Pearl Hoops | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

15 Lessons (1h 21m)
    • 1. Pearl Hoops - learn how to set half-drilled pearls

      2:30
    • 2. Pearl Hoops - materials

      1:57
    • 3. Pearl Hoops - equipment

      2:53
    • 4. Pearl Hoops - soldering equipment

      5:15
    • 5. Pearl Hoops - preparing the wire

      7:42
    • 6. Pearl Hoops - hammering

      4:34
    • 7. Pearl Hoops - drilling

      5:20
    • 8. Pearl Hoops - shaping the hoops

      4:43
    • 9. Pearl Hoops - soldering

      7:19
    • 10. Pearl Hoops - filing

      6:10
    • 11. Pearl Hoops - earwires

      7:59
    • 12. Pearl Hoops - preparing the posts

      10:46
    • 13. Pearl Hoops - setting the pearls

      6:26
    • 14. Pearl Hoops - finishing the earrings

      6:20
    • 15. Pearl Hoops - final thoughts

      1:11
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About This Class

Welcome to the Pearl Hoops earrings class! Pearls are a classic staple of any jewellery box, and I love the soft colour they add to silver jewellery. The earrings in this class are a long pair of swinging hoop-shaped drops, a variation on the Garnet Hoop Earrings class.

The main technique that we will be covering during the class is how to set half-drilled pearls onto silver. The technique is not a difficult one, but the hints and tips I share will help make certain that you create a strong firm setting for the pearls. We will also, as always, cover soldering techniques.

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This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me. In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is a beginner class although those with previous experience will gain value from practising their fine soldering skills.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers most of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #42 in the #52earrings challenge.

Meet Your Teacher

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Joanne Tinley

Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

Teacher

I have been making jewellery for as long as I can remember, and have been passing these wonderful (and addctive!) skills on through my classes for nearly 20 years. I am self-taught and like many people I started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making! There is something so magical about watching solder flow through a seam, joining two pieces of metal together smoothly.

My studio is in Southampton, on the South Coast of the UK. I design and make jewellery for galleries across the UK, teach regular and popular jewellery design workshops, and also offer private tuition. My jewellery design projects have been published in both UK and US magazines and books.

Visit my Etsy shop, Jewellers Bench Shop, for jewellery ma... See full profile

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Transcripts

1. Pearl Hoops - learn how to set half-drilled pearls: Hello, My name's John Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer and shooter from the Southwest UK and welcome to a Powell hoops hearings. This class is a variation of one that you might have already seen. Garnett Hoops hearings fast in both classes, the hoops mentioned are made over tangled wire that hangs of simple air wise by a couple of short pieces of chain in the garnet earrings. The stone hang below the hoops is spent suggests a gun. It's a beautiful teardrop Garnett a. Really that that's why wrapped onto the hoop in this project, the stone hanging from the bottom of the hoops is actually a freshwater pile on. Unlike the garden hoops hearings class, this one needs of those offices soldering because of host, has to be prepared for the pole to sit on a need to sort it in place. The post on each hearing is needed because the polls that were using 1/2 drilled freshwater hell's. In other words, they have a whole that has started to be drilled through it on half way almost halfway into the beans on it sits on top of a perfectly fitting host. It's glued in place using half your piles. It's actually only technique you will never hear Julia mentioned Guru. Although using half drilled piles or half truths, gemstones because he could get those as well, is not a difficult technique. To get the best results. You do need to make sure that you get the best fitting on the strongest post he possibly can. By following the hints and tips and techniques to go through with your class, you'll be sure of mission. Sure that your designs are best. Make them. This class is part of the 52 viewings challenged I set myself in 2017 design and film tutorial for 52 different kinds of things. Have a look out the hash type 52 Hearings on both Instagram and Facebook get behind the scenes photos and hints and tips about what's coming next. Meantime, no, that's get started by having a look at the equipment and materials you're going to need to make your 2. Pearl Hoops - materials: these are the materials that we're going to need to make the hearings. I'm going to make the hoops that the polls were touched on. Two from short lengths off Rectangular Weir. This why is four millimeters by no 40.84 millimeters, But any rectangular while that you like look, hold, will do nicely. Or if you don't have any rectangle where you could get thick, round wire, and either send it to the rolling mill to flatten it out a bit or hammer it flatter. Instead, I'm going to use no 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge around sterling silver wire to make the ear wires and don't also use the same. Why to form the post that the Half Gill polls are going to be fixed onto. I got four short links about 18 millimeters, thanks off sterling Silver traits changed quite a fine chain that was left over from shortening a change dependent with hang on. I always keep a little bits and pieces like this. It's nice coming up with projects that make a good use of them. I'm going to touch one of those to either end of the hoops. Andi, I'm going to use four small jump rings to do that. Thes jump creams are made of North 40.8 millimeter wire, and they have an inside diameter of 2.5 millimeters. Last but definitely not least all the palest I'm going to use. These are peacock gray, half George freshwater pals. Half job means that they've got a whole going in towards the middle of them. But it doesn't go all the way through on that hold on, then be fitted onto a stunning silver. Why post And they are glued in place onto that post. 3. Pearl Hoops - equipment: these the tools that we're going to need to make the pile hoop earrings. I'm going to use a Sharpie onder the ruler, to mark out the length of rectangular wild that I'm going to use to form the hoops section of the earrings. And I'm going to sort each section of wire off using the jewellers sore supporting the silver on the bench. Peg, as I saw the April underneath, will catch the dust so it could be collected up and put in a scrap pot of what to needle files the flat needle file I'm going to use to smooth and round off the corners of the rectangle. Why, before it's formed into the hoops and I'll also be using that same file towards the end of the project to smooth around off the end of the year wire, I'm going to use the Oval Needle file to smooth off the inside of the hoop. After I soldiered the post for the pole in place, I'm going to text to the rectangular weir, using my Swiss star Lord's cross peen hammer on our supports. A silver on the bench block with the leather cushion underneath to keep the noise down a little bit. The next tour that I'll need is my bench drill, although you could use a hand drill for this job. Instead, I'm going to drill three no 30.9 millimeter holes in each piece of rectangular weir going to do to at the ends. And those are going to allow the rectangular weir with a hoop that it will be by that stage to attach to the chains on Duthie third hole. It's going to be in the middle on that will be for the post that they pearl is going to be glued onto. As you can see, I've got several pairs of pliers here. The most unusual are the bail forming pliers that look a little bit like around those pliers. But one knows has got two sections of three different sizes on it. I'm going to use those to form the rectangular weir into the hoops on. Also to help form the ear wires, the wire cutters on the rest of the wires are going to be used to help me form the ear wires and also to attach the hoop to the chains with the jump rings. The ear wise also need a bit of hammering to give him a bit of extra strength on. I'm going to hammer them with plan ish ing Hammer again supporting the metal on the bench block and the leather cushion whilst I work. I'm going to be soldering in this project to fix the postal, a pile in place in the middle of the hopes. So it's also have a look at the soldering equipment that we're going to need. 4. Pearl Hoops - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap. On top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi the paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work, so he was also available in a paste form, its ground up soldier that's already mixed with a flux, so you don't need a separate flux. In fact, if you were toe adds the yellow Fluxus, I showed you it would stop this soldier pace from working properly. It's most commonly available in syringes with small tips that she can see here. You can also buy it in tubs and pots, just like with the traditional sticks or strips of soldier, so the pace is available in three different melting temperatures. Easy, medium and hard. I've just got easy and medium here. The easy is the one that's 268 degrees sent rate for amounting temperature. The medium is 732. Recent weight. As you can tell, the easy solder paste, is a favorite newer than the medium soldier paste. When you have a new syringe, it's best to pull back on the plunger after you finished using it. Otherwise, the soldier pace is going to continue to snake out of the tip a little bit, and you don't want to waste it because this is actually the most expensive way of buying soldier. I like to use the solder paste on projects like chains on door, so hollow beads sometimes might use it on sucking rings if I'm in a bit of a hurry, because one of the advantages sort of place is that the soldier usually stays exactly where you want it to be. Unlike the sort of Italians that can jump off as you start to heat the metal up, small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers, not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before, and thus, but definitely not least are her safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully 5. Pearl Hoops - preparing the wire: as every said, the hoop sections that are going toe hang from the earrings by the chain. Onders. They're going to have the pearl attached on tooth. Um, in turn, are going to be made out of short lengths off rectangular wires. I'm going to form into U shape on. I'm going to cut to 2.5 centimeter or 25 millimeter links of the wire. I've used the woman sharply to mark out the first point at which I want to cut. I'm going to cut that off before measuring and marking the second length reason going to do that, too. Rather measure them both out and then cut them both. Is that a might soup a little and go a little bit off a piece of the mark there? Andi, my cutting might not be as accurate as might like it to be, which would mean that the second piece wouldn't be accurate if I got straight and Martin both out. So it's always best to measure mark cut measure mark cut rather do, or the measuring or the marking and then cutting so but the silver on the bench peg so most of it's supported by the wood. But I can get my blade in this section here. That's life cutting to the wood. Remember, when you're cutting it is the down stroke that cuts that you want to keep your bladers upright as possible and you want to hear a nice smooth with it. Sounds like this. Not a jacket one like this, that Okay, that jacket sound is when I'm putting you in just a tiny bit of pressure on the blade. You don't need to do that, Do that. Let the blade do the work for you. I have attached a downloadable pdf of hints to help you get the best of fuel. Jewel soared to the class materials so she's worth you having a look through that way just worse as you get almost through the cut, moving a finger up to the other side to support both sides because the cut in the work and something close around the blade to make it a little bit more difficult. One time to market out again. Okay, so another 25 millimeters or 2.5 centimeters. Cut it off again. You can get into the habit. You tonight. Long strokes rather little ones. It's also a good thing to do, because that way you're making a better use off the saw blade. He not just blunting one section north. A nice long stroke so far more efficient way of cutting. Well, that's the start of the earrings, two sections of the rectangular weir that are going to be formed into the hoops. The next thing I need to do is to use a needle file to meeting off the ends. Now I'm not during the soldering at either end. I don't need to make sure that they are beautifully square. I don't need to measure them up against the Engineers Square to make sure that there's a complete half it right angles at the end here. But I do need to make certain that by I at least they look straight and actually not too bad. This will take a little bit off. Not, and here that's better. I'm changed, too, as well as make mistreat is just make sure that I'm using the file to remove Mark Settle left by the jeweler. Sore as well. I think the first bit nicer. Have you seen her? I go across like so which is actually what I prefer to do. If I'm making sure that something is square and straight, we could go across like that. That's one squared up in neat turned up again. Just need to lower down slightly on the site. Furthest away from me. Yeah, So the last managed to file at this stage of the class is to just take those sharp corners off. So I'm just going to sweet around just a little bit, turn the wire around and do the same on the other side. But what So just going to across Sit holding the fires about 45 degrees as well, just going across to remove any birds left by filing again, rounding off the corners US site. Just make sure that a sharp barbs removed this one. - You get to pieces of why So they say I want to do to thes piece of y is to hammer them toe as informative extra interest 6. Pearl Hoops - hammering: now you could leave their pieces of wire smooth, free of texture. You could send them through the rolling mill, where something patterned to give me a texture that way. Or you could use a decorative Texas stumps on a little bit of extra interest. I'm going to hammer. I'm going to use my cross pain or Swiss. I'll hammer my straight aged the hammer that's going to put a passive lines across the white. I think we'll catch the light beautifully now because of the style of Hamas I'm using. One thing I am going to make certain off is that the two piece of wire are still the same length of the each other. When I finished hammering, they are both, and I measured them both to be 25 millimeters. But I check them up against each other since I've cut them out on filed, Um, and they are a really good match. But if you have seen any of the other classes I've done that, use this hammock, then you have had me say already that metal moves at right angles to the head of the hammer , so right angles the head off a around hammer is in every direction, so there's not much movement or growth in the silver. However, right angles to the head off across being Homer. It's that way. So as I Hamma across, they silver is going to grow a little bit office. Even more hammering you do with a more force for your hammer strokes are, the more it's going to go out, and sometimes you can use that you advantage. This time. I don't mind if the pieces of silver grow a millimeter or so, but I do want to make sure that they stay are the same length. Still, once I finished hammering, so I will keep checking against each other if I put the bun textured piece back home. Hartley. Somethin C A contrast in the texture of I showed up from the light a bit more to see the contrast of texture. I do like this texture thing. It catches the light really nicely, but the piece of silver, that's why hammered has actually grown by about a millimeter. So while I have hammered the second piece, I put the two back together again. Make sure they are still the same length. If one of them is slightly shorter than the other. Then I will hammer the short one a bit more to get it to grow a bit more. - Check these two. They Oh, come on a roll today they owe still the same length was a suppose I consumed than they could. I so happy with those that said, if one of thumb had turned out to be a little bit shorter than all I do is hammer the shorter piece just a little bit more to get it grow little bit more and check it again. But I'm happy with those. So those are going to catch the light really, really nicely. What I need to do with them now is to mark the points at which I want to drill holes and then actually killed. 7. Pearl Hoops - drilling: in this section of the class. I want to drill three holes in each of these actually quite small pieces of silver. Andi, I've marked on one of the pieces. The three points the way to want to show the holes. The two at the ends are two for the job. Brings through that and then going to hook in turn on toothy chain that's going to hang him . Turn from the ear wire on the one in the middle. I'm going to solder a post into that. And that's what is going to fix the half mile pole in place. I need to do the same with this one, So But it against the ruler. Andi C two Marcone the halfway point there. If I could get my sharp toe work, that would be nice. I do like thes nice. Um oh, toe fine sharpies. But the nips do dry out quite quickly if you don't leave the leaves, the lights on them on just gonna mark just over a millimetre from from each and my so and then to dio crosshairs like all that that one for the drill to aim at just going to mark across the middle of each line. Okay, so those are the six marks for the holds put on the silver. So I'm going to do now is move the camera so that you can actually see the drill. As I showed you in the equipment section of the class, I'm using my electric bench drill to drill the three holes and each piece of silver as I really like this. Still, because it allows me to hold on to even small pieces very safely. Andi, for the job, it to come down exactly where I want it to be. Andi. Nice and vertical. However, a hand drill would do the job, Justus. Well, although if it's a handle that needs two hands to operate it, you probably need to tape the piece of silver down to the wooden block, which adversity what you're drilling into. Um, so the state secure and safe and doesn't trying to move around as you're drilling. So the same as before, when I've used this, going to make sure that everything's lined up nicely on drilling into rather beaten up scrap piece of wood and to make sure it's lined up properly and then switch the drill on and get going. I'm using a no 0.9 millimeter Drillbit. I'm going to be passing not 0.8 millimeter wire through those holes circling me, quite a stuck for it, but not really, really tight. The jump rings that I'm using to attach the chain will be out to go through nicely, - says the holes of three holes drilled in the first piece of silverware. As you saw for each one, I stopped and started. Stop the drill, made sure that it was lined up properly and then turned the job it back on China. Drill back onto another job it to Did your through concede. There holds a little bit more clearly on the other side, however, with more experience, with more practice using a lot more confidence used. This you can line up as the job. It is already moving and coming down, which is what I'm going to do now. Just a show it. It can be done, but you do need to have more confidence with your tools to be able to do that. - So so six holes drilled. The next thing I need to do is shape those links over rectangular white into the hoops 8. Pearl Hoops - shaping the hoops: I'm going to be using a pair off bail forming or step Mandel pliers to turn each of these lengths off rectangular y into a U shape that slender form the hooks that's going to hang from the chains at the bottom of the earrings. I'm going to use the largest section here. Former Nice to be you, Andi, she had to tell. I hope that this part supplies this. No supplies is padded. Andi. Every now and again, I have to replace a parting because it gets, as you can see, that worn and I buy. I bought a couple years. Actually, a meter links off aquatic tubing that I've tubing that's sold for use with the pond and fish tank, Um, pumps. Andi cut link for that, and it's the perfect size to fit across on. What that does is allow me to hold family and tightly inside the pliers without the underneath off the metal being damaged, a tool by replies of self. So they're holding this so that it's nice and even the the site just can't use my. I think it's been that up with now this metal because it's being filed on, especially because it's being hammered is actually quite stiff, so it takes a bit of effort to bend to talk about. You can see it can be done, so you might need to kneel the metal before you turn it. If your fingers aren't quite strong as I am, or if you want to be able to bend it a lot easier or indeed of Hue Hamed it a lot more than I have. So I'm going to take us out and turn it around the other way. Because although I could have just pulled the wire up on this side, it's a different type of pressure, different amount of pressure. I want to make sure that the pressure is nice and even so turned it around just same either site. It's even, but it's not bent up as much as I wanted to pay. So again put them back in, bend it up a little bit more. Turn it round is same to the other side, so it's nice and even we get full happy with that shape. So the trick is trying. Get that one to match so again, holding it nice, essentially nice and straight, so it's going across supplies happened. IQ ula to the no supplies end up, turn it round some getting even pressure on each side. That's the first stages. I got that one, too, and check it out. Think I've been that one enough, but and double checked one hold two together I can see this one, the 1st 1 being bent more like that shape. So rather than pull that one open, I'm going to bring this one a bit more spectra, so happy with how those much those are almost ready. But just these do one piece of soldering, and that's to put a post Pearl is going to go on to on that post is going to be soldiered through the hole that I told in the middle of each rectangular piece of wire. 9. Pearl Hoops - soldering: I've coming nice and close with a camera so you can get a good view of how I started to set the soldering up off what? The two u shapes the two hoops made out of rectangular Weir. Andi, you can see clearly that the whole that I've killed in the bottom I've already such this one up is like the back with a piece of no 10.8 millimeter so civil around wire about five or six millimeter length. I put a little bit off easy solder paste at the tip. As you can see, Donald, this one as well on then pushed it a little bit. If I can turn it around gently, you can see how little of it is showing at the back. I put it all the way through. Says it is going to get a nice, strong soldier join. However, the more you have poking through the other site, the more you've got to find off in the next section of the class. So to make life easier for yourself, don't put too much. So I've maybe got well, I've got no more than a millimeter. Probably closer to 1/2 a millimeter poking through that. That's the 1st 1 set up. Um, by the way, the holes that I drilled through, usually when I'm drilling a hole for a post for half deal pile to be pushed into, I drill the hole using the same diameter drill bit as the why that I'm using Because I do want to be a nice, snug fit, however, partly because I was really using no 0.9 to draw those holes, and I do want they know 0.8 millimeter. Why jump rings goes through nice and easy, but also because I'm shaping the wire. I went for 0.9 millimeters. Your business have no 0.8 in the middle, and that's because I knew that shaping the why putting a bend in it was likely to stretch the whole out a little bit. Make it a bit more over than round on, perhaps make his little bit more difficult for the wire to be poked into Now, In my case, the why did go through it needed a little bit of effort twisting it through, but it did go through if you find that your whole is definitely a tie, but too tight for your wire, then perhaps take the drill bit again and just by hand, twisted through the whole might take very much effort, just holding 200 c two whole to enlarge the hole again. Or if you've got a very small around needle file, you could use us instead. So we'll pick this up with reverse, actually tweeted because it's so small. I don't want to smear that so to paste everywhere and I'm going to put this through. But it's all of a sudden, so I'm going to pull the wide back a little bit because I don't want too much while poking through. And just as I pushed the wife through a little bit too far, it pushed the soldier pace too far up the wire. So I'm doing now with the The soldier pick is just making sure that the soldier used back down at the bottom. There you go. So going to leave one hoop facing that way on one facing that way. So you should be able to get a good view of both sides of the work because we should be out to see even though they so joins of my small is the soldier quite obviously melting and playing on this one. But when I teach up this one, you should still see a little bit of solder coming through on the inside. That one is going to be hard to see because it's going to be the soldier. By the way. I'm using solder paste for this because it does allow me to very easily put the soldier exactly what I wanted to be. If you wanted to use soda Palin's instead, then my advice would be to push the wife through to drop some flux over that section on. Then put a piece of easy soldier paste on. So easy, soldier Easy. So dip Alyan on the inside so that its up against next to the piece of why it's poking through and then heat the whole thing and heat for the last bit from the outside to draw the soldier through. Next, the wife through the hole as you as the soda melts. Okay, so so did Palin's would be copper flux by the soda Italian just only inside up against that piece of war where I turned the torch. Sean, I'm going to focus mainly on the Houthi rectangular piece of wire before starting to brush across the soldier joint. Changing color nicely. We go. There's a nice liquid flash, a soldier melted and you can certainly see. It's really lighter there. The flux that was in solder paste has protected that area from any organization, and you can see it's floated. Sykes is a lighter patch there as well, says the 1st 1 Done. Just remove time. Put it about by the posters to make sureties in there nicely on. Do the same with this one, heating up the larger piece of silver hoop first before focusing more So there we go, certainly more subtle on this size, the liquid flash of the smelting solder, but it can still be seen might need to go back. Rewind and watch that if you want to see it, but it did flow out on the inside as well. So those two. Now I need to go into the quench particle down the pickle pot to clean up before cleaning up, removing the excess wires from the inside 10. Pearl Hoops - filing: now that the hoop sections have cleaned up in the pickle on before I punished them. It's time to remove the little bit off wire that you can see sticking up in there. I'm going to use very oval crisis is 1/2 around needle file, 1/2 round or oval, anything that's going to fit that you shape nicely. So, no, I did the first. First. I'm just finding on the wire, not touching the inside off the hoop tool. Remember, this is the reason why you don't want too much wine sticking up, more evil sticking up, the more you've got to file to get rid of it. I don't find the trickiest thing here is holding onto the piece of silver so she doesn't move but still allowing you to see its. Hopefully, that's a better view. Now you see by the facts that there's some shine coming on the inside off the peace Rectangular Weir is that I am actually now starting to finally inside a little bit that Peter Wives become very, very short. It's really starting to Spierce. What I'm going to do now is as I go forward, like so directly to the side that it is. I go through the hoop much even twist slightly. So so I'm keeping up nice round shape instead of firing a dick in that that section I'm so mainly using links, just twisting around to the wife's. It's we're seeing around smoothing around the y shape sightly. - The reason I'm turning it around is that my neo file is tapered so far, just a far from one side. Along the time I might put it with a slope in here. I don't want to do that. So that's one dunk. I see no wire sicking up. Now I have have analyzed Teoh Bend that post over a little bit, but just using either pair, flat nose or nine on your clients, I can easily move that back into position. It's also good testers. Soldier joined, so that one's ready. Same with this one. - Daniel , come Okay, since again and again just gently pulls out back. But she found this cut section the bench paid rather useful for putting the post through and allowing me to support the wild with I was I was finding it, but those sections are now filed, so now it's time to publish them almost. I'm doing that. I'll show you how to make the ear wise 11. Pearl Hoops - earwires: I've cut to 4.5 centimeter links off. No 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge. Stunning silver round wire on it's time to use those to form ear wires for the earrings. The first stage informing the air wise. It's a former simple loop when I loop one end of each piece of wire. If you're not already familiar with how to do that, then do download the PdF of thes step by step photos toilet I put together for you because that will allow you to have a really close look on how to do them. Thank you, Hughes. Have around those supplies on going to start off by holding the wire about just the cost of served the weight down the appliance I've got so that I can't feel the wind is otherwise sticking up past no supplies. I'm going to hold the wire with my finger and some close supplies, says I want control. What's going on? If I don't down here this think that why get bent all over the place? So what that nice is here. I'm just going to twist suppliers away from them, allowing the white to be drawn, passed through my finger and thumb. Just twist it round until the cut section meets up with the long tail formed and I circular shape. Now I want to pull that circle civil without loop. So it's sitting on top of the wire and not to one site to that, going to put the tip of the pliers down in that loop again. Some holding across the long stem was close to joyous. I can make it on and in fingers, some close, where I'm working to keep everything nice and stable. Just twist back. That was so slightly and that's enough to pull the wire back on to the top. The same with this one. So what? Same distance down. Whoops. If you especially when you're learning how to do these becoming more familiar with your tools, then you might want to put a Sharpie mark where you telling the loop for the starting off the air wise to make sure that the same all the time and by the time you get used to where you put it, the mark with for with Mark rubbed off so you can just putting the wine but my finger and thumb twisting it around until the cut end meets up with stem chip supplies back in right, so and just twist back slightly. So it sits sites. So now we're just gonna get the nine on your ply. It's on just crash sites, so that one was okay, but this one I've yet to see loops spent down for bet does happen. Sometimes that's why it's very forgiving. Is Britain the non your pliers and give it a squeeze? It was nice of flat ago, So that's the first stage Next you need to do going to use the, um, I was going to use the middle section on the septum. Mendel clients sometimes have seen me use a set of set a set manual, so it's actually just looks like this section, but longer. It's got five sections on it, but you could use about a pen or anything that's the right size and it around to make your ear wise. I'm going to do just hold, like so Second, see the loop just sticking past. They after the pliers have no supplies because I'm gonna make watch a short pair of ear wise here want the focus to be on the hearing design that's dangling down, not on the ear wise. If I did want to make a longer pair, then perhaps have a loop sticking up a little bit this week further so that section is longer. I want to make them quite short sold. Like so, despite twisting the wire, hardly using my finger and thumb to push the wire around to form you shape, that's the 1st 1 done. 2nd 1 As always, you see Meiring classes before I'm going to stop to form it. Andi. Then double check that those two fronts. Sections of wire. Oh, the same thanks. That was ever so slightly longer. So I was going to pop them in and push this section, push the loop a little bit, just to use up a bit more off that Why There we go. That's a better match. Put them back on. And then I just finished bending that tail round. Now good much. Couple things left to do. Does it really matter what all do you do these in? I'm going to use for that nose pliers to pull. It's a little bit more than that. Just the same wits of supplies pulling it back slightly. I think it does give a nice to look come but this one by using the same pliers each time I know that that section is going to match. I am going to. He's a needle file to file those ends of wire nice and smooth, so they're not going to be horribly scratchy. A passing through your ISS. Use your fingers to feel the ends just to make sure that they feel smooth. Sometimes they can look smooth, but there's a little scratchy bets that your eyes haven't noticed because they are very small, just like up in espresso, Right? Very well See I need to do is to hammer the front section, reach I'm using, punishing how much to do that, just going to hammer the very front. But they're just add a little bit of extra strengths to the shape. Okay, I move. Oops, here, holder. Those want that one as well. I moved those two about in the light. We had to see that this one is catching the light. What differently has got a flat section of front, and that's putting a lot of strength into that shape. It's the same with 2nd 1 so one finished pair of ear wise. We're nearly ready to put everything together 12. Pearl Hoops - preparing the posts: it's time now to trim off the post to get them to be the right fit for my lovely six millimeter pals. I always work with a little bit more silver wires, and I really need, because I know that I need to poke it through the hole. One in case for design like this, and that's going to take up a little bit of why. Andi. I also find it easier to handle a slightly longer piece and the teeny type. He's a while, but that's the most important thing is that if I have ah longer piece of wire, I then can trim it down to exact right links for the pearls. So if I don't start off with a piece I know is to know I could accidentally end up with posts. It is too short for the pearls. The Pearl would still be able to be glued in place, even on a post that is shorter than the depth of the whole. But it wouldn't be a secure under strong as it could be, be losing out a little bit of strength. There's a couple of stages in this First thing I'm going to do is work out how deep the hole is in each pilot time. And to do that, I'm going to put the pearls on their posts. I know that too long at the moment. When we go, you can see it's still sticking up. Still see some of the posts there? This one was Well, yeah, that one's a bit longer. So I don't want to leave them like that, because if they are sticking, that's what further up thatch post there could get bent over. It could get knocked. So that's not a strong is. It could be. I want the pal to be able to sit right next to the hoop on the whole, very good. But the power is about to. Sitting right next to the hoops is nice and strong. So in order to work out how long the post me to be, I'm going to mark on the wire. How Father why has gone into the Powell as it is at the moment, so it's going to use a Sharpie Onda mark close as I can. That's why I like these ultra fine shall piece. There's a tiny pen mark. There won't be hard to see it a moment, That one just scribbling the panel. A piece of paper at the moment. There we go. Just get the ink flowing out again. So there's a little pen mark that close to the bottom of the beach powers. I can possibly make it. So what I'm gonna do, you gonna do it on this post? This one is a little bit smaller, so I'll do that one off camera and you don't get to see very much of it. But do this one so you can see it more clearly as it's a bit longer. So I can take the pile off now and you should be out to sea. I may be trash light. She got to see a full back mark on post. That's a pen mark. So put that pearl safely. When here. Little plastic late here that I'm going to push everything on just to keep nice and safe because I'm going to see now is measure how foe that section of wire is from tip down to the mark, and that is 3.5 millimeters. What I'm going to do now turn the post over so that the market on the other side. A nice clean bit off silver on and I get my head out again. It's not done. This summer's moved the ruler down to the bottom. I'm going to mark 3.5 millimeters from the bottom of the posts. 123 and 1/2 pen. Thank you. I do like my ultra 12 3.5. I do like my ultra fine sharpies, but unfortunately, the university tentage out quite quickly. This little bit of a scribble on a piece of paper is enough to get in flying. So you see there. But the mark that distance is now 3/2 millimeters. So close as I can get it to the same depths is the whole on that pile. Use the wire cusses. It's a trim, that piece of wire off. Oops. Very good. I'm gonna pop the whole back on. Not expect is still be a little bit. Yeah QC. Still a little bit too tall. So what I'm going to do if you use the far? Because I've marked as focused. I can't bottom of the pearl rather than at the very very. Just as a wipe starts oppo count, there's a little bit of room for error, but it's a room for error that makes supposed to type it too long. Not tired, but too short. Which means all I need to do is just used a needle file to go across juice the length a little bit. Let's file a little bit and put the poll back on again. Always best to do a little bit and then check rather than risk the post being too short. I want you to see Income of special by telling around that way. Still a little bit. About half a millimeter, a bit more finding is needed on the whole, So useful now that is a nice fit, so the power goes on me nicely. However, it is quite a tight fit between the hole in the Pearl Onda, The Post The post is not 0.8 millimeters. Andi. I know the whole is between not 0.8 and 0.9 millimeters in diameter. Because no 0.8 millimeter wives I had went in quite nicely, but no 0.9 was too big. But even though it hold it on your fraction bigger than the wire, they're still very, very little room for the glue that I'm going to use to make sure that the pearl is secured in place. If I were to put even a tiny bit of blue on the tip of the post there and then put the pile back in place lost the whole again. How it is put the poll back in place. As I push it in place, the glue would be pushed down to the bottom and make a bit of a mess at the bottom, and also wouldn't be where I wanted it to be inside the Pearl. So what I'm going to do is a couple of notches in the post here, Andi. The notches will provide a little bit a space for the glue to sit so that everything is held securely. Now it's a couple different ways. You could do this. You can use a triangular needle file to score some sections in here was in grooves. My preference is actually to use the wire cutters. From what I do is hold the wire cutters so that they are holding the wire. But they're not pushing, but they're not pushing toe. Actually. Cut it on. What I'm going to do his turn. Let's turn the wire around Andi. I can now feel with my fingernail. You hear clicking. It catches with the groove there. So there's room to do that a couple more times on this post Skitch one, another one there. So we go. If you were my fingernail, you should be out here. It there hasn grooves in that post stare so that when I put the blue on on when they put the pile, the glue is going to stay where I want it and hope the compel securely in place. So I'm going to do the same with this power on the post. Make the post, say, where lengths put some notches in it so that there's room for the glue and then go through with you. How trashing mix up and use the glee. 13. Pearl Hoops - setting the pearls: the post for both pearls are now prepared. You see there nice fit on there. I've left the polls on there for the moment so that I don't get them muddled up because one post, this one is a little bit shorter than that one. So I don't want to get the polls the wrong way round. It's time now to talk to you about the epoxy resin glue I'm going to use on to show you how to use it. It's a two part epoxy resin, aching at lots of different makes. Some makes more expensive than others. This is actually just a pound store. I've found this theme or expensive ones are no better and no worse than the ones in the pounds store they do. The job would seem to do. The job just is nicely. You do want to make sure, however, that you've got one with a fairly decent work Time I to say, 10 minutes or so to be able to work with it would be ideal five minutes of your quick on day one that sets quite quickly as well. This one says that it sets within 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the conditions. Drier weather, warmer weather. It has set a little bit faster than colder, damp weather, but I tend to leave the polls for a couple of hours after I put the blue one just to be on the safe side. I always work on a paper towel or scrap his paper. I've got a piece of scrap card to actually make siglo on Andi. I've also got a couple of twists of binding. Wives are left over from other projects Saudis would keep to stir up the glue with. If you break a Sobel heat that's also useful to keep the parts of that as well. Most will get an extra use out of them before I start mixing everything up. I'm going to take the polls off now because I want everything to be immediately available to get started. We'll still keep them in their separate corners of the lead next to the relevant parts of the hearings. Some glues come into separates, tubes or two separate syringes, and you have to push it a bit out of each this once you can see who's actually got two parts to cinch syringes joined together on bond. We've got here. The plunges as I push it wishes Botham out. Andi, Uh, just taking the lid off the lead, by the way, only goes on one way so it doesn't contaminate askew. Put the lid back on. I got tube coming. Which way around they are, but doesn't really matter because they're gonna push out together One shoot with the hypocrisy in 12 off the hardener. So push out a bit of both. You can see it's far more then I actually need, But if I was thrown E mix out, put out them out that I needed then basically the smaller of the amount you're mixing up, the less likely it is to be mixed up evenly. So just using one of the twists of binding. Why? Just to make sure it is make something I see around, around, across, nor directions. And then I'm going to use the second twist to apply the glue. My go take the girly from the middle because that is where it's most like to be mixed up nicely around the edge. It's not going to be mixed up swell, and you need a tiny bit probably had to see that on the other because it's clear and it's so small. It's like a dewdrop Riri. That's always it's needed. Put that over there. You don't use too much. Otherwise Thea Excess will slide down the post. Andi end up at the bottom of the post on being on unsightly little pool of glue. That would be nine. Impossible to get rid off, so one I can't. It'll do. Drop of glue profit on the post Second Pearl looks has about to say, I'm being careful not to hold the pole directly over the glue because I didn't want to fall in the glue and illustrations that point for you perfectly. There we go. So such a 2nd 1 in places Well, so those just going to leave on the trade for a couple of hours just to make sure the glue really is nicely set before I start hungering them. Or as I put the different sections of the earrings together, I'm going to wait for the excess glue to set and then fold it up in the paper, tell and pop it in the bin, By the way, I keep the double syringe inside a Ziploc bag because that way if it doesn't leak it all. Any leakages are self contained. They're not going to make a mess of anything else. Couple of safety points for you. Always mix up the glue or work with any glue in a well ventilated room. If you have skin that isn't a tour sensitive, then it be a very good idea to wear a pair of disposable gloves, just in case you get a bit of blue in your skin. But if you do, epoxy is a water soluble, so just washing it with soap for mortar would do the job. And thirdly, please make sure to using this that you wash your hands carefully before you each will drink or before you put your fingers anywhere near your face. Because even though you might be absolutely certain you've got now is a glue on your fingers, it's always best to play safe 14. Pearl Hoops - finishing the earrings: Well, the hardest parts of this hearing design are now done or the shaping filing hammering on, of course, the soldering and fitting the pearls in place. Now all I need to show you is assembling the different parts of the earrings. Getting the hoop toe. Hang all the chains below the ear wise. I've got two pairs off flat nose pliers to help. To do that, you can see the type set out both pairs of earrings laid out. The pieces need to go together. So the two chains at the top are going to a touch onto the ear while much density. That last first thing, though, I'm going to use this small jump ring so touched the other part of the the other end of the chain onto the end of each hope. So oops, I'm going to use a pair off pliers either side to join to hoist the jump cream open. Andi, it's going to but like going a going fishing here. Something right? Delicate hook on one end. What was the length of chain like? So Andi then passed that jump ring through one of the holes in that who from age of rectangular Weir and then twists the jump ring closed again as I twists that Rusi ends past each other a little bit that in spring back on more so pushing inwards a little to get a nice, slightly close jump ring. So that's the 1st 1 we'd repeat that three more times to a storefront. How come went are easier finding one end of the chain cross through the hole at one end of the rectangular. Why, I hope try and hold everything carefully that I scratch and then we go piece of wire So peace chain on the other end as well. It's same with this one open jump thing in the piece of chain last one where we go because it gets a little bit fiddly cause I say small but not difficult to do this stage so that Sandy to do is a touch. Both ends off the change in one hearing onto the ear Y, and this is why the ear. While Luke is facing in this direction quite often, I'll have it turned so that it's lying that way. But for this design, because I'm hooking on a piece changer, hang like that, go hang like that it needs to be facing forwards needs to beef latched to the front, so there's a bit like jump Frings. Just twist that open. Just pull it open. So that's right. Then go fishing for two. And why this time? One. Andi, the other one. There we go on there safely. I need to make sure they stay on their by closing that loop down tightly. So as I I twist, the wide down was so pushing inwards a bit. So there's no gap between the cut end the loop understand the rest of the year y. So that's the first 1st 1 done. It's the second again. Lift the zoo, pop one piece of chain and second. By the way, remember that if you don't have chain that suitable, if you and don't have changed at no 0.8 millimeter wire capacity link self, then you can use small jump things to do these sections in place instead. So I get picked up on behave themselves. Lovely dangly pair of earrings. There was beautiful peacock gray poles of the ends 15. Pearl Hoops - final thoughts: if you being following through the instructions because I hope you've now got another lovely pair of earrings at your collection. I do enjoy using half your pals in my designs. They are lovely. Wait at soft color to your work and also a hint of elegance. It's always great if you can adapt to design slightly to put your own mark on it on. The easiest way to do so with this design is to change the texture on the hoops, the hoops that I made a rectangular weir. I've used my favorite hammer to decorate mine, but you could leave him smooth, gives him a dim report effect with a hammer, or perhaps used once a wide variety off decorative texture stumps that are nowadays available. Whatever you decide to make using the instructions of the class, I do hope that you will share some photos with us. I always like to see what people make will be also great if you could share review on the class to help other students. Thank you for watching