will affect your entire photo all the colors, which are all included in the reds, greens and blues. You have this graph down here, which is also the hissed a gram with this line in the middle. What you can do is basically click in this graph and drag, so click this line and drag up or down, and it creates this curved line and you can click multiple times to create a cool effect so you can see behind that this is the colors that we're seeing. So if I want to adjust these colors right here, I can click right here and drag up or down, and that's bringing up or down the exposure. So if I want to bring up the darks, I can go down here and drag up to bring up the Dark's. But what happens when I do that? It creates this curve that makes everything more exposed. So then say I want to go up here to the highlights which are on the right hand side of your image and dragged down. Now this will bring down our highlights. Now, that looks kind of weird. I don't like that sort of flat look, but that's a style you might want. So let me go. Undo that. The other thing that this curve graph has is the black point in the white point. So if you see these two buttons on the right and the left bottom corners, this is the black point in the white point. By dragging the black points of the right, you're saying that this part of the image I want to be pure black. So if I go all the way over here, it's saying that all these colors over here on the left hand of the side of the graft should be black. Now, I don't want to do that because it looks pretty good already, but it's a little bit too dark, so I can bring in the right hand white point. So if I drag the white point to the left, it's saying that we want this area of the graph to be completely white, and that makes us a much better exposed image. So that looks pretty good in terms of overall exposure. But now we might want to add a little bit more contrast by dragging down the dark's like so on the left hand side of the curve and then dragging up the brights on the right hand side of the curve. Now, this is a little bit extreme, but you can see that as I create more of an s curve, we get more contrast. And that's something you'll hear a lot with photographers. With contrast is that you want a nice s curve and that will add nice contrast. So let me go to this photo right here and show you what a typical S curve would do. Typically, all you do is click on the left hand side, drag that down to make the darks darker, and then drive on the right to make the right brights brighter. This is basically the same thing you're doing, as if you drag up the contrast up here in the light settings. Or if you drag these shadows down and the highlights up, it's just making the brights brighter and the darks darker. Let me reset this photo. The other thing you have are these eye droppers. The left most I dry dropper is for setting the black point. So if I want this part of the image to be black, I can click on that image, and it makes that image black. If I want this part of the image to be black, I can click that it makes it black, and then it adjusts everything accordingly. So you wanna use this eye dropper to select just the black point of your image? So this is a good option for this photo of the Joshua Tree. So let me undo the levels that we did in the previous lesson. And I would tell a Joshua tree that I want this part to be black, which I still see a little bit more information. So I want this to be completely blacks all choose my black point and I'll click right there and it becomes black. So everything around that sort of color becomes black, making this a perfect silhouette. Then I would take my white point, which is the right most eyedropper and say Okay, I want this area right back here which is actually the moon shining behind this Joshua tree to be white. So I'll click that and adjust everything accordingly. This one I don't have to choose the mid point, but you can use this middle eyedropper to choose the middle gray point. I don't have that in this image, but back in this image, these clouds right here are a pretty good middle gray. So what I would do is take my white eyedropper. She's the white point, which might be this part of the cloud right here makes it a little bit brighter. Then I would take this mid grey and choose part of the cloud that looks middle gray, something like that. And then the black point. There's not really a great black point in this image, But maybe if I want out a little bit more contrast, I might pick thes plants right here. These trees that are in the shadows of the these mountains just like that and that makes this a lot more contrast. E because what I'm saying is that I want this to be a black, which makes all of these darker I want this part of the cloud to be grey, which makes all the clouds that middle gray exposure and then the white part right here. It makes that brights the whites. So everything else is adjusted accordingly. So say I do that, but I realized Wow, these mountains are a little bit too bright. How do I pinpoint exactly where those mountains are on my graft? Adjust them. What I can do is choose this little pinpoint button right here, this little target and so clicking that And then I go into my image and picked the point where I want to adjust. So right here in the middle of these mountains. And what happens is it puts a point on this graph exactly where that color is. From there, I can click that point and drug up or down to adjust that part of the image. Of course, when I do that, it's addressing the entire image because this is a curve and it just everything with that curve. But dropping that down makes it look pretty cool, actually. And I hope you're following along. I know this is a little bit confusing, but just bear with me as we go through the other Drop down options. Let's bring up this photo of this pup, and this is a great example of where I would go into the green curve to adjust just the greens of this image. Because this photo is very green and again you can do these things and Mac photos in multiple ways. I can go into the white balance, go into temperature intent and drag up the tent to get rid of some of that green. Or I can just go into my curves, go to the green curve, take my curve and drop it down just a little bit, you know, with the curves. It's very powerful tool, so I might bring this down just a little bit. And when I do that adds a little bit too much red. So then I would go into my Reds and bring down my Reds, and that is a much more natural looking photo before, After before, after, let's go into the back into my Joshua tree photo. Here's an example where I want might want to bring up the blues so I might bring up the blues to get that mawr blue night sky. And if that's maybe a little bit too purple, what we do you can do is decrease a little bit of the red to make it even more just straight up blue and not as purple. So you can see that you're playing with colors. You're mixing colors. You're basically increasing or decreasing the brightness of different colors. But it's a great way to get a custom white balance or just to make your photo look even more amazing. Thanks so much for watching. And if you have any questions, let me know otherwise, just play around with it and we'll see you in another lesson. 24. Definition Adjustments: the next adjustment is this definition adjustment, and it's a very simple ones. This is going to be a quick lesson. All this does is it adds sort of sharpening in quote unquote definition to your photo, and this is a good example. Toe Look at this via so light streak image. By increasing the amount of definition, you can see more of the edges of different objects. The stars become a little more pronounced. Let's go all the way with it and go before after before, after things get a little bit more punchier in this image, this other landscape photo might be a good one. To add definition to just increasing the definition, it gives more contrast. But it's not as much about increasing or decreasing the exposure as it's looking at all the different things in your image, all the different colors that are next to each other. And it's just bringing a little bit more sharpness and definition defining one thing necks still in other. So with this on versus off, you can see that you just have a little bit more detail in this image. Great for landscapes. Not so much great four. Portrait's so if I bring up this portrait and increase the definition, I definitely don't like the definition added to Portrait's. It makes all the little details in your face come out, which I don't like at all. I usually like to make the skin a little bit softer. So for portrait's definitely I would not go with definition but for landscapes, definitely something where I would add a bit more definition. Same like with this one. Adding definition might help a little bit. You know, you can go too far with it, and something was that's like how I like to edit. I like to go too far and then bring it back rather than suddenly going up and up and up, because when I do that, I might end up going a little too far. But just by going crazy with it and then backing off, that's tend to make your images look a little bit more natural as you added them. That's what definition is 25. Selective Color Adjustments: the next adjustment is this selective color adjustment. I really like the tool. It allows you to pick a specific color and adjust things like the Hugh, the saturation and the luminess, which is the overall brightness of that color. I think this hot air balloon photo is a great one just to show you how this works. What you can do is select the color up here in this color picker, which just selects that specific color. Or you can pick a color from your image by choosing the eyedropper and then selecting a color, which might be a better way to really pinpoint that color. So say, I want to adjust the greens of this photo from this hot air balloon. Aiken slight that specific green by clicking on it. Now I can adjust them with hue. Saturation and luminous. Hugh will change the color of that green, so if I drag to the left, you can see it's changing and affecting. It's also adjusting some of the yellow because there is some yellow in that green. So if I drag us all the way to the left, it makes that green really in orange. Saturation will increase or decrease the saturation of that color. Aiken dry all the way to the left to make it de saturated. Of course, it only works if the hue is at zero. So I reset that 20 so increase or decrease the saturation of the green and then luminous will make it brighter or darker. So bright dark for that color range will adjust how much of that color is selected versus colors that are similar. So if I decrease the range, you can see if I go a little bit too far, it stops selecting even the green. But if I decrease this, it does stop affecting the yellow, which is pretty good if I increase. This affects the green, plus all similar colors, which includes the yellows, which is maybe what you want. So let's go to this Joshua Tree photo, which will give us another example. So say I just picked the blue right here at the top. We can change the cue of the sky because the sky is blue, and so I can quickly change the entire color of the sky and shoot. Change the saturation. I can change the brightness of the sky with Lou Minutes, which is actually just affecting that color. So just the blues or I could go in here with the color picker to get a little bit more specific. But in this instance, just picking the color up here helps a lot and just play around the hue to for the sky can make it look a little bit better if we wanted a little bit more pink or a little bit more blue. So saying this image, we want toe, choose the greens and really just bring up the saturation of the greens. We can take a color picker, choose some of the green somewhere like that and then increase the saturation. And now again, that brings up some of the saturation of the yellow as well. Maybe we want to change the hugest a little bit to make it a little bit more green, so we'll take the hue and drag to the right just a little bit, and that makes the colors more green. So before, after before after, of course, we're getting the level adjustments were getting the definition adjustments from before, but we can turn those offer now and you can still see you know what it changed. This is It went from sort of a bland, yellow sort of mountain site to this, you know, very lively green, almost too lively. So I might bring this back. So it's not so unnatural. But that's a cool example of how you can use this tool to make plants or trees or any greenery look even more vibrant. So that's the selective color tool. Thanks so much for watching, and we'll see in the next lesson. 26. Noise Reduction: in this lesson, you're going to learn how to reduce digital noise. First, we have to understand what noise is. And this is a great example that I have recently added to your folder. You're going to see it when you start taking this course, but I didn't have it earlier When recording. This is a photo I shot last Friday with my iPhone at a Coldplay concert here in L. A. And this is a great example of what noise is when you zoom into any photo you can really see what noises seal these little dots. That's what the noise is, and you see it everywhere. But it, especially as a parent in the darker parts of an image. Even when I go to one of these other photos and zoom in, you can see all these little dots that's digital noise. Another thing you'll notice, though, is the way you reduce noise and Mac photos is different for raw images and compressed images. Raw images, air taken with more professional cameras, and it's a bigger file size, but it gives you more control over things like noise reduction, and you can see here we have three sliders luminous noise, color, noise and detail. This helps you fooling Tune how you reduce noise in your photos, whereas for a compressed image like this, J Peg shot with an iPhone, you only have one slider. Also note that depending on what kind of camera you use and the lighting situation, you might get more or less noise. When you're shooting in a darker location, you typically get more noise because your camera is trying to compensate for the darkness and it digitally enhances or digitally bright ends your image so it's better exposed. But in return, you get that digital noise. So let's zoom in here to this photo, and I can show you what's happening when we increase the noise reduction slider. So if I take this lighter and dry all the way to the right, you can see that those little dots, that little noise, it becomes a little bit more blurred, a little less defined. And so if I click the before and after, you can really see that it gets rid of that. Digital noise is not perfect, but it does a pretty decent job, especially when zoomed out. You don't really notice it that much, so all you have to do is increase or decrease this slider. Now, how about when you use a raw image? So let's go toe my little cat image. And I like using this one because it's a little bit darker so we can see a little bit more of that noise. So if we zoom in here first, we noticed that we have luminous color and detail and that the color noises while it's at zero. If we take this all the way to the left negative one, you can see that Mac photos is already getting rid of some of the color noise. The color noise are these little red and green and blue dots. Again, if I zoom in here really close, you can see that this entire image is really made up of all of these little pixels. And you see these red and green and blue dots, especially in the dark parts of the image that make up this photo. So Mac photos already add some noise reduction so you can see going from negative 120 We get rid of some of that color, but we're left with still some de saturated black and white noise. And that's the luminous noise by increasing luminous. Always, we can get rid of that, and you can see that I just did that right there, showing the before and after we can see all that looks like grain. It's removed. Detail will help you bring back some of the detail lost when doing noise reduction. When you do noise reduction, you can see that things get a little bit blurry. A little washed out kind of looks like a watercolor painting. And by increasing the detail slider, you can bring back some of that sharpness and details of the lines and every aspect of your image. You can really see that in the hair of the cat right here with zero detail or increasing the detail. You get a little bit more contrast, and those individual hairs are a little bit more pronounced. So it's really a balance of playing around with these different sliders. Mac photos as a decent job, automatically reducing noise with the color noise slider. But you have the option to increase that with increasing luminous color and then preserving the detail with the detail slider. So that's the noise reduction. I hope it all makes sense and we'll see you in another lesson. 27. Sharpening: in this lesson, we're going to go over the sharpen adjustment. Sharpening does just that. It tries to make your photo sharper, so edges of things will be more defined. It's not going to make an out of focus photo in focus, but for those places where it's just a little bit soft, it can make it look a tiny bit more in focus. So the first slider underneath sharpen is intensity. That's basically how sharp do you want it to be. And the way the intensity works is it sees the edges of things and let me zoom in here to our cat photo and up in her hair. Up here, you can really see what happens when I bring up the intensity. I bring this all the way up. It's really kind of subtle, but when I do the beat before and after, the edges of some of her hair become a little bit more defined, and so it finds edges of things, and it makes the contrast between the color of one part to the next part, a little bit more to find so that white of our hair becomes more defined than the background color of her year edges will affect how much next to the edge is affected. So with a bigger edge, Maura's affected, and you can really see what that's doing. When I increased the edges, it becomes a lot more defined. See how everything's a little bit soft here. And then when I increased that it becomes a little bit more defined before, after before, after and then fall off is kind of how the edges blends in together, so decreasing the fall off softens the effect of the sharpening, while increasing it makes it more intense. So if you want to make everything as sharp as possible, increase all of these to the max. And if I zoom out, you might be able to tell even it's very subtle when you zoom out, it really depends on what photo you're working with, but with the cats for its kind of the best way to see. So it's a very subtle tool. It's a way to see a little bit more details in images like this of landscapes or even of this, with fish increasing, the intensity and the edges, and the fall off can make the colors and the different parts of efficient body become a little bit more apparent. I would stay away from doing too much sharpening with portrait's of people, as I've talked about before. Usually, I like to make people skin a little bit softer, so you're not seeing as much detail that tends will make it look a little bit better. So those are just a cool couple tips when working with a sharpening tool. If you have any questions, let me know, but otherwise you can play around with it and see how it works yourself. 28. Adding a Vignette: If there's one way for you to make your photos pop a little bit more, that's with a vignette, and that's the last adjustment I'm going to show you. So you have your first slider, which is thes strength. Slider. Dragging to the left will create a white vignette dragging to the right wolf. Create a dark vignette and you can see with this portrait. And the reason why you would use a vignette is to draw the attention of your viewer to what's in the middle of the vignette. That's how it works. And so usually with porch its I will add a bit of a vignette. I'm gonna go to the extreme just so you can see how this works. So that's the strength. And then the radius is how big a vignette is. Going to the left will decrease it going to the right. You can see it really shrinks down, so that's more of a preference. Let me go all the way to one point. Oh, so you can see what softness does that blends or feathers live in yet a little bit more. It makes it a little bit softer. So here, if I go from one end to the next. You can see that it makes it pretty soft if you want it as hard as it can go with Mak photos, just drag it all the way to the left. Now that's a little bit extreme for this portrait. Probably what I would do. Let me reset everything. I would probably at a bit of a vignette, maybe to like 0.5, increase the softness quite a bit and then maybe decrease the radius just a little bit. Now we can see that before and after, before and after. It's a really subtle thing, but it does draw the attention in a little bit. I would just be careful about using vignettes all of the time, especially for things like landscapes where you have skies. Sometimes when you increase the strength of a vignette with the sky, it just looks completely fake. Which, of course that's what I've been yet is. It's a fake thing that you're applying, but actually in photography with some lenses. They create sort of this natural vignette look depending on the type of lens, and so that's where this comes from. And so when you have a single subject in the center of your frame. I definitely think even yet can help. But just be careful with it. Shouldn't be a crutch that you use every single time toe Adam and yet to make it look cool . I know that I used to do that, but now I look at those photos and I say, wow, feel you were going through a real vignette style back then. And I wish I was a little bit more careful with it. Anyways, that's how you use the vignette tool. And as always, with all of these tools, you can use the auto button just to have it automatically create some sort of effect. And you could always start from there and then make your adjustments based off of how you like the auto adjustments yourself. Thank you so much for watching these adjustment lessons. I hope that going through them one at a time really helped you understand not just how to use them, but what you should be doing with them. What? How you should be using them in future lessons. We're going to go through some complete edit, so I'm gonna walk you through from start to finish how I would edit some of these photos down here rather than just playing around with the sliders like I have meant in these past lessons. Thank you so much for watching and have a great day. 29. Editing a Live Photo: in this lesson. I want to walk you through how you can add it. Live photos, live photos are the ones where with your iPhone, you can take a photo, and it actually takes a little video clip for a couple seconds when you press the shutter button to take the photo so you can actually go to your life. Photos under media types Remember that. And if you go to a life photo and you hover over the live button up here in the top left, you can actually play through this little video clip, which is actually a photo slash video. I haven't included any for you to practice with in this class because you're not able to easily export a live photo and transfer it. It has to be imported directly from the phone, but I wanted to show you what you can do. So go out and take a life voter yourself with an iPhone if you have one. Otherwise, it doesn't really apply to you, but you can still check it out. And then when you open up that live photo and then click the edit button, you'll notice that you have a few options down here. One is that you can actually turn on or off the live mode. You can also turn on or off the sound from this life photo you can scrub through to find the right frame from this photo. And then, if you want, you can actually export this frame, which I'm gonna show you how to export your photos in an upcoming lesson. But it basically exports this exact frame, which is kind of cool. And then you have these different live vote options with this drop down. One is your standard live mode. If you hover over again and click over your image, it will play through, and there's just place through your video ones. One is a loop where it will continue toe play through your photo, one after the other, and it actually tries to stabilize it so that if you have a better image, it will just continuously loop through it. And so here is an example where I have this faucet running. If I just play a loop, it just looks as if it's a continuously going video clip, so that works well for video clips of motion that's just continuous. The next option is Bounce, which plays through the video once, and then reverses, goes forward and then bounces, and so that can be kind of fun. And then, lastly, is long exposure, which takes all of the images and blends them together. So for something like this, it doesn't look that good. But if you're taking photos of a moving stream, moving water kind of like this, the long exposure will blend them together, and it will actually create a smooth water feature. So have you ever seen a long exposure photo like this of a waterfall with water streaming by? That's how it's taken with a traditional camera setting a long exposure. But you can also do something very similar, right with your iPhone. You can also get light streak photos like this of lights moving by wishes perfect on a freeway overpass like this one. So that's when I would use the long exposure option. I wouldn't do it for a photo like this, where you know it's a person, and it all blended together. It doesn't look that great. And then, of course, with all of these different options, you still have your adjustments over here. So you can play around with lighting the color, the saturation, white balance, everything over here, just like you would a normal photo. So that's basically the life photo editing options. Play around with those go out and have fun shooting some life photos. If you have an iPhone, if you don't have an iPhone, ah apologizes maybe a feature they'll bring to other phones in the future to thanks so much for watching, and we'll see in another lesson. 30. Save Photos as Files: Welcome to this new section of the Mac photos course. It's all about exporting and saving your photos in a variety of ways. So in this lesson, we're talking about how you can export your photos as files, which can be used anywhere you consume. Send them to people you can post them online. You could put them on your phone and put them as a desktop backdrop or really, whatever you want to do. You could then go print them A lot of times. This is what I like to do. I export as a file. So the easiest way, which is a really cool way to do it with Mac photos, is a simple dragon drop. First, I have made this a little bit smaller so I can see my desktop and I'm going to right click and create new folder. I'll call this photo exports. Now all I have to do is simply drag and drop these photos into that folder, and it exports. So if I click and drag this one that we did some basic edits on into this folder. Now, if I open this image we have are exported version, it saves it as a J Peg image, which is a high quality, compressed file size. It saves as the original dimensions. So for this pictures 34 56 by 51 84 which is awesome, and that's a quick way to export a photo again, Let me just show you can do multiple photos. Only select a couple of these that we've played around with. Drag them into this folder. You can see that takes a couple seconds to export, but is pretty fast. And these have this all the changes we made while editing. So that's a really fun and quick way to export. If you want, you could also export them directly into another application. So I have created this new note using the Mac notes app. And if I want, I can just drag and drop this right into a new note. And there you have it, and this is the same if you're using Mac Male or all kinds of other applications on a Mac, so that's the easiest way to export a photo. But what if you want to have a few more options for how you save? Well, you can go up to the file save menu. Let me take this photo right here. Could have file. Then you have the export menu. Here, you see two options export one photo or export unmodified original for one photo. If I click this second option, this is actually saving the original file. Unedited raw. However, you imported it into Mac photos, you have a couple different options such as the file naming, so you can change the name to either just the file name. It could be a specific tattle that you want to give it, or you can make it sequential, which is good. If you have multiple photos that you're exporting at the same time, Sub folder format will export it into a sub folder that you can create rather than just the folder that is selected, which is good if you want to organize. So if I just click, Export is going to ask me where I want to export it. So let me just put it on my desktop under the photo exports and then click export originals . Okay, it's been exported. Let me open that up and you can see here that it's a CR two file and if I open this up. It's unedited, which is pretty cool. You can also see that I exported the ex MP farm that was under the menu when I clicked. File export export unmodified. And that includes all of the metadata, the keywords, the things that we've added to this file. So if we take it, we send it to someone with this ex MP file. So if we send both the landscape and ex MP file, we put on another computer, it will have all the information that we've added or updated, which is pretty cool. So that's how you export any of these photos in the original format, which is great. But what if we want to export this final product? So let me open this one up. You can click it. You don't have to have it open, but if you have open, you can click file export expert, one photo or shift Command E. Here you have all of your options for exporting starting from the top of the kind. So typically, J Peg is great if you're posting online. It's a compressed format, but high quality tiff is more of a raw, large file format. If you're doing printing or graphic design. Depending on what app you're using, you might need to use a tiff, and PNG is a little bit higher of equality. Some applications, like PNG's more than J pegs, but for most uses, even for printing, you'll want do a J peg down below. You have your quality so you can choose low, medium, higher maximum. Typically, I like to leave it at maximum unless you are trying to compress it for some reason. For example, if you're posting it online, you might be able to get away with a medium quality export because you don't need it to be the max, which saves file space, especially when putting online for color profile. Typically, you'll just leave it as most compatible. These will create a color profile so that it looks good, depending on what type of monitor you you're using for 99.9% of us, you're just gonna leave it as most compatible. If there is an instance where they're asking for Oh, you need s RGB or you need Adobe RGB. Then this is where you get to that menu. Then you have size, which is very cool, and this is how you would really customize it, which is important again if you're putting it online. If you're putting on your own website, you might not want it to be super large, so you can set your max with in pixels. Or you could set your max height in pixels or you get set specific dimensions in pixels. So typically, you would want to just set your max with knowing that my photo on my Web site needs to be 500 pixels wide. You would just set 500 pixels as you're with, and then it will match the height, depending on what the aspect ratio is. If it's a 2 to 1 ratio than the height would be to 50 down below, you have the info that's included, such as title keywords and description and location information. This is just metadata that you want to include, depending on what app you're using. The export for whether you're uploading on a site that uses metadata. You can include this or not, and lastly, you have your file name just like we saw before. You can just use the file name that you chose. Use a title or sequential, which is great when exporting multiple, and you can also create a sub folder. So only turn both of those on for our used title and moment name, Click Export. We're going to put it on our desktop on their photo exports, Click Export, and now you can see that it's exported into this folder. But it's exported into a sub folder based off of the moment that this photo was in. The moment was this day, July 19th 2016 and the name was Landscape. If we had changed the name here under info, which you can get to, like right clicking and getting info and changing the name, it would have saved it as that title or clicking the information button up here. So that's how you export as a file. If you want, you can export multiple at once. Just select them by command, clicking the ones you want to export or two. It's like the Siri's Click one and then shift. Click the last one in the series to select all of those. Or you can just click and drag over the ones you want toe export as well. So those are the basic ways how you export photos and the next lessons we're going to export animated GIFs or Jif. However, you would like to pronounce that with your life photos and doing other types of sharing and saving from Mac photos. 31. Save Live Photos as GIFs or Still Images: In this lesson, you'll learn how to export a live photo as an animated GIF. So here's the photo that I'm going to export as an animated GIF. Let me quickly change it to be the bounce mode, because I think that would be cool. Click done. And then when you're in the live photo view or the full view and go up to file export, you have this export gift option. So selecting that and then just choosing where you want to export it can export. Now this is an exported as an animated GIF, and you can see if I press the space bar. It opens that animated GIF, and you can upload this online as a normal photo and it will play online like this. Pretty cool, right? What if we want to export this as a still image and for a specific frame will go into your live photo? So let's go in here, find the frame, and we've we find the frame we want. We're just going to click make key photo that puts this point right there. Now we're done with this photo, and it saves that as the key moment, and we can go up to file export export one photo just like we have done before. And then choose your export settings. Click Export. Choose the folder that you want to save it in. And this one has been saved in another sub folder for the moment, Angeles National Forest, Mount Baldy. And now we have this saved J peg of this single moment. So that's how you export a single frame from a live photo. Thanks so much for watching. If you have any questions about any of this, let me know. Otherwise, we'll see him in another lesson. 32. Share Photos Online: in this lesson, I'll show you how to export or share your photos online instantly. Right from Mac photos, Just click the image or images you want to share, so I'll just click this one of the mountains and Switzerland, then go up to file share. Or just click this button up here at the box with the little arrow pointing up, and you have all the different options for sharing your photos. These work in different ways. If you share two notes that will just open up a new note with that photo in it can you can create a new note If you want to share it another way, you can do that as well. Air Job Pulls Share it to any Mac device phones or computers that are air dropped in the abled that are close by. So it's a quick way to send an edit to your phone. For example, if you want to then post instagram or something like that. iCloud photo sharing will send it to your iCloud account set as your desktop picture. And there's also more options, depending on what APS you have that you can connect with Mac photos to connect it with Twitter or Facebook. First, what you have to do is go into your system preferences again. That's up to your Apple menu and then system press preferences and then go into Internet accounts. Here you click on Twitter or Facebook, and then you connect your account by signing in. So I've already done this with Twitter, so I'll show you. If I want to share this photo to Twitter, I can just select it. It's like the share button, but a Twitter. And now you can posted to Twitter, so play around with the sharing options. It's a great way to more efficiently share photos online. If you're always doing something like sharing it to Facebook or Flickr or something like that, thanks so much for watching and let me know if you have any questions. 33. Create a Slideshow: in this lesson, I'm going to show you how you can play and create slide shows, either. If you want to just play it from Mac photos and you're doing the presentation with your Mac computer or tablet, and you just want to pick some photos to play. Or you can export something that you could either upload online, you could send to someone you could do all kinds of things with it. So to create or just have a slide show playing from selected photos, all you really have to do is go to any selection of photos. It could be an album. It could be under a memory, a moment, a collection, a year. All you have to do is go to that selection and then up here, click slideshow or right click the option over here and choose play slideshow. So if I do that, it's going to ask me for a couple options. One is the theme, which is how the slideshow works. You have Ken Burns, which is a typical sort of theme, where it photos are zooming in and zooming out, and you can go through some of these and you can see how they work, origami will unfold your photos in a cool way. Reflections will add some reflection to your photos, and they all have different music attached as well. You can change the music by choosing the music tab up here, going through the theme songs, which each sort of theme has a different song with it. Or going to your iTunes music and choosing an iTunes song that you have. And then, once you're happy with your settings, all you have to do is click play slideshow, and it will open up full screen player slide show. It defaults to the text of the album name or the collection or whatever it is that you're selecting photos from, and you can see that I will just continue to play, and it will continue the loop using all of the photos from this album. If you want us like specific photos to just having a slide show, just select them so you can shift, click or command, click and then choose slideshow. And if we play through this slide show, we'll notice that it just loops through the's three photos over and over and over so you can select the specific photos. You want to play in a slide show that way as well. That's just for playing a slide show right from Mac photos, which is super fast and super easy. What if you want to create a slide show that you can save for playing later or export next my projects, You can click the plus button and choose slideshow, or you can go up to file, create slideshow. Name your slideshow. So I'm going to call this Mac photos online course, and then it appears over here under my projects. And if you don't see that, just dropped down the My Projects menu. Now we have to add photos tooth, this slideshow that's easily done by just selecting the photos. You can choose all of them or some of them in dragging them into this slide show so I can take them from this single folder or album. Or I could go to another album and add photos as well from multiple places. Once you click on your slide show in the projects, it opens up the slideshow editor, and you can see all of the different slides down in this timeline down here, which gives you numbers which is makes it easy toe know which slide is which, and you can add and edit text. So I'm gonna walk you through this whole interface. But first you'll notice that for this first slide, there's this little text icon, and there's text on this slide for this slide, which you can get to just by clicking the photo. There's no text to edit the text. Just click the text on the slide and type in what you want. If you want to change the font or size, just select your text grope toe edit. Go to find choose show fonts and now you have all your font choices. Where we can select are fun. Change it to whatever we want. Change the size if we want it bigger or smaller. If you want to make a bold underlying, depending on the font choice, you have colors by clicking the color button. Change our colored something funky, something cool. Then click off to see where what it looks like. The one thing that you can do is move the tax sodas kind of locked to this position right here. Say you want to delete this text or add text one of the side to delete. Just right. Click the text icon for that slide and choose delete text toe. Add text. Go to the slide that doesn't have text and click this little plus button in the bottom corner and choose add text. So now you have your default text added and animals called us underwater photo and this, but it also allows you to add photos. So say you click this button. Choose add photos. Now it brings up all of your photos. You can choose all items favorites selected and then choose the photos that you want to add . So say I picked find one. There's me being silly again. Let's choose this Christmas photo shoes ad, and it adds it right in between where we were selected before. Between the photos where we were working on to delete it, we can just right click and choose delete slot slide, and that's how you add photos or text moving around. You see this little button right here? This is the loop button. So if you play through this, which you could play by pressing the play button right here, or preview button right here, which previews it right within the editing screen with the loop option on, it's going to loop through all the photos, just kind of repeat over and over for the song length or without it selected. It will just play through the photos once. Then you have your three options right here you have your duration, music and themes. We've already seen the themes. These are the different ways that the fades between photos works, so you can just choose whatever you like for music at defaults to the theme music. Or you can choose something from your music library and then with duration, you have different settings. One is to fit to music, which means that your plate slideshow will play for as long as the music. So if you have it looped, it will just continue to loop, and each slide will play for I think five seconds is the standard, and we'll loop until the music ends. Or if it's not looped, each slide will play, but for a longer time, and it will fit the music. You can see the length of the song and the number of slides up here just for reference. If you have a custom length that you want to play the slideshow for. Just select this custom button, and then you can make it faster or slower just by sliding left or right. Say you want to make one slide play longer than the other. Maybe it's a special slide. Maybe you're doing a slideshow. You're talking about it and you time everything out during a presentation or something like that. You can check this button right here for place, selected four, and then it has the seconds, and you could make it longer or shorter. And that's going to be for that specific slide. This photo right here will scale the photos to fit the screen. So for if some reason your photos were really small, it will make sure that they blow up to make sure they're the same size as your screen. So you don't have some that are really big and some that are really small. So that's the duration menu. Some of these themes also have options for editing how the slideshow looks, For example, with the Ken Burns theme, we have this little button down here. If you click that button, this is how you position your photo at the beginning and end. And that's how it adds that animation so you can click the start point right here, which is this button right here. The in point and then set Where you're in point is by dragging your photo up or down, or you can zoom in her out by zooming in with this slider. So say we want the photo to zoom out a little bit. We can zoom in, make sure we have our position and then click the out point. And then we would want to zoom out all the way, maybe zoom, click and drag up or dragged photo down. Actually, so we're kind of panning up. And now if we preview this, we're zooming out. From that end point, we could make it even more dramatic so you can see Let's put the in point zoom in something like that. Now it's preview, so it starts from that and then zooms out, so you have to set your in point and outpoint. So those are some options, depending on the theme you're working with. Once you're happy editing your slide show, you can export it by clicking this export button up here in the top right corner or going to the file export slideshow menu, so click export and now you can choose what you want to save it. As the title it is called This Mac Photos slide show. You can choose where you want to save it. I'll just save it to my desktop. You can add tags if you want, and then format. I would typically encourage you toe expert at the highest definition possible, especially for online play back. But if you're trying to save room, or if you're screening it with a projector or something that doesn't even show at 10 80 p, then you might want to use a lower definition. You can also check this button to make sure that it automatically sends to iTunes or not, and then just click save. It's going to export your slideshow and save it as a movie file. Once the exports, you can find it wherever you saved it, so it saves as an M four V file, and you can play it on your Mac by pressing the space bar or double click it to open it up in quick time and it plays through, and this is a movie file that you can put on YouTube. Put on Facebook, put wherever or just play it from, Ah, hard disk or a thumb drive or your computer. So that's the slide show options in Mac photos. I hope you enjoyed this lesson, and if you have any questions, let me know. Otherwise, we'll see you in another lesson. 34. Printing Photos: Here's how you can print photos right from Mac Photos on your own computer. Select the photo or photos you want to print. Go to file, print or just command P. This brings up the print dialog window. You have all your printer options over on the right hand side, such as choosing the printer that you want to use. The quality of your print is going to change depending on what kind of printer you have. Of course, it's going to look a lot better if you have an actual photo printer. You can change the size of the paper with the second option sitting and choose all of your different sizes. And they have a lot of standard print sizes. If you do have a printer, that concussed print on custom pages, you have the paper quality. So photo paper or just plain paper. And it's also the quality of the print fast draft, black and white, etcetera. And then you have a different options for how you want the image to show up on the paper, and then you have your different options for how you want your print to show up on the paper. Now this is different than the actual paper size. This is the size of the print, So if you just want to fit the photo as large as possible on the printer, choose fit. If you want to fill it with as little border as possible, choose Phil. But depending on your printer and the margin settings you have some printers can print all the way to the edges most of the times of your printing at home, you will have to do a little bit of trimming of hedges, especially if you don't want a white border. You can choose a custom size where you just put in the size and inches down here. Or you can choose if you want in centimeters millimeters etcetera, or choose in a custom aspect ratio. And then you have your other big options, like a buy 10 5 by seven or four by six, which are standard. If you want to do a contact sheet, this is typical. If you want to print out a bunch of photos or have a sheet with a bunch of photos, and that's good if you are a professional photographer and you're showing your client bunch of photos and they have to pick which one they want rather than sending them in a bunch of individual files or prince one per page. You put them all on one page, and I'll show you how to do that with multiple photos. Let me cancel this and let's make a contact sheet with all of these photos, so I select all and then command P for printing. Now, with the contact sheet selected, you can see how they appear. A lot of all the photos sort of lined up in a grid. You can change the size by changing the columns, so if you want all of them on one page, you just have to make sure you have the columns at the right with you just have to make sure you have the right amount of columns as well as the right amount of margin. So let's put these on two pages. Something like that. A little bit more margin. You also have this captions button for the contact sheet, which allows you toe add information like the title. The description if you have a description, the file name, the camera, the shutter speed, all these different things. If you want them on the contact sheet, you don't have it labeled. If you want the word or the title toe, have the word title next to it. Or if you wanted to be a little bit smaller and just look a little bit neater, you can choose the condensed option. So say you just want the title of the photo file. Select. Okay, And then for any print, whether it's a contact sheet or a single print, press the print button. This brings up your other print dialog box, So here again you can change. Your printer is you have different settings that you didn't show. Choose over here. You can change that. You can create multiple copies. You can choose single pages to print or a range of pages to print. If you have a lot, you can preview what it looks like one last time. And when you're happy, just click the print button. If you want to save this as a PDF, which a lot of people like doing to send digitally rather than putting out click this pdf drop down button and choose save as pdf. It was called This photo contact sheet. You can choose where you want it. Add title author subject and keywords if you want as metadata. And now on my desktop I have my photo contact sheet that I've opened by double clicking and open in preview, and we have this. PDF. You can save contact sheets this way or really any other type of print project. Cool. So that's the print options, right? From Mac photos. If you have questions, let me know. Otherwise, we'll see you in another lesson. 35. Order Prints Right from your Mac: Did you know that Apple has a printing service that you can use right from Mac photos? All you have to do is select the photos that you want. Create a print project in. Within just a few days, these photos will appear on your doorstep, printed like the good old days. So choose an individual photo or multiple photos, right, click and choose. Create Prince. What? Go to file. Create Prince. When you do that, you get your different options for your prints. From auto size to traditional square and poster, you have your prices down below if you're pretty, not Panorama is. For example, you can choose the height so five inches or eight inches, and then it will print out up to 36 inches long, which is really cool. And the prints are actually really cheap. 12 cents per standard, four by six photo. That's actually a really good price. You can even do large prints over here with the poster prints. You're gonna square prints, which for me I like editing my photos as squares first and then choosing this print as a square rather than just putting it as a square right now, from a photo that's not already edited as a square. So I'll just do auto size and all say, five inches. I've only chosen one, but if you chose multiple multiple would show up here, you can choose to have a glossy finish or not. So if you uncheck this, it will have more of a matte finish. You have some print options If you select the photos and click this button up here, you have filters that you can add. So for me, I've edited my photo already, so I don't want to add any filters. But if you haven't edited your photo and you want to just add a quick filter, you can do that. You can also zoom and crop. You can also choose to print multiple copies with this option down here, it will keep track of the price of your prints up here, and then you just click the order prints button. You have to add a shipping address and then sign up with whatever sort of payment options. But all you have to do is click. Add shipping address type in your shipping and dress, click place order and then you will get your prints in the mail in just a short amount of time. Apple has printing services set up all over the country in the world, so they typically shouldn't take that long to get to you. I know that some locations aren't served by this. So depending on where you are, you might not have this service available to you. But try it out. It's only a few bucks to get actual prints that you can put on your wall. And after knowing how to add it with Mac photos, I hope you are excited about editing your photos. I hope that you are thinking that wow, these air photos that I can now take and put on my wall and not just store on a hard drive that will never look at. That's what photography is all about. Hopefully, with this course, I've helped you experience that a little bit. So print out your photos and then take a photo of them and share it with me on Facebook or Social media or within the class. I would love to see that you are excited about photography putting your photos on the wall . So that's the print option right from Mac photos. Thanks for watching and we'll see you in another lesson. 36. Create a Calendar: in this lesson, I'm going to show you how to create a calendar from photos and order that right from Mac photos. And in the next couple of lessons, we're going to learn about creating cards and books, which is a very similar process, kind of. Once you understand how it works, you'll understand how to edit and things like that. But I'll walk it through how to do each one for those of you that need a little extra help . So to create a calendar, you can either go straight to the my projects option. Over here, click the plus Button and Shoes calendar or from the file menu. Go to file. Create calendar. Choose the calendar option you want. Do you want it? 12 months. Do you want it longer? You can choose when you wanted to start, so I'm recording this before January 2018. So I want a counter for the upcoming year and then just click Continue. You can choose your different themes, so there's different themes here that you can use. So I like this sort of black dark theme that looks good for photography. Selected. Double click it or just click the Create counter button up here. What it did was already create a counter with the photos from the folder or the album that I was on. If I had selected multiple photos it would have on Lee created a calendar from those photos . Or another thing I can do is now I have this calendar down here, which I can rename, so I know what I'm working with. Calendar. I just right clicked it and shows renamed To Do That or what I can do is find other photos . So I take some of these from my photo walk, and I dragged them into the calendar. Now I go to my counter, and I have these photos as options to put in my calendar. So how do you do that? Well, you can edit any individual page of your calendar by double clicking it toe open up. If there's text on the slider that calendar page, you can click in here and put in Entitle. You also have options for each page, so click this options but into choose your layout options. So if I want the title in the bottom or the title on the right and can do that depending on what the photo looks like and what photo I'm going to use. I can also change the color. If I click this drop down arrow and choose the color for that text block, you'll get more options in that menu, depending on the calendar theme you choose. You can also get to the options menu by clicking this options. But in right here, you can also get back to your main calendar options or theme. By going up here to this button, choosing when you want your calendars start, you can show national holidays for particular countries or not, which I think is awesome. You can show birthdays from contacts, so if you have that information in the Mac contacts up, it will add that show your US holidays include the apple logo or not, or change the theme from this menu. You can scroll through all of the different months by just clicking the buttons to the right or to the left to swap a photo in the calendar. Just choose one of the ones that you've added to your photo trade down here and drag it over the photo block up here, and it will swap it out now. That photo that I just replaced was already on this page, which is the January option. But say I swapped this one out, so let me put this photo into that block. What happens now is this photo that I swapped out appears down here because it's now an unused photo or if I want to show my place Photos. Aiken, click this drop down menu and it shows all the photos that I've used already. But typically, you only want to use your photos once, so leave it on the unused photos. If you want to add photos to the trade down here, you can also click this add photos button and then choose any photos here that you want ad and click. Add. So now we have more options. You'll notice that with this page we have this photo, and it has this little red warning symbol. Click that and you'll see that the full resolution of this photo cannot be fine found, and so you might want to choose a separate photo, so I'll just swap it with one of these other ones. You can also change the layout of the photos by clicking the options button, and then you have your layout options up here for a one photo page, two photo page. You know you can go up to, I think, seven photos. And so you can choose the one you like and then add the different photos that you want into these other frames, like so you can quickly add filters to photos by double clicking the photos. And it brings up this filters option, and she was a filter that you want. You could zoom and crop that way as well. To get back to the full view of the calendar, just click the my projects and then back into your calendar. If you have different pages that you want easily swap, you can just select the month, chooses a little button down here at the bottom with the three lines and drag to this place where you want to save it so you can easily rearrange the different months like so and then everything is automatically changed. So January is still his first month. It doesn't take January and move it to a later month, which, when it makes sense, even in this view, you can change the photos so you can take your photos from down there and drag it into the different frames up here. Once you're happy with your calendar settings, just click the buy calendar option. It will give you any warnings if you have not edited text or something like that. If you're happy, just click. Continue. And like we did with the ordering prints, you just add your shipping address, your payment options and then click place order. And that's how you create a calendar right within Mac photos. 37. Create a Book: Here's how you create a book right within Mac photos. Select the photos that you want to add to your book. You can always change this later. If you want to make any adjustments and then right click and choose create book. Or like all these other options, you have the button over here under my projects or in the file menu file Create book. Here you choose the type of book we have. Square Classic Soft Cover Square is great for those instagram Graham photos. Soft cover is a little bit less expensive, but it isn't as durable. And then your classic hardcover book. You can choose your size down here as well, so I'll just choose the 11 by 8.5 inches. You have your book themes here to just choose a theme that you like. So let's just pick this picture book option over here and now you have all of the pages of your books, similar to how we created our calendar. In the previous lesson, you can edit individual pages here. You can add photos, toe add photos. The easiest way that I have found is to go to the album or go to the library folder that you want. So exam, for example, I just goto the My Mac photos folder. Find my other photos that I want to add. Drag that into the Mac Photos course book, which I should also rename, So it's a little bit easier. Or you can click add photos. But when you do this, it takes you toe all items. And unless you have favorites or selected photos, which I've already actually selected and added, it's a little bit harder than just going to the folder and then dragging it into the project down here. From here, we can click and drag and add these photos to the different frames within the book pages or Aiken DoubleClick, Teoh. Bring these pages to full size and then from here, drag and at our photos to move the framing of the photo. We can click our photo and drag depending how, how big and the aspect ratio of your photo. You'll have more room to drag up or down when you select the photos you see of your filters up here. You can also zoom crop that way as well. With the text boxes, you can edit your text. Apple's book. You have options by clicking the options, but and you can change the background color, you can change the layout. She wouldn't change the layout, so you can really customize anything here. Scroll through your different pages so you have a full screen view of all of your different pages. Drag your photos into the frames. You can swap photos in the different frames, and when you swap photos out, the unused photos will appear down here in your tray. As long as you have the unused photos Options selected down here, Let me select a bunch of photos that I can add. So let me just select. I know these air kind of duplicates, but let me just select all these. Drag this into our book project. One thing you can do is an auto fill. So with all of these photos, if I choose the auto fill button, it will auto fill all of these different pages with the photos that were selected down here in the tray, which is a quick way to make your book. You can always start from there as a starting point and then go in and edit yourself. You can add pages. If you want, Just select where you want to add the page and click this plus page button. Click out of page. Or you can remove pages by selecting the page, clicking this button and choosing remove page or just selecting the page. Pressing the delete key on your keyboard and selecting continue after it gives you the warning message. Remember, just like with the calendar settings, you can go into any of these pages. Select the page, choose the page options or the layer options up here, change it from a two page layout or just change the layout. How it looks, depending on what you like, you can move around photos from within this views so I can just click and drag a photo to another frame, and it swaps those photos. If you click this book button up here, you can change the number of pages easily from here. You can choose to include an apple logo or not, and you can choose to show the page numbers or not, also changing the theme and form and size right from this menu as well. Once you've gone through your entire book and you're happy just click the buy button. Like always, you will include your shipping address, payment information and just complete the purchase process. If your book isn't finished like this one is not, it's going to warn you. So you want to make sure you add photos to all of your pages, added the text. To make sure it's customized to, however, you want it to look. That's how you create a book right from Mac photos. If you have any questions, let me know otherwise. Have fun creating new books with all of your beautiful photos. 38. Create a Card: You can create cards from your photos in Mac photos by selecting your photo right clicking and choosing. Create card. Then you have your card options. So you have your letter. Press your folded your flat, so flies more just like a postcard. So let me just choose that one. Choose select. You can choose your different themes. These are the featured themes, or you can choose a different theme up here, and there are more options. You can also choose whether you want it to be landscape or portrait. So the photo I chose is a portrait photo. So let's just choose one of these single frame. I like that. So just double click or select and then press create card up here, and it will create your card project. It will open up with your card options, and here's where you can edit your photo or your text so the text is easy. You dress click on the text and you can edit it. We miss you. You also have more options for each page of the card by clicking the options, but in he and choose if you want it just to be the photo or, depending on the theme of the card. You have more layout options, also the color of everything. So if you want the text to be a different color, to edit the different pages or parts of the card, you'll have your front, your back or your inside. And here you can edit the text. You also added the options here. If you want to make it a postcard, for example, you can do that. You can add it your photo by clicking it and dragging it around. Depending on the size double, click the photo to bring up more options to say, I want to zoom in a little bit Now I can move it around a bit more. And, of course, you have your filter options up here. If you haven't edited your photo and you want to do a quick at it to swap photos, all you have to do is go find the photo you want. Add it to the project. So again, let me rename this so we know what we're working with. Card. Now we have our photos down here in our trade that I can quickly swap out and move around once you're happy with the edited card. Just click buy card. You'll want to review your text course. It's not letting me, so I'll just type in really quick something else. Click by card. And now, just like the other projects at your shipping address, pain, the information, Click Place, order and it will be shipped to you shortly. That's how you can create cards quickly and easily and custom. Lee. Enough. That's a word, right? From Mac photos. 39. Editing a Portrait: Welcome to this new section of the Mac photos course. This section is all about diving a little bit deeper into editing photos. I've been using light room to edit photos professionally for a number of years, and I found that Mac photos does a really good job. Almost Justus. Good as light room. You can do it professionally, and I wanna walk through my typical workflow of editing a photo from scratch. So that's what I'm going to do in this section with a number of these photos, so they might take a little bit longer. But I know that some students and hopefully you will appreciate walking through the entire process. So first I'm going to edit this photo, this portrait of my buddy Caleb So selecting that photo, I'm going to go into the edit menu, and the first thing that I always do when I edit photos is crop them. And the reason I do that is because potentially I'm going to zoom in or crop into a photo, and that's going to get rid of parts of the photo that I don't need to worry about. For example, let me just go to another photo really quickly say I was going to edit this photo, but I was going to crop out. You know what? If I was going to do something crazy now, I wouldn't do this. But what if I was going to zoom in really close to these rocks or whatever? Well, if I did that, then I wouldn't have to worry about editing the sky up above. Now, I don't really like the way that this cop is. This isn't how it would edit this photo, but I guess the point is that you want to crop so that you're not worried about other parts of your image that might be under exposed might be overexposed or just might not look good . So for this one, I would first make sure that the aspect is on original. And then I would zoom in quite a bit so that his face is right around that upper third line following the rule of thirds. That's going to look a little bit better than having his head right at the top of the photos is something like this looks pretty good. And it does a pretty good job automatically rotating it. So the eyes are straight across and not tilted. So once I'm happy with that crop, I'm pretty happy with that. I don't mind cropping into his arms like that. Then let me go back to the adjust. The next thing that I do with photos is adjusting the white balance and then exposure. So first I'm going to go to the white balance. He does have this nice gray jacket on. So I'm going to use that with the neutral gray I picker. I drop her high, pick her. So I'm gonna select the eyedropper and then click the neutral gray that didn't work. And, you know, sometimes these things don't work, so you have to play around. So maybe what I'll do is choose the white and that kind of works. But I want to make some more adjustments. So let me dive into the temperature intent in at a little bit more magenta and maybe drop down the warmth a little bit. The temperature at a little bit more coolness. So that seems to look good to me. Now let's go into our light adjustments. The first thing I'm going to do is bring up the shadows. His face isn't that well, it because this was natural light. During the afternoon, the sun was going down. So it's not bright enough. So let's bring up the shadows, you know? So we don't get any of this darkness on the side of his face. Let's also bring up just the overall exposure just a little bit. But when I do that, we start to get these highlights on his face that are a little bit too bright. So I'm gonna bring it up like that. But then also bring down the highlights so we can already see that his face is just way more easy to see like this. It's really the star of the show. We don't want it to just kind of blend in with the background or with his jacket. We want it to stand out. So I like that a lot. And here I'm going to leave. The contrast as is because I'm going to add a little bit of contrast with the curves. So let me go to the curves good rgb and then just create a little s curve by bringing down the dark's and up the highlights Not crazy, unless I'm going for something a little, you know, intense. Just a little bit of an s curve. You can turn this honor off to see what that does it just as a little bit of pop. We don't want to make the dark too dark, though, because if we do that, we lose the information in his hair. Let me just gonna do that. I don't have to worry about red Eye, but let's dive into the retouching. Let's zoom in here. Go appear, See if there's anything we want to retouch a little bit. You know, Caleb has a couple pimples that we might want, you know, just go in and clean up. I try not to do this too much with my portrait because I think a lot of these things they're just, you know, beauty marks or scars or something that you don't necessarily have to get rid of. But for some people, depending on what they want and that's usually what I do, I ask clients what they want. Do they want these things removed or not? We just don't want it to be distracting from the viewer, you know? Say he doesn't like that Frankel on this forehead. Then we'll we'll remove it for him has totally find just something that we ask our clients what they want. That's looking pretty good while, well, we're zoomed in here. I'm going to go to the sharpen. I'm going to bring up the sharpening just a little bit. Doesn't do much with the intensity. Let's increase the edges and I'm actually just not going to do that. Sometimes I play around with the setting and I don't like it. And especially as I mentioned before with Portrait's, I don't like to add a lot of sharpening. Hopefully, the photo is perfectly sharp itself. Let's go to the color options and see what this does. Let's bring up the saturation just a little bit, just to give a little bit more color. Of course, you can also drop the saturation. If that's what you're going for. I don't want it to look, you know, abnormally, you can see if I go even just a little bit too high. It starts to look abnormal. I just want to add a little bit of colors. This will also depend on what settings you had on your camera. Sometimes your camera is shooting in a neutral or more of a raw setting that gives those sort of muted tones. Definition is something I stay away from with portrait's. You can see if I increase the definition ads. Like all his details, it kind of makes the photo look like an HDR photo, which is the kind of affect you do by layering multiple photos at different exposures, which looks cool for landscapes. But not really much for Portrait's. If I want him to stand out from the background a little bit more, what I might do is go into the selective color. She's my eye dropper. Choose this sort of yellow green back here and see what happens when I dropped the saturation, sometimes depending on skin tones. When I do that, it will drop a lot of the yellowish from skin tones, but we don't have too much yellow in his skin tone, so dropping that out actually looks pretty good. We can see the before and after so not much is happening, which with his skin, which is good, and I think that makes him stand out a little bit from that background is not distracting. Of course, that's up to you. If you want that noise reduction? Let's zoom in in here really quickly. We don't have too much noise, so I'm not going to do much is noise reduction. But lastly, I am going to out of. And yet this is a portrait, and I like adding vignettes to Portrait's. So let's go into starting a right around 0.5. Let's soften it up quite a bit. I like that soft. And then let's decrease the radius so we can turn off and on. You can see that it does help draw your attention in. When I do that, it's a little bit dark around, you know, the top of his head so I might come back into light. And sometimes, after making all these adjustments, things change depending on if you're adding curves or color adjustments. And so let's see what bringing down the Black Point does. That actually makes it brighter. If I go to an extreme, it creates this sort of flat look, which can be cool, just going to drop it just a little bit. And now I'm pretty happy with this portrait. If I turned the it from the before and after before and after looks pretty good at this point, a little bit cool, so I might go back into the white balance, had a little bit of warmth to it. Something like that. It's pretty good before and after before after. A lot of these things are very subtle adjustments, but all together, it does make this photo look a lot better. Let's go one last time up to the light settings. Bring up the brilliance, which automatically improves or increases the darks decreases the really bright highlights , brings up the blacks a little bit and does make a little bit better exposed. But I want to go too far. But something like that might look pretty good. Yeah, that looks good. Cool. So that is the before and after before after. I'm very happy with this portrait. That's how I would edit a portrait. Go ahead and practice with this portrait yourself and come up with something unique to your own style. Preference. Everything that I did is just that a preference. There's not really a right or wrong way to do photo editing at the end of the day. This is art, and you have that creative license to at it. How you want. Thanks so much for watching and we'll see you in another photo edit 40. Editing a Group Photo: welcome to another full editing session where I teach you not just how to use the tools, but how to use them to really create art. I've cut his great photo from camping Trip 2016. This was with a bunch of friends that we go on our annual camping trip, and this is a photo that I think a lot of you might run into. When you're out taking photos, you have this very bite bright background, their shadows. It's kind of hard to get everyone in the perfectly lit situation we have, you know, highlights on Monica's face here. Some of our faces air more in the shadows. And so a lot of what I'm going to do with this photo is playing with the exposure first, like always. I'm going to crop, though, because I have a lot of information around the edges that I don't necessarily need. So say I'm going to print this as an eight by 10 photo. I would choose the eight by 10 setting, and then I would move around, depending on how far I wanted copped in. Sometimes I like giving a lot of head room or that negative space above our heads, something like that. Rather than putting us right in the middle, it really depends on what you want. I think having more head room looks a little bit more natural. And then also our eyes are on that top third line, which I think looks a little bit more balanced. We just play with the rotation. Yeah, it looks like it's pretty level already. Now let's go back into our adjustments, go into our light settings first. Sometimes I do white balance first. Sometimes I do light adjustments. This time I'm just gonna go into my light adjustments. The highlights are way too bright, so let me take the highlights dropped down the highlights so you can see as I drop this down all the way, we're getting a lot of information back from what was in the background. The reason I get so much information with this photo is because I shot in the raw format, and when you shoot in the raw format, it takes all of that information in. Even if you don't see it with the original photo, it still has that information. If you're shooting in a J peg compressed format with your iPhone with a point and shoot camera, not in rock. You're not going to have that information, and you might not be able to bring down the highlights. Take be able to really see that background. So what I'm doing here is trying to create more of a flat image. And so what I'll do next is bring up the shadows so that we see our faces a little bit better. So bring up the shot. I was just a little bit. So what I do with these two sliders is try to get a very flat image and then I'll add contrast back in it. So maybe all bring down the exposure for everything. Or maybe I'll just increase the contrast here. But when I increase the contrast, what's happening is we're bringing down the darks and we're bringing up the highlights, and I don't want to make the highlights any brighter. But I do want to bring down the darks a little bit, but not the shadows. I want to bring down what's darker than the shadow, and that's the black point. Let me increase the black point to bring back that contrast a little bit and I think this looks a lot better then increasing the contrast, because now the highlights in the background get overblown. Still, just bring up the black point. Add some more contrast, but just to the dark parts of the image. Or I can go into either the levels or the curves and really pinpoint that Black point taking my black point on the left, dragging over and you can see this is the history, Graham. Typically, I want to see the lower part of this hill of the hissed, a gram touching the black part because there is some black in this image. We got the shirts here, and so I want to bring this in over here. Like so what happens when I do this, though, is, Do you notice something happening with the color? It's getting way saturated, and that's what happens when you add contrast to a photo. When you increase the contrast, it also increases the saturation. When you decrease contrast, it makes it less saturated. And so what I want to do now is go back into my color settings and decrease that saturation , especially because this is a picture of people. All of that color looks a little unnatural, so I'm gonna bring this down back down. So let's just see the before after before, after it's getting a lot better, we could even push down the overall exposure quite a bit. See, now we're getting that blue in the sky, which I really like. But when we do that, we want to bring up the shadows even more. Or we can go to our luminess levels and really just pinpoint what we want to bring up with the Dark's or using this mids to bring up the mids. Sometimes they can start to look a little funky, depending on how much you are editing the highlights and everything before, After before. After we're looking pretty good, I can also go in. And if I want more of that color in the sky without really playing with the exposure of it , we can go into the selective color. We can choose that sky color, bring up the saturation of the sky, works a little bit. Okay, so let me get a little bit organized. Let's close these down. Okay, so it's looking pretty good. It's looking a little bit awkward, though. I think I push it a little bit too hard with the highlights bringing them down. So let me bring back the exposure up just a little bit. I don't want it to look like unnatural. That's that's one thing I don't want. Let's zoom in here and see how sharp this image is. Its photo shot with the cannon 70 D Not the sharpest lens. I think it was a tended 18 millimeter lens. So a very wide angle. Let's go into our definition first and see how that works for group photos. If you're not, you know, up in close, adding a bit of definition. Might help. Or let's go into sharpen, increased the sharpening and increase the edges. And you can see here with this wider image, we get a lot more definition with increasing the edges compared to the portrait last time. So before without Scharping, after sharpening and I think that looks pretty good, see what the fall off does, like how it was about original before after. Now let's zoom out. So with group photos, I will add a little bit of sharpening with group photos. I will try a vignette, but a lot of times I don't like the vignettes with the group photos, because some of the people on the edges have that vignette applied and some don't. So I'm just gonna undo that and not included. Vignette for this photo. Lastly, one thing I didn't do was going toe white balance and see if we need to make any adjustments. Sometimes I'll just go in here and play with the slider without doing any sort of picking. Let's change to skin tone, then choose the skin tone that I want to use and really, depending on the skin tone, depending on if it's in the shadow or not, it will adjust what the white balance is. And so I actually liked choosing my face that's in the shadow, or maybe back here in the shadow, because we're all mostly in the shadow, and that creates a little bit of coolness, a little bit of blueness to our faces. And so I want to bring back that warmth by choosing the skin tone that is in the shadow. So I think that looks pretty good. So here you can see the complete before complete after everything is way better exposed In the edited version, the colors look a little bit better as well. Everything's a little bit sharper, which you can't really tell from zooming out. But when you zoom in, you can. I think this is a perfect photo print out to share online and to commemorate this fun trip that we had that year. Thank you so much for watching this lesson and we'll see you in another full editing session coming up next. 41. Editing a Creative Landscape Photo: in this lesson. I'm going to walk through editing this landscape ish type photo, and I want to get it a little bit creative because right now it's a little bit bland. The sky is so muted with the blue tones, I want to add a lot of color and vibrancy to it. The first thing, like always is I'm going to crop. And with this one, the decision I want to make is Do I want a crop out this little part on left hand side the land that we see It might look a little bit cleaner if it is not cropped. So of course, let me get my original. I like having my original crop. And to get rid of all of that, let's goes something like this. I want to put that rule of thirds line up there and then also rotate just a little bit so that rising is is flat as possible, depending on your lens and depending on what the rising looks like, it might actually look like it bends a little bit, so you have to play around with that. I like that, but I wanna crop in just a little bit something like so maybe move it up. So we're not having these rocks as cramped up to the left hand side. Something that like that. Actually, I like that a lot. Okay, So I'm gonna work with that for now and go back to my adjustments. The first thing I'm going to do is play with the exposure. So going to my light for this one, I'm just going to play around with the overall light adjustment you can see as I do this. It Kenbrell up a lot of information on this rock. I'm gonna undo that, seeing that I'm gonna edit this manually. So I'm going to go into my shadows, bring up the shadows quite a bit. So that brings out that information on these rocks that I'm going to bring down the highlights because as I brought up the shadows, they did bring up some of the colors in the lake or the area around the lake in the sky. And I want to bring that back down. So something like that so I can play around with the colors and get really creative with that. So that's a pretty good starting point with our basic exposure. We can go into the levels or curves later. Two more make a pinpoint adjustment. Next, let's go into the color and I want to add a lot of color to this. So let me increase the saturation quite a bit. But when I do that, it gets really, really blue. So what I might do is increase the cast to kind of bring back that blue. It's casting a lot of that blue light coming from the reflections of the water, so bringing up the cast makes it look a little bit more natural. We're also bringing out that orange and the sunset that's happening behind these clouds. I always like to go and see the before and after to see what I'm doing, and I'm liking that a lot. Now. This is a very creative at. It might not be what you prefer, but for this one, I'm pretty excited about it. I want to go and see what happens with the blues. If I go into selective color, let's just like blue first and play with the saturation. It's not Yeah, bringing up the saturation does a lot and then play with the hue. Okay, we can get really creative with this. I don't think I want to do that. Let me actually go choose the color picker. Choose the specific blue that I want in the lake Bring up the saturation Maybe just play with the hue a little bit Maybe I wanted to just be a little bit deeper of a blue I don't want to make it purple, but just a little bit of a deeper of a blue before After four After Now, after doing all of this, I I think the color is a little bit over saturated. So let me go back up to our color setting and dropped down the saturation. I also feel like the darkness of the rocks is a little bit too dark. Still, I want to bring those up even more. Let's go into our levels goingto rgb then bring up the shadows this way. Maybe the mids a little bit too. And I don't want to lose the contrast in the sky. So not actually going to bring this to the right. I'm gonna bring this to the left. The highlights at a little bit more contrast by bringing down the white point actually, Let's bring up those highlights again. Like so. So that's without the levels. This is with the levels. So definitely bringing up some of that information in the highlights, losing a little bit of detail in the sky in the water so I might go back into the light, bring down the highlights just a bit. I definitely want to add a little bit of definition. You know that with landscapes, I like having you know, all those details of the rocks and the mosque that's growing on this rock. You can really see it, and I think that looks really cool, adding that definition, these rocks are pretty much perfectly sharpened. There's not really much noise in this photo, so I'm not going to do any noise reduction. I'll play around with it. Have been yet to see what it looks like, but I think like I mentioned before, I don't like adding vignette to landscapes much because it just looks kind like fake, just like having my bright big landscape without those dark edges of the vignette. So from here, we can see that before, after before, after I think this is looking awesome. The only thing that I might do is go through play with the color a little bit more, see what increasing the saturation looks like. If I go too crazy, we start to get some distortion in the background, which I don't like at all. Go into the white balance and now I can, you know, just play around with white balance and see, Does this do anything dropping down, making bluer, adding some more warmth to it? Do I like that? Do I want to add more green? More pinks, making a little bit more magenta? Think adding just a little bit of warmth to it feels nice to me. So here we have the before after before. After what a different photo. This is completely different. The cool thing now is I can decide. Oh, do want, want to go back to my crop and do I want to, you know, do an original crop and just make it bigger. Maybe having a little bit of that land over on the left hand side is good. I don't like having this big bump trees over there That's a seemed a little bit distracting , but bring back a little bit of that land looks pretty good. We're not, as you know, squished. I felt like before we're squished into those rocks. Now I feel like it looks a little bit better. So that's how I would do this creative edit for this landscape photo. Definitely don't use this as rules when you are editing your own landscape photos. Just used the ideas as a guide to be able to creatively edit your own photos. Thanks so much for watching, and I hope you enjoy this lesson. 42. Editing a Night Photo: welcome to another full photo editing session. This time I am editing this VSO light streak photo. We actually took this while we were shooting a night photography in landscape photography course out in Joshua Tree. This was set up right by our campground and you can see Orion's belt right here, this star constellation. And we used a flashlight to create these light streaks VSO and it was during a long exposure. And we also have a longer exposure class if you're interested in it. So the first thing that I would want to do to make this a little bit more dynamic is changed the crop, which is usually the first thing I do. And I want to make this sort of a wide crop, and I'm actually just going to do a free form crop for this one and crop it down like this so that the VSO is in that sort of intersection of the rule of third. But we just get this sort of nice, long panoramic style shot Cool. So I'm happy with that. I think the rotation is actually perfectly fine. How it was originally. So I'm gonna leave that sometimes I just like to play through the different filters just to get an idea or a sense of what not only Mac photos could do, but what could I dio? What I like about this one is I like the blue sky compared to the original, which is a little bit muted, a little purple, so that's definitely something I'm going to dio. But I don't like how the whole foreground is really blue. So we're gonna try to maybe pinpoint the sky and make that blue black and white doesn't doesn't really work for me in this photo, So let's go back to our adjustment tabs. So the first thing I'm going to do is play with the exposure. So let's just play around with bringing down the Black Point or the making it darker. So I actually bring up the black point. Some more becomes dark, and then I'm also going to bring up the highlights, so there's not much highlights in this, but it's just the VSO text here in the stars in the background. Let's see what these different sliders do. Just because we have these stars playing with the brightness might look cool or just the brilliance bringing up the brilliance does help bring out the stars, that's for sure. You can see a lot more stars when I bring up the brilliance, but it also makes the darks really bright, which I don't like the shadow. So let me bring down the shadows. So for this photo, I'm just adding a ton of contrast, which I kind of like. We can play around with the levels of the curves to pinpoint more what we want to bring down, because I would like the part behind the BSO text to be a little bit darker. Now let's play with the color, definitely adding a bit of saturation, I think will help just a little bit. I don't want to go too crazy because it gets a little bit distorted. Looks unnatural. So the next thing I'm really focused on is the background sky, and I'm going to use the selective color option to choose the night sky blue and change the hue to make it more blue. Boost that saturation. You could go crazy and make it pink if you want. Let's actually decrease the luminous, which helps to it bring down the colors in the background for that blue I notice when I increased the saturation. We're getting this distortion around the edges, so I don't want that at all. So I'm actually just going to bring down the saturation, actually, a little bit, so that's looking a little bit better. Let's to see the before after before. After that looks pretty good. Let's go back up to our main color. And I'm actually just gonna drop this saturation down and then go into a white balance. Make it the whole thing a little bit cooler. Yeah, that's looking pretty good. Maybe if we go into the temperature intent, we can drop the temperature and decrease the green a little bit by increasing the magenta. Now, that's looking pretty cool. Now what? This photo were just coming up with something a lot more stylized not, you know, necessarily completely natural. So that's looking pretty good. It might be a little bit to contrast it for me now that I see it. Sometimes I like to look away, walk away even and then come back to a photo. I'm realizing the black point is a little bit too high. It's a little too contrast. E. Maybe it's that brilliance that is really affecting it. Yeah. The brilliance, I think, was the thing that was kind of messing with me to bring down that brilliance helps. Okay, so after changing the colors, I come back to it and kind of revert my original decision. I remember before we increased the definition, which kind of helped bring out some more stars, make those a little bit more defined. So again, what I like doing is going cranking it up all the way and then dropping it back because I do see that it's affecting the VSO text right here. The light streaks and I I don't want to mess that up. Really? So let's just go somewhere like this on and off. Yeah, that definitely brings out some of those stars as well. See how this photo naturally hasn't been yet. And I think I talked about that in a previous lesson. Where some lenses, they just have this natural vignette ing. I didn't add a vignette at all. It just has this from the lens that wide lands that we used. So what I could do is kind of reverse the vignette by decreasing the strength of the vignette, adding a light vignette or I can make it even more dynamic, increasing. And this is one instance where I think I am going to have a vignette because I want the attention to be drawn into the VSO text. Also, you know, we have this beautiful Joshua tree over on the right hand side which balances out the photo . I think anyways, nice that I was looking pretty good. I might just dive here into the levels really quick, go into blue. This is another way we can play with the blues decrease Oh yeah, baby This is exactly where we want to go To decrease the dark's to add more blue And then with the highlights were going to increase. Let's see Yeah, I think the mids maybe two increase. Yes, so that kind of makes the foreground look less blue. But the background is still that nice Blue color. Nice, nice, nice, nice. This is this is the adjustment we're looking for. It has a little bit too much green now, so let's just degrees a little bit just slightly. We don't want it to look pink, but that is looking good. So before, after before after This is much, much more dynamic. Well, at least I think so. So I think I'm gonna leave it at that. I did a lot of changes to this photo, but hopefully you enjoyed watching me as I played around with Mac photos. And as you can see, this is what I do. I don't necessarily have a step by step process for every photo. A lot of times it's playing around seeing which setting works best for what I'm actually going for. And hopefully you enjoy listening to me. Thanks so much for watching and we'll see you in another lesson. 43. Editing a Cat Portrait: in this lesson. I'm going to edit this photo of my kitty, shall A and I'm going to do a complete walk through. I know I've played around with this at it in the past, but first I'm going to crop and I think like I did before, this is the perfect time to crop as a square. The space is kind of the perfect size to fit a square image and Teoh be posted online. I'm just going to crop in square like that. Put her center. This is a case where I'm not going to use the rule of thirds. Typically with the square photo, you don't really use the rule of thirds. You can. But ah, lot of times when I use square photos, I like having everything symmetrical, Just like so this is a typical case that you might have when you're photographing your past or your photographing family inside, where it's just a little bit too dark. And so this is the main thing I'm going to do. I'm going to bring up the exposures of this exposure slider. I'm just gonna bring up the exposure for the entire thing. E don't want to go too far because that starts toe blow out. The brights are the highlights, so I'm just gonna go a little bit. And then I'm going to adjust the highlights in the shadows separately. So bring up the shadows. The black point. I don't like bringing down the black point. Often. That's not my style, because it just gets a little washed out. The highlights, though, if we bring down the highlights, weaken, then bring up the exposure just a little bit more cool. So as we do that, we're creating more contrast, which actually adds a lot of saturation to this image, which I don't necessarily like much. So I'm going to take my color sliders and decrease the saturation just a little bit. And also the cast. I'm trying to get my cats natural skin tone, so I think decreasing the cast actually makes it look a little bit better here. I want to add some definition with pets. You can make it cool photo adding definition where you get no sharper for sharper details. You can do this with sharpening, too, but just like porches of people, it can start to look a little bit fake. But maybe that's a style you're going for. And so maybe if I want this to be sort of that grungy style, what I would do is add a lot of definition going toe my black and white settings and really crank up the intensity and the grain of the black and white sliders, and that can give you a really intense sort of grungy feel. But I'm going to turn that off because I don't want that for this photo, necessarily. And bring down my definition. Let's try to make her eyes pop a little bit more so, first under selective color, I'm just going to choose the blue right here. Bring up the saturation of the blue, and you can see when I do that her eyes get really beautiful. So I'm gonna create that up all the way before and then play with the range. I'm gonna increase the range, decrease the range. I still don't get her eyes. But I don't want any blue showing up in her skin over here. So if I decrease this, we still wanted to affect the eyes, but not her. For Daleks. Pretty good I'm noticing. Referred out here is a little bit blue. So maybe the cast that I did was a little bit much. It's really just undo the cast, and that looks a little bit more natural to me, too. Lastly, I'll just come into my curves and see if I want to move the black point at all or the white point. Yeah, but I will maybe just boost the exposure just a little bit. And this just gives me a little bit better way of flying tuning that I'm gonna boost the darks and then bring back the highlights this way, just like so. So let's see the before after before, after Nice. And this might be an example of where I would actually create a white or a highlighted vignette. A dark vignette can help and sometimes, but I think this is a case for a life. And yet I always like softening, and when I soften, I will decrease the radius. That kind of is a cool stylistic choice right there, diving. Yet I think completely changes how this photo looks nice. Cool. I'm not too worried about her nose and mouth being out of focus. Her eyes are what's in focus. They're perfectly sharp the hair right around her eyes. I mean, the focus might be a little bit too far. Actually, her eyes. It might be a little bit soft, but it's in focus enough. That's what happens when you're shooting with such a a wide open aperture, which means a very shallow depth of field. Cool. I'm pretty happy with this photo so before, after before, after pretty darn good thanks so much for watching this full editing session. I hope you enjoyed it and we'll see you in another lesson. 44. How to Find Photos in the Finder: you may wonder, where are these photos on your computer? How do you have access to them through the finder? And it's a little bit confusing, actually, because if you go into your finder, you'll see that you have your photos library, and this is actually where your photos are stored. To actually access the inner files of this photo library, right click and choose show package contents. This opens up a lot of folders, including the plug ins and things that helps photos actually work. But if you want to access the photos themselves, click on masters, and then you can see the different years that you've imported photos from. So if I go into this year, you can go down into folders by date in depending on the date you confined photos that were imported into your computer. So if you don't want to go and export your photos to a new location, you can always come into the photos library in the back and like this to copy photos, too. Duplicate them to back them up to share them that kind of thing. So remember, it's going to your pictures on your computer. Go to photos, library right click show package contents go into masters, and that's where all of your photos live. 45. Change Where Photos are Stored: another advance thing you may or may not want to do, depending on how you want to organize your photos on your computer. In the finder is change whether the photos are copied into the I photo library, which we just on the previous lesson, which is inside that photos library package. Or you can reference the photos from their own folders wherever you want on a Mac, and that option is under photos and preferences under the general preferences. You see this importing option, and it's automatically checked. It says copy items to the photos library. And so if you import photos from your camera, or even if you have them on your computer in another location and then you bring them into Mac photos is going to make a duplicate of that photo, which, if you're taking a lot of photos, can end up taking up a lot of space. My photos library is one of the biggest files or the biggest things that I have stored on my computer, and I don't really want it to duplicate. So if you have your photos say, like I dio under my finder in pictures and you can see that I have folders right within Finder for different months and photo trips and things like that. Then I can uncheck this. And then when I import these photos into Mac photos, it will reference thes files from this folder. It won't copy it to the photos library and not just save a lot of space. So that's one thing that you can do if you don't want to import them just into photos. Of course, just importing into photos makes it super easy. You don't have to deal with organizing it on your Mac. Find her at all. Just know that if you ever stop using photos than it's going to be a little bit of a pain to organize them outside of the photos library. And that's why I keep my photos outside of the photos library because I like having access to them. Easy access to them if I'm using the photos in things like photo shop or light room or other programs to that's in the general options. Under importing that check box for Cobby items to the photo library 46. Send Photos to Other Apps for Editing: Here's how you can edit your photos with other applications and have it sink automatically with your photos in your photos library. Let me first actually make a duplicate of this photo. So right click duplicate one photo so that I still have the original Awesome. So if you go toe image at it with you can choose the other application you want to edit with. So Photoshopped doesn't appear here for me. So that's the one. I'm going to open it up with someone to choose, either Then find a photo shop and then click open. That opens up this image in photo shop, which has other tools. So I'm not gonna really do much really quickly. Nothing professional, But I'm just going to copy this part of the image and put this Joshua tree down here, change the blend mode So it looks like kind of like we have this Joshua tree in the distance. If we save this photo in Photoshopped, we're gonna have to save it as another project click. OK, now, if we go back to the photos library, it has those edits that we made in photo shop. Now in photos I can't go and undo this. And I can only undo this in photo shop if I saved as a Photoshopped file so I can still go back. Se actually wanna have that there and then take this photo. And if you're interested in learning photo job, I have a course on that. Put this up here like, so save it. Now go back to the photos and it takes a couple seconds to sync up. But there you have it. That photo now is here in this photo. This is a case where I would make a duplicate. Just so you have the original version. But the awesome thing is, even if you go in to your edit menu in photos, you can revert this photo to the original. So if I click, revert to original, it gets rid of all of those changes we made in the other application. Pretty darn cool. Thanks so much for watching. And we'll see in another lesson, 47. View All Keyboard Shortcuts: I've been sharing a number of keyboard shortcuts throughout this course with you. But if you want a complete list of the keyboard shortcuts, just go up to the help menu and choose keyboard shortcuts. This will open up this photos help menu, and you can choose keyboard shortcuts right here to see all of the different keyboard shortcuts that you have available to you. They organize them in category of what you would be doing, for example, working with books, calendars, cards, slide shows, organization, different editing selections, all kinds of stuff. And hopefully you've been enjoying in this class how I put the keyword shortcuts at the bottom of the frame for all of the editing lessons. So anyways, that's just up in the help menu. Keyboard shortcuts Thanks so much. 48. Working with Video in Mac Photos: in this video, I'm going to show you how you can work with video in Mac photos so you'll find all of the videos that you've taken under media types and then choosing videos to open up any video and play it just double click it and then you get this play bar. So the way this works is you have this big play, but in the in the middle, you have your volume over here on the left. You can choose this button right here to play on an Apple TV or airplay it to another device. If you have one, you can scrub through the video down here with the whole timeline. This video is of us in a submarine little trip at Catalina Island, which is off the coast of Los Angeles. You can click these buttons to go back one frame at a time, and you also have more options so you can starting at the bottom. You can change those back one frame and Ford frames to scan so you can press it wants to go back at two times speed, present twice president three times, and it speeds up how it scans through two times five times or 10 times. Next, you have your export frame two pictures. So if you find a frame that you want to save or print out, or whatever is that we have this frame right here, you can choose that by clicking the gear and then choosing export frame two pictures. The other option we had was set poster frame, and this is just setting the frame that will appear in the library. So, for example, if I go back to all my videos and there's this video right here, which I don't really know what it's about And so I didn't even realize Isabel was in this photo or this video. So what Aiken Dio is, you know, set the poster frame like So now if we go back, that is, the image we see in the library now is not changing anything about the video at all. It's just so that we know what that video is about. What about this last one, which is trim. So if we take this video, which is 44 seconds long, when she is trim and gives us these trim bars so we can take in the left hand side to the start point and then the right in side to the end point. If we want to trim this, so say, we just want the end of this. We can take this like so, and you can play through it with the play button over here and then choose trim. Now that video clip is just this long. We could always go back in and choose reset trim. If you're working with slo mo videos, you'll see this little bar beneath the play bar, and you might be used to that. If you play through your videos on your smartphone or your iPhone, you have the regular speed and then the slow mo Here we are on Christmas morning a couple of years ago, my little brother playing with a new car, doing some epic jumps, and you see that this part right here in between this point and this point is all in slow mo. So that's how you know what is in Sloman, what's not. You can even adjust the in point of the slow mo by dragging this to the left and the out point by dragging this to the right so that the whole video is in slo mo, which is something that not a lot of people know how to do with their smartphones. So this video now the entire thing is slo mo. But this is also perfect. Instance where we'd want to trim this in, just to the point where this car is going over the ramp, jumping over it. Got that nice son light leak. Now we just have this part right here. Boom! Nice. If you want to export a video, you get some other options. So select the video you want to export. Go to file export export video. Here you have your different qualities. So your movie quality for 80 p 7 20 p 10. 80 p and four k exporting at a higher resolution than your original video won't really mean anything. It's not going to make it better. So if you shot your video in 10. 80 p and export at four K, it doesn't mean that your video is going to look better. Is just going to be stretched. So what I like to do is make sure that I'm exporting either at the exact quality that I shot at or something lower, depending on if I need it to be that high quality if I'm shooting and four K, But I'm only showing the video on a 10 80 p playback system, whether that's online or playing on my TV, that only shows 10 80 p. I'm I only choose to export at 10 80 p. You can include the titles, keywords, description and location, information, metadata, and then you have the same naming options as you did for the exporting photos. So if you export this, it's going to ask you where you want to export. And now we have this export the trimmed part of this video in slow motion that we had chosen pretty cool. And now we can upload this share this and its people play it back wherever we want, so that's a little bit more into how you can work with videos in Mac photos. It's really cool a lot you can do with your different videos right within this program, 49. Viewing and Organizing Photos on Your Phone: Welcome to this bonus section on using the photos app on your iPhone, which is very similar to Mac photos on your computer. So in this section, we're just going to go over how you can view, organize and edit and share your photos right from the app. Soto open the app. Just click on the photos icon, and the first thing you'll see is all of your different albums. And so, in this lesson, we're just going to go over how you can organize and view your different photos. So it has your camera roll, which, if you click on that, it shows all of the photos that you've taken with your camera. You can click on any individual photo to open it up full screen, and you see there there's my pup. Ashby s most my camp. My photos are of our pets, and you can zoom in by pinching with two fingers and spreading your fingers apart or pushing them together, moving them around to zoom in or out. Click on or just tap your photo to get the black background or tap again to get the title bar down below. You have your timeline or your Siris of photos that you can scroll through just by dragging from left to right or by clicking on an individual photo. So let's go back to our albums and you'll see that we have our favorited photos. We have photos with people so it recognises photos. Faces has places just like in the Mac photos up, and it also organizes by type videos selfies, which are photos that were taken with your the front facing camera on your phone life photos, panorama, slo mo bursts, screenshots and recently deleted. Then you have your custom albums. Some of these are created by other applications, such as instagram or layout, which is another app, or I have the cannon E os app for importing photos directly from my canon. Ah, my cannon camera to create your own custom album. Just press the plus button in the top left of the APP and then give it a name. So let's just call this course, then click save, and now it opens up all of your photos toe. Ask you what photos do you want to add? You can select by a moment and remember how in the Mac Photos course we talked about what a moment was. It's a collection of photos based off of a similar time, a similar location, depending on how you many photos were taking. So let's say Okay, so October 4th, I took all of these photos or Ashby. OK, and now let's do October 1st. This was a little art NYT at my mom's house so you could click select, and you can also click multiple and then click done to add to the course in the top right. Or you can zoom out from collections and go to or from moments to collections or zoom out even mawr. Two years Koolhaas. So I got this phone in 2017 so I only have photos in 2017 basically, and then just double click or click into a collection or a moment to get into that next level. So let me show you if I select Thursday by clicking, select and then clicking done, it creates that album, and now we can go into that album, and it has all of those photos, toe ADM or photos to an album. Just click the select button in the top, right and then add to go back to all of your photos to add more photos. So let's add a couple of just selecting these by clicking them and then click done and those air added to this album. You can also add photos directly from a photo that you've taken. So say you go to your camera roll and you've taken a few photos. So I want to add this photo from the concert. You can click this button in the bottom left corner, which is your share button will be going into this and a little bit more depth in the future and then go to album, which is right in the bottom, right? Right now Click that and select the album that you want to add to. You can create a new album directly from this menu or click the album you want to add to which I just click course now if I go back to all my albums, scroll down to my course album, you can see that photo has been added to the album, so that's pretty much all you need to know about how you view photos and how you can organize them into different albums. In the next lesson, we're going to talk about how you can share photos with all kinds of different devices, followed by how you can actually edit photos right within photos. 50. Sharing Photos from Your Phone: in this lesson, We're going to learn about the other ways you can share your photos right from the photos app. So let's go into one of those photos like we saw before Ashby as a shark and verse. You didn't I didn't say this yet lot in the last lesson. But if you just click that heart at the very bottom, that favorites the photo so you can quickly add that to your favorites, which becomes one of your albums. Your favorites right here. Okay, so let's go back into that photo. Click the button with the little square and the arrow in the bottom left, and that brings up all of your sharing options. So the first option below all of these photos is airdrop. So you have to turn this this on on your Mac device. But if you have this on on a Mac device that is close to you or someone else is smart iPhone that's close to you. You can click that button right now. I have my I Mac turned on, and if I click that button, it sends it to that device, and you can see that Click that button and it when I had incentive, which is really, really awesome. So that's a quick way, actually, to get individual photos to someone, you can also select multiple photos. I'm scrolling through the top list of photos, and you can just check that little box in the bottom left or bottom right corner of each photo to choose multiple photos. Blow air drop. You have the main apse that you can share photos with. So clicking any of these in this row that I'm scrubbing through or clicking the more button to see all those. You can send photos directly to those APS, and they all work differently. But if you click on it, it will just upload it and you will. It will open that app, and you'll do whatever you want with that app. Then down below. Lastly, you have these sort of standard share options that are part of the photos app so you can copy the photo going from bottom left right, you can start a slide show just so just pressing that will create a slide show, which is kind of cool. You can also airplay this by clicking the button in the top right that you see here. So if you have an Apple TV or another device, you can send this to that device and play on that screen down below. Next to slide show. You have the airplay, but in here as well, which won't play it as a slideshow, but we'll just put it up on the screen. You could add to an album, which we saw directly from here in the middle. You can create a watch face. If you have an apple watch, you can set it as your phone wallpaper. You can hide it if you want to. Just take it away from your photos app. You can save two files because files is a new app that iPhones have. You can duplicate it if you want to duplicate it and make edits and have the original, you're gonna sign it to a contact print, and then you can click the more button for even more options. The main way that I use this option for is sending to someone with the text message. So just click the text message button, and now you see that it opens up as a text message. You just add your contact information. You can add some text or whatever. So that's thes share menu for individual or groups of photos. If you select a lot of these photos, you will notice that some of the apse don't allow you to send that many photos. So see, once I collect selected more than five. I was not able to send it via the mail app, and that's probably just because of a limit on the number of photos or the size of the photos that you can send with the mail app. Cool. So that's the share menu. In the next lesson, we're going to learn about editing your photos right from the APP. 51. Editing Photos on Your Phone: in this lesson, I'll walk through the editing options on your photos app. So here's a photo of my grandpa and Isabel and I on his 90th birthday. So to edit any photo, you just clicked the edit button in the top, right? So once you get that, you get sort of the darker view similar to the darker interface on the Mac photos app on your computer in the top, right? You haven't auto enhance buttons. So when I check that it automatically fixes things like exposure White Balance and actually does a decent job with this photo checking it again, we'll turn that off, going from left to right on the bottom. And you you have a crop and rotate option. So selecting that automatically tries to level the photo according to people's eyes, which is cool. And it does that in the Mac. Photos up on the computer to because typically you want your photos to be level with eyes and so you can see the original photo as I drag that it really rotates that photo. So I want to make sure that I crop into this photo and first actually want to make sure that I'm set to the right aspect ratio when I'm clicking and dragging the corners in like this, which I'm doing to the top left corner. Right now, I have a free form aspect ratio so I can make it at any sort of aspect I want. I want to click this button in the bottom, right above, done, to get our different aspect ratios. So say I wanna edit this so that it fits perfectly on my screen desktop on my home computer . All click 16 by nine, and now I can click in my photo drag in, and then I can click the photo itself in the middle and drag it around. I'm just clicking in the middle or tapping in the middle and dragging it around below. You have the rotate if you want to make rotation adjustments, just clicking below where that little arrow is and making any adjustments. Custom adjustments you want there. So I like something like that. Cool. And then this button on the bottom, left right above cancel completely rotates the photo. If for some reason it wasn't auto corrected. Okay, so click off of the crop. But in down in the bottom left next to cancel to get out of the crop menu. Now let's go into this next menu, which are your filters. So these were some of the same types of filters you have on your computer, so you can just click one of these. And it's a one click filter that changes the exposure of the contrast that color, all kinds of things that ends up looking pretty cool. I'm not going to use one of those filters, so let me check off that. Then you have your adjustments tab. So clicking on that adjustments button, which looks like that little dial, brings up all of the different options available on your phone app. So you light color and black and white, so clicking the drop down menu for any of these will give you all those options. So for light, let me click that drop down menu, and you have just like on the Mac photos up on the computer. You have all of the different options. So clicking into one of those, such as brilliance, you can click the slider and drag left to right. Then clicking that three. Those three lines on the right will give you back to the menus. So let's go into, for example, our shadows, and we can drag left to right to bring up our shadows. So clicking those three lines on the right gives you get you back into that menu. Clicking the arrow up will close down that menu, so going into color, you have saturation contrast. So if we want to add some more saturation and cast, which fixes the sort of the blue light coming from your fluorescent light bulbs and then black and white, and if you add black and white any of these, it will automatically turn your photo black and white. Just click the black and white button on the left next to a tense intensity to turn on or off this effect. So those air your main editing options clicking the close button will close those down, and you also have this more options. So this has some mawr editing applications that you can open right within this app. Markup is one for adding some text or drawing right on your photos so you have your pens down below. So selecting a pen you can actually draw on your photo. You can undo by pressing the undo button in the bottom left, changing the pen type down below. You can also change the color, which is this black little circle in the bottom, right next to the plus sign. Now let's choose like a red clicking the pencil to go back. And let's actually change to this pen, and it's sort of like a highlighter you can close to. Click the plus button down below toe automatically add some text, a signature or Teoh. Add a magnifier, which is a kind of cool thing. If you want toe, zoom in on a specific part of the photo. I'm gonna undo that by clicking the back, but, um, but in in the bottom left corner, you also have a few shapes like these squares and narrow the thought bubble. Clicking on any of them will add it, and you can edit it by just clicking the little buttons on the arrow itself. This green button in the middle curves this arrow up or down and changing the color by clicking the red button down below and changing the color to whatever you want. Clicking the bottom next to the color will give you more options for how the the arrow appears. Okay, once you're done with marking up, you can click done in the top right, and that will save that photo and then say, you've made all of your adjustments. You can click done. Now, this photo has been saved with all of your edits, and you can go ahead and send it with the send button in the bottom left, or just save it on your phone. So that's how you edit photos right within the photos app on your iPhone. 52. Thank You Video: I feel here, and I just wanted to say Thank you so much for taking this class. At this point, we're just about done, and you have learned a lot if you worked through the entire course and hopefully you feel comfortable using Mac photos. If there's anything that I could do to make this class better for you, please let me know. I'm a huge fan of listening, and I always listened to my students to try to make my courses batter. So if there's something I went over to quickly, something I missed or just completely forgot about or something I said Wrong, just let me know and I'll make sure toe try to make this course better, using your feedback. If you're interested in other photography courses or video design and business courses, check out my website at video school online dot com. That's where you can find direct and discounted links to all of my courses again, Thank you so much for enrolling in taking this class. I hope you enjoyed it. If you haven't done so already, please leave a review. I do appreciate that a lot, and we'll hopefully see you in another class. Have fun editing photos and we'll see you soon