Pattern Drafting: The First Step of Garment Production | Hyden Yoo | Skillshare

Pattern Drafting: The First Step of Garment Production

Hyden Yoo, Owner, Hyden Yoo

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4 Lessons (25m)
    • 1. Trailer

      1:06
    • 2. T Shirt Styles

      3:06
    • 3. Taking Measurements

      4:31
    • 4. Creating a Paper Pattern

      16:01
19 students are watching this class

About This Class

What You'll Learn

In the world of fashion, the paper pattern plays an essential and often underappreciated role in the production of garments. We'll cover the simple 4-step process for pattern drafting: 

1. Measurement. Taking the proper measurements to build a pattern

2. Detailing. Creating dIfferent collar types, specifically for T-shirts. 

3. Materials. Selecting materials for a desired fit

4. Paper Drafting. Drafting the paper pattern

We will illustrate this lesson by generating a pattern for one of the simplest articles of clothing in your closet: the t-shirt.     

Young designers find themselves paying hundreds of dollars in order to have a pattern made for their samples.  With this class on Skillshare, however, we hope to teach you the basics of pattern making in order to improve your skills as a designer and take more control over the development process.

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Whether your end goal is to start a clothing line, make several of your favorite tees for personal wear, or just learn an integral part of the garment production process, this class will give you the professional insight you need to create paper patterns.  

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Transcripts

2. T Shirt Styles: - going to your closet and pick out one of your favorite T shirts. - I went into my closet and dug out some pieces. - And then I also went through my collection as well and picked out some pieces, - so I'll run through them for you. - This T shirt is a V. - Naqi could tell. - I like being excellent, - but this is from our standard issue brand. - This one has little nubs of black jersey in there. - This guy is my Kanye West T shirt. - Um, - it's a suede T shirt, - very hard to get on because there's no stretch. - The type of fabric is really important. - If there's no stretch like something like this, - your head might not pop through the top, - which in this case is true. - This T shirt. - Um, - it's another standard issue piece. - There's like a raw edge detail here makes it look more distressed. - Or Warner kind of kind of cool, - a little detail that we did, - but it's little Henley peace long sleeve Henley. - This is one of my old beat up T shirts from several several several years back, - and it's just cool because it has the raw edge little vibe going on there, - but, - ah, - I've had it for a long time and it fits me really short, - like a crop top now, - so I rarely wear it. - This guy here is one of our T shirts from last season black T shirt with a print ideal in - here. - This, - like you're typical T shirt with the classic ribbing on the on the neck, - this T shirt, - even though it's long sleeve, - this T shirt would be quite simple to do just because if you see the neckline here, - there's no ribbing. - So it's all one material, - whereas if you were doing this one, - you would have to make a separate pattern for this ribbing piece ribbing fabric, - and you need, - um, - the regular jersey fabric. - This is probably easier to do, - but since we're customizing our own patterns and doing our favorite shirts will do this one - before we start actually drawing and cutting and making the pattern. - I just guy, - I want toe introduce the tools to you get a pencil, - a tape measure, - some scissors, - Scotch tape. - You're clear Ruler Um, - and we'll show you why Clear rulers better than a non clear ruler. - This'll guy, - your hip curve looks like a machete. - Most importantly, - your pattern paper. - Um, - as you could see, - there's little numbers and letters basically forming a grid, - and that's really important when you're putting down measurements and just to be more - precise. 3. Taking Measurements: Patty Yoon. She's an excellent pattern maker, so we work with her quite a bit. And she also has her own clothing line called Bond. And so, yeah, here's Patty Yoon and she's gonna help us draft the pattern. So we're gonna start with the body length, which you would take from this point down to the bottom. You can always lengthen it to make it more of a tunic, or you can make a shorter to do more of a crop top. So you take it from here at the highest point close to your neck, and you go straight down to the him. So this shirt is 28 and then we're going to do the chest. You usually measure it one inch below where the arm hole hits, so you just measured across and you write down that as well locally, since it's a T shirt and it's a knit fabric, the front in the back of the same. So it'll be really easy. The waste for the girls out there. You would usually measure it from here to 14 inches down. Since our waste, they're a little bit higher for guys. You would do it from 18 inches down. So that's where the Scotch tape comes in. So you just market there and then you could measure from side to side. Some teachers don't really have any waste shape. So if you want to make it smaller or just keep it straight, that's totally up to you. And then the sweep you would measure from the bottom side to the bottom side. Next is the across shoulder, which is actually going to measure how wide the shirt is across the top. You're gonna start from here, where the arm hole, the sleeve meat, and then you're gonna go across to the same point on the other side. And this actually is where you can also use your scotch tape again to make the rest of this little bit easier. So you would just market there. You can see the T shirt actually has a little bit of an angle here. If you make it straight, then you're gonna have these weird shoulders that kind of poke up from there. You're gonna take the measurement from the top of the shoulder, and that's going to give you your shoulder slope, which is usually like one W and 1/2 inches and then you're gonna take the neck measurement , which is from here to here, and you can make it a boat neck. You can make it. I don't know, like a nun neck if you want. The next part's a little bit tricky. So I definitely recommend having your scotch tape. You're gonna do the same again, and this way you can get a straight line. And if you mark the table with your scotch tape, you can see where the highest point of the shoulder is. So you gonna measure down from there? And from there to here is how low the back neck is gonna drop from the shoulder. And then you can also continue measuring from there to here, which is where the front neck is going to drop from the shoulder. This is a sleeve length from the shoulder seam to the end of the sleeve, and you're just going to take one more measurement down here, which is how big the arm opening is next. We're going to measure the arm hole flat so you'll start from the armpit here and you'll measure up to where the sleeve hits the shoulder. A couple more measurements and then we're done and ready to make a T shirt pattern. So you're gonna measure again from the highest point of the shoulder closest to your neck and for the across front and cross back, which is used to get the curve of the arm hole, you're gonna go five inches down on your tape measure. You can put another piece of Scotch tape there, and then you're gonna measure across from arm hole, tow armful, and then the last one is figuring out the arm hole curve on the back. But you're gonna flip the T shirt over, and you gonna measure down five inches and you're gonna measure from curved to curve. So those your basic measurements and then you can figure out if you want to do a giant hem or know him, or if you want to add a piece here at the neck like regular T shirts 4. Creating a Paper Pattern: Okay, So grab your list of measurements and we're going to be doing this with a Sharpie so that you guys can see. But I definitely would recommend using pencils. You can actually erase all the lines Were you will probably never really inevitably mess up the first time. So we're gonna go with the sweet first, which will has the bottom. I know it sounds strange to start with the bottom, but the T shirt we had was 21 inches. So you're gonna actually divide that by two, and you're gonna make a line across that's 21 inches, like so you make little marks here and here and then at the center point, which is 10.5. You're gonna make a line here or a little mark there. And this is where the gridded paper really comes in handy. But if you have, like, a l ruler or like some sort of writing gold thing that can guard you, you're gonna make just a big line up the front. You can make a dash line or whatever, since this is just for like, a reference for you, because you will be actually making a lot of measurements to the side of this. So now we're gonna go with, um, the body length, which was actually from the top of your shoulder to the bottomless shirt. This is also where you can actually, um, customize the laying for a lot if you like, by adding Mawr down here. But we're going to go head and measure up here. 20 hiding shirt was 28 inches. So we're gonna measure from here to be 28 since his rulers to short. We're just going to start it from here, which is the four inch mark. So you're going to market up here 24 inches. You can also continue the guideline like this. So now we're going to go and do the neck with which was from, like, where the shirt is from the side of your neck to the other side of your neck, which for Haydn, his T shirt was nine inches. So when actually center nine inches on this line, your center front line and you're gonna draw nine inches across. But just make sure that the center part is on the guideline. So you didn't make marks there, so that's your neck. So you took the angle of the shoulder measurement, which was one a quarter on Harden's shirt on. Most sure, it's going to be between one and 11 and 1.5 inches so you can actually measure down. I wouldn't have inches and then you're gonna draw a straight line across the shoulder on hand shirt was 18.5. So we're going to center that on the center line here and you're gonna make little marks. So now you can see that's the angle of your shoulder. If you forget this stub and just make it a straight line across, you can have, like weird spark shoulders. I mean, unless you're into that kind of thing. But this is just to follow your natural body shape. We're gonna do the chest, which, if you remember from our measurements, we didn't measure exactly where the chest came from. So what we're gonna do is make some guidelines along the sides the width of the chest, which waas, um, for our T shirt. It was 22 a half. So you're gonna center that on here, and you're just gonna kind of eyeball it and sort of make little marks on the side so that you know where the side where your armpits gonna hit At some point, we'll get back to that part later. So here your little guy lines. And now we're going to go into, um, the arm hole, which we said was flat, um, nine and 3/4 inches. So this part is a little tricky. You gotta swing the ruler around so that nine and 3/4 eventually hits your little lines that you made on the side. And that's where your armpits going to go. So it hits right here, So I'm gonna make another mark here. This is why I recommend doing this. And pencils, they don't have these distracting black marks all over your pattern. It'll make it easier to follow, and we'll do the same thing on this side. You're gonna swing the ruler around until your nine and 3/4 mark or whatever your arm hole measurement Waas hits the black line on the side. You're gonna make another mark there. So there's your armpit. So here this is the chest one. And now we're going to go into the waste, which, for most guys shirts is pretty straight for the girls shirts is going to be fairly curve, depending on, like how tight you like your shirts to fit. So we measured this from 18 inches down there and take it from here. The high point shoulder again. I'm gonna measure down 18 inches, which is here, and then you're going to center the waist measurement, which was 21. So that would be 10.5 here, and you're gonna make little marks in the side again. So now you see, you have a general outline of the side scene of your garments, which we're going to use our hip curve to kind of make a smooth curve all the way down against. This is the guy's shirt and they don't really wanna have any way shape. This is a really smooth line. You can actually use a straight rule on this part. So for all the girls out there who are doing this, this is where you can actually create a more fitted shirt here by bringing the waist measurement in. So also blindness in on this side again, if you just want to use a basic French curve from your local art store that should work out as well to get you a smooth curve in your pattern pieces. Now we're going to move on to the neck. So this is where you can actually get really creative, and you can make it a V neck or drop the neck down lower. But I'll follow Haydn's T shirt since we're just doing this for the first time. So the front neck drop was four. So you're actually taking it from the highest point of the shoulder, which was this line. So you're gonna measure down from here four inches and again, you're gonna want to make a smooth curve if you can. This is also why pencils. Good, Because you're gonna have to actually make a lot of little marks here and then blend the line. So next up is the across front, which is what we measured from five inches down. So you're gonna actually go back up to this high point again on your shoulder, and you're gonna measure down five inches and our measurement was 17. So we're gonna center that on this guideline that you made and you're gonna market at 17 inches across, which is here, and here. So all you need to do now is fill in the curve of the arm hole. So this is also a little bit tricky. And this is where your French, um, curve or your hip curve is really gonna come in handy. Luckily, it's NIT, and it's a T shirt, so it's not gonna, like, make or break anything. If you're curve is off by a little bit, and the easiest thing to do is just trace it folded and trace it over on the other side. But we'll go ahead and fill it it on this side as well. Just try to make it a smooth of a curve as possible, so you don't have weird like armpit nipples coming out. One shortcut you can take if, um, the across front and across back measurement are the same is to just trace this whole front body onto a new piece of pattern paper, and then you're going to actually raise the neckline for your back neck. Or however you want to customize it. So are back neck was 1.5 inches, which you would measure from the same point up here between the highest point of the neck and you're gonna measure down 1.5 inches here, and you're actually going to use the curve again to make a smooth curve. I think this and again you can fold it over to make it symmetrical on the right side of the back neck and left side of the back. Nick. But that's just one way to save time, since with T shirts, mostly time the front and back of the same If the across back is different and wider than the across front here, you can actually just get rid of the arm hole or not traced arm hole over onto the back and just do the same thing. But just make it the wider measurement here, depending on what your cross back came in and then you're done with the back pattern. So now that you have your basic body, you're gonna add this seam allowance and it's actually, um, what you're gonna so together. So for most T shirts is actually pretty small, like 1/4 of an inch. But since this is our first pattern, I'm gonna go ahead and make it 1/2 a niche. So this is where your clear ruler comes in and you're actually just gonna line up? If you see here is greeted off at half a niche and you're just gonna line up the half inch line with your pencil lines for your pattern and you're just gonna kind of run your pencil along the edge and you're making a smooth half inch, um, section over here. So this is where you're gonna be stitching. And this is the seam allowance. And for the bottom, if you want to do like a 3/4 inch hem, you just line of the 3/4 line. Just draw it across. The next pattern piece we're gonna do is a sleeve, so you can tell looking at your T shirt, it's actually pretty simple. So we're gonna start again with the hem of the sleeve. So you're kind of work, um, from their up the way you did with the body. So we'll just draw a straight line across. Take what the measurement waas for the whole hem of your sleeve and you're gonna mark off the beginning, the middle and the end, 17 and 14 and then you're gonna take the length, which is from this point down to this point, which the T shirt that we measured was nine inches. Soon a line it up with nine here, and you're gonna draw a straight line up. So you ever sent a line and you're gonna actually take your bicep measurement, which is from your armpit straight this way. So I'm gonna take hardens measurement of 16 and we're gonna center it on the line that he drew from top to bottom, and you do line at the beginning, the end, and make sure it lines up in the middle here and again. This is kind of like the way we did the chest with, um, the body pattern. So you just kind of going to kind of make a few, um, going to make a few lines up and down the sides. The next measurement we're gonna do is the sleeve insane, which is actually the under seem of the sleeve. So you're going to take that measurement which four hardens. It was three. And you're gonna again swing the ruler around the way you did with the body until it hits three. At this point and with little marks that you made on the side from this point, and that's right. Word hits. So you just gonna draw smooth line from there to there? So now we have almost everything. We just need to draw the curve in. So again, you're going to take your hip curve or your son's curve. And since it's nit, um, like the jersey fabric and it has a lot of stretch, you just kind of make a general curve as long as this smooth from this point. So now on to double check your sleeve, the measurement you took, you can take that flimsy ruler again and you're gonna measure along not the seam allowance , but the actual curve line of the pattern. Because if you don't do this, you'll enabled weird puckers and like bubbles, where you so that's leaving. So you're gonna take this and again, you can do this with your tape measure. You take this times to, and if it matches up the curve of your sleeve, then you're good to go till next time Last pattern piece, depending on if you want to do a rib on your neck line, um, is just gonna be a rectangle. Take a measuring tape here and you'll make sure you start from one scene so you can keep track of how much O. R. Where you started and you'll know exactly how much to cut. So you gonna measure all around the neckline, so we have 23 a half inches in, depending on how big your neckline is. That number's going vary for this T shirt. It's going to be 23 inches and see here, and because it's on the fold, you're gonna take this measurement and you're gonna double it. So this one here is 3/4 of an inch suburban and do an inch and 1/2 and there it is, your neck rib boom.